Do I need to warm the injection engine in winter. Turbocharged diesels - how much to warm them up? What to do

12.04.2019

Disputes on the topic of whether or not to warm up the car engine before the trip do not subside among motorists. Is it really necessary to warm up? If yes, what is the best way to do it? Is it necessary to warm up the engine in summer? Or just in winter? What are the dangers of driving with a cold engine? Let's try to figure it out.

The majority of motorists claim that it is necessary to warm up the car engine before a trip. But, here are the instructions for modern cars, on the contrary, say the opposite. And to be completely accurate, they assume a method for warming up the engine “on the go”, and it is specifically stipulated that warming up the engine “in the old fashioned way” on Idling Not recommended.

Do I need to warm up the engine

The main arguments cited by opponents of engine warm-up:

When warming up at idle, the environment is harmed, since at this time an over-enriched mixture is formed, which does not completely burn out.
Excessive fuel consumption resulting from the first point.
Modern materials and technologies used in the automotive industry allow you to start moving "without grandfather's fears".
Depreciation of parts of the exhaust system, primarily the exhaust gas converter, as well as increased pollution of candles, and suboptimal oil heating.

However, let's still try to figure out exactly what processes occur inside a cold engine during start-up, looking at the engine "from the inside".

Despite the increased unification that almost all manufacturers strive for, car engine parts are made of various materials and there's no getting away from it.

Schematically, an internal combustion engine can be represented as follows:

Piston group bearing the main load.
An engine lubrication system that supplies oil to moving parts.
A fuel supply system that supplies fuel in the amount necessary for operation.
System of release of the fulfilled gases.

Piston group cylinders are mostly made of steel and its derivatives. Pistons, cylinder blocks, attachments are usually made from aluminum alloys. The connecting rod bearings are composed of steel and aluminum in proportions.

Now, taking into account this knowledge, as well as the laws of physics that no one has canceled, let's look at the processes occurring in a cold engine.

As you know, with decreasing temperature, metals tend to shrink, and the lower the temperature, the greater the compression ratio, and it (the coefficient) is individual for each metal separately. Or more simply, at the same temperature, steel and, for example, aluminum will shrink and expand in different ways.

For the bulk of engines, the optimum operating temperature is 90-95 ℃, and therefore, all the gaps of the rubbing parts of the engine are designed to operate at this temperature. Starting a cold engine, in particular in winter at low negative temperatures, forces the rubbing parts to work with increased voltage precisely because of the difference in the expansion coefficient. And the increased load leads, respectively, to increased wear.

Yes, of course, the necessary tolerances are structurally laid down to ensure a “cold start”, but the guarantee for the operation of the engine is not lifetime! For most models, it is up to several tens of thousands of kilometers or no more than 3 years. Moreover, all of the above is relevant for new cars that have just left the assembly line.

So, the engine is running, but not yet warmed up to operating temperature. Oil and technical fluids, which ensure the operation of the car, at negative temperatures have an increased viscosity, which leads to their lower fluidity, or, simply put, cold oil enters in smaller volumes to rubbing parts, which again increases wear. And an increase in engine speed when starting off increases this wear by an order of magnitude.

The vast majority of automakers limit the speed during warm-up, which by itself speaks of its necessity!

Warming up the engine in summer

Summarizing all of the above, it can be argued that the engine needs to warm up. But does the engine need it in summer or only in winter? After all, in summer the engine oil does not thicken, technical fluids are normal ...

Yes, in summer the conditions for starting the engine are more gentle, but, as mentioned above, a certain temperature is required for optimal engine operation. And if in winter the engine warm-up can last 5, and 10, and 15 minutes, depending on what temperature is “overboard”, how long the car has stood, on outdoors or indoors and so on, then in the summer this time, of course, is greatly reduced. And warming up is more like the one mentioned “warming up on the go”. But the initial warm-up at least to an engine temperature of 40–50 ℃ or to a decrease in idle speed in the presence of an automatic machine is necessary!

Warming up the engine of an injection car

Almost all cars equipped with an injection power system have a warm-up automatic that automatically sets the idle speed set by the manufacturer. However, there are some nuances, the observance of which will reduce the load on the engine and ensure a confident start of the engine.

A prerequisite for starting is the presence of a good spark and enough fuel, which is ensured by good performance battery. In winter, at low temperatures, it will be “good tone” to warm up the battery electrolyte by turning on the headlights for 20-30 seconds, which in turn will increase the time during which the battery can deliver maximum current.

To ensure a “cold start”, it is necessary to turn off all extraneous electrical appliances (radio, heater fan, etc.) and squeeze the clutch, if any. mechanical transmission, then start the engine.

No need to press the gas pedal! The starter itself will set all the necessary throttle settings and enrich the mixture in the required amount.

