An important part of the chassis of the car is the wheel hub. For its free rotation on the axis, a bearing is placed in it. During operation, it wears out and it becomes necessary to replace the wheel bearing. A signal that the wheel bearing is worn out can be a crunch, vibration and deviation of the car from the course when driving in a straight line.
Why a bearing in a hub
A rim or wheel rim is attached to the hub flange. It also installs elements of the brake system. If the wheels attached to the hub are driving, it acts as part of the car transmission. The front swivel wheel hub is a steering element. The diameter of the hub is much larger than that of its inner hole, where the bearing is pressed. Its length usually exceeds the diameter of this hole.
The high strength and design of the hub does not require frequent replacement. At the same time, the replacement of the wheel bearing pressed into it should be done more often. This part holds together with other similar bearings the weight of the machine, ensuring the rotation of the wheels. In the hubs of driven axles that do not experience heavy loads, tapered single-row bearings are usually used. For the leading ones, tapered bearings with two rows are used, which can withstand twice the load than single row ones.
Wheel bearings have a closed design, which means that they can be used until they are almost completely worn out. They do not need to be lubricated. However, the timely replacement of the wheel bearing is necessary, first of all, because it provides safe movement, under the influence of serious radial and lateral loads.
When to change a bearing
The wheel bearing directly affects the vehicle's ability to move confidently on the road without endangering people in and outside the car. If at least one of these bearings fails, there is a risk of uncontrollability of the car and an emergency. In order to understand in time whether a wheel bearing needs to be replaced, you should shake each wheel with both hands every couple of weeks to detect play or extraneous sounds.
Sure signs that the wheel bearing needs to be replaced are:
- identification of a noticeable backlash in the wheel when it sways in different planes;
- the appearance during the movement of a monotonous hum emanating from the wheel;
- howling or noise that disappears when turning sharply;
- hot to the touch hub or its cap.
The reasons for such phenomena may be loss of lubrication due to high temperatures, washing out if the car often overcomes water obstacles. Fine sand and dust can get into the bearing housing and have an abrasive effect.
In any case, it is worth thinking about how to change the wheel bearing. After all, its wear also affects the beating of the steering wheel when the car is moving. Usually this procedure is carried out after 110-130 thousand km. run. However, this figure may vary depending on the operating conditions of the machine and its driving style. It is believed that every fourth car with a mileage of over a hundred thousand kilometers requires special attention to the condition of such bearings. In order to prevent problems with them, it should be a rule for car owners to regularly diagnose wheel bearings on their own or using the services of a car service.
At the same time, it is important to remember that attempts to repair it yourself or how to replace the hub bearing cheaper will not lead to anything good, since it cannot be repaired. When it fails, it just needs to be replaced.
What you need to replace a wheel bearing
To replace the wheel bearing with your own hands, you need to be extremely careful and do not overestimate your strength. In STO conditions, this is much easier and faster to do. Most of these enterprises employ experienced craftsmen who use professional tools to knock the bearing out of the hub.
Having decided to carry out the work on your own, it is necessary to answer the question of how to remove the wheel bearing and how to replace it with a new one.
To do this, you need to prepare:
- a new bearing, preferably of European production, retaining rings and a hub nut;
- hub diagram and detailed instructions for the work;
- a repair room with a vice and good lighting of the repaired unit;
- special tool for removing the bearing;
- a set of keys and heads with a collar;
- round-nose pliers, which may be needed to remove the retaining ring;
- lubricant (lithol);
- a piece of pipe up to a meter long as a lever.
Before starting work, you should consider in detail how best to remove the wheel bearing. When doing this for the first time, it is better to invite an assistant. The wheel bearing puller deserves special attention in preparation. With it, you can carefully remove the bearing without damaging the wheel and other parts of the machine. It is better to familiarize yourself with its device and principle of operation in advance. Typically, such a wheel bearing puller has a fairly simple device.
It is based on a metal rod and two or three metal paws connected to it. Their ends are bent inward. The paws are easy to move along the rod for easy grip. They can be rotated to remove the bearing or other parts. Using the clamps included in the kit, a damaged bearing can be removed more easily. To remove sticky bearings at the service station, both a mechanical and a hydraulic puller can be used to remove the wheel bearing. Working with a bearing puller requires care and accuracy. Here, a sledgehammer and a drift are unacceptable, because. the seat on the hub may be damaged.
