Timing chain and its features. Is the timing chain as durable as they say? Let's figure it out! Self-replacement of the timing chain: is it real? Installing a new chain

16.10.2019

When choosing a new car, many motorists often focus not on the appearance of the future car or its “bells and whistles”, but on the technical features of the power unit, in other words, the engine. The approach, in principle, is understandable and largely justified, no matter how beautiful and fancy a new car is, if something is wrong with the engine, there is little sense from it. However, there are often cases when, when buying a supposedly trouble-free and "unkillable" engine , we get a lot of problems that cost us a lot or cause us to sell a car we just bought. A typical situation - you buy a car with a diesel engine with a turbine from a well-known manufacturer, and after several months of operation you realize that something is wrong with the turbine, the diesel engine is not yours, but the well-known name of the manufacturer - just a set of letters and a bloated brand. Something similar is observed with the type of timing drive, for some reason it is generally accepted that the timing belt is less reliable, and the chain is almost eternal, although in practice it often turns out the other way around ...

Today, as you may have guessed, we will talk about the timing chain. I will try to figure out whether the chain is as trouble-free and durable as they say about it, or it was nevertheless idealized in vain. You will learn about the positive and negative aspects of the timing chain.

In fact, a lot of motorists are guided by this particular indicator, believing that the chain does not break, it serves almost the entire life of the motor, in addition, a lot of time and money are saved on replacement, which is shown timing belts. I won’t say that this is completely untrue, of course, those who believe that the timing chain is a more reliable option than the timing belt are partly right, the question is how much. Looking ahead, I want to give a real example, when one of my friends bought a car with a timing chain and very soon fell victim to the myth that the chain is eternal and will never break. A couple of weeks after the purchase, the chain burst, and the motor went to the "capital". It was after this event that I and many of my friends stopped "believing in chains", and as it turned out, not without reason. There are thousands of people like my friend on the Internet, all this is nothing more than confirmation of the version that today there are either no timing chains capable of moving almost a million "km" at all, or their percentage is so small that it is simply pointless to take it into account ...

Many of you are now “banging” on the keyboard with your fingers, trying to comment on the above, they say: belts break more often, the chain could be defective or expired, etc. Of course, these arguments should not be ruled out, but the case is not isolated and requires a special approach .

Those who do not know what a timing belt break threatens, I advise you to read the good old article: "", in which I described in detail this trouble, as well as what it is unpleasant for. Let me briefly remind you that a broken belt or chain is one of the most unpleasant breakdowns, promising big problems, serious cash injections and overhauls. Indeed, this happens less often with a chain, but one should not confuse the concepts of "less often" and "does not happen at all", in addition, in the case of a chain, everything, as a rule, ends much sadder. Due to the fact that the chain is metal and weighs much more than a rubber belt if it breaks, most often it is either coiled or simply thrown around the motor, usually smashing the motor to smithereens and tearing out entire pieces of metal. On some engines, in the event of a timing belt break, nothing serious happens at all, the thing is that the manufacturer took into account the possibility of a break and did everything to ensure that nothing happened after the pistons and valves met. It is this fact that can be considered the first plus in favor of timing belts, which, after a break, allow you to bring the power unit back to life with virtually no loss.

Timing chain replacement interval

Produced after about 200-250 thousand km. mileage, there are of course exceptions, when the manufacturer excludes this possibility and guarantees trouble-free operation of the chain and motor throughout the entire period of operation. There can be many reasons for a chain break, from a factory defect in a chain or tensioner, as well as violations of operating rules, to reasons associated with insufficient lubrication or poor quality.

Also, quite often, manufacturers simply do not indicate the frequency of replacing the timing chain, as manufacturers of belt-driven engines usually do. The degree of chain wear, as a rule, is determined by a number of typical symptoms, among which: increased noise, valve timing shift, in some cases, wear is determined by the output of the tensioner rod.