After starting the engine, slowly, smoothly, but surely, the clutch pedal is released. It is worth noting that this item is not relevant for owners of "machines".

Warming up a carbureted car

Starting and warming up carbureted car differs in the need for manual throttle control and fuel enrichment (if the car's carburetor is not equipped with an automatic starter).

To start carburetor engine the “choke” button (lever) is pulled out, the clutch is squeezed out, after which the engine is started directly. At working system ignition, after the first unsuccessful start, some additional fuel may be required, which is supplied to intake manifold car by vigorously pressing the gas pedal.

As in the case of an injection engine, after the engine picks up speed, the clutch pedal is released, and the number of revolutions during warm-up is adjusted by "choke". Optimal RPM when warming up the carburetor engine, they are 1200–1500 rpm. The readiness for a trip of a carbureted car is indicated by the fact that the "choke" is completely drowned, and the engine responds to the gas pedal without failures.

Diesel engine warm-up

A diesel engine, unlike a carburetor, requires a full warm-up before starting to move under load, which is dictated by its design (smaller gaps between the cylinder walls and pistons, significantly higher compression provides higher loads on piston system generally).

Confident start diesel engine It is ensured by the presence of special fuel heating plugs, which are switched on before starting the starter, and the fuel that falls on them evaporates more actively.

To start a diesel, if available mechanical box gears, the clutch is again depressed and the ignition is turned on. Most diesel vehicles have an indicator light to show the status of the glow plugs. After the lamp goes out, you can start the engine.

At low temperatures, it is useful to turn the ignition on and off several times in order for the glow plugs to create a favorable starting temperature inside the combustion chamber.

Controls the heating diesel car automatic, so driver intervention in this process is not required. After the diesel picks up the speed necessary for warming up, the depressed clutch pedal is released.

The engine will be fully warmed up when all its parts and working fluids reach operating temperatures, that is, with a fixed mode of operation, they stop changing. The coolant warms up the fastest - this is the process that we see by changing the position of the arrow on the temperature gauge. It also warms up the details of the upper part of the engine (pistons, cylinders, head) - the pace is almost the same. But the oil in the pan heats up much more slowly. Where is this visible? Anyone who has an on-board computer has probably noticed that even after reaching the normal temperature of the coolant, fuel consumption at idle may decrease for some time. This is just due to the slow warming up of the oil. And finally, the converter heats up the longest, and with it the toxicity of the exhaust gases reaches the working level. But all warm-up rates depend on the engine operating mode.

RESISTANCE TO MOVEMENT

Why doesn't the engine like frost? main reason is that any motor oil thickens in the cold. And at certain temperatures it can stop flowing altogether. Mineral oils - already at minus 20 ... 25 ° С, the best synthetics - at minus 45 ... 55 ° С. As a result, the friction units work "dry", the power of mechanical losses increases sharply, which require excess gasoline. But when the motor comes out faster normal level mechanical loss? If you stand and warm yourself, or if you go on the road immediately after launch? This will give an answer to the question of economy - after all, extra losses require additional fuel.

Let's check how much fuel a conventional injection engine eats with the same mileage, but different warm-up algorithms. A little about the patient. Net "European" 2005 release, 1.6 liters of working volume, declared as Euro-4. He spent his entire conscious life in Russia, but, apart from Maintenance, nothing was done in it. So, three warm-up programs. The first option is "grandfather's": fully warm up the engine and only after that go. The second - according to the instructions modern cars mobiles: "launched and went." And the third one is the one that can most often be found: they started up, brushed off the snow, waved a shovel (in general, they pulled time), and we warm up the car already on the trip. On the street - minus 15. The battery is good, in the pallet - expensive synthetics. Mileage - from parking to work: it's about 5 kilometers, and without traffic jams! You can dream...

So, option 1. Let's start. The tachometer needle is set at "1200", the computer shows an instantaneous fuel consumption of 2.5 l / h. After a minute, the flow rate drops to 1.9 liters, after 10 minutes - to 0.9 liters. Then the visible changes on the on-board computer end - the arrow on the temperature gauge does not even reach 50 degrees and stands up tightly. For reliability, we wait another 10 minutes - fuel consumption decreases to 0.8 l / h, which is still more than the usual 0.6 observed when the entire engine is fully warmed up. best result can not be reached - let's go! We are driving in fixed mode, third gear, 50 km/h, there are no traffic lights on the road. Consumption on the computer - 6.4 ... 6.6 l / 100 km. In total, they spent 0.45 liters on warming up, about 0.33 liters on the road. Total - about 0.8 liters.

