We carry out work on repairing the rear axle of the Volga GAZ 31105 car on an inspection hole or overpass without removing the rear axle from the GAZ 31105 car. We disconnect the cardan shaft from the rear axle. We clean the rear axle of dirt, wipe it with a rag. Drain the oil from the rear axle housing. We take out the axle shafts from the casings.
Using the “12” wrench, we unscrew ten bolts securing the rear axle gear case cover (one of the upper bolts secures the brake tube bracket).
Carefully, so as not to damage the gasket, remove the rear axle housing cover.
Using the “12” wrench, we unscrew the bolts securing the two locking plates that fix the adjusting nuts of the differential bearings. We mark the covers of the adjusting nuts with a marker or a chisel so that when assembling the rear axle gearbox of the Volga GAZ 31105 car, put each in its place.
With a “17” head, we unscrew two bolts securing each cover of the adjusting nuts.
Remove both covers.
We mark the adjusting nuts of the differential bearings with a center punch in order to put them in their original places when assembling the gearbox.
We take out the differential assembly from the crankcase of the rear axle of the Volga GAZ 31105 car. Remove the outer rings of the differential bearings. If the differential bearings are not supposed to be replaced, we mark their outer rings in order to install them in their original places when assembling the rear axle.
With two probes, we check on both sides of each of the side gears the axial play in the differential housing, which should be within 0.03-0.05 mm. Worn parts should be replaced. We mark the position of the driven gear on the differential housing.
Using the “15” head, unscrew the ten bolts securing the driven gear to the differential housing.
Using a soft metal drift, knock out the bolts from the holes. With light blows of a hammer through a soft metal drift, we knock the gear off the differential housing ...
And remove the driven gear of the rear axle from the differential housing.
Through a thin steel rod we knock out the stopper of the axis of the satellites ...
And take out the axle.
Turning (on the gears of the axle shafts), we install the satellites opposite the windows of the differential housing. We take out the washers of the satellites ...
And the satellites themselves.
Warning: Do not confuse the washers of different gears of the axle shafts and satellites in order to assemble them with newly run-in pairs if necessary.
We take out the gear of one of the semi-axes ...
And we remove the puck from it. Similarly, we take out the gear of the second axle shaft.
With a puller, we press the inner ring of one of the differential bearings. In the absence of a puller, we insert a chisel between the end face of the inner ring of the bearing and the differential housing. By striking the chisel, we shift the inner ring of the bearing. We insert two screwdrivers or mounting blades into the resulting gap and compress the inner ring of the differential bearing with the cage and rollers. Similarly, we press the inner ring with the separator and rollers of the other bearing from the differential housing.
If the differential bearings are to be reused, their outer and inner races corresponding to each other should be wired together. By rotating the rear axle drive gear by the flange, you can approximately assess the condition of its bearings. The shaft should rotate easily, without jamming, backlash and noise. We install an indicator (clock type) on a tripod with a division value of not more than 0.01 mm, resting its leg against the end of the flange of the rear axle drive gear ...
And moving the shaft by the flange, we measure the axial play of the drive gear. We record the amount of backlash. If the axial play is greater than 0.1 mm, make sure that the cause of this is not the drive gear flange mounting nut that is not tightened to the norm.
To eliminate backlash, it is necessary to remove the adjusting washer mounted on the gear shaft and measure its height with a micrometer. Remove drive gear flange.
We take out the drive gear of the rear axle of the Volga GAZ 31105 car with an adjusting washer from the rear axle housing (the gear can be knocked out by hammering on the end of the shaft through a soft metal spacer).
Prying with a screwdriver, we take out the oil seal of the rear axle drive gear.
We take out the inner ring with the separator and the rollers of the front bearing of the rear axle drive gear.
The rear axle bearings, side clearance and the position of the contact patch in the engagement of the main pair are adjusted at the factory, and, as a rule, they do not require adjustment during operation. Their adjustment is necessary only after the bridge has been rebuilt and parts have been replaced, as well as when the bearings are heavily worn. The side clearance in the gearing of the main gear, which has increased due to tooth wear, is not reduced by adjustment, as this leads to a violation of the gearing and, as a result, to increased rear axle noise or tooth breakage. Backlash in tapered bearings is eliminated without disturbing the relative position of the driven and driving gears.
Pinion bearing preload adjustment
The need to adjust the bearings can be determined by the presence of axial play of the drive gear. Axial play is measured with the cardan shaft disconnected using an indicator with a division value of not more than 0.01 mm when the flange is moved in the axial direction. In this case, the indicator leg should rest against the end of the flange parallel to the axis of the drive gear.