Timing Chain Location Options

Most often, in the case of a chain, one of two options for the location of the timing drive is used: "front" and "rear". In the first case, the timing drive is located on the side of the drive belt of the mounted units. In the "rear" arrangement, the timing drive is located on the side of the box and flywheel. The first option is more common, this is due to the fact that with this arrangement, maintenance and repair is much easier. The second option, despite its "inconvenience", is still used, and by quite eminent companies such as BMW and Audi.

The manufacturer claims that the rupture of the timing belt is directly related to non-compliance with the recommendations specified in the instruction manual in the section "Type of oil and the frequency of its replacement." Few people know that the timing chain closely interacts with the tensioner, which is also very often "at risk", in addition, it is very dependent on the quality of the oil and the pressure in the smear system. If the engine takes oil, and the owner does not follow this closely, sooner or later the pressure in the system will decrease, as a result, the chain will loosen and break.

Timing chain replacement is necessary if the following symptoms appear:

Unstable idle (the result of a shift in the valve timing);
Rustling and chatter, as a rule, manifests itself at idle, with low oil pressure;
Maximum tensioner output (can be seen if the cover is removed);

Excessive wear on sprocket teeth (can also be seen by removing cover)
Corresponding errors read by a special diagnostic tester from the phase sensor.

Buying a car with a timing chain must be taken with all responsibility. Unlike motors with belts, which are customary to change immediately after purchase, replacing the chain can cause a lot of inconvenience. Firstly, as I said, it can burst at any time, and secondly, replacement is not cheap, as a rule, the figure ranges from 500 to several thousand USD, so before you strike hands and make a deal, check What state is the circuit in? You are unlikely to succeed in diagnosing wear on your own, it is better to entrust this procedure to a specialist.
Having bought a car with a chain drive, pay special attention to engine oil, its quality and the frequency of its replacement. It is recommended to change the oil at least every 10-15 thousand km. mileage, ideally - after 7-8 thousand, depending on the type of oil, driving style and age of the car.
Having found the slightest knock or noise that occurs at idle, immediately go for diagnostics. Perhaps there is no cause for concern, but it is also likely that the chain is dying, and with it your motor.
Despite the recommendations and myths that chain mechanisms are shrouded in, I recommend changing the chain after every 150-200 thousand kilometers.
When replacing a chain, it is recommended to replace the gears as well as the guides, otherwise "lapping" will begin to occur, which can destroy either the new chain or the gears.

Summing up

As you can see, there is nothing eternal, and such an impeccable, at first glance, motor with a timing chain can cause a lot of trouble and ultimately cost many times more than a conventional timing belt, which everyone is so afraid of. Regardless of which option you prefer, it is important to follow the operating rules specified by the manufacturer, not to delay the replacement of oils and consumables, and also visit the service station regularly. Such an attitude to the motor will not only save you from the need to "capitalize" it, but also extend the life of the power unit.

I have everything, thank you for your attention, as well as for visiting. I look forward to your comments on this topic, I will be happy to hear the opinions of both opponents and fans of the timing chain. Take care of yourself and see you next time. Bye!

The timing belt is one of the most important parts of a car: if it breaks, the timely supply of the working mixture and the removal of exhaust gases will stop. In the event of damage to the valves, an expensive overhaul of the motor cannot be avoided.

If the car is used, then you should not wait until the replacement date for the passport comes.

When to change the timing belt and why a break occurs - in the material "AiF-Chelyabinsk".

toothed rim

Externally, the timing belt is a rubber toothed rim. With a longitudinal engine, this part is located between the engine cylinder block and the radiator. When transverse, as a rule, on the right side (on the opposite side of the gearbox).

“Determining when to change the timing belt is impossible to the nearest kilometer. Not every belt lasts exactly as long as the manufacturer measured it. Therefore, once every 3 months, its external condition should be monitored. It should not have obvious signs of destruction - microcracks and delaminations. It is important that the belt is always taut. You can check this as follows: if it scrolls more than 90 degrees with your fingers, then it must be pulled, but not pulled, ”says auto mechanic Andrey Eremin.

