Europe travel report 2017. Trip Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, Poland, Germany, France and Spain (Catalonia).
Foreword
Every year in September I go on vacation for a month. Formerly machines was not, and had to travel with someone for the company. This year, a Volvo V70 (2005) was purchased, and an interesting task turned up for me - to take a friend from Russia to sunny Andalucia (Andalucia, Spain). Another friend had a vacation, he wanted to go somewhere to the sea, as summer passed by in our area. So I decided to take a chance and test the car in action.
Preparing for a road trip in Europe
To build a route and navigate in general, we used several services:
- website for getting general information, calculating distance and fuel.
- Via Michelin and its Android app - the best option for trips around Europe.
- Google maps.
- Waze.
As a result, Waze was used more often - it was always turned on on the navigator's smartphone to track high-speed radars and police that they met on the way. We also used Google maps to search for passing gas stations, parking lots, eateries and reviews for them.
Via Michelin helped with planning expenses. On the site, we entered the vehicle data (model, engine type, fuel, mileage) and chose one of the suggested routes from Tallinn to Malaga. According to the calculation of the service, we were waiting for 47 hours behind the wheel and a route of more than 4000 km (). The expected costs for toll roads and diesel fuel amounted to 527 euros (about 36,000 rubles). Option "go to free road"were not considered, because we wanted to reach the end point as quickly as possible, which would ultimately save time (after all, a vacation) and money on accommodation and food.
Since we didn’t have time to carefully prepare for the trip (spontaneity is our credo), we created a general chat in one of the messengers, in which we sent a detailed list of what needs to be done and taken on a trip. There were the necessary maps, a canister of water and much more.
As a result, useful information (necessary phone numbers, addresses) and even advice from comrades were thrown into the channel. Since the Internet connection is not always stable on the road, this channel has become an essential support on the road. It is convenient when all interested parties have simultaneous access to information.
Tallinn - Suwalki
First days.
On the morning of the first day, we had free time until lunch, as one of the fellow travelers was finishing his last working day before leaving. The sun was shining, it was warm and we went for a walk around the old city.
Of course, we could not help climbing to the Kohtuotsa observation deck, which offers an excellent view of the old town and the spire of St. Olaf's church. Once it was the tallest building in the world, but now it is only in the center of Tallinn.
Streets of the old town
We had time to walk around the old city, when our friend joined us and we hit the road.
We usually refuel at Olerex or Statoil stations, which this year became known as Circle K. Along the way, we filled up full tank on Olerex, it cost about 80 euros (about 5,500 rubles). average price for diesel in Estonia is 1.16 euro/l.
Before Riga, we moved down to the bay in the Salacgrīva area to warm up and breathe in the sea air - there is a long road ahead to the warm Mediterranean waves.
Roads in Latvia are not much different from Estonian ones, but in places, for example, in front of Riga, many drivers moved almost along the side of the road.
Roads and roadsides of Latvia
The first night was waiting for us in Poland near the border, in a small hotel, which we booked by phone. Hotel Jasionowy Gai was recommended to us by friends.
We planned to spend the night there and leave without waiting for breakfast, so in Lithuania we stopped at the Rimi supermarket for food. We had a 12V camping refrigerator in the car, but Rimi has a very good ready-to-eat department.
At night we reached the town of Suwalki. At the hotel we were met by the owner Andrzej and his three charming dogs. The room for 35 euros was very cozy: a separate entrance from the yard, a heater, a kitchen, 4 beds, a shower room. In the shower room, individual shower sets were prepared for guests.
When we woke up in the morning, we found that the kitchen would have been suitable for a longer stay. There was a kettle, refrigerator, stove, cutlery, pots, pan, cups, tea and coffee sets, salt, sugar and even a toaster. This place left a good impression.
Rested and satisfied, we set off on our journey.
We went to the post office in the city and bought a local SIM card for mobile Internet (no documents required). We chose a starter package from one of the local operators for 5 zlotys (that's about 80 rubles) - 5 GB of mobile internet.
Results of the day in money:
- Fuel: 80 euros (5500 rubles) for 70 liters.
Suwalki - Berlin - Kassel
Second days.
Polish roads
Previously, about 5 years ago, the road from Lithuania to Warsaw was terrible. This is not the first year repair work and there is hope for the best. Today this section is a road with one lane on each side without shoulders.
Starting from Warsaw, the roads are spacious and good coverage, you can go safely, but even on good roads accidents happen.
After Warsaw, through Lodz and Poznań, we were on our way to Berlin - according to past experience, there were excellent roads in this direction.
Here it would be necessary to press the gas, but the trouble is, something happened to the car - a vibration appeared, which at certain speeds intensified. It was scary to drive fast, it was even scarier to drive slowly, because there was a strong rumble and the whole car was almost shaking. There were thoughts to call on the similarity collapse, but car services, as evil as we did, did not meet us along the way.
It was already getting dark, we did not have time to find a working service, but we believed in the best, because "we just checked everything with our mechanics yesterday." Well, we called the mechanics and described the problem. They said that everything should be all right. Well, whatever it was, let's go to Berlin!
Googled options for accommodation in Berlin (thanks to the Polish sim card) and found a place in the city center, which was called ("Easy Lodges") or Scube Park Columbia ("Scube Park Columbia"). It was almost the only place for 54 euros available for booking that night, and even in the city center.
