A brief note for those who have already climbed through the mud on Shevik and realized that this is a good SUV, but its cross-country ability needs to be increased. In fact, there is not enough much here, but the most important thing that Shevik does not shake is the clearance. And it needs to be increased unambiguously, and after it there are less significant improvements.
Clearance — just sadness, trouble. Putting Shevik on the bridges in the mud is a piece of cake. I planted for Last year 3 times - two in the summer and one in the spring, planted on packed snow. When you drive through the mud and there is a track at least from the UAZs, then on Shevik you have to drive with one wheel along the track, and the second with liquid mud between the tracks, or, if possible, put one track between the wheels.
(In the photo - a prepared Niva Chevrolet on rubber Y-569 "Bear" size 235 / 75R15, an elevator for rubber, engine protection, a regular plastic bumper was replaced with a power one)
Ground clearance can be increased by installing mud tires of a larger diameter, optimal for Shevik - 235/75 / R15, compared to maximum wheels for stock 215/75/R15, the increase in ground clearance will be only 1.5 cm. So little, you say? Not at all, one and a half centimeters sometimes decide whether you sit on bridges or drive, rubbing your belly on the ground. However, the installation of rubber of a larger diameter creates a load on all suspension units, so the car needs to be modified - to cut the arches so that the wheels do not cling when turning and also behave normally on overhangs.
So, the wheels were put on, the car became taller. It will become even worse to pull, therefore, in order to facilitate the work of the engine, you need to reduce total mass wheels. This can be done in two ways. The first is to put light tires. For example, a 235/75/15 Contyre Expedition weighs 10 percent lighter than a Cordiant Offroad tank. Well, the second — we change the disks. Stamping, of course, is good - cheap and cheerful. However, it weighs a ton, but you can put forged wheels (they will be 30-40 percent lighter than stamping). So it turns out that a large diameter wheel with light rubber on forging will weigh the same as a smaller diameter wheel with heavy rubber and stamped rims.
So if you see a Chevrolet Niva with toothy tires on forged wheels (most often it is VSMPO), then you should know that the owner of the car fumbles and reduces the load on the car's transmission by reducing the weight of the wheel.
If you see Shevik on the road without a native plastic bumper- it means that the regular owner interfered and he took it off, because big wheels when turning the steering wheel, they cling to the bumper as much as possible to the side. And therefore, the option is to remove it and replace it with a power one, which has a cut-off triangle shape just for installation big wheels so that when you turn the steering wheel they do not cling. Well, of course, the purpose of the security officer is to ram small trees when there are cuts on the road.
We continue)) Passable Chevrolet Niva — it's always toothy wheels. The teeth are needed so that they dig liquid mud and dig into hard ground and the car would drive out. You should also pay attention to the rubber with side lugs - it will be easier to get out of the rut, and this is a priority for Shevik, Chevy must be able to get out of the rut, because in most cases it’s simply unrealistic to drive along someone else’s rut. And if you get into such a rut, you will immediately sit on the bridges, because ground clearance sad here. From the toothy wheels Cordian Offroad (they are heavier), (easier), as well as imported ones - Goodrich, Kumho and Hankuk.
Widget from SocialMartI won’t talk about changing the main pairs, so it’s clear that large wheels reduce dynamics and it becomes uncomfortable to drive along the highway.
So - we increased the clearance, put toothy tires. What else? Center lock there is and it often helps out. However, there are times when it is not enough. Very often in ambushes only 2 wheels are spinning - one on front axle, the second is on the back (this is with the lock on). That would spin one more and the car would have left. In order for the third wheel to spin, you need an inter-wheel lock or the so-called self-block. We put in rear axle and permeability increases even more. .
Well, and most importantly, the cross-country ability of the Chevrolet Niva directly depends on the skill of the driver. Therefore, go for a ride more often, try different variants the location of the car on the road, so that there are gullies and strong slopes. Over time, you will learn to find the best routes for driving off-road cars, deftly start the wheels only along the only correct path, learn to determine which “ambushes” to go through tightness, and which “slipper to the floor”. No wonder Niva and Niva Chevrolet are considered excellent SUVs, with skillful use and experience, you can drive even further than the UAZ.
