I would like to know the advice of people who are versed in setting up Solex. Will these modifications help me? And where can I get a plus for the solenoid valve (I have contactless ignition). In general, you need to look for a specialist in carburetors. I myself held the carburetor in my hands for the first time, there is little experience.
Your accelerator pump gooseneck is native. Buy more Niva, and take the phone out of it. Next, take your gander out of the carb (you have it double), take out a similar tube from it (which looks into the first camera) and insert instead of it from the Niva. You will be pleasantly surprised by the acceleration
And See that they do not piss along the walls and dampers, but clearly into the collector.
By the way, you can put the lever itself, which presses on the membrane of the accelerator pump, from the Niva carb)
VAZ carburetor for Ford Sierra
One fine day I decided that I should try to deliver. :)
I bought a carb DAAZ - 21053-1107010-20 (Solex) for 1500 rubles, several clamps, a suction cable, and a gas hose in the nearest auto shop ...
In order for the carb to fit properly on the Ford intake manifold, I had to grind it off with a round file here:
By the way, on Fords, whoever has an old-type carb webber (with square diffusers) would most likely not have to grind anything, as far as I know, the distance between the studs practically coincides with our solexes ... I already had a new webber (with round diffusers ) narrower, by the way, if you put a pirburg or motorcraft instead of a carb, then you need to change the intake manifold to from a webber.
drowned out unnecessary pipes :)
The suction cable is attached to the bar 2 and pulls the choke lever 3, to the same bar 2 the gas cable is fastened with a clamp, pulling the gas lever 1
... What can I say, I splashed gasoline into the carburetor, started up, but immediately stalled ...
it turned out this:
the idle valve was poorly screwed, it must be carefully tightened, the main thing is not to overtighten so as not to spoil the XX jet and its seat in the carb ...
I took the valve power from the plus of the ignition coil.
After that, idle became ok, but it turned out that during acceleration there was a terrible failure.
... remove the carb cover and adjust the jet from the accelerator pump sprayer, bending the tube so that it does not spray on the walls of the diffuser or on the throttle, but exactly between them, right into the manifold
pulls out easily with a screwdriver.
I ended up doing something like this:
I bent the second (long) tube into the first chamber, I have a two-liter engine, with two tubes just right.
The photo shows a cut bent tube, you can not cut it, but just bend it in a circle.
The suction cable led under the steering wheel instead of a plug.
Everything went ... :) For the sake of interest, I put back my native carb ... sadness :)
Then I bought a Nivovsky repair kit, put more jets ...
What else can I advise, for an engine larger than 1.6 it is better (necessary) to take a carb DAAZ 21073 Nivovsky
ps I took an air filter pan from a friend:
but it turned out that the suction lever rests against it from below, I had to cut off the beak at the pan and turn it around)
here is such a collective farm)))
Vyacheslav
Good afternoon everyone!
I have a similar situation - no spark on 2-3 cylinders. Hurrying up, I bought new high-voltage wires - the problem remained. Before making the following purchases, I removed the coil, rang - everything rings symmetrically: between the central and outer contacts of the 3-pin connector 0.9 Ohm and in one direction and the other (with short-circuited tester probes - 0.3 Ohm), between 2 and 3 output to the candles - somewhere around 13.5 kOhm, in the same way between 1 and 4, and neither among themselves - 2-3 from 1-4, nor on the mass they do not ring. Turns out the coil is fine. We go further according to the scheme - 3 wires go to the coil with the ignition ECU ESCP pins 8, 11, 12. Today I will ring these wires, but at the same time you can check the following: pin 11 of the ECU receives power from the ignition switch through a resistor, which in turn is connected through ground capacitor. And here comes the question for the more knowledgeable:
1. Is it possible to measure the signal on 8, 11, 12 contacts of the ECU and, if so, what is it equal to?
2. If we assume that a signal from 8-12 contacts comes to one primary winding of the coil, and from 8-11 to the second, can a faulty capacitor fail on the second winding? And at the same time, who will tell you its face value in order to prepare it in advance?
Shtopor wrote:
about the reset
1 removed contacts from TPS
5 put everything in place
| Good afternoon everyone! I really hope that my problem lies in the wires, capacitor or poor contact, because. otherwise, the prospect of replacing the computer comes up, which is not very tasty for the money. I will be glad to any advice. _________________ |
|
| Finally, the precipitation ended and today there was an opportunity to ring the wiring calmly in the open air. The question remains: what to do next?
