Materials and tools:
- Soldering Station
- wire solder 60/40 1mm
- solder clamp
- wires 10 AWG (about a meter)
- connector "bullet" 4mm ("father" - 6pcs, "mother" - 4pcs)
- stripper
- heat shrink tube 5mm-15cm, 15mm-8cm (red and black colors)
- wire cutters
- thermal gun
- copper ring 15mm - 2pcs
- insulating tape
- pliers/crimping pliers
- multimeter
Wire preparation
As you can see in the photo, I used a wire in black insulation, but you can use 50cm of red and black wires to indicate the polarity of the connection.
The wire is cut into five 10 cm segments, the ends of which are stripped on one side by 4 mm, on the other by 15 mm. Four wires (of the same color) are twisted together with 15mm ends, and then a fifth wire is connected to this twist, but going in the other direction.
A copper ring is put on the twist and crimped brain pliers or crimping pliers.
The resulting cable is checked for breaks using a multimeter, which is set to the "sound" mode, the first probe is applied to a single cable contact, and the second one is applied in turn to each of the four contacts, and in the absence of a circuit, the ring is crimped more strongly or soldered with solder until a connection is obtained between contacts.
Next, the twist is wrapped with electrical tape, and then a piece of 15x40mm heat shrink tube is put on it (red for the positive wire, black for the negative) and “shrinks” with a heat gun for better insulation.
The same operations are performed to obtain the second brain cable .
Soldering the positive cable (red)
The stripped end of a single wire of the cable is twisted and inserted into the "male" connector. Next, it is installed in the solder clamp so that the wire is horizontal and the solder hole in the connector is facing up. On the soldering station exhibited heat, since you need to warm up the connector and wire well so that the solder melts.
The heated tip of the soldering iron is placed into the socket under the solder hole, near the entry point of the 10 AWG wire, everything heats up for some time (do not touch the heated parts), and then, while still holding the soldering iron at the socket, it is fed into the solder hole solder until it flows through the wire. After that, the soldering iron is removed from the soldered parts, and they are given some time to cool.
The whole procedure is repeated for the remaining four wires of the cable and the male connectors.
After that, the soldering quality is checked with a multimeter, five pieces of 5x30mm red heat shrink tubing are cut off and put on the junction of wires and connectors, and then they are seized with a heat gun to insulate the connections.
Soldering the negative cable (black)
For the negative cable, all the same procedures are repeated as for the positive cable, only the female connectors are used, and the heat shrink tube is black.
Note: It is recommended to use 10mm heat shrink tubing to insulate all open parts of the connectors, this will avoid short circuits when connecting / disconnecting batteries to charge them.
Step 9: Toggle and Motor Cables
Materials and tools:
- Soldering Station
- wire solder 60/40 1mm
- solder clamp
- 2 meters black wire 10 AWG
- bullet connector 4mm - 4pcs each
- flat clamp "mother" 6.35mm - 2 pcs
- black heat shrink tube (5mm -3cm, 15mm - 60cm)
- red heat shrink tube (5mm - 20cm, 15mm - 4cm)
- toggle switch
- stripper
- wire cutters
- thermal gun
- insulating tape
- multimeter
Off button cable
The ends of two 50cm black 10 AWG wires are stripped 4mm of insulation and a 6.35mm flat terminal is attached to one end of each wire. Further, a “male” connector is soldered to the free end of one wire, and a “mother” connector is soldered to the other wire. And with the help of a multimeter, the quality is checked brain connections.
On the resulting terminal-wire connections, pieces of a red heat-shrink tube 5x30mm “sit down”, then the wires are connected to the terminals of the toggle switch and again the quality of the contacts and the operability of the toggle switch itself are checked with a multimeter. If the multimeter shows a gap, then it is necessary to check how tight the terminals are, this can be seen directly, and if everything is fine, then the contacts are insulated with electrical tape and a piece of 15x40mm red thermotube. After that, a large piece of black heat shrink tubing 15x400mm is cut off, put on both wires leading to the toggle switch, and “shrinked” with a heat gun to get a neat cable.
Motor cable
One of the wires on this cable can be replaced with a 10 AWG red wire to indicate polarity.
Each end of three 26cm-x 10 AWG wires is stripped 4mm, then a male connector is soldered to one end of each wire, and a female connector to the other.
Next, two pieces of 5x30mm black heat shrink tubing are cut off and the connections of one of the wires (black) are isolated with them. Two pieces of 5x30mm red thermotube are cut off and the connections of the second wire (yellow) are isolated with them. And then two more pieces of 5x40mm red heat shrink tubing are cut off and they “shrink” onto the connections of the third wire (red). And, finally, a piece of 15x200mm black thermal pipe is cut off and put on all three wires, and then “shrinks”, thereby forming a neat motor cable.