Let's summarize. To increase the cross-country ability of your Shevik, first of all, you need to definitely increase the clearance - this is done by installing large-diameter rubber (optimal 235/75/15), however, to install such rubber, you will either have to cut the arches or make an elevator at least 5 cm. For new machines - a lift, for old ones - cutting. And you can do both together. If you go to places where the rules are dictated by the Urals, then Chevy is not your choice, because even with all the modifications, you can put 29″ wheels as much as possible. And the investment will be decent. But on the UAZ, you can already screw 31-33 and even 35 ″ (there are already total improvements) and the clearance will be an order of magnitude higher. Think, decide
Even more offroad.
Indeed, many now prefer front-wheel drive cars, motivating this best performance dynamics, economy, cross-country ability, stability, controllability.
Is it really? Let me say a few words in defense of the "classics".
The main thing that is reproached for cars with rear-wheel drive and an engine located in front is:
1. Poor loading of the drive wheels, which allegedly impairs the ability to start intensively from a standstill;
2. Poor patency caused by the same poor loading of the drive wheels;
3. Bad directional stability on slippery road in the form of a tendency to skid.
And now I ask you to accept my objections:
1. A few words about the intensive start from a place.
Pay attention to which cars are more likely to squeal tires on dry pavement when starting from a traffic light. Front wheel drive! And the reason most often is not that they are more powerful. It’s just that their drivers, in an effort to leave the traffic lights first, put too much pressure on the “gas” and release the clutch pedal too quickly, under the influence of inertia forces, the car’s weight transfers to the rear wheels (see figure), while the front drivers (!) Unload and lose traction with Expensive. As a result, there is a lot of noise, but little sense. In the "classics" everything happens exactly the opposite - the more intense the acceleration, the better grip the rear drive wheels with the road, and, accordingly, the start is more efficient. Not for nothing sports cars have rear axle drive.
For those who are especially meticulous, I can say that the amount of weight redistribution between the axles can be about 150-200 kg for a car weighing 1 ton. Do not believe me - count at your leisure at home:
with a car mass of 1000 kg and a weight distribution of 60% to 40% at rest, the front wheels press on the road with a total force of 600 kg, and the rear wheels - 400 kg. With an energetic start from a standstill, due to inertia, about 150 kg from the front wheels goes to the rear, the load on the rear wheels increases and, accordingly, their adhesion to the road increases.
If we are talking about a slippery road, then here, too, a competent driver of the “classic” can oppose his professionalism to the “teapot” on the “top ten”, i.e., compensate for the lack of adhesion of the drive wheels to the road by competent use of the laws of physics. Namely:
follow the five basic rules for a successful start:
A). Stop the car in advance with the driving wheels in the area with the best coefficient of adhesion;
b). Put the front wheels straight to avoid skidding when the wheels slip during acceleration;
V). Avoid slipping of the drive wheels at the initial moment (the first 1.5 - 2 turns) and generally avoid excessive "axle box";
G). Use the "false start" technique (start slow (1-2 km / h) movement until the green traffic light turns on);
e). Gradually increase traction as the drive rear wheels are loaded.
Of course, if a real Master is nearby in a front-wheel drive car, it will be difficult for you to win a start against him, but I think that the Master will not be engaged in “traffic light races” - this is the lot of young “dummies” who imagine themselves to be Schumachers.
By the way, a couple of passengers on back seat both practically offset the benefits front wheel drive to zero.
2. The main disadvantage of the "classics" is the low cross-country ability in conditions Russian winter. But even this shortcoming can be overcome. How? First of all, with the help of gaskets ... I'm talking about those between the steering wheel and the seat. Illiterate driving in difficult road conditions can negate the properties of a good winter tires, and layout features, and ground clearance, and engine power. By the way, often the cause of many winter traffic jams is nothing more than the lack of elementary driving skills for most drivers in ice.
So a few useful tips about how to increase the cross-country ability in the snow of a car of a classic layout, which are useful not only to know, but also to be able to use them:
A). The first tip is the most important: DON'T HURRY! By ignoring this advice, you risk not only being late for the scheduled meeting (“arrow”, work, date, visit), but also not showing up at all. So it's better to focus on the problem of extracting cars from snow captivity and don't look at the clock;
b). If you are not satisfied with the search perspective caterpillar tractor with a strong cable, I strongly recommend not to try to storm large unfamiliar snowdrifts from acceleration. It is better to overcome them slowly with small steps, so that there is an opportunity to return back;
V). To successfully move into loose snow, it is necessary to minimize the resistance of snow to the movement of the car, namely, to straighten the front wheels. First move the car from its place, and only then you will maneuver.