Option 2- sat down, wound up and immediately drove off. The car did not like it very much, and for a start it gave out a flow rate of more than 10 liters. Then he began to decline rapidly, but due to a short run, he did not crawl to the previous 6.5 - he stopped at 6.8 liters. Total spent only 0.45 liters. Plus saving 20 minutes of precious time. Savings, it seems, are there, but it seems impressive only at low runs.

Option 3- after starting, the engine was warmed up for 5 minutes, while the ice was scraped off the windows. We started with an idle consumption of 1.3 l / h. The beginning of the run was marked by the figure of 7.6 l / 100 km, by the end of the race they returned to 6.6. Total, taking into account the mileage - 0.55 liters. Better than the first, but slightly worse than the second.

IMPACT ON THE ENVIRONMENT

It is clear that the unwillingness of automakers to warm the car is not caused at all by concern for our wallet. The main argument is ecology. After all, modern toxicity standards Euro-4 and above impose severe restrictions on the content of toxic components in starting modes and during the warm-up period. So let's see what will happen to the toxicity before the neutralizer (in professional slang it is called "raw") and after (this is "dry" toxicity).

So, the "raw" toxicity during cold start is very large. The reason is the need for a sharp enrichment air-fuel mixture. The fuel should be evaporated, and with a large "minus" on the street, it does not really want to evaporate. And the air enters the cylinders cold, dense. This means that in order to compensate for the low volatility of the fuel and the low air temperature, much more gasoline must be poured. And what has not evaporated or evaporated already in the combustion process flies into the pipe. "TseO" and "TseAshi" - well, very big! And catalytic converters should crush them. But the trouble with most modern converters is that they work effectively only in a narrow range of temperatures and mixture composition. The temperature should be high, and the composition of the mixture should be stoichiometric, that is, there should be exactly as much air in it as is necessary for complete combustion fuel. Otherwise, the efficiency drops sharply.

It is curious that at low temperatures during the warm-up process, a higher concentration of toxic components can be observed behind the converter than at the inlet! Where? Most likely, it hovers unburned gasoline on the first start-up cycles - it "sits" on the honeycombs active element catalyst. As it warms up, the efficiency of work increases, and, finally, the hot catalyst, with the working composition of the mixture, crushes almost all toxicity. In other words, in starting conditions and during warm-up, if a modern catalyst with external heating is not used, the toxicity of an engine with a converter will not differ too much from its earlier counterpart, which does not have one. Therefore, the main task is to bring the temperature of the active zone of the catalyst into the operating range as soon as possible.

The converter is heated by the flow of exhaust gases, and the faster, the greater their consumption and temperature. But when the process has begun in it, it begins to warm up itself - the afterburning of toxic components proceeds with the release of energy. Therefore, the temperature in the active zone of the operating catalyst is higher than that of the exhaust gases. And our experiment showed that even at normal temperature in the box, at the minimum idle speed, the converter does not enter the operating mode! Especially in the cold. Therefore, it will not work to suppress toxicity in the warm-up mode, if you warm up the engine in the parking lot: it means you need to move.

What is the difference in emissions? The initial content of CH is very high, under 1000 ppm, which, however, is expected. As the engine warms up, it begins to slowly decrease. But even after 20 minutes of warm-up, when the temperature of the coolant has already reached the operating level, the content of residual hydrocarbons remains high - about 180 ppm. - it warmed up, but the converter is cold, it works inefficiently.

Now we are trying to warm up the motor immediately under load, simulating the second warm-up option. The beginning is the same, but the pace is different: at the end of the race, the output was somewhere around 15…20 ppm. The neutralizer worked! It looks like there is an answer...

But not everything is so simple! We looked at the relative concentrations of toxic components, but we breathe in their absolute values, that is, not in “peeps”, but in grams and kilograms! That is, these concentrations must be multiplied by the consumption of exhaust gases. At idle during warm-up, it was about 15 kg / h, but when driving, if taken on average, it will be about 80! We multiply one by the other and we get: when warming up in the parking lot, along with the further road, we rewarded nature with a number of grams of residual hydrocarbons, almost twice as much as when driving immediately after launch (4.5 grams versus 2.8).

But the third option - when we warmed up a little, and then went - gave an even greater reduction in the absolute emission of CH: up to 2.1 grams. By the way, in this variant, when driving for 5 km, we threw out a little more than a gram of CH, which is close to the Euro-4 standards.

The figures are very indicative and generally understandable. When driving on a cold engine, we work for a long time at high toxicity, while the consumption of exhaust gases is high. And blowing the converter with cold air while driving also slows down its warming up. When warming up in the parking lot, the converter does not reach its normal mode, but when you start driving at high costs, it quickly begins to effectively extinguish toxicity. And with a short initial warm-up, the engine doesn’t have time to pretty much “harm” even in the parking lot, and when warming up in motion, it works much better: after all, it has already gained some kind of temperature. Here is the result.