Axial play in the pinion bearings should be eliminated by adjusting the preload. The preload is adjusted by selecting the thickness of the adjusting ring 5 (see).
The adjustment must be made as follows:
Unpin and unscrew nut 1, remove flange 2, stuffing box 3 and bearing inner ring 4;
Replace the adjusting ring 5 with a new one, the thickness of which should be less than the one being replaced by the value of the axial play plus an additional 0.05 mm if the vehicle mileage is less than 1000 km or 0.01 mm if the vehicle mileage is more than 10,000 km;
Put in place the inner race of the bearing, a new oil seal, flange and tighten the nut to a torque of 160-200 N m (16-20 kgf m), then check the ease of rotation of the drive gear. If more force is required to rotate the drive gear than it was before the adjustment, then it is necessary to replace the adjusting ring, increasing its thickness by 0.01-0.02 mm.
After adjusting the bearing preload, it is necessary to tighten the nut to a torque of 160-200 N·m (16-20 kgf·m) until the slot in the nut coincides with the hole for the cotter pin. To match the hole for the cotter pin with the slot of the nut, it is only necessary to tighten it, because otherwise, due to insufficient tightening, the inner ring of the outer bearing may turn, wear the adjusting ring and, as a result, increase the axial play of the bearings. When tightening the flange nut, it is necessary to rotate the drive gear to properly install the rollers in the bearings.
After adjustment, it is necessary to check the heating of the bearings after driving the car at a speed of 60-70 km / h for 20-30 minutes. In this case, the heating of the crankcase neck should not exceed 95 ° C (water that has fallen on the neck should not boil). In case of excessive heating, the preload must be reduced.
Adjust the preload when replacing the bearings of the drive gear and final drive gear in the following order:
It is necessary to adjust the position of the drive gear by selecting the adjusting ring 7 (see), ensuring the size (109.5 ± 0.02) mm - the distance between the common axis of the side gears and the end face of the drive gear adjacent to the adjusting ring 7;
By selecting the adjusting ring 5, adjust the preload of the drive gear bearings. With proper adjustment, the moment of resistance to rotation of the drive gear should be in the range of 150-200 N m (15-10 kgf cm) for new bearings or 70-100 N m (7-10 kgf cm) for used bearings. If the moment of resistance to rotation of the bearings is within the normal range, it is necessary to cotter the nut, otherwise the adjustment should be repeated. In this case, if the moment of resistance to rotation turned out to be less than required, it is necessary to reduce the thickness of the adjusting ring, and if more, it is necessary to select a ring of greater thickness.
After adjusting the preload of the bearings, it is necessary to install the differential assembly in the axle and adjust the preload of the differential bearings and the side clearance in the engagement of the final drive gears.
Adjustment of differential bearing preload and lateral clearance in the meshing of gears and final drive
Adjustment without changing bearings.
Remove the axle shafts and remove the gearbox from the axle housing (for the rear axle with a banjo beam);
With the locking plates 14 removed (see) and the covers 17 of the differential bearings loosened, use the adjusting nuts 16 to set an axial clearance of 0.01 mm in the differential bearings (see)
Install the indicator as shown in and check the backlash in the meshing of the gears, which should be between 0.15-0.25 mm. Check to be carried out at at least six points, each time turning the gear;
To increase the side clearance, loosen the adjusting nut on the side of the driven gear and tighten the opposite nut by the same number of grooves. To reduce the side clearance, these operations are performed in reverse order;
Adjust the preload by compressing the bearings in the axial direction:
By 0.1 mm with a car mileage of less than 1000 km;
By 0.05 mm with a run of more than 10,000 km;
The control is carried out by the angle of rotation of the adjusting nut. Turning one nut towards the other by the width of the groove corresponds to a compression of the bearings by 0.05 mm;
Tighten the bolts of the differential bearing caps and check the backlash of the gear teeth of the final drive;
Bolt the locking plates to the bearing caps;
Install the gearbox in the axle housing;
Install axle shafts.
Adjustment when replacing bearings.