Replacing the front wheel bearing
When deciding how to replace the front wheel bearing, you should consider its location. After all, it is the front suspension that is the main part that affects the handling of the car. Therefore, it is better to do this work using a puller that helps to remove such a bearing without any problems. First of all, you need to fix the car in a position convenient for work. Put in first gear and place stops under the wheels, tighten the handbrake.
Replacing a front wheel bearing requires careful preparation of the work area. You should carefully examine the parts that you have to deal with, figure out how best to remove the bearing, and prepare the necessary tools. It should be taken into account that two bearings can be installed on the front hubs of the driving wheels.
To replace the hub bearing on the front wheel, you must:
- Using a screwdriver, remove the bearing cap from the front wheel and unlock and loosen the hub nut.
- Hang the wheel.
- Tie the caliper to the suspension part to prevent it from hanging on the front brake hose. After that, wring it out with a screwdriver and remove it from the steering knuckle.
- Remove the brake disc bolts from the hub and remove.
- Use a screwdriver to pry off the retaining ring and remove.
- Using a puller, press out the wheel bearing.
- Inspect the bearing seat, clean it from corrosion and dirt, old grease, apply new grease.
- The new bearing, without allowing it to be warped, is pressed into the hub using a puller.
- Replace retaining ring.
- Secure the bearing to the axle with a thrust washer and nut.
- Tighten the nut to adjust the rotation of the wheel to eliminate play.
After completing the work, make a test drive to check for noise in the bearing. After that, once again check the presence of play in the steering. There are other ways to replace the front wheel bearing. The knocking method can be used by cutting a pipe of a suitable diameter, heating the hub, etc. They require attention and care.
Experienced car mechanics know how to replace a rear wheel bearing. This procedure is much easier than when replacing the front. The hubs of these bearings on the rear independent suspension are almost the same as the front ones. The only difference is the lack of a steering knuckle. The type of bearing may vary depending on the machine model.
Replacing the rear wheel bearing
Before replacing the bearing on the rear hub, you must, as usual, remove the wheel and brake drum, unscrew the hub nut. Brake pads can not be touched. After removing the hub using a puller, remove the bearing from the seat. The replacement of the rear wheel bearing is carried out after a careful examination of the hole in which it was located, cleaning it, and removing possible burrs.
The hub must be cleaned of dust and dirt, old grease. The rear wheel bearing should only be replaced after these procedures have been completed and the bearing seat has been lubricated with lithol. To do this, use a puller to press the bearing to the stop and install the retaining ring. Mount the entire assembly in reverse order. Fill the bearing seat generously with grease. Close it with a plug planted on the sealant.
Replacing wheel bearings on different vehicles may vary. Modern vehicles may be equipped with various easily damaged electronic devices that must be removed when replacing a bearing. Therefore, if you are not a highly qualified car mechanic, it is better to entrust this work to car service masters.
It is also worth doing the collapse of the convergence after replacing the wheel bearing. The set camber will improve the car's road holding on turns and straight lines, remove vibration, as well as reduce tire wear and fuel consumption. Vibration can also occur due to a crookedly inserted bearing. To eliminate it, you need to knock out the bearing again and check the tightness of the wheel nuts.
Sometimes, before the upcoming trip, passengers have to hear such expressions “the main thing is that the wheels do not fly off”, but in fact no one puts a serious meaning into these words, but in vain.
This may well happen! Poor fasteners and worn parts do not have the best effect on ensuring safe movement, so it is very important to identify and fix the problem in time, even if, at first glance, it seems insignificant. So, for example, many drivers do not treat wheel bearing diagnostics with due responsibility, despite the fact that this particular part is an important element of the rotating mechanism of an automobile wheel. About the characteristic signs of a broken hub and how to replace it, we will tell you in today's article.
1. How can I find out about problems in the hub?
The hub is an important part of any vehicle. It has a hole created to allow it to fit on an axle or shaft, and the main purpose of this part is to transmit torque from the crankshaft to the wheel, due to which the latter starts to rotate and the car starts to move. Along with the hub, an equally important element of the chassis assembly is the hub bearing, presented in the form of a double-row ball or single-row roller bearing. Together they are aimed at maintaining safety measures in the process of driving a car, so it is clear that the failure of any of their parts cannot guarantee this.
Today, the rear wheel hubs of any car are subjected to significant vertical and axial loads, and on vehicles with rear or four-wheel drive, a lot of torque is added to this.
