Autonomous heaters: Warm and dry. Autonomous heater - the guarantor of a comfortable temperature in the car

Remember how the great Mendeleev was indignant: “Oil is not fuel, you can also heat banknotes!” But then the scale of extraction and burning of this valuable chemical raw material could not be compared with the current ones. And even today, when almost all transport is powered by oil products, heating boilers and boilers with fuel oil is considered a luxury from poverty and hopelessness - in developed countries they use much cheaper and renewable energy sources. But all these macroeconomic truths are crossed out by a simple everyday situation: night, frost, KAMAZ with a truck on the side of the highway ... And the driver facing a dilemma: whether to use engine cylinders as heating boilers, setting the parameter of instantaneous fuel consumption to infinity, or, tightening "in that steppe-and deaf-froze the coachman…”, to repeat the fate of the hero of the folk song?

money in the pipe

On Idling The KAMAZ engine consumes about 8 liters of fuel per hour, and the engines of most foreign-made tractors, threshing on the spot, are not particularly economical. Simple calculations show that even in temperate climate central zone of Russia for cabin heating during night stops every season fly away "down the pipe" at least 60,000 rubles! From every car. And this is without taking into account the cost of premature overhaul of the engine, hundreds of hours of rubbing the pistons of the cylinder idling. What can we say about our northern regions, where during the time of the state diesel fuel there was a “good” tradition to start the engine at the end of October in order to drown it in early April ... "with the supply of combustion products to the engine crankcase, which, in the absence of current oils, ensured the melting of the gel-like M8G2 and the subsequent start-up even in bitter cold. However, the prestarter does not solve the problem of cabin heating - by driving heated antifreeze through the cooling system, it dissipates most of the power - at least 14 kW out of 15 developed - in the engine compartment, that is, it heats mainly environment. In addition, the pre-starter will heat the standard KAMAZ “stove” simultaneously with the heavy engine, that is, for a very long time and up to a maximum of 60 degrees. What in hard frost obviously not enough - even sitting behind the wheel will be cold, not to mention a berth. And the roar of a 15-kilowatt burner is not very conducive to sound and healthy sleep. Autonomous liquid heaters also have an objective technical flaw- high (90–130 W) power consumption by the water pump - it is not uncommon for an old battery to be completely "planted" in the morning, and instead of leaving the line in a warm cab, the driver will have to fuss with wires and "Katyusha" in the cold. It is no coincidence that with the factory optional installation of pre-starters, for example, on german cars, usually comes with the heater additional battery. Another thing is the air "autonomous", working on the principle of a hair dryer, as, by the way, it is called in driver's slang. The cooling of the heat exchanger by the flow of air taken from the cab and, of course, exiting back into the cab, is not as intense as with liquid, therefore, when equal power The “hair dryer” turns out to be more overall than the pre-launcher. But he does not need the power of the latter, because almost all the energy from the burnt fuel (with the exception of 3–5%, which is carried away by exhaust gases heated to 300–400 ° C) is released in the form of heat in the car cabin, then dissipating into the environment by its walls and glasses. Two kilowatts of "air vent" is enough to suit the driver main truck or the driver of a truck crane, excavator, etc. a real "Tashkent". With a power of 4 kW, there is plenty of heat even during a winter overnight stay in Yakutia, but 8-9-kilowatt units heat the salons big buses. At times, the smaller volume of the flame ensures noiseless operation - no roar of a "blowtorch", like in liquid heater, not at all. Only low-power consumers consume energy from the battery - even in the 4-kilowatt mode of maximum output, the current from a 24-volt battery does not exceed 2 A, and at a power of 1.5 kW - only 0.5 A. That is, during a long winter night, the battery does not will spend even a twentieth of its capacity. Fuel consumption in such a moderate mode will be about 0.2 liters per hour, that is, 40 (!) Times less than that of a KAMAZ engine at idle. But not only savings play in favor of an autonomous heater - the growing intolerance of society towards air pollution is also important. European culture is gradually penetrating into the environment of our truckers - many of them, having traveled around the world and installed all sorts of "airtronics" in their cabs, have already begun to forget how they once coughed at night, inhaling gray smoke from your own and neighboring diesel engines. Today, without turning off the engine in the collective parking lot, you run the risk of hearing a baseball bat knock on the door in five minutes. And you settle down with your rattling for an overnight stay in the city, an empty bottle will be thrown from the balcony immediately “to defeat” - into the roof of the cabin. Without a warning throw on the asphalt ... And don't be surprised that it was the Germans, with their warm, near zero degrees, winters, who became adept at producing autonomous heaters. Yes, in Europe, truckers - all without exception - sleep in comfortable three-star motels, but they also have to stand for an hour or two in a warehouse or customs under the chilly Baltic wind. And what else will keep you warm, if not with a “hair dryer”, when the law prohibits threshing at idle? In Russia, the path of distribution of air heaters is painful, long and thorny - among the people of this type of "stove" is firmly associated with the word "Zaporozhets" and is subjectively perceived as a thing that is already of poor quality in its essence. Experienced drivers still have fresh in their memory pictures of “humpbacked” and “eared” suddenly smoking right on the go, and someone forever imprinted the spectacle of a burning gasoline track running after a car with an unsuspecting driver ... Extreme capriciousness autonomous heaters(they were produced for Melitopol minicars by the Shadrinsk auto-aggregate plant) forced the owners to look for any alternative, such as winding thick copper wire on exhaust pipes for direct heat transfer to the cabin - just to get rid of the hated, annoying smell of gasoline and burning of the unit. But years passed, a wave of “used” foreign cars rolled in, including minibuses, and Russia finally knew what an autonomous heater “made by hand” is. Skillful hands...

