thank you in advance
Dmitry (Sarvajna) Konstantin, very simple!! you digest the frame, cut out the inner disk from the Ural wheel and attach the wheel from the zaparik there !!!
Ivan (Abegail) Dmitry, do you need to center? won't hit? and how to do it in more detail please?
Alexander (Geretrudis)
Alexander (Geretrudis)
Max (Faizal)
Tags: How to bet on Ural rear wheel from the carWheel modification.
Jun 15 2014 - a wheel from a car to the Urals - Chassis - Moto forum Ural ... who knows how to put a wheel from a car instead of a rear wheel to the Urals? tell me please ..... And I like on my rear wheel from the TAZ. What gearbox to install? - Gearbox - Moto...
The way to put a wide wheel on the Dnieper or the Urals is a welded wheel. ... Just keep in mind that the smaller the rear wheel, the smaller it will be ...
OPPOSIT-TUNING, URAL-DNEPR | Topic author: ☠Antokha)))☠
throw off a photo of how to make a rear wheel from a car on a Ural motorcycle
Vitaliy (Nike) Take a dokatka from a foreign car and do it, there are 16" for dismantling, though they ask a lot, I didn’t take it for two rubles, I still have to try to bargain, a year has passed, maybe the traders are ripe.
Sukhanov (Rhette) We sell dokatki for a ruble more than once
Vitaliy (Nike) During our disassembly, they offered me a dokatka with an Audi with tires that had never been put on a car for two pieces, I tried to bargain, I tell them that the rubber is already 25 years old, that I don’t even need it the size is not mine, they rested, they say that take a new one without bargaining. Well, you have to be the last fool to take one.
Sukhanov (Rhette) I was somehow riding on a melt with a friend, he opened the trunk and there is a dokatka, I give it to him as a joke, I’ll make a wheel in the Urals, it’s not a pity to take it
Vitaliy (Nike) What the hell is the ballast to carry? Better full-size, no need to change.
Sergey (Sonoko) Vitaly, and you wouldn't need new tires from the dokatka. As a rule, on the dokatka there is not a tire as such at all, but simply rubber that does not inflate, and there is not even a nipple! And even if it pumps up, it’s so rough and thick-walled that it doesn’t slip even under the weight of a loaded car, and even on a mote in general. You will ride like a cart with wooden wheels.
Sukhanov (Rhette) I’m doing tubeless and soft there from the dock, the only minus I don’t like is the tread
Vitaly (Nike) I know, there's not even a nipple. I immediately told him, take the rubber, and I’ll take the dokatka, but he didn’t agree, I would have taken it for a piece, and so he went to hell, no one needs his wheel, only we are fools.
Sergey (Sonoko) Aleksey, I have a KIA Cerato, and she also has a dokatka, and so, I argue that rubber from her will definitely not go on a motorcycle. Well, if of course someone has a desire to kill himself, then the flag in hand!
Andrey (Iseabail) Have you ever seen a dokatka? !)))))))))))))
Sukhanov (Rhette)
We make a wide rear wheel ourselves - MY MOTORCYCLE
17 Sept. 2014 - A wide rear wheel on a motorcycle is not a curiosity in our time. ... part of the "iron" hub "Ural" without brake drum With...
How to put a wheel from a car to the Urals :: installing a wide ...
Ural motorcycle owners often think about whether to put the rear wheel bigger size, for example, from a car.
When driving, the front wheels move to the right or left. What happens to the rear wheels? They move in parallel and do not turn anywhere. But there is one exception. Some vehicles use rear wheel steering.
They were invented for better handling of the car in corners or when turning in a very tight lane. The principle of operation of the rear thrusters is that when you turn the front wheels all the way to the right, the rear wheels, on the contrary, move to the left.
This helps a lot with a limited turn of the car in a fairly narrow place. But the deflection angle rear wheels not great, it can reach a maximum value of three degrees. But even this is enough to reduce the turning angle of the car by about 0.6 - 0.8 meters.
