Introduction
Different extraneous sounds in the car are an alarm signal and serve as a reason to once again pay attention to him technical condition. A knock is a backlash formed in a node. It often occurs from natural wear and tear this node. Noise - from rubbing parts. Noises and knocks are very similar to each other. In addition, very often they are summed up, for example, they are faulty ball joints and there is play in the front hub bearings or steering tips. How exactly to find out from which node this knock / noise comes from?
To determine the location of noise and / or knocking, you must first determine which side it comes from, front or rear, left or right. If you have already established the approximate location of the noise, then finding it will be much easier. Observations will also help: with what the sound is synchronized and under what conditions it occurs.
At the same time, look at the rest of the paragraphs - perhaps you attributed the observed sound to the wrong section from where it is heard. This is due to the fact that some systems of the car are extended (for example, the exhaust tract). In addition, sound travels well through metal and may be heard from a different location than where it originates.
Ball joints make a thud and/or squeak. These sounds are well audible when driving over bumps and on rough roads.
Carry out diagnostics on a flat platform, overpass or inspection ditch, but in no case on a lift. Otherwise, the suspension will be loaded, and you will not be able to determine the malfunction of the ball joints. It is more convenient to work together.
To check for a problem, raise the vehicle by lower arm hydraulic or screw jack. If such a jack is not available, then you can use a regular one. Raise the car with it, and then substitute a wooden block under the lower lever and lower the car onto it. Grab the top with your left hand. inner part wheels, and the right one - for the lower outer one. Shake the wheel "on a break". The second person, putting his hand alternately on the upper and lower parts knuckle at the attachment points of the ball bearings, must determine which of them has a backlash. Replace defective support. Sometimes backlash happens in two supports at once.
Check the ball joints on the other side in the same way.
Very often you can hear a creak when the car is rocking by the front fender or bumper. This is the ball bearings creaking due to the lack of lubrication between the ball bearing and the Teflon bushing. Such a support is not dangerous yet, but, know that, it will soon require replacement.
Steering gear. Due to wear main couple worm-roller knock occurs. When turning the steering wheel to different sides sometimes a creak is heard.
Carry out diagnostics on a flat platform, overpass or inspection ditch, but in no case on a lift. Otherwise steering will be loaded, and you will not be able to determine the malfunction. Grab the steering gear with your hand and swing it up and down. If there is play and / or knock, .
The creak is eliminated liquid lubricant WD-40. Spray it on the steering shaft where it exits. engine compartment.
The pendulum does not emit any unpleasant sounds, unless it is finally running. It wears out a pair of pendulum bushings-arm axle. The pendulum is checked in the same way as the steering gear. If play is found, tighten the adjusting nut or replace the bushings or the entire arm assembly.
Steering rods and tips have a similar knock, like ball joints, and it only appears on rough roads.
To determine a malfunction in the steering rods and tips, you must be completely sure that the bipods of the steering gear and swingarm have no play.
Grab your hand closer to the tie rod end (lateral or middle). Rock it up and down. The ball pin in the hinge body is spring-loaded, and therefore, if a certain force is applied to it, it can move. But at the same time, he should not hang out freely. If there is play, replace the ball joint with a new one.
Shock absorbers usually do not annoy with their "sounds". But if they are, then they are well audible on a rough road.
Their disease is wear of rubber bushings, pillows, oil leakage, illiterate installation. Rock each side of the car and listen for knocks. At the same time, you must be sure that everything that was mentioned above, in in perfect order. Check shock absorbers. Grasp the upper and lower parts of the shock absorber alternately with your hand and shake it. You can immediately determine the wear of bushings, pillows and illiterate installation - the shock absorber will move freely or almost freely. If the bushings are worn, replace them. In case of illiterate installation, tighten the bolts and nuts of the shock absorber.
Oil leakage from the shock absorber is detected visually - smudges and dirt adhering to these places will be visible on the body. This shock absorber needs to be replaced. I remind you that shock absorbers are changed only in pairs: on the right and on the left, but the front and rear pair can be changed separately.
Brake pads sometimes whistle. When accelerating, the whistling turns into a monotonous whistle, and may disappear in the future. A grinding noise is heard when the brake pedal is pressed.
If there is a suspicion that a nasty squeak when accelerating comes from the pads, then lightly press the brake pedal. If the sound is gone, change the pads.