Everything ingenious is simple

So, let's take a closer look at the "air vent" device. The principle of operation for products from different manufacturers is the same - the fuel supplied by an external electromagnetic pump embedded in the line closer to the tank (it is always easier to pump than to suck in), is dosed, under the control of electronics, enters the combustion chamber, or rather, to the evaporator. The latter is a heat-resistant body with a sufficiently large surface area - usually it is a package of wire meshes made of refractory "stainless steel". An electric glow plug with a ceramic rod is installed in front of the evaporator (open coils are a thing of the past). Air is supplied to the combustion chamber by a supercharger driven by an electric motor shaft; in the same place, at the inlet, cold end of the heater, there is the electronic unit control - overheating does not threaten its microcircuits. The fins on the outer surface of the heat exchanger, where hot gases from the combustion chamber enter, are blown by air from the cab - it is driven by a fan mounted on the motor shaft behind the blower impeller. A wiring harness is laid from the control panel to the control panel installed on the instrument panel, and since the communication channel on modern units is usually digital, only three wires are enough: “plus”, “minus” and signal. The rotary knob or buttons on the remote control can set several heater operation modes - depending on the selected one, the processor will set the required fan speed and fuel supply volume. Temperature maintenance is monitored by sensors: one can be built into the control panel or at the entrance air flow into the heater, the other is remote, and they put it, for example, at bed by pulling a separate bundle of wires there. The heat exchanger overheat sensor (thermal switch) is a safety element, it sends a signal to the control unit, demanding to stop the fuel supply.