During urban driving, the rear wheels also turn in the opposite direction from the front wheels, but at an angle of 1-2 degrees. But at a vehicle speed of more than 60 km / h, the rear wheels turn in the same direction as the front wheels. This allows the car to describe the curves of the road a little better.
The principle of operation of the rear thrusters of the car very simple. An electric motor is located on the rear subframe of the car, which, by means of steering rods, drives the rear wheel hubs. The electric motor receives a signal from the control unit, where all the information is supplied. Information comes from steering wheel position sensors, vehicle wheel speed and accelerometers, which are able to distinguish between oversteer or understeer of the car.
4ws or 4 turning wheels
A punctured wheel is usually indicated extraneous noise outside, as well as loss of speed and deterioration in handling. If the car pulls to the side, and in order to keep it on the road, you have to make an effort, then most likely a puncture on one of the front wheels. If it starts to enter back car, that's where the problem is.
When this happens, you will understand exactly what it is. Don't panic by any means. Align the car and, gradually reducing speed, pull over to the side of the road.
How to change a wheel
1. Park on the side of the road
You can’t continue driving with a punctured tire, but it’s also not a good idea to stop in the middle of the road. Therefore, do not be afraid to drive a couple of tens of meters and choose a flat, dry place on the side of the road.
Drivers of cars with mechanical box gears, it is imperative to turn on the first gear, and the owners of the automation must move the lever to the parking position (P).
And in any case, you need to put the car on the handbrake.
2. Install the warning triangle and prepare the tools
Parking the car in safe place don't forget to enable alarm and set a sign emergency stop which is in the trunk. IN settlements it is placed 20 meters behind the car, and on the highway - 40 meters.
In the same place, in the trunk, find a spare wheel and a jack with a wheelbrace. Usually the manufacturer places all this in a special niche under the floor, which can be reached by lifting the bottom panel.
It is good if you have a pump and a pressure gauge with you to check the pressure, as well as wheel chocks. And, of course, gloves will not interfere, since you still have to get your hands a little dirty.
3. Remove the wheel
After taking out all the tools and spare tire, lay them out next to the punctured tire and ask all passengers to get out of the car. Even if it's outside or pouring rain, safety comes first.
Despite the handbrake and the gear engaged, before installing the jack, you must additionally fix the wheels with stops. For them, however, any stones or pieces of brick will do.
If you need to replace the rear wheel, the stops are placed on both sides of the front wheels, and vice versa.
Now you can start removing the wheel. First, free the disk from plastic cap and use the wheelbrace to loosen the bolts. To move them, you need great effort, which can be provided with the weight of your body by simply pressing on the key with your foot. It is not necessary to completely unscrew the bolts: it is enough to unscrew them one turn.
After that, you need to raise the car with a jack. In no case should you install it anywhere. Especially for these purposes, there are small reinforced places on the bottom, which are usually located behind front wheel or just before the rear. The manufacturer designates them using triangles or cutouts at the bottom of the thresholds. If weld closed with plastic pads, they will be interrupted at the jacking points.
Move the jack under the bottom and start turning its handle clockwise. Be sure to make sure that the jack rises evenly, does not heel.
If, under the weight of the machine, the lower leg of the jack goes into the ground, you need to put something like a piece of board or brick under it.
Don't raise the wheel too much. It is enough to stop 5 cm from the ground. After that, you can completely unscrew the bolts and remove the punctured wheel from the hub. It is better to slide it under the car as insurance, and put the bolts somewhere on a rag so that they are not lost.
4. Install and check the spare tire
It remains to put a spare tire instead of a punctured wheel. To do this, align the holes on the disc with the holes in the hub, put the wheel on and screw on the bolts, completely wrapping them by hand.
It is important to install the nuts that fasten the wheels to the hub with the semicircular side towards the disk, and not out.
Remove the punctured wheel from under the car, lower the jack and finally tighten the bolts. You need to do it right. On wheels with four or six holes, opposite bolts are tightened in pairs. If there are five holes, then you need to pull in this order, as if you are drawing a five-pointed star.