Note:
After connecting the motor, it may rotate in the wrong direction, and to fix this, it is enough to swap two wires with red insulation. And you can also immediately mark the “yellow” wire, for example, with yellow electrical tape, and in the future, when connecting the engine, you do not worry about the correctness of this connection.
For isolating all exposed connectors homemade It is recommended to use 10mm heat shrink tubing to avoid short circuit when connecting / disconnecting contacts.
Step 10: Speed Controller, Servo Tester Refinement, and Throttle Switch
Materials and tools:
- speed controller HobbyKing 85A Blue Series Brushless Speed Controller 5A SBEC
- Etronix 3 Mode Servo and ESC Tester
- "finger" throttle switch
- Soldering Station
- wire solder 60/40 1mm
- solder clamp
- "mother"-connector "bullet" 4mm - 5pcs
- black heat shrink tube 5x60mm
- red heat shrink tube 5x60mm
- stripper
- wire cutters
- thermal gun
- insulating tape
Speed controller. Battery connection side
To speed controller contacts crafts that go to the batteries, two 4mm female connectors are soldered using a solder clamp. Next, pieces of 5x30mm red and black heat shrink tubing are cut off and put on the corresponding contacts of the speed controller, and then “shrink” with a heat gun.
Speed controller. Motor connection side
Using a soldering clamp, three female connectors (three black wires) are soldered to the contacts of the speed controller going to the batteries, then one piece of 5x30mm black heat pipe and two pieces of 5x30mm red heat shrink tubing are cut off.
Note:
It is necessary to determine the motor contacts before putting heat shrink tubes on them, and when this is done, the contacts are marked with tubes and “shrink” with a heat gun.
All open places brain connectors should be insulated with a 10mm thermotube to avoid short circuits.
Refinement of the servo tester
When using a motor and a speed controller, it is necessary to adjust the throttle in some way, and often a transceiver used in radio modeling is suitable for this.
In this handicraft there is no plan to use a wireless box, it uses a servo tester connected to a thumb throttle switch.
The handle is removed from the potentiometer shaft and the shell of the servo tester is “opened”, then the potentiometer itself is soldered from the board, and a jumper is soldered between the two terminals in its place (see photo). The board is again placed in a shell and fastened with electrical tape, only 3-pin connectors are left free - one for the throttle, the other for the speed controller (see photo).
Throttle switch
To begin with, the purpose of the wires and the type of switch connector are determined brain crafts.
You need to make sure that the wires are arranged in the following order: black, red and one more of any color (see photo), it can be blue, as in the photo, or white, or something else.
You can solder them directly to the board, or you can use a 3-pin JR connector (see photo) and turn off the throttle switch if necessary.
Step 11: Friction Drive Assembly
Materials and tools:
- brushless motor C6374/08 KV200
- motor support assembly
- nylon bracket
- spring
- spring tension sleeve
- wrench 8mm
- bolt M4x20 with a cylindrical head - 4 pieces
- bolt M5x20 with external thread - 2 pcs
- nut M5 - 2 pcs
- bolt M8x40 with a cylindrical head - 2 pcs
- bolt M4x8 with external thread - 2 pcs
- dry teflon bicycle lubricant
- hex wrenches 2, 2.5, 3 and 6mm (preferably with long round end)
Assembly
Assembly process brain crafts begins with screwing two M5x20 bolts into the nylon bracket so that they do not protrude into the segment cavity, but are flush with it, then M5 nuts are freely screwed onto the bolts. Then, a spring is inserted into the hole on the other side of the bracket with the short end inward (see photo).
Bicycle grease is applied to the rolling axle and it is inserted into the bracket hole from the side with the selected segment. The nylon bracket is lifted slightly over the aluminum caliper so that the long end of the spring rises above the rolling axis, this will allow the end of the spring to be inserted into the 2mm hole of the spring tension bushing, which is put on with the drilled side to the nylon bracket, and then everything is shifted back to the caliper (see photo ).
After that brainspring tensioned by rotating the sleeve ¼-1/2 turn counterclockwise until the corresponding hole in the rolling axis is found, and then the M4 bolts of the tension sleeve are tightened with a 2mm hexagon.
By means of M4x20 bolts with a cylindrical head and four holes in the caliper, the engine is attached to it, taking into account the location of its wires (see photo). It is not necessary, but at this stage it is possible to fasten the second part of the bracket with the help of M8 bolts with a cylindrical head.
Note:
Don't overtighten the spring as this can bend the end of the spring and pull it out of the 2mm hole.
