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The diagram does not show the pinout of the block called Vehicle Specific Harness. Yes, but it is not needed. With it, it is convenient to connect without additional wires, breaking the wiring of the ignition switch and that's it. But it is not for sale for VAG cars. It has 3 wires:
- Green to +12V ignition
- Red to constant +12V
- Blue (why it is needed is not completely clear ... in books on Japanese cars there are two wires IGN1 and IGN2, I don’t know what the difference is, but I didn’t use it).
- Black ground (connects to any ground point, but if the connection with the lambda probe option is used, then to the ECU ground wire).
- Gray to the handbrake limit switch.
- White to lambda probe.
- The first simple option only requires you to connect the power without the white wire.
- The second one is more difficult in the sense that, firstly, you need to climb to the ECU and look for the wire of the lambda probe and ground, and secondly, we have a broadband lambda probe, and it has a completely different type of signal, and more than one kind of ... so this connection option has disappeared . If you have any ideas, I'll be happy to hear them.
- First, in the harness behind the instrument cluster, we find a thick red wire. This is +12V ignition switch. We connect the green wire of the turbo timer to it.
- We connect the red wire to the relay block in the legs, there you can find a good connection for the nut (check that it is constantly +12).
- The ground wire can be connected in the same place to any good contact (be sure to check that there is exactly ground and that, for example, +12 does not appear after the ignition is turned on).
- There are two wires going to the handbrake switch. One brown and white. We connect the gray wire of the turbo timer to it.
- I placed the block itself in the area of \u200b\u200bthe relay block and fixed it on plastic clamps, it turned out well.
- I placed the indicator block in the middle of the dashboard lining in the very top part above the alarm button. I carefully dismantled the block of indicators, filed it with a file where necessary, grinded off the place where the wire comes out in order to hide it as much as possible. I drilled a hole in the overlay and glued the block on double-sided tape.
Increasing the turbocharging resource is a natural desire of every conscious car owner. Consider how a do-it-yourself turbo timer is installed and whether it is worth installing it on a diesel engine at all.
Operation logic
The turbo timer allows the engine to continue to idle after the key has been removed from the ignition. The device is used in internal combustion engines equipped with a turbocharger. Gasoline or diesel is used as fuel - it does not matter. Under heavy loads, prolonged operation at high speeds, the turbocharger becomes very hot. During operation, engine oil is used for cooling, and in some turbines, coolant. After the engine stops, the oil circulation stops. Therefore, at too high a temperature in the channels, the oil burns, which leads to the formation of soot. When the operation of the turbine is resumed, the burnt oil will act as an abrasive, grinding down the surfaces of rubbing parts. In addition, deposits reduce the cross section of the oil channels, thereby impairing the supply of lubricant. The logic of the turbo timer is to let the engine run for a few more minutes after stopping to cool the turbine. At the same time, you can safely close the car and leave on business. The engine will stall after the programmed time has elapsed.
Installation expediency
The turbo timer is most often installed on a diesel engine only due to the more frequent use of turbochargers paired with. In what cases is it desirable to install this accessory:
But even in this case, strong arguments can be put forward against the installation of a turbo timer:
- a diesel or gasoline engine is used for measured city driving with infrequent loads. Even if from time to time you have to actively pedal, then a quiet ride in the mode up to 2000 t / rpm even 1 minute before stopping is enough to cool the turbocharger of a modern car. It would be useful to recall the high requirements for engine oil, which should be poured into turbocharged engines;
- the car is equipped with an alarm system with a turbo timer function. In this case, installing a separate device will be a waste of money. The functionality of the alarm system can be viewed on the official website of the security system.
DIY installation
Please note that it will be an extremely difficult task to install a turbo timer on a car equipped with a standard alarm, with control over the main nodes via the CAN bus, and also equipped with a modern security complex. You will need the skills to read electrical circuits, as well as understanding the logic of the main electronic systems of a car.
With an unqualified do-it-yourself connection, there is a high risk of conflict between systems, which is fraught with the appearance of various "glitches", the Check engine catching fire and weakening the level of protection for your car from theft.
For the design of the device, it does not matter whether the turbo timer is installed on a diesel or gasoline engine. The difference in the connection will relate in many respects only to the power supply of the service functions of the device. The connection logic will differ depending on the specific car model and turbo timer. When buying a device from famous manufacturers (HKS, Apexi, Greddy, TT, Blitz, TTX), in most cases you get:
- Control block;
- a module with a screen for demonstrating the time report and other service functions;
- wires and connectors for connection;
- instructions.