If a grinding sound is heard after depressing the brake pedal, and dashboard lit Exclamation point, urgently needed, and possibly brake discs if you have been driving with such a rattle for a long time.
Springs< могут издавать звук трущихся между собой metal parts car. It occurs only on bumps.
The spring may creak after replacement and / or removal-installation due to the fact that it was not put exactly in the same place. There is only one way out - to install it correctly, deploying it exactly to its original place. To do this, you will have to disassemble the suspension again.
Stabilizer roll stability emits a dull thud, which is heard very poorly on rough roads. You can determine it on the flyover.
Grasp the stabilizer in turn near each bushing and shake it up and down. If the side bushings are worn out, you can only change them, if the middle ones, you need to change the entire stabilizer (complete with bushings). The bushings wear out at a run of about 60 tons. Km.
A specific ringing tinny sound is due to the fact that the exhaust pipe of the muffler is beating against the anti-roll bar. There is a sound on the bumps. The surface of the pipe at the point of contact is shiny or even slightly crumpled. More often this happens due to the fact that the band clamp securing the intake pipe to the gearbox has broken. If the mount exhaust system normal, then the sound is eliminated by lining two metal plates 2-3 mm thick under the stabilizer brackets or by replacing the engine mounts.
With all the faults listed above, taken individually or in total, the behavior of the car on the road worsens.
Sounds from the back of the car
Rear axle tie-downs. When starting off and braking, a knock is heard due to the wear of the bushings. Or after a sharp press on the gas pedal back the car turns a little, you have to adjust the direction of the car with the steering wheel.
It is easy to determine a malfunction in the rods. Carry out diagnostics on a flyover or inspection ditch, but not on a lift. Grasp the rod with your hand and shake it. In this way, check all the rods: longitudinal and transverse. Faulty rods will have increased play or knock. Replace defective linkage.
Rear brake pads. After pressing the brake pedal, noise is heard or vibration of the entire body occurs. Very often this malfunction manifests itself in wet or humid weather. Usually this is due to a thin layer of corrosion, dirt on the pads or on the inside of the brake drums.
1. Try to drive a few hundred meters with the handbrake not fully extended - the corrosion layer will be erased and the noise will disappear.
2. Clean the pads and work surface brake drum from dirt with sandpaper.
Elliptical wear of the drums is also possible - then only replacement or turning will help.
Transmission sounds
External CV joints: when they are faulty, then when turning, clicks and rolling of balls are clearly audible.
Internal CV joints usually do not cause trouble. But if they fail, then the symptoms are similar to external CV joints. Grasp the drive shaft with your hand. Shake it and try to rotate around its axis. Increased backlash indicates a malfunction of the CV joint. Such CV joints will not last long. It is better to replace them immediately.
Half shafts: with increasing speed, the rumble increases. The axle shaft itself does not fail, but it has weakness- axle bearing. You can check its performance in the same way as the front wheel bearings. Replace the faulty axle shaft together with the bearing or repress the bearing.
Front and rear axles. Noise from them occurs when driving at speeds of 40-80 km / h. Sounds good under load or when letting off the gas.
How to determine which gearbox is faulty? Search is conveniently carried out on a viewing ditch.
Test number 1. Rotate the cardan shafts clockwise and counterclockwise one by one by hand. If any of the shafts rotates by more than 15-20 degrees, then the gearbox to which this cardan shaft attached.
Test number 2. Raise the front left or right side car. Spin the wheel quickly. Lower the car. Now lift the back left or right side. Spin the wheel quickly. Compare the noise level from the front and rear gear. The one that makes the loudest noise is defective.
Flanges RPM, RZM, RK and KPP. Due to production in spline connections emit deaf metallic knock at the start of the movement. It is possible to determine a faulty flange only after removing the cardan shaft. Turn the flange clockwise and counterclockwise with high speed. If there is a backlash, then there can be two reasons:
1. Flange nut loose.
2. Development in splined joints.
In both cases, remove the flange and check its condition. If there is wear, replace the flange, transfer case shafts, or gearbox drive gear, whichever is worn. If the nut is not tightened, tighten it to the required torque.
