Bodies of many modern cars are processed at the factory, the body elements of the machine are galvanized.
But more prestigious brands of cars have resistance to corrosion, the bodies of budget cars are not very reliable, and over time they begin to rot. The question of how to remove rust from a car body worries many car owners, and in this article we will look at how you can deal with corrosion with your own hands.
The importance of car maintenance
At right approach it is generally impossible to allow rust on the body, and in order to protect yourself from it, it is necessary to carry out preventive measures:
- do anti-corrosion treatment wheel arches and bottoms;
- process thresholds with a special composition;
- regularly wash the car, wiping it after washing with a clean and soft rag (but do not rub a dry cloth on a dry surface of the body).
Some car owners believe that frequent car washing harms the bodywork, and the paintwork deteriorates from frequent wiping. But this is not entirely true - body elements salt and reagents from the road settle along with the dirt, and if they are not washed off, they will gradually eat away at the paint. 
How to remove rust from a car
But still, over time, rust can appear even with a careful attitude to the car. Corrosion appears due to poor painting of the machine at the factory - the paint swells as a result of poor preparation for painting. If the car was bought from hand, it is possible that the previous owner did not follow the car well. vehicle, which is why body parts"Redheads" began to appear.
Corrosion often appears:
- on the paint of the rear fenders in the area of the wheel arches;
- on the thresholds;
- at the bottom of the doors;
- on the front of the hood;
- on the bottom of the door (lid) of the trunk.
Let's outline in in general terms how to remove rust from a car:
- the treated area of the body surface is thoroughly washed from dirt;
- seal the paintwork around the damage with masking tape;
- sanding rust to bare metal;
- prime the surface, allowing the primer to dry thoroughly;
- we clean the place of damage first with coarse sandpaper, then with fine sandpaper;
- paint the bodywork.
It is necessary to monitor the paintwork, take care of the car, and then the likelihood of new foci of corrosion will be minimized. What needs to be done for this:
The appearance of rust on the body is a problem of many cars, it is especially common on cars. domestic production. To avoid body rotting, it is necessary to remove traces of corrosion immediately, if this is not done, the rust will eat through the iron, and then a more thorough body repair will be required.
Let's see how you can remove rust from the doors with your own hands. For work you will need:
- sandpaper coarse and fine-grained (P-120 and P-600);
- can of putty;
- spatulas different sizes and types;
- paint to match the color of the car;
- masking tape;
- degreaser;
- rags;
- electric machine for stripping the body with nozzles (you can use an electric drill).
The car must be thoroughly washed beforehand. Let's get to work:
If the paint is applied by spraying, it is necessary to cover the surface near the treated area, usually tape and paper are used for this. But if the rust stain was small, it makes no sense to bother with a can, it is enough to paint the body element with a brush. 
Paint putty from the first time may not paint over, so you will have to paint over the damage site in several stages. If there are a lot of mushrooms on the doors, the flaws in the body are eliminated in approximately the same way, but with self-elimination defects, it should be borne in mind that several painted areas will be noticeable on the car, since it is unlikely that it will be possible to pick up paint and professionally apply it to the body surface.
In approximately the same way, rust is removed from the thresholds, fenders, hood, and this is how rust is removed from the car body with your own hands. It should also be noted that for budget car the described method of removing rust is fine, but working with more expensive car it is better to entrust to professional masters.
To remove traces of corrosion, there are special tools produced by the industry. There are rust converters with different formulations which are based on:
- manganese and zinc;
- organic or inorganic acids;
- orthophosphoric acid.
The most well-known means for removing traces of corrosion under the brands LAVR and NEOMID, the composition of the converter cleans the metal surface from corrosion when liquid is applied to metal surface.
How to work with an industrial rust converter:
Removing rust from thresholds
We fight corrosion on thresholds as follows:
- with a special metal brush mounted on a drill, we thoroughly protect the metal, it is necessary to clean it so that not even a stain of rye remains;
- moisten a rag with a rust neutralizer, wipe the threshold;
- we wait an hour, clean the surface with a rag;
- we take a liquid primer in a can, by spraying we apply it to the threshold;
- we wait a few minutes, apply a second layer of soil;
- paint the threshold with car enamel;
- for reliability, it would be nice to treat the outside of the body element with liquid anti-gravel from a bottle.
It should be noted that putty for thresholds should not be used - the metal here works on twisting, and the putty will quickly fall off.