Installation
To install the kit on your car, you will need:
- pliers with which you can bite the wire and crimp the terminals;
- terminals "father-mother". You will also need a bolt terminal for the “ground”, if one is not provided in the kit;
- heat shrink for reliable insulation of joints;
- clamps for fixing wires;
- screwdrivers and other tools necessary for assembling / disassembling the interior.
Do-it-yourself installation begins with de-energizing the on-board network (throw off the negative terminal of the battery). You need to remove the interior plastic that blocks access to the contact group of the ignition switch. To install a turbo timer on a diesel/gasoline, you need to "cut" into the wires coming from the ignition switch. The module, which often comes with double-sided tape, can be fixed in a place convenient for you near the tidy. The same method is suitable for mounting the control box, which can be placed inside the dashboard. If possible, it is better to additionally fix the block and wires with screeds in order to avoid further extraneous noise when driving through bumps.
Turbo timer connection
The degree of complexity of connecting with your own hands depends on the specific model of the turbo timer, as well as the electrical equipment of your car. The main catch is to fool the comfort block, if there is one in the design of your car. It will not allow you to arm the car with the engine running. 
The diesel turbo timer has the following standard connection pins:
To install a turbo timer with your own hands, you need a contact group diagram. If you wish, you can use the multimeter in DC current measurement mode. So you can determine the wire on which “+” is used for any life support of the motor (usually with the largest cross section and red color) or appears only after turning the key to the ACC position. Power is supplied to the handbrake terminals only when the parking brake lever is raised. "Mass" can be connected to any bolt adjacent to the car body.
To connect the wires, the standard wiring does not need to be cut. The ideal option is to pull the wires you need from the blocks, introduce the wires from the turbo timer there, and then re-crimp them in the terminal and install them back into the block. Often, due to not very convenient access, it is extremely difficult to perform such manipulations when installing a turbo timer on a diesel engine. Therefore, a slightly “barbaric method” is used - a small section of insulation is exposed, on which the wire from the turbo timer is wound. The twist is additionally soldered and carefully insulated.
Full connection
Sometimes you can find the installation of a turbo timer on a diesel engine, in which the ground wire and the connection pin to the handbrake are twisted and closed to ground. The purpose of the parking brake information is necessary for your own safety:
- if the turbo timer is correctly installed, the device will keep the engine idling only when the handbrake is activated. Releasing the parking brake will stop the engine. The function is mostly positioned as an anti-theft, but an experienced thief can leave the parking brake barely on, which will not interfere with movement. In cars with automatic transmission, it is better to install a turbo timer paired with an automatic transmission selector. The turbo timer should only work in the P position, which will really increase the degree of protection;
- on a car with a manual transmission, when the engine is running in neutral, a hydraulic transmission effect is created. The rotation of the gears through the oil transmits, albeit a small, but force to the drive shafts (try to hang one of the wheels of the drive axle and start the engine; you will see that it will rotate). Therefore, the operation of the engine without a parking brake and the driver in the cabin is a potentially unsafe situation;
- Not all turbo timers are equipped with a forced shutdown function. If you were moving to a stop in a quiet mode, then there is no need to continue the operation of the motor after a stop. By removing the key, and then raising, lowering and raising the parking brake lever again, you can manually turn off the turbo timer if desired.
A turbo timer installed in a standard way on a diesel engine will perform a direct function, as well as show the voltage of the on-board network. Connection of outputs for additional indications (for example, auto speed, engine speed, gear shift indication, etc.) is described in the instructions for the device. There you will also find a manual for setting the motor run time delay.
The APEXi 405 turbo timer is designed in the form of a handle, it is compact and harmoniously fits into the interior of any car (the most compact turbo timer on the market). Ergonomics is also on top - the timer is controlled thanks to a convenient 4-position joystick.
Suitable for petrol and diesel cars!
The package of the APEXi turbo timer includes: an indication unit with a joystick, a control unit with built-in relays, a set of wires 0.7 m long, terminals for connection, connection and setup instructions .
The Japanese company APEXi is a recognized world leader in the production of tuning components, such as exhaust systems, intake and cooling systems, shock absorbers, turbines, electronics. APEXi products for many in the world of tuning is the standard of quality.