Have you tried disabling the tachometer? Thanks for the advice, but when I checked the removed coil and ECU, I found that not a single coil and ECU contact is ringing to its case. The tachometer seems to be working fine - at startup, its readings are consistent with the sound of the engine, but if the wire to it was short, it would show some kind of nonsense. And yes, I haven't found this one yet. Now I'm more interested in this garbage in a ceramic case - the capacitor should not ring, and a resistor of this size (diameter 12 / 14mm, length 66mm) should have more than one kOhm. In addition, there are obvious traces of electroerosion on the inside of its cover - I think this should not be. |
Wrong, without sensors, he won’t even notice that the crankshaft is spinning .. Well, you really have to be smart there.
If the tachometer works, then there are impulses on the branch connected to it, you must understand that there is a spark there. So this idea is probably wrong.
I found the killed Eight in the night, took it off for clarity. Unfortunately, I didn’t find the killed Escort to remove the Weber collector, the Cop siren scared away
1. If there is a Weber collector.
We clamp the Solex in a vise. Having previously drowned out all the fittings and chambers from chips (and it will be) We take a round file or cutter with a drill (this is 20 times faster) We saw through the rear 2 holes on the flange to the bottom. Until the carb sits on the studs freely without possible distortions. Weber studs are high (place adjusting nuts of a larger size).
Back view
2. Remove the spacer from the collector. This is how this infection looks
3. Install the paranitic gasket on the studs (from the weber). Then carefully place the carb, making sure that it does not sway and lies flat around the perimeter - THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT, because air leakage is not allowed in this place. Compress the nuts one by one - without fanaticism, this too bad.
Plug off all excess hoses.
4. Now we put the cable bracket on the collector, slightly modifying the bracket (from Weber) the eight will not work. We put the Ford cable, remove the black rocking chair under the cable from the 08 carb. tear the hole in the tip. Then the latch-clip (weber) The suction cable is better from 08 - it is single-core. I tried to leave the Ford (multi-core) 08 carb I didn’t like it. .Make a bracket and screw it to the air inlet box with self-tapping screws. Return spring to it.
5. Connect the fuel hoses as shown.
Top view. The most important thing is not to skimp and buy the original 2108, the price difference is not big, but it will save you from hemorrhoids (chips in the channels, jammed balls of the accelerator pump and defective valve xx) Unfortunately, I already know such cases.
And before installation, fill the float chamber with gasoline and hold it in your hands (over a friend’s beer) Show your tongue, press the accelerating pump lever all the way. There should be 2 smooth and long jets. Then it will be clear that your engine will definitely start.
Vozduhan from 08 is great. And if you remove the sealing gum from it and change it to a thinner one, then the hood will close well. For Solks is a few cm higher than Weber
6. Next, for the convenience of tuning without air, we try to start the motor. If everything is done correctly, it will start pleasantly easily and immediately from the suction, of course. We warm up the motor and adjust the speed. setting the suction cable so that the air damper tightly closes the 1st chamber. It is done as follows: close the damper with your hand, hang the cable without clamping it, and pull out the handle in the cabin. , drown the handle in the cabin not completely, leaving a couple of mm, then tighten the cable on the carb, first the braid, then the cable screw. This will allow you to open and close the damper confidently until the end of the stroke.
Left side view
Setting the mixture and xx.
I do this, once every half a year (winter-summer), in winter I only slightly raise the amount without touching the mixture.
This is acceptable for any gasoline engine carbs.
1. Set the quantity screw (black plastic) to about 850 rpm.
2. Use the quality screw (recessed in the casing) to set the maximum speed.
3. if the speed has risen, now reduce the amount.
4. and again raise the quality screw to 850 rpm.
5. Now tighten the quality screw until the motor starts to shake slightly.
6. The last stage: unscrew the same quality screw by a quarter or a third, that is, it will achieve a stable speed.
If there is a tachometer, great! It will help, if not, by ear.
All this is provided that the engine is warmed up to operating temperature. It is advisable to short-circuit the Carlson contacts during tuning.
Little addition.
It is recommended to modify the manifold for the transition to the carb.
There shouldn't be any stairs. For this there is a rasp.
We remove the manifold (at the same time, you can grind the landing and change the gasket to the block) put the carb and see where and what needs to be ground off. We work and try to bring to the ideal. The more direct the channel, the better.
I also ask everyone to remember that the paranitic gasket SHOULD NOT reduce the carb holes (there are a lot of fakes), so when buying, immediately check the gasket, it is better if it is slightly (0.5-1mm) larger than the carb holes.