Unconsciously, the owner of the car himself in the process of replacing wheels can contribute to the rapid wear of the hub bearing. When tightening the fastening bolts, you can not calculate the force and break them, but this does not mean at all that you should not fix the rim well. In this case, it is important to find a "golden mean" and then you do not have to think about the possible consequences. To tighten the bolts, it is best to use an electric wrench, as it better "feels" the limit of permissible force.
Affects the rapid wear of the bearing assembly (rear wheel) and moisture with dust that enters it from the road. Penetrating into the hub, the dust works as an abrasive substance, gradually squeezing out the lubricant through the sealing parts, as a result of which the hub bearing is destroyed by heat.
It is not difficult to notice the need to replace the wheel bearing, this will be reported to you by a characteristic knock coming from the rear of the body, which intensifies when driving on rough roads or when hitting bumps and pits. If the car is moving on a flat surface, there is a hum and, although it is not noticeable, the brake drum is very hot. Also, when turning the steering wheel, uncharacteristic braking is quite often noticeable - another sure sign of a bearing malfunction.
Usually, to determine the cause of a bearing failure, only a visual inspection is not enough, the condition of neighboring parts, the amount (quality) of lubricant and the conditions of use of the vehicle should also be taken into account.
Among the main factors affecting the failure of the rear hub bearing, there are:
Reducing the resource of parts due to long-term operation in extreme conditions (the average service life of this type of bearing is calculated at about 1,000,000 km, which in reality often does not correspond to this indicator);
Unreliability of lubricants: their excess (lack) or poor quality (70% of cases);
Contamination, when moisture or solid particles of various debris get inside the part (18% of cases);
Incorrect wheel mounting: incorrect adjustment, use of excessive force, overtightening of the hub, overheating, inaccurate clearance, etc. To avoid costly breakdowns and to take precautions, manufacturers recommend checking wheel bearings every time you change brake pads, regardless of the age of the vehicle.
2. Check if the rear wheel hub bearing needs to be replaced
Most often, there are only two reasons for the failure of the rear wheel hub bearing: the poor quality of the road surface (in some places it is generally difficult to call it expensive) and the poor quality of the materials of the part itself. In these cases, when signaling signs of the need to replace the rear hub appear, it is worth it. This process is simple, so you can do it yourself, at home. But before starting work, you should know for sure whether the whole thing is a faulty bearing, or perhaps there is another reason.
To do this, you will have to use a jack and raise the rear axle. After that, the wheel, in which the rumble is heard, is rotated and swayed to check the play. If it is detected, and when performing rotational movements, a dull tapping or crunching is heard, the bearing should be changed immediately, since falling apart during the movement of the car, it can damage the rest of the hub system.
One of the criteria for success when replacing a rear wheel hub bearing is the quality of the new part. All those who like to buy "cheaper" should remember the saying "The miser pays twice." Demanding from a cheap and low-quality bearing for many years of good service is definitely not worth it, and it is quite possible that you will soon have to make a similar purchase again (God forbid, that only this part).
3. Step by step instructions for replacing the rear hub bearing
At the preliminary stage of the replacement, it is necessary to prepare the appropriate tools. It includes: a jack, a set of screwdrivers, a wheel wrench, a hub nut puller, lithol, a pry bar and a chisel (the latter may not be useful, but it is better to have it on hand).
The immediate replacement phase includes the following points:
Having put the car in first gear, use a jack (lift) to raise its rear part and unscrew the mounting bolts, remove the desired wheel from the hub (in the case of using a jack, so that the car does not roll in front, special supports called “boots” should be placed under the front wheels »);
Having unscrewed the guide pins, they remove the brake drum (although they usually just knock it down), followed by the brake pads;
The hub fastening nut is unscrewed with a special puller (before that, the plug is removed from it), and the hub itself is knocked off the trunnion. It must be removed together with the bearing ring, and if this did not work out, then this part is dismantled with a chisel and a mount during gouging and pulling out. This process is quite lengthy, so be patient;
pressing out the old bearing. To do this, use special tongs to remove the retaining ring, and then knock down the metal boot. If, in the course of the “spiritual” work of the hammer and chisel, the edges of the hub were badly beaten off, then in addition to a new bearing, it is worth purchasing a new hub, so the further proper operation of the “crippled” is in doubt;
A new (or old) hub is lubricated with lithol and a replaced bearing is pressed into it using a special puller. Notice! It is very undesirable to hammer it with a hammer, in order to avoid damage.