The principle of rust control on all car body elements is approximately the same, there is only a slight difference in the process technology. Removing rust from the rear wing is done in much the same way as from the door, but you can process the metal in a slightly different way.
As a rule, on the wing, rust appears under the paint, and the mushrooms become noticeable under the swollen paintwork. 
With an orbital sander, we clean the paint to metal, we process the surface with a small margin. 
Rust converter is applied to the treated area of the wing. We wait for time, wash off the anti-rust, degrease. 
We apply epoxy, glue fiberglass.
Close up fiberglass on top epoxy glue, then glue another piece of fabric on top, also cover it. 
While the epoxy is not dry, we expel air from it with a brush. We process the area with an orbital machine with an emery wheel P-120, apply putty with aluminum filler on top. We grind the wing first with coarse-grained, then with fine-grained sandpaper, degrease and paint the body surface with car enamel.
A red attack named rust annoys many motorists. The worse protected body car from the effects of corrosion at the factory (galvanization), the more often the owners will have to make efforts to eliminate red spots. Moreover, it is undesirable to delay the liquidation, since over time the damage to the metal only increases. As a result, in six months you will have to spend much more time and money than today. So, what is needed to remove rust and mushrooms with your own hands and how to remove them without harming the body.
Causes and locations of rust on a car body
Rust is the oxidation of metal, which occurs under the influence of air, water and static electricity. Therefore, the main reason for its occurrence is damage paintwork car body. Microcracks and physical damage allow air and moisture to get to the iron. The rate of destructive impact will depend on the degree of protection of the body itself and the aggressiveness environment. Especially it concerns winter period when a lot of chemicals appear on our roads.
The above factors directly affect the shape, color and depth of corrosion. The people call them differently: “saffron mushrooms”, “bugs” or simply “rusty spots”, but they have the same essence (only the degree of neglect is different). A single spot of rust is easier to deal with than many small red dots. The latter usually indicates poor quality metal or an unsuccessful body repair. The total processing area will be larger. Moreover, these points more often spread in depth, and not in breadth. Paint blistering also signals the need to remove corrosion that has begun to develop under the paintwork.
Places of the most frequent localization of bugs and rust spots (photo)
Work can be done manually or with the help of special machines
The main thing is to work carefully and slowly. There should be no deep scratches and rough transitions. Try to get a polished surface with smooth drops.
Bulgarian is often in the arsenal of a motorist
Layer by layer, the damaged paintwork is removed and subsequent damage zones are processed
The longevity of the result depends on the thoroughness of the work.
Universal types of putty, oddly enough, are still not suitable for all types of car bodies
It is applied in several layers and each is polished to a smooth state. Your goal is to close up all the recesses and achieve a perfectly flat surface after the work is completed.
You will need several types of sandpaper to work.
Do not spare protective equipment, especially if you are doing the work for the first time
Film, newspapers and masking tape are perfect for this. If you are working outdoors, be sure to consider the direction of the wind.
Make sure that dust and other abrasive particles do not get on the treated surface.
Painting work requires minimal skills!
The result is not always as in the photo, it is often necessary to refine and eliminate flaws
A good way to remove and repair rust on a car door (video)
Do-it-yourself chemical way to get rid of corrosion
The method using chemistry differs only in the initial stage - cleaning the part from rust. According to manufacturers, these substances are able to etch rust, stop its further spread and do not damage the iron itself (unlike "sandpaper"). The application is very simple - apply the product for 30-40 minutes on a rusty surface, then wipe with a cloth or rinse with water. But to get a beautiful and even surface, you still have to clean, putty and polish (except for the initial stages of corrosion).
Some funds are available to motorists even with the most modest budget
On sale there are kits that allow you to apply yourself protective layer zinc for car body The kit already contains a solution for removing rust and applying a protective layer, as well as an electrode with a zinc tip. This process is electrochemical, so a connection to a battery is required.
The kit includes fluids and all necessary working tools
How can I remove the "saffron milk" and "bugs"
Many want to believe that if rust has just appeared and the foci are small, then they can be eliminated by some miracle remedy. Unfortunately, this is basically impossible. The rust that appeared on the surface of the paintwork is like the tip of the iceberg, the main damage is deep inside.