Flange dirt rings emit a slight metallic ring. It is only audible when the car is moving. high speeds. You can diagnose it on a flyover, a lift, or simply crawl under a car on a flat area. By hand, try to turn all the dirt rings (6 pieces in total). You can easily find a ring torn from the flange: it will easily turn or just hang on the flange. Two ways to troubleshoot:
1. Use a wire brush to remove dirt from the ring and flange. Degrease both parts with gasoline. Apply cold welding in a circle at the point of contact of the parts and let it harden.
2. Using electric welding, attach the dirt ring to the flange at 2-4 points.
cardan shafts. A loud metallic click at the beginning of the movement or a creak in time with the rotation of the shafts indicates a malfunction of the crosses. Finding a faulty cross is easy. Grab the shaft with one hand and the yoke flange with the other. While firmly holding the shaft from turning, try turning the fork flange around its axis, clockwise and counterclockwise. A knock or play will indicate a malfunction of one or another cross. VAZ-21213 has 4 of them, VAZ-2121 has 5 pcs. Replace defective cross and squirt.
Noise in the checkpoint area when running on Idling the engine in most cases comes from the bearing input shaft Gearbox, less often - from intermediate shaft bearings or gears.
In order to verify this, press the clutch pedal. If the noise stopped, then its source, most likely, was the input shaft bearing. The exact cause of the noise will be established only by opening the checkpoint.
The release bearing is rarely a problem. But if the noise or rattle appears when you press the clutch pedal and stops after releasing it, then it's time to change the release bearing. Another specific sound - a whistle, the tone of which sometimes changes to an octave (twice the frequency) - indicates that the bearing itself has become unstuck from its base. This was observed in release bearings QH company. You can ride, but the sound is not very pleasant.
Sounds from the engine bay
A piercing squeal after starting the engine or with a sharp increase in speed indicates poor tension or stretching of the alternator belt.
Tighten the belt (as indicated in the section About the generator), the whistle should stop. If it does not stop or after a while it whistles again or the belt can no longer be tightened, replace it.
At idle, a rumble and / or a thin whistle is heard from the front of the engine compartment - this can be either from the pump or from the generator.
Challenge #1. Take a long wooden block or a thin hose and bring it with one end alternately to the pump and the generator, and attach it to your ear with the other (insert the hose into your ear). The increased noise you hear will indicate a pump or alternator malfunction.
Test #2. Grab one of the fan blades with your hand (only not an additional electric one :-)) and shake it. Increased play will indicate a malfunction of the pump, or rather its bearing. If, moreover, before that you often had to add antifreeze and smudges are visible on the pump, then, definitely, it must be replaced.
Challenge #3. Remove the alternator belt. Turn the pump pulley sharply by hand, and then the alternator pulley. The increased noise you hear will indicate a pump or alternator malfunction.
Noises of the gas distribution mechanism in the background common work engines sound very good.
Chain noise - a chirring-clapping sound is clearly audible if the chain tension is insufficient. As the engine speed increases, the noise disappears, and when the gas is released, it reappears.
Intake knock or exhaust valves heard at regular intervals. Its frequency is less than the frequency of any other knock in the engine, because the valves are driven by a camshaft whose rotational speed is half that of the crankshaft.
The knock of the main bearings of the crankshaft is usually a dull metallic tone. It is detected upon sudden opening. throttle valves at idle. Its frequency increases with increasing crankshaft speed. Excessive axial clearance of the crankshaft causes a knock that is sharper and at irregular intervals, especially noticeable with a smooth increase and decrease in the crankshaft speed.
Knock connecting rod bearings cutting. It is well audible with a sharp opening of the throttle. If the sound is emitted by one of the necks, then the place of the knock is easy to determine by turning off the spark plugs in turn.
The knock of the pistons is not sonorous, but muffled, caused by the beating of the piston in the cylinder. It is best heard at low crankshaft speed and under load. Addendum: the knock of pistons is similar to the ringing of bells (source of information is Ross Tweg's book "Repair of Zhiguli engines").
A loud chirping sound with a sharp opening of the throttle valves indicates too early ignition or a malfunction of the ignition distributor. Adjust the UOZ and / or check the ignition distributor on the stand. For Muscovites: this can be done in the magician. "Cars" in UP, in the pavilion a little to the left of the center of the first floor.
Exhaust system. If it is faulty, then its sound cannot be confused with any other.
If a part of the exhaust system malfunctions, it is better to change the entire assembly with clamps and gaskets.