There are two connection options. The turbo timer is programmable and can itself calculate the delay time according to the readings of the lambda probe. Or it can simply work as a time relay (naturally, you can manually set the time). In addition, the turbo timer is connected to the handbrake. This is a security element. If, for example, while the engine is running, someone gets into the car and tries to drive away, then by lowering the handbrake, the turbo timer will turn off the engine. The first simple option only requires you to connect the power without the white wire. The second one is more difficult in the sense that, firstly, you need to climb to the ECU and look for the wire of the lambda probe and ground, and secondly, we have a broadband lambda probe, and it has a completely different type of signal, and more than one kind of ... so this connection option has disappeared . If you have any ideas, I'll be happy to hear them. Now we connect the turbo timer itself. First, in the harness behind the instrument cluster, we find a thick red wire. This is +12V ignition switch. We connect the green wire of the turbo timer to it. We connect the red wire to the relay block in the legs, there you can find a good connection for the nut (check that it is constantly +12). The ground wire can be connected in the same place to any good contact (be sure to check that there is exactly ground and that, for example, +12 does not appear after the ignition is turned on). There are two wires going to the handbrake switch. One brown and white. We connect the gray wire of the turbo timer to it. I placed the block itself in the area of \u200b\u200bthe relay block and fixed it on plastic clamps, it turned out well. I placed the indicator block in the middle of the dashboard lining in the very top part above the alarm button. I carefully dismantled the block of indicators, filed it with a file where necessary, grinded off the place where the wire comes out in order to hide it as much as possible. I drilled a hole in the overlay and glued the block on double-sided tape. Installation completed. With a simple version, the turbo timer does not need to be adjusted. Shows the voltage of the onboard network.
A turbo timer is essential to protect a turbocharged engine from premature wear and damage from thermal shock. After the ignition is turned off, the turbo timer keeps the engine idling until the turbine temperature drops to a safe level. The turbo timer is installed on cars with a turbocharged engine.
At high engine load, the turbocharger rotor (shaft with compressor and turbine impellers) develops under a hundred thousand revolutions per minute. If the motor is suddenly stopped, the rotor rotates by inertia. But the oil pump is no longer working, and the remaining oil burns out in hot plain bearings. They wear out rapidly, gaps increase - oil is sucked into the cylinders, the engine smokes, pistons and rings become overgrown with soot, control system sensors fail ... Troubles can be avoided if the engine is allowed to run at minimum idle speed for at least a minute before stopping. During this time, the rotor will have time to slow down to a minimum, the bearings will cool down - and the motor will stop painlessly.
The main features of the turbo timer
Support for engine operation after the ignition is turned off
Automatic determination of the time required for the turbine to cool down
Setting the basic cooling time for the turbine
Teaching signals and logic levels of engine sensors, as well as idle speed
Disabling certain car alarm sensors and engine blocking while the turbo timer is running
It is installed in cars with gasoline and diesel engines equipped with automatic or manual gearboxes (as well as in cars not equipped with a tachometer sensor)
Programming operating modes
Indication of operating modes
Device and principle of operation.
After a trip by car, you, as always, pull out the key from the ignition, get out of the car and go about your business, and in the meantime, the car, thanks to the installed turbo timer, continues to work for another 1-3 minutes, cooling the turbine. After the set time, the turbo timer will shut off the engine.
With an aggressive driving style, the engine and turbine operate at their limit and the oil temperature is higher than usual, therefore, in order to extend the life of the engine and turbine, it is necessary to let the car “cool down” for some time. To do this, you can either not turn off the car after stopping for 2-5 minutes, or install a turbo timer that will do the same, only automatically when you have already removed the ignition key, closed the car and sit at home. At the same time, the Apex Auto Timer turbo timer can determine the necessary time for the car to cool down, or you can set the time manually. It is also possible to display data from the lambda probe and display the battery charge.
Turbo timer can be purchased and installed in our installation center
Imagine that the driver stops the car, turns the key to the OFF position, and the engine does not stall, continuing to run for several more minutes. Here are the steps to be taken when operating automatic turbo timers. In fact, there are still "semi-automatic". They are somewhat more difficult to operate: when the car is not moving, you need to remove the key from the lock, and then you need to activate the handbrake. If this is not done, the engine will not stop until the fuel runs out. Simply, the “semiautomatic” should receive a command to start the countdown, and it is given by closing the “handbrake” microbutton.
