At courses in driving schools, potential drivers are warned that in the first year after the issuance of a license, it is better to abandon the idea self-management car in winter period. It is connected with increased complexity driving vehicle By snowy roads. Even in major cities road services do not always cope with the snow cover on the roads, and in countryside or outside the main highways and do not pay due attention to cleaning the road. For your own safety, the driver must learn the basic rules for driving on snow and ice in winter time of the year. In addition, these rules are very simple and obvious, but non-compliance with them can cost the driver and pedestrians their lives.
Driving on snow - basic rules
With experience, drivers begin to feel better about their car, and they do not even think about how to drive a car in winter. But in the first years of driving, while driving on sections of the road that were covered with snow, remember the basic precautions:
The above rules apply to any type of snow. In total, motorists divide snow on the road into 3 main categories. Each type of snow is characterized by its own driving style, which will allow you to avoid accidents.
In the middle or early winter, snow often falls without rainfall, and it falls loosely on the ground. Often outside the city on country roads or small roads where there is little to no traffic, such snow may lie untouched by vehicles and road services. This type snow is the easiest to overcome - it must be driven at a good speed, trying not to slow down.
Loose snow should scatter from under the wheels of the car, and it is impossible to get stuck in it if you follow the rules for driving on snowy roads.
A difficult condition for a car driver is driving on wet snow. The main rule when driving on “heavy” snow is to exclude the possibility of a complete stop of the car as much as possible. The car must create its own track and move along it, rolling new snow into it and overcoming it with tires. Based on the laws of geometry to rear tires when cornering, they could pass along the rut created by the front ones, the best option would be to pass them with a maximum radius.
Attention: If the car has come to a complete stop in wet snow, on which it was moving with great difficulty, it is better to back up a little, and then start moving again. This will allow you to return the car to the desired track and continue to coast on it.
Please note that if the task is to overcome a large stretch of road with wet snow, it is better to attend to the deflation of tires. When driving on a road with such complex weather conditions, lower the tire pressure to 0.7-1 atmospheres. It is recommended to move in a pre-selected gear, trying to keep the engine speed at the same level. If you begin to feel that the car may stall, it is better to stop, but not with the help of the brakes, but by continuing to move on the clutch (for manual box gears) or without depressing the accelerator pedal (for automatic transmission).
Snow crust is one of the most difficult conditions for vehicle movement. If to be long trip snow crust and it is impossible to avoid it - it is important to prepare tires for this test, and even better to find a partner who also needs to overcome a difficult section of snow-covered road.
You should move along the snow crust on flat tires to a value of 0.3-0.4 atmospheres. Due to the ice formed on the snow mass, the grip of the car's wheels is reduced to almost zero. At the same time, the hard ice crust has great resistance and hardly passes under the tires. Lowering tire pressure is recommended to increase the area of pressure on the snow crust, which will allow you to bend and break the ice crust.
- Come to a complete stop before turning without using the brakes;
- Further, the steering wheel is slightly twisted in the direction opposite to the turn, and the car backs up;
- After that, the steering wheel turns slightly in the direction of the turn, and the car moves forward.
Depending on the steepness of the turn, vehicle weight, engine power, snow icing and other parameters, it may be necessary to repeat the above procedure 2-3 times. This is necessary to maximize the width of the track from which the turn will be made.
If you manage to find a partner to drive across the road on which the snow crust has formed, he will act as insurance. One of the cars must move forward, pushing through the ice crust under itself, and the second, if necessary, will be able to pull it back if the car gets stuck.
Riding in ice
The rules for safe driving in ice are practically the same as the methods for moving on snow. However, if a snow embankment is often found on low-intensity roads, then ice tends to form on highways, long roads common use and in the city. When driving in ice, you need to be extremely careful and do not forget about the following rules:
Before driving on the roads in winter, carefully consider the preparation of the car:
- It must be "shod" with winter tires;
- Mirrors and glasses are cleared of frost;
- A “snow cap” must be removed from the roof, which risks being on windshield when braking, which will lead to a dangerous situation;
- headlights, rear lights and other means of lighting and indication should be cleaned.