I kindly ask readers to write to me as clearly as possible about those sound defects that you have ever heard on your car. Your letters will become the basis for the continuation and replenishment of the article.
Often, when the car is moving, you can hear extraneous sounds - noise, knocking, rattle. As a rule, this is a sign of a problem with a node or system. Also, do not forget about the noises emitted by weakly fixed interior elements. During the operation of the car, it is necessary to constantly listen to extraneous sounds so as not to start the problem and diagnose possible malfunctions in time.
Usually sources of extraneous sounds are the suspension, steering, brake system, transmission and exhaust system.
Suspension malfunction sounds
The most difficult node to determine "by ear" a malfunction is the suspension. Let's talk about "auditory" suspension diagnostics using the example of the popular McPherson today. Knocking can signal wear on the silent blocks of levers, ball joints or tie rod ends. If these malfunctions occur, they violate the suspension geometry and affect the stability and safety of the machine.
Often the cause of knocking can be worn struts and bushings of the anti-roll bar. It also worsens the handling of the car.
Less often, a shock absorber or its top support. Usually paired with a pendant of this type install rack and pinion steering. It can also make a knock. The reason is bushing wear. It should be noted that you can ride with this (and for quite a long time), but still better malfunction eliminate.
If the machine has a worm gear steering, the bearings of the pendulum arm and bipod shafts can be a source of knocking in it. But in this case this leads to an increase in play in the steering mechanism, and this is more dangerous than with a rack.
If the car's suspension is multi-link, it accordingly has a lot of silent blocks, which, when worn, make extraneous sounds. Ball joints can also make noise.
almost rare, torsion bar suspensions"sound" bad bearings torsion bars. It sounds like noise from worn silent blocks. Rear suspension its "sound" is no different from the front end. Silent blocks, shock absorbers or their bushings can also knock there. Also sometimes there is a knock due to wear of the bushing of the rear beam.
Sounds of bad brakes
In this case, the handbrake adjustment mechanism installed in the rear brake mechanisms. This indicates the need to replace the pads or at least adjust them.
Sometimes it happens that extraneous sounds are emitted by pads or calipers of disc mechanisms. This is a sign of the emerging mobility of the pads due to the weakening of their springs.
Also, a torn-off pad can “sound” brake pad. To identify this malfunction, we advise you to drive through the garage pit with slightly braked wheels. The pad pressed against the disc will not make noise.
Note that some suspicious sounds may occur only in special driving conditions:
- Worn shock absorber rod bushings can knock only when starting to move or turning to one side, and in other conditions it is quite normal to work.
- Only when driving over bumps in a turn can the ball joints make noise. Note that the upper ball joints most often make noise in small pits, and the lower ones in large ones.
- When descending, if there are pits along the way, the front springs can remind you of themselves. Their coils touch each other and make a characteristic sound.
— U front wheel drive vehicles external CV joint makes noise when the wheels are turned, and the inner one - on a straight line.
- At the beginning of the movement, they can “crunch” with ball and cardan joints transmission shafts, as well as thumping with faulty motor and gearbox cushions. However, the latter is typical for all machines.
Finally, we note that if you decide to identify the cause of extraneous noise in the car, you need to remove all things that can rattle from the glove compartment, shelves, trunk and other places. This primarily applies to tools that are not packed in a box, CDs, fire extinguishers, spray cans and other household items. Note that it is not necessary to remove all things from the car; you can cover the trunk and glove compartment with soft thick material (foam rubber or porous rubber) to eliminate the noise of their contents.
Most often, extraneous sounds of malfunctions sin, the resource of which has been significantly depleted.
And yet, you should not completely rely on your own hearing. "Diagnosis" must be confirmed by stopping at the service station.
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Read in the article examples of malfunctioning sounds hard drive and how to identify them. Clicking or rustling sounds, vibration or whistling that were not there before. A working hard drive is a fairly quiet device that can only be reminded of itself by a soft click while accessing it or turning on / off the computer. But if, over time, the sounds of clicking or rustling, as well as vibration or whistling that were not heard before, are heard from the hard drive, then such HDD possibly out of order.
western digital
Muffled sound of faulty hard disk heads.
Failed disk heads slowly click several times, after which the rotation of the disk slows down.
Slowdown of the rotation of the hard disk platters after the production of several clicking sounds by the failed heads.