The anther and retaining ring are installed in their original place;
The hub is put back on the trunnion, while tapping a little on the inner ring of the bearing, after which the trunnion is tightened, and its sides are jammed as best as possible;
Ultimately, the brake pads, drum, and finally the wheel itself are installed in their places. There are also a number of recommendations for obtaining the optimal result of the work:
To avoid damage to the rear hub bearing seat, use only professional pullers specially designed for this, taking into account the desired cage diameter.
Various types of presses are used to improve the process of installing a new bearing and seal. It is highly discouraged to use the impact method of pressing new parts (for example, with a hammer). This can damage the stuffing box seal and it will begin to leak lubricant, and will also create microcracks in the bearing cage, due to which it will heat up more and, accordingly, will fail faster.
The rear hub assembly should be assembled in the reverse order, after which, by bleeding, air is removed from the brake system and the parking brake is adjusted.
On some models, the rear hub bearing can only be replaced with the hub.
It is better to immediately change the wheel bearings of both rear wheels, since they are subject to the same load and wear out in the same way.
No vehicle component is subjected to such a load as the chassis. Hence the large number of faults. A good example of this is the rear wheel bearing. According to the plan and calculations of the designers, it must serve regularly for at least 100,000 km. run. But domestic roads and improper operation make their own adjustments. Very often the bearing fails without having served even half of the resource.
In this case, you can not pull with a replacement. It's not even that a bad bearing will cause an even more serious malfunction. In this case, we are talking about security. No need to think that such complex repairs can only be done in a car service. It is quite possible to replace the rear wheel hub bearing yourself.
Consider how to check the rear wheel hub bearing. Unlike many others, this fault can be localized with almost 100% accuracy. And by virtue of this, it is not only experienced, but also novice motorists, if you know the characteristic signs. The main ones are:
- Extraneous noise while driving. It is often mistakenly confused with the "howl" of the box, but in this case the sound does not disappear even when switching to neutral.
- An unpleasant sound is especially noticeable in the back seat, from the side of the faulty wheel;
- When cornering, a clear braking of the faulty side is felt, and in especially severe cases, clicks are heard;
- Wheel heating while driving.
All these are indirect symptoms, upon hearing which the motorist should be alert and conduct a more detailed check. To do this, using a jack, hang a supposedly faulty wheel. Now you need to unroll it well.
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A rumble is heard - bad, but not yet fatal. Grasping the wheel with your hands from above and below, you need to shake it vertically. If there is play - the bearing is in a landfill.
What is it coming from? Surprisingly, only a third of the bearings "die" from the natural wear of metal parts. The remaining two-thirds are due to the following reasons:
- Manufacturing defects;
- Severe operating conditions. For example, constant driving on country roads at high speed;
- Lack of timely service. As a rule, lack of lubrication and dust and dirt on the bearing;
In addition, there is another reason - incorrect installation during a previous repair. However, this can be easily avoided if, before self-replacing the rear wheel hub bearing, study the sequence of work in advance and focus on some details.
Do-it-yourself rear wheel hub bearing replacement
Any repair of the running gear of the car cannot be called simple. Not because it requires special education and special skills. The difficulty, first of all, lies in the complexity of the repair. Removing some parts requires decent effort and a lot of patience.
We must be prepared for this in advance. You can’t drive a car with a half-disassembled rear hub into a service. If the determination is not lost - first of all, you need to stock up on a tool.
Tools and accessories
To change the rear wheel hub bearing with your own hands, you will need:
- Jack and suitable wooden support;
- The socket wrench, as a rule, is 30 and a suitable piece of pipe, as an amplifier for the crank;
- Key 12, for disc guides;
- balloon wrench;
- Round-nose pliers for removing retaining rings;
- Hammer;
- Chisel;
- Universal puller. You can do without it, but this requires some experience. Therefore, it is better to buy it, it is also suitable for the front hub bearing.
- Mount.
- And, of course, a new bearing. It does not need to be taken out of the package ahead of time to prevent dirt from entering.
How to change the rear wheel bearing on the VAZ 2110: sequence of actions
First you need to break the wheel bolts, and raise the car with a jack.
Attention, in no case should work be carried out on a car installed on one jack, it is imperative to additionally use a wooden stand of suitable dimensions.
This is due to the great effort that will have to be applied in the process of work. A car on a jack will be very unstable. The further course of action is as follows:
- The bolts are unscrewed and the wheel is removed;
- Now you can remove the hub boot.