To adjust bearings:
Remove the axle shafts, crankcase cover and cover gasket (for a one-piece rear axle);
Remove the axle shafts and remove the gearbox from the crankcase (for a rear axle with a banjo-type beam);
Unscrew the bolts securing the covers, remove the covers, remove the differential and adjusting nuts 16;
Measure the residual friction torque of the drive gear bearings with a dynamometer;
Press out the inner bearing rings from the differential box and press in new ones;
Put the differential in place with new bearings, tightly pressing their outer rings;
Insert adjusting nuts 16 into the threaded part of the rear axle housing, as close as possible to the bearings, and install covers 17 according to the markings on the bearing caps and on the rear axle housing;
Fix the bearing caps with bolts with a force that does not prevent the tightening of the adjusting nuts 16 (the holes in the crankcase for the bolts must first be lubricated with an anaerobic sealant);
Tighten the bearings with the adjusting nuts until a slight preload is obtained. During the preloading of the bearings, the driven gear must be turned a few turns in one direction, then in the other direction for the correct installation of the rollers in the bearings;
Alternately tightening the adjusting nuts of the differential bearings, achieve an increase in the moment of resistance to rotation of the drive gear by 150-300 N·m (15-30 kgf·cm) relative to the residual moment of resistance to rotation, measured after removing the differential;
Install the indicator as shown in and check the backlash in the meshing of the gears, which should be between 0.15-0.25 mm. To increase the clearance, loosen the adjusting nut on the side of the driven gear and tighten the nut on the side of the drive gear by the same number of grooves to maintain the preload of the bearings. To reduce the side clearance, these operations are performed in reverse order;
The rotation of the adjusting nuts must be completed with a tightening. For example, if you want to loosen the nut by one groove, then you should loosen it by two, and then tighten it by one groove. This ensures that the nut is in contact with the outer ring of the bearing and that the ring does not move during operation;
Finally tighten the bolts of the bearing caps, fasten the locking plates on the bearing caps with bolts;
Install gasket and rear cover (for one-piece rear axle);
Install the gearbox in the axle housing (for the rear axle with a banjo beam);
Install axle shafts.
Checking engagement on the contact patch
After the final assembly and adjustment of the axle gearbox, the gear engagement should be checked. To do this, paint the teeth with paint. It should be noted that very liquid paint spreads and stains the surface of the teeth, too thick - it does not squeeze out of the gaps between the teeth. Slowing down the driven gear, rotate the drive gear in both directions until a clear contact patch is indicated.
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Rice. 5.35. The contact patch of the main gear gears: I - forward side (working); II - reverse side; 1 - correct contact in the gears of the main gear at a small load; 2 - contact at the top of the tooth (for correction, the drive gear is moved to the driven gear); 3 - contact at the root of the tooth (for correction, the drive gear is moved away from the driven gear); 4 - contact at the narrow end of the tooth (for correction, the driven gear is moved away from the drive; 5 - contact at the wide end of the tooth (for correction, the driven gear is moved towards the drive) |
Obtaining the correct contact pattern of the teeth completes the verification of the installation of the gears and the backlash in the mesh. The side clearance must be within the above limits. On fig. 5.35
2. To increase the side clearance, the driven gear is retracted from the leading one:
On the working side of the tooth, the contact patch moves slightly higher and closer to the wide end of the tooth;
On the non-working side of the tooth, the contact patch moves slightly higher and closer to the wide end of the tooth;
3. When approaching the drive gear to the driven:
The contact patch on the working side moves below and closer to the narrow end of the tooth;
The contact patch on the non-working side moves below and closer to the wide end of the tooth;
4. When moving the drive gear away from the driven gear:
The contact patch on the working side of the tooth moves to the top of the tooth and to its wide end;
On the non-working side of the tooth, the contact patch moves to the top of the tooth and moves slightly towards its narrow end.
Maintenance of the rear axle consists in periodically checking the oil level in the crankcase, topping it up and changing it according to the lubrication map, cleaning the breather from dirt, tightening the drive gear flange nut, axle shaft nuts, checking and restoring the adjustments of the wheel hub bearings, drive gear and differential.
Clearances in the main gear must be measured on the vehicle after disconnecting the cardan shaft. Before checking the gaps, it is necessary to check the tightening of the nut 1 of the drive gear flange (see), for which it is necessary to unpin the nut and tighten it with a torque of 160-200 N m (16-20 kgf m). By moving the drive gear flange in the axial and angular directions, check the clearances. The axial clearance in the drive gear bearings is checked as indicated in the subsection “Adjusting the drive gear bearing preload”).
To measure the full angular play of the drive gear flange, it is necessary to make a mark on the edge of the flange deflector, turn the flange all the way to the left and make a mark on the crankcase that matches the mark on the reflector. Turn the flange all the way to the right and make a second risk on the crankcase. Measure the distance between the marks on the crankcase. If it exceeds 12 mm, this indicates excessive wear on the teeth of the drive and driven gears of the final drive, differential gears or splines of side gears and axle shafts.
Drain the oil from the rear axle housing after it has been preheated. The oil level is checked and topped up through the crankcase filler hole on a car standing on a horizontal platform. Checking should be done some time after the trip to allow the oil to cool and drain from the walls of the crankcase. Lack of oil or its excess are equally harmful.
