Error codes kia sportage 3 diesel. Kia Sportage (2013)

20.06.2019

Troubleshooting

Description of diagnostics of electronic control systems and diagnostic codes are given in the Head of the Power supply system, engine management / reducing the toxicity of exhaust gases and the release of exhaust gases (engine), as well as in the Heads Automatic transmission, Brake system and Onboard electrical equipment (AT, ABS / EBD, SRS and immobilizer).

This section offers the most simple circuit finding out the causes of malfunctions and failures occurring in nodes and systems vehicle. Failures and their possible causes are divided into groups based on their relationship to certain components or vehicle systems, such as engine, cooling system, etc., in addition, the text provides links to chapters and sections related to these problems.

Remember that the successful completion of troubleshooting is determined by a combination of specific knowledge and a patient, systematic approach to investigating the problem. You should always move from simple to complex, bring each check to its logical conclusion and try not to miss obvious facts - anyone can forget to fill the fuel tank or leave lights on at night.

Finally, you should always try to get a clear picture of the development of the malfunction and take appropriate steps to prevent recurrence. If the failure of the electrical equipment occurred due to a violation of the quality of the contact, check at the same time the condition of all other contacts and electrical connectors of the system. If the same fuse continues to blow several times in a row, there is no point in replacing it further - you must try to find out the cause of the failure. Remember that the failure of a minor component may be a sign of a malfunction of a more important node or the entire system.

Engine

Basic Checks for Difficulty Starting the Engine

If the engine does not start, you should try to calmly analyze the situation.

Petrol models

visual inspection

Evaluate the external condition of all electrical wiring in the engine compartment, make sure that there are no signs of insulation integrity violation, oxidation and loosening of contact connections. Check if there are knocked-out fuses in the mounting block, if the case is cracked battery. Further it is necessary to make sure of correctness of laying, serviceability of a condition and reliability of fastening of vacuum hoses, - in case of need address data of the information label VECI (see in Section Identification numbers and information labels). Be sure to also check the intake air duct components for signs of leaks.

Mechanical checks

If visual inspection fails to reveal any obvious violations, it is necessary to carry out compression pressure test in the engine cylinders. The description of check is resulted in the Section Check of a compression pressure, an assessment of a condition of cylinders.

Another important mechanical check is checking the patency of the engine exhaust tract. Checking can be done with a pressure gauge or a vacuum gauge. In the first case, unscrew the heated lambda probe, or the control valve of the air mixing system into the exhaust (depending on the configuration). Screw a pressure gauge with a measurement range of 0 ÷ 0.35 kgf / cm2 into place of the removed component and start the engine at 2500 revolutions per minute - if the backpressure in the exhaust tract is more than 0.14 kgf / cm2, therefore, there is a violation of the patency - most likely the catalytic converter. If using a vacuum gauge, connect it to the intake manifold vacuum fitting, start the engine, and read the gauge. Partially open and lock the throttle - a slow drop in the depth of vacuum after stabilization of the speed will also indicate a violation of the exhaust tract.

Fuel Checks

Make sure that during the operation of the pre-glow system (the control lamp is on), all on-board electrical consumers (lights, rear window heating, radio, etc.) are turned off.

Startup is incorrect. Proceed as follows: Arm parking brake, depress the clutch pedal, on models with AT, move the selector lever to the “P” or “N” position. Turn the ignition key to position 2 and wait for the preheat indicator lamp to turn off. As soon as the lamp goes out, start the engine without depressing the gas pedal.

At unstable engine speeds (for example, during misfires), in order to avoid damage to the catalytic converter, try to turn on the engine only for a short time and avoid excessive loads - drive the car to a KIA service station as soon as possible.

Petrol models

There are vacuum losses. Make sure that the fixing bolts/nuts are securely tightened, check the fact and quality of fastening on your fittings on the inlet pipeline of all vacuum hoses. Listen to the running engine with a stethoscope or a piece of fuel hose. The presence of a hissing sound will reveal the source of the “leakage” of the vacuum, - you can use a solution of soapy water to check just as effectively. The tightness of the landing of the inlet pipeline on the cylinder head is broken. The lining of a head of cylinders is punched, - make measurement of a compression pressure in cylinders of the engine (the Engine see the Head). Worn timing drive components. Worn cam lugs camshaft. The engine is overheated. The patency of the valve of the crankcase ventilation system is broken. There are leaks at the exhaust gas system (EGR) valve. There is a malfunction of the functioning of the components of the power system or electrical equipment. Violated patency air filter. The fuel pump does not deliver enough fuel to the injection system injectors.

Diesel models

The quality of the connections of the fuel hoses on the injection pump and the fuel filter is broken. The fastening of the injection pump has loosened. The connections of the return pipeline and the fuel supply pipeline are reversed. There is damage in the fuel lines. The patency of the return fuel path is broken. The speed control of the slow idle move. Air got into the power system - “pump” the system. The adjustment of the start of fuel supply is knocked down. The injectors are faulty, - when the union nut of the fuel line of the faulty injector is loosened, the engine speed will not drop. Faulty fuel pump high pressure(TNVD). Install a new or known-good injection pump for testing.

There are gaps in the work of the cylinders on idling

The fuel filter is clogged, or the patency of the fuel path is impaired. Faulty or dirty spark plugs or incorrectly set spark plug gap (petrol engines). Faulty components of the power system or electrical equipment. There is a defect in the electrical wiring. Components of systems of decrease in toxicity of the fulfilled gases are faulty. Insufficient or unevenly distributed compression pressure between the cylinders. Faulty ignition system. There is vacuum loss at the throttle body, intake manifold, or through the vacuum hoses. Worn valve train. The valve timing is out of order. The patency of the inlet pipeline is broken. The adjustment of the start of fuel supply is knocked down diesel engine. The car is filled with diesel fuel of poor quality.

The engine spontaneously stalls

Idle speed control broken. The patency of the fuel filter is broken, or moisture or dirt has got into the power system. There is a failure of the components / information sensors of the power system. Components of systems of decrease in toxicity of the fulfilled gases are faulty. Spark plugs are faulty or dirty or the candle gap is incorrectly exposed (see the Head Routine leaving and service). If equipped, also check the condition of the BB wiring. There is vacuum loss at the throttle body or through the vacuum hoses.

The engine does not develop full power

There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment. The air cleaner is clogged or the intake air path is otherwise obstructed. Faulty spark plugs or incorrectly set spark plug gap (petrol engines). Faulty ignition coil (gasoline engines). The level of ATF has fallen (see the Head Routine care and maintenance). Transmission slips. Blocked fuel filter and/or dirt/moisture in the fuel system. Wrong grade of fuel filled. Damaged turbocharger control valve (if equipped). Insufficient compression pressure, or its uniform distribution between the cylinders is disturbed. Valves are stuck or valve springs are weak. Broken cylinder head gasket. Clutch slips (models with manual transmission). The engine is overheated. There are vacuum losses. Camshaft lobes worn out. The installation of the gas distribution phases is violated. There are leaks in the fuel pump. The patency of the exhaust gas system is broken.

Optional for diesel engine

Faulty EGR valve. Clogged fuel filter or injection pump/injector. Lid valve clogged fuel tank(with appropriate configuration). The patency of the fuel path in the area between the high-pressure fuel pump and the fuel tank is broken. The patency of the return fuel line is broken. The uniformity of fuel supply to the cylinders is disturbed - adjust on a warm engine. Incorrectly set the moment of the beginning of the injection of fuel injection pump. The adjustment of the maximum speed of the crankshaft is violated.

There are pops in the intake system or shots in the exhaust system

The functioning of the components of the power system or electrical equipment is broken. There is a defect in the secondary circuit of the ignition system of a gasoline engine (destruction of spark plug insulators or damage to explosive wiring). The fuel injection system needs to be adjusted, or its components are excessively worn. There is vacuum loss at the throttle body, intake manifold, or through the vacuum hoses. Seizes valves. The setting of the ignition advance angle is violated, for example, as a result of incorrect connection of the explosive wiring. Faulty EGR valve. A lean air-fuel mixture enters the cylinders.

Detonation sounds occur when accelerating or going uphill

Filled with low quality fuel. The functioning of the components of the power system or electrical equipment is broken. Wrong type of spark plugs installed (petrol engines). The basic settings of the ECM are violated. Faulty knock sensor. There are vacuum losses.

Engine continues to run after key is turned to position 0

Excessively high idle speed. There is a malfunction of the electrical equipment, control components or shut-off fuel valve(diesel models). The EVAP canister purge valve has malfunctioned. Excessive working temperature engine. Possible causes of this problem could be a low coolant level, a failed thermostat, a blocked radiator, or a faulty water pump.

Excessively smoky diesel engine exhaust

Black smoke: Air cleaner dirty, flush and refill fresh butter or replace the filter element; Wrong fuel used, - flush the tank and change the fuel; The moment of the start of the injection pump supply is incorrectly set, or the pump itself is faulty; The injector valve seal is broken. Check the operation of the injectors on the stand, if necessary, disassemble and lap the valve, or replace the injector assembly. Faulty EGR valve. Blue smoke: Oil enters the combustion chamber (s) due to wear of the piston rings, its presence in the air cleaner, wear of the seals in the turbocharger covers, the formation of leaks in the gasket between the crankcase and the turbocharger - repair the engine, replace the seals, tighten turbocharger mounting bolts or replace the gasket; The fuel supply to one of the injectors is disrupted - check by heating the exhaust pipes of the manifold; The quality of fuel atomization by the injector is impaired due to a valve malfunction or an atomizer break, - grind the valve or replace the injector. White or brown smoke: The coolant temperature is insufficient, - check the thermostat; The functioning of the nozzles is broken due to wear or breakage of the atomizer - replace the atomizer.