I'll add my two cents if you'd like. I did this operation the other day. Upon closer examination, it turned out that when boring the holes as shown in the figure, the diffuser holes do not really fall on the holes in the manifold. HOWEVER, you can bore all the holes towards each other by half the total difference in the landing size, and then you won’t have to do anything with the collector, my holes matched perfectly. Location allows on both sides. There was no gasket from Weber, so an eighth gasket was installed, in which the holes were bored in the same way as on the carburetor.
Also, if you do not change the weber to the eighth, but put this collector getting rid of the Ford VV, then with straight arms, you can leave the original air filter housing. It will be clear what needs to be improved. But this is for special perverts
Good day. I want to tell you about my saga of replacing the Weber carburetor with Solex 21083-1107010 I agreed to carry out the operation together with an experienced surgeon Dmitry Andreevich Acquired: Solex carburetor DAAZ 21083-1107010 Suction cable Pan assembly Return spring, accelerator dampers (throttle cable) Long benzo hose Carburetor gaskets paronite 2 pcs Stamp on the solenoid valve 2 pcs. Hose to the expansion tank VAZ In a plumbing store: Fitting with an internal thread 1/2 D 16 - 2 pcs. Union with external thread 1/2 D 10 - 2 pcs. Gaskets will hurt ½ - 6pcs. In hardware: 6x20-5 hexagon socket screws (in the collector, 1 spare) 6x30-5 hexagon socket screws. (in carb., 1 spare) Bolts from M8 to M4 with incomplete thread L-35mm (for jamming tubes by 3 pcs.) Bolts M8x30 - 3 pcs. (for bracket) D8 high washers for bracket adjustment. Nuts M6-5pcs. Washers D6-5pcs. Grover Washers D6-5pcs. Nut-Lamb M5-pcs. Washers D5 body-4 pcs. Screw clamps - 10 pcs. Corner furniture "65" -1pc Tools: Kern. Chinese countersink - 20 rubles.
tap M6. round file. the file is semicircular. drill D2 -2pcs. drill D3,5 -2 pcs. drill D5 -1pc. drill D6,5 -1pc. drill D10 -1pc. Sandpaper on Saturday took off Weber.
I measured and drew the manifold and bracket in AutoCAD.
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File comment: Overlay Collectors.jpg |
On Sunday I made a spacer: I glued a printout of the spacer drawing to the workpiece with adhesive tape. punched all the holes. drilled with a 2mm drill. countersinked (the holes for the carburetor screws should be countersinked, taking into account that there is where to cut the thread). drilled with a D5mm drill (under the thread, for the carburetor), and D6.5mm (into the manifold). I cut the thread so that the screws had a slight inclination to the center of the spacer (1-2 degrees), the carburetor screws did not sink in, I had to grind off part of the head, saw through the tip of the screw under a screwdriver with a straight slot. I drilled all the holes along the perimeter of the large holes with a D3.5mm drill, knocked out the jumpers with a screwdriver. finished the holes with a file, checking with the gaskets, polished the planes for the gaskets. The display is ready!!!
Under the bracket of the gas cable, I made a scan on paper 1: 1, Through the glued scan, I filled all the holes and corners with a core, connected the points of the corners with a scriber, cut out the detail with a grinder, drilled holes, knocked out the jumpers, finalized with files The bracket is ready !!! On Monday, March 8, at 14.00, they started assembling (the weather did not indulge, a real snowstorm began in the late afternoon). The process of installing the carburetor has already been described in detail on the forum. I will not repeat myself. I will focus on installing the bracket, and disconnecting the stepper motor. The bracket is best installed through washers.
Selecting the height and installation angle with washers. Under the spring there is a “transition fitting” from the hoses for supplying coolant to the Weber automatic air damper control device to the hose of the Solex 21083 heating unit.
In the block into which the stepper motor connector is inserted, you need to bridge the 1st and 2nd contacts.
These contacts are responsible for the idle switch.
The principle of its operation is as follows: when the gas pedal is fully released, the stop of the throttle lever presses on the shaft of the CMM (which, in combination, is a kind of push-type switch button) and, thereby, opens the circuit connected to the EEC-IV, which signals the latter about the need to maintain idle speed by sending control commands to the stepper motor (as long as the idle switch is pressed and opened the circuit).
After everything was installed, they started. Started right up, but the revs fluctuated a lot. Less than 1000 car stalled. They screwed the quality screw with a fool. After turning off the engine, there was a glow ignition. The problem turned out to be the EPHX solenoid valve. After the fuel jet of the idle system was removed, the speed stabilized. Let's go for a ride, revealed another problem. RPM drop on hard throttle. The idle speed still floats when it’s 500, when it’s under 1000. At idle, it feels like not all cylinders are firing (maybe the candles are dirty, with a poor-quality mixture). I found an article on the net about replacing Weber with Solex on the Sierra. It describes how to solve a similar problem.