When the heater is turned on, the processor diagnoses all systems and starts the program. The voltage on the glow plug gradually increases, then fuel and air are supplied to the combustion chamber, the combustion process begins, controlled by the control unit according to the signals of the flame sensor built into the heat exchanger. When combustion stabilizes, the candle is turned off, and the flame is subsequently maintained by a continuous supply of fuel. If, for some reason, ignition did not occur - for example, due to the thickening of summer diesel fuel in frost, the entire cycle is automatically repeated. After two unsuccessful attempts, the heater automatically turns off, the indicator on the control panel lights up, and at the command of the processor, the blower blows the combustion chamber for several minutes. After that, you can again try to ignite. However, if the fuel corresponds to the season, then such emergency situations on a modern heater that is regularly cleaned of carbon deposits are extremely rare, and after ignition, the control unit maintains combustion at maximum mode, comparing the temperature value set by the driver on the control panel with the air temperature in the cab. If the latter is lower than the set value, the heater continues to work on " full throttle”, and when it reaches the desired, the fuel supply is reduced. It happens that the cabin becomes even hotter than required - then the processor gives the fuel pump a break, and orders the supercharger to purge the combustion chamber with fresh air. When the temperature drops, for example, by 2 degrees below the one set by the regulator, a digital command arrives: “Mahmud! Light it up! ”, and the procedure for heating the candle with the subsequent supply of fuel is initiated according to the scenario described above. As you can see, the claimed autonomy of air heaters of all, without exception, firms is very conditional, since any such unit is rigidly tied to a car battery, and battery death far from populated areas is fraught with death for the driver. Nevertheless, designers are in no hurry to create completely independent "hair dryers", although, at first glance, there are no technical obstacles to this. Indeed, what is there some 40 watts consumed from the battery, if excess 2 kilowatts are released during fuel combustion? Why is it impossible to rotate the shaft with a stream of combustible gases, why does the “hair dryer”, in general, need an electric motor? And the thermocouple will pull quite well and fuel pump, and electronics. Ignition - squib. And you don't need a battery. Alas, not everything is so simple. The distant resemblance of the "air vent" with gas turbine engine does not mean anything, and by making the flame not only heat, but also rotate, we will create an almost unsolvable problem of noise. That is, you will have to sleep under a jet howl. Not to mention the inevitable difficulties with the selection of heat from the exhaust gases, because no one needs a “stove” that consumes fuel like an airplane. Yes, and in terms of the level of technology, the turbine and the hair dryer, to put it mildly, differ - the cabin heater for thousands of commercials for twenty (euro) is unlikely to find demand. So, in the foreseeable future, there is no need to wait for fully autonomous “air vents”.

Air heater: choose me

And now about the features of heaters specific brands. The German "autonomous" Webasto and Eberspaeher are considered reference - many of the technical solutions implemented by the engineers of these firms regularly appear on competitors' products - with or without licenses. main feature thoroughbred Germans - a solid aluminum heat exchanger, this design provides best efficiency unit, but requires a sufficiently high production culture. The prices of heaters of both companies are approximately the same - about 29,000 rubles for a 2-kilowatt "air vent" and about 37,000 rubles for a 3.5-4 kilowatt one. One of the non-principal differences between different design schools is in the form of an evaporator: Webasto places it around the perimeter of the combustion chamber, and Eberspeher - at the end. Webasto has a brushless electric motor, a low-noise fan and a combustion chamber with a heat-resistant ceramic-metal gasket. A wide range of allowable positions allows you to install the heater at an angle of up to 90 degrees from the horizon. "Horse" Webasto - convenient diagnostics: by switch or timer signals, by analysis exhaust gases or using a computer. The self-diagnosis system displays malfunctions by issuing one of 15 codes. The temperature regulator is also a heating switch. Remote temperature sensor on a cable up to 5 m long - an option. The "Comfort" set includes a timer that turns on the heater at the set time. Air Top - this is how Webasto designates most of the models in its line of "air vents". Modern models Eberspaecher air heaters are called Airtronic - four are enough to cover the power range from 2 to 8 kW. Among the advantages - high efficiency and silent fan with stepless speed control. System option list radio remote control with a range of up to 1000 m.

The Czech company Brano is represented by two models: the 2-kilowatt Breeze III and the twice as powerful Wind III. The design of the heat exchanger is like that of the Germans, that is, aluminum casting, and the prices are more attractive. Temperature adjustment is smooth - from 15 to 30 ° C, among the options there is a timer.