Before the border with Germany, we wanted to refuel, but we were very surprised by the price tag for diesel - the cost of fuel was almost 1.30 euros / liter. We googled diesel prices in Europe and realized that the last Polish gas station before the border simply brazenly used its position, since the average bill for a liter of diesel in Poland is 1 euro. We should have had enough fuel to get to Berlin, so we drove through the last Polish gas station.
By the way, about the cents. In Poland, we were often told prices in kroons or zlotys. One of us had a Russian Sberbank card, he paid with it, but chose to pay in dollars, because he had a MasterCard card. Later we found out that it would be more profitable to choose a payment in kroons.
When we got to Easy Lodges, we were in for a nasty surprise. We found ourselves in an open area, similar to a park with wooden boxes in the form of cubes, in which all the walls are blank, except for the glass facade with a door. Through the glass we could see the decoration of some rooms. Basically, these are 2 or 3 beds in two tiers, a table, a curtain and a floor lamp. And that's it. Since we arrived at dark time days, the photographs could not convey the whole local flavor - the territory was not illuminated. But photos of these lodges can be found on the Internet, we later saw them when we left our dissatisfied review. Toilet, shower? All this was somewhere at the entrance to the territory, not far from the reception, where none of the employees turned out, but there was a note with the wishes of a pleasant stay and a list of the names of those who were expected during the "late check-in". Our last name was also there, but opposite the number of the loggia was indicated.
Late check-in from Easy Lodges
Found your name and went to look for the number. It should be noted that without a lantern we would not have been able to find him. When we found it, we were even more upset - there were no keys, the room was closed, it seems that they apparently forgot about us. For the sake of curiosity, we looked into the rooms from the list - everyone was waiting for the keys on the bed or table. Nobody else answered the phone, and the reception was crowded with newly arrived puzzled tourists. What to do? A few minutes to think and decide: we go further and look for an overnight stay.
Hotels in Berlin were ready to open their doors for a minimum of 115 euros per night, not counting the cost of parking. Parking in the parking lot of one of the hotel we were offered for 25 euros per night. After circling around the city a little more, we stopped at a gas station, filled up the tank and drove forward along our route to Spain.
Results of the day in money:
- Fuel: $77 (4110 rubles) for 56 liters.
- Toll roads (Polish): 47.90 PLN (762 rubles).
Berlin - Lyon - Lloret de Mar
Third day.
Germany, somewhere beyond Kassel
After refueling in Berlin in Germany, we made a couple more stops at gas stations near Kassel (Kassel, Hessen) and Baden-Württemberg (Baden-Württemberg). It rained all the way, the car rumbled, it discouraged the desire to stop somewhere else. But even in cloudy weather, the forests and mountains beckoned us, which means that we will definitely return to take a walk in the Wilhelmshöhe park and the forests of the Black Forest (Schwarzwald).
In general, impressions about the road in Germany are positive. night road was tiring: work was underway on the highway, the entire right lane was occupied by endless rows of trucks that were traveling at a speed of no more than 80 km / h. It rained all night, so we drove almost to the touch at the speed of trucks.
Around 11 am we stopped to have a bite to eat and stretch. We ended up at a Tank&Rast gas station in the Freiburg area.
German gas stations differ from the rest in that it is customary to pay 70 cents for going to the toilet. And it doesn't matter if you filled the fuel or not. Everyone is required to pay, except for children and the disabled.
Toilets for 70 cents
There are turnstiles at the entrance to the toilet. You can pay in cash or by card. Free access is provided for children and disabled people. Those who pay the pass are given a voucher for a discount of 50 cents, which can be used right there at the gas station.
By the way, one bratwurst (fried sausage) with potatoes costs 6.99 euros (at the current exchange rate, a little less than 500 rubles). Price diesel fuel: 1.229 euro/l.
10 euro magnets
Free toilets can be found in special rest areas, which are quite common along the road. You can stop and take a nap on them.
Road to France
Crossing borders between countries in the European Union goes unnoticed: you drive along the highway at 120 km/h (or faster), and only the signs make it clear that you are no longer in Germany, but in France. We drove almost non-stop through Burgundy and Rhone, closer to the south. The landscape has noticeably changed, dense forests have replaced fields and castles, endless rains have given way to the sun.
French fields
After the rain
Highway A9
Closer to the south
France near Nimes
In the Aire d "ambrussum area, we stopped to refuel and refresh ourselves. BP gas stations turned out to be the most "gluttonous", the cost of diesel fuel was 1,389 euros / l.
Chocolates for 1.35 euros each
By 2 am we reached Lloret de Mar. They got there, as the car urgently required a visit to the service.
We have already been to Lloret de Mar, so we booked in advance the Royal Inn hotel, familiar from our first visits to Spain. Its employees are very friendly and speak Russian. The hotel is located in the city center, next to the beach. Adequate price of 50 euros per night in a clean and comfortable room, consisting of two isolated rooms What else do you need to be happy? Previously, however, we could make a pre-booking by phone, this year we were strongly asked to make a reservation via the Internet.
So, we parked in the city parking near the Hollywood disco and went to the hotel.
Results of the day in money:
- Fuel: 177 euros (12,000 rubles) for 140 liters.
- Toll roads (563 km in France): 62 euros (4,215 rubles).
Fourth day.
In the morning at the reception, the first thing we learned was the address and contacts of the car service. He was within walking distance of the parking lot at the intersection of Vila de Blanes and Avenida del Rieral. The local mechanic made it clear that he would have to wait at least a week. We drooped - no one expected such a turn of events.