A hard drive with a stuck spindle cannot spin up.
Clicking sounds from a hard drive with a failed preamp chip.
A disc with unstable heads that stops after a few clicks.
A laptop hard drive with a stuck spindle that is trying to spin up, making a siren-like sound.
A computer hard drive cannot spin up due to bad bearings.
Seagate
Rustling and clicking sounds that a disk with inoperable heads makes.
Sounds that a disk with damaged heads makes during startup (platform spin-up).
Clicking faulty laptop hard drive heads.
A disc with a stuck spindle is trying to spin up.
The boring sound of broken disk heads.
Maxtor
A computer hard drive with a non-working or broken head unit.
Clicks of inoperable heads.
The sound that a disc with a jammed spindle makes.
Samsung
A fast clicking sound indicates the failure of the hard drive heads.
The same as with the previous disc.
The sound of damaged hard disk heads.
A worn out computer disk that makes a scratching sound when accessing bad sectors.
Hitachi/IBM
The hard drive of a laptop with damaged heads clicks on startup, after which it beeps.
A worn out computer disk that makes a scratching sound when accessing an area with bad sectors.
A disc with worn platters and a head unit makes wheezing and howling sounds.
The whirring sound of a laptop drive with a stuck spindle trying to spin up.
Toshiba
The sound of failed laptop hard drive bearings.
The sound of worn laptop hard drive bearings.
The sound of wedged bearings on a laptop hard drive.
Fujitsu
Worn laptop hard drive heads.
Faulty laptop hard drive heads.
The sound of worn out plates of a computer hard drive.
Quantum
Faulty head unit.
What to do if the hard drive starts making extraneous sounds
- First of all, make sure that the hard drive is the source of the emitted sound.
- After you make sure that it is the hard drive that is making the sounds that bother you, run the hard drive diagnostic utility. You can use both those supplied by manufacturers with the device, and from third party manufacturers. Just keep in mind that in best case The diagnostic utility will detect and limit the use of bad sectors of the hard disk, which may be the cause of incorrect or unstable work disk. If there are mechanical damage or wear of the hard drive - it is impossible to fix them programmatically.
- If nothing has changed in the operation of the disk after using the diagnostic software, it is recommended to immediately create a copy of the data of such a hard disk or its image for further restoration.
How to create an image of a failed or damaged disk using Hetman Partition Recovery. - If, as a result of using a diagnostic or repair software the sounds of the hard disk have partially or completely disappeared, then there may be bad sectors on it. In this case, it is still recommended to create a backup of all data on the hard disk and think about replacing it, since bad sectors may continue to appear on the disk and this will eventually lead to data loss or failure.
Other Sounds Your Computer Can Make
The hard drive is not the only device in the computer that is capable of making sound. It can also be a power supply, cooler, CD / DVD drive, or other devices connected to it. SSD drives don't make any sound because they don't have moving parts. Therefore, before taking any action, it is important to correctly identify the source of the sound.
If the computer is performing some complex tasks or running a resource-intensive game, it will be normal if the computer starts to work louder - the computer coolers will spin faster to cool it down. Sometimes, a dirty or broken cooler makes more noise than other devices.
Sounds like an art. Only experienced and professional automotive doctors have this gift. In one service, they may make a mistake in the diagnosis due to lack of experience, and in another, they will deliberately deceive in order to divorce the client for a major overhaul.
With any extraneous noise of the motor (especially when knocking or roaring), thoughtful diagnostics are necessary. However, the most common sounds have their own natural reasons, which even an ordinary car owner can understand. This will help approximately and protect yourself from fraud in the service.
Alas, ear diagnostics are mostly applicable to gasoline units. Due to the natural noise of operation, it is extremely difficult to hear and identify extraneous sounds.
Attachment drive
The classic whistling sound of a worn out harness is not that simple. It manifests itself more strongly when it is cold, until it warms up. However, often the nature of the noise is different - a hum or metallic sounds are possible. And the circle of suspects is expanding significantly: from tired rollers to deformation of one of the pulleys (due to which it periodically touches the engine cover) or wedging of the pressure plate of the air conditioning compressor clutch.