It remains to assemble the tool, remove the jack and stops, and also check the pressure in the installed wheel and, if necessary, pump it up. If the pump is not at hand, you can ask for help from passing drivers.
If you use a small-sized spare tire, the so-called dokatka, then do not forget about caution: you can usually drive on it at a speed of no more than 80 km / h and for a distance of a maximum of 100 kilometers.
And, of course, try to fix a punctured wheel as soon as possible in a specialized tire shop, so as not to tempt fate and not drive without a spare wheel.
When drivers drive ordinary car, they turn steering wheel, and following this movement, the front wheels change their direction - while the rear wheels are constantly pointing straight ahead.
Takova standard system, called "two-wheel steering" or, for short, 2 WS. However, some firms now produce cars with four-wheel steering (4 WS). 4WS systems different firms differ from each other, but in most of them the rear wheels turn in the same direction as the front wheels if the car makes a turn on high speed. At low speeds, the direction of rotation of the rear wheels at 4 KR is opposite to the direction of rotation of the front wheels. This feature allows, in particular, to make sharper turns, which is useful when driving in the city or when parking in tight spaces. Road tests of 4 WS systems showed that similar systems provide more security movement. But still four-wheel steering has not yet been widely adopted. Due to the fact that the cost of the 4 WS system, according to drivers, does not justify the benefits obtained with its help.
Two wheels versus four
In 2 CR cars (bottom left), only the front wheels turn. If the car changes the direction of movement 4 KR, then all four wheels (on the right) can turn.
How 4 CR's turn the wheels
Let's say two cars: 2 CR (blue) and 4 CR (yellow in the figure above the text) start from one place (green) to make a slow sharp turn. Thanks to the steering of the rear wheels, the 4 KP turns tighter than the 2 KP and therefore requires less room to turn.
If these two cars make a smooth wide turn (as shown in the right figure), then all the wheels of car 4 KR go, as they say, rut to rut, and thus provide more reliable grip wheels with the road surface.
Lane change
If the driver changes lanes on the freeway, then the 2nd KR of the car shows a "fishtail effect": its rear end skids, because the rear wheels tend to go in the old direction. To correct this situation, the driver has to turn the steering wheel twice before changing lanes and twice after changing lanes. The 4 CR of the car does not have the fishtail effect.
Steering wheel and 4 WS system
sensitive sensors in the CR 4 system monitor how far the steering wheel, and therefore the front wheels, are turned at any given time (red line in the figure). When the steering angle is small (first two columns), the 4KP system keeps the rear wheels straight or turns slightly in the direction of the front wheels. In tighter turns - when the steering wheel makes more than one full turn (fourth column) - the CR 4 system steers the rear wheels in the opposite direction.
When Japanese cars were considered the most advanced, legends reported that in the Land of the Rising Sun there are cars that turn all four wheels. Then, in the hustle and bustle of new things, those times were somehow forgotten. The turbulent beginning of the nineties passed, and in serial production only the most necessary of the technical solutions of that time remained. But now interest in fully controlled chassis is growing again, however, already on a different scale. technical level, without additional steering shafts and with a noticeably simplified rear suspension.
And it would be okay only on a Porsche 911 GT3 or Lamborghini Aventador- but on regular Renault Espace is also introducing swiveling rear wheels. What is the meaning of such technical solution, and why did manufacturers go to such difficulties? And why was technology forgotten until recently?
Why management is needed
Handling tuning has always been considered a very difficult job, and cars with perfect balance were among the best. Chassis modern machines, at first glance, little has changed in comparison with the eighties, but there is a difference. And it shows itself very well when you look at the speeds achieved by the cars on the “rearrangement” maneuver or on the race track.
Modern family hatchback able to outrun most of the supercars of thirty years ago on the circuit, and not in last turn due to fine tuning of handling and excellent "tenacity" of the chassis. Of course, both rubber and the elasticity of motors also play a role, but now let's talk about geometry first.