Modern automakers recommend changing the belt every 50-80 thousand kilometers or every 4-5 years. More accurate values can be found in the car's instruction manual, since each model has its own specific resource. Experts say that it is impossible to install a belt and forget about it for the next 80 thousand kilometers. It can break off at 10, and 40 thousand, or it can last longer than the specified period.

Material fatigue

A belt break occurs most often due to wear or poor assembly of the product itself.

“There is such a thing as material fatigue. Every day, the timing belt loses its former elasticity, peels off, and cracks appear on it. It also breaks due to a jammed pump and tension rollers. Most rarely, this situation occurs when one or more camshafts are jammed, ”the auto mechanic continues to say.

Automakers do not produce universal belts. They are selected for each car separately. Experts advise buying original products that are supplied by the manufacturer. If the belt breaks, the car will stall and the engine will not start.

Timing chain drive

If the timing belt is a rubber band with teeth, then the chain is already a metal part, which is made in the form of roller connectors.

“At one time, cars were produced with a chain that could last a very long time. But the era of such cars is long over. Modern timing chain driven cars are almost as vulnerable as belt driven cars. If the belt breaks, the internal combustion engine can be easily saved from overhaul by replacing the part with a new one in a timely manner. If the chain guide wears out, it threatens with a complete failure. This is explained by the material of the product, which is much more massive than the belt. Chain slip most often leads to expensive engine repairs, because the internals of the motor are damaged, ”says an auto mechanic.

Advantages and disadvantages

The chain is not afraid of frost and heat, dust.
Does not stretch under load - only over time due to wear.
There is no need to seal the device from engine oil.
High accuracy of setting the valve timing.
Roller chain connections are less flexible, more noisy during rotation.
The cost of manufacturing motors with such a drive is higher than motors with a belt.

On some cars, the chain can withstand the entire passport period, on others it cannot even withstand 60 thousand kilometers. Experts say that the problem is a defect - the manufacturer violated the quality standards of the lubricant, its abundance.

In a chain drive, a separate issue of changing the oil should be given. Lubrication must be carried out at least once every 15 thousand kilometers.

“You need to be attentive to noises of various kinds, knocks. It is especially important to pay attention to the noise that occurs immediately after starting the engine or during prolonged idling of the engine. It is possible that these are the initial signs of a timing malfunction, ”experts advise.

How to determine the wear of the timing belt and chain:

Appearance of a product - cracks, delaminations.
Deviation from the predetermined position of the tensioner roller and the shaft sprocket.
Excessive temperature or roller bearing failure.
Belt extension.

Rough engine idling.
Unusual noise, knocking.
Optimally acceptable location of the tensioner, noticeable after removing the protection cover.

The chain drive of the gas distribution mechanism is associated by most motorists with reliability, durability and reliability. Such beliefs are confirmed by practice, although exceptions also occur. On some brands of cars, it stretches out quite quickly, and sometimes even breaks. If this did not lead to serious consequences, then the owner of the car is quite capable of replacing the timing chain on his own, although the disassembly procedure is quite lengthy and time-consuming.

How to identify a faulty chain drive

Unlike the timing belt, which is located outside the engine, the chain with gears is located inside the power unit and is completely hidden from view. On the one hand, this is a plus: the mechanism makes less noise and is abundantly lubricated with engine oil, which increases its resource. On the other hand, without removing the valve cover, it is impossible to visually assess the technical condition of the assembly.

The first sign of a chain drive problem is a rumbling sound coming from under the cover when the power unit is running. The rumble of a weakened chain cannot be confused with anything, it is heard from the side where the gas distribution mechanism is located.

Hearing such a sound, the owner of the car should check the condition of the drive so as not to run into big troubles associated with the repair of the motor. There are 2 ways: immediately go to the nearest car service for diagnostics, or remove the valve cover yourself and make sure that the chain section near the camshaft gear is loose. Tension deterioration is caused by the following reasons:

due to stretching to such a length that the tensioner is unable to take up the slack;
due to a malfunction of the tensioner;
the damping plate is worn or broken;
due to the high mileage of the car, all parts of the mechanism were worn out - the chain, gears, tensioner and damper.

