Tools: a syringe or rubber bulb, a flathead screwdriver, a set of wrenches, a set of heads.
Note. Internal brake shoes of brake mechanisms rear wheels are equipped with lining wear indicators that emit a characteristic creak when the car is braked, in contact with the brake discs when the linings reach the minimum allowable thickness.
Before replacement brake pads brake mechanisms of the rear wheels must be selected working fluid from the main tank brake cylinder if its level reaches the "MAX" mark. To carry out this operation, it is most convenient to use a rubber pear or a large medical syringe. Make sure that the fence tool brake fluid was clean, otherwise it is possible for contamination to enter the master cylinder reservoir, which, in turn, can cause it wrong work or failure.
1. Remove the rear wheel.
2. Push the piston into the slave cylinder by pushing the caliper outward by inserting a large screwdriver between the outer brake shoe and caliper.
3. Unscrew and remove fixing bolt lower guide pin of the caliper while holding the pin from turning with a wrench.
4. Raise the caliper brake mechanism rear wheel up.
5. Remove the outer brake shoe from the shoe guide.
6. Remove the inner brake shoe from the shoe guide.
7. Remove the two fixing springs from the brake shoe guide.
Note. Each time you replace the brake pads, pay attention to the condition of the rubber boots protecting the caliper guide pin. Also make sure that the movement of the caliper relative to the brake shoe guide occurs without difficulty, otherwise the caliper guide pins should be lubricated. grease(lubrication is described in points 8, 9 and 10).
8. Remove the caliper guide pin.
9. Remove the protective cover from the guide pin.
10. Apply grease to the caliper guide pin, then lubricate the inside of the pin guard. Apply grease to the second guide pin and its protective boot in the same way. Install the caliper guide pins in reverse order. Replace protective covers if they are torn, hardened or deformed.
11. Before installing new rear wheel brake pads, lubricate them seats in the guide with a waterproof grease.
12. Install new brake pads in reverse order.
Note. Prevent spontaneous unscrewing of the bolt securing the caliper guide pin by applying an anaerobic thread locker to its threads.
13. Similarly replace brake shoes of the second back wheel.
14. Check and, if necessary, add brake fluid to the reservoir of the master brake cylinder.
Kit for replacing brake pads and discs.
Unscrew rim disk, remove the wheel. The following view will open.
We unscrew the two fixing bolts of the caliper with a 14 wrench.
After removing the caliper, proceed to remove the brake pads. pull it out to the side, after which they can be easily removed. IN this case the pads have a lot of wear and they are almost completely worn out.
After that, remove the caliper holder housing, for which we unscrew the two fixing screws with reverse side. Most likely you will have to use a hammer, after a few blows the bolts will give in and unscrew with some effort. You can use WD-40 first.
The next step is to unscrew the two screws in the drive. It is possible that after long-term operation they could boil. if all else fails, use a drill.
After we have finished with the screws, remove the disk. If it does not go the first time, use a hammer, lightly tapping it on the back of the disk.
Compare old and new brake discs.
Install brake disk. To do this, we put studs on it and clamp it with the screws unscrewed earlier.
We install new parts that come with the brake pads.
We fix the body-holder of the caliper in place and tighten it with the fixing bolts using a 17 wrench.
Then we install the old block close to the cylinder. using a wrench and a hammer, we press the cylinder inward, in order to then install new brake pads and a brake disc into it.
We fasten the caliper and check the work. If necessary, bleed the brake system.
This photo instruction shows step by step process such repair procedure, How pad replacement, and replacement brake discs by car Hyundai Tucson(Hyundai Tucson).
Pads and discs should be changed for several reasons, such as pad or disc wear, degraded braking, or grinding. The following tools are required for the procedure:
- hammer;
- crosshead screwdriver;
- keys for 14 and 17;
- drill, if there is a need to drill stuck screws);
- WD-40, just in case something is rusty and hard to cut;
Weeds:
1) When unscrewing the caliper mounting bolts, hold the caliper fingers with a key from turning. If they don’t turn anyway, congratulations, they are sour. Read about them below. We tie the caliper on the hose with a piece of wire to one of the coils of the spring suspension strut. There he does not interfere and definitely will not fall by breaking the hose.