No, it's not about a school subject at all - I'm talking about chassis geometry. This is a set of parameters that describe changes in the position of the elements of the chassis when the load changes. The essence of the trick is that when cornering, the car leans, and the road has its own profile. With the correct calculation of the parameters of the geometry of the chassis, the tires always have optimal contact with the road for the given conditions.
This is not about maximum downforce, but about the ratio of the coefficient of adhesion of the wheels of the front and rear axle, right and left wheels, and the ability of the wheel to perceive the load in three directions at any given moment.
The task of increasing the area of contact of the wheels with the road is not as simple as it seems.
Of course, you can "clamp" the suspension and make the movement less. This is useful in many ways, and is often done, but moving can be used for a good cause. For example, so that the wheels turn themselves in a turn. If it is difficult to calculate the movements, then you can play along a little by putting steering and on the rear axle, creating a fully controlled car.
And you can set the movement using a sophisticated suspension - for example, a multi-link, which allows you to adjust the geometry of the wheel movement in a very wide range and maintain these parameters when the elements are worn for a long time.
Articles / Practice
I shook your suspension arm: how to diagnose the chassis
Why is diagnostics needed? Let's start with simple question: why sometimes you need to check the suspension? The first case is a textbook one. That is, something below knocks, clanks, clicks, and sometimes it rumbles and gives into the steering wheel and fifth ...
44704 4 29 09.01.2017
If you are not a racer, this does not mean that handling is not important to you. It's just that in your case, this term means a completely different set of preferred parameters than ideal accuracy and speed of reactions. Actually, active safety a car largely depends on its handling, and therefore car designers work hard and productively on these parameters. What does this have to do with chassis geometry?
How the car turns
It would seem, what is simpler: he turned the front wheels - and the car turned. But in practice, everything is much more complicated. For starters, even standing car not only the front wheels will turn. Since the front suspension has a castor angle, the front wheels will rise each to its own height when turning. How much depends on the width and hardness of the rubber, suspension geometry, and so on.
As a result, the car will receive some roll, depending on the height of the roll center of the front and rear suspensions and the position of the center of gravity at that moment. Rear wheels or even solid rear axle they will also turn - simply due to the fact that with any change in the position of the body, the wheels do not just go up and down, but also turn a little, but turn.
In dynamics, this heap of parameters will be supplemented by a heeling moment from the center of mass of the car and rubber slips. Among all the parameters that need to be calculated, for us the instantaneous center of rotation and the turning radii of the front and rear axles and the center of mass will be of greatest importance. The instantaneous center of rotation does not at all coincide with the geometric one, which is calculated according to the Ackermann rule - the point at which the centers of the rolling circles of all wheels are located. Moreover, such a point simply does not exist in dynamics due to slips. But in the figures, for example, more simple situation so as not to cause confusion.
At first glance, if you turn the rear wheels in the opposite direction from the front, then the turning radius of the car decreases. This is important in terms of ease of use and maneuverability. The smaller the radius, the better. But cars don't just drive at forklift speeds. mall so other factors have to be taken into account.
But what if you turn the wheels in the same direction as the front? At first glance, this is nonsense: the car will “go sideways” along large radius if the rear wheels are turned at a smaller angle than the front ones. On my own larger radius turn means that there will be less redistribution of loads between the right and left wheels, which means better grip wheels with the road and comfort.
But it seems that the same can be achieved by simply turning the steering wheel at a smaller angle? You can even do this automatically - fortunately, variable-pitch steering mechanisms are now not uncommon. But when the rear wheels are turned in the direction of the turn, the rear axle slip angle also decreases, and hence the tendency to oversteer. If it’s quite simple, the car becomes more resistant to skidding. On high speeds this is extremely important.
A similar effect could be obtained by simply increasing the wheelbase. But the dimensions of the machines are limited - but by changing the angle of rotation of the rear wheels, you can get what you want without increasing the dimensions. And for a short-wheelbase car, this is just a salvation: you can maintain the combination of stability on the road, characteristic of big machines without giving up good cornering.