If an old-style mechanical tensioner is installed in the car engine, then when the described symptoms appear, the first action is to tighten the chain with it. To do this, it is enough to loosen the outer nut holding the plunger spring and manually turn the crankshaft 1-2 turns. Then the nut is tightened again.

Modern automatic hydraulic tensioners are not designed for manual adjustment and must be replaced in the event of a breakdown. It is possible to make sure that the element is out of order only by removing it or disassembling the entire timing unit. The same applies to the damper - on most cars, its wear can only be assessed when the mechanism is disassembled.

Ignoring the rumbling noise emitted by the chain will sooner or later lead to engine failure. The severity of the consequences depends only on your luck.

Consequences of malfunctions

Malfunctions in the timing chain drive lead to such problems:

A stretched and loose chain jumps a few teeth. This usually happens when the engine is started.
The chain, working with increased free play, often breaks the damper and even “gnaws” a groove in the cylinder head made of aluminum alloy.
In some brands of cars, where a single-row circuit is used in power units, it may break.

Note. Chain transmissions of the timing unit are single- and double-row. The former are not as reliable and durable as the latter, and often break down after a run of 50-80 thousand km. Two-row drives break extremely rarely, even when the owner of the machine does not pay due attention to it.

The consequences of these failures can be as follows:

The most harmless option is a shift in the valve timing due to the chain jumping by 1-2 teeth. The motor does not start well and vibrates strongly during operation, a loss of power is clearly felt on the go. When you sharply press the accelerator pedal, shots are heard in the intake manifold or exhaust pipe.
When there is an offset of 3 teeth, the engine will no longer start. Another thing is that in practice such situations are rare, a too loose chain slips much more strongly. The result is a piston hit on a valve that did not open at the right time.
From severe wear or breakage of the damper, the chain drive is weakened even more, which causes the consequences described above.
The damage caused by a single-row chain break depends on the type of engine and the moment when it happened. If all valves were closed, then the pistons that continue to move will not reach their plates.

In power units for 8 valves, a meeting with a piston is quite rare due to the technological gaps provided for by the design (except for individual motors). But the 16V engine valve, open at the moment of a chain break or jump, almost always receives a blow from the piston. As a result, its stem bends and the valve remains in the open position. In particularly severe cases, the consequences are as follows:

even the valve seat and guide sleeve are damaged;
a through hole appears in the upper part of the piston;
a dent appears on the plane of the cylinder head near the combustion chamber, which makes it necessary to change it entirely.

A chain that jumps or breaks on the go makes itself felt by a sharp loss of power or a complete engine failure. If at the same time you managed to hear a metallic knock, which means a meeting of the piston and valve, then you should prepare for a serious repair of the power unit.

What is the service life of the chains according to the maintenance regulations and the frequency of replacement

On average, a timing chain transmission serves from 200 to 350 thousand kilometers of a car. The indicator varies depending on the driving style of the driver and the quality of the engine oil used, which lubricates the links and gears. The operation of the hydraulic tensioner also depends on it.

Reference. In cars of leading German and Japanese manufacturers, a two-row chain often runs 450-500 thousand km, or even more.

In contrast to German brands, two-row drives of Korean small cars from manufacturers KIA and Hyundai work surprisingly little. Often there were cases of stretching and replacement of chains with a run of 60-90 thousand km on Hyundai Solaris (in Ukraine - Hyundai Accent) and KIA Ceed models, which is comparable to the resource of timing belts. Hence the recommendations on the timing of replacing the chain drive:

On Korean small cars, you need to listen and check the condition of the drive starting from 60 thousand kilometers. With a good outcome, the replacement is made in the range of 120-150 thousand km.
The same goes for the single row chains found on many European economy cars such as Peugeot, Opel and small diesels from Audi.
Two-row transmissions of other car brands should be paid attention after 150 thousand km, periodically checking their condition. Replacement is made as it wears out, but on average - not earlier than 200 thousand km.