Step 12: Mounting the Clutch to the Bike
Materials and tools:
- clutch assembly
- flat bar (metal ruler or long bar)
- wrench 8mm
- hexagons 2.5 and 6mm
- roulette
Friction mount on the frame
Friction homemade it is applied to the tube under the seat so that in the “inactive” position the engine is located at a distance of 10 mm from the tire and the washers of the M8 bolts are slightly tightened to be able to align the edge of the engine parallel to the wheel axis (see photo). After that, the M8 bolts are evenly tightened more than half a turn so that the clutch does not rotate on the frame tube.
Next, the engine is pulled up with a little effort until it hits the wheel. With the help of a flat bar (metal ruler), which is applied to the rolling axis and the wheel axis, the position of the engine is set so that its center “lies” on the bar (ruler) (see photo).
Having achieved this, the lower adjusting bolt, while the center of the motor shaft should be directly on the line between the axles, or slightly below it. I have found that with a properly set up position, the engine will simply rest on the tire and disengage from the wheel with minimal effort.
Finding a good mindset On the engine, tighten the adjusting bolt nut with an 8mm wrench. It may be easier to do this on the other side of the bike and with the engine pulled out, this little trick will make it easier to "throw" the wrench. (I believe that in the support of the next craft, you will need to mill the corresponding section).
After that, the position of the engine is set to "inactive" mode. To do this, the upper adjusting bolt is tightened until the engine “breaks away” from the tire by 5 mm, having achieved this, the bolt is fixed with a lock nut (see photo).
Note:
After the complete installation of the friction homemade you can mark its position several times by wrapping the bicycle frame with electrical tape on the top and bottom of the bracket, and focus on these marks if you need to remove the friction brainwashing.
Step 13: Connecting the Friction Drive
Materials and tools:
- clamps-screeds
- pliers/nippers
- hex keys
- throttle switch
- on/off toggle switch
- connecting cables
- modified servo tester
- battery bag (Topeak Aero Wedge Pack)
- speed controller (HobbyKing 85A Blue Series Brushless Speed Controller 5A SBEC)
- two rechargeable batteries (Turnigy 5000mAh 5S 20C Lipo Pack)
Connecting cables
On the handlebar of a bicycle convenient location the throttle switch is attached, and the cable coming from it is attached along the frame and under the seat with the help of cable ties (see photo).
A cable is connected to the speed controller that goes from it to the engine, and the speed controller itself is mounted on top of the battery bag, then this brain bag hung on a bicycle (see photo), the cable from the controller is connected to the engine.
The on / off toggle switch is installed under the seat, the cable coming from it is attached to the frame with clamps, then one of its wires is connected to the “red” wire on the “power side” of the speed controller (see photo). The throttle switch cable is connected to the servo tester which is located under the seat, and the speed controller thin cable is connected to reverse side servo tester (see photo).
Next to the two batteries homemade the appropriate cables are connected, and the batteries themselves are placed in the "battery" bag as deep as possible. The "red" positive wire coming from the batteries is connected to the on/off switch, and the "black" negative wire to the corresponding pin on the "power side" of the speed controller.
It remains only to fasten the "battery" bag and craft ready!
Basic throttle calibration with speed controller (first run)
After studying the instructions for the speed controller, the throttle is adjusted, it is necessary to ensure that the throttle switch works correctly.
For the one used in this brainwash speed controller, the first thing to do is to move the throttle switch to the “maximum” position and fix it in it, after that, by applying voltage to the system by pressing the on / off toggle switch, the speed controller will emit several short beeps, then the throttle switch is moved to the “ minimum” and is fixed in it again, before the controller gives another beep, which will mean that the calibration is completed, and after that the whole system is turned off by the on / off toggle switch. That's all there is to it.
Note:
Do not touch the throttle switch when turning on the power while the controller homemade submits sound signals unless the controller is being calibrated.
Step 14: Friction drive in action
It should be remembered that the friction drive in this version is designed only as additional element, and should not be started when not in motion, as this may damage the engine.
I activate this homemade at a speed of at least 22 km / h, while I hold the throttle switch in the middle position, or at the "maximum", but for 3-4 seconds, and then release it.
On this moment I only use two of the four Turnigy 5000mAh 5S 20C Lipo Packs in this build and they last me 19.3km on my round trip.
That's all, I hope brain-useful!
If you choose transport between a car, a motorcycle, a bus or a bicycle, then probably many will choose the latter option. If you think about it, then this is the most convenient and fast way movement. Since a car is a rather expensive thing, and it will take a very long time to get anywhere due to eternal traffic jams, a bus is also not an option - you will have to huddle in a crowd of people, among whom it is very hot and uncomfortable.