But what we did not take into account. A car stinking in a parking lot envelops the space around it with a cloud of smoke, and it is disgusting to live there ... And a moving one, as it were, blurs its “good” over space. Globally - it turns out comparable, and at a single point - the damage from one moving car is several times less. But after all, one or two carriages are puffing at the same time in the parking lot, and crowds of them are crawling along the road ...

DEATH TO THE MOTOR...

Only the lazy did not write about the fact that it grows sharply during start-up and warm-up. Not so long ago, a bearded professor from the screen convinced the people that one cold start equals 100 kilometers! Of course, he knows better, but we would never give such EXACT figures - they are completely different. And the motors are different, and the temperatures overboard, and the oils poured into the sump, and the mileage with which they are compared can also be either outside the city or in city traffic jams. Therefore, in our opinion, the equivalent of 20 to 200 km is more fair: the main thing is the trend. And it is important that movement without warming up does not allow engine parts to prepare to receive heavy loads. They have a bad time - and not only bearings.
There is such a detail in the motor - a piston, and grooves are cut on its side surface so that piston rings put. So, these grooves are the most sensitive to loads and are the first to collapse when they become excessive. And this is exactly the situation here. If you immediately start and even skid a little, getting out of a snowdrift, the load on the motor will immediately become large. Heat flows from the working fluid quickly heat up the piston bottom, and the groove zone touches the cold cylinder, which is slightly warmer than antifreeze. There are large temperature differences, and with them - exorbitant stresses. And a piston without grooves is no longer a piston ... And the better the engine warms up, the less danger of such a disaster.

But what about automakers? They know everything, but frankly, they don't care. The motor must go out of warranty, then be sold and shipped somewhere in the third world. Otherwise, the market will overstock. Recommendations dance from there - ecology is primary, savings are also somewhere out there, and the resource - who is interested in it?

STILL WARM!

We believe that the third option is the most preferable. And in terms of fuel economy, it is acceptable, and in terms of toxicity, it is generally the best. The preheated engine is ready to take on loads and well protected from wear. By the way, in fact, we most often follow this recommendation: the engine heats up while the windows are scraped off and snow is swept away ...

And one more thing ... Suddenly you have to rev sharply on a completely cold engine - you never know how the situation on the road will turn out? And here it’s easy to fly into a very bad situation - the valves can hang and meet the piston, or crank crankshaft. And any service station will write it off for improper operation of the engine. Therefore - to refuse a guarantee! For many motors, a corresponding lock in the engine control program saves from such situations, but not everyone has it. But a pre-warmed engine will carry such a mockery without consequences.

In general, warm! Just a little bit faster...

Hello, dear fellow motorists. The question of warming up the engine has always been quite acute, and especially with the onset of winter cold. There are both opponents and supporters of a long warm-up, and they give quite strong arguments. And how not to get confused here, especially for a novice driver. Do not want to talk big words, but my education and experience in operating cars allow me to express an opinion on this topic. Your attention to the answer to the question: do I need to warm up the engine in winter?

We will not be guided by rumors and first of all we will open the instruction manual for any modern car. What is written there? And there it is written in black and white that the car engine does not need to be warmed up.

Having voiced this information, the manufacturer does not in any way worry about the resource of your car. No, in principle, he doesn’t care how much pass the engine Your car is 300 or 320 thousand km, since by this time the warranty will end a long time ago. The manufacturer pursues selfish goals:

Specify the lowest possible fuel consumption per 100 km, because when you are standing, fuel is consumed, and the mileage is not added.
Satisfy the environmentalists. Modern Euro standards severely limit the content of toxic substances during the start-up and warm-up of the internal combustion engine. And here the first batch is played by a re-enriched working mixture, that is, the mixture that contains gasoline in large quantities. As you know, it is not gasoline itself that burns, but its vapors. In severe frost, gasoline does not really want to evaporate and the air from the street enters the cylinders cold, which means with a high density. The following situation develops, in order to compensate for the low volatility of the fuel and the high density of air, it is necessary to supply to the cylinders more gasoline. And what is not completely evaporated - flies "into the pipe".

The second opinion is diametrically opposite - the engine must be warmed up until the arrow leaves the blue zone or reaches the operating temperature of 90 degrees Celsius. Just when the arrow rises to operating temperature, the engine is fully warmed up, and you can hit the road.

I can immediately point out the inaccuracy in these arguments. Recall what temperature the arrow shows? Coolant temperature. It must be remembered that for power unit more important parameter is the oil temperature. Its fluidity and pumpability through the lubrication system depend on how warm it is, and this, in turn, affects the formation of an oil (protective) film on rubbing parts.

Coolant and oil temperatures differ quite significantly. As studies show: when warmed up to 90 degrees, the oil gains a temperature of only about 40–55.