Mikuni's "air vents" - the one that is famous for its carburetors - are exotic in our market. The design is solid, because it is based on a license from Eberspaecher, but the lack of a network as wide as that of the Germans service centers while holding back the spread of famous Japanese quality heaters.

oldest of domestic manufacturers autonomous heaters - SHAAZ. Ancient and very low-tech, as it should be in the defense industry, the design of Shadrin's heat exchangers (they are welded by hand from stainless steel) has one significant advantage over German casting - production flexibility. Master the heater special purpose and a special configuration for the plant is easier than ever - there would be a customer with money. The buyer of a large-scale heater can only rely on the qualifications of welders - if the heat exchanger is made to last, there will be no fistulas and other holes fraught with the penetration of carbon monoxide into the cabin. IN production line 5 models of “air vents” of traditional design remain at SHAAZ - with a capacity of 2 to 11 kW, and, in addition, two have gone into series the latest unit With electronic control: 2 and 8 kilowatt. But they are much more expensive, for example, 02 costs 16,000 rubles versus 10,000 rubles for O15 of equal power.

At the Rzhev plant "Eltra-Thermo", on the contrary, they used the most advanced solution, making the heat exchanger one-piece, like the Germans. Moreover, the aluminum fins in it are hollow, that is, the surface heated from the inside by combustible gases turned out to be much larger than that of foreign analog heat exchangers, which gives good prospects for increasing efficiency. So far, the Rzhevites have only one "air" model - "Pramotronik-4D-24". The kit for 13,000 rubles includes a 12-liter tank for autonomous power supply of the “stove”, diesel fuel diluted with gasoline - in severe frost.

The Samara plant "Advers", which supplies its "Planar" heaters for the assembly of KAMAZ vehicles, truck cranes and other special equipment, offers "air vents" not only in 24-volt, but also in 12-volt version, because, for example, american trucks"Light" voltage of the on-board network.

The design feature is an aluminum heat exchanger assembled from two halves. The price of a set with a 7.5-liter tank is 12,500 rubles. gas fuel- they are made by the German company Truma. The demand for such is very limited, but for an old gasoline tractor converted to propane-butane, you can’t imagine anything better than a 2.4-kilowatt Trumatic E 2400 unit.

As you know, the quality of the cabin heater on domestic cars leaves much to be desired. And if you can put up with this problem on passenger cars, then on commercial vehicles - no. After all, sometimes you have to transport goods to long distance. Some are refining regular stove, but the result is not The most correct choice is to install autonomy. It is also installed on the Gazelle. Well, let's look at what is given element and how to install it.

Characteristic

(or in the language of drivers “hair dryer”) is a device that serves to heat the cab, as well as the engine. In the latter case, the "hair dryer" is called a preheater. The autonomy itself is a small device measuring 25 by 20 centimeters.

Installed in the cabin or in the engine compartment. Represents a separate autonomous engine. Usually runs on diesel. But some put gas autonomy on the Gazelle. Additionally, a timer is placed in the cabin, thanks to which the device is programmed. On expensive models type "Webasto" start can be done from the key fob, remotely. The heater is powered by onboard network 12 or 24 volts. Fuel for combustion is taken from a tank or from a separate container (usually a small, 10-liter plastic tank). Thus, when the mixture is burned, thermal energy is generated, which is then sent to the passenger compartment. The car engine itself can be turned off. The autonomy is a parking heater and works regardless of the standard stove or engine. By the way, traffic fumes are discharged through separate tubes to the outside. Thus, the driver gets a clean and warm air in the cabin.

Varieties

The autonomy on the Gazelle can be different. There are several types of heater data:

• Dry.
• Wet.