The motorcycle obliges to have driver's license and besides, riding it can be dangerous. Therefore, only a bicycle remains, which, if equipped with an engine, will be an ideal vehicle. This vehicle has become very popular in last years. Even a simple old grandfather's bike can be equipped with a motor and move around the city calmly, quickly and without traffic jams. You can choose at your discretion.
Varieties of electric motors
The following types of electric motors can be installed on a bicycle:
- motor wheel;
- Motor in friction action transmission;
- electric motor hanging type.
The most popular manufacturers of electric motors
1. Bafang (8FUN)- an electric motor made in China.
This company produces electric motors in the form of a set with a wheel. This engine is suitable for reliable connection to any frame. Power this manufacturer motors can be different - its range ranges from 250 W to 750 W. In this case, the voltage will also be different - from 24 to 48 V. Of all the electric motors of this manufacturer, the motor is different, the power of which is 750 W 29 A.
The gearbox in it has two gears. The kit includes the drive unit, gas pedals, connecting rods, monitor and brake pedal. total weight the entire electric motor is only about four kilograms. The speed to which the motor can accelerate to the maximum is only 50 km / h. 
2. Bosch.
Companies such as Merida, Scott, Stevens, Cannondale use these engines to build their bikes. The acceleration speed of such an electric motor is not very high - it is only 25 km / h. Its power is approximately 250 watts, and the maximum value can rise to 350 watts.
These motors are also available in a kit that includes:
- A mechanism that signals that the motor needs to be helped by pedals.
- A device that fully charges the battery in three hours
- A computer that is equipped with four modes. This computer allows you to economically use battery consumption by adjusting engine power in the right proportion.
The weight of such an electric motor is only 2.5 kg, which is very convenient when riding, as the bike becomes heavier.
3.Gold Motor. These motors are presented in the form of a wheel. The kit includes a gas pedal, a battery and other components for mounting the engine. The highest voltage level of such an engine is 60V. The engine itself includes a sensor that signals the level of load and temperature. The maximum speed that a bike equipped with this type of engine can reach is 40 km / h. Its weight is relatively small - only three kilograms. You can mount such a motor on almost any bike.
4. YAMAHA electric motor this is very famous name a brand that even produces bicycle engines. Here, the main advantage is considered to be high technical indicators and the quality of the engine. The power of this type of motor can reach 4 hp. Here you no longer have to help the motor with pedals when climbing uphill.
The disadvantages include very high cost of this item. This company has increasingly begun to produce engines for a bicycle of an electronic nature, therefore gasoline types the engine is getting smaller.
Motorcycle kits for bicycles
Wheel motor
This type of engine has become very popular among bike enthusiasts. Its main advantage is the possibility of converting a simple bicycle into an electric bicycle.
It should be noted that when mounting this engine into a bicycle, it is practically invisible, since the motor-wheel design and appearance looks like a simple hub. This engine can be installed either to one of the wheels, or to both wheels at once.
After the installation of the battery and the throttle lever is completed, the bike can be considered ready for use.
The power of this type of motor ranges from 150 watts to 2000 watts. Depending on the power, a motor with a certain voltage is selected - from 24 to 48 V. For each of these options, it is necessary to select the desired battery.
This type of motor is able to pick up speed up to 70 km / h, and at this speed drive about 50-60 km. But when driving uphill, these figures may change.
outboard motor
Such a motor is independent detail, which connects to the bottom of the bike frame. When installing this type of engine, be sure to install a casing that will protect the motor.
While driving, the motor sends power through the chain to the bike's rear sprocket. The engine is powered by a battery, which is also mounted on the bike frame. Thanks to the controller, it is possible to regulate the speed and power of the engine. This controller looks just like the throttle on the steering wheel.
The outboard motor is slightly heavier than the motor listed above, so the “advanced” bike will be slightly heavier. But this disadvantage is compensated by the fact that a bicycle with such a motor can pick up speed up to 120 km / h. Bicycles that can be mounted suspension can be very different.
Friction gear motor
The principle of operation of this type of electric motor is that the torque that is transmitted from the electric motor is sent directly to the bicycle wheel, more precisely to its tire. Such a transfer is considered ineffective and has many disadvantages, such as:
- Low level of efficiency;
- Wheels serve a very short period;
- Bicycle tire pressure should be checked periodically;
- In rainy weather, the torque transmission roller slips.
The advantage of this type of electric motor is the ability to mount it on a bicycle without disassembling it.
Suspension electric motor for Kometa bicycle
Such a set is usually installed on the rear trunk. The principle of operation of such a motorcycle kit is to transmit torque to the rear sprocket of the wheel.