2) The caliper bracket that is attached to the suspension knuckle does not need to be unscrewed by hitting it with a hammer. Take the head, a good crank and an extension to it, and the lower bolt will turn off perfectly, if not with the force of the hand, then with the force of the foot. The upper bolt is turned away with a normal key with an asterisk, hard, but almost immediately. If it’s difficult and you don’t want to strain, again, a head with a collar and a pipe, only a pipe that will fit under the wing. The bolts are on the thread lock, as are the bolts of the caliper itself. You need to put them back on it and tighten them with the indicated moments, and not at random. The tightening force of the bracket bolts is more, but the caliper bolts do not pull at all strongly, many overtighten, then have problems with them. The tightening torques are described in the repair documentation.
3) It is necessary to check whether the fingers of the caliper bracket are acidified. If it is soured, it means that the bracket does not move and does not press the outer block during braking, it only slows down the inner one, the one that is pressed in by the cylinder piston. It usually erases to zero, and the outer one is almost not worn out. Fingers need to be knocked out and lubricated with lubricant for brake mechanisms, and not Litol there, for example, as some do.
4) When the M6 screws securing the disc are removed, it is unnecessary to hit the disc with a hammer with all your strength, just tap it with inside in several places around the circumference, this is not an oak Zhiguli, everything here is placed with normal landings, and does not rust tightly.
Screws that can not be unscrewed by any force are drilled. First, drill out the cap to remove the disk. After soaking the remaining stumps, we try to unscrew them. If we don't go, we drill. First, with a smaller drill, then we bring it to a diameter of 5.6 mm, and then with an M6 tap, carefully clean the thread in the hub from the rest of the screw.
5) You can put the disk on one screw, but at least it should be. The author apparently never changed a wheel with a loose brake disc on the road. He removed the wheel, and the disc shifted once, then put the wheel, the disc stood up like cancer. And everything is fine, let's go.
5) The assembly process described by the author is nonsense. Here is the normal process. The surface under installation of a disk is cleared - carefully. The brake disc is installed. The caliper bracket is installed. The very pieces of iron from the pads are inserted into it, which are actually the fixing springs of the pads. The pads are inserted, first the inner, then the outer. Before installing, check to see if the pads are sticky. oily hands if so degrease. We install the caliper, before that we recess the cylinder. If you previously topped up the brake fluid to the upper mark, it will pour out of the tank, so you need to suck it out a little with a syringe. Installed the support. We check the rotation of the disk - remove it from the transmission, after making sure that the car does not roll. We examine the disk for smearing lubricants. Degrease with solvent. Believe me, if there is even a small amount of oily rubbish on the pads or disc, they will not slow down.
6) Install the wheel. Start the engine and work the brake pedal vigorously - select the gaps of the pads. You can do this without putting the wheel on, the main thing is that the car stands securely - it does not fall or roll. Then it will be possible to immediately assess whether the pads normally move away from the disc, releasing it.
At the end, we look at the brake fluid level and top up if necessary.
A competent replacement of the front pads with cleaning of parts takes no more than an hour. Without any f ... zero, uh ... chill, etc.
14.06.2017
Replacing the front brake pads of the Hyundai Tucson is a procedure from the car maintenance list, which should be performed approximately every 60 thousand kilometers. However, the actual frequency depends very much on the style of management, the prevailing road conditions, the quality of the pads themselves and much more. Some wash them even for 30 thousand, although there were cases that native pads were used on Tussan with a range of under 100 thousand, but these, of course, are exceptions to the rule. This guide will apply to 2010-2014 ix-35 crossovers, as well as the next generation from 2015. On many Hyundai and Kia cars, the design brake system similar, so owners of models such as Solaris, Elantra, Sonata, Sportage, Equus, Optima, Rio and others, this guide may also come in handy.
When choosing pads, you need to remember that they catalog numbers may differ depending on the year of manufacture of the machine, its modification and the FWD / 4WD / AWD drive system.
Removing the front brake caliper
We park the crossover on level ground and fix its wheels wheel chocks to prevent rollback. Slightly loosen the nuts on the wheel where you plan to replace the pads. To do this, we use a balloon key. Raise the car with a jack.
Loosen the nuts and remove the front wheel. Thus we got access to the brake caliper, knuckle and parts of the front suspension.
Parsing stopping support Hyundai Tucson
The front caliper is held in place with two bolts from the back. We turn off alternately the upper and lower head by 14 and a ratchet key, turning clockwise, when viewed from outside the car.
Remove the Tussant brake caliper with an outward movement and place it in such a way as not to damage brake hose. Using a flathead screwdriver, remove the old brake pads. We remember the position of the wear indicator, so that if it is present on new pads, install them in the same way.
Installing new pads and assembly
Before installing new front brake pads, it is advisable to clean the places from dirt. In order for the brakes to work easily and smoothly, the two guide calipers that are inside the caliper must be lubricated. To do this, you need to use graphite, copper grease or brake lubricant. If there are clamping springs in the set of new pads, you need to replace them too.