By no means do I want to say that there is no need to warm up the car, but I want to emphasize that raising the arrow to operating temperature does not at all indicate that the power unit has completely warmed up.

Carburetor ICE

For carburetor engines, the first option will not work, here you can’t do without warming up. Even if closed air damper, as a result of which the speed will rise, and a mixture enriched with fuel will be supplied to the cylinders, the engine will still work unstably.

Therefore, the verdict is unequivocal, on machines where such an atavism as a carburetor is in the power system, the internal combustion engine is subject to mandatory warm-up. Warm up until the engine starts to run steadily.

And here it is better not to take risks, but to carve out additional time (usually 10 minutes is enough) to warm up the engine. Since if the engine stalls on the road, then there will be little pleasure, and even more vacuum booster brakes, works due to the vacuum inside the cylinders. We have the following picture, if the engine has stalled - there is no vacuum and try to push the brake pedal when there is a strong "minus" on the street: brake fluid thickened, the seals of the main and slave cylinders were hardened ...

Injection ICE

In contrast to the carburetor engine, injection engines have become more technologically advanced, namely, they have received electronic system engine control, which itself selects the optimal composition working mixture, which allows the engine not to "stall cold" and warm up faster.

Also, in modern power units, high-tech oils are used with the appropriate type of motor and tolerance, which reduce friction in loaded nodes.

Therefore, for owners of injection engines, I propose the following algorithm of actions:

Despite the fact that automakers do not recommend prolonged warm-up at idle, remember - they are pursuing selfish goals (environmental). In our country, not everyone is worried about this. Remember thirty-year-old KamAZ trucks flying on our roads and releasing kilograms of soot on passers-by. It’s better to warm the engine and it obviously won’t get worse from this, but if you are limited in time, then you can start moving after 1 minute, we set aside this time for the oil to splatter in the engine, that is, it gets on all rubbing parts. Naturally, the first kilometers in this case should pass without sudden acceleration and it is advisable not to increase the speed above 2000–2200 per minute.

Also, prolonged warming up makes it possible to obtain warm air from the air vents, and, accordingly, the ability to melt the ice on the windows, which has a positive effect on visibility.

Separately, I would like to say a few words about turbocharged engines. These engines provide high traction and speed properties of the car with a small working volume. Since the working volume is small, the losses involved in heating the unit and, accordingly, heating the coolant are also not large, and it can take a very long time to wait for the turbocharged internal combustion engines to warm up at idle.

Warming up cars with automatic

In addition to the engine itself, the transmission and chassis. Oil in the box when the engine warms up to idling almost does not heat up, and gains operating temperature only after 20–30 km. run. This is especially critical for designs that include a torque converter ().

To warm up the oil in the machine, you need to move the selector to position D (with your foot on the brake pedal) and wait 2-4 minutes.

Possibility of being fined

In some developed European states Legislative provisions prohibit long work engine at idle. It turns out that in winter, standing car it is necessary to freeze, and in the summer to bathe without air conditioning.

But this is in Europe, and in most regions of Russia, an alarm system with auto start or autonomous heating installation this is not a luxury at all, but a winter necessity. Although the use of autorun in a residential area is not always legal.

If you open the text of the traffic rules, then there, in paragraph 17.2, it is written in black and white: "Parking with a running engine is prohibited in a residential area." Accordingly, if there is a clause of the rules, then, accordingly, there is a fine for its violation.

Part 1 of Article 12.19 of the Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation, the driver faces a warning or an administrative fine of 100 rubles.

Therefore, if the fact of parking is fixed, i.e. the movement is stopped for more than 5 minutes, then the traffic police can write out a protocol. By the way, such operations are periodically carried out in microdistricts of large cities.

In the text of a rather long story, almost every car owner will find for himself the answer to the question of warming up or not warming up the car engine. All trouble-free winter operation car, see you soon.

The issue of warming up the engine with the onset of cold weather is one of the most discussed topics. If the situation with the old ones is clear (it is necessary to warm up such a unit before a trip, otherwise the engine will work unstably until a certain warm-up, failures occur, the engine stalls), then everything is not so simple. Available a large number of supporters and opponents of warming up a modern injection engine before driving. The fact is that injection engines have become much more technologically advanced units, equipped with complex ones, the materials for manufacturing the parts of the power unit themselves have changed, engine oils have been improved, etc.

An engine with an injector after a cold start works quite normally, that is, in fact, you can immediately start moving. At the same time, many drivers are still of the opinion that such an engine must be preheated, especially in winter. Others, on the contrary, argue that modern motor does not need warming up. In this article we will talk about whether it is necessary to warm up injection engine to what temperature you need to warm up the engine in winter, and also how you can raise internal combustion engine temperature before starting and how to make it easier to start the engine in winter.