To avoid the troubles associated with breakdowns of the timing drive, you need to carefully study the operating instructions for the car and the manufacturer's recommendations for servicing a particular car.

How to choose a new set of spare parts

Like other automotive parts, timing chains are forged by artisanal and Chinese manufacturers, after which they are sold. Cunning dealers are constantly coming up with new ways to deceive customers, for example, they put their low-quality products in original packaging of well-known brands from Western Europe. In order not to run into a fake spare part when buying a part, follow these recommendations:

buy a chain from official sales representatives, dealers or in stores that have proven themselves among other users;
do not try to save money by considering products from unknown manufacturers;
check the part for marks and deflection in a horizontal position;
consult with a familiar auto mechanic, which brand is better to choose for your brand of car;
make a visual inspection of the product for sloppy manufacturing or other signs - burrs, play between the links, and so on.

The chain is checked for deflection as follows: they take it at one end and hold it flat. The second end should sag no more than 10 mm. If possible, then check the hardness of the metal by carefully sawing it with a needle file. Steel in high-quality products is hardened, and therefore it is characterized by increased hardness and does not lend itself to a file.

Advice. The main technical characteristics of the chain are its size and the number of links, according to which you need to select the part. If you are in doubt, then do not buy a new part without removing the old one, with which it can be compared.

If you update the chain drive with a significant car mileage (150-200 thousand km), then you will have to change all related elements - gears, tensioner and damper. When the chain is stretched after a run of 50-100 thousand km, it is not necessary to change the gears, but the tensioner must be checked for operability. Also do not forget to buy consumables - cover gaskets, o-rings and heat-resistant sealant.

Timing chain replacement

The complexity of the procedure lies in the dismantling of attachments and disassembly of the power unit, which takes up to 3 hours. Removal and installation of a new drive is quite simple. If replacement of all elements is required, then be sure to delve into the timing drive device of your machine before performing work. Example: on the same KIA Ceed, the gear is pressed onto the crankshaft under heating, so you cannot dismantle it at home. Then disassembling the engine loses its meaning, since it will be possible to replace one chain.

Of the special tools, you will need a device for fixing the camshafts on a 16-valve engine (jig). The rest of the toolkit is standard:

a set of open-end wrenches and heads with an extension nozzle;
jack, wooden stands and wheel wrench;
containers for draining motor lubricant and antifreeze;
locksmith tools - hammer, screwdriver, pliers;
rag.

For work, you will need a viewing ditch and a portable lamp (flashlight). Put the front-wheel drive car on the pit in such a way as to provide access to the front wheel from the side of the timing unit. The rear-wheel drive car is set as convenient, there you don’t have to remove the wheels.

How to disassemble and remove the stretched chain

First of all, the following preparatory operations are performed:

fix the car with anti-recoil means;
disconnect the throttle valve heating pipe and drain the coolant from the engine jacket;
in a car with rear-wheel drive, you need to empty the radiator;
drain the engine oil;
dismantle the lower motor protection and mudguards that prevent further disassembly;
disconnect the pipes and cable from the gas pedal, which prevents the removal of the valve cover.

Note. It is not always necessary to drain the oil, it depends on the brand of car. For example, when replacing a chain with a VAZ 2101-07, the lubricant safely remains in the crankcase and does not interfere with work.

In a front-wheel drive car, you will have to remove the front wheel from the gas distribution mechanism and support the car on a wooden stand. The jack will be needed later, to lift the power unit.

It makes sense to consider the disassembly order using the example of the Korean Hyundai Solaris 16V car, in other front-wheel drive cars, the principle of work is little different:

Note. When disassembling the rear-wheel drive version of the car, you do not need to remove the wheel, lift the engine and unwind the pillow. Instead, you will need to remove the heatsink along with the fan.