Engine electrical equipment

The contact terminals of the electrical wiring must be securely fastened and not oxidized!

If the starter does not turn, first of all, you should make sure that the necessary voltage (minimum 10 V) is present at terminal No. 50 of the traction relay. If the test results are negative, evaluate the condition of the wiring. To check the correct operation of the starter at full battery voltage, do the following: Without engaging gears, turn the key to the “ON” position; Bridge terminals 30 and 50 of the starter with a wire of at least 4 mm2.

If now the starter works flawlessly, the cause of the malfunction should be sought in the condition of its wiring, otherwise remove the starter and take it to a service station for inspection in stationary conditions, after making sure that there are no signs of oxidation of the contact terminals for connecting the wiring.

Starter does not turn

Low battery. Bridge terminals 30 and 50 of the starter: if the starter rotates, check the wire 50 connected to the lock for an open, also evaluate the condition of the starter switch. The ground wire is broken, or the quality of its terminal connection is broken, the battery is discharged. There is a weakening of the current strength due to a violation of the quality or oxidation of the contact connections. There is no voltage at terminal 50 of the traction relay as a result of a broken electrical wiring or damage to the starter switch. out of order contact Group ignition lock. Faulty starter relay or motor. Faulty start enable switch (AT) / starter circuit opening (MCP).

The starter rotates slowly and does not turn the crankshaft

Refer to Engine Won't Crank When Trying to Start.

Low battery. The engine is filled with excessively thick (for current weather conditions) oil. Loose or oxidized connectors of the electrical wiring of the connectors. The carbon brushes are loose on the commutator, wedged in the guides, worn, broken, oily or dirty. Not enough distance between brushes and commutator. Collector c is furrowed, burnt or oily. No voltage at terminal 50 (minimum 8 V). Broken bearing. Faulty traction relay. There is an internal mechanical damage to the starter. The starter overrunning clutch is slipping, or the flywheel ring gear is damaged.

The starter "grabs", but provides only a jerky cranking of the engine

Defective gear drive. The gear is dirty. Flywheel ring gear damaged.

Starter gear does not disengage from flywheel/drive plate ring gear

Dirty or damaged gear drive components. Faulty traction relay. The starter drive thrust spring has weakened.

The starter continues to work after the ignition key is released

The traction relay is jammed - immediately turn off the ignition and replace the traction relay. The contact group of the ignition switch is faulty. Loose starter mounting hardware. Worn starter drive assembly components. Weak or broken starter drive assembly return spring.

The functioning of the starter is accompanied by a high-frequency squeal

The screech appears during cranking and disappears after the ignition is carried out.

Excessive clearance between starter gear and flywheel ring gear.

The screech appears after the engine is started.

Insufficient clearance between starter gear and flywheel ring gear.

Supply system

Excessive fuel consumption

All models

Air cleaner element dirty or blocked. Insufficient tire pressure or wrong size tires fitted. The engine has mechanical damage. Check the compression, if necessary, make the appropriate reconditioning. Excessively high idling speed / maximum speed during operation.

Petrol models

Faulty components of the power system, electrical equipment or electronic control. There are leaks in the intake air path. There is damage to the exhaust system/catalytic converter.

diesel engine

Clogged fuel return line. Blow out the pipeline with air in the direction from the injection pump to the fuel tank. The tightness of the fuel system is broken. Visually check all fuel lines (supply, return, pressure), fuel filter and injection pump. Check the system for leaks.

There are fuel leaks and/or a smell of gasoline

There are leaks in the fuel/vent lines. The fuel tank is overfilled - refuel only until automatic shutdown pistol. There are leaks / evaporation from the lines of power systems and reduce the toxicity of exhaust gases.

Engine won't start

Petrol models

When the starter is turned on, the electric fuel pump is not activated (there is no characteristic sound). Tap the pump body lightly to release the stuck element. Check the serviceability of the power supply to the pump (evaluate the safety of the protective fuse and the reliability of the fastening of the contact terminals of the corresponding electrical wiring). Faulty fuel pump relay. Stuck injector valves. Check injectors, replace if necessary. Check the power supply to the injectors, - disconnect the injector connector, connect the diode probe lamp to the wire and turn on the starter, - the lamp should start flashing. No signal from CKP ignition sensor or coolant temperature sensor. Check the condition of the relevant electrical wiring, interrogate the memory of the on-board self-diagnosis (OBD) system. The patency of the fuel lines is broken. Fuel filter clogged. The tightness of the intake air duct is broken. Vacuum hoses are damaged, or there is a violation of the tightness of their fit. Pressure regulator damaged - check residual pressure. Damaged position sensor throttle valve(TPS). No power to the engine electronic control module (ECM). The fuel tank vent is clogged, the filter in the tank is clogged. The preheater does not work. Diesel engine fuel cut-off valve damaged.

Diesel models

Glow plugs are not working. Check. Fuel cut off valve does not open. Check the shut-off valve, engine control units and anti-theft alarms. There is a malfunction in the fuel supply system: The patency of the fuel lines is broken; Clogged fuel filter; Ice/wax has accumulated in the fuel filter or lines (in winter); The ventilation tract of the fuel tank is clogged, or the filter in the tank is blocked. The setting of the fuel injection moment is broken. Injector(s) damaged. Injection pump is faulty - try installing a new or known-good pump.

Cold engine starts poorly, runs erratically

First the light bulb check engine” will light for a couple of seconds and then go out. And her next flashes will mean error codes.

But I will say that I have two mistakes - "17" and "36". You can check the video)

Here is a table for decoding error codes on the Kia Sportage:

02 - Crank angle sensor. (Distributor no Signal)

03 - Phase sensor (camshaft sensor). (Distributor G Signal)

07 - Incorrect mounting of the corner mark wheel (crankshaft). (Fault on SGT Signal)

08 - Air flow sensor. (Mass Air Flow Sensor)

09 - Coolant temperature sensor. liquids. (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor)

10 - Air temperature sensor. (Intake Air Temperature Sensor.)

12 - Throttle position sensor. (Throttle Position Sensor)

14 - Atmospheric pressure sensor. (Atmospheric Pressure Sensor)

15 - Oxygen sensor (lambda probe). (Oxygen Sensor)

16 - EGR Valve Position Sensor.

17 - System feedback. (Feedback System)

18 - Injector No. 1. (Injector No. 1 open or short)

20 - Injector No. 3. (Injector No. 3 open or short)

21 - Injector No. 4. (Injector No. 4 open or short)

24 - Fuel pump relay. (Fuel Pump Relay open or short)

25 - Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid Valve.

26 - Fuel vapor accumulator valve. (Purge Control Solenoid Valve)

28 - Recirculation valve gases. (Solenoid Valve (EGR) open or short)

34 - Regulator valve XX. (Idle Speed Control Solenoid Valve)

35 - Injector malfunction. (Deteriorated Injector)

36 - Damage to the air flow sensor. (Deteriorated Air Flow Sensor)

37 - Leakage of the intake system. (Intake System Air Leakage)

41 - Variable Inertia Charging System Solenoid Valve.

46 - A/C Cut Relay open or short.

48 - Power Stage Group 1 Malfunction (inside ECM). Injector 1-4 Purge Solenoid Valve, EGR Solenoid Valve or Damaged Power Stage.

49 - Power Stage Group 2 Malfunction (inside ECM). Idle Speed Control Valve Failure or Damaged Power Stage.

56 - Regulator valve XX. (Idle Speed Control Valve Closing Coil open or short)

57 - Input signal of the air conditioning compressor. (A/C Compressor Input Signal short)

73 - Engine speed sensor. (Vehicle Speed Sensor open or short)

87 - CHEK indicator lamp circuit. (Malfunction Indicator Lamp short Circuit)

88 - Malfunction of the PROM of the control unit. (ECM Data)

99 - Battery. (Battery)

And here is the contact diagram:

Reading trouble codes for a KIA Sportage car KIA Sportage

Reading ABS/EBD trouble codes, clearing processor memory

Reading

PROCEDURE

When the ignition is switched on, the ABS/EBD Electronic Control Unit (ECU) monitors the status of the components in each of the circuits in both systems. If a violation is detected, the corresponding fault code is entered in the processor memory, and the corresponding fault code is activated in the instrument cluster of the car.

control lamp (ABS or brake system).

Reading the codes stored in the memory of the block can be done using a special Hi-scan pr scanner connected to the DLC diagnostic connector fixed on the air cleaner housing, equipped with a protective cover (see Power supply systems, engine management / reducing toxicity of exhaust gases and exhaust gases).

Switch off the ignition and connect the scanner 3. to the DLC.

Turn on the ignition and select the correct name of the make and model of the car (KIA Sportage) in the scanner menu.