Read in this article

Warming up the engine in winter on a modern car

Let's start with the fact that in the technical manual for the vast majority modern cars it is specifically stated that the engine does not need to be warmed up before the trip. Manufacturers pay attention to the fact that engine oil and other technical fluids heat up evenly in motion at low speeds. In other words, production technologies and high-quality technical fluids allow you to start moving in a gentle mode without much damage to the engine's engine life.

Note that the main purpose of such statements is the desire of manufacturers to convince car owners that the engine does not need to be heated. This is done primarily for the sake of the environment, and not for the sake of increasing the life of the power unit. It is a well-known fact that any motor warms up faster in motion, and with an increase in temperature it starts to work and catalytic converter. It is quite obvious that warming up at idle takes longer, fuel consumption during warming up the engine in winter is increased. For these reasons, it is proposed to heat the unit on the move in order to reduce the toxicity of exhaust gases as soon as possible.

Let us add that in many European countries, at the legislative level, separate norms are fixed that prohibit warming up or prolonged engine idling in a residential area, etc. In other words, you can not warm up the engine in winter or let the engine idle in summer, otherwise the driver may be fined. Taking into account the fact that in the CIS a car for a large number of people continues to be an object of great material value and environmental standards are not so strict, increased attention is primarily paid to the serviceability of the power unit. It should also be added that the mild climate of Europe with its moderate temperatures cannot be compared with the severe operating conditions of internal combustion engines in severe frosts, which are relevant for our winters.

Supporters of not warming up argue that the car manufacturer would never have indicated in the manual that you can go right away, warming up the engine on the go. The main argument is concern for the reputation of the brand, as well as warranty obligations in front of the consumer. We can agree with this, but only partially. A common practice today is to guarantee new car, which is, on average, 100-150 thousand km. run. Note that this indicator nurses almost any modern engine without serious damage. In other words, the margin of safety assumes such operation without warming up, subject to a number of additional conditions. At the same time, not every driver in the CIS changes his car for a new one at the end of warranty period, and also not ready to do after 100-150 thousand kilometers traveled. Given all of the above, it becomes clear that the laws of physics and features ICE operation neither technology nor the most modern oils can seriously affect. If you intend to maximize the life of the power unit, then the motor should be warmed up.

How and how much to warm up the engine in winter

So, we decided on the need for warming up. The fact is that many people mistakenly accept general temperature engine for the temperature of the coolant (it is this indicator that displays the temperature gauge on the instrument panel of civilian cars). At the same time, one should not forget that for internal combustion engines in winter it is much more important indicator is the temperature engine oil. The degree of heating of the oil determines its fluidity, pumpability and efficiency of formation protective film on details.

Since it is well known that in a cold engine, the gaps are increased (the parts shrink when cooled, and expand when heated) and the oil thickens, then it becomes clear that even minimal loads on the internal combustion engine can lead to defects. In other words, the pressure in the lubrication system may not be enough, the oil film breaks, dry friction occurs, scoring and other damage to the surfaces of loaded elements appear.

It is also important to know that coolant temperature and engine oil temperature are very different. Warming up the coolant to 90 degrees Celsius is accompanied by the fact that the oil has warmed up to only 40-55 degrees. For this reason, starting the engine in cold weather means that the lubricant will warm up much longer compared to the coolant. You can also add that the consumption of gasoline when the engine is warmed up in winter in motion will be increased at the initial stage compared to fuel consumption when warming up at idle.

Given the above features, it becomes clear that it is optimal to warm up the car from 5 to 15 minutes at idle (depending on outdoor temperature and certain conditions). For example, on many cars, remove frozen ice and snow from windshield it will not work until the moment when it comes out of the deflectors warm air, and immediately driving with an icy windshield is simply unsafe. Of course, some drivers remove ice using special defrosting compounds or use a scraper, but in this case, additional financial costs for auto chemicals will be required, and there is also a risk of scratching Windshield. Comfort can be considered another weighty argument in favor of warming up, so immediately getting into a frozen interior and starting to move is not particularly pleasant.
After warm air began to blow from the air ducts and the temperature arrow began to rise slightly from the minimum mark, you can start moving. It is no longer advisable to warm the engine at idle, as the engine will warm up very slowly. When driving, you need to move smoothly, on low gears, while not spinning the internal combustion engine above 2-2.5 thousand rpm. Sharp accelerations, and also not allowed. Also, one should not forget that not only the engine needs to be warmed up, but also the transmission, as well as the chassis. According to many experts, the oil in the box almost does not heat up at idle and warms up to operating temperature only after 20-30 kilometers.