If you are heading to long trip, be sure to make sure that the battery is well charged so that you do not have to
How improve vehicle patency: reliable car enthusiast assistants
Every driver who has to do it often is ready to do everything possible to increase the cross-country ability of his vehicle. Why not, because with the help of modern and reliable devices it is quite real. When choosing devices, you need to clearly understand the capabilities of your " iron horse", because this is the only way to organize it normal operation and pick up best way raise
patency. And most importantly, the solution to this issue should be comprehensive. What to turn to
The main thing is that the motorist must solve the problem of increasing the geometric cross-country ability, reducing the rolling resistance of the car while driving the car off-road, increasing the traction of the drive axle, as well as the performance of the main components of the car.
What products exist today to increase patency?
These can include self-retracting anchor, traction control, track chain, snow chain (caterpillar and fine grain), and straps for increased flotation. If the car is moving off-road, then motorists can always connect a second axle (if possible). In this case, the adhesion force will increase significantly. In the most problematic areas, it is recommended to include downshifts, otherwise the traction force may not be enough to overcome the obstacle. On off-road it is better to avoid climbs (there is additional resistance). In this case, it is better not to force the speed.
The most popular devices for increasing the cross-country ability of a vehicle are. As already mentioned, they are caterpillar, small-link and track. Moreover, each type has its own characteristics.
Track chains
The use of these products will be very relevant when moving through snowy or swampy areas. They are very useful for overcoming ordinary obstacles in the wet. dirt road. But here it is extremely important to organize the correct tension, which is checked very simply: the track should be raised with a finger above the wheel to a height of about 5-8 millimeters.
Allows you to effectively move on unpaved, slippery and wet roads. You can use these devices to move on snowy or icy roads (here it is also very important correct installation– must move freely without crashing into the tires).
Track type chains
More suitable for trips on snowy and dirt swampy roads. At correct tension the upper branch should sag between the wheels by 1-1.5 cm. Track chains should be removed immediately after passing difficult area. Otherwise, you can damage the road surface, “burn” a lot of gasoline and wear out tires.
These devices are very useful if you need to get out of any serious "trap". Before mounting the traction control, it is necessary to fasten bracelet chains to the drive (preferably rear) wheels. In this case, the car will overcome the obstacle much faster.
Straps for increased flotation
The devices are very popular among drivers. This is not surprising, because these products are real helpers when it is necessary to overcome mud, snow and sand. They are very easy to use and easy to remove. Cross-country belts are most useful for cars, SUV, minibuses.
The abnormally warm weather that surprised many in early November is over. Lined up in tire fitting queues and the first, albeit quickly melted snow, are sure signs that real winter is already very close. Under such conditions the best option A car is one that has four-wheel drive. Especially if you do not live in Moscow.
The cheapest
Lada 4x4
- Price: 353,800 rubles;
- Power: 81 horsepower;
- Acceleration to 100 km / h: 19 seconds;
- Fuel consumption: 11 liters;
- Heating sidney: no;
Bonus- such a car, for example, was filmed in the movie "Crimson Rivers".
UAZ Hunter
- Price: 455,000 rubles;
- Power: 128 horsepower;
- Acceleration to 100 km / h: 15.6 seconds;
- Fuel consumption: 13.2 liters;
- Seat heating: no;
Bonus– The machine may be discontinued as early as 2014. Cars bought now will soon be a rarity.
Most stylish
Nissan Juke
- Price: 917,000 rubles;
- Power: 190 horsepower;
- Acceleration to 100 km / h: 8.4 seconds;
- Fuel consumption: 7.6 liters;
Bonus- to become the owner of a car, for the first month of sales of which in Japan, fastidious local customers made 10,000 orders.
Mini Cooper S Paceman
- Price: 1,365,000 rubles;
- Power: 184 horsepower;
- Acceleration to 100 km / h: 7.8 seconds;
- Fuel consumption: 6.7 liters;
- Heated seats: front - standard, rear - no;
Bonus– become the owner of Mini c, perhaps the richest and most beautiful finish.
The most powerful
Bentley Flying Spur 6,0
- Price: 10,750,000 rubles;
- Power: 625 Horse power;
- Acceleration to 100 km / h: 4.6 seconds;
- Fuel consumption: 14.7 liters;
- Seat heating: standard;
Bonus – maximum speed 322 km/h
Mercedes-Benz S-Class AMG
- Price: 6,900,000 rubles;
- Power: 585 horsepower;
- Acceleration to 100 km / h: 4 seconds;
- Fuel consumption: 10.3 liters;
- Heated seats: front - standard, rear - 28,296 rubles;
Bonus- to become the owner of the most high-tech car to date.