Dry autonomy - more cheap option heater. However, this "hair dryer" is deprived of the function of heating the engine. It does not connect to the system internal combustion engine cooling. Therefore, during operation, it only heats the interior or cabin. Reviews say that this type of car is not suitable for diesel vehicles. Therefore, it is reasonable to install it only on the Gazelle with ZMZ and UMZ engines. Although some bet on Cummins. But in this case, the system will not be preheated. The engine is harder to start in cold weather.

Wet Autonomy

They are installed mainly on heavy trucks. Their peculiarity is that they interact with the coolant (hence the characteristic name) of the engine. During operation, heat is generated to heat not only the cabin, but also the motor itself.

Experienced motorists know how hard it is to start diesel engine After all, not only diesel fuel thickens, but also oil. crankshaft it is very difficult to turn in such conditions. An autonomous heater is able to increase the temperature of the engine up to 40 degrees Celsius. This is a significant plus for diesel cars.

Manufacturers

The main manufacturers of wet autonomy:

• "Webasto".
• "Ebersprecher".

Additionally, the systems can be equipped with a GSM module with the ability to program the launch of an autonomous system. But the trouble is that the cost of such heaters starts from 50 thousand rubles. And if for a truck tractor of the Volvo type this is a small expense, then for a low-tonnage Gazelle it is a significant waste of money. In addition, the volume of the cabin they have is different. And Webasto mainly produces autonomy for 2-3 kilowatts. As practice has shown, one and a half kilowatts of energy is enough for the Gazelle. The question arises: which autonomy to choose?

"Planar"

This Russian analogue"Webast". For the Gazelle, an autonomy from the 2D series is ideal. Reviews note that this model perfectly heats the cabin even at -30 degrees. The initial cost of such a heater is 22 thousand rubles.

Additionally, the model can be equipped with a GSM modem. If this autonomy is installed on a Gazelle with a diesel engine, it should be understood that this “hair dryer” is dry and is not a starting heater. Nevertheless, the device does an excellent job with its main function - cabin heating. Autonomy, installed on the Gazelle, has the following technical characteristics:

• The maximum power is 1.8 kilowatts.
• Fuel consumption - 240 milliliters per hour.
• The volume of heated air is 75 cubic meters per hour.
• The fuel used is diesel.
• Rated power - 12 or 24 V.
• Start mode - manual.
• The total weight is 10 kilograms.

Equipment

The package "Planara 2D" includes:

• Heater.
• Fuel tank 7 liters.
• Remote Control.
• Fittings, hoses and fasteners.

An autonomy is installed on the Gazelle with your own hands or in a service center.

It is recommended to carry out installation in specialized workshops. Do-it-yourself installation will automatically void your warranty. Fortunately, those who sell such heaters also produce installation. You can put a "hair dryer" right on the spot. In time, it takes no more than four hours. The installation cost does not exceed five thousand rubles. Below we will look at how the installation is done.

How to install autonomy on the Gazelle?

First you need to decide on a place. Where is the autonomy usually installed on the Gazelle? Often it is hidden under the passenger double seat. So it needs to be taken out. This seat is mounted on four studs with bolts. We need a key for 10 (preferably with a ratchet). Do not forget to put all the washers and nuts in a separate box and take the seat out.

The chair is moderately light, so you can handle it alone. Next, we bend part of the floor upholstery and drill a few technological holes. They must correspond to the outer diameter of the tubes that go to the fuel supply and exhaust gases. Then we connect the tank. It can be placed between the cabin and the booth - this is the cleanest place. But make sure that after installation you have normal access to filler neck.

Next, we lay the fuel hoses and, passing through the holes created, connect them to the autonomy. Now the electrical part remains. You need to apply "plus" and "minus" from the battery. Wires are laid under the floor. Near the gearshift lever there is a joint of the floor covering - between it we draw a cord. It is displayed to the battery through a small hole in the lower right side of the cab. If you look from the side of the engine compartment, it will be located immediately behind the battery (slightly higher and hidden by an elastic band). The timer is connected according to the scheme, which is indicated in the instruction manual. The block itself is brought up and attached to the rear wall (between the driver's and passenger's seats). If you have a sleeping bag installed, you will need a corrugation with a length of at least two meters. It is important that it is heat-resistant: the air from the autonomy is very hot, and the plastic can melt. We connect the corrugation through the splitter and pull it onto the sleeping bag. A hole of the appropriate diameter is made in the roof. The corrugation is laid at the right edge of the passenger seat. This is how the autonomy is installed on the Gazelle. It remains only to put the regular seat in place and fix it on the same nuts.