Not only management
For stability on the road, the rear wheel in a turn should turn in the direction of turning the front, and for better maneuverability - in the opposite direction. If there are no particular difficulties with maneuverability, then you can use the features of the car’s movement in a turn to turn the wheels. For example, the presence of a roll. When compressed, the suspension will turn the wheel, and we will get what we want.
Articles / History
Softness and stiffness of the suspension - what is more important for comfort?
Suspension specialists have many interesting examples to share, but I will have to limit myself to a brief story about why stiffer is not always grippy, and softer is not always...
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But there are two problems here. Firstly, the suspension reacts in the same way to changes in load, but I would like the handling to be less dependent on the load and more on the actual roll and lateral forces. Secondly, on rear wheel drive cars ah, it's very tempting to tie the rotation of the wheels to the thrust vector.
If we complicate the suspension by introducing levers that act on the wheel alignment angles under a certain load, then we will get a multi-link suspension. Yes, the one that appeared on the Mercedes W201 and is now used on most C-class cars and above. And not only on the rear axle, but also on the front.
It was the multi-link suspension that made it possible to obtain the same effect as the forced rotation of the rear axle, and to abandon the use of complex forced rotation systems for a quarter of a century. The system of levers in such a suspension sets a complex trajectory of the wheel movement depending on the longitudinal, transverse and vertical loads.
You can fine-tune the geometry of the chassis, taking into account how the machine will behave in the presence of significant lateral forces, with a different ratio of vertical and lateral loads. For rear-wheel drive cars, this turned out to be a serious help in the fight for better handling from the very beginning, and front-wheel drive tried on similar technologies a little later, with an increase in mass, loads and requirements for their handling.
The first all-wheel drive cars
Cars with two steered axles were not created for excellent handling at all. Such cars did not drive at high speed on the highway at all, because they were all-terrain vehicles. For example, the famous Unimog - universal chassis off-road has all four steerable wheels. Of course, in order to better go off-road and maneuver in a limited space.
Japanese cars of the early 80s are not far from them in terms of design complexity. On Honda Prelude 1987 was back steering rack and a shaft connecting it to the steering wheel, and the system worked depending on the angle of rotation of the wheels. At small angles of rotation, the rear wheels turned in the same direction as the front wheels, and at large angles, in the opposite direction. Even in this form, the effect was sufficient for other Japanese manufacturers to introduce similar technology.
Only on the next generations did the rear steering rack drive become electric, and the angle of rotation also depended on the speed at which the maneuver was performed. However, they did not guess to get rid of the shafts and rails. The structures remained complex, massive, voluminous and expensive. As a result, cars with them did not gain much popularity and were sold only on the domestic market. Japanese market. In the rest of the world, multi-link suspensions have taken unconditional leadership.
Why Fully Driven Chassis Are Reappearing
The most obvious answer to this question is to reduce the price of drive mechanisms and control electronics and development of stability and safety systems. At a new technological level, they abandoned the rear steering trapezoids and racks. Multi-link suspensions provide already sufficient angle of rotation of the wheels to realize the desired effect. It remains to equip them instead of the lever responsible for turning the wheel with an active electric or hydraulic drive.
Electronics much more accurately determines what is happening in this moment with the machine, allows you to use large turning angles, and is also cheaper to set up than a complex suspension. And as an additional factor - the same improvement in understeer at low speeds. You can turn the wheels in the opposite direction and improve the maneuverability of the car on narrow streets.
I would not be surprised if such systems in soon will be massively implemented on machines from the C-class and above, and in combination with a simplified geometry rear suspension- for example, not with multi-links, but with a twisted beam. There is definitely economic sense in this, because you can get controllability, like more expensive cars, at lower cost. Yes, and one more complex and expensive wearing unit will not be “superfluous”. After all, auto manufacturers seem to have made a commitment to make the car disposable.