After initializing the scanner, select the item to be polled.

Activate the procedure for outputting trouble codes (No. 1), - all four-digit DTCs stored in the memory of the processor of the control module will begin to be displayed on the scanner screen.

The codes will continue to be output until the processor memory is cleared.

Make the necessary corrections, then clear the processor memory.

Clearing memory

PROCEDURE

After correcting the problem, verify that the controlled system (ABS / EBD) is functioning properly, then activate the processor memory clearing procedure - menu item No. 4 - and press the Enter key on the scanner keyboard.

Kia manuals

In the States specifically for this model

build a plant with a capacity of 300,000 vehicles per year. In China in two

year, an assembly plant will also appear KIA Cerato. And Russia will still consume cars assembled in Korea itself. However, if the US

will only consume KIA Cerato sedan and coupe, and Europe

only hatchbacks, coupes and station wagons Cee'd. then the Russians will be provided with both

these models in all bodies. We have KIA Cerato with the sedan body, beloved here, will be an addition to the line KIA Cee'd.

Prices Cerato are expected

company representatives KIA promised to announce the final price list for

new Cerato. and before the May holidays start Russian sales

this model. In the race to bring new models to market KIA Cerato competently

ahead of his sworn Korean friend by several months chevrolet cruze.

How to find an open circuit or shorted wire the FAST easy way

This is the tool used in the video. Many people have asked for this link. Here you go!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000…

IF YOU'RE BLOWING FUSES WATCH THIS VIDEO https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZrCr… AND/OR my other video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6q4P… These will help you find a SHORTED WIRE that blows fuses. Thanks for reading this and good luck!

How to find an open circuit or shorted wire the FAST easy way. Also called a fox and hound tool, the tone generator and amplifier probe make finding an open circuit much faster and easier than using a continuity tester or circuit probe. Extech 40180

05.10.2014

KIA Sportage (KIA Sportage / Sportage), release of 2013. Client claims:
- a light is on on the instrument panel ABS systems
- the ESP light on the instrument panel is on
- on the instrument panel, a warning about a malfunction of the Hill Start Assist is lit

Surprised, he asked the client:
- The car is still being serviced by dealers, have you contacted them?

The owner of the car nodded and replied that yes, he did, they kindly and quickly drove the car for repairs, did something there for half an hour, then gave it back. When they left, everything was working. But after some time, the problems reappeared. The client decided not to tempt fate and found our car service through the Internet and acquaintances.

In addition to the listed malfunctions, it was impossible to turn on the gear on the machine, the gear lever was blocked and to turn it on, it was necessary to unlock it forcibly, manually.

The situation is interesting, but before loading our heads with various complexities, let's start from a simple one?

For example, from the "assistant to start off on the rise." Nice feature. And not only for "blondes", people say that the function is necessary and helps. What is the working principle? This “assistant” helps when starting the car on the slopes, to transfer the foot from the brake pedal to the gas (accelerator) pedal without additional help from the parking brake - the system maintains pressure in the brake system for a couple of seconds, which is enough to start on the rise without problems.

First bell: "brake pedal". When the “assistant” is working, the brake pedal is involved, you need to see how it works and related electrical circuits. I press the brake pedal - rear lights do not burn. Of course, you can't drive like that...

(Why Motordata: because at that moment it was easiest to reach it, it always hangs and is loaded. Similarly, other programs - “hang and open”, where I reach faster, I look there. Naturally, if on the topic of the question) .

So, I’m already looking at the fuses on the spot, I see that the one we need is burned out. Put another one of the same and check again by pressing the brake?

(... I often read on the Internet: “- But I don’t bother! The fuse burned out - I put a new one to check. If it burned out again, then I look at the fuse, and only then at the whole circuit ... ".

In my opinion, it is wrong to do this - for this it is better to use a "load", a 55-watt light bulb, which is connected instead of a fuse. Saves time, money, mood and reputation.

On this machine: “We inserted the load - the light is off. Pressed on the brake - the light bulb lit up brightly, in full heat. What is the conclusion? Somewhere there is a short circuit that needs to be looked for ”(most likely a harness that goes to the brake lights).

This electrical harness runs to the left of the driver's foot, in the sill. I open it and am not even surprised. I just assess the situation. Was expecting something like this. Well, how not to take a photo of this monument, the work of masters from dealer center?

Look: the arrow points to the wire, which was laid by a crooked specialist. It's crooked, don't mind. And the wire lies exactly as it lay - going into a recess in the nut. What is a recess? Guessed, probably - the fastening clip is inserted here. I gently pulled this wire, and here they are - the consequences of inattention, which brazenly climb into the wallet of the car owner:

I hope everyone saw and understood the cause of the malfunction.

However, I don’t want to end this story on a sad note, I’ll give you advice: “If a car came to you for repairs from a dealer or from another car service, then first of all ask the client: “What did they do?”.

There is such a good practice: "one step back." - Did you install an alarm or some kind of “additional”? And in what place? Over there? Thank you!
We open the thresholds (for example) and here it is - a crooked malfunction!

Good luck everyone!

P.S. Of course, speaking in universal justice, it is not worth making global conclusions about all dealers from one or two cases. Well, yes, I got a chance, well, yes - “from the dealer”. But with the same success, such malfunctions can also come not from the dealer - they can be created by any other crooked auto electrician (namely, “crooked” and precisely “created”).

P.P.S. In his story, he used the word "curvature" a couple of times. It interested: “And how many times has this been said about this?”. It turns out - many times! Let me just give you three examples. (in articles on the Legion-Avtodata portal: there are many more of them).
- "Car repair. Recipe for happiness." -
- "Nissan Cedric/Gloria Y34 VQ30DD NeoDi and error P1145" -
- "Fiat Doblo 1.3 ( particulate filter, turbocharger)" -

In this article, I will briefly outline what most often breaks down on a Kia Sportage 3 car, model 2010-2016, with the factory designation Sl or Sle. I work at a service station and have practical experience in this matter. It will describe not only the typical "diseases" of the sportage, but also how to treat them. The article is designed to save the owner of such a car from many hours of searching for information in sections of automotive forums. It will also be useful to those who are just going to buy a used Sportage, because it is important to understand what should be checked when buying. If I suddenly missed something from the view, write in the comments.

All wheel drive not working!

A very common malfunction in the 3rd generation Sportage is a breakdown of the all-wheel drive system. It occurs even when the car is operated exclusively as an urban "SUV", without using the all-wheel drive lock function. After all, even if you do not press the 4WD lock button, the control unit automatically connects rear axle in moments sharp acceleration when starting off, or when the front wheels slip. Torque is constantly redistributed by the ITM unit between the front and rear wheels in a proportion from 100% - 0% to 50% - 50%, respectively.

There are two all-wheel drive malfunctions on the Sportage:

breakdown of the all-wheel drive coupling (PP);
corrosion of the spline connection between the gearbox (gearbox) and transfer case;

Moreover, the second malfunction occurs much more often than the first.

Malfunction of the PP engagement clutch

All-wheel drive clutch, Sportage; 1 - clutch package, 2 - pump

It appears as follows: no connection rear wheels, even in the 4WD lock mode (i.e. when the button is pressed), while the 4WD system malfunction lamp on the instrument panel is on. Important, that cardan shaft while it rotates!

If in in general terms, the clutch is conventional system with a multi-plate clutch pack that compresses under oil pressure. The pressure is generated by a pump mounted on the clutch housing.

Error codes "P1832 Clutch Thermal Overstress Shutdown" or "P1831 Clutch Thermal Overstress Warning" appear. Here is a detailed description of what exactly breaks in this case and how it can be repaired.

Especially often this happens when the clutch is overheated, with prolonged slippage. Or with frequent use of the 4WD lock mode. But this mode is intended only for short-term use on a site with difficult road conditions. Do not drive for a long time with the 4WD lock button pressed.

The problem is solved by replacing the PP clutch assembly. The part is not cheap, but there are companies that provide clutch repair services. These services are easy to find online.

Another possible failure is a malfunction of the clutch pump itself. In this case, error code P1822 or P1820 occurs. For this issue company KIA even issued a service bulletin, according to which of. the dealer must replace the clutch assembly.

If the car is not under warranty, you need to replace the pump separately, which will be much cheaper. Only the new pump has already been modified, and requires the purchase of wiring for it.

Part Numbers: 4WD Clutch Pump - 478103B520, pump wiring 478913B310

The price of a pump with wiring is approximately 22,000 rubles.

If you're buying a used Sportage, don't forget to check the car for these issues. The repair is quite expensive, it consists of the prices for differential parts (approx. 20,000 rubles) and the cost of the transfer case (600 USD price for a used one) and, of course, the work of removing the gearbox and replacing parts (up to 20,000 rubles).

List of necessary spare parts for the repair of all-wheel drive on Sportage 3, with OE numbers

Gears on a manual transmission do not turn on / it is difficult to turn on, or extraneous noise

This disease begins to manifest itself with a characteristic noise from the gearbox, which is heard when it is cold, when the engine is idling. The Service Bulletin for this issue prescribes the replacement of synchronizer rings for 4th, 5th and 6th gears of the manual transmission.

Sometimes the reason may be in the "synchronism" of the 3rd gear and the corresponding gear. Specifically, the reason is determined after disassembling the box.