I would like to know the advice of people who are versed in setting up Solex. Will these modifications help me? And where can I get a plus for the solenoid valve (I have contactless ignition). In general, you need to look for a specialist in carburetors. I myself held the carburetor in my hands for the first time, there is little experience.
Your accelerator pump gooseneck is native. Buy more Niva, and take the phone out of it. Next, take your gander out of the carb (you have it double), take out a similar tube from it (which looks into the first camera) and insert instead of it from the Niva. You will be pleasantly surprised by the overclocking And see that they do not piss along the walls and dampers, but clearly into the manifold. By the way, you can put the lever itself, which presses on the membrane of the accelerator pump, from the Niva carb)
VAZ carburetor for Ford Sierra
One fine day I decided that I should try to deliver. :)
I bought a carb DAAZ - 21053-1107010-20 (Solex) for 1500 rubles, several clamps, a suction cable, and a gas hose in the nearest auto shop ...
In order for the carb to fit properly on the Ford intake manifold, I had to grind it off with a round file here:
By the way, on Fords, whoever has an old-type carb webber (with square diffusers) would most likely not have to grind anything, as far as I know, the distance between the studs practically coincides with our solexes ... I already had a new webber (with round diffusers ) narrower, by the way, if you put a pirburg or motorcraft instead of a carb, then you need to change the intake manifold to from a webber.
drowned out unnecessary pipes :)
The suction cable is attached to the bar 2 and pulls the choke lever 3, to the same bar 2 the gas cable is fastened with a clamp, pulling the gas lever 1
... What can I say, I splashed gasoline into the carburetor, started up, but immediately stalled ...
it turned out this:
the idle valve was poorly screwed, it must be carefully tightened, the main thing is not to overtighten so as not to spoil the XX jet and its seat in the carb ...
I took the valve power from the plus of the ignition coil.
After that, idle became ok, but it turned out that during acceleration there was a terrible failure.
... remove the carb cover and adjust the jet from the accelerator pump sprayer, bending the tube so that it does not spray on the walls of the diffuser or on the throttle, but exactly between them, right into the manifold
pulls out easily with a screwdriver.
I ended up doing something like this:
I bent the second (long) tube into the first chamber, I have a two-liter engine, with two tubes just right.
The photo shows a cut bent tube, you can not cut it, but just bend it in a circle.
The suction cable led under the steering wheel instead of a plug.
Everything went ... :) For the sake of interest, I put back my native carb ... sadness :)
Then I bought a Nivovsky repair kit, put more jets ...
What else can I advise, for an engine larger than 1.6 it is better (necessary) to take a carb DAAZ 21073 Nivovsky
ps I took an air filter pan from a friend:
but it turned out that the suction lever rests against it from below, I had to cut off the beak at the pan and turn it around)
here is such a collective farm)))
Vyacheslav
Good afternoon everyone! I have a similar situation - no spark on 2-3 cylinders. Hurrying up, I bought new high-voltage wires - the problem remained. Before making the following purchases, I removed the coil, rang - everything rings symmetrically: between the central and outer contacts of the 3-pin connector 0.9 Ohm and in one direction and the other (with short-circuited tester probes - 0.3 Ohm), between 2 and 3 output to the candles - somewhere around 13.5 kOhm, in the same way between 1 and 4, and neither among themselves - 2-3 from 1-4, nor on the mass they do not ring. Turns out the coil is fine. We go further according to the scheme - 3 wires go to the coil with the ignition ECU ESCP pins 8, 11, 12. Today I will ring these wires, but at the same time you can check the following: pin 11 of the ECU receives power from the ignition switch through a resistor, which in turn is connected through ground capacitor. And here questions arise for those who are more knowledgeable: 1. Is it possible to measure the signal at 8, 11, 12 contacts of the computer and, if so, what is it equal to? 2. If we assume that a signal from 8-12 contacts comes to one primary winding of the coil, and from 8-11 to the second, can a faulty capacitor fail on the second winding? And at the same time, who will tell you its face value in order to prepare it in advance? I really hope that my problem lies in the wires, capacitor or poor contact, because. otherwise, the prospect of replacing the computer comes up, which is not very tasty for the money. The only thing, maybe it's worth trying to reset the ECU, as indicated in the book or wrote Corkscrew
Shtopor wrote:
about resetting - 1 removed the contacts from the TPS 2. closed the middle and upper contacts 3 removed the plug from the diagnostic connector (it hangs around the ignition module, triangular with a red plug) 4 inserted a wire into the upper contact and connected it to ground - held it for 5 seconds 5 set everything into place