- The wheel guides are unscrewed. Sometimes this is not easy to do, they "sour" in aluminum. The main thing here is not to disrupt the edges, so there is no need to rush;
- Next, the brake drums are removed. It all depends on how long they haven't been filmed. Sometimes they are dismantled "by hand", and sometimes you have to knock with a hammer, through a tree, from the back. There is another way. The guides are screwed into special holes. It must be borne in mind that the pins cannot be used to remove the discs, this will lead to the destruction of the aluminum thread. You can only twist them to a slight stretch, and then try to knock the disk through the tree. Should help.
- The hub nut is unscrewed. You'll have to try - it is twisted very tightly. Therefore, the collar is reinforced with a piece of a suitable pipe. Care must be taken as the vehicle will wobble.
- The hub is removed. Here, of course, it is better to use a three-legged puller. However, not everyone has it, so you have to use the "proletarian" method. It consists in the following. A wheel is installed on the hub and bolted, but not completely, but so that there is a gap of several centimeters between the disk and the hub. Thus, a kind of reverse hammer is obtained. With a few sharp jerks of the wheel, the hub can usually be removed. And that's already half the battle.
- Using round nose pliers inserted into the corresponding holes, the retaining ring is removed.
- The old bearing is pressed out or simply knocked out with a universal puller;
- The axis of the hub is carefully examined. Sometimes the clip of the old bearing remains on it. It needs to be removed. The bearing is removed, you can proceed to install a new one. But first you can inspect the working brake cylinder. If it has leaks, you will have to change it so as not to remove the drum again later.
- The axle and hub are inspected for damage, cleaned of dust, dirt and rust, and lubricated with Litol type grease.
- The new bearing is pulled out of the package, its cage is also easily lubricated along the seat;
- Using a universal puller, the bearing is installed in place. In the absence of a tool, the bearing can be pressed in with a vise. In this case, the clip of the old one is used as a mandrel. It is not recommended to hammer the bearing with a hammer, this can lead to its destruction.
- Now you can install the retaining ring;
- Carefully, using a mandrel or a pipe of suitable diameter, with light blows, the hub is put in place;
- Fixed with a nut;
- The brake drum is put in place, the guides are twisted;
- The wheel is spinning. For the sake of interest, it is worth trying to shake and twist it. There will be no extraneous sounds and backlash.
How to change the rear hub bearing on a VAZ 2110 video
Outcome
After removing the car from the stands and the jack, you can test it on the go. The enjoyment of silence and satisfaction from the work done will be provided. And most importantly, now there is confidence in the reliability and safety of your car.
The axle or axle shaft (call it what you want) of the rear hub on VAZ 2110-2112 cars changes in exceptional cases. This is done either when the thread is damaged, when it can no longer be restored, or after an accident as a result of curvature, which is also extremely rare. If suddenly you had to face a similar problem, then the procedure for replacing the axle shaft will be discussed below.
First, consider the list of tools needed for repair:
- Socket head 17 mm
- Extension
- Ratchet handle
- Vorotok
- Hammer
- Phillips impact screwdriver
- Penetrating lubricant
How to remove the rear hub axle on the VAZ 2110, 2111 and 2112
It is worth noting the fact that before proceeding with this procedure, it is necessary to perform some preparatory work, such as:
- Removing brake pads (read in the article -)
After that, nothing will interfere with us and we can proceed directly to the work itself. The first step is to apply a penetrating lubricant to the axle mounting bolts. And after that we try to pluck them with a powerful wrench, as shown in the photo below:
When the bolts are torn off, you can finally unscrew them with a ratchet to make it faster and more convenient:
When this is done, we try to disconnect the axle along with the brake casing from the rear beam. Usually the axle sticks to such an extent that a hammer is indispensable. In this case, on the reverse side, apply a penetrating lubricant to the junction of the casing and the beam.
Then we wind a little nut onto the axle thread and slowly tap it with a hammer, as is clearly shown in the photo below:
Usually, after a couple of blows, the casing, along with the axle, bounces off the beam. Now you need a Phillips power screwdriver to unscrew the two bolts from the back:
And now you can carefully knock the axle out of the brake casing by hitting it several times with a hammer:
And the final result of the work done is shown in the photo below:
Installation takes place in the reverse order and difficulties should not arise. As for the price of this part, it can vary from 400 to 600 rubles apiece.
The wheel bearing is one of the most important components of the running gear of a car. Sooner or later, every car owner faces the question of the need to replace this element due to its failure or the end of its service life. You should figure out how to diagnose a malfunction of the rear wheel bearing on the VAZ-2110 and replace it correctly.