If synchronizers are not replaced in time, more serious consequences may occur - fur. damage to the gear teeth, which entails their replacement, and, consequently, a more expensive repair.

The price of work usually costs up to $ 300. Plus the necessary parts.

The car does not drive, a strong rattle in the area of \u200b\u200bthe right wheel, a malfunction of the intermediate shaft

The problem is similar to the one described above with all-wheel drive. The spline connection between the right drive shaft and the inner CV joint is rotten. This happens due to the ingress of water through the stuffing box (or rather the anther). Further, corrosion does its job, the splines weaken and are completely cut off. With completely cut splines of the wash shaft, the car will be able to get to the service only when the all-wheel drive, because as a result of the operation of the differential, all the torque of the front axle will go to the right side.

Corrosion of splines of the promshaft and right drive, Sportage 3

Repair price: promshaft 4,500 rubles, right-hand joint up to 45,000 rubles.

As in the case of the razdatka-box connection, it is necessary to do preventive maintenance with the replacement of the oil seal and the application of lubricant, this will extend the life of the splines.

The engine does not develop more than 3000 rpm, the “CHECK” lamp is on or flashing

Of course, such symptoms are typical for many breakdowns of diesel cars. But here we are talking about the most frequent malfunctions, those that sooner or later happen on all Sportage.

This "disease" is typical for diesel trim levels, with R 2.0 and U2 1.7 engines. There are usually two reasons for these symptoms:

malfunction of the boost pressure sensor, on a car with a 2-liter engine;
malfunction of the boost pressure sensor wiring, on machines with a 1.7 engine;

In both cases, the control unit puts the engine into emergency mode, which means, in particular, cutting off the engine speed at around 3000 rpm. The driver has a feeling that the turbine simply does not work. This, of course, is not true.

A description of the diagnosis of electronic control systems and diagnostic codes are given in the Chapter (engine), as well as in the Chapters Automatic transmission, Brake system and Onboard electrical equipment (AT, ABS / EBD, SRS and immobilizer).

This section proposes the simplest scheme for finding out the causes of malfunctions and failures occurring in the components and systems of the vehicle. Failures and their possible causes are divided into groups based on their relationship to certain components or vehicle systems, such as engine, cooling system, etc., in addition, the text provides links to chapters and sections related to these problems.

Engine

Basic Checks for Difficulty Starting the Engine

If the engine does not start, you should try to calmly analyze the situation.

Petrol models

visual inspection

Evaluate the external condition of all electrical wiring in the engine compartment, make sure that there are no signs of insulation integrity violation, oxidation and loosening of contact connections. Check if there are knocked-out fuses in the mounting block, if the battery case is cracked. Further it is necessary to be convinced of correctness of laying, serviceability of a condition and reliability of fastening of vacuum hoses, - in case of need address data of the information label VECI (see in the Section Identification numbers and information labels). Be sure to also check the intake air duct components for signs of leaks.

Mechanical checks

Another important mechanical check is checking the patency of the engine exhaust tract. Checking can be done with a pressure gauge or a vacuum gauge. In the first case, unscrew the heated lambda probe, or the control valve of the air mixing system into the exhaust (depending on the configuration). Screw a pressure gauge with a measurement range of 0 ÷ 0.35 kgf / cm 2 into place of the removed component and start the engine at 2500 rpm, - if the backpressure in the exhaust tract is more than 0.14 kgf / cm 2, therefore, there is a violation of the patency, - most likely catalytic converter. If using a vacuum gauge, connect it to the intake manifold vacuum fitting, start the engine, and read the gauge. Partially open and lock the throttle - a slow drop in the depth of vacuum after stabilization of the speed will also indicate a violation of the exhaust tract.

Fuel Checks

At this stage of the basic diagnosis, the following checks should be made (see Power, Engine Control/Emission Control and Exhaust Systems):

Examination adjustable pressure fuel;
Checking the pressure in the fuel lines;
Checking the tightness of the components of the fuel path;
Checking the condition of the fuel pump relay;
Assessment of the condition of fuel injectors.

Checks of serviceability of functioning of system of ignition

First of all, you should make sure proper sparking on spark plugs, - checking is best done using a special tester. If violations are detected, measure the specific resistance of the explosive electrical wiring, - the measurement result should not exceed the value 16 kOhm/m.

Next, you should check the correctness of the power supply to the ignition coil and measure the resistance of the primary and secondary circuits of the coil (see Chapter).

Diesel models

Among the conditions, the fulfillment of which guarantees the successful start of any diesel engine include:

Sufficient to start the speed of the crankshaft of the engine;
Sufficient temperature of compressed air in the combustion chamber for self-ignition of fuel;
those. achievement of the specified compression pressure and, when starting in cold weather, the correct functioning of the glow plugs;
Injection of finely dispersed fuel into the combustion chambers at exactly the right moment.

First of all, you should make sure that the starter is in good condition, then check the fuel supply, nozzles and the operation of the pre-glow. The description of procedure of check of a condition of glow plugs is resulted in Section Check of glow plugs of the Head of System of an electric equipment of the engine.

Engine won't crank when trying to start it

Discharged or defective battery: if there are no violations in the previous paragraph, turn the ignition key to the ON position, then turn on the headlights and / or windshield wipers - the failure of the electrical appliances to function properly confirms the fact of an excessive decrease in the battery level.
The transmission is inaccurately set to the “P” position.
The wiring in the starting system circuit is broken or the wires are loose at the terminals.
The starter gear is wedged in the ring gear of the drive disk.
Faulty starter relay.
Starter defective.
Faulty ignition switch.

Engine cranks but won't start

Petrol models

- Engage the parking brake, depress the clutch and engage the neutral gear (manual transmission) / move the selector lever to the “P” or “N” (AT) position;
- Without depressing the gas pedal, turn the key in the ignition lock to the right until it stops. Release the key as soon as the engine starts. If a warm engine cannot be started by cranking it with the starter for more than 4 seconds, slowly depress the gas pedal. Do not crank the engine for more than 30 seconds in a row, wait at least 15 seconds before trying again;
- In areas where the outdoor temperature often drops below -20 ° C, it is recommended to install a coolant heater - a certificate on this issue can be obtained from any KIA service station.
The engine immobilizer is faulty or not disabled (if equipped).
Faulty electric fuel pump fuse or electronic system injection.
The fuel tank is empty or filled with low-quality fuel.
The air filter is heavily soiled.
As a result of leakage in intake tract air is sucked in, there are vacuum losses in the vacuum path.
There are vacuum losses in the air supply elements, malfunctions in the fuel injection and ignition control system.
The battery is discharged (insufficient engine cranking speed).
The battery terminal connections are oxidized or loose.
The fuel pump is faulty, or its relay is damaged - check by ear that the pump is activated when the ignition is turned on.
Damaged or excessively wet components of the ignition system.
Worn or defective spark plugs, or incorrectly set spark plug gap.
The electrical wiring of the starting system is broken or disconnected, or the fastening of the wires to the terminals is loose.
The wiring to the ignition coil is broken or disconnected, or the fastening of the wires to the coil terminals is loose.
The fuse of the engine control unit is damaged, the CKP sensor / impulse sensor (CMP) / coolant temperature sensor (ECT) / intake air temperature sensor (IAT) is faulty.

Diesel models

Startup is incorrect. Proceed as follows:
- Engage the parking brake, depress the clutch pedal, on models with AT, move the selector lever to the “P” or “N” position. Turn the ignition key to position 2 and wait for the preheat indicator lamp to turn off. As soon as the lamp goes out, start the engine without depressing the gas pedal.

This also applies to starting an already warm engine for more cold weather, - do not press the gas pedal;
If irregular flashes occur first, continue cranking the engine with the starter until its speed stabilizes (but no more than 30 seconds continuously);
If starting fails, try again after half a minute, proceeding in the manner described above.

Blown fuse for electric fuel pre-pump or pre-heating system.

The engine is not warmed up: check the correct operation of the preheater.

There is no voltage at the solenoid shut-off valve. Connect a voltmeter or a tester on the LED to the switch - when the ignition is turned on, the LED should light up, otherwise it is necessary to find and eliminate a break in the wiring.

Defective solenoid shutoff valve (FCV). Check the reliability of the fastening of the electromagnetic switch, evaluate the condition of the contacts. Turn the ignition on and off, the switch should click.

There is damage in the fuel supply lines, or air has entered the latter:

Fuel lines are mechanically damaged, or their patency is impaired, - clean the fuel lines and remove air from them, also remove air locks from the fuel filter;
The fuel filter is clogged, - replace the filter element;
In winter, check the filter and pipelines for signs of ice or wax formation, - drive the car into a heated garage, add gasoline to the system;
The patency of the ventilation path of the fuel tank is broken, or the mesh filter of the fuel intake is clogged - clean the relevant components.

Clogged fuel filter/fuel tank filter

The adjustment of the moment of the beginning of the fuel supply is knocked down.

The high pressure fuel pump (TNVD) is faulty.

Not enough compression pressure.

Excessively thick oil has been filled into the engine.

The starter operates without cranking the engine

Stuck starter gear.