Not knowing what to do, we went to the local supermarket chain - Mercadona - to buy local freshly squeezed orange juice. In each "Mercadona" in the fruit department there is a machine for making juice. You take from the device plastic bottle, put it on a stand, next to which there is a lever, hold it in the downward position, and the machine squeezes out the juice. There is something fascinating about this process.
Having recharged with vitamin C, we went to the Garnier coffee shop, where we took coffee with a sandwich and began to think over a plan to save us and Volvo. Suddenly they remembered that there was another car service next to the parking lot. We headed towards him.
So, Saturday, half an hour before siesta, we are in the Euromaster service.
Euromaster Service
The car was quickly inspected and reassured that the replacement of the CV joint would take an hour. The only difficulty is to find by the end of the day the same CV joint that suits us.
The autopsy showed
Oil splattered from a burst boot
We agreed to meet with the masters after the siesta.
After the siesta, the situation did not change - no one works during the siesta, so there was catastrophically little time left until the end of the working day. We had to find this CV joint, otherwise we risked being stuck in Lloret until Monday or Tuesday. We stayed in the service and actively began to take part in the search: we asked the guys from the workshop to show us a picture of the part and, using the VIN number, give an exact description of what needs to be found.
In the service, fortunately, we found a Russian-speaking mechanic who helped with the explanation. We began to call all the acquaintances who are associated with car services and lived in Catalonia. The good news finally came, the CV joint was found, it will be brought to the workshop in the morning, so we can leave Lloret before lunch. For you to understand, Sunday for the Spaniards is sacred! Very rarely someone works on Sunday, as a rule, the locals go somewhere in nature or just relax with their family at home. So we are incredibly lucky.
But with the hotel no luck. "Royal In" we did not have time to book, we had to look for an alternative. With the help of Booking.com, based on reviews and a budget of 50-60 euros per night, we found the apart-hotel AR Niu Dor. At the reception we were met by two girls: one Spanish, the other Russian (Russian speakers in Loreta came across to us in every institution). They asked for a deposit of 120 euros and 2 euros per person for a set of linen and towels. They gave us a paper to sign, in which we were obliged not to break the furniture, not to leave cigarette butts (although we asked for a non-smoking room), not to scream after 23:00, take out the garbage, and so on.
In response to such hospitality, we asked to check our room, for which we were asked to leave a deposit and sign a paper. An employee of the hotel, smiling awkwardly, showed us a more than modest room, the furniture in which was a little loose. How the sofa was laid out, she did not know.
We study the sofa
In general, we are not picky, and we just wanted to spend the night, but the atmosphere of the hotel was depressing. Be that as it may, until the next morning we were left to our own devices. Therefore, we left our shelter and went to admire the views of Lloret.
They play ball in the streets
Center of Lloret
Plants paint the city walls
Streets of Lloret
Balconies of Catalonia
The sea felt like 20 degrees, no more. We got hungry and went to a pizzeria.
Here they cook Italian pizza in the oven
We returned from a walk at 22 o'clock to sleep. But the hotel turned out to be a refuge for young people who were in a hurry to get the most out of alcohol. Under our windows in neighboring rooms above and below, music played all night. By 8 am, this noise was replaced by the rumble of mopeds and cars under the windows. Before 10 am we had to leave the room.
This place did not live up to the Booking ratings. At parting, our comments and feedback received a response from a Spanish employee: "This is not a hotel, but an apartment." Well, let's not get hung up, let's move on.
Hola, Andalusia!
Fifth day.
We went to Mercadona for juice and sat in a cafe next to the service waiting for the car. Already at 11:30 we thanked the local mechanics for the repair and continued south - the last 800 km separated us from the goal, and the machine pleased us with the absence of vibration and rattle.
Before Valencia, we turned to the beach near Mercadona, traditionally took an orange juice, which was noticeably sweeter than in Lloret. We had a bite to eat on the shore, swam in the sea, the water was very pleasant, 24 degrees, the beaches are clean and there are few people.
Refreshed, we raced along the Spanish motorway to the finish line. The roads in Spain are excellent (I mean high-speed highways), you have to pay for the lack of traffic lights, several lanes and an average speed of 180-220 km / h.
Road to the south
There was a last toll section of the road before Malaga, but we got a promotion, and after midnight it was free - a wonderful bonus for a late arrival.
Results of the day in money:
- Fuel: 120 euros (8,150 rubles) per 100 liters.
- Toll roads: 41 euros (2800 rubles).
Conclusion
The road to the south, except for a long stop in Lloret, would take us 4 days. For an autumn outing, such a marathon is justified - the weather is more pleasant in the south, and we will definitely visit central Europe in the spring, and this will be a more planned trip.
This time, the road, taking into account the repair of the car, cost us about 1000 euros. After talking with local mechanics, we learned that Volvo or Honda are not very popular in Spain, so parts for them are difficult to find, and they can cost a tidy sum (we had to pay 415 euros for a CV joint replacement).
If we forget about the losses, then we definitely did not regret that we came to the Costa del Sol. In September, the sun warms pleasantly, without burning, the water is pleasant, there are few people. You can spend time "seals" on the beach or explore the surroundings. If you get out on such a long road trip, plan it for more long term, at least for a month.
View of the port of Malaga from the Alcazaba
Mountains
Fuengirola Castle from the beach and barbecue boats
On weekends, locals come to the beach and cook grilled sausages, fish, meat, drink beer, sangria, have fun, chat, listen to music, some sing and dance - in general, they relax.
Local beaches are free and equipped with showers and toilets. For money, only trestle beds and umbrellas - around 6-7 euros for the whole day.