If the electric motor is set to , the torque will be transmitted to the front sprocket of the bicycle.
The set can be different types. Engine power is from one to two Horse power. Most powerful engine can accelerate up to 50 km/h.
A gas tank and muffler may also be included in the kit. The total mass of such an electric motor will be no more than five kilograms.
But such motors also have disadvantages. For example:
- An electric motor of such a modification is relatively expensive;
- The quality of the motor raises some doubts;
- The aesthetic characteristics of the electric motor are not ideal either.
ICE Kits
Two stroke motor with one cylinder
Such an engine is mounted on a bicycle frame. Its torque is transmitted to the sprocket front wheel. The advantage of this transmission is that you can switch the speed of the electric motor.
Here it is necessary to use a special gasoline-meat liquid, which is working mixture. The motor is cooled by air currents. His maximum power is 1.5 hp. This is a lot for a bike, so you can safely ride on a straight track. But when driving uphill, you should help the motor with pedals.
The maximum speed that can develop this engine- 30 km / h. For 100 km of road, the engine consumes one liter of combustible mixture.
The engine also comes with a muffler and a gas tank. With this kit, you can convert your old bike to a new fast bike.
Bicycle two stroke gas engine
This type of engine was invented by Chinese manufacturers. Its volume is 48 cm3. Its difference from a simple electric motor is that it has a gas bottle. The whole design of such a motor is questionable. Such an engine does not save anything, since gasoline engines consume little fuel.
Making an electric motor for a bicycle yourself
To improve your old bike yourself, you need to pick up desired engine for his new assignment. Since all electric motors are charged from the network, then you need to provide them with a battery of the required power. Sometimes they can reach impressive sizes, which is not always convenient and looks beautiful on a bicycle.
The most popular engine used in improving a bicycle is considered to be an engine from an old lawn mower or trimmer. The power of the motor should be taken into account, because if it is weak, then the bike will not even move. But too powerful will not work, as it will have large dimensions.
Motors for a bicycle can be chosen completely different. One has only to consider three parameters: weight, power, size.
How to make an electric bike yourself?
The sequence of manufacturing a bicycle with an electric motor:
- First of all, it is necessary to purchase all the components of the electric motor: the motor itself, the controller, batteries, a servo tester, Charger, the necessary wires, belts from the generator, freewheel, bushings, chain, sprocket, gear shifter, screws, nuts and much more.
- Next, assembly begins.
- Attach the sprocket to the hub with a diamond blade.
- The teeth on the chain must first be turned and fixed to a bushing with a diameter of 1 cm.
- Freewheel is connected to the chain and sprocket.
- The whole structure must be very strong, as traffic safety depends on it.
- It is necessary to ensure that the rotational movements from the motor to the sprocket are transmitted gradually so that there is no deformation of any parts of the mechanism. For this, pulleys and alternator belts are used.
- On the frame, it is desirable to put a stainless steel plate lubricated with thermal paste, on which the controller is attached.
- A servo tester is needed to regulate the power of the motor. It should be powered using a special microcircuit.
- If desired, you can install a wattmeter. With it, you can control the energy consumption.
- IN luggage compartment it is worth thinking of a place to mount the batteries.
How to install a bike outboard motor yourself?
You can install an electric motor yourself without the help of a specialist. The main thing is to choose the right engine.
Only knowing all the characteristics of the motor and the rules for connecting it to the battery and circuit can you cope with the task.
Operating procedure:
- The chain must be removed and one of its sides connected to the motor shaft.
- Engine with battery can be connected with powerful wires.
- It is better to mount the battery and motor somewhere in the center of the bike. This is done using clamps, clamps and other fasteners.
- The power button should be stretched out to the steering wheel and securely fastened there.
Electric bikes have many advantages that ordinary bikes do not have. There is no need to constantly pedal, they are very maneuverable and quite environmentally friendly. You can make them yourself from an old unnecessary bicycle, and it will last for many more years.
Good quality electric motors do not require special complex care, the main thing is to ensure that moisture does not get into it. Every fan of cycling, whether a traveler or an athlete, will appreciate all the delights of an improved bike that does not require any effort to ride.
Rating: 4.1 12 votes
Drive Requirements sewing machines.
Subject: Electric drive for sewing machines.