After disassembly, it is necessary to clean the mounting flange of the cylinder block and the cover from the remnants of the old gasket and sealant, and also wipe off the oil and coolant leaks. Then, by turning the crankshaft, combine all the marks stamped on the gears with the risks on the motor housing or other landmarks indicated in the vehicle documentation.

There are 2 ways to loosen the chain for further removal:

immediately unscrew the 2 bolts of the hydraulic tensioner and remove it;
pry off the latch of the latch in the tensioner, press on the plastic shoe and loosen the chain.

After loosening, the chain drive is freely dismantled manually, the main thing is not to knock down the position of the marks.

Timing mechanism disassembly video

Installing a new engine part

Before assembling the mechanism, make sure that you have all the consumables available:

gasket under the timing cover;
pump gasket;
new rubber o-rings;
new hydraulic tensioner;
shoes for tensioner and damper (if necessary);
high temperature sealant.

If it is necessary to replace the worn shoes of the tensioner and damper, this is done before assembling the chain drive. This is not a problem, they are mounted on 2-3 bolts (depending on the brand of the car).

For convenience and error-free installation, manufacturers often put marks on the chain links that are combined with the risks on the gears of the camshafts and crankshaft. The first two are drawn in yellow, the third in black or another color. Therefore, the chain is put on the gears, taking into account these marks, after which it is pulled.

How to change the timing chain correctly: video

How to replace the tensioner

The hydraulic tensioner is recommended to be changed together with the chain drive. It rests on two bolts that must be unscrewed to replace the part. The new tensioner is equipped with a pin that fixes the plunger in its original state. When the chain is set according to the marks, and its slack is selected towards the tension shoe, the pin is pulled out and the spring pushes the rod, which presses on the guide shoe. Thus the chain is stretched.

Note. As long as the engine is not running and there is no oil pressure in the system, the chain drive will be tensioned only by the force of the spring. Therefore, the stretch will not be too strong.

After installing and adjusting the timing chain drive, manually turn the crankshaft 2-3 turns and check the position of the marks again. There is no need to specially lubricate the chain links, this will happen automatically after starting the motor. Next, the engine is reassembled with the installation of new gaskets on the sealant.

How a hydraulic tensioner works: video

The operation of the engine depends on the reliability and durability of the timing chain, so its condition must be monitored in order to replace it in time and avoid disastrous consequences. It is equally important to change the engine oil in a timely manner, which lubricates the drive and creates additional pressure in the tensioner. When the engine lubricant does not perform its functions, the chain is pulled out faster, and dirt accumulates in the hydraulic tensioner housing, which interferes with its normal operation.

The car owner periodically encounters breakdowns. Some can be eliminated quickly, others will have to tinker. The problem that will be discussed today belongs to the second category. In order to change the timing chain, serious technical skills will be required. But this does not mean that self-replacement is impossible.

Reasons for replacing the timing chain

It must be replaced in two cases:

In case of break.
In case of severe sprain.

An open circuit is an emergency. If this happened on the go, all the valves in the engine are almost guaranteed to be damaged. They will have to be changed along with the chain, and replacement (with preliminary grinding) will require the intervention of specialists and will cost the car owner very much.

Chain stretch is much more common. As a rule, it is associated with the so-called metal fatigue. Usually the chain stretches slightly after 200-300 thousand kilometers (but this only applies to original, high-quality chains from the car manufacturer, lower-quality chains can stretch even after 80-100 thousand kilometers). Stretching leads to a violation of the coherence in the operation of the camshaft and crankshaft, which in turn affects the operation of the entire motor. It becomes unstable, at low speeds the engine loses throttle response, jerks appear when starting off, etc.