Mijas
Marbella, Salvador Dali alley
Seville
Tarifa
AND
Spain streets
Time to say good-bye...
See you soon!
We have all tried ourselves standard set services from travel agencies on the "All inclusive" system, but today ideas about rest are changing. Traveling by car gives you the freedom to choose the route yourself and the opportunity to get a lot of vivid impressions. About what you need to know and be able to go on vacation by car, says Inga Khrushcheva, a former commentator on the Olympic Games, and now the organizer of road trips to the most remote corners of Europe, where there are almost no tourists.
About safety, or “A first-aid kit is not for the traffic police”
Going on a road trip, you should be clearly aware that the condition of the car is your safety. It is clear that on the killed smoky oil smoke Volkswagen Passat 1997 release you will be deployed at the border. But today the park has been updated, and I almost never see very old cars on the roads. Of course, you need to go through MOT, take into account weak spots his car - every driver knows them. After all, any trip to Europe is no less than five thousand kilometers. It is necessary to consult with specialists, change the oil, pump brake system, especially if you have a path to the mountains. For road trips, many people rent a car in their own country, since this is, in any case, winding up the mileage. But our compatriots mostly drive their cars.
What else to take with you on the road? first aid kit, reflective vest, rope. Must have a fire extinguisher child seat if there is a child in the car. Already in Poland road police may be interested in the presence of all this. Do not install radar detectors and studded tires (if it is winter). And, of course, the first-aid kit should not be for technical inspection, like most of our drivers, but really in the expectation that anything can happen on the road. Here, as they say, “better safe than sorry”, especially if you are traveling with children. Of course, medical insurance and a green card for a car must be issued.
It is important to roughly determine your path based on own forces and opportunities, from how many drivers are in the car. If there are two, you can drive about a thousand kilometers a day without straining. 500-700 kilometers is the maximum that even experienced driver. Moreover, it is unlikely that on this day the forces will remain for some more walks. There are dashing people who drive a thousand and even more kilometers without rest. But I think it's wrong. Road trip should be a pleasure, not a pain.
About traveling in a cortege, or when navigators are evil
Some novice car travelers find it better to travel in a motorcade of several cars. Like, than more people the safer. This is mistake. I understand that the motorcade is fun and cool, but after all, everyone goes along the highway with different speed Everyone has a different driving style. I accompanied motorcades of tourists, I myself went with friends to long distance"caravan" of several cars. Walking in a cortege the way you would like is never possible.
Surely someone will get lost, someone’s child will want to go to the toilet, some other unforeseen circumstances will happen. And after a while it starts to get annoying. Plus, navigators sometimes build a route to the same point in different ways.
If you still decide to go on a trip with several cars, take care of the means of communication between drivers. Experience shows that it is best to use a walkie-talkie with a range of several kilometers, like truckers. It is too expensive to communicate abroad by phone. And the best option is to go by several cars to some predetermined point, where everyone arrives at the appointed time. But people go there themselves, in accordance with their individual rhythm and driving style.
To be honest, navigators are evil. You get used to the navigator, and if something happens to it on the road, you just don’t know where to go. I am an old formation driver. I started driving when there were no navigators yet, and I can get anywhere using maps and road signs. Certainly, navigation system will offer detour options and competently build a route, but sometimes traffic situation requires you to make a decision, and when you rely entirely on the navigator, you turn off thinking.
About "hope for a Russian chance" and lovers of romance
Sometimes I discourage people from going: I just know how it can turn out. When setting off on a road trip with a baby of a few months, you need to consider that many more stops will be required than you originally thought. Of course, you can not plan a road trip if the driving experience is less than two years. With those who want to go to distant lands, having barely passed on the rights, I refuse to work. Only with experience comes the ability to read the road, and not just turn the steering wheel. I myself, having received the rights, the very next day went on a trip. But there were smart people with me, and when the serpentine began, an experienced driver got behind the wheel.
Our people love romance. We'll just go wherever our eyes look in the summer, and spend the night somewhere "in the direction of travel." Unfortunately, this doesn't always work out. For example, the Austrians have been resting since Thursday, and if you want to spend the night somewhere on a lake in Austria, you will have to spend three to four hours looking for a hotel, and it is very likely that you will have to sleep in a car. In summer, the whole of Europe travels by car. So why waste gasoline and nerve cells when you can book accommodation for the night in advance, having calculated your route. I can say from personal experience: if at the beginning of the week you manage to spend the night in the hotel you like without problems, by the end of the week you will inevitably encounter difficulties anyway.
In 2007, passing through Austria, we did not know where to pay for the roads. We thought that there would be an Italian version - turnstiles, where payment would take place. It turned out that I had to buy a vignette. The police caught us and asked where the payment for the road. The fine was huge, but we were forgiven and we just bought a vignette. In those days, it was not yet possible to receive any information so freely as it is now. But even today, our people often try to “slip at random”.
I am not a supporter of our national recklessness. A vignette costs eight and a half euros, you pay for the roads - and you are a law-abiding citizen. There is simply no other approach. And if you are a guest, follow the laws of the country where you are. Eat different systems road payment. In the Czech Republic and Austria - vignettes, in Poland - turnstiles, and so on. With us, this is such a special dashing: to slip through Austria, because there are allegedly almost no police on the roads. But there is video recording, and if you miraculously didn’t get caught once, it doesn’t mean that you won’t get caught the second time. Plus, the traffic police has the ability to send information to the embassy that you have committed an offense in the EU. Do you need it? If you go, follow the law.