We install new parts by analogy with the previous ones, paying attention to the position of the wear indicator. Since new pads are much thicker than worn pads, it may be necessary to countersink the brake cylinder piston in order for them to snap into place. This will require special device, which can be bought at an auto shop. It can be useful for repair and maintenance of brakes not only on Tussan. If there is no drive for the brake cylinders, you can drown it by focusing on a hard surface and pulling it towards you. In this case, care must be taken not to damage its anther, brake hose and other parts.
Changing the front brake pads
We install the pads in their places and put the brake caliper back. Before installing the guides, lubricate them. If the rubber anthers are torn or damaged, they must also be replaced, otherwise dirt and water will get into the caliper and it can quickly fail. Such anthers are sold, usually in a caliper repair kit to order.
We tighten the bolts. Installing the wheel.
After replacing the brake pads, be sure to check the brake fluid level. The container with it is located under the hood closer to windshield. Since we sunk the piston of the cylinder, the level may be higher than normal. If this is the case, some must be pumped out with a syringe. If the level, on the contrary, is below normal, the liquid must be topped up.
After installing new pads, it is recommended to drive for a while in a quiet mode, without hard braking to let them get used to the brake discs. At first, the tenacity of the brakes may seem weak, but after a while it should recover. If this does not happen, or when braking you feel jerking and vibrations, you should have the brake system diagnosed with the help of professionals. It may be necessary to replace the brake discs or other parts of it.
NOTE
Pay attention to the markings on the brake pads. Buy new pads with the same markings. UBS front pads for Hyundai Tucson are marked B11-03-065.
Check the condition of the brake pads every time maintenance(See "Checking the degree of wear of the brake pads and discs").
Brake pads require replacement if the pads are worn (minimum allowable thickness friction linings 2.0 mm), loose connection between the linings and the base, oiling of the working surfaces, the presence of deep grooves or chips.
NOTE
Wear indicators are installed on the inner pads of the front brakes. When the minimum allowable thickness of the pads is reached, the wear indicator contacts the brake disc during braking, causing a squeak, signaling the onset of the wear limit of the brake pads.
WARNING
Replace the front brake pads only as a set - 4 pcs. (two on each side). Before replacing the brake pads, check the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. If it is close to the “MAX” mark, it is necessary to pump out part of the liquid, for example, with a medical syringe or a rubber bulb), because after replacing the worn pads with new ones, the level will rise.
You will need: wrenches "for 14", "for 17", a wrench for wheel nuts, sliding pliers.
- Remove the left front wheel.
- Turn out a bolt of fastening of the bottom directing finger of a support, holding the finger from turning by the second key...
- ... and lift the caliper up.
- Remove the inner lining...
- ... internal ...
- ...and outer brake pads.
NOTE
This is how the brake pads of the front brake mechanism look like: 1 - internal and external brake pads; 2 – an overlay of an internal brake shoe; 3 - brake pad wear indicator.
- Remove the lower from the guide pads ...
- ...and the top fixing springs.
- Drown the piston of the working cylinder with the help of sliding pliers.
USEFUL TIPS
Every time the brake pads are replaced in without fail check the condition of the protective rubber boots of the guide pin and the movement of the caliper relative to the guide of the brake pads. If movement is difficult, lubricate the caliper guide pins with grease. For this…
…remove the guide pin, lubricate it with grease and then lubricate the pin guard with grease. Lubricate the second guide pin and its boot in the same way. Install the guide pins in the reverse order of removal.
Replace the guide pin guards if they are hardened, deformed, or torn.
- Install the fixing springs, brake shoes in the guides and other parts in the reverse order of removal. To prevent self-retraction of the caliper guide pin bolt, lubricate its thread before installing anaerobic fixative threads.
- Similarly, replace the brake pads of the brake mechanism of the right front wheel.
- Check and, if necessary, restore the level of brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir.
USEFUL TIPS
After replacing worn out brake pads with new ones, do not rush to immediately go to busy highways. It is possible that at the very first intensive braking you will be unpleasantly surprised by the low efficiency of the brakes despite the fact that branded pads are installed. Brake discs also wear out, and new pads only touch them at the edges, with little to no braking. Choose a quiet street or passage without cars and slow down gently several times so that the pads get used and begin to fit the entire surface. At the same time, evaluate the effectiveness of the brakes. Try not to brake sharply for at least the first 100 km. At strong heat unused pads, the top layer of their linings burns and the brakes will not be as effective as possible for a long time.