Conclusion

So, we found out how the autonomy is installed on the Gazelle and why this element is needed. Autonomous heater - very useful thing For truck. With it, you will forget the eternal problems with a regular stove, because it will grab your eyes.

The problem of starting a cold engine start at low temperatures is well known to every car owner. The power unit is difficult to start in cold weather, the degree of wear of loaded engine parts increases during such starts. also in winter period significantly reduced operating comfort Vehicle, since the warm-up time and the interior space to an acceptable level can be significantly increased.

To effectively solve these problems, the car can be equipped with a preheater. There are several types of such devices, while liquid engine heaters of the Webasto type have the best autonomy and performance.

In this article, we intend to talk about how much Webasto costs with installation, what features and nuances it involves installing Webasto on Gas engine or diesel unit, as well as how to install Webasto on a car yourself.

Read in this article

Is it worth installing Webasto

So, if the car is operated in a region with frosty and long winters, it is used in similar conditions as commercial transport, the driver wants to increase the comfort of operation in winter, etc., then the question is regarding the installation preheater becomes especially relevant.

In the case of Webasto, the answer will be yes, even taking into account the rather high initial cost of such a heater and its installation. On average, to buy and install Webasto will cost from 40 to 100 thousand rubles. for the device itself (depending on the type of vehicle), as well as about 15 thousand rubles. for installation.

However, such a preheater will allow you to start the engine in any frost, the total increases. We also note that the warming up of the engine and interior with an autonomous heater before the trip is noticeably reduced, which allows us to talk about fuel economy (especially in relation to).

What is Webasto? The principle of operation of autonomous preheaters. Advantages and disadvantages liquid heater and air heater (hair dryer).

Engine start at low temperatures difficult and leads to significant wear. Do-it-yourself Webasto installation not only allows you to solve this problem, but also guarantees the start power unit in any conditions. Starting heaters are primarily needed for diesel engines, which often fail in winter due to an increase in fuel viscosity. An additional convenience of the autonomous heater is the possibility of heating the passenger compartment and creating a comfortable microclimate. Not so long ago, we compared Hydronic and Webasto and found out which one is better. Now we will tell you how to install Webasto yourself.

Description and purpose of the Webasto autonomous heater

The heater from the German manufacturer Webasto is a device that raises the temperature of the engine to make it easier to start. For this purpose, the auxiliary heater draws fuel from the vehicle tank, which is burned in the combustion chamber. The heat generated heats up the antifreeze in the machine's heat exchanger, which is connected to the car's cooling system.

The built-in pump circulates the liquid along a small circuit and heats the power unit and the elements of the power system installed on it. As a result, favorable conditions are formed for starting the engine. It is quite possible to install Webasto on a car on your own, provided exactly following the instructions manufacturer.

Equipment set

Preheater trademark Webasto is delivered to the consumer in the form of a complete set of elements necessary for installation. The device consists of the following components:

1. heater;
2. electronic control unit;
3. coolant circulation pump;
4. sets of fittings for connection to the fuel system and cooling circuits;
5. fuel dosing pump;
6. exhaust muffler with pipe;
7. air intake;
8. set of mounting brackets and fasteners.

The pre-heater is supplied to the consumer in cardboard box with technical documentation and user manual. Kits designed for installation on different types engines differ in characteristics and composition of equipment. This circumstance must be taken into account when choosing a heater for your car.