Difficulty starting a cold engine

The battery is discharged, or its charge level is insufficient.
There is wax deposition in the filter fine cleaning fuel (diesel models), - warm up or replace the filter element, fill the car with winter diesel fuel, or add low-octane gasoline to the tank in a ratio of 1/3.
Faulty diesel engine glow plugs.

Difficulty starting a hot engine

Air filter clogged.
The serviceability of the functioning of the components of the power system or electrical equipment is broken.
Fuel does not reach the injectors/nozzles of the injection system.
out of order diesel injection pump engine, or its adjustment is violated.
Insufficient compression pressure in the cylinders.

Starter engagement is too noisy or difficult

Worn or damaged starter gear teeth or flywheel crown.
Starter mounting bolts are missing or loose.

Engine starts but immediately stalls

Faulty engine immobilizer.
The wiring is faulty, or the wires are loose at the coil or generator terminals.
The basic settings of the engine control module (ECM) are violated.
There is damage to the exhaust system/catalytic converter.
Insufficient compression pressure.
The patency of the return fuel path of the diesel engine is broken.
The diesel engine glow plugs are switched off too early.
The fuel advance angle of the diesel engine has gone astray.
Faulty injection pump.
Diesel fuel solenoid valve stuck in "RUN" position.

The stability of the engine at idle is broken

Petrol models

Make sure that the fixing bolts/nuts are securely tightened, check the fact and quality of fastening on your fittings on the inlet pipeline of all vacuum hoses. Listen to the running engine with a stethoscope or a piece of fuel hose. The presence of a hissing sound will reveal the source of the “leakage” of the vacuum, - you can use a solution of soapy water to check just as effectively.
The tightness of the landing of the inlet pipeline on the cylinder head is broken.
The lining of a head of cylinders is punched, - make measurement of a compression pressure in cylinders of the engine (the Engine see the Head).
Worn timing drive components.
The engine is overheated.
The patency of the valve of the crankcase ventilation system is broken.
There are leaks at the exhaust gas system (EGR) valve.
There is a malfunction of the functioning of the components of the power system or electrical equipment.
Air filter blocked.
The fuel pump is not supplying enough fuel to the injection system injectors.

Diesel models

The quality of the connections of the fuel hoses on the injection pump and the fuel filter is broken.
The fastening of the injection pump has loosened.
The connections of the return pipeline and the fuel supply pipeline are reversed.
There is damage in the fuel lines.
The patency of the return fuel path is broken.
Slow idle speed control is out of order.
Air got into the power system - “pump” the system.
The adjustment of the start of fuel supply is knocked down.
The injectors are faulty, - when the union nut of the fuel line of the faulty injector is loosened, the engine speed will not drop.
The high pressure fuel pump (TNVD) is faulty. Install a new or known-good injection pump for testing.

Cylinder misfiring at idle

Worn or dirty spark plugs or incorrect spark plug gap.
Faulty electrical wiring.
Low-quality fuel is filled, or the fuel filter is blocked.
There is a loss of vacuum in the intake manifold or through the hose connections.
Insufficient or unevenly distributed compression pressure in the cylinders.
There are malfunctions in the engine control system.

There are misfires in the operation of the engine cylinders at exceeding idle speeds / when the vehicle is moving in gear

The fuel filter is clogged, or the patency of the fuel path is impaired.
Faulty or dirty spark plugs or incorrectly set spark plug gap (petrol engines).
Faulty components of the power system or electrical equipment.
There is a defect in the electrical wiring.
Insufficient or unevenly distributed compression pressure between the cylinders.
Faulty ignition system.
There is vacuum loss at the throttle body, intake manifold, or through the vacuum hoses.
Worn valve train.
The valve timing is out of order.
The patency of the inlet pipeline is broken.
The adjustment of the start of the diesel engine fuel supply is knocked down.
The car is filled with diesel fuel of poor quality.

The engine spontaneously stalls

Idle speed control broken.
The patency of the fuel filter is broken, or moisture or dirt has got into the power system.
There is a failure of the components / information sensors of the power system.
Components of systems of decrease in toxicity of the fulfilled gases are faulty.
Spark plugs are faulty or dirty or the candle gap is incorrectly exposed (see the Head Routine leaving and service). If equipped, also check the condition of the BB wiring.
There is vacuum loss at the throttle body or through the vacuum hoses.

The engine does not develop full power

There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment.
The air cleaner is clogged or the intake air path is otherwise obstructed.
Faulty spark plugs or incorrectly set spark plug gap (petrol engines).
Faulty ignition coil (gasoline engines).
The level of ATF has fallen (see the Head Routine care and maintenance).
Transmission slips.
Blocked fuel filter and/or dirt/moisture in the fuel system.
Wrong grade of fuel filled.
Damaged turbocharger control valve (if equipped).
Insufficient compression pressure, or its uniform distribution between the cylinders is disturbed.
Valves are stuck or valve springs are weak.
Broken cylinder head gasket.
Clutch slips (models with manual transmission).
The engine is overheated.
There are vacuum losses.
Camshaft lobes worn out.
The installation of the gas distribution phases is violated.
There are leaks in the fuel pump.
The patency of the exhaust gas system is broken.

Optional for diesel engine

Faulty EGR valve.
Clogged fuel filter or injection pump/injector.
Clogged fuel tank cap valve (if equipped).
The patency of the fuel path in the area between the high-pressure fuel pump and the fuel tank is broken.
The patency of the return fuel line is broken.
The uniformity of fuel supply to the cylinders is disturbed - adjust on a warm engine.
Incorrectly set the moment of the beginning of the injection of fuel injection pump.
The adjustment of the maximum speed of the crankshaft is violated.

There are pops in the intake system or shots in the exhaust system

There is a defect in the secondary circuit of the ignition system of a gasoline engine (destruction of spark plug insulators or damage to explosive wiring).
The fuel injection system needs to be adjusted, or its components are excessively worn.
There is vacuum loss at the throttle body, intake manifold, or through the vacuum hoses.
Seizes valves.
The setting of the ignition advance angle is violated, for example, as a result of incorrect connection of the explosive wiring.
Faulty EGR valve.
A lean air-fuel mixture enters the cylinders.

Detonation sounds occur when accelerating or going uphill

Filled with low quality fuel.
The functioning of the components of the power system or electrical equipment is broken.
Wrong type of spark plugs installed (petrol engines).
The basic settings of the ECM are violated.
Faulty knock sensor.
There are vacuum losses.

Excessively high idle speed.
There is a malfunction in the electrical system, control components, or fuel shut-off valve (diesel models).
The EVAP canister purge valve has malfunctioned.
Excessive engine operating temperature. Possible causes of this problem could be a low coolant level, a failed thermostat, a blocked radiator, or a faulty water pump.

Excessively smoky diesel engine exhaust

Black smoke:
- The air cleaner is dirty, - wash and refill with fresh oil or replace the filter element;
- Wrong fuel used, - flush the tank and change the fuel;
- The moment of the start of the injection pump supply is incorrectly set, or the pump itself is faulty;
- The injector valve seal is broken. Check the operation of the injectors on the stand, if necessary, disassemble and lap the valve, or replace the injector assembly.
- Faulty EGR valve.
Blue smoke:
- Oil enters the combustion chamber (s) due to wear of the piston rings, its presence in the air cleaner, wear of the seals in the turbocharger covers, the formation of leaks in the gasket between the crankcase and the turbocharger - repair the engine, replace the seals, tighten the turbocharger mounting bolts or replace the gasket;
- The fuel supply to one of the injectors is disrupted - check by heating the exhaust pipes of the manifold;
- The quality of fuel atomization by the injector is impaired due to a valve malfunction or an atomizer breakage - grind the valve or replace the injector.
White or brown smoke:
- Insufficient coolant temperature, - check the thermostat;
- The functioning of the nozzles is broken due to wear or breakage of the atomizer - replace the atomizer.

Engine electrical equipment

There is a decrease in capacity or insufficient battery charging

Worn or damaged drive belt alternator, or the adjustment of its tension is broken.
The electrolyte level is insufficient, or the battery is badly discharged.
The battery terminals are corroded, or the wire lugs are loose on them.
The alternator does not provide the required charging current.
The charging circuit wiring is broken or otherwise damaged, or the wires are loose at the terminals.
Occurs short circuit electrical wiring, creating a constant leakage to the "mass" of the current generated by the battery.
There is an internal defect in the battery.

Charge indicator lamp does not go out after starting the engine

Loose/worn alternator drive belt.
The fastening of the contact terminals of the electrical wiring of the generator has loosened.
There is a short circuit in the control lamp power circuit.
Damaged stator or alternator diode assembly.
Faulty voltage regulator. Disconnect the wire (D+) from reverse side generator and turn on the ignition - if the control lamp does not light up, check the condition of the voltage regulator.
Worn carbon brushes.
Damaged wire between generator and voltage regulator.

The charge control lamp does not light up when the key is turned to the "ON" position

The control lamp on the instrument panel has burned out or otherwise failed.
Generator defective.
There is a defect in the printed circuit board or wiring inside the instrument cluster unit, or the lamp socket is damaged.
The corresponding fuse, if any, has been blown out.
There is a short circuit in the electrical wiring in the generator.
Generator rectifier faulty.

The charge control lamp does not go out when the key is turned to position 0

Broken diodes.