About freedom and responsibility
When setting out on the road, some people just want to get to the point (for example, to the Mediterranean Sea), others want to go around non-tourist corners. For example, to visit Sardinia and Sicily, to get acquainted with the life of the country. On such a trip in two weeks, you can even learn the language! car trip- this is freedom.
Yes, you build your route, book hotel rooms or apartments along the way in advance. But when you arrive at a certain point, you have a whole region that you can explore. You can turn right or left, stop at a place you like, look and make sure that it is beautiful and amazing, or, conversely, be disappointed.
When my friend and I go to the mountains in Germany, we watch the weather at breakfast. Let's say that where we were going to go, it's raining today. So we'll go to France, it's sunny there now. And if it was a planned excursion with a tour operator, we would walk under an umbrella in the crowd all day strangers… Autotravel allows you to see places where it is unprofitable for tour operators to carry people, and non-knurled destinations are the most interesting. For example, best view to Florence opens from the hills of the town of Fiesole, where tourists usually do not get.
Traveling by car is much cheaper than by plane. All travel expenses, as a rule, are divided into three or four, plus the opportunity to rent accommodation not in a hotel, but in apartments. Of course, you need to have some money with you for unforeseen expenses. But if the car is ok, then serious damage will not be.
Unfortunately, usually our people do not know languages other than their native language, and not everyone remembers even English at the level of the school curriculum. But that's not a problem either. Well, you blew a wheel. Any man will put a spare tire without any problems. If there are only women in the car, you can ask the locals for help. There is a driver's mutual assistance, and in Europe, just like in our country, any driver will stop and help. Ask him how to get to the tire shop. They will explain to you on the fingers, and often they will even take you and show you.
A classic tour assumes that everything happens according to a predetermined plan. It is believed that most love "on schedule." But, as it turned out, this is not so. Yes, the guide will not lead you by the hand. You take responsibility. But - on yourself, you are of sound mind and will not accelerate and crash into a pole. And who is at the helm of the plane, you do not know. Suffice it to recall the last plane crash, when the psycho pilot decided to crash into a mountain ...
Domestic accident statistics cannot be compared with European ones. I often travel by car and in Europe I have practically never seen an accident, and not a day passes on our ring road that something does not happen. There is a different driving culture, there is respect for the participants traffic. In Germany, for example, if you keep a distance of less than 20 meters on the autobahn, you can pay a large fine. By the way, if earlier there were no German autobahns speed limits, then today there is a limit of 130 km / h. Once I had speeding, even the police were chasing me. I didn't run away from them, I just didn't notice them right away. Well, then I slowed down, they overtook me, we drove off the autobahn and I paid a fine.
A classic psychological obstacle that prevents you from deciding on a road trip for the first time is fear for your health. I will say right away: medical care everywhere in Europe is on top. When my little daughter got sick on a trip, we went to some rural dispensary, and there I first learned what real medicine is. Now I'm scared that something will happen to my health here, and not on the trip.
There was a case: in Sardinia, friends from St. Petersburg rolled over in a car. They called me, I was nearby and immediately came to help, acted as an interpreter. The Italian was wrong: he drove out of the garage in reverse on a one-way street right in front of their car. The victims were immediately taken to the hospital, they did a full medical examination and provided the necessary assistance. In the event of an accident in Italy health care It turns out free of charge, and in the volume that you will not get from us. France has its own nuances: there, if you become participant in an accident, but there are no victims, the police do not leave for such cases, there is simply an exchange of insurance. All this is desirable to know in advance, going to a particular country.
Traveling by car is always an adventure. Life is short, and you want to look beyond the horizon. And there is nothing wrong with traveling around Europe. I'll tell you personal experience: there is nothing scarier than any of our roundabouts big city. Autotravel is hand made travel, breaking the pattern. And the unique impressions of such a vacation cannot be compared with what we get from package tours to popular destinations.
Andrey Chepelev,
site editor
Let me make some remarks. I do not drive tourists, but I have some experience of traveling around Europe. Firstly, navigators are good, and what a good thing! .. You can not use them, preferring signs and maps, only “in the old fashioned way”. About how many men over 40 stubbornly drive cars with manual transmission, because the automatic transmission "breaks down and, in general, this is for girls."
The navigator cannot “break down”: there are usually several smartphones per company, and even if the navigation program somehow magically crashes, you can change the gadget, plus there is always free Google Maps and such a useful thing as charging from the cigarette lighter. Doesn't happen everywhere mobile connection- this is true, although in Europe the coverage is confidently striving for 100%.
You can have a map with you in the most extreme case, but I somehow traveled all over Poland with only one atlas - it was a natural hell, because the plans of the small towns through which the path ran were not and could not be in the atlas. And now we drive into such a Polish semi-village, we see a fork, Roundabout Circulation or an intersection. Where to go? No signs, nothing... The Poles do not understand English, they do not speak Russian either (the similarity of languages is not perceived at all, not a word of what they say is clear). Each mini-city was an orienteering stage. Now without a navigator - nowhere at all.
Secondly, Germany still has unlimited autobahns, although most do have limits of 100, 120 or 130 km / h. Thirdly, in France, the police still go to an accident without victims, just to fix the accident. True, there are no interrogators there, if the situation is controversial, it is decided by insurers, and naturally “from the bulldozer” or simply in favor of the local resident. But you can’t not call the police if the car is rental. Without fixing an accident, they will generally remove the entire deposit from your credit card without any alternative - you are tormented to prove that you are not to blame. Everything is easier in your own car, you can drive away “amicably”, although I would still call the police so that they don’t “tap” on you. Europeans, especially southern and eastern ones, are far from the image of crystal-clearly honest "good elves", and they love various kinds of scammers no less than our compatriots.