G). The first 1.5 - 2 revolutions of the wheels should be without slipping. The slightest slippage of the wheels at the initial moment delays the time of your arrival at the intended point by indefinite term. Further, after the start of the movement, you can allow a slight slip of the wheels. Putting pressure on the gas and grinding snow or ice is an absolutely hopeless occupation - you will only roll out the ice or dig even deeper into the snow;
e). If all else fails, try "buildup" (sometimes it makes sense to start with it right away). For those who don't know what it is:
Turn on the transmission and select free play clutch pedals. Now raise the engine speed a little higher than idle and briefly (0.5 sec.) 1-2 mm of the pedal travel, turn on and off the clutch. The car will rock forward and roll back. As soon as the backward movement stops, turn the clutch on and off again by 1-2 mm, but the second impulse may be a little longer, the car will sway forward with a larger amplitude and roll back again, the third impulse may be even longer and so on, try to get into resonance and swing like on a swing. When there are 2-3 meters of rolled track under the wheels, you can try to break out of the snow captivity. The main thing is not to slip, for which you can swing in second, or even in third gear.
e). And the last tip: put on the winter Winter tires- do not spoil the life of yourself and others. They will not replace the lack of driving skills, but for the Professional they will be a good help and reduce the chance of embarrassment.
3. Poor stability on slippery roads, the tendency to skid cars with a classic layout in the hands of a good driver turns into excellent handling. How else to explain the numerous victories of classic BMWs in road races? No guys! The problem is not in the type of drive, but again in the gasket between the steering wheel and the seat. Some oversteer, common to almost everyone classic car, allows a competent driver to take turns on asphalt, not only not slower, but even faster than on front wheel drive cars. This is one of the significant advantages of rear-wheel drive - “classic” allows you to start accelerating much earlier at the exit of a turn than “front-wheel drive”, which in a similar situation, due to its inherent understeer, tends to slip out.
As for skidding on a slippery road, the driver should not be afraid of skidding, but master it. And this does not require many years of experience. If you are afraid of skidding for many years, skill will not increase. You just need to carve out a little time for the sake of increasing your safety and strengthening the nervous system. 5-7 days of regular training under the guidance of a good coach will forever get rid of the fear of ice and the feeling of inferiority next to the front-wheel drive Ladas.
We have analyzed the results of several dozen amateur competitions in high-speed maneuvering in cars, held both in winter and in summer. And this is what happened: in the summer, the time for passing the test track the best drivers in the class of rear-wheel drive (classic) cars in some cases it was less than that of front-wheel drive cars, and in winter it turned out to be on the ice at the level of the top 10 times among 50 participants.
And one of the most experienced Russian ring players, Alexander Orlovsky, once said that rear drive more interesting to drive, because the rider is able to influence both axles, and front wheel drive car "rear axle just dangles behind his back, like a makeweight."
In conclusion, I want to remind you that the “classics” include not only “Moskvich-412” and “Lada-penny”, but also almost all models of “Mercedes”, “Jaguars”, “BMW” and many others. So talk about the "sucks" of cars with rear-wheel drive is nothing more than idle fantasies of amateurs. And an amateur on the road is dangerous regardless of the type of drive of his car.
How improve vehicle patency: reliable car enthusiast assistants
Every driver who has to do it often is ready to do everything possible to increase the cross-country ability of his vehicle. Why not, because with the help of modern and reliable devices it is quite real. When choosing devices, you need to clearly understand the capabilities of your " iron horse", because this is the only way to organize it normal operation and pick up best way raise
patency. And most importantly, the solution to this issue should be comprehensive. What to turn to
The main thing is that the motorist must solve the problem of increasing the geometric cross-country ability, reducing the rolling resistance of the car while driving the car off-road, increasing the traction of the drive axle, as well as the performance of the main components of the car.
What products exist today to increase patency?
These can include self-retracting anchor, traction control, track chain, snow chain (caterpillar and fine grain), and straps for increased flotation. If the car is moving off-road, then motorists can always connect a second axle (if possible). In this case, the adhesion force will increase significantly. In the most problematic areas, it is recommended to include downshifts, otherwise the traction force may not be enough to overcome the obstacle. On off-road it is better to avoid climbs (there is additional resistance). In this case, it is better not to force the speed.
The most popular devices for increasing the cross-country ability of a vehicle are. As already mentioned, they are caterpillar, small-link and track. Moreover, each type has its own characteristics.
