What should be changed before the season in a motorcycle. Preparing your motorcycle for the new season

Preparing the motorcycle for the season will allow you to operate the bike in the new season without problems and breakdowns, after a long winter downtime. This article will describe what and how to do with the motorcycle and its parts, after its winter parking, for its further trouble-free operation. After all, during the season, when you start driving, you will no longer be up to maintenance, and even more so not to repair faults that can be prevented in advance. And how and with what help to do this will be described in this article.

You could get through the winter like this.

Most of the recommendations that I will write in this article primarily concern those motorcycle owners (especially beginners) who do not have the luxury of warm garage and who do not keep their motorcycle warm all winter, that is, at positive temperatures. And of course, for those happy owners of garages that are warm and heated all winter, some of the recommendations described below may not be useful in practice, but I still hope they will be useful for general information.

And so, what will be useful for novice motorcyclists (experienced ones already know) to pay attention to in advance, even before the first spring trip. Of course, I understand that the first warm spring sunbeams and the sound of a running engine excite the blood in your veins, and adrenaline rushes over the edge.

But still, I advise you not to rush to press the cherished and quivering engine start button (or kickstarter), but to pull yourself together. And then slowly inspect your bike and put it in order, as will be described below. This will allow you to easily meet and spend new season on the roads of the country and avoid the risk of spending the opening of the season in the garage, with a wrench in hand. And so, let's go - what you should pay attention to when inspecting your bike.

But it's still much better this way!

Wiring

Most ordinary motorcyclists do not have such a blessing as a garage that is warm and heated all winter and store their motorcycles in an unheated and damp room. Therefore, after winter parking, before the first spring ride, you should definitely carefully inspect the bike and identify places where moisture has been exposed. First you need to check the wiring of the motorcycle, whether its terminals are oxidized, which can cause problems with starting the engine, or the failure of some consumers.

Even if it’s not a failure, then there will definitely be a loss of current at the oxidized terminals, and this loss (from the transition resistance of oxides) can be more than 1 volt. In general, in order to prevent such problems, it is very advisable to take care in advance and competently prepare your bike for winter downtime in the fall. And how to do this and with the help of what useful preparations - I wrote about this in detail in a separate article about the preservation of a motorcycle for the winter -.

Oxidized terminals should be cleaned with the finest sandpaper and lubricated with a special spray that prevents corrosion of the terminals (the spray is described in the article about motorcycle conservation - link a little higher). It is very desirable to clean and treat with an anti-corrosion spray the pole pieces (pins) of the source itself direct current i.e. battery. This will allow the battery to briskly spin the electric starter at startup and fully give off energy, without losses from the transient resistance that occurs when oxides appear.

Brake fluid.

After you put the wiring (terminals) in order, I strongly advise you to replace all the old operating fluids on your motorcycle with new ones. Especially it concerns brake fluid, which is quite hygroscopic, that is, it is able to be saturated with moisture from the air. And as the brake fluid is saturated with moisture, its boiling point drops significantly, which can lead to sad consequences. In addition, the moisture present in the brake fluid contributes to the corrosion of the walls of the main brake cylinders and working brake cylinders in brake calipers. And this can lead to jamming of the pistons in the cylinders and to failure of the brakes.

caliper piston up to restoration work and after.

If moisture gets into brake system, which is easy to detect by jamming the brakes (the caliper piston does not return back) or visually by corrosion of the cylinders, then it is imperative to flush the brake system of the bike with ethyl alcohol or clean brake fluid, then restore the brake cylinders and fill the system with fresh brake fluid. How to tidy up master cylinder I described and here, but how to correctly restore brake calipers described in ).

In general, it is supposed to change the brake fluid every two years (every two seasons). But if you store your bike in an unheated, damp area, then it is advisable to change the brake system before the start of each season.

After all, a motorcycle requires very little brake fluid, but you will be sure of the reliability of the brakes, especially for amateurs. high speeds and sportbike owners. I also advise such motorcyclists to install reinforced brake hoses, which it is already possible to buy by the footage and assemble it yourself (more on this). Well, at the first spring departure, before annealing to the fullest, first check the effectiveness of the brakes.

Engine oil.

I also advise you not to look at the mileage and general recommendations manufacturers about the timing of changing engine oil. All recommended oil change intervals are based on operating and storing motorcycles in normal conditions, at positive temperature. Well, most bikes are stored in winter in cold and damp garages.