Lecture 7
On sewing machines the drive operates in an unusual way difficult conditions when within an hour
up to 1000 machine starts. Is there another technological machine with a similar mode of operation? And the speed of the main shaft is up to 9000 min-1! Many transmissions can not withstand such speeds! Hence and special requirements to the drive:
1. Speed - the ability to provide on the main shaft of the machine (5 - 6) 10 3 min -1.
2. Must withstand up to 1000 on-off switches per hour.
3. Soft start, smooth adjustment of machine speed.
4. Drive control - pedal with a maximum pressing force on it - 60 N while standing, and sitting up to 150 N.
5. Have a high K, P, D, (it becomes too hot in the workshop from a lot of closely spaced sewing machines), conveniently located (do not interfere with the operator to sit freely), safe in operation both electrically and mechanically.
6. The cost of e / drive should not be a subject of special discussion. (Automated electric drives have over 30 microcircuits, and its cost is equivalent to the cost of a machine head!)
In the sewing industry, three types of electric drives are mainly used, depending on the type and purpose of the technological machine:
· contactor- when by turning the switch or pressing the pedal the car immediately picks up the passport speed. No soft start or speed control required. The drive is used on low-speed, simple machines that are rarely turned off (rewinding fabric, duplicating it, etc.)
· Friction- when a pedal-controlled friction clutch is installed between a simple asynchronous electric motor and a V-belt transmission, providing smooth start and smooth speed control on the go. Today it has the widest distribution both on universal and special machines.
· automated electric drive. Allows you to program the operation of the machine, automatically perform the main and auxiliary operations of the technological cycle. Expensive and complicated, low efficiency. There is a tendency to replace it with a simple well-regulated DC motor.
Figure 5 shows a block diagram friction clutch friction electric drive of the sewing machine, on which are indicated:
1. Shaft asynchronous motor,
2. Drive disc, fixed at the end of this shaft, without ring plates, steel,
Driven disc, with annular pads on both sides of high-friction wear-resistant material.
The disk is fixed on the shaft 6 of the friction clutch.
3. Brake disc, fixed, often floating, i.e. Its plane self-aligns itself in the plane of disc 3 when in contact with it.
4. Compression spring, tends to shift shaft 6 together with disk 3 to the right until it comes into contact with disk 4.
5. Coupling shaft; a fixed fit with the left ball bearing of the sleeve 7 and a movable one with the right one.
6. Horizontally movable inner sleeve. Moves in the clutch housing to the right and left together with the shaft 6.
7. Pulley V-belt transmission, leading. On old industrial machines they put two pulleys - a smaller one (pos. 9 not shown) - for running in a new or old car from a repair; a decrease in the speed of the machine by » 25% was achieved.
10. Roller in the groove of the movable sleeve.
11. Double lever.
12. Adjustable length rod.
13. Pedal start.
14. Coupling housing, consisting of two parts (division is not shown in the diagram).
15 . Promtable machine.
16. Plate, to which the clutch housing assembly is hinged from below. In the hinge - a set screw; serves to fix the coupling body in the desired position for correct tension V-belt transmission.
A sample of an electric motor for a bicycle
Public transport is an annoying thing: you have to wait for it for a long time at stops, and having waited, go in a crush and closeness, which is unpleasant. A car is an expensive thing, so not everyone can afford it. Yes, and trains on it in big city obscured by traffic jams.
A motorcycle is not as expensive as a car, but it also requires a license, a garage, appropriate equipment, which is hot in summer. And the problem of traffic jams for him, as well as for a car, has not been solved. You won't get far on foot. What remains? Simple bike? But, there you need to pedal, which means that when you go to work fresh, you will get to it tired and not at all cheerful.
You can install an electric motor for a bicycle on a regular bike, turning it into modern look transport, which is becoming more and more popular year by year. Industrial electric bikes have a lot of advantages, but there are also disadvantages, one of which is the price. If you have a bike that you like: a mountain bike, with a basket to go grocery shopping, etc., then why not just install an electric motor on it so as not to part with your favorite vehicle? You can choose any type of electric motor, and apply a little ingenuity to it.
What are the types of engines? There are several of them: engine on friction gear, wheel motor, outboard.
Motor- the wheel is the most common, because it is ideal for conversion. To this advantage, we can add the fact that it does not practically change the design of the bike. The motor is small, so it is almost invisible. You can install it by mounting it in the front or rear hub. You can, if desired, install an electric motor on each wheel. The stores sell motor-wheels with a finished hub.
In addition to the motor-wheel, the bike will need to install a throttle.
Its power varies from 150 W to 2000. You can choose any, but each such engine needs its own battery. The speed that a bicycle is capable of developing with a motor-wheel - 60-70 kilometers per hour. On flat terrain, the cruising range is fifty kilometers. In mountainous terrain, it depends on the relief, so it is difficult to give an exact figure. In any case, it will not be less than thirty kilometers.