Track chains
The use of these products will be very relevant when moving through snowy or swampy areas. They are very useful for overcoming ordinary obstacles in the wet. dirt road. But here it is extremely important to organize the correct tension, which is checked very simply: the track should be raised with a finger above the wheel to a height of about 5-8 millimeters.
Allows you to effectively move on unpaved, slippery and wet roads. You can use these devices to move on snowy or icy roads (here it is also very important correct installation– must move freely without crashing into the tires).
Track type chains
More suitable for trips on snowy and dirt swampy roads. At correct tension the upper branch should sag between the wheels by 1-1.5 cm. Track chains should be removed immediately after passing difficult area. Otherwise, damage may be pavement, "burn" a lot of gasoline and wear tires.
These devices are very useful if you need to get out of any serious "trap". Before mounting the traction control, it is necessary to fasten bracelet chains to the drive (preferably rear) wheels. In this case, the car will overcome the obstacle much faster.
Straps for increased flotation
The devices are very popular among drivers. This is not surprising, because these products are real helpers when it is necessary to overcome mud, snow and sand. They are very easy to use and easy to remove. Belts for cross-country ability are most useful for cars, SUVs, minibuses.
Vehicle passability- the ability of the car to move in difficult road conditions and off-road, using the wheel as a mover.
Increasing the cross-country ability of the car
Need in increase the vehicle's cross-country ability happens to many drivers. Next will be considered various ways increasing vehicle traffic. It should be noted that some improving the car's patency can be achieved in a fairly simple way.
Increasing the cross-country ability of the car– implementation of a number of constructive measures aimed at solving the following tasks:
Increase in geometric cross
Ensuring the performance of vehicle components and assemblies when overcoming various obstacles and water barriers
As you can see, engineering tasks and constructive measures to increase the vehicle's cross-country ability do not provide for the installation of a winch and so on. This is related to the fact that the winch does not increase the cross-country ability of the car as a vehicle using the wheel as a mover.
A winch (shovel, ax, jack, ladders, towing, etc.) refers to stuck car rescue systems. This also includes the call of the Chinook helicopter and other exotics.
Methods for improving vehicle cross-country ability
Reduced rolling resistance when driving on unpaved roads
Reduced rolling resistance when driving on unpaved roads solved in several ways.
At the stage of design study, the size of the track of the car is selected. To reduce rolling resistance on soft soils and virgin snow, the track width of all vehicle axles must be the same.
When driving on unpaved roads, it is of great importance that the track of the car correspond to the width of the road track, which is formed on a dirt road when the rest of the transport is moving.
Often, designers will coordinate the track width of light all-terrain vehicles and jeeps with the track width of the main ones. trucks. By the way, the main jeep of the Second World War had a narrow gauge, which did not match the gauge of the rest of the transport of that time. The dimensions of the jeep were set based on the capabilities of the transport aviation and fleet of that time. This made the jeep convenient for transferring over long distances, but it had a very negative effect on its cross-country ability. along the tracks of dirt roads.
The narrow track of this jeep did not affect the patency on rocky roads, fields and broken roads with advanced coverage.
The driver usually does not have the opportunity to influence the track of his car. In general, it is possible to adjust the track during operation only on some models. wheeled tractors, adapting it to the width of crops of various crops.
However, rolling resistance can be reduced in another way. Rolling resistance decreases with increasing wheel diameter. Therefore, by installing large-diameter wheels on the car, the driver somewhat reduces the rolling resistance.
There are other ways to reduce rolling resistance, but they are on vehicles with increased and high cross do not apply.
Installing large diameter wheels not only reduces rolling resistance, but also increases ground clearance - vehicle clearance.
Increasing the traction force on the drive wheels and increasing the grip of the drive wheels
Increasing the traction force on the drive wheels and increasing the grip of the drive wheels- this is the first thing that every driver strives to do if he wants to increase the cross-country ability of his car.
There is a huge amount methods of increasing the cross-country ability of vehicles by increasing the grip of the drive wheels with the road. Consideration of these methods is convenient to start with the simplest.
One of the simplest and effective ways increasing the car's patency on slippery, winter, snowy or clay roads is the use of snow chains.
Anti-skid chains
Anti-skid chains invented, designed, produced and used for a long time.
Anti-skid chains can be used equally successfully in winter and summer.