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Good afternoon everyone! I have a problem - no spark on 2-3 cylinders. Hurrying up, I bought new high-voltage wires - the problem remained. Before making the following purchases, I removed the coil, rang - everything rings symmetrically: between the central and outer contacts of the 3-pin connector 0.9 Ohm and in one direction and the other (with short-circuited tester probes - 0.3 Ohm), between 2 and 3 output to the candles - somewhere around 13.5 kOhm, in the same way between 1 and 4, and neither among themselves - 2-3 from 1-4, nor on the mass they do not ring. Turns out the coil is fine. We go further according to the scheme - 3 wires go to the coil with the ignition ECU ESCP pins 8, 11, 12. Today I will ring these wires, but at the same time you can check the following: pin 11 of the ECU receives power from the ignition switch through a resistor, which in turn is connected through ground capacitor. And here questions arise for those who are more knowledgeable: 1. Is it possible to measure the signal at 8, 11, 12 contacts of the computer and, if so, how to do it correctly and what is it equal to? 2. If we assume that a signal from 8-12 contacts comes to one primary winding of the coil, and from 8-11 to the second, can a faulty capacitor fail on the second winding? And at the same time, who will tell you its face value in order to prepare it in advance? Did I understand correctly that it is next to the ECU? I really hope that my problem lies in the wires, capacitor or poor contact, because. otherwise, the prospect of replacing the computer comes up, which is not very tasty for the money. The only thing, it might be worth trying to reset the ECU, as indicated in the book or wrote. one with a red plug) 4 inserted a wire into the upper contact and connected it to ground - held it for 5 seconds 5 put everything in place I would be glad for any advice. Sincerely, Vladimir. _________________ |
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Finally, the precipitation ended and today there was an opportunity to ring the wiring calmly in the open air. Here surprises awaited me: 1, of course, I’m a kettle in the automaker, but having studied a smart book and other available sources, I can say with confidence that I have a CVH engine with a carburetor (I removed the air filter, touched it with my own hands). BUT, the connection of the electronic ignition control unit corresponds to the scheme for a 1.4 engine with CFI fuel injection - 10 and 12, the ECU contact rings from the 1st and 3rd coils, 11 - is not in the connector, 9 - rings from the 2nd coil and ground (when the ignition is off). 2 I removed the ECU (a smooth black box with a pack of Prima cigarettes, with the inscription "Motorcraft" on the case and ESCP4 on a tag glued to the connector), cleaned it of dirt, looked inside - the board was filled with transparent silicone without visible damage. By the way, none of the contacts of the connector rings on the silumin case of the computer. 3 A connector is attached to the steel plate to which the ECU is screwed, in which 2 contacts are closed by a jumper - a wire loop, and either a resistor or a capacitor is attached to two more under a metal cover with the inscription 12AC000 made in Germany 4 C of the disconnected winding ECU connector the coils sound exactly the same, but a test run of the engine gave a disappointing result - exhaust with soot, the twentieth revolutions are unstable around 500, the car shudders finely - it seems that only two cylinders are still working. The question remains: what to do next? If the UAC is right, and during operation one of the coil windings is pierced by high-voltage pulses, then it is necessary to change it in Fig. I'll try to negotiate at the car market about the possible return of the coil if it turns out to be not in it. But then what? Not many options left - ECU? Everything else at first glance would affect the operation of the ignition as a whole. but only half of them don't work. I will be glad to any advice. Sincerely, Vladimir.
Have you tried disabling the tachometer? Or just throw two new wires from the ECU to the coil to try. By the way, check the ground, you have a coil on the cylinder block, as far as I remember, there is probably a contact there (although check it), and the ECU on the case, try to throw a "ground" wire to the ECU directly from the engine mass to the coil. Well, all the masses are worth checking .. Thanks for the advice, but when I checked the removed coil and ECU, I found that not a single coil and ECU contact is ringing to its case. The tachometer seems to be working fine - at startup, its readings are consistent with the sound of the engine, but if the wire to it was short, it would show some kind of nonsense. And yes, I haven't found this one yet. Now I'm more interested in this garbage in a ceramic case - the capacitor should not ring, and a resistor of this size (diameter 12 / 14mm, length 66mm) should have more than one kOhm. In addition, there are obvious traces of electroerosion on the inside of its cover - I think this should not be. I checked the masses visually, but tomorrow I will check with the tester. But with the wires from the ECU to the coil, you need to be smart - to disassemble the connectors, because just three wires with a disconnected 12-pin on the ECU (and, accordingly, with the sensors turned off) is not right, is it? |
Wrong, without sensors, he won’t even notice that the crankshaft is spinning .. Well, you really have to be smart there. If the tachometer works, then there are impulses on the branch connected to it, you must understand that there is a spark there. So this idea is probably wrong.