At the time of making a decision on a grandiose tour, we had little experience of traveling around Russian cities. We started from Suzdal, then expanded our geography, reached Rostov the Great, Uglich, Yaroslavl. Petersburg was our pride and pinnacle (with Veliky Novgorod to boot). Probably, it would have gone on like this, we talked about Pskov and the Baltic states, but then chance intervened ...
In general, I somehow sat on the Internet, enthusiastically read various reports about traveling to Europe by car, and came across one very interesting one. The guys, the newlyweds, went on their own to Italy, and very vividly described everything, attaching pictures of incredible beauty. Here they are, and decided everything! I showed them to my husband and the trap snapped shut! The very first phrase was "So let's go!" True, Italy had to be dismissed immediately, it is for already advanced travelers. And we, like teapots, ventured only to the very edge of Europe - Poland, the Czech Republic and Austria. With a one-day trip to Germany (Dresden).
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From the moment of the first phrase to the day of departure, a long 10 months passed, during which I carefully collected information, reading tons of reviews on different resources. Vadik read the most interesting ones, and we had a wonderful time discussing, laughing, and imagining our future voyage.
And for 10 more months I remembered school English, taking Vadik as a classmate. He resisted, of course, but as they say - where can you go from a submarine? :)
Finally, in May, for the first time, we independently prepared and submitted documents to the Czech visa center. And without problems received visas on hands. Hooray! From that moment on, I didn’t think about anything anymore, I didn’t sleep well and I wanted one thing - to go immediately!
Route travel around Europe by car by day
Our tour looked like this:
June 19 - Moscow-Brest 1067 km, overnight in Brest.
June 20 - Border crossing at Domachevo, 415 km to Krakow, overnight in Krakow.
June 21 - Krakow - Prague 536 km.
June 22 - Prague.
June 23 – Departure to Karlovy Vary 126 km.
June 24 - Prague.
June 25 - Departure to Germany, Dresden 148 km.
June 26 - Prague.
June 27 - Moving Prague - Chesky Krumlov 175 km.
June 28 - Chesky Krumlov.
June 29 - Departure to Salzburg, passing by 3 Austrian lakes, returning to Krumlov, about 400 km per day.
June 30 - Moving Chesky Krumlov - Vienna 208 km.
July 1 - Vienna
July 2 - Vienna - Krakow 468 km, overnight in Krakow.
July 3 - Krakow - Slovatyche 415 km, border crossing at Domachevo. Overnight in Brest.
July 4 - Brest - Moscow 1067 km.
Map. Cities where they lived and visited:
Hotels
Hotels were booked through Booking (except Belarusian). Advise not to advise our hotels - it's hard to say. Everyone has their own preferences and requirements for housing. But I will write the names and opinion in a nutshell.
IN Brest the choice is not great, so we settled on what seemed the most acceptable. Hotel "Energia", 2-room Twin 3.450r. Expensive, but overall we liked it. Own large guarded parking lot, walking distance to the local Arbat, where there are many cafes and places to relax.
IN Krakow spent the night in Kubik-Studio apartments. This is a private apartment on the ground floor of an old house with high ceilings. So high that the bed is a bunk bed, you have to climb the stairs on it, and then make sure not to fill the bumps, knocking your head against the ceiling. Price per night 3.347 р. Very close to the center, parking near the house. Normal in general, but without enthusiasm.
But Happy Prague Apartments in Prague we were pleased. House of the XIV century, but inside everything is comfortable. The location is great - 5 minutes to the Charles Bridge. The owner is sociable, speaks a little Russian, pours compliments (for nothing that he is Italian). The car was parked in the patio, paid for 6 nights 31.199 rubles.
Hotel Garni Villa Beatika in Cesky Krumlov pleasantly surprised. This is a 3-storey small villa, where each room is personalized and decorated in the style of its owner - a world star. We got No. 9 John Lennon, and Freddie Mercury turned out to be our neighbor. But what impressed me the most was the view from the balcony. He's just incredible! In general, we were very lucky, and when we left, they said that their hotel deserves a solid 10. Paid for 3 nights 10.746 rubles.
Well, and the hotel apogee - the hotel Am Parkring in Vienna. Vadik chose it, setting himself the task of finding something special, and he succeeded! The hotel is the only one with a view of St. Stefan, and when you stand on the balcony, it takes your breath away from the panorama of the city, it is literally at your feet! And since beauty is rarely cheap, we had to fork out for a suite, and pay 27.617 rubles for 2 nights. But to be honest, it was worth it!
Roads
They are everywhere from good to very good, bad did not meet. But speed mode better to comply, and we tried our best. So far, no notifications have come (pah, pah, pah). Traveling in Poland is the most boring. Settlements they go one after another, and while you get out onto the highway, you exhaust a small tangle of nerves ... During the entire trip, no one stopped us, we were not met with ambushes, even in Belarus ...
Toll roads there are in Poland, they are arranged like ours - you drive up from the barrier, pay, go further. And in the Czech Republic and Austria, you need to buy a vignette, preferably no later than the first refueling after crossing the border. They come in a different number of days, and are glued to different corners of the windshield.