Launch system

If the starter does not turn, first of all, you should make sure that the necessary voltage (minimum 10 V) is present at terminal No. 50 of the traction relay. If the test results are negative, evaluate the condition of the wiring.
To verify that the starter engages properly at full battery voltage, do the following:
- Without gearing, turn the key to the "ON" position;
- Bridge terminals 30 and 50 of the starter with a wire with a cross section of at least 4 mm 2.

Starter does not turn

Low battery.
Bridge terminals 30 and 50 of the starter: if the starter rotates, check the wire 50 connected to the lock for an open, also evaluate the condition of the starter switch.
The ground wire is broken, or the quality of its terminal connection is broken, the battery is discharged.
There is a weakening of the current strength due to a violation of the quality or oxidation of the contact connections.
There is no voltage at terminal 50 of the traction relay as a result of a broken electrical wiring or damage to the starter switch.
Faulty starter relay or motor.
Faulty start enable switch (AT) / starter circuit opening (MCP).

The starter rotates slowly and does not turn the crankshaft

Low battery.
The engine is filled with excessively thick (for current weather conditions) oil.
Loose or oxidized connectors of the electrical wiring of the connectors.
The carbon brushes are loose on the commutator, wedged in the guides, worn, broken, oily or dirty.
Not enough distance between brushes and commutator.
Collector c is furrowed, burnt or oily.
No voltage at terminal 50 (minimum 8 V).
Broken bearing.
Faulty traction relay.
There is an internal mechanical damage to the starter.
The starter overrunning clutch is slipping, or the flywheel ring gear is damaged.

The starter "grabs", but provides only a jerky cranking of the engine

Defective gear drive.
The gear is dirty.
Flywheel ring gear damaged.

Starter gear does not disengage from flywheel ring gear/ drive disk

Dirty or damaged gear drive components.
Faulty traction relay.
The starter drive thrust spring has weakened.

The starter continues to work after the ignition key is released

The traction relay is jammed - immediately turn off the ignition and replace the traction relay.
The contact group of the ignition switch is faulty.
Loose starter mounting hardware.
Worn starter drive assembly components.
Weak or broken starter drive assembly return spring.

The functioning of the starter is accompanied by a high-frequency squeal

The screech appears during cranking and disappears after the ignition is carried out.

Excessive clearance between starter gear and flywheel ring gear.

The screech appears after the engine is started.

Insufficient clearance between starter gear and flywheel ring gear.

Supply system

Excessive fuel consumption

All models

Air cleaner element dirty or blocked.
Insufficient tire pressure or wrong size tires fitted.
The engine has mechanical damage. Check the compression, if necessary, make the appropriate reconditioning.
Excessively high idling speed / maximum speed during operation.

Petrol models

Faulty components of the power system, electrical equipment or electronic control.
There are leaks in the intake air path.
There is damage to the exhaust system/catalytic converter.

diesel engine

Clogged fuel return line. Blow out the pipeline with air in the direction from the injection pump to the fuel tank.
The tightness of the fuel system is broken. Visually check all fuel lines (supply, return, pressure), fuel filter and injection pump. Check the system for leaks.

There are fuel leaks and/or a smell of gasoline

There are leaks in the fuel/vent lines.
The fuel tank is overfilled - refuel only until the gun automatically switches off.
There are leaks / evaporation from the lines of power systems and reduce the toxicity of exhaust gases.

Engine won't start

Petrol models

When the starter is turned on, the electric fuel pump is not activated (there is no characteristic sound). Tap the pump body lightly to release the stuck element. Check the serviceability of the power supply to the pump (evaluate the safety of the protective fuse and the reliability of the fastening of the contact terminals of the corresponding electrical wiring).
Faulty fuel pump relay.
The patency of the fuel lines is broken.
Fuel filter clogged.
Vacuum hoses are damaged, or there is a violation of the tightness of their fit.
The fuel tank vent is clogged, the filter in the tank is clogged.
The preheater does not work.
Diesel engine fuel cut-off valve damaged.

Diesel models

Glow plugs are not working. Check.
Fuel cut off valve does not open. Check the shut-off valve, engine control units and anti-theft alarms.
There is a malfunction in the fuel supply system:
- The patency of the fuel lines is broken;
- Clogged fuel filter;
- Ice/wax has accumulated in the fuel filter or lines (in winter);
- The fuel tank ventilation path is clogged, or the filter in the tank is blocked.
The fuel injection timing is off.
Injector(s) damaged.
Injection pump is faulty - try installing a new or known-good pump.

Cold engine starts badly, works unstably

The content of CO does not meet the regulatory requirements - make an appropriate measurement, check the idle speed.
Faulty coolant temperature (ECT) or intake air (IAT) sensor.
The fuel pressure does not match the required value.
The tightness of the intake air duct is broken.

A warm engine does not start well, runs erratically

Damaged fuel pump check valve.
There are leaks in the fuel line.
Excessive fuel pressure in the fuel system.
Faulty evaporative emission control (EVAP) system.
The patency of the return fuel line to the tank is broken.
Stuck injector valves. Check injectors, replace if necessary. Check the power supply to the injectors, - disconnect the injector connector, connect the diode probe lamp to the wire and turn on the starter, - the lamp should start flashing.
No signal from CKP ignition sensor or coolant temperature sensor. Check the condition of the relevant electrical wiring, interrogate the memory of the on-board self-diagnosis (OBD) system.
Damaged fuel pressure regulator - check residual pressure.
Damaged throttle position sensor (TPS).
No power to the engine electronic control module (ECM).

Engine runs intermittently

There is a sporadic violation of the quality of the contact connections in the wiring of the fuel pump. Check the wiring of the fuel pump, air flow meter and fuel pump relay. Check the fuse and terminals of the fuel pump relay. Clean contacts, replace if necessary.
The vehicle is filled with low-quality fuel, vapor locks form in the fuel lines.
Insufficient fuel supply.
Fuel filter defective.
Fuel pump defective.
Faulty injectors.
The lambda probe is faulty, or its heating does not function.
Faulty throttle position sensor (TPS).
Damaged exhaust manifold or exhaust pipe.
Serviceability of functioning of system of catching of fuel evaporations (EVAP) is broken.
The fastening of the fuel hoses to the injection pump and the fuel filter has loosened (diesel models).
When connecting, the connection points of the supply and return pipelines of the injection pump were mixed up.
Stuck injector valves. Check injectors, replace if necessary. Check the power supply to the injectors, - disconnect the injector connector, connect the diode probe lamp to the wire and turn on the starter, - the lamp should start flashing.
No signal from CKP ignition sensor or coolant temperature sensor. Check the condition of the relevant electrical wiring, interrogate the memory of the on-board self-diagnosis (OBD) system.
The tightness of the intake air duct is broken.
The tightness of the vacuum lines is broken.
Pressure regulator damaged - check residual pressure.
No power to the engine electronic control module (ECM).

Engine runs erratically in transients and idle

The tightness of the intake air duct is broken. Without turning off the idling engine, moisten the joints of the elements of the tract with gasoline - if the speed stabilizes for a short time, eliminate leaks.
The idle speed setting is violated.
Faulty or incorrectly adjusted full load sensor. Check throttle position sensor (TPS).

Hot engine won't start

The adjustment of the CO content in the exhaust gases is violated. Check CO content and idle speed setting.
Excessive pressure in the fuel system - check the fuel pressure, replace the regulator if necessary.
The patency of the return pipeline is broken in the area between the pressure regulator and the fuel tank.
Faulty engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor.
The tightness of the fuel path is broken.
The tightness of the intake air duct is broken.

The diesel engine is unstable at idle and at the time of starting the car from a place

The fastening of the fuel hoses to the injection pump and the fuel filter has loosened.
The points of connection to the injection pump of the supply and return fuel lines are mixed up.

Engine continues to run after key is turned to position 0

The tightness of the injectors is broken.
The fuel cut-off valve does not work (diesel models).

Lubrication system

The indicator lamp does not turn on when the key is turned to the "ON" position

Defective oil pressure sensor. Turn on the ignition, disconnect the wire from the sensor and short it to ground - if the lamp lights up, replace the sensor.
The sensor is not supplied with power - check the condition of the contact connections of the corresponding electrical wiring.
The control lamp is faulty.
Faulty instrument cluster.

The control lamp does not go out after starting the engine

The oil is overheated - if the lamp goes out after depressing the gas pedal, do not worry.

The control lamp does not go out after depressing the gas pedal when running engine or triggered while driving

The oil level has dropped.
There is a short circuit in the wiring of the oil level sensor.
Sensor defective.

Oil pressure not enough at all speeds

The oil level has dropped.
Clogged oil pickup strainer in sump.
Worn oil pump.
Damaged crankshaft bearings.

Oil pressure not enough at low rpm

Oil pump pressure relief valve stuck open due to contamination.

Oil pressure excessive above 2000 rpm

Reducing valve stuck in closed position.

Cooling system

Overheat

The water pump drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension adjustment is broken.
The internal channels of the cooling system path (including the radiator) are blocked, or as a result of clogging, the air flow through the heat exchanger of the radiator / A/C condenser is impaired.
Thermostat stuck closed.
Damaged cooling fan blades.
Faulty clutch/cooling fan motor.
Faulty coolant temperature gauge.
Water pump defective.
The radiator/expansion tank cap does not hold pressure - check the cap under pressure.

hypothermia

The thermostat is stuck open.
Inaccurate temperature readings.