How to install Webasto on gasoline

Installation work Webasto heater take quite a long time and are recommended to be done indoors. In addition, it is necessary to organize good lighting, including with the help of a portable lamp. The process of installing Webasto on a car with your own hands is carried out in the following sequence:

After returning and connecting the battery, the installation of Webasto heaters can be considered completed. Now we produce trial run engine and let it idle for a few minutes. We add antifreeze to the norm and now you can try to turn on the heater. In some cases, the first start may be unsuccessful due to the lack of fuel in the supply line. It takes some time to fill it, and when you turn it on again, the autonomous heater will definitely start working.

How to install Webasto on a diesel

The device and delivery set for different power units are largely identical. Do-it-yourself Webasto installation process on a diesel power unit almost completely coincides with the installation of the device on a gasoline engine. This operation is described in detail above, and it does not make sense to repeat. However, there are a number of nuances that must be taken into account when performing work:

1. Pipelines from the heater to the stove lines should be located close to the fuel pipes. This will increase the temperature of the fuel, which will make it easier to start the engine.
2. The intake of fuel from the tank can be done through the line low pressure by tapping into it using the appropriate tee.
3. When installing the dosing pump, one should take into account the requirement for a minimum distance from it to the tank, which should not exceed 1200 mm, which will ensure stable operation of the heater in all modes.

The do-it-yourself Webasto installation video given in this article will help you visualize the whole process and simplify the solution of the task. Exact adherence to the proposed instructions and compliance with the recommendations of the equipment manufacturer will allow you to correctly install. This circumstance will provide uptime starting preheater during operation.

Installing Webasto - video

The question of buying an autonomous heater (AO), as a rule, comes to the mind of motorists with the onset of cold weather. Indeed, sometimes it is more practical to use an auxiliary heater than to make the motor function on idling to warm up the cabin. In this article we will talk about the design, types and method of installing the device on our own.

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Characteristics of an independent heater

Let's start with the characteristics of gasoline, diesel or electric AO at 12 volts. It should be noted that in practice a gasoline autonomous heater is one of the most reliable. If necessary, the driver can activate only the interior heating, and not all elements of the vehicle. The auxiliary heater can be equipped with various functions, including a timer, as well as a pre-start device. During operation of the AO, the cabin or interior of the vehicle can be warmed up in a few minutes.

Which AO device (consider the example of a diesel unit):

1. Node with a combustion chamber. This component is one of the main components of the system.
2. The autonomous interior heater is equipped with its own gas pipeline, which is connected to a common line and feeds the system itself, depending on whether the engine is functioning or not.
3. The exhaust system, which is equipped with an autonomous interior heater, is designed to release exhaust gases. Gas can be released behind the fenders or under the engine.
4. The device kit also includes clamps for its installation in the engine compartment.
5. One of the main structural elements that the parking heater has is the control unit. This component can be push-button or remote, its installation is carried out in the vehicle interior.
6. Other items intended for correct operation systems in various conditions. Their availability varies by manufacturer.

This is a very handy thing, which, moreover, prolongs the life of your engine!

Principle of operation

How does a 12 or 24 volt petrol or electric parking heater work? The principle of operation of such a stove is similar to the principle of operation of a conventional hair dryer - the system simply heats the air flow entering the car interior as a result of fuel combustion. Depending on the type of system, fuel consumption during operation is around 100 grams per hour, but this figure may be different, depending on the manufacturer (the author of the video is Alexander Termokirov).

The principle of operation is as follows:

1. First, thanks to the fan, a cold air stream is driven from the vehicle interior.
2. This air stream is heated in the combustion chamber of gasoline, diesel or electric AO at 12 or 24 volts.
3. After heating, the air again enters the cabin.