A lot of copies on the Internet are broken about what is needed international law or not. We, after deliberation, came to the conclusion that it would be better to have them. The fact is that if you drive according to the rules and have no problems, national rights are enough. But if, God forbid, there is a traffic nuisance, international driving license will be needed without fail. We must bear this in mind!
Enjoyed Sygic navigator. He worked without failures, brought to exactly the specified place, so we had no reason to scold him for his stupidity. For hiking routes, we always took a tablet with Maps.me maps with us. Before the trip, we downloaded maps of the necessary countries and wandered around the cities without fear. True, due to their own fault, they went to the wrong place several times, but quickly returned ...
Pay for purchases with cards and cash. In Moscow, they changed a little of each of the currencies ahead of time, and did not regret it. When you are still poorly oriented in the city, it is possible to pay for parking without delay, buy water, pay for a toilet, etc.
Well, now the trip itself.
Travel program in Europe by car by day
We left Moscow at 7 am, and cheerfully, on the rise, drove 1067 kilometers in 12 hours. On the way, we rested and had a snack at gas stations. Accordingly, at 7 pm were in Brest, and managed to have dinner and see their main street.
In the morning, already ready for battle, they rushed to the border, Domachevo(this is 40 kilometers from Brest). We passed both Belarusians and Poles in 1.5 hours, which is considered very good. And the happy traveled around the European Union! Even the slow movement did not irritate me at first; one could look at the life of Polish towns in detail. Then the track began, and we rushed to Krakow. The journey took 7 hours.
Krakow we really liked it, after all, the former capital! The main attractions are the Market Square, St. Mary's Church, Matejka Square, the Barbican, the Florian's Tower, the Town Hall Tower (where you can climb) and, of course, the Wawel Castle. Inside there is the Cathedral, monuments to Kosciuszko and Pope John - Paul II.
View of St. Mary's Church
In St. Mary's Church, we caught the wedding.
florian tower
The next morning - transfer to Prague. There were more kilometers to go, but because there were no villages anymore, we drove in 6.5 hours. And then they began to explore the city. He is certainly unique! The main attractions are the Old Town Square, Wenceslas Square, Charles Bridge, Prague Castle, Loretta's Temple, Hradcany, etc.
Incredible aesthetic pleasure to look around, you can shoot every house! And we walked, walked, walked. We climbed all the towers, the Town Hall, the Cathedral of St. Vita, to the Panava Pavilion, from where you can see the bridges of Prague. We tried national cuisine - soup in bread, boar's knee. We listened to an organ concert in the church, rode a boat, fed the swans. In general, they were in a child-enthusiastic and joyful state!
Stained glass windows in St. Vitus Cathedral
Night Prague Castle
The weather here was only cool, and at times it rained. But we remembered the slogan of the tourists and did not back down from our plans. We left for the day, first to Karlovy Vary, and then to Dresden.
Karlovy Vary we've been conquered! A city to match Prague, beautiful, unique, with a great history. Again walked, could not work up. They bought fruit at the market, and then ate it with a huge appetite. There are a lot of Russians, speech sounds from everywhere, they are treated there, they walk around with mugs in their hands. The main attractions are the colonnades - Market, Mill, Sadovaya. Church of Mary Magdalene, outdoor pool Termal with constant temperature in 30 grams, Dvorak gardens and, of course, Becherovka (museum and shop).
Dresden after such beauties, he seemed restrained, his aesthetics are completely different. But we did not regret that we went there. Moreover, the journey took a little more than 2 hours. We looked at the Center - Alstadt, Theater Square, the Opera House, the Frauenkirche Church, the residence castle, the Zwinger - the palace complex. True, they didn’t go to the art gallery, and they didn’t see the Sistine Madonna. Nothing, next time.
Frauenkirche
After Prague there was a move to Krumlov, into another Czech gem. That's certainly a town - a box. Sights - Castle, Cloak Bridge, Central Square, City Hall, Plague Column, etc. Again climbing all the peaks and stunning views!
We left Krumlov for Salzburg. My special dream! Because of Mozart, of course. I could not take my eyes off the house where he was born and where his family lived for 27 years. I wanted to remember, absorb! And from another house where the family moved, and Wolfgang lived there for 7 years. In the city, in general, everything is connected with him - the Cathedral, where he was baptized, the Old Residence of the Princes, where 6-year-old Mozart played in the Hall of Soviets. Therefore, we walked, and I constantly asked Vadik, “And Mozart saw this, what do you think, and this? He probably went here, but here? :)
Even in Salzburg, you can climb the Festunberg mountain, visit the Hohensalzburg fortress. Which is what we did. Moreover, the ascent began young and briskly, and ended barely trudging along, remembering all their diagnoses. We went down already on the funicular ... You can see the very beautiful Mirabell Park, the territory of the abbey of St. Petra, walk along the main street of Getreidegasse. And that's not all.
Salzach River
From Salzburg to Krumlov they decided to go through the lakes. It turned out a little detour, but not to see such beauty was just a crime! When we were driving, it was already evening, we were in a hurry, we were afraid that the sun would set and the views would not be so good. But we made it! The views were stunning, they are still standing in the eyes!
The first lake is the Fuschlsee, the second is the Wolfgangsee, and the third is the Traunsee. The last one is a small town. Gmunden with its castle Orth. Schubert lived in Gmunden, who wrote "Ave Maria", looking at this very castle. We could not resist, with an expression we sang a masterpiece (fortunately no one was around), and Vadik said that he would also write "Ave Maria" while living here! :)
Well, the last point of the program - Vein. Chic, imperial, white. We love her, although not everyone likes her. There is a huge list of must-see attractions. Belvedere Palace and Park, Hofburg Imperial Palace, Opera House, Parliament, St. Stephen, the Karlskirche church, the whole museum quarter and much more. We had only two days in the city, so we did not try to embrace the immensity, but we still saw a lot. The rest next time.