Under such conditions, in the crankcase of the engine or gearbox (as in any metal vessel, as well as in a half-empty gas tank), condensate accumulates over the winter, flows down the walls of the crankcase and becomes saturated with moisture (in the spring, an emulsion can be found on the oil dipstick - a mixture of oil and water) . In addition, over the winter, engine oil is stratified into fractions and heavy fractions settle down, in which wear products (fine metal chips-dust) have accumulated.

During the spring first start of the engine, this substance will be the first to be captured oil pump and go to oil system engine. In the end, if they don't get killed oil channels or oil filter, then deposits will be deposited on them, which will reduce the oil pressure, and there is also a high probability rapid wear rubbing pairs of the crankshaft (necks and liners). It is also quite possible to jam small, but very important details lubrication systems - reduction, reverse and bypass valve(more on this) and then the oils in the system and oil starvation your motor is guaranteed.

Therefore, if you store your bike in a cold garage, I advise you to change the engine oil before the first start, or at least carefully examine oil dipstick. For example, before each season, I drain the old oil, regardless of the mileage of my motorcycle, and fill in fresh oil.

Fuel .

Even in autumn, before winter downtime so that condensation does not form on the walls of the gas tank, many publications and experienced drivers It is recommended to fill the tank with gasoline up to the neck. To prevent condensation from forming in empty tank and corrosion of its walls.

But it should be noted that the additives contained in any gasoline lose their properties over time. beneficial features, resins settle in gasoline, which can later clog carburetor jets, and octane number gasoline is gradually decreasing.

Therefore, in order to preserve the traction characteristics and the health of the engine (and carburetor), it is advisable to get rid of the old gasoline by draining it, and then pouring in fresh.

I already wrote about how to check the quality of gasoline at home and those who wish are reading about it.

Tires.

Carefully inspect the tires of your motorcycle and identify not only the wear of the tread, but also the condition of the sidewalls. Ideally, back in the fall, before a long winter downtime, you should hang the motorcycle on a motorcycle lift so that the tires do not touch the cold garage floor. After all, the rubber only needs a couple of stops under the pressure of the weight of the motorcycle, and a network of microcracks appears on the sidewalls, which can later lead to a rupture at high speeds. When appearing on your tires even tiny cracks, change such tires without hesitation, especially on high-speed modern sportbikes.

And to prevent damage to the sidewalls and aging (oakiness) of the rubber, store the motorcycle suspended above the floor if possible (or at least place the bike on a center stand or use it), and pre-treat the tires with special tire foam before a long downtime (it is described in the article about preservation motorcycle - link above), which will prevent tires from aging quickly.

In the spring, you just have to check the tire pressure and bring it up to the norm indicated in the manual of your bike.

Accumulator battery.

Before turning the ignition key, check the electrolyte level in the battery and, if the level is low, top up with distilled water to the correct level. Then, using a tester set to voltmeter mode, the voltage at the battery terminals. Even in the fall, it is advisable to clean and lubricate the pole pins and terminals of the wires connected to the battery with a special spray. If this was not done in the fall, do it in the spring and then check the voltage at the battery posts.

Ideally, there should be at least 12.5 volts, if less, then the battery should be recharged using. I described in detail how to choose a charger and how to properly charge the battery (more on competent battery charging).

The tester will show only an approximate value, and to be precise, you should check the density of the electrolyte (if the battery is serviceable), or check the condition of the battery more accurately using a load plug (I already wrote how to do this in an article about correct charging batteries - link to the article a little higher).

If the condition of your battery is normal, then when checking load fork, her voltmeter will show at least 11 volts, during a five-second load.

Other little things.

Next, unscrew the candles and inspect them. If the color of the spark plug electrodes is not correct (which means different colour I advise you to read the spark plug electrodes) then you may have to (or replace the air filter - about the filter a little lower), but on this moment Start by cleaning your spark plugs.

Ideally, use a sandblaster, but who doesn’t have it, you can get by with sandpaper, and I described how to properly clean the spark plugs and check them with it. If the mileage of the candles was more than 7-10 thousand km, then I advise you to replace them with new ones. After all, our domestic gasoline able to ditch pretty quickly even platinum or. Why does this happen, those who wish to find out in, which is called "Why do spark plugs fail?".