External coolant leaks

The hoses of the cooling path are damaged or destroyed as a result of aging of the material, or their fastening on the fittings has loosened.
Damaged water pump seals - coolant will seep through the control hole in the pump housing.
There are leaks from the internal passages of the heat exchanger/radiator side tank(s).
There are leaks through the engine drain plug or the squeeze plugs of the water galleries.

Internal coolant leaks

There are leaks through the cylinder head gasket - perform a pressure test of the cooling system.
There are cracks in the cylinder walls or in the head casting.

Loss of coolant occurs

Coolant circulation interrupted

The water pump is not functioning properly. Pinch the upper radiator hose while the engine is idling - if you feel a push of fluid inside it when you release the hose, the pump is functioning properly.
The patency of the cooling system is broken. Merge a cooling liquid (the Routine leaving and service see the Head), wash out system and fill it with fresh mix. If necessary, remove the radiator and backflush it.
The water pump drive belt is worn or damaged or its tension adjustment is broken.
Stuck thermostat.

Heating and air conditioning systems

The card of diagnostics of failures of the K/V system is given in the Section Diagnostics of malfunctions, check of components of the K/V system of the Head of the System of cooling, heating, ventilation and air conditioning.

Heater fan not working

Fan motor fuse blown.
Faulty fan switch - make sure the power supply to the resistor assembly is good, remove and check the fan switch.
Drive motor defective. Check the power supply to the fan motor terminals with the ignition on and the fan switch closed, if voltage is present, replace the electric motor.

The heater fan does not function in one of the speed modes

Faulty resistor assembly.

The heater is not switched off by the regulator

Switch defective.
Mixing damper drive damaged.

The heater does not develop the required power

The coolant level has dropped.
The cable drive of the control dampers is faulty.
The thermostat is stuck in the closed position, - check the readings of the engine temperature meter.
The permeability of the coolant through the heater heat exchanger is impaired.
The heater fan is malfunctioning.
Oiled heater heat exchanger plates.

The operation of the fan is accompanied by an increased background noise

Foreign objects (dirt, leaves) have entered the impeller/air path.
The impeller balance is broken, the bearing is damaged.

A/C compressor does not function

There is an open in the wiring circuit of the compressor clutch, or the clutch itself is faulty.
The quality of the grounding of the compressor clutch is broken.
Loose fan drive belt tension.
The thermostatic sensor-switch is faulty, or its adjustment is broken.
Faulty outdoor temperature switch.

The operation of the compressor leads to an increase in the level of vibrations

Loose mounting bolts.
Compressor/idler clutch bearing failed.
The drive belt tension is out of adjustment.
The compressor clutch is in contact with the bodywork.
Excessive internal pressure in the refrigeration path.
Compressor oil level dropped.
Reed valve damaged.
Compressor damaged.

A/C system does not provide proper air cooling efficiency

The expansion valve is malfunctioning.
Heater control valve stuck open.
Not enough pressure in the refrigeration circuit.
The condenser/evaporator heat exchanger is blocked.
Faulty drive components for controlling the functioning of heating / air conditioning systems.
Air supply defective.
The dampers for selecting the operating modes of the heating / air conditioning systems are jammed.
The outdoor temperature exceeds the capacity of the A/C system.

Clutch

The serviceability of the clutch disengagement is broken (when the pedal is depressed to the floor, it is difficult to engage / disengage the reverse gear)

Adjustment broken freewheel clutch pedals.
Oil has entered the clutch disc.
"Dipped" diaphragm spring.
There are leaks hydraulic fluid from the clutch master or slave cylinder.
Air has entered the hydraulic path of the clutch drive (there is softness of the pedal stroke).
The sealing cuff of the piston of the main or slave cylinder is damaged.
There is a lack of lubrication in the guide bearing.

Clutch slips (engine speed increases without increasing vehicle speed)

Wheels slip on slippery surfaces.
Clutch disc overheated - park the car and let the disc cool down.
The friction linings of the driven disk are contaminated with oil seeping through the crankshaft rear oil seal.
The new driven disk did not run in (for the final running in of a new disk, it is necessary to make at least 30 - 40 starts).
Weak diaphragm spring.
There was a "sticking" of the piston in the clutch master cylinder as a result of the ingress of foreign particles.
Stuck clutch release mechanism.
Clutch hydraulic lines damaged.

Vibration occurs when the clutch is engaged

Contaminated with oil, deformed, burned out, or polished to a shine friction linings of the driven disk / flywheel working surface.
Friction lining fastening rivets loosened.
Worn suspension mounts power unit or weakened their fastening.
Worn splines input shaft gearboxes or driven disk hubs.
Deformed clutch/flywheel assembly.
There is a fatigue deformation of the diaphragm spring.
Stuck pilot bearing in crankshaft journal.

When depressing or releasing the clutch pedal, there are extraneous noises

Clutch pedal misadjusted.
The release bearing is stuck on the transmission shaft.
Worn or damaged pilot bearing.
Cracked clutch disc.
There is a fatigue deformation of the torsion springs of the clutch disc.
Worn clutch basket assembly components.
Pressure plate diaphragm spring broken.
Worn or dry clutch pedal axle bushings.
Insufficient idle speed of the engine.

Clutch pedal does not return to original position after releasing

The functioning of the main or slave cylinder of the clutch is broken.
Damaged or jammed clutch release drive components.
Air has entered the hydraulic circuit.

Clutch pedal requires too much force to depress

Stuck piston in master or slave cylinder.
Faulty clutch basket assembly.
Wrong size master or slave cylinder installed.

Manual gearbox

Gearbox in neutral makes noise when engine is running

The input shaft bearings are worn out (noises appear when the clutch pedal is released and disappear when it is squeezed out).
Gearbox drive shaft bearing worn.
Worn clutch release bearing (noises appear when the clutch pedal is depressed and may decrease when it is released).
The source of the noise may be variations in engine torque - adjusting the idle speed may correct the situation.

Noise occurs in all gears

Any of the above reasons, plus:

Worn or damaged transmission output shaft or its bearings.

Noises occur in any particular gear

Worn, chipped, or otherwise damaged transmission gear teeth.
Synchronizers worn or damaged.

Noises occur when shifting gears

Clutch malfunction.
Faulty synchronizer assembly.

The box "jumps" from the selected gear

Hardened gear lever collar.
Shift drive components jammed.
Worn gearshift mechanism.
The bolts securing the gearbox to the engine have loosened.
Primary gear bearing retainer broken or loose.
There is dirt between the clutch lever and the crankcase.
Worn or damaged control balls, grooves in the spherical bearings of the shift fork rods, or control springs.
The bearings of the driven or intermediate shaft are worn out.
Worn power unit suspension mounts.
Gear end play is excessive.
Synchronizers worn out.

Transmission oil leaks

An excessive amount of gear oil is poured into the box.
Damaged output shaft seal or speedometer seal.

Difficulty shifting gears

Faulty clutch.
Worn or damaged gearshift drive components.
The transmission oil level has dropped.
The transmission oil needs to be changed.
Impact rod worn or damaged.
Transmission gears jammed.
Synchronizer blocks worn out.

There is a blocking of the box on any of the gears

There is wear or a loose fit of the drive rod.

Automatic transmission (AT)

Due to the complexity of the design of the AT, it is advisable to diagnose its malfunctions and repair components in a car service workshop or a KIA representative office.

General problems associated with the functioning of the switching mechanism

Among the failures associated with a violation of the adjustment of the switching actuator include the following:
- The engine can be started in transmission positions other than “P” (Park) and “N” (Neutral);
- The transmission position indicator reading is different from the actual gear selected;
- The vehicle is moving with the transmission in position “P” or “N”;
- Transfers are switched with difficulty, or arbitrarily.

The transmission slips, shifts with difficulty, makes extraneous noises or does not provide movement of the car when installed in one of the forward or reverse gears

There are many possible causes of these problems, however, only one of them falls under the competence of an amateur mechanic - the wrong ATF level.
Before driving the car to a car service workshop, check the level and condition of the transmission fluid. If necessary, make the appropriate adjustment, or change the ATF along with the filter - if the corrections made did not lead to a correction of the situation, contact the car service specialists for help.

Transmission fluid leaks

ATF is dark red in color. Traces of its leaks should not be confused with traces of impellent oil, which can be carried to the transmission crankcase by the oncoming air flow.
To identify and localize the source of the leak, first remove all traces of dirt and grease from the AT boat. Use a suitable degreaser and/or steam clean. Then take a short drive to low speed(so that traces of the leak are not carried away by the oncoming flow far from its source). Stop, jack up the vehicle, and visually check for leaks. Most often these are:
- Transmission oil pan, - tighten the fixing bolts and/or replace the oil pan gasket;
- Probe guide tube ATF level, - replace the rubber seal at the point where the tube enters the transmission housing;
- Drain/fill plug, - tighten appropriate plug/change sealing washer.
- ATF lines, - tighten fittings/replace defective tubes;
- Ventilation tube - transmission is overfilled and / or moisture has entered it.