In countries where there is a ban on the use of winter tires with snow studs, snow chains are the only option when driving on snowy and difficult road sections.
Anti-skid chains may turn out to be almost the only means of increasing cross-country ability passenger car, who spends most of his time on city roads and highways.
Anti-skid chains are useful in a typical situation where the driver is summer tires in good weather went for a picnic or barbecue. In order to get to a place of rest, you usually need to leave the highway and drive along a field road to a reservoir or go to a clearing on the outskirts of the forest. On a dry road, driving a few hundred meters from the highway is not difficult.
If a thunderstorm with heavy rain passes by the end of the day, then getting back to the highway can be difficult and these 700-900 meters to the highway will be a real obstacle due to the fact that summer tires with a road tread pattern do not provide desired clutch with the soil of a field road, which became extremely slippery after a thunderstorm.
However, wearing anti-skid chains on the drive wheels, the driver will be able to return to the highway without resorting to outside help.
Anti-skid chains will help to get out of the mud, out of the snowy yard and in other situations when it is necessary temporarily improve vehicle patency and increase the grip of the driving wheels with the road.
Pros and cons of snow chains
Comparative compactness. Package with snow chains does not take up much space in the trunk of the car
Easy to use, mount and dismantle snow chains
Radical improved patency by increasing adhesion slippery surface. The improvement in permeability is especially noticeable when compared with summer tires with road tread pattern
Cons and disadvantages of snow chains
Anti-skid chains time consuming to assemble and dismantle
Anti-skid chains must be removed when leaving on a hard surface, otherwise it is possible accelerated wear tires and snow chains
Anti-skid chains impose restrictions on speed mode vehicle movement. It is not recommended to drive with snow chains faster than 40-50 km/h
Anti-skid chains increase the dimensions of the wheel, which can lead to rubbing against the fender liner (lockers) and parts of the car body. For this reason, on some vehicles with four-wheel drive, snow chains are only installed on the front axle wheels with more spacious wheel arches. It is recommended to use only chains with small links protruding no more than 15 mm beyond the dimensions of the tire
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Good luck on the roads!
It’s just interesting because you never know what the power supply is, after all, there are 2 cars with a front end, but somehow my hands don’t get to buy a full one, and I drive on the front end as much as bracelets with chains help (well, a mechanical winch with an anchor, but what about)
The question is: what is better for driving on shit: toothy rubber or chains / bracelets
And so purely for yourself: how to increase cross-country ability in the sand, does a 55% reduction in tire pressure give an advantage, and is it necessary to blow off all or only the leading ones?
P.S. you don’t need any type of jeep steers and the front end sucks and stuff like that, front-wheel drive is easier to get out of the shit than full shopping mall and the car is lighter and has one axle, source: own experience
Comments04/01/2014 20:49, mcn
It's better to put your eight, once you decide. If you are driving around the track on a Corolla, then it’s not worth it, it will affect handling. As a maximum, a self-block with a slight tightness, so that it clings only in the mud when it starts to slip. But for the sake of meager help, it’s not worth spending a gold piece, in my opinion. Therapy should be complex, as they say. And on the eight, which you seem to be preparing for the power supply, you can put it with a big interference, but only on the highway if you drive from time to time and not fast. In general, people quite successfully put the suspension from the Niva on the eights, all together. Here you can also lock the center axles from the button and raise it higher and everything else that you wanted there. But I already said like, everything has its purpose and its special characteristics, it’s not worth it to make an SUV out of a sedan and vice versa.
You can order in any service that orders spare parts on the Internet or in special motorsport stores.
04/01/2014 22:06, subarist
Corolla also walks well on shit at speed, I managed to get into it rally suspension long-stroke put and jump fly on a gravel road like rally car but in appearance it seems that it is an ordinary sedan) okay, but without blocking it is possible to ride on bracelets or chains at least somehow? I recently drove into a swampy meadow on it and just started to slip, put on 4 bracelets for each wheel and you know .... I went and then drowned with a fool (there was a winch and a tree anyway) and the car instantly sat on the bottom and the wheels drilled a hole. ..well, I got out ... I decided to ride on flat wheels ... I blew it down to 0.9 atm and drove slowly and moreover, you know, more confidently than at 2 atmospheres with bracelets in the swamp, although while pulling the car rear wheels almost on the disk they went into the ground ... I also became interested in what is better if you drive through a swampy meadow (I had to) better wheels blow off (and how much so that it doesn’t depressurize yet, because I don’t know how to put on the tubeless back and blew off that it was only up to 0.8 several times and then a point) or put on bracelets (the chains are clogged with dirt, clean the hell out)
p.s. significant difference in the patency of a free diff and a blocked one? how to bring the values of the first one closer together?