The most unusual
mercedes benz G-Class AMG 6x6
- Price: 24,660,000 rubles;
- Power: 544 horsepower;
- Acceleration to 100 km / h: 6 seconds;
- Fuel consumption: no data;
- Seat heating: standard;
Bonus- six wheels.
Great wall hover M2
- Price: 549,000 rubles;
- Power: 105 horsepower;
- Acceleration to 100 km / h: 16 seconds;
- Fuel consumption: 7.4 liters;
- Seat heating: no;
Bonus- get increased attention on the road, get tired of answering the question: “What kind of car is this?”.
Optimal
Volvo S60 2.5 T5
- Price: 1,329,000 rubles;
- Power: 249 horsepower;
- Acceleration to 100 km / h: 7 seconds;
- Fuel consumption: 8.7 liters;
- Heated seats: front - standard, rear - 16,500 rubles;
Bonus- the opportunity to save 730,000 rubles, if you have always dreamed of all-wheel drive Volvo S60.
SsangYong Actyon
- Price: 869,000 rubles;
- Power: 149 horsepower;
- Acceleration to 100 km / h: no data;
- Fuel consumption: 8.2 liters;
- Heated seats: front - standard, rear - no;
Bonus– to become the owner of a car from the line, which, in fact, became the progenitor of the “four-door coupe” body (we are talking about the very first generation of Actyon).
Nikolay Zagvozkin
Winter ... The driver, triumphant, renews the road on the car ... Indeed, thanks to the bad weather and the sluggishness of the road services, motorists, even in large cities, have difficulty making their way through the snow. But such a ride, as we remember from the course driving lessons, is fraught with some troubles. What is the danger of driving in deep snow, and how to drive in winter if the snow has just fallen?
Danger at every turn
Anything can hide under the snow: potholes, large pits, curbs, all kinds of stones.
IN deep snow you can easily get stuck so that you can’t do without the help of towing. Autoinstructors in their classes they warn their students that there are three states of "dangerous" snow:
"Puffy"
This is freshly fallen snow, very loose and not dense. If there is a lot of it, then it is better to overcome such an obstacle at speed, maintaining inertia. Snow easily scatters to the sides, and it is easy to pass the obstacle.
Heavy and wet snow
This is where tire pressure comes in handy. 0.7-1 atmospheres is enough (we look from the situation) for the car to easily drive on such snow.
While driving on such a surface, a considerable rolling resistance of the wheels is created, so the car quickly loses acceleration. Therefore, you should choose optimal mode engine operation and such a transmission as to at least slightly compensate for the resistance and prevent wheel slip. It is better to move, so to speak, in tightness, “treading” the track. Thus, you will feel how the car behaves, its engine, wheels and other structural elements directly involved in such a complex task.
Did you feel that the car is somehow heavy, starts to stall? Be sure to stop, but do not use the brakes.
On automatic box just take your foot off the gas, and squeeze the clutch on the mechanics. Pull back, if necessary, get out of the car and see what exactly is bothering you. Then the second attempt, the third and so on. Moving back and forth forms a track, along which it will be easier to drive.
It is especially important to prevent the wheels from slipping, otherwise the car will start to get stuck, and the already knurled layer will break off. It is recommended to start driving when the front wheels are straight ahead. Try to keep the rear ones on the track trodden by the front ones. This will reduce rolling resistance. But the turns should be calculated so that they have the maximum possible radius. So, rear wheels will pass along the front track.
Nast and grits
Exactly this dangerous state snow. You need to move along it very carefully, and with flat tires, up to 0.3 atm. It is better to move forward and backward, clearing your way. Nast creates more resistance, and the grip of the wheels is minimal.
The best option for movement is in pairs, when the first car serves as a kind of ram, and the second as insurance, that is, it pulls the first back.
Driving rules
Alternately engage reverse and forward gears, gradually clearing your way with the wheels. If you need to turn, then follow the following rules:
- Approach the turn in a straight line.
- The steering wheel needs to be turned a little in the direction opposite to the turn, and then drive back. At this stage, half of each wheel of the machine should pass already on the rolled track, while the second half expands this track.
- Then we turn the steering wheel a little already in the direction of the turn and go forward. The rolled track is expanding.
- Repeat the previous two steps until we pass the turn.
Video on how to ride in deep snow:
Easy and calm road for you!
Image taken from club-picanto.ru
Any snow cover is not soil in the direct sense of the word. This is essentially a kind of ice, frozen water, only in a looser form. Carrying out movement in the snow, the wheels first ram or dig it to a solid base, and only then, having received support, move the car forward. The most slippery winter pavement, this is slightly melted ice, covered on top with a thin film of water.