The manufacturer recommends changing these parts every 100 thousand kilometers traveled by the car, but only in rare cases do they fully consume their resource. Much more often they come into a faulty state about 1.5-2 times faster. In many ways, the wear rate depends on the road conditions in which the car is operated, as well as on the driving style of its owner. Naturally, a lot depends on the quality of the bearing itself.
Symptoms
The wheel bearing has a large margin of safety, but since the loads constantly experienced by it during movement are very large, sooner or later it wears out to such an extent that it loses its performance. Tightening with the replacement of a faulty wheel bearing should not be done, as this threatens that it will fall apart while driving. This will inevitably lead to instant blocking of the wheel, which, when driving at a sufficiently high speed, very often becomes the cause of a serious accident.
Even if you are lucky not to get into an accident, operating the machine with a non-working hub bearing will gradually lead to the failure of the entire rack, and replacing it is a much more complicated and expensive process.
The malfunctioning condition of the wheel bearing can be judged by the appearance of extraneous sounds during movement - knocks or hums from the side where the faulty part is located, which after a while, if no measures are taken, turn into vibration, giving both to the steering wheel and to the body part . This sign is already fraught with a serious threat - if it comes to vibration, in the near future we can expect the collapse of the "killed" bearing with all the problems associated with it.
Diagnostic procedure
Self-checking the wheel bearing is carried out in the following order. It should, in turn, jacking up the left and right sides of the vehicle, spin the wheels.
Having found a wheel that makes a hum when rotating, it should be shaken in different directions. As a rule, backlash is quickly detected. In some cases this is caused by a loose hub nut. To exclude this possibility, it should be tightened with a torque wrench and locked. If the play and extraneous noise have not disappeared, the wheel bearing should be replaced.
Since the VAZ-2110 has been out of production for quite some time, it cannot be under warranty. This car is not equipped with too complex electronics, unlike many foreign cars. Therefore, having the right tool and some skills, you can replace the wheel bearing on the "top ten" yourself.
Selecting a new part
It is not difficult to buy a new wheel bearing now, but since the choice of any parts is very rich, it can be difficult to decide on the manufacturer. It can be advised to give preference to an element produced in Russia. The quality of bearings made in China is inferior to domestic ones, and you should refrain from buying them.
Replacement procedure
It should be noted that the hub nut is tightened very tightly, and it is difficult to move it. To facilitate this task, you can use a metal pipe as a lever. A chisel and pry bar may also come in handy - it's best to keep them nearby. It is very good if an experienced motorist helps to independently replace this element for the first time.
This procedure is performed in the following order. First of all, the car should be put in a garage equipped with a viewing hole. If this is not possible, then you need to find a flat area for repair work. Then turn on the first gear with the gearshift lever, and put wheel chocks under the front wheels (ordinary bricks will do). Having done this, using the “balloon” wrench, you should slightly loosen the wheel bolts and raise the side on which the wheel bearing will be changed with a jack.
Then the fixing bolts are unscrewed to the end, and the wheel is removed from the axle. The guide pins are unscrewed and the brake drum is removed.
If you can’t do it right away, you should take a hammer and, applying a small plank to the drum, knock it around the circumference.
If tapping does not work, you can try to wrap the pins in their place - sometimes the drum moves away after that. In the event that all methods are ineffective, the part must be dismantled with a puller, however, there is a serious risk of damage to it. If this happens, the brake drum will also need to be replaced with a new one.
The hub nut is unscrewed using a socket wrench and (if necessary) a metal pipe.
The hub nut is removed from the trunnion using a puller
You can try to remove the hub without a puller. To do this, you need to put the removed wheel back in place, and then pull it sharply (but you don’t need to be too zealous, otherwise the car will fall off the jack)
In case of luck, the bearing is removed together with the inner ring. If it remains in place, then in order to dismantle it, you need to use a small puller.
If the ring is stuck, then it must be moved with a chisel and a pry bar, and then use a tie rod.
The retaining ring is removed using special tongs or pliers, after which the anther is knocked off (it can not be removed if the bearing is dismantled by knocking out).
Then the bearing is pressed out (or simply knocked out).
The old lubricant should be removed by laying in its place a new one. Then a new bearing is pressed in (according to the rules, this should be done using a puller, but if it is not available, the outer race of the element to be replaced is also suitable).