Some craftsmen increase the power of the motor wheel even up to 72 watts. But, in this case, there is a possibility of its failure, so it is better not to experiment.
outboard electric motor
This bike motor needs to be attached to the bottom tube of the frame or the bike bottom bracket. It will be an autonomous node in the design. In this case, a protective cover is required on the chain and on the engine itself. The battery that powers the electric motor is usually attached to the trunk or to the top tube of the frame. The advantage of this engine is the ability to regulate its consumption power with the help of a controller. For this, a special handle is installed on the steering wheel, similar to a motorcycle handle "gas". It will weigh more with such an electric motor for a bicycle, but it will also be able to develop a greater speed - up to 120 km/h. Fits outboard electric motor for most bike models.
Friction gear motor
This type of engine is the most inefficient of all. Its principle of operation is as follows: tire rear wheel The engine transmits power through the shaft. Its efficiency is low, besides, it spoils the wheel if it is lowered. If the bike rides wet road, then the drive may turn out to be useless at all, since the roller that rotates the wheel begins to slip. But, it has a significant plus - the installation does not require intervention in the very design of the bike.
On sale you can find any electric motor: Chinese manufacturer Bafang, also Bosch
Bafang engine (8FUN)
The set includes: motor-wheel mounted on the frame, controller and two-stage gearbox. There are sets with different power electric motor (from 250 to 750 watts) and operating voltage (24-48V). The controller current depends on the type of electric motor for a bicycle (respectively 15-29). Throttle, cranks, wires, brakes and display are all included. The maximum speed of the bike on which it will be installed is fifty kilometers per hour, weight - 3.5 kg.
Bosch electric drive
On the Bosch engine, you can drive with maximum speed 25 km/h. The following companies use these motors: Cannondale, Stevens, Scott and Merida. Its power is 250W, and peak - 350 watts. It is also sold as a kit with a sensor showing when vehicle need help, i.e. "twist" the pedals, l lithium-ion battery(36V 8Ah), four-amp charger, fully charges the battery in 2.5 hours, a computer with four operating modes. Thanks to him, the electric drive can be used more economically. The set is conveniently mounted in the pedal set and weighs only 2.3 kilograms, i.e. practically the design is not weighed down.
Another well-known manufacturer electric motors - Golden Motor Company. The kit includes: motor, throttle, battery, cable. The controller built into the motor, the voltage of which is 60 V, has protection against overheating and overloads. The speed developed by a bicycle with this engine is forty kilometers per hour, the maximum current is 25A (working within 5-10 A). The weight is three kilograms.
In many countries, electric bicycles have found their fans, while in our country they are taking their first steps. But, convenient, reliable, ecological transport will certainly find its consumer in our country.
The sewing electric drive of any industrial machine has not only a different speed control design (friction), but also a different wiring diagram, the principle of operation of the electric motor.
Household models of electric drives have low power from 40 to 110 watts, low rotation speed and asynchronous type of motor operation. In other words, a household electric motor cannot withstand large and prolonged loads and requires a periodic "break". The sewing engine of an industrial machine can work for days without a break, without overheating and without losing speed.
If you need a machine for mass sewing, then immediately think about a good suitable drive. According to the ads, you can buy cheap used tables with engines Soviet issue. These are reliable and efficient electric drives and perhaps these are exactly what you should use. But keep in mind that they all work very noisily, and this noise cannot be eliminated by any adjustment. Therefore, we recommend purchasing immediately good drive, for example, a table and a drive that come with a Typical sewing machine. And it is precisely such a sewing electric drive that we will consider in detail in this article.
The typical electric sewing drive can be bought separately and installed on any industrial table, but it is better to purchase it as a set with the table, especially since the table itself is cheaper than the motor.
By the way, a convenient sewing table can also be bought for a household sewing machine. A comfortable spacious table, and at the same time a sewing cutting table will make your work more comfortable, which will definitely affect your mood and, accordingly, the quality of work. If there is an opportunity and you have to sew a lot, never neglect such "little things".
Even such an insignificant detail as an electric drive switch creates comfort in work and influences mood.
Motor power and mains voltage
On front side motor there is a tag where the mains voltage and motor power are indicated.
If you are going to install the machine at home or in a small studio where there is no 380 volt outlet, choose an electric motor to work from a 220 volt network.
And the engine power this example does not really matter, since the speed of the machine depends on other factors. We will talk about this a little lower.
What is a friction drive? If you drive a car yourself, then you should know what a clutch is. So the clutch of the sewing electric drive is arranged in a similar way.
The motor rotates constantly at the same speed. When you press the pedal, the disc friction device(ferado) with textolite overlays fits the motor flywheel and interacts with it. The tighter you press the clutch disc against the flywheel of the electric motor, the better their grip and the higher the speed. Therefore, sometimes long work at a slow speed and the smell of burnt textolite appears.