I also advise you to check the condition of the air filter, since a dirty filter element will be the culprit of the over-enrichment of the air-fuel mixture and, as a result, the spark plug electrodes will be smoked, and the engine power may drop as well as from over-depletion. In general, if your bike has been standing in a damp room all winter, I advise you to change the filter element with a new one, since the old one has probably absorbed moisture and will no longer work correctly.

The chain and stars should also be inspected, and if at least one of the sprockets has worn out over the past season, then it must be replaced, otherwise it will ruin the entire set (chain-stars). Check the condition of the chain (I described in detail how to find out when it's time to change the chain) and if the chain is worn out, then of course it must be replaced. How and with what help to correctly replace the chain on a modern imported motorcycle, I described in detail.

Accurate check chain slack and wear

Power and torque modern engines huge, and an open circuit, with a sharp opening of the gas on high speed, can lead to rather unfortunate consequences and overshadow the joy of the opening of the season.

At the end of the spring maintenance, it remains to restore the external gloss: do not be lazy and restore with shine hinged parts your bike, as well as chrome and aluminum parts. It also does not hurt (or headlights). In addition to looking great and making your bike look good on you and others, you will also be more visible on the road, which can be very important, especially in the spring.

And finally, one more advice on the topic of safety: before unscrewing the throttle to the full, ride for several hours (and for some beginners even several days) first in a quiet mode - after all, during the winter you have lost the habit of the bike and your motor functions at the first departure are far from the same as in the high season.

And it should also be remembered that motorists, for long winter months, have grown accustomed to the presence and proximity of motorcyclists on the roads, so be careful and try to notify in advance of possible maneuvers. For safety reasons, no matter what many skeptics say, it’s good that it will help to attract attention in dense city traffic, as well as xenon (I described how to install xenon on a motorcycle

Remember that it is the visibility of a motorcyclist on the road that contributes to his safety. Oh, and be respectful of the other members. traffic and I hope you will reciprocate, good luck to everyone on the road and a pleasant opening of the season!

The next motorcycle season is coming to an end - the freaky rides around the city, bone-breaking forays into the forest and long-distance voyages are left behind. It remains to prepare for the next season, namely the conservation of the motorcycle for the winter - we will describe its intricacies in detail in this material.

So, let's start with an undeniable statement in this regard: if you leave the motorcycle for the winter without completing a series of preparatory operations, there is a risk not only to experience difficulties with starting the engine in the spring, but also to get into a very expensive repair.

Choosing a wintering site

It is obvious that the courtyard of the house is far from ideal, and it is better to take care of a heated, and even better, a guarded parking lot in advance. If there is none, then an ordinary cold garage will do. The key point is that it is important that it is ventilated, with good ventilation, not damp.

Immediately before putting the motorcycle in the garage, for storage until spring, it is necessary to wash it very carefully. It’s better not to be lazy and do it yourself, the capital’s car washers will do it “within tolerance”, but you should do it to the “perfect” state. It is necessary to thoroughly clean the chrome parts from bituminous stains, and the spokes, wheel rims from rust and other contaminants, which by spring can pretty much spoil the appearance of the bike. After washing, it is necessary to dry the motorcycle properly. There are two options: either blow through all hard-to-reach places with a compressor, or, if the weather is still dry, you can properly ride a motorcycle at high speed - under the influence of the oncoming air flow and the high temperature of the running engine, the remaining water will evaporate by itself. We prefer the second method.

So, the bike is clean, dry and already in the garage, where he will spend the whole winter. Let's get started.

Disassembly and lubrication

First you need to disconnect the terminals and remove the battery. Treat power wires and wiring with a moisture-displacing agent (WD-40) or silicone - this will protect them from oxidation. The battery itself is best taken home and periodically perform a discharge-charge cycle. The next step is a thorough cleaning and lubrication of the drive chain. Here, perhaps, we will do without detailed comments, hoping that you did this at least every thousand kilometers during the season. Next, you need to pour pre-prepared gasoline from a proven gas station into the gas tank “under the neck”. In such a way that as little air as possible remains under its cover. It will not be superfluous to use a fuel stabilizer or medical alcohol - it will bind gasoline and water, one way or another that got into the gas tank during operation. This is all done so that the walls of the gas tank do not rust from the inside. Probably, it is not necessary to tell what the rust that has accumulated in the gas tank for years will do to the carburetor or nozzles.