On sale there are tools that will help remove the red color from the body. For example, there is Antirust paste - it eliminates red spots quite quickly and well. This is the same rust converter that we discussed above. It eliminates the visible signs, but not the source itself. Such manipulations are usually enough for 2-6 weeks (depending on weather conditions), and they are used most often immediately before the sale of the car.
Small "bugs" sometimes cause big problems to the car seller!
If you want to get rid of the problem in the long term, then physical intervention is indispensable. It is necessary to stop the access of air and moisture directly to the metal. Theoretically, it is possible to prolong the effect of the paste if, after treatment, cover the damaged area of the body clear varnish. But it will work if the converter has managed to remove all the rust. In most cases, this does not happen, since the penetration depth of the agent is small.
Unfortunately, it will not be possible to hide damage for a long time only with the help of paste.
Prevention and protection of the car
The means available to every motorist, but which most of them ignore, will help to avoid the work done:
- regular car wash even in winter (additional waxing increases protection against aggressive environments);
- regular inspection clean car(at the initial stages it is much easier to fix the problem);
- fenders and mudguards on all wheels (will keep the paintwork in presentable much longer);
- anti-gravel film on the hood and part of the roof above the windshield (an alternative is a “fly swatter”);
- anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom of the machine.
The work to eliminate the "bugs" and "saffron mushrooms" is within the power of everyone. But for good result it will take delicacy and time (especially the first time). Consider whether it is in your power to prevent such sources of trouble. Advanced corrosion leads to costly body repair no guarantees. Take care of your car and it will reciprocate.
In this article, we will tell you how corrosion appears on a car, how to deal with it, and give tips on removing rust on a car from personal experience.
Why does a car start to rust?
Only iron can rust, which oxidizes when the metal is combined with water. Metal corrosion is an electrochemical process in which electrons are emitted from the anode (its role is played by a metal body) and through the electrolyte (water with a slight admixture of salts) enter the cathode (metal parts). As a result, the iron of the machine is converted into iron oxide - that is, it rusts.If the nature of "household" corrosion is electrochemical, then any chips of paint to metal are potential sites of corrosion damage. As soon as an electrolyte appears there in the form of water, rusting will not keep you waiting.
Understanding the corrosion process provides the tools to deal with it. Because the car body is made of iron, then the anode and cathode will always be found, but we have to do something with the electrolyte. By the way, it is precisely because of the greater saturation of chemical reagents with various salts that utilities use in winter that the car begins to rust intensively during this period.
Ways to fight corrosion
Mankind has come up with barrier corrosion protection that does not allow physical contact of metal with external environment and protective. Barrier protection is paint and varnish, everything that protects the surface from the atmosphere.The principle of tread protection is different: the “sacrificial” metal should be oxidized - for example, zinc, which is in direct contact with steel. As a result of the electrochemical reaction, zinc corrodes, not iron. Such a coating is effective even in the presence of defects, and the protection lasts longer, the thicker the zinc layer. We all know about the good corrosion resistance of galvanized bodies, a vivid example is Audi 100 cars, which are in good condition even after 30 years.
Let's talk about the way to combat corrosion. The first way is passive. It is necessary to cover the metal of the body with an insulating coating - i.e. prime and paint. This process is effective way corrosion prevention. But it is necessary to constantly monitor the integrity of the protective coating, check for minor damage- cracks, bumps and chips on the body.
Also, this path includes activities related to the cleanliness of the machine - washing (every two weeks) and periodic waxing - water drains faster from the coating along it.
The second path is called active- based on the use of various coatings on the metal. To do this, mastics, sealants and anti-corrosion materials. In general, drugs are used for the most subject to corrosion sections of the car - the bottom, thresholds, arches. Additional protection is effective only if applied to absolutely clean and dry surfaces, otherwise water may remain under the protective film, which will continue the corrosion process.
The third way is electrochemical. It is used less often due to the high cost and the need for constant power supply to the installed electronic device. Due to the change in the electrode potential, corrosion processes in the car begin to take place only in a certain place. The cathode is not the body of the car, but a special electrode that rusts instead of it.
All ways to protect the car perfectly complement each other, but sometimes a slip occurs and the process of rust appears in all its brown-red glory. Here you need to act quickly, because. Starting the corrosion process is easy, but getting rid of it is much more difficult.
How to remove yourself?