Here I found the killed Eight in the night, took it off for clarity. Unfortunately, I did not find the killed Escort to remove the Weber collector, the Cop siren frightened 1. If there was a Weber collector. We clamp the Solex in a vise. Having previously drowned out all the fittings and chambers from chips (and it will be) We take a round file or cutter with a drill (this is 20 times faster) We saw through the rear 2 holes on the flange to the bottom. Until the carb sits on the studs freely without possible distortions. Weber studs are high (place adjusting nuts of a larger size).
Back view
2. Remove the spacer from the collector. This is how this infection looks
3. Install the paranitic gasket on the studs (from the weber). Then carefully place the carb, making sure that it does not sway and lies flat around the perimeter - THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT, because air leakage is not allowed in this place. Compress the nuts one by one - without fanaticism, this too bad. Plug off all excess hoses.
4. Now we put the cable bracket on the collector, slightly modifying the bracket (from Weber) the eight will not work. We put the Ford cable, remove the black rocking chair under the cable from the 08 carb. tear the hole in the tip. Then the latch-clip (weber) The suction cable is better from 08 - it is single-core. I tried to leave the Ford (multi-core) 08 carb I didn’t like it. .Make a bracket and screw it to the air inlet box with self-tapping screws. Return spring to it.
5. Connect the fuel hoses as shown.
Top view. The most important thing is not to skimp and buy the original 2108, the price difference is not big, but it will save you from hemorrhoids (chips in the channels, jammed balls of the accelerator pump and defective valve xx) Unfortunately, I already know such cases. And before installation, fill the float chamber with gasoline and hold it in your hands (over a friend’s beer) Show your tongue, press the accelerating pump lever all the way. There should be 2 smooth and long jets. Then it will be clear that your engine will definitely start.
Vozduhan from 08 is great. And if you remove the sealing gum from it and change it to a thinner one, then the hood will close well. For Solks is a few cm higher than Weber
6. Next, for the convenience of tuning without air, we try to start the motor. If everything is done correctly, it will start pleasantly easily and immediately from the suction, of course. We warm up the motor and adjust the speed. setting the suction cable so that the air damper tightly closes the 1st chamber. It is done as follows: close the damper with your hand, hang the cable without clamping it, and pull out the handle in the cabin. , drown the handle in the cabin not completely, leaving a couple of mm, then tighten the cable on the carb, first the braid, then the cable screw. This will allow you to open and close the damper confidently until the end of the stroke.
Left side view
Setting the mixture and xx. I do this, once every half a year (winter-summer), in winter I only slightly raise the amount without touching the mixture. This is acceptable for any gasoline engine carbs. 1. Set the quantity screw (black plastic) to about 850 rpm. 2. Use the quality screw (recessed in the casing) to set the maximum speed. 3. if the speed has risen, now reduce the amount. 4. and again raise the quality screw to 850 rpm. 5. Now tighten the quality screw until the motor starts to shake slightly. 6. The last stage: unscrew the same quality screw by a quarter or a third, that is, it will achieve a stable speed. If there is a tachometer, great! It will help, if not, by ear. All this is provided that the engine is warmed up to operating temperature. It is advisable to short-circuit the Carlson contacts during tuning.
Little addition. It is recommended to modify the manifold for the transition to the carb. There shouldn't be any stairs. For this there is a rasp. We remove the manifold (at the same time, you can grind the landing and change the gasket to the block) put the carb and see where and what needs to be ground off. We work and try to bring to the ideal. The more direct the channel, the better. I also ask everyone to remember that the paranitic gasket SHOULD NOT reduce the carb holes (there are a lot of fakes), so when buying, immediately check the gasket, it is better if it is slightly (0.5-1mm) larger than the carb holes.