Discharge and charge cycle especially relevant for owners of new motorcycles, since most often they use lithium-polymer batteries, the complete discharge of which permanently disables them.

After completing these, in general, simple procedures, you have to do the most important thing. To do this, you need some engine oil and a syringe. So, we turn out the candle, draw 5–20 ml of engine oil into the syringe and inject it into the cylinder through the candle hole. It is important to take into account the amount of oil to be poured: for example, if you have a motorcycle with a single-cylinder 500 cc engine, for example Yamaha SR500, then you will have to pour 15 ml, and if, for example, a 500 cc V8 Moto Guzzi, then the total dose of the conditional 20 ml should be distribute in equal shares in each of the eight cylinders. In order for the poured oil to reach the target, that is, to get into the gap between the piston rings and the piston, you need to turn the crankshaft with an electric starter or with a kick. After that, the candles can be screwed back. By the time the candle fussing is over, the beer supply has almost certainly come to an end - it's time to call a friend and ask for more. In fact, the bottom line is that his assistance will be required to perform the final stage of conservation of the patient.

This is all done so that the piston rings do not stick tightly to the piston during the winter and do not have to drag themselves to the service in search of compression.

Lubrication of rubber elements

Now is the time to lubricate the main rubber parts. First of all, we are talking about oil seals, anthers and cuffs of the fork and shock absorbers, which, under the influence of frost, can lose silica and crack. This threatens with immediate failure of the fork and shock absorber, respectively. And if the output of the shock absorber can not be immediately noticed, then the consequences of leaking oil from the fork, which will inevitably fall on brake discs and pads, you'll notice the first time you try to stop. So, armed with a silicone spray, you should carefully lubricate the above parts, as well as the carburetor pipe, steering vibration dampers, if any; brake hoses, rubber dampers of the driven star; cuffs of the main brake cylinders, as well as clutch cylinders. By by and large, it is necessary to lubricate all rubber, except for tires, the preparation for wintering of which can be limited by lowering the pressure by half of the working one (usually up to 1 bar).

Polishing

After that, almost 100% of the surface of the motorcycle will be completely dry. It's time to start polishing. Wings, gas tank, fairings - everything that is varnished and can become cloudy over the winter needs to be polished. Can be completely dispensed with polishing machine by inviting, for example, your friend. While alone in a circular motion with a sponge, he applies a thin layer of polish to the surface of the motorcycle parts, the other carefully polishes it with a cloth. In the specialized store you will find all kinds of sets for shallow polishing. The process is exhausting, but rewarding - in the spring you come to the garage, wipe the motorcycle with a damp cloth, and it is like new.

Package

The final touch is a piece of cotton fabric in the muffler to protect the engine cylinder from moisture, and a cover. With him, too, not everything is so simple. We recommend using special motorcycle storage cases made of linen or cotton. We advise you to avoid cheap samples made of synthetics and polyethylene. The key parameter is ventilation.

We recommend changing the engine oil and oil filter with the advent of the new season. Whereas it is worth taking care of the state of the coolant before the onset of frost - because of the risk of freezing in the system, which will inevitably lead to failure of the cooling system hoses, water pump or, even worse, the engine block.

A number of these, in general, simple operations will significantly save on the services of motorcycle services for preparing a motorcycle for wintering, as well as protect equipment from unforeseen repairs before the onset of warm days in the new season.

Text: Adel Shangaraev

Easy Ways to Get Your Motorcycle Ready for the New Season
To provide stable operation bike before each new season must be carried out complete diagnostics your pet and fix the identified problems. In addition, preparing the motorcycle for the season includes battery charging, checking the operation of current collectors.

Winter idle motorcycle contributes to the appearance of corrosion on the contacts. To get rid of rust, clean all terminals and wires by lubricating them with a special liquid.

What happens if you operate the bike without preparation?
Many owners, having seen the sun and dry asphalt outside the window, roll their motorcycle out into the street and, after a long period, squeeze all the strength out of the bike. Reaching high speed, starts knocking in the engine, loss of oil, firing in the muffler and other problems. This happens due to downtime and unpreparedness. So it turns out that instead of the joy of the trip, the owners are engaged in repairing faults. If you do not want to spend most of the summer in the garage, carry out preparatory work in advance.

Easy Ways to Prepare

So, how to prepare