Kinds

As for the types of AO for a car, there can be three of them, depending on which part of the car they will heat:

1. Air. Autonomous air heaters allow you to warm up only the air in the vehicle interior. As a rule, this type of AO is a traditional fan that simply heats the air.
2. Liquid. The liquid-type parking heater is designed to warm up cooling system if it is not started by the engine. It can also heat the fuel system, which is no less important for cars running on an engine.
3. Oil. Such a parking heater is designed to warm up the oil line of the vehicle. The operation of such a system will speed up and also simplify the launch of the power unit during the cold season.

Also, stoves for warming up the cab and car interior can be divided according to the method of supply:

• gasoline, which run on gasoline;
• diesel, functioning, respectively, on a diesel engine;
• electric for 12 or 24 volts, powered by current.

DIY installation instructions

In order not to subsequently require repair of autonomous car heaters, most manufacturers initially recommend contacting specialists for installation. Of course, it is better to entrust the installation of such a system for a cab or car interior to professionals, especially if you are faced with such a task for the first time. But sometimes car owners have to install the AO on their own. This issue is especially relevant for motorists from small towns, in which there are simply no good specialists and, accordingly, the possibility of a high-quality installation.

In addition, it is sometimes necessary to install a gasoline or electric AO at 12 or 24 volts on your own due to the high cost of installation. However, it is always necessary to remember that car owners do not always manage to save money on self-installation of AO. After all, if you accidentally break at least one 12 or 24 Volt electrical joint-stock mount, this can lead to serious financial costs.

So, to make an independent installation electrical system to 12 or 24 volts in the cab or interior of the car, do the following:

1. First of all, in order to correctly install gasoline, diesel or electric 18 volt AO, you need to decide on the installation site of the stove heater itself. To do this, you need to find a place in the engine compartment that will be the most optimal.
2. The next step in the installation of a 12-volt gasoline or electric joint-stock company will be laying the line. If this is an electric version of 12 volts, then it can be powered by a cigarette lighter or battery. Appropriately, you must connect the power of the device to or cigarette lighter. If it's about fuel option, then a line should be connected to the stove heater, which can go directly from the tank or fuel pump. If necessary, you can use the branching in the engine compartment.
3. Next, you need to carry out electrical connection to activate the control unit. The block itself is desirable to be placed in the vehicle interior. Please note that the unit must not be exposed to moisture and high temperatures, as this will negatively affect its functionality. For connection, you can use an unloaded circuit protected by a fuse. The use of a fuse or relay is important because power surges can burn out the control unit. But, as practice shows, blocks from well-known manufacturers usually last quite a long time.
4. Then you need to conduct air ducts from the device to the vehicle interior. For this, as a rule, the lines of the regular stove of the machine or other openings are used.
5. Make sure that there are no gaps at the entry points of the heating pipes, as this will lead to cold air flow into the passenger compartment. In order to get rid of the gaps, use the sealing elements that should come with the kit.
6. After the additional interior heater is installed, it is necessary to check its performance. It is advisable to do this before you start assembling all the components. engine compartment. Turn on the stove and, in accordance with the operating instructions, check the operation of the system in all modes. More details about the installation of such a system are described in the video (the author of the video is Timur Safin).

Operation features

What you need to consider when using the device in order to prevent its accelerated failure:

1. When buying such a system, it is necessary to carefully study the features of installation, as well as use. Carefully read all the manufacturer's recommendations, pay attention to the power parameter of the device itself. If the power of the system does not match similar parameter on-board network of the machine, the installation of such an AO is not allowed, as it can cause problems.
2. Each time the system is put into operation, it is necessary to check its performance. Make sure there are no leaks or any damage.
3. When using a gas type heater, make sure that fuel does not leak out during installation. A gas leak can lead to poisoning of passengers and the motorist.
4. Never turn on the heating system for maximum mode. Be aware that excessive heating of the airflow can lead to poor health. This is because the heated air then will be very dry, respectively, you will need to ventilate the cabin more often.

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Video "AO testing after system installation"

In the video below you can see how the testing work is going on. installed system interior heating (the author of the video is Slava Petrov).