We deal with the ignition lock terminals
It would seem that if you can implement the automatic timer option, then why talk about "semi-automatic" at all? In fact, a semi-automatic timer will be easy to connect to any car, but this cannot be said about the “automatic”. Look at the diagrams below:
Connecting a turbo timer in different cars
This shows how to connect exactly the automatic timer. Suppose the presence of two ignition circuits (IGN and IGN2) is not provided for in the auto circuit. Then you can not do without installing a diode. The diode itself, shown in diagram "A", must pass a significant amount of current, while the voltage drop across it is desirable to minimize. In practice, finding such a detail is not easy.
The current strength for which the diode is designed must exceed the figures indicated on the body of the fuse that protects the switched circuit.
The ignition lock terminals are usually designated as follows:
- 30 - contact to which voltage is applied all the time;
- 2 - terminal connected to contact "30" when the key is in the ACC or IGN position. Through the terminal "2" the current goes to the power supply circuit of the accessories;
- 50 - starter contact, receiving the potential "+12 Volts" when the key is brought to the START mark;
- 15 - terminal of the main ignition circuit. It closes with the 30th contact when the key is turned to the following labels: IGN, START;
- 15/2 - terminal of the second ignition circuit. Positive potential is on it when the key is turned to the IGN label, but not START.
Connecting a semi-automatic timer The relay shown in the diagram can be placed by the manufacturer together with the turbo timer electronics in one housing. Then the connection diagram will look simpler (fig. on the right). The switch that switches the "zero potential" is a micro-button of the "handbrake" or a separate key in the cabin. Its presence is mandatory.
Consider the algorithm of operation of semi-automatic timers:
- As soon as the key is moved to the IGN position, the relay is activated, and the corresponding indicator on the console lights up;
- To open the relay contacts, you need to activate the countdown. This action is performed by closing the contacts of the microbutton.
Imagine a non-standard situation: the handbrake is applied, the driver turns the key to the IGN position and then turns off the ignition again. Then, after the time pre-set in the settings, the relay contacts should open. In general, during the operation of the "semiautomatic device" there will not be any situations leading to unexpected consequences. But caution is advised.
The question remains which of the three considered options to give preference in reality. The car owner himself must answer it.
Method not to be used in practice
It would seem that the role of a turbo timer can be performed by a certain module connected to terminals "30" and "15" by a pair of wires. As soon as the voltage is lost on pin "15", the relay built into the module will close the two wires together, and the current in the circuit will be restored. The switch that activates the start of counting is not used here. The current in the circuit disappears for a short time, and then it appears again.
Solutions that implement the principle indicated here are present on the market. Only here any relay has a significant response time.
Not every engine is designed to have the main ignition circuit periodically open. In fact, you can see this:
- A turbo timer designed according to the principle discussed here works as it should in 30-50% of cases;
- In other cases, the relay also works reliably. But the motor, not designed for the disappearance of the spark, has time to stall before the timer contacts begin to pass current.
Draw your own conclusions.
Video example: automatic timer in action
Alarm with built-in turbo timer and its selection
The function of a timer that supports the operation of the engine can be performed by a car alarm. Therefore, now, in 2015, few people buy a turbo timer made as a separate device. Let's say the following diagram is given in the instructions that came with the equipment:
Unsoldering the main connector of the car alarm As you can see, there is a diode inside the main module. This means that it is included in the break in the wire of the ignition circuit. We are talking about a variant of the scheme, indicated by the letter "A" in chapter "1".
Scheme "A" from "Chapter 1" has the maximum versatility. For cars where two ignition circuits are provided, it is suitable to the same extent as for all other cars. Well, the “minus” from the presence of a diode is a voltage drop, sometimes exceeding 1 Volt.
In the manual for equipment of another model, everything looks different. Here is the wiring of the connector, equipped with 6 terminals:
Power 6-pin alarm connector The wire in green insulation passes the current that bypasses the lock terminals. At the same time, it is a "control input". The wire indicated in the diagram is connected in a T-shape, and the break points, if you do not take into account the presence of a “block”, are completely absent here. None of the schemes given in the first chapter is implemented with such signaling. It’s good if in this case they suggest using a “semiautomatic device”, otherwise you will have to be content with the option discussed in “Chapter 3”.
Signaling models that allow you to implement any of the above schemes also exist. True, a separate relay is attached to them, the power contacts of which must close the main circuit. This increases the complexity of the installation and reduces the overall reliability.