Calculating whether the belt is whistling is very simple. It is enough to spray it with a “weed” or similar universal lubricant while the motor is running. If the extraneous noise has disappeared completely or significantly subsided, everything is clear with its source. The belt is threatened not only with natural wear in the form of cracks - it also inevitably tans. When the elasticity of the belt is partially restored, so the whistles come to naught. Small pebbles that fall into the belt streams and come into contact with the pulleys are sometimes to blame for the occurrence of metallic sounds.
The serviceability of the rollers in most cases can be checked by removing the belt and evaluating their play. It is much less necessary to use a stethoscope. Sometimes roller bearings hum or rumble without noticeable play.
A water pump or generator can bring the owner to a heart attack. When the bearings wear out, they rattle like steel balls dangling in a metal bucket. At the same time, their pulleys do not always have a noticeable backlash, and the “pump” also has a visible leak. Without a stethoscope, these culprits can first be identified by a simple trick: you need to remove the hinged belt and start the engine. Such a short-term check is not dangerous for the engine. Of course, the described technique is applicable only to motors with chain drive Timing when the water pump is driven by a hinged belt. Otherwise, you cannot check the “pump” in this way.
Timing drive
A rumble in the first seconds after starting a cold engine, as if a bucket of bolts were shaken, suggests that either the timing chain tensioner or the worn clutch of the valve timing mechanism is to blame. Such a characteristic sound is difficult to confuse with something.
In phase shifters breaks over time internal elements, and they rumble until the cavities are filled.
In addition to natural wear and tear, problems with the timing chain tensioner may be related to its design. The tensioner works by supplying pressurized oil, and many tensioners do not have a check valve. For this reason, after the engine is stopped, in some cases, oil flows freely from the housing, and the chain sags. After starting the engine, it takes some time to recover operating pressure tensioner fluid.
If the chain is stretched, it makes noise all the time. In this case, a phase mismatch occurs, which turns into a harder operation of the motor - up to the point that gasoline unit may sound like a diesel. It is important to understand that even with a slight stretch of the chain, even before the appearance of light tapping, modern motors begin to lose dynamics and start up unstably during cold starts.
valve mechanism
Incorrect valve clearances cause a distinct ringing sound. Its frequency increases with increasing engine speed. The temperature of the engine does not affect the nature of the sound.
An almost identical knock is emitted by worn hydraulic lifters. However, for some engines, noise in the first seconds after a cold start is normal: it takes some time to fill them with oil. A constant knock indicates the failure of the hydraulic pushers: the internal valves stop holding oil, the pressure inside the compensator drops and the gap in the valve mechanism increases - this causes a knock.
The life expectancy of compensators directly depends on the purity of the oil (read:) and its pressure.
Cylinder piston group
Knock piston-cylinder group associated with excessive clearances resulting from wear of parts. It resembles the sound that occurs due to hydraulic lifters or valves, only more muffled. Depending on the size of the gaps, the knock of the pistons may be constant or disappear after the engine warms up.
A temporary knock, which many car owners sometimes do not even hear, often occurs due to local overheating of cylinders and pistons. WITH modern motors this can happen even if there was no general overheating with boiling over. Due to the local increase in temperature, the piston skirt leads, it loses its taper, the gap between it and the cylinder wall increases - as a result, when it is transferred to top dead point there is a knock. With engine warm thermal gaps decrease and extraneous noise disappears - which practically does not occur with serious cylinder wear.
In case of piston deformation, you can get rid of little blood, replacing only the actual pistons. But the constant knock of the pistons indicates excessive clearances, and here an overhaul of the engine is inevitable.
Inserts
Critical wear of the connecting rod and main bearings of the crankshaft causes a loud roar - as if hammering on steel with a hammer. Its frequency increases with increasing speed and does not depend on operating temperature engine. The noise is especially pronounced under load. The easiest way to simulate this on cars with is by conducting a stall test (stall-test): while holding the brake pedal so that the car does not move, the transmission selector must be moved to the “drive” position and briefly increased to medium engine speeds - extraneous noise will be heard clearly.
Flaps in the intake manifold
Many servicemen and car owners are confused by the sound of dampers. On idling motor, this noise is very similar to that emitted by dead hydraulic lifters. But under load, the sound takes on a clear "plastic" tone. This is how the damper axis makes noise, which eventually wears out in seats and starts to vibrate.