04/02/2014 00:01, mcn
The difference is that when the car hits an unstable surface, such as mud or ice, the differential turns off the axle and only the wheel that experiences the least resistance, that is, the wheel that is slipping, spins. The lock allows all the wheels on the axle to spin, that is, if the coating under the second wheel is more reliable, it will crawl out along it.
04/02/2014 13:42, subarist
Is it possible to block the diff on your own avoiding welding or contact someone to do it on the car? I just can’t find it on mine (Corolla 2010), basically this car, I already have a rally car there, I want to finalize it, imagine how an average static slightly overpriced sedan is worn over bumps and fields and how jeepers look at it on the side of the road? This is how I drive to the dacha and traffic jams for me are a vague concept outside the Moscow Ring Road
03/30/2014 02:01 PM, ABI
I ride as much as bracelets with chains help (well, a mechanical winch with an anchor, but what about) - tough ... if you ride with a winch and with chains on wheels, advice from here will hardly help you.
What will big wheels give, for example, instead of 205/55 r16, insert 215/66 r17 and how will it affect consumption, handling, throughput and CV joint life?
Let's calculate 205*0.55 = 112.75, 215*0.66=141.9
141,9-112,75 = 29,15
29,15 + 25,4 = 54,55
those. in theory, the clearance should increase by 54 mm, in fact it will be somewhere around 40 mm.
Consumption will increase by 15% on average, because the wheels are wider, you will use the car more often in 1-2-3 gears (due to the difference in diameter).
Handling will be worse because. the center of gravity is higher, this is partially offset by the increased track.
The resource of the CV joint and the entire suspension will decrease, it all depends on the departure of your new disks. If you manage to shove the rubber without using wheels with a long reach, then it will be better.
Cross-country ability - if you have an automatic transmission, then you will lose in any case, if you have a mechanic - then the cross-country ability will fall to 2 liters of volume, and if the engine is more than 2 liters, then you will win in cross-country ability.
There is not enough clearance - do not warm your head, put spacers.
In general, I don’t believe you that you decided to go somewhere on 205/55 r16, it breaks through such rubber on every bump, nominal pressure under 3 points, what kind of sand are you talking about?
03/31/2014 10:21 AM, subarist
about loose sand
Do spacers kill suspension?
Advise then a tire in size and width that does not greatly affect the suspension, but at least somehow increases the cross-country ability and I don’t understand a little, I just realized if the offset changes at the wheel in any direction, then it’s shitty, how to return it to the previous one if you still change? Just put wider tires and nothing
04/03/2014 19:34, ABI
Do not sect brain. Trying to ride the 2010 King in the mud is stupid.
Can you real way suggest how to get pepelats.
So you are going to buy such tires and wheels for 17, it will cost decently, and so you act like this:
You buy for 40 eight years fresh and with a whole bottom.
Next, you need to buy front springs (you can also rear ones), look at the stiffness (they used to be marked yellow if I am not mistaken). A differential lock, as well as limited slip differentials, cost a penny on the frets (thanks to the lovers of tuning this halam) and are sold in any store. The next step is to buy two Belshin BI-509 cylinders (not produced but can be found at the collapse). Rubber is best for mud.
I can guarantee you that this pelvis is going better than fields with less expense and more comfort. Drives almost everywhere. And most importantly, don't be sorry.
And your car, up to the first stump, off-road ... I feel you have probably never caught a bumper by the roots in a puddle?