After Vienna, the road again lay in Poland. It took about 7 hours to get to Krakow, but we were already used to it. And with music and constant conversations, time flies by unnoticed. Krakow met us with warmth and sunshine, which could not but rejoice. We finally reached Wawel, climbed our 9th peak, and satisfied, completed the European program - at least.
What a result. Everywhere was just amazingly good! No negativity around, only goodwill and positive. Lots of tourists, yes. But we chose popular places, we had to reckon with this ...
And then - we drove through Poland, crossed the border in Domachevo. Moved in 1 hour. Because they did not have tax-free checks, and stood in the green corridor. In red, you would have to stand for 3 hours, if not more. In the evening in Brest they managed to get into. I was there in my school years and really wanted to visit again. Thanks to Vadik, he was already hacking from fatigue, but he supported me, and we trampled another 10 kilometers with our feet.
In the morning it was the way home. The last kilometers were not easy, but, as you know, everything ends. And as my mother said when I called her with the words “We are at home!” - "God bless!".
We covered 5,300 km in total in 16 days.
Concluding my long story, I want to say that this trip was wonderful! She keeps us emotionally still. We have been happy all these days without a break, our eyes have absorbed so much beauty, and our souls have so much joy that we want to share them with everyone! Vadik at work stirred up the people with his stories, and now everyone also urgently got together in travel by car to Europe! Isn't that a reward!?
We welcome everyone who came to our page.
My name is Vadim. I travel a lot and mostly it's Europe, well, Siberia, Altai, but these are completely different stories that I might write someday. Do not judge strictly, I write for the first time. And my story will be about an adventurous journey 12,000 km long.
Here you can see photos and videos. I hope that my story will be interesting, and most importantly, useful to future road travelers. All events that happened to us are real. A little about us. We are three friends of travelers: me, my wife and friend Alexander.
And so let's start in order. The idea to visit Portugal has been lingering in our subconscious for a very long time, because. this is almost the only country in Europe to which we have not yet reached. Our dream constantly "bumped" into objective reality: either the work did not let go, or there was not enough finance, or the company could not be assembled (we were looking for a fourth fellow traveler, but a reliable, sociable in general "our" person). We didn’t tense up much and generally thought that we wouldn’t go anywhere.
And then, at some point, life situations began to line up in such a way that everything stirred, the stars lined up, the factors that prevented organizing and making a trip dissipated, a fellow traveler was found. My wife went to a beauty salon, she was asked to wait a bit and she got into a conversation with the owner of the salon, with a good friend of hers, and she unexpectedly, immediately agreed to go with us. We have started working on the route.
And so, starting in St. Petersburg, we must get to Lisbon, having visited the extreme western point of Europe - Cape Roca, then descend to the south of Portugal to the Algarve coast, then to the extreme southern point of Europe - Tarifa with a visit to Gibraltar, back along the Mediterranean coast with a stop to Cassis (France), through Italy to the Hungarian thermal complexes in Zalakaros and Jaeger.
Team: 4 people, 2 of them are drivers with experience, one reserve and a boss (Rita).
Car: Skoda Octavia.
Equipment: tent, sleeping bags, blankets, foams, gas stove, spare gas cylinders for tiles, photo, video equipment, quadrocopter, food for the first time, coffee, tea.
We did not book our overnight stays in advance, with the exception of one in Minsk-Mazowiecki (Poland), because this was our first stop after a long haul and needed to check in quickly and easily late in the evening. Housing was not reserved only for the reason that it would not depend on the reservation on the road and travel more “flexibly”.
While preparing the trip, we considered various options economical travel. One of these points is to take a passenger through BLABLACAR, because Skoda Octavia I was allowed to take a fifth person with me. I want to say that this option works, it is real. But potential fellow travelers call and the last hours before the start. So, a fifth person appeared in our company, who wished to go to Brest (Belarus). Video
If you come to Warsaw by car and want to explore the city, it is best to do it on foot or with the help of public transport. In Warsaw, on weekdays, the number of traffic jams is not inferior to Moscow. At the same time, it is advisable to leave the car in one of the many parking lots or parking lots. How to use parking lots in Warsaw?
An international driver's license (IDP) is not an independent document and it is not legal to drive a car with only an IDL. It is important! At its core, it is only a translation of our Russian (national) driving license, which is used in conjunction with it.
On the streets of Paris, you can increasingly see parking lots, where cars are connected by a wire to a small rack on the sidewalk. These are electric vehicles. Currently, the number of this transport of the future is growing every year and not only in Paris, but throughout France. Despite the fact that the travel time on such an electric car is only two hours, this is quite enough to get to the place of work through Parisian traffic jams.
Crossing the Russian-Finnish border. Where it is easier and more convenient for you, you cross there. By car, the Russian-Finnish border can be crossed in several places. Where and how to cross the Russian-Finnish border in your car, we read further in this article.
You are going to visit Finland by car. As in any country, you can be fined for violating traffic rules. Of course, one should strive to travel by car in Finland without traffic violations. However, unfortunately, there are situations in which it is impossible to foresee everything. And if it suddenly happens that you broke the rules, then know what will happen to you.