Driving on snow with a depth not exceeding the height of the tire profile is not particularly difficult. For a more confident movement, the tire pressure must be 0.1-0.2 atmospheres higher in advance than is used when driving on asphalt. Then the tire will quickly get to the bottom of a solid base under the snow. It will be easier for her to compact the snow and make ruts, the car will be more confident in keeping the trajectory.
An SUV is not an all-terrain vehicle or a snowmobile, which feel quite confident on virgin snow and move along the top layer of snow on tracks, skis or ultra-low pressure tires. Therefore, to move out into deep snow with a knurled snow rut on a wheeled vehicle, preferably only in case of emergency.
It becomes possible to move in deep snow only after the wheels compact it well. That is why narrow Winter tires with developed tread. Tire pressure is also better slightly overestimated.
Overcoming drifts and snowdrifts.
First of all, you need to make sure that there are no solid obstacles hidden by snow in the form of concrete columns or something similar on the trajectory of movement. overcome snowdrifts or snowdrifts the easiest way is to turn on the low row in advance, and start off from the second or third low gear.
Thus, it is possible to insure as much as possible against slipping, which can instantly bury the car in the snow, and provide the necessary power reserve. Do not shift gears in deep snow unless absolutely necessary. The movement itself should be as straightforward as possible, then there will be two tracks, not four from all wheels, and it will be easier to move forward.
If there was not enough inertia and the car began to slip, then you need to go back along your track and try again. So, gradually trampling down the snow under the wheels of the car, you can make a rut even in a deep snowdrift, a large skid or virgin snow.
It is necessary to turn or turn around in deep snow carefully and along the maximum radius, the less the steering wheel is turned, the more likely it is not to get stuck. When cornering, the inverted wheels also rest against the snow with their sidewalls, and rear wheels you have to make your own track, so the resistance to movement increases greatly.
Driving on icy roads, overcoming turns.
Even on a flat and straight road, avoid driving with high speeds and avoid sudden maneuvering. Steering and throttle actions should be smooth. This will make the movement of the car more manageable. The brakes should only be used for a short time, mainly using engine braking.
You need to be especially careful when overcoming turns on icy roads. The trajectory of movement is chosen as flat as possible so that the front wheels are turned to the minimum possible angle. The turn itself is held in tightness, turning the steering wheel as little as possible and pressing the brake.
Behavior different types tires on snow cover and ice.
Under the influence of tires, the snow is compacted and turns into ordinary hard ice, therefore, even in deep snow, mud tires have no advantage over winter tires. And in the event of the slightest slip on a slight rise, they would rather polish four slippery holes in the snow and the car would stop. With universal ones, things will be somewhat better, but still worse than on normal ones.
On virgin snow, winter and universal tires will ram the snow under him, creating at least some kind of support for movement. mud tires most likely they will quickly get to the ground through the thickness of the snow and best case will slip on slippery and frozen ground, and in the worst case, the car will sit on the bottom and get stuck.
On road ice large tread blocks of off-road mud tires of the MT class do not have reliable adhesion to the surface and driving on them becomes dangerous. Universal class AT on ice hold a little better. But winter tires, with their many specially designed sipes of various shapes, hold the car best of all on ice, literally sticking to it. Studded tires are even better.
Improved traction on snow and ice.
Almost an order of magnitude increase the car's cross-country ability and improve movement on snow by chains or anti-skid put on its wheels. On ice, locally avoid slipping when starting to move on ice or help when overcoming slippery slopes on uncleaned roads, sand sprinkled under the wheels will help. In winter, you can carry it with you in a three or six liter bottle of water with a large neck. The cardinal solution to the problem is winter studded tires.
If the vehicle is stuck in deep snow.
If the car is not stuck very much, then you can make an attempt to get out first by rocking the car well in place from side to side. Due to the buildup, the snow under the wheels and the bottom is slightly crushed and rammed, and then it may be possible to drive a little further. Or at least take it back on your own track.
In other cases, you will have to get it and dig a lot. In the snow, as well as, this is the most reliable, albeit long-term way to get out. From standing still for a long time, the tire will cool down and, at the beginning of the movement, the cold tread will clog with snow. A small slip will help to clean it, a warm tread will melt the snow and clean itself. If nothing works out, then you have to go behind the tractor.