If the noise of the bridge is increased to such an extent that it is considered unacceptable from the point of view of comfort or causes a fear of breakage, it is considered as a malfunction. Axle whine (high-pitched noise) affects comfort and can be avoided by avoiding long periods of driving in the narrow speed ranges where it is audible. Before disassembling the bridge, you should make sure that the noise comes from the bridge. Sources of noise can be a faulty clutch disc, tires (noise changes with different road surfaces and increases with speed), engine.
... and press it in (you can use the outer ring of the old bearing as a mandrel).
We press the outer ring of the rear bearing into the crankcase with the same punch with which it was knocked out. This must be done carefully, making sure that the ring does not warp.
We install the inner ring with the separator and the rollers of the front bearing.
Having covered the seat and the working edge of the new oil seal with Litol-24 grease ... 
... install the oil seal in the neck of the rear axle housing.
We press in a new oil seal on the same level with the end face of the crankcase neck, using the old oil seal as a mandrel.
If it was necessary to replace both bearings or the drive gear of the rear axle final drive on a Volga GAZ 31105 car, then it is necessary to adjust the position of the drive gear by selecting the adjusting ring and adjust the bearing preload (i.e. shaft axial play). To adjust the position of the rear axle drive gear, a special mandrel made from an old drive gear and a cylindrical mandrel with a calibrated diameter are required. Such an adjustment (with the required accuracy) is difficult to perform outside a specialized workshop. Therefore, it is necessary to assemble the rear axle gearbox with the adjusting ring that was installed earlier, and select a new ring, focusing on the contact patch in the meshing of the main gear gears (see "Adjusting the rear axle gearbox according to the contact patch of the teeth"). Having adjusted the position of the drive gear, we measure the axial play of the drive gear shaft (see measurement of the play above).
If the play is more than normal, we measure the thickness of the old shim with a micrometer and select a new one (see "Description of the design"). The new washer should be thinner than the old one by the amount of play and by another 0.05 mm if the rear axle drive gear bearings were replaced with new ones, or by 0.01 mm if the bearings remained the same. Having installed the drive gear in the gearbox housing, with a torque wrench we tighten the flange nut to a torque of 160-200 Nm (see "Replacing the rear axle gearbox oil seal"), while the gear must be turned to properly install the rollers in the bearings.
If the washer is selected correctly, the moment of resistance to rotation of the drive gear shaft should be 1.5-2.5 Nm for new bearings or 0.7-1.0 Nm for worn-in bearings. With sufficient accuracy, the moment of resistance to rotation can be estimated by the steelyard ... 
...hooking its hook into the hole in the flange of the rear axle gearbox.
At the same time, the values of efforts on the steelyard should be 3.8-5 kgf and 1.8-2.5 kgf, respectively. If the moment of resistance is greater, it is necessary to replace the adjusting washer with another one, 0.01-0.02 mm thicker, if less, choose a thinner washer. We press the differential bearings through a piece of pipe of a suitable size, acting only on their inner rings. The driven gear mounting bolts, as well as their nuts, are degreased and covered with an anaerobic sealant before assembly. We pay special attention to the cleanliness of the end seating surfaces of the gear and differential housing, the slightest dirt or nicks are unacceptable.
Existing damage is removed with fine abrasive sandpaper, and then thoroughly washed.
Upon completion of the assembly of the differential, we make sure that the backlash of the side gears is normal (see above). The side gears should turn freely by hand. With an increased clearance, we replace the washers of the side gears with others - of greater thickness.
Having applied gear oil to the bearings of the differential, we install the differential in the bores of the rear axle housing and fasten it with caps with adjusting bearing nuts (finally without tightening the bolts of the caps).
With adjusting nuts, we tighten the differential bearings with a slight interference, while turning the gears so that the bearing rollers take the correct position.
To measure the side clearance in the meshing of the main gear gears, we fix the indicator on the rear axle housing by bringing its probe to the top of the tooth on the outside of the driven gear.
The gap should be 0.15-0.20 mm. Measurements should be repeated on at least six teeth in opposite zones of the crown. To reduce the gap (with a screwdriver or a thin steel rod), loosen the adjusting nut on the side opposite the driven gear, and tighten the other.
Unscrew one nut and tighten the other by the same amount, guided by the grooves of the adjusting nuts. In this case, each unscrewing of the adjusting nut must be completed by screwing it in a little (for example, to loosen the nut by five grooves, we unscrew it by six, and then we wrap it by one groove). This will ensure that the outer ring of the bearing is in constant contact with the nut and thus ensures that it is held in place during operation.