04/04/2014 01:16, subarist
I climbed on the Corolla like you say with anti-skid bracelets, but still I think it’s to stir it up, she’s fucking worried normally, but if we stump something I’ll take off, alas, I don’t have a front end there is a full drive and there are no cardan gearboxes that, although there is a small risk of bending / there is a break, friends on the Renault symbol and Mazda 626 climb exactly like this, I thought that I would do something like a Corolla, although she herself drives normally, but however, I don’t argue with you that yes, she’s hemp or something else, the bottom is very unpleasantly grinding, but it rides and nothing breaks but the bottom is a little crumpled ( engine compartment closed with an almine sheet) I think how on rally cars I will straighten the bottom from dents and cover it with protection, there are days and there will be norms, but on the Corolla :) oh yes, although the blocking is not enough, it is replaced by send trucks and you can drive without blocking, but if we allow for a firebox I’ve cleared the terrain, although it’s possible to start weakly but not always, 70/30 the wheel starts to dig sharply, well, I put something and I’m passing, it seems to be going, I think it’s blocked on eBay in America to look at it there, it’s being tuned
04/12/2014 08:40, ABI
I don’t have a front end there, and there are no cardan gearboxes, which, although there is a small risk of bending / breaking, my friends on Renault Symbol and Mazda 626 climb exactly like that, I thought that I would do something like a Corolla, although she herself drives normally, but
Dick when when you can bend the bridge or pull out the cardan, you need to "be able" to.
But off-road grenades on Corollas (as well as other "bridgeless" cars) fall out only on the way, then you will climb in puddles and the dropped drive will look for it in best case if its other end does not fuck somewhere in the crankcase with all its dope.
Mazda 626 was drowned last year (a man fell through the crossing in the spring), the water rose to the floor, i.e. covered the rug. The result - the engine somehow pulled water (h.z. how), knocked out the stuffing box and all the oil came out through it.
The result - the liners stuck, the end of the dviglo.
In the fall, something like it was sold for parts for a penny.
04/12/2014 08:43, ABI
I think how on rally cars I will straighten the bottom from dents and cover it with protection,
Prikalist .. let's straighten it :) You can immediately cut off all the spars and amplifiers with a grinder so that you have a screw wrapped around the car on the first bump. :)
If there is a detail, then why is it needed.
That's why I spoke to you on 8-9 matches. the bottom is flat.
04/14/2014 18:41, marauder
All this is nonsense. Want passable car- Get an SUV. Yes, the front-wheel drive is easier to pull out, but where it has to be pulled out, the SUV will pass easily. As an example, I have a NIVA and 2108, there is dirt near the house, I park the car there. While driving a NIVA, I didn’t pay attention to the dirt at all, there were no slippages at the exit, nothing like that. It was worth putting 2108 where I put ZhiP, sat down right away. Yes at all-wheel drive more parts that can break, but they also have more resources.
15.04.2014 01:31, subarist
for sure, without chains, I climbed in the place of your jeep, so I sat down :) with a friend in a Toyota Hilux we drove through .... a dried-up swamp ... well, I think I can not tell further;) they couldn’t pull it out and went home for a Corolla .... with during acceleration, I drove through this entire plane, scraping the bottom and got out with a slip on more or less solid ground (although the earth springs there too) as it rained evilly and the Corolla sat down on the ground in front of our eyes ... the result ... the winch pulled out the Corolla first in just 5 minutes , drove it away somehow (it buries itself but goes) because the hilux is heavy and the soil, unlike the Corolla, would not have been pulled out, then I had to stupidly swan for it :) and let’s let it slide to the jeep in this slurry ... I planted the handbrake and the gas valve immediately on the bottom of the car and the jeep pulled out safely ... (and then again buried itself pulling the Corolla)
18.04.2014 21:02, TAI
Damn, you would still take the tundra to ride through the swamps. although the hyulix is not much smaller. not fig. these monsters in the forest and swamps to do, we must not forget about the weight of the car and its base. shit question, these monsters are passable, but damn it, if you plant him, this is a pissant ....
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An optimist learns English.
The pessimist learns Chinese.
And only a realist studies the Kalashnikov assault rifle.
04/19/2014 02:25 PM
We can pass any car weighing up to one and a half tons, but it is better to have a mechanical winch and an anchor in stock (preferably with an amplifier for soft soils)
In the summer I pulled out a sea of jeeps from the sands and cars with the help of my kit, sorting out from hell doing in the summer along the beach on the Corolla and then burrowing somewhere myself ... I scraped a bunch of dough pulling out people and, moreover, pulled out everyone, starting from Skoda Fabia Rapid Lanos and ending with all sorts of land cruisers Tuareg tundras (pulled everyone out) but the question is time ... cars up to 10 minutes of pulling out, jeeps (except for Suzuki Jimny and Niva, they also fall into the category of up to one and a half tons) to pull out from 7 to an hour or more minutes ... winch for 5 tons and 2 steel cables (I haven’t torn anything yet) I sometimes burrowed myself, but it’s only a pleasure for me to go out and work a little with the lever to my favorite music