First things first, you need to carefully remove the rust. For this, a weak solution of alkaline acid is used, which is processed damaged place and then removed mechanically (with sandpaper or metal brushes). Carefully follow the requirements of the instructions, because. acid is quite aggressive and corrodes rust from the inside. This process must be stopped in time.Also effective rust converters or modifiers, which, as a result of a chemical reaction, convert iron oxide to iron tannate and are a more stable substance. Quality modifiers contain polymers and act as a primer. Minus - if the metal oxide is not processed in its entirety and remains, then the corrosion process will continue.
It is easy to find rust converters in stores various kinds. The cost is not high. The processing process is simple: first, we sand the damaged area to bare metal, then apply the composition (you can use a brush) and leave it for up to 12 hours, depending on the instructions. Don't be alarmed when the cleaned area turns green - that's the rust modifier at work.
Video. Removing mushrooms from cars
Further, everything is standard - the place from which the rust was removed (or converted) is puttied, primed and painted. Actions are repeated as needed. To prevent the appearance of rust on the car in the future, it is recommended to do anti-corrosion treatment.
Almost every car owner eventually encounters such a phenomenon as corrosion of a metal surface, in other words, rust. Of course, it is best to take preventive measures in advance and prevent its occurrence, but if a rusty coating has already appeared, then you should not give up, but you need to think about how to remove rust from a car with your own hands. Rust on a car body is a fairly common phenomenon, therefore, for the process of its removal, modern facilities to help motorists. The use of such funds is effective and uncomplicated.
Most often, the car body, bottom and fender liner suffer from manifestations of rust. To prevent corrosion, occasionally treat by special means those metal parts that do not have a paint coating.
Rust - what is it
This phenomenon appears in the case of the interaction of metal, air and water. During the interaction, the metal is oxidized. Rust occurs in water, and after it dries, it settles on a metal surface. The fight against metal oxidation must be carried out on time and carefully, because otherwise, rust will appear endlessly.
Often the corrosion of any metal is called rust, this is a little wrong, only iron and the alloys in which it is included can rust. It manifests itself in the form of patches of red plaque (the color changes from red-brown to bright orange).
Reasons for the appearance
As a result of complex chemical processes, iron begins to oxidize and, in other words, it “burns out”. Do not leave your vehicle indoors with high humidity on long term- you run the risk of finding rust on unpainted areas in a couple of weeks.
A loose rusty spot on a car body will draw in moisture from the surrounding air, retain it and, due to this, grow very quickly. It should be borne in mind that after its manifestation, rust can develop not only in a damp place, but also capture dry ones.
The causes of corrosion of iron surfaces can be:
- stay of the vehicle in a damp room for a long time;
- non-use of anti-corrosion agents in places without paintwork, that is, the most susceptible to this process;
- dents, deep scratches and other defects car body.
How to prevent appearance on the car body
New car, on the body of which there are no scratches, chipped paint and other defects, will be the least susceptible to rust. Caring manufacturers do everything possible so that the metal does not oxidize and does not undergo rust spots. The body of a new car is not afraid of wet weather, but unprotected iron fenders and the bottom may well begin to oxidize.
Advice! When purchasing a car, immediately treat places without paintwork anti-corrosion agents.
The use of a car in the autumn-winter period will contribute to the development of corrosion of a metal surface. At this time of year, rain, snow and slush penetrate deep under the fender liner, stick to the bottom of the car, and then melt in the garage and cause the iron to oxidize. It is these parts of the car that are most often exposed to rust. During the use of the vehicle, the treatment with neutralizers is washed off the fender liner due to constant splashes of water, salt sprinkled on the snow, and also from the “Karcher” with which the car is washed. After analyzing this situation, one can come to only one conclusion - so that the metal does not oxidize, it is necessary to regularly thoroughly treat the car with anti-corrosion agents. Usually such processing is enough for a couple of years of hard use of the car.
In case of damage to the car body, before its restoration, specialists first process the iron, and only then proceed to its alignment, puttying and painting. If after damage you do not plan to repair the car immediately, then you should at least treat with a converter those areas that have undergone deformation and damage.
Rust control - how and what to do
If you did not have time to do rust prevention, i.e. protect the metal surface from it with a neutralizer film, and corrosion has already appeared, then we must begin to fight it. Using complex methods and tools, you can remove rusty plaque from the body forever. The anti-corrosion company consists of three stages, the first of which has remained unchanged for two hundred years, and the second and third - treatment with anti-corrosion agents - will leave the victory for you.
step by step rust removal
To successfully remove metal corrosion, it is not enough just to remove it from the surface of the car. At the first stage, you need to thoroughly clean the affected areas from it, try to clean off the rusty coating as much as possible.