Oscillations of the killed axis are clearly audible with a stethoscope. An axle malfunction can also be caught without a “device”, if you can get to its end, coming out of the manifold, or to the thrust from the drive. By slightly pressing the “tail”, for example, with a screwdriver, you will temporarily eliminate vibration - and the noise will disappear. By the way, do not rush to change an expensive pipeline assembly: a faulty part can be repaired.
We thank Inomotor LLC (Moscow) for their help in preparing the material.
Malfunctions of the engine can always be prevented by periodically checking its operation and correcting problems in a timely manner. In order to identify knocks in the engine and the reasons that cause them, you first need to warm up the engine to 80-85 C, and then listen to it with a phonendoscope, it is by the nature of the knock or noise in the engine that a malfunction can be identified. The whole process self diagnosis car engine can be divided into several stages.
It is better to see once than to hear a hundred times and it is better to hear once than to describe a sound a hundred times... First, make sure that the sound that alarmed you comes from the engine, and not from other parts and parts of the car. Can vibrate and knock against each other suspension parts, parts exhaust system, engine mounting parts, attachment parts, crankcase parts, etc. Here are some tips. By pressing the clutch pedal, you will almost completely eliminate the sounds emitted by the gearbox and transmission (clutch). By shaking the engine (the engine is attached to the body or frame on elastic cushions and has some mobility), you can detect sounds coming from the engine mount, crankcase protection, exhaust system, etc. Whistling or buzzing may indicate a malfunction of the generator, camshaft drive or water pump. If the data sound signals turn into a squeal, problems can be hidden in the alternator belt slipping, freezing or jamming of the water pump, lack of lubrication in the alternator bearings and even their jamming. By removing the alternator belt, you can eliminate these sounds made by the alternator and pump. So before you "sin" on the engine, listen carefully to its "environment".
1 - Loud knocking sounds coming from the top of the engine, usually coming from valve mechanism. Most likely, this is a signal that valve adjustment is required, or increased wear valve mechanism, or a breakdown of one of the elements of this mechanism. When the engine picks up speed, and the knock begins to suddenly increase, there may be several reasons, for example, valve clearances are increased, rocker arms are worn out or valve lifters are bent, tappets or camshafts are worn out, a faulty valve or its spring.
2 - Rustling metallic sounds that change their character with changes in engine speed, coming from the front of it. Most likely, this sound is emitted by a poorly tensioned chain, and possibly fragments of a chain damper already torn off by a loose chain. From the side of the timing belt (gas distribution mechanism), there are also enough different sounds - touching the protective casing of the moving parts of the engine, tapping the weakened belt on the casing when the engine speed changes, the rustling of the tensioner roller and various sounds made by the pump.
3 - Medium and low tone sounds with a frequency noticeably less than valve sounds coming from the middle and lower parts of the engine and changing or appearing with increasing speed. These sounds are more "unpleasant", because they can talk about serious problems with engine - increased wear cylinder-piston group, neck wear crankshaft and liners. Wear on the connecting rod bearings or main bearings is indicated by a loud knock at idle and running speeds, at which the oil pressure light may flash. Worn main bearings cause a rattling noise in the engine under load. The clanking of metal when shifting gears can create a loose flywheel. These sounds can be harbingers overhaul engine. There is another specific sound in, reminiscent of grunting, this is how the drive roller sounds auxiliary units (oil pump and distributor). If the oil pressure rises too slowly, then a knock or even a rumble is heard when starting a cold engine. Causes lie in low oil levels, or in wear of the oil pump, main bearings or failure safety valve. The same sound signals accompany the operation of the engine with the wrong oil or oil filter.
4 - A metallic ringing knock that appears when the car accelerates or parked car with a sharp increase in engine speed. These are detonation noises. Detonation - explosion combustible mixture in the combustion chamber, and not its smooth (relative to the explosion) combustion from ignition by a spark plug spark. Detonation appears on different reasons, basic is too early ignition, low-quality gasoline, lean fuel mixture, a decrease in the volume of the combustion chamber due to the formation of a large number soot, engine overheating, wrong type of candles, malfunction of the vacuum corrector of the breaker-distributor. In fact, the main sound we hear is made by the pistons of the engine, taking on the shock wave from the explosions. fuel mixture in combustion chambers. Detonation is a very harmful phenomenon, prolonged driving with such sounds leads to the destruction of the engine, in the first place piston rings, baffles between the grooves on the pistons, etc.