Degree freewheel(without force) the drive pedal is adjusted by this thumb screw.
But with this screw, or rather with two screws (one more on the reverse side), the brakes are adjusted. Yes, exactly the brakes, almost like a car.
If you work for high speed, then after stopping the sewing machine by inertia, it will continue to rotate. Therefore, a brake is needed, which immediately stops the already unnecessary rotation. It is this screw with a locknut that regulates the degree of "sharpness" of the brake.
We did not upload a photo of the engine clutch device, an electrician should repair the engine, but you need to be able to regulate its operation with your own hands.
The height of the lift or the angle of the pedal is best adjusted here.
What determines the speed of an industrial sewing machine
The speed of an industrial sewing machine depends primarily on the number of revolutions of the electric motor. This parameter can be found on the tag or in the drive data sheet. But such details are of interest only to specialists in factory tailoring. For small manufacturers, this parameter of the engine is of secondary importance, since there is another way to adjust the speed of the industrial sewing machine.
Namely, by changing the engine pulley. The larger the pulley diameter, the higher top speed sewing machine operation.
It is not difficult to change the pulley, for this you need a key for 19 and the pulley itself, which is usually attached to the engine. But note that you will have to adjust the length of the drive belt, and in many cases it will have to be a different diameter.
No matter how good an industrial drive is, even such a modern, almost silent and beautiful one like Typical, but it is not always needed. This applies to seamstresses. They often work at home on industrial sewing machines such as class 1022, class 97. For various reasons, but primarily increased noise work, they cannot use them.
To solve this problem simply and inexpensively, buy the TUR-2 electric drive and install it directly on the body of an industrial machine. We will not explain how to install, in each case you have to use your own solution. But we can advise, if necessary, instead of a plug, solder the wires as shown in the photo.
In addition, if the position of the windings is resoldered in places in such an engine, the engine will rotate in the opposite direction. This advice will come in handy when connecting an overlock to such a drive.
But all these tips are intended only for an electrician, we highly recommend that amateurs do not disassemble the engine on their own, and, moreover, change or solder anything there. There is not only a direct danger of electric shock, but also a hidden one. It shows up after a long time. From overheating of the motor windings, even in out of order sewing machine, but connected to the mains, ignition of the windings may occur.
Other brands of electric motors can also be installed on industrial machines, but we only recommend what we have tested, namely the TUR-2 electric drive.
And do not forget that the speed of the machine is noticeably reduced and you can sew on it for a short time, taking long breaks (pauses).
Sometimes it becomes necessary to disassemble the sewing machine, or rather remove the plastic case of the machine in order to gain access to some nodes. This need is very rare and occurs only when the sewing machine motor needs to be replaced or drive belt. However, to replace the electric drive, it is sometimes enough to remove only the bottom and side covers. But to eliminate the "jamming" will have to disassemble the machine completely.
In this article, you will learn how to find the cause of a malfunctioning electric drive, as well as how to replace the electric motor yourself.
Typically, power sewing problems start with the pedal, not the motor. However, we do not recommend disassembling the pedal yourself. Handle the pedal with care, do not twist the wires, do not "stand" on them with the leg of a chair and generally remember that these wires pass electricity, voltage 220 volts.
Sewing manual machine - drive device and repair
sewing manual typewriter simply indispensable when sewing thick fabrics and even leather. But the manual drive is so inconvenient that there is no desire to use it. However, this situation is easy to fix if you buy a sewing electric drive along with a pedal and a drive belt in the kit. Each electric motor has a regular mount, which allows it to be installed even on a manual sewing machine.
The foot drive of the sewing machine in our time is more likely Museum exhibit. It rattles, knocks, and the legs get tired. In addition, often the machine starts to spin in the wrong direction. How to refuse to use it if the Chaika or Podolskaya typewriter suits you perfectly? You just need to install a sewing motor. Each Seagull has a mount for it. The electric drive itself costs only twice as much as a new foot drive belt.
The zigzag attachment for a sewing machine is an ingenious device that imitates the execution of a zigzag stitch with a conventional Podolsk-type lock-stitch machine.
In this article, you will learn why a machine with a horizontal shuttle loops and how to fix this sewing stitch defect with your own hands.
The sewing machine will not sew if the handwheel friction washer is not installed correctly or bushings, etc., have rusted during long periods of storage.
Each model of a household sewing machine has its own set of legs. Detailed description use of presser feet for household sewing machines Janome company.
To work with genuine leather special tools, fixtures for installing fittings, adhesive and other applied materials.