At the initial stage of rust, ordinary sandpaper can be used to clean the metal surface. Immediately go over the affected surface with a coarse-grained cloth, and then process it with fine-grained sandpaper.
Stage 1. To permanently remove metal corrosion, it is not enough just to remove it from the car. Immediately it is necessary to clean it from the affected areas, and preferably carefully and as completely as possible. If rust is still in the initial stage of occurrence, it will be enough just to clean the metal surface from it. Normal sandpaper will do. First, it is worth removing it completely with a coarse-grained canvas, then fine-grained processing is needed.
In the case when rust has spread to most of the body and there are already swellings, then it is better to use a metal brush to remove it, putting it on a drill. This method will help you not only quickly, but also effectively remove rusty deposits.
Also, a special cleaning agent will help you speed up and simplify the process of removing rust; you can buy it at any car shop and relatively for low price. The remover consists of an alkaline acid that instantly acts on the iron surface. Rust layers begin to lag behind the metal and are easily removed.
So that the iron does not wear out after even one such cleaning, the remover contains a number of compounds that soften the action of alkaline acids. It is important to withstand the technology and not leave the substance on the metal for a long time. Otherwise, after the product has dried, it will turn out that the rust has not gone away. Pay attention to the temperature at which you will apply the rust remover. To further prevent the occurrence of metal corrosion, it is necessary to choose the optimal temperature at which chemical composition remover has the maximum effect on the damaged surface.
Advice! It is best to choose a temperature of 60-70 degrees.
Stage 2. At the next stage, a converter must be applied to the cleaned areas (this tool is also called a modifier). This is a substance that converts iron oxide into protective film. That is, the converter turns rust against itself in such a way that it does not appear in the future. After applying this agent to the cleaned places, a chemical reaction occurs between it and the iron oxides, as a result of which a dense film appears, due to which rust does not appear again.
Depending on the viscosity of the transducer, you can decide how you will apply it - with a brush or with a spray gun. There are about fifty types of modifiers, any of them is able to cope with rust and prevent its further occurrence.
Stage 3. The third stage concerns only the car body - this is puttying, leveling and painting the place affected by rust. If corrosion was removed from other iron parts of the car, then the struggle ends with the application of the converter.
How to remove rust from a car with your own hands, you can watch the video:
An ominous brown stain on the fender, a bubble on the paint at the bottom of the door, suddenly wet after passing a large puddle - all this clear signs the fact that such a slow killer as rust began to undermine your car.
Rust. Many people underestimate her. Many do not know that it is this seemingly frivolous trouble that regularly sends tens of thousands of cars to a landfill. But the problem is preventable, and it can and should be fought!
With iron-based metals, fighting oxidation can be a Sisyphean job, because even with advanced coatings and alloys developed by professional chemists and engineers, the unstable chemistry of steel in its original form means it will always rust in natural environment. However, this does not mean that your car is doomed. By understanding the process of metal oxidation and knowing the problem areas on your car body, you can extend the life of your car.
Can rust be avoided?
At the same time, untreated raw sheet steel can resist rusting for a very long time, without crumbling into its component parts for several years.
From this we can draw the first conclusion: if you buy a car (even if it is new model and you pick up the car from the passenger compartment), be sure to go over the forums and look if these car models of a particular year of manufacture rust. Otherwise, you may be very unlucky and you will end up on some batch of cars in which, for some unknown reason, steel of inadequate quality was used. As you understand, such cars will rot. Such cases are rare, but they do happen. Therefore, be vigilant.
So you became the owner or have long been the owner of the car. If you have purchased new car and expect to use it for a long period of time - from five years and above, congratulations, you have a chance to see all the stages of the development of body destruction.
Let's take a look at the three main types of rust and then discuss how it can be avoided or "cured".
Surface rust (first stage)
The first signs of a problem appear in cracks and scratches in the paint. Difficulty level: easy fix.
Rust “hunts” for structural and chemical impurities in metal alloys at the microscopic and molecular levels. Pure iron does not oxidize as aggressively as cheaper material with big amount impurities. This is easy to understand if you look at the old parts from the premium German cars 70s, 80s. Even unpainted elements, being on outdoors, in rain and snow, although they will rust over time, the penetration of oxidation will not be as deep as in the case of cars of the 90s and zero years of the 21st century.