To increase the clearance, perform the entire procedure in reverse order.
After adjusting the side clearance in engagement, check the axial play in the differential bearings (bearing preload).
For this... 
... we fix the indicator on the tripod, resting its probe against the end of the driven gear of the rear axle. Shaking the gear in the axial direction, we measure the play in the bearings of the rear axle differential.
With an adjusting nut located on the opposite side of the driven gear, we set the axial play of 0.035-0.055 mm.
Further, tightening the nut, we set the backlash: 0.1 mm - with a run of rear axle bearings on a Volga GAZ 31105 car up to 10 thousand km; 0.05 mm - with a Volga GAZ 31105 car run of more than 10 thousand km. Turning the nut one slot corresponds to a bearing preload of 0.03 mm. Having adjusted the backlash, we tighten the bolts of the bearing caps and, having installed the locking plates, check the side clearance again.
ATTENTION
Before the final tightening of the cap bolts, we unscrew them one by one and apply an anaerobic sealant to the threads.
After assembling the rear axle of the Volga GAZ 31105 car, we fill the rear axle with oil and test the gearbox on the go. To do this, we make a trip by car Volga GAZ 31105 at a speed of 60-70 km / h for 20-30 minutes. The heating of the rear axle crankcase must not exceed 95° (water drops must not boil). Otherwise it is necessary to reduce the preload of the pinion bearings.
It consists of a beam, inside which all the main nodes are located.
It looks like the rear axle from GAZ 31105
In its central front part there is a crankcase, inside it there are two axle shafts and a gearbox with a leading differential. Repair of the gearbox and adjustment of the correct differential is carried out through a special hatch located at the rear of the crankcase. On the side of the crankcase, protective covers of the axle shafts are attached, they transmit torque to the wheels. On the edges of the pipes there are welded flanges with grooves for the bearing and sockets for the bracket for connecting the brake shield. The mechanism of such a sample is called "banjo".
The axis of the drive gear of the bridge is located 4.2 cm below the driven one, the gear ratio of the main gear is 4.556, such a gear is called hypoid. The pinion box contains 2 axles, 4 pinions and 2 bevel gears. The body is made of two halves, bolted together.
Drawing device rear axle Volga 31105
The adjustment of the driven gear and the pretensioning of the bearings is carried out by tightening or loosening the special nuts. The gear itself is bolted to the pinion box. The drive gear is located next to the camshaft on bearings.
The correct position is set by the adjusting ring located next to it and the bearing. The bearing is preloaded with a spacer ring.
The tips of the semi-axes are inserted into the slotted holes of the gears. On the front side of which there are flanges connected to the hub with ten studs. The hub is located directly on the body of the rear axle shaft. A wheel is hung on it and tightened.
Possible malfunctions
The problem is that there is a metallic noise while driving.
Metallic clatter coming from the brake drum
Change of oil
In the gearbox of a GAZ-31105 car, it is advisable to change the oil every 30-40 thousand mileage. This will require an old container with a volume of at least one and a half liters, a flat screwdriver, a 12 hexagon and a 30 wrench.
Helpful advice! Before replacing, it is recommended to drive 5-10 km. The bridge oil should warm up - this will help it flow better.
These actions are more convenient to perform on a lift or overpass:
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ZMZ 406 engine installed on a GAZ-31105 car
Helpful advice! In the absence of a large oil syringe, there is another way to fill. You can use the hose into which the funnel is inserted. Oil is poured into the rear axle to the maximum, which is the edge of the filler hole.
- the cork is twisted into place, the resulting smudges are wiped with a rag;
- the breather is unscrewed from the protective housing of the left axle shaft with a 12 wrench;
- washed with diesel fuel, purged with a compressor and screwed into place.
Filling oil in the gearbox Volga 31105
Healthy! When unscrewing the filler and drain plugs, it is advisable to change the copper gasket to a new one. This will give some guarantee that there will be no oil leaks from the rear axle in further operation.
Removing the rear axle
It is advisable to do both. The weight of the GAZ-31105 rear axle is 86 kg, so the help of a partner will be required to carry out work on its removal. Procedure:
Advice! When separating the tube and hose, plug the hole on the first with a cap or bolt of a suitable size. This will prevent leakage of brake fluid from the system.
- the brake cables of the rear wheel drive are disconnected;
- bracket, spring ladders are turned away and removed;
- having risen slightly above the springs, the rear axle is removed from the car;
- the bridge after the repair is installed in its original place in the opposite order of the work performed, with the help of a partner.