How to determine wear

The most reliable way is computer diagnostics. The car is sent to a car service, installed on a special stand, and the program accurately determines the degree of desynchronization between the crankshaft and camshaft, after which the car owner receives a graph of the torques of these shafts, for clarity. This method is especially relevant for those who buy a car from their hands. It is no secret that unscrupulous sellers often twist the mileage meters on cars, assuring buyers that the car has traveled quite a bit. Their motives are clear: twisting mileage is much easier than changing a stretched part;
the second sign of wear: the control panel is constantly lit code P0355. The instructions say that it appears when the crankshaft sensor is faulty. But in practice, this may mean that an unscrupulous seller changed this sensor (or even the entire control unit) before selling it to mask another error, and the stretched chain did not go away;
third sign of wear: extended tensioner rod. To see it, the car owner will have to remove the front engine cover. If the tensioner has moved 8–10 mm from its original position, the chain is stretched and must be replaced;

Choice: which part is better

There can be only one advice here: you need to buy a spare part produced by the car manufacturer. And you need to do this only in specialized service centers. Under no circumstances should you rely on third party products. Because this is a very important part of the engine, problems with which can lead either to very expensive repairs or to a complete failure of the engine. Yes, branded chains are expensive. However, this is not the kind of spare part that should be saved on.

Timing chain replacement procedure

Before changing the chain, you should decide on the tools that will be needed for this.

Tools and Consumables

New chain from the car manufacturer.
Open-end wrench set.
Set of spanners.
Screwdriver with a flat sting.
Hammer.
Chisel.
Mounting blade.
A piece of wire (diameter 0.5 cm, length 30 cm).

Replacement sequence

The machine is set to neutral. The front cover is removed from the machine engine to provide access to the shafts and gears.
The crankshaft is manually rotated until the mark on the camshaft sprocket matches the mark on the engine case. There is also a mark on the crankshaft itself. And it must also match the mark on the case.
The marks on the camshaft and timing case must match exactly.
The lock washer, installed under the camshaft sprocket bolt, is gently unbent with a chisel and a hammer.
The camshaft lock washer is unbent with a chisel and a hammer
Now the car is set to the fourth speed, after which the handbrake is activated.
The cap wrench loosens the camshaft sprocket mounting bolt.
The nut on the camshaft is loosened with a ring wrench by 17
After that, the timing chain damper is unscrewed and removed (it is most convenient to remove it with a wire hook):
The chain guide can be removed and removed with a wire hook
Next, the tensioner shoe is removed (it is indicated in the photo by the number 1). To do this, bolt 2 is completely unscrewed with an open-end wrench 14, after which the shoe, together with the tensioner, is removed from the engine:
The tensioner shoe is marked in the photo with the number 1, the bolt that holds it is marked with the number 2
Now the sprocket of auxiliary units is unscrewed with a ring wrench, but not completely. It is slightly weakened, but remains on its shaft.
Auxiliary sprocket is loosened but not removed
Since the chain tension has loosened, it is hooked with a wire hook and removed from the engine:
The old timing chain is removed with a wire hook
The new part is put on the previously removed camshaft sprocket. And only after that the asterisk is set in place:
The new chain is put on the camshaft sprocket, which is then installed in the engine
After that, it is checked whether the marks on the sprockets and shafts match, if not, the neutral gear is switched on, and the crankshaft is manually scrolled until it matches. After that, the bolt on the camshaft sprocket is baited (but in no case tightened).
Now the chain damper and the tensioner shoe are installed in a regular place.
Next, the nuts on the sprockets of the two shafts are tightened, after which the crankshaft rotates 3-4 times. At the same time, the coincidence of marks on the asterisks and the case is monitored. If there are no discrepancies, the new spare part is liberally lubricated with engine oil, after which the front engine cover is installed in its original place.

Video: do-it-yourself chain installation

Replacing a timing chain is a complex process. Even for experienced craftsmen, it takes about 5 hours. A car owner who decides to carry out this procedure on his own must clearly understand what he is doing, since the consequences of improper repairs can be very serious. Particular attention should be paid to the correct location of the labels. It is necessary to achieve perfect match and perfect synchrony, because without this the replacement cannot be considered successful.