The thing is, as you understand, that higher quality alloys were used, which helped to lay greater wear resistance in all parts of the car, including the body.
Unfortunately, iron is not particularly good material to create cars. The addition of a small amount of carbon to iron creates a steel that offers a significant improvement in flexibility, tensile strength, and panel press formability. But by definition, it adds impurities - impurities that speed up the rusting process.
The second stage (penetration into the metal structure begins)
The chemical process destroys the surface and reduces the strength of the metal.
The spread of rust deep into the steel depends on many different factors:
alloy, thickness of the part, environment (presence of snow, reagents that accelerate the decomposition process, temperature changes) and type of heat treatment of the part.
Alloying elements such as nickel and chromium can be added to prevent rust, but nothing can 100% protect a part - everything eventually corrodes.
The agent is a separate issue altogether. The rusting effect is accelerated by the presence of any kind of salt. Salts from the road and other contaminants dissolved in the water act as electrolytes. Getting to an unprotected place where a chemical reaction takes place, they significantly accelerate the exchange of molecular components.
In practice, you can say the following: dirty car rusts faster than clean. This also explains the long-standing fact why cars in countries with northern climates, where salts and chemicals are used in winter, tend to rot.
Penetrating rust (third stage)
After a long exposure to the oxidation process, the steel turns into a brittle iron oxide. Through holes are formed.
Automakers do a lot to try and prevent corrosion. A huge number of tests and entire sections of materials science are devoted to preserving the body of your car. The aluminum and magnesium components help a lot in the fight against rust. They are practically not subject to oxidation, and their safety margin will last for decades to come. However, these metals are expensive enough to be used for such a large part as a body.
Modern sheet steel comes out with a variety of protective coatings even at the stage of its production in a steel mill. On car factory to this are added additional protective coatings, including galvanizing and a thick layer of surface protection for the bottom of the car, which literally seals the body from exposure to oxygen elements and the destructive external environment.
Alas, over time, any is erased, thinner and in some places completely disappears. The metal is exposed, the process of destruction begins.
Advice: few people do this, but it is important at least once a year, after winter, to examine a cleanly washed (ideally, you need to wash the bottom) car for damage to the protective layer. In the event that a chip is found or deep scratch, which has reached the metal, it will be necessary to neutralize the damage by stopping the access of air to the damaged part of the surface.
Depending on the depth and location of damage, it is possible to use a primer for these purposes, followed by paint application (with little damage), a rust converter, with sealing the hearth from oxygen access, applying anticorrosive to the bottom if the protective layer below was damaged in several places. With average operation, its damage occurs after three years.
Vigilance and car care - that's the key long work body.
Prevention
The best advice is the most obvious: wash the car regularly to clean the body and bottom (at least once a year, after winter) from dirt and salts that lead to corrosion. Not so obvious advice - at the bottom of the doors and thresholds. If water stagnates there, it will inevitably rust.
But if rust does appear, this is not such a great problem. The fact is that rusting can be stopped at any stage.
surface rust
In most cases, surface rust forms at the site of paint breakage due to mechanical or UV damage. The first stage of rusting will not bring big problems to the body of your car. Depending on the thickness of the metal and the quality of the alloy, more than one year may pass to the third stage.
Regardless, it's best to get rid of surface rust as soon as you find it. The fix is no different from general repair LKP. We wrote a lot about how to repair other damage.
Second stage
You didn't clean up the rust in the first stage, and now the rusty bubble under the paint flaunts on the body. Rust molecules are physically larger than iron or steel molecules. As a result, rust self-propagates by expansion, affecting and destroying fresh metal. If it is not completely removed, the decay process will not stop.
When repairing a part, you need to use a rust converter, as well as a brush with hard metal bristles, sandpaper or an abrasive disc. We clean the hearth to a flat surface, then apply a primer and paint.
penetrating rust
Eventually the base metal peels off and a hole forms in its place. Now you have a big problem and you have two options. You can replace the panel (if possible), or you will have to cut out the rotten parts and ask for normal metal patches to be welded in.
It is useful to compare (German experience):
But if the frame is rusted, this means that the structural integrity of the car may be compromised. You can't fix the frame on your own. Either change to a new one, or seek advice from professionals.