I'll add my two cents if you'd like. I did this operation the other day. Upon closer examination, it turned out that when boring the holes as shown in the figure, the diffuser holes do not really fall on the holes in the manifold. HOWEVER, you can bore all the holes towards each other by half the total difference in the landing size, and then you won’t have to do anything with the collector, my holes matched perfectly. Location allows on both sides. There was no gasket from Weber, so an eighth gasket was installed, in which the holes were bored in the same way as on the carburetor. Also, if you do not change the weber to the eighth, but put this collector getting rid of the Ford VV, then with straight arms, you can leave the original air filter housing. It will be clear what needs to be improved. But this is for special perverts
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A - carburetor cover, |
H - accelerator pump diaphragm, J is the diaphragm of the full load enrichment device (full power), K is the diaphragm of the medium load enrichment device, L - float, M - emulsion tube of the 1st chamber, N - idle jet of chamber I, P - needle valve, Q - mesh fuel filter, R - emulsion tube II chamber |
Installing a stepper motor for adjusting the idle speed of a Weber carburetor
Weber 85 HF idle adjustment
The 1.6 dm 3 LSD engine uses a two-chamber Weber 84 HF 9510 CA carburetor.
Since the 1985 model year, the 2.0 dm 3 NET engine uses a Weber 85 HF 9510 CA carburetor (in vehicles with a manual transmission) or a Weber 8 HF 9510 DA (in vehicles with an automatic transmission). The design of the main elements of these carburetors is identical to the Weber 83 HF carburetors previously used in 2.0 dm 3 engines.
The Weber 84 HF and 85 HF carburetors contain the following new elements:
– the throttle valve of a mix of II chamber is controlled by the vacuum formed in an inlet collector;
- the automatic starting device has an electric heating (only 85 HF - engine 2.0 dm 3);
- The idle speed is controlled by an electric stepper motor that drives the throttle valve I of the chamber. This engine receives control signals from the ESC II ignition control module (85 HF only - 2.0 dm 3 engine).
Checking and adjusting Weber carburetors
Below is information regarding only the check and adjustment of idle speed, as well as the removal and installation of a stepper motor for controlling the throttle valve of the mixture of the 1st chamber at idle speed of Weber 85 HF 9510 CA and DA carburetors used in engines 2.0 dm 3 type NET.
Removal and installation of a stepper motor and basic idle adjustment - motor 2.0 dm 3 type NET
Removing and installing the idle speed control stepper motor is not particularly difficult.
| PROCEDURE | |||||||
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Adjusting the composition of the mixture (CO content) at idle - engine 2.0 dm 3 type NET
| PROCEDURE | |||||||
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Adjustment data for Weber carburetors
| Carburetor |
Ford produced a huge number of gasoline models with carburetors. It even seemed that the company was just experimenting with this method of nutrition. Only at least 10 modifications of Weber carburetors were used. But there were also Solex, Pierburg, and their own developments. The presented Weber carburetors were one of the first on which the carburetor was supplied with an electronic controller for managing the power system.
Attention!
On our website in the "Carburettors/Vacuum Diagrams" section you can find vacuum diagrams for Weber carburetor power systems for all Ford models.
In addition, your attention in the sections:
- "Carburetor/Wiring Diagrams" - wiring diagrams and connector for the Weber carburetor power control controller on Ford models;
- "Technical data / Gasoline models" - all technical data on all nodes of almost all Ford gasoline models, regardless of the power system;
- "Tightening torques/Gasoline models" - tightening torques for all threaded connections of the presented models;
- Wiring Diagrams - detailed wiring diagrams for all components of all Ford models.
Specifications
|
Parameter |
|||||
| Model |
Ford Granada/Scorpio2,0 |
||||
| Year of release | |||||
| Engine code | |||||
| - volume | |||||
| - power, kWt) | |||||
| Year of manufacture of the carburetor |
November, 1984-1989 |
||||
| Carburetor manufacturer | |||||
| Carburetor type | |||||
| - identification number(s) |
85HF-9510-CA 85HF-9510-DA |
85HF-9510-GA 85HF-9510-CA |
85HF-9510-DA |
85HF-9510-GA 85HF-9510-CA |
|
| Idling speed (rpm) | |||||
| CO level at idle (%) | |||||
| Increased idle speed (rpm) | |||||
| Working injection | |||||
| Injection at idle | |||||
| Air damper gap (mm) | |||||
| Air damper stroke (mm) | |||||
| Float level - top (mm) |
Attention!
All Ford models introduced were produced with both manual and automatic transmissions. Models Granada and Scorpio were also produced in two versions - with and without a catalyst.
Adjustments, Carburetor installed
Attention!
In order to prevent unauthorized changes in position, most of the adjusting screws of the presented car models are sealed. If adjustments are necessary, the seals must be removed. But upon completion of all work, it is strongly recommended to restore the seals.