If you carry out sudden changes in load conditions while driving, then a large number of mating parts are subjected to accelerated wear. In other words, as long as thermal gaps will not return to normal, and also there will be no complete dilution of working fluids, even medium loads on the power unit and other components of the vehicle should be avoided. Ignoring these rules will result in increased consumption engine oil, occurrence, scoring, etc.

We add that, in addition to the engine, hydraulic components suffer ( steering rack with power steering), shock absorbers, etc. In the process of heating such parts and assemblies, for a couple of kilometers, avoid driving through pits and sharp inversions of wheels on high angle. This statement is also true for rear-wheel drive / all-wheel drive cars that are equipped with gearboxes with oil. Without preheat lubrication, these elements can also quickly fail under load. Finally, we add that it is necessary to heat both, and motors with. The fact is that the turbine is a rather sensitive element to the quality of the lubricant. Minimum warm-up at idle for the initial dilution of oil and other technical fluids is also required, after which such units are further warmed up on the go.

How to start the engine in winter and make cold starts easier

If the car is operated in a climatic zone where there is a significant seasonal drop in temperature or frost is almost constant, then it is worth considering how to warm up the engine in winter before starting. Using solutions such as installing preheater engine, electric heating of the engine in winter and other developments in this area make it easy to start, increase the efficiency and comfort of operation of gasoline and diesel vehicles at low temperatures.

We add that if the car is located in a region where the climate is temperate, then it will be enough to know how to keep the engine warm in winter without major modifications. We are talking about . In some cases, a car blanket, hood insulation, or even a simple cardboard damper in front of the radiator is enough. This approach allows you to accelerate the warm-up after starting and increase the cooling time of the engine in winter during parking.

It should be noted that most modern car alarms today are equipped with useful feature, which allows you to implement auto-heating of the engine in winter. In this case, even if there is no such option initially, you can install . This decision allows you to start the engine remotely, that is, the car will already be warmed up at idle by the time the driver intends to make a trip. Autostart can be configured so that the car will start, for example, every two hours. This will prevent the engine from cooling too much during parking, which minimizes possible problems cold start in severe frosts just before the trip itself.

Difficult cold start

In addition to all of the above, the following factors affect the operation of the power unit at low temperatures:

Type of fuel- a car equipped with a diesel engine necessarily requires winter diesel fuel.
Fuel supply type- Old cars with carburetor injection often feature manual throttle control.
Availability of automatic transmission or manual transmission- one way or another, there is oil in the gearbox, which also changes its viscosity at low temperatures.
Computerized engine warm-up control- the on-board controller selects the most optimal mixture supply, while the power unit enters the operating temperature mode in the shortest possible time.

While approaching the operating temperature range, the viscosity of the fluids becomes normal and problems with lubrication and increased mechanical wear of the engine and gearbox elements are relegated to the background. Another purpose of warming up the engine in winter is to bring the cabin to a comfortable state, as well as to defrost the windows.

Engine start button

Do I need to warm up the engine in winter

It should start with what technical guidance The manual for most modern cars says that there is no need to warm up the engine before driving. Manufacturers indicate that engine oil and other technical fluids heat up evenly when driving at low speeds. That is, ICE manufacturing technologies and high-quality technical fluids make it possible to start driving in a gentle mode, without causing much damage to the engine's engine life.

The main purpose of such statements is the desire of manufacturers to convince car owners that it is not necessary to warm the engine. This was done, first of all, not for the sake of increasing the service life of the motor, but for the sake of the environment. It is a well-known fact that any engine in motion warms up faster, and with an increase in temperature, the catalyst begins to function. Obviously, warming up the internal combustion engine at idle takes longer, and fuel consumption increases when the engine warms up in winter. For these reasons, it is suggested to warm up the engine while driving in order to reduce the toxicity of exhaust gases as quickly as possible.

It is worth noting that in many European countries certain norms are enshrined in legislation that prohibit warming up or long operation of the motor at the twentieth in a residential area. That is, it is forbidden to warm up the engine in the winter or let the engine idle in the summer, otherwise the driver may be fined. Taking into account the fact that a car in the territory of the CIS for most people remains the subject of significant material value, and environmental standards are not so strict, increased attention is paid, first of all, to the serviceability of the engine. It is also worth noting that the mild European climate cannot be compared with the difficult operating conditions of engines in severe frosts that are relevant for our winters.

But supporters of the refusal to warm up say that the car manufacturer would never indicate in the manual that you can go right away, warming up the engine on the go. The main argument is concern about the reputation of the brand and warranty obligations to the buyer. One can agree with this opinion, but only partially. A common practice today is a guarantee for a new car, which, on average, is 100-150 thousand kilometers. Such an indicator nurses virtually any modern motor without serious damage. That is, the margin of safety assumes such use without warming up, taking into account the observance of a number of additional conditions. However, not every car owner in the CIS changes his car to a new one at the end of the warranty period and is not ready to do overhaul after 100-150 thousand kilometers traveled. Given all of the above, it becomes clear that neither modern oils nor technologies are able to significantly affect the operation of internal combustion engines and the laws of physics. If you want to maximize the life of the motor, then the engine needs to be warmed up.