ATF is brown and/or smells like burning

Insufficient transmission fluid level.

Kickdown mode does not turn on when fully depressing the pedal

Dropped ATF level.
Faulty engine management system.
Faulty sensor-switch for activation of the kickdown mode, or its wiring is damaged.

The engine does not start at any position of the selector lever, or starts in positions other than "P" and "N"

The adjustment of the sensor-switch of permission to start is violated.
The adjustment of the shift drive is broken.

The transmission slips, gear shifting is accompanied by jerks or increased background noise. The car does not move when you turn on the "D" or "R" modes

Dropped ATF level.
The transmission position sensor is faulty or its wiring is damaged.
The correct functioning of the engine management system is broken.

Transfer case

Extraneous noise in any position of the shift lever

Worn or damaged input shaft bearings.
Worn or damaged rear output shaft bearings.
Worn or under-inflated tires, or incorrectly sized wheels fitted.

Difficulty switching transfer case modes

The level of lubricant in the transfer case has dropped.
Worn or damaged shift fork.
Worn, bent or damaged shift rods.
Worn, bent or damaged shafts.

4WD mode won't turn on

Switch rod bent or damaged.
The lamp of the corresponding indicator light is burnt out (front-wheel drive is connected, but the lamp does not work), - replace the lamp.
A circuit break has occurred.
There has been a shift or damage to the transfer case shift lever - make the appropriate adjustment, or replace the lever.

While driving, spontaneous disengagement of the front drive occurs

Worn shift mechanism.
Worn or damaged transfer case gears.
Worn or damaged hub freewheels.

Excessive tread wear

Four-wheel drive is used when driving on dry hard surfaces.

There are oil leaks through the output shaft seals or through the breather

IN transfer case overfilled with oil.
Ventilation lines obstructed.

While driving, the front-wheel drive spontaneously engages.

There are vacuum losses in the vacuum path of the freewheel drive.

extraneous noise

Ordinary road noise - can not be adjusted.
Tire noise - check the condition of the treads and tire inflation pressure.
Worn or damaged wheel bearings or loose torque.

vibrations

Check the condition of the wheel bearings by alternately jacking the appropriate corner of the car and rotating the wheel manually. Listen for sounds coming from the bearing. Remove the bearings and check their condition.

Oil leaks

Damaged differential seals.

When slowing down while driving, a howling sound occurs, turning into a rattle and ending with a sharp blow in the area of \u200b\u200bthe front axle

Spontaneous switching on of the hub clutches as a result of a violation of the tightness of the vacuum path of their activation - most likely, the vacuum valve-switch located near the receiver in the left back corner engine compartment.

Brake system

Increased brake pedal travel

The working circuit of the brake path is damaged - check the system for leaks.

Foot brake pedal springs and falls

Air got into the brake path - bleed the system.
The liquid level in the GTZ tank has dropped, - make the appropriate adjustment, pump the system.
Brake fluid boils in the hydraulic circuit. It appears mainly when the brakes are heavily loaded. Replace brake fluid, bleed the system. Remember to release the parking brake before driving off.

Decreased braking efficiency, pedal fails

The tightness of the hydraulic path is broken.
Cuffs in the main or working brake cylinders are damaged.

Desired braking performance not achieved despite significant pedal pressure

The friction linings of the brake pads are oiled.
Incorrect or hardened pads installed.
Brake booster defective.
Worn brake pads.

When braking, directional stability is violated (the car pulls to one side)

The air pressure in the tires is not correct.
Protectors unevenly worn.
Oiled brake pads.
Different brake pads/tires are installed on the same axle.
Excessively or unevenly worn brake pads.
Wheel cylinders/caliper shafts dirty.

Spontaneous braking occurs / brakes overheat

The compensation hole in the main brake cylinder is clogged.
Insufficient clearance between drive rod and GTZ piston.

Vibrations occur when braking (brake judder)

The brake disc is corroded in places.

Brake pads don't come off brake disc, the wheel is difficult to turn by hand

The caliper cylinders are damaged by corrosion.

There is uneven pad wear.

Wrong pads installed.
Calipers are damaged by corrosion.
The piston is difficult to move.
The tightness of the hydraulic path of the brake system is broken.

Wedge-shaped brake pad wear

Calipers are damaged by corrosion.
Piston malfunction.

There is a creak when braking

Increased atmospheric humidity. If the creak occurs after long-term parking at high humidity and then disappears, no need to worry.
Wrong pads installed.
The parallelism of the caliper landing relative to the brake disc is violated.
The caliper shaft is dirty.
Pad springs bent.
Stretched compression springs.

During braking, there is a distinct pulsation of the brake pedal

A sign of normal ABS operation (informative pedal).
The value of the runout of the brake disc exceeds the limit value.
The parallelism of the caliper landing relative to the brake disc is violated.

ABS warning light comes on while driving

Insufficient on-board supply voltage (below 10 V). Check if the generator control lamp goes out after starting the engine. If everything is in order, check the condition and tension of the alternator drive belt.
Occurs ABS malfunction, - check the condition and reliability of fixing the terminal connection of the return pump ground (in the hydraulic modulator).

Suspension and steering

Vehicle pulls to one side when moving

Tires unevenly inflated.
Tires are defective.
The front brakes are stuck.

There are jerks, jerks or vibrations

The wheels are out of balance or the discs are out of shape.
Worn wheel bearings, loose torque or misadjustment.
Worn or damaged shock absorbers or other suspension components.

There is excessive swaying/bumping of the nose when cornering or braking

Defective shock absorbers.
Damaged suspension components.

Steering wheel too tight

The fluid level in the reservoir of the power steering system has dropped excessively.
Tires incorrectly inflated.
Insufficiently lubricated steering gear joints.
The adjustment of the angles of installation of the front wheels is broken.
The hydraulic booster does not develop the required power.

There is excessive steering play

Loose torque on front wheel bearings.
Suspension or steering components are excessively worn.

The power steering system does not develop due effort

The power steering pump drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension adjustment is broken.
The hydraulic fluid level has dropped too low.
The patency of the lines of the working path of the power steering is violated.
IN hydraulic system air got in, - "pump" the system.

There is excessive tread wear (not localized)

Tires incorrectly inflated.
Wheel balance out of alignment.
Damaged wheel rims.
Suspension or steering components are excessively worn.

Excessive tread wear on outer edge

Tires incorrectly inflated.
Too sharp turns.
The adjustment of the angles of installation of the front wheels is violated (excessive convergence).
Bent or twisted suspension arm.

Excessive tread wear on the inside edge

Tires incorrectly inflated.
Violated adjustment of the angles of installation of the front wheels (divergence).
Steering components damaged or loose.

There is localized tread wear

Wheel balance out of alignment.
Damaged or bent discs.
Tires are defective.

Windscreen wipers

slippage

Rubber working elements are dirty.
The edges of the brushes are frayed, the rubber working elements are worn or torn.

Remaining water in the area of action of the cleaners is immediately collected in drops

The windshield is dirty with lacquer polish or oil.

The brush provides normal glass cleaning only when moving in one direction

The rubber working element has one-sided wear.
The wiper arm is twisted, the blade does not fit snugly on the glass.

The brush provides normal glass cleaning throughout working surface

The reliability of fixing the working element in the brush frame is broken.
The brush does not adhere to the glass evenly.
The force of pressing the brush with the lever is not enough - lightly lubricate the hinges of the wiper arms and springs, or replace the corresponding lever.

Tire defects

Bilateral edge wear of the working surface of the tread along the entire perimeter of the tire

Insufficient tire inflation pressure.

Wear of the central part of the tread around the entire perimeter of the tire

Excessive tire inflation pressure.

Uneven tread wear

Violated static and dynamic balancing wheels, possibly due to excessive lateral runout of the disc, or play in the bearing joints.

Uneven wear of the central part of the tread

Static and dynamic balance of the wheel is disturbed, possibly due to excessive vertical runout.

Local wear of the central part of the tread

The result of hard braking.

Sawtooth tread wear, often coupled with an invisible tear in the fabric base of the tire

Result of overloading the car. Check the condition of the inner walls of the tires.

Flaking on the lateral edges of the tread

Wheel alignment out of alignment.
Tires worn out.
Defective shock absorbers/torsion springs/strut assemblies.

Burr formation on one side of the front wheel tread

Wheel alignment out of alignment.
Tires worn out.
The result of frequent movement on wavy surfaces.
The result of a violation of the speed limit when making turns.

Cord breaks (at the initial stage, appearing only on the inside of the tire)

The result of tire impacts on sharp stones, rails, etc.

One-sided wear of the working surface of the tread

Camber adjustment broken.
It has an ABS malfunction, - check the condition and reliability of fixing the terminal connection of the return pump ground (in the hydraulic modulator).

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All wheel drive not working!

Malfunction of the PP engagement clutch

Gears on a manual transmission do not turn on / it is difficult to turn on, or extraneous noise

The car does not drive, a strong rattle in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe right wheel, a malfunction of the intermediate shaft

The engine does not develop more than 3000 rpm, the “CHECK” lamp is on or flashing

The car does not drive, a strong rattle in the area of \u200b\u200bthe right wheel, a malfunction of the intermediate shaft