Before starting the adjustment, the following preconditions must be met:
- all other adjustments (including valve clearances, ignition system) are carried out in full;
- there are no air leaks in the induction system;
- the engine is at normal operating temperature;
- air filter in place
- air damper is fully open;
- all electrical components are off (except for the cooling fan);
- exhaust gas analyzer and rev counter connected according to the manufacturer's instructions; the analyzer on models with a catalyst is installed on the outlet pipeline.
idle speed control
Achievable values: 800 rpm
Important note: All idling parameters are controlled by a stepper motor and an electronic system. If necessary, the CO level can be adjusted in the usual way, while idle speeds cannot be adjusted. If the increased idle speed is not within specifications, it can be increased using the connector next to the engine control module - grounding the yellow wire (A, Fig. 1) will cause an increase in speed of approximately 75 revolutions.
Adjustment is usually carried out when replacing a stepper motor using the throttle adjusting screw (B, fig. 2).
- Start the engine at idle, let it warm up to normal operating temperature, bring the speed to 2500.
- Let the idle run.
- Using a 1.0 mm feeler gauge, check the clearance between the plunger and the adjusting screw. This gap should correspond to a speed of 850-900 rpm. Adjust the gap if necessary.
- Recheck the speed. Make adjustments again if necessary.
- Seal the screw.
- The procedures carried out must be followed by the stepper motor test procedures.
- With the ignition off, close the throttle fully.
- Partially open it within 4 seconds to ventilate the manifold.
- When the ignition is turned on, the stepper motor should independently set the throttle to the optimum position depending on the temperature.
Level controlCO
Achievable values:
- engineNE4: 1,0 – 1,5%;
- enginesNER / NE5 / NES : 0,5 – 1,5%;
- other engines: 0.75 - 1.25%
Important note: Catalyst models must have a gas analyzer connected to the pipeline.
- The engine must be at normal operating temperature to be adjusted.
- Run the engine at idle at 3000 rpm for 30 seconds.
- As soon as the readings of the gas analyzer and the revolution counter stabilize, record the readings.
- If necessary, adjust with screw A (fig. 3).
- Seal the screw.
- All operations must be completed within 30 seconds.
Automatic choke
The choke system on the carburetors of the presented models is fully automatic.
Once the engine reaches normal operating temperature, the throttle will be maintained in the fully open position.
If the engine is cold and the loads are light, the vacuum system increases the spring tension to enrich the fuel.
With full throttle and a cold engine, the mechanical link opens the choke to prevent over enrichment.
Air damper gap adjustment
- Remove the air damper assembly, bimetal spring and heating jacket.
- Use the choke lever to keep it closed (B, fig. 4).
- Manually press the diaphragm up to the limit of its elasticity.
- Use a suitable feeler gauge or drill to measure the gap between the damper and the housing (A, fig. 4).
- Adjust if necessary using the diaphragm stop screw (C, fig. 4).
- Assemble the damper. Before finally tightening the screws, make sure that the marks (A, fig. 5) are exactly aligned.
- Replace the air filter and connect the battery.
Float level adjustment
Achievable values:
distance“X” : 7 .5 - 8.5 mm
- Disconnect the battery and air filter.
- Remove the top cover of the carburetor and hold it in a vertical position (Fig. 6).
- Without removing the gaskets, measure the gap “X” (fig. 6) between the float and the carburetor body.
- If necessary, adjust by bending arm A (fig.6).
- Reinstall the carburetor, air filter, connect the battery.
Video description:
Ford sierra sierra car test drive. Today we made a review of the Sierra, Ford Sierra forgotten old man from the 90s - we tried to disassemble everything down to the screw so that there are no more questions about the Sierra. Ford Sierra was produced from 1982 to 1994. The Ford Sierra video tells what Ford engines the Ford Sierra car was equipped with, what the Siera has the main flaws in the body and chassis. Let's talk about the Ford Siera as the first car. Our car costs 2500 dollars. I think that this car is ideal as a first car. It was equipped with Ford 1.6, 1.8 2.0 gasoline engines and some Ford diesel engines. The video shows a car for 2500 dollars. In the review, we talk about the 2.0 engine, unfortunately we do not touch on the 1.8 cvh. The Ford Sierra 1.8 cvh engine is not as common as the 2.0 dohc.
00:01 - your first car ciera video (car for 2500 dollars)
00:51 - start of the review on the car ford sierra
01:21 - Ford Siera engines
03:30 - Ford Sierra suspension problems
03:50 - review of the Ford Sierra salon
04:15 - the first Ford Sierra car
06:40 - ford sierra trunk video (car for 2500 dollars)
07:32 - test drive ford sierra video
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