Do I need to warm up the carbureted engine

The modern automotive industry has abandoned engine equipment similar systems fuel supply. But, on our roads, quite often you can meet old Moskvich and Zhiguli, which continue to drive through the vast expanses of our country. To start a cold engine, the motorist has to play the role on-board computer, that is, independently adjust the fuel supply to the cylinders using the choke handle. Thanks to it, the required degree of enrichment of the mixture is achieved, which occurs through position control throttle valve carburetor. In this case, warming up the car in winter has the character of a certain ritual:

choke lever

First, warm up the battery - for this you need to briefly turn on the dipped beam (for about 30 seconds).
Turn off all unnecessary consumers of electrical energy - lights, fans, and so on.
Depress the clutch.
Pull the choke to the required level - it is not always necessary to shut off the air as much as possible, it depends on the condition of the engine and the ambient temperature.
Command the starter with the ignition key - if the engine does not start immediately, you need to try again after about 30 seconds, as the battery capacity will be restored during this time.
When the engine starts, adjust the idle speed - it should be about 1200 rpm. This is done using the suction handle.
Release the clutch pedal - in cold weather, the engine may then stall, since the viscosity of the oil in the gearbox can be very high.
After a while, turn on the stove fan and warm up the interior - it is not recommended to direct the hot stream directly onto the glass, since a crack can be obtained from a temperature drop.
During the engine warm-up, gradually remove the suction - in the operating temperature ranges, enrichment of the mixture is not required.
After warming up, completely remove the choke.

Some imported cars with carbureted engines equipped with automatic suction. The throttle control in this case occurs without the participation of the motorist.

Do I need to warm up a diesel engine?

Morning problems with starting a diesel engine are due to the fact that fuel has got into the gas tank, which does not correspond to winter conditions operation. In winter diesel fuel there are special additives that prevent thickening at low temperatures. Whether it is necessary to warm up a diesel engine in winter is a rhetorical question. Diesel engines same problems as gasoline ones. Plus, in the cold fuel filters clogged with hardened paraffins, and this reduces their permeability. When there is a lack of fuel, it is very difficult to start the engine.

There are several ways to deal with these phenomena:

glow plugs— heat the fuel to operating temperatures.
Winter additives are the most in a simple way- adding 5-15 percent low-octane gasoline to the fuel.
Return of warm fuel to the gas tank through the return line This is how the fuel is preheated.
Electric filter heating- melts paraffin deposits.

Do I need to warm up the injection engine

The supply of fuel to the cylinders through the injectors is controlled by the injection computer. The on-board controller analyzes information about the temperature of the air that enters the engine, the temperature of the engine itself, crankshaft speed and coolant temperature. Based on this information, the electronics instructs the servo to change the throttle position. It has become much easier to warm up a car in winter - you don’t need to perform any rituals, just start the engine. All other operations will be performed by the programmed machine.

If you left and did not wait for the engine to reach the working temperature range, observe the following rules:

For the first few kilometers, do not accelerate - the lubricant has not yet warmed up and the engine is operating in oil starvation mode.
The checkpoint is also still frozen - no need to operate it like Formula 1 racers.
There is no need to sharply load the suspension - the oil in the pillows under the engine and shock absorbers is still very viscous, these nodes should gradually come to working condition.

Modern cars are equipped various devices, facilitating the operation of the car in the cold season.

There is no need to think about how to warm up the interior of a car in the winter in a short time; for the comfort of passengers and the driver, there are such options:

Heated steering wheel.
Heated seats.
Heated front and rear windows.
Heated mirrors.
Climate control that heats the interior before the classic stove fires.

Of course, all these "bells and whistles" help the motorist to leave the parking lot faster in the morning after a frosty night. But do not forget that 10 minutes of operation of a cold engine can be equated to 100 km. run. The piston group wears out, first of all, due to the fact that the piston made of aluminum alloy heats up much faster than the steel cylinder liner. At the same time, the gaps are significantly reduced, and the oil does not provide the required lubrication due to high viscosity. Liners, rings, gearbox bearings suffer. Of course, modern additives are able to smooth out the strong dependence of oil viscosity on temperature, but no one has yet repealed the laws of physics.

From the foregoing, we can conclude that heating vehicle in winter it is necessary to extend the life of the motor and gearbox. The warm-up time depends on the type of power unit and gearbox. If the frost is small, 3-5 minutes will be enough to warm up the oil. But to free the glass from frost, it will take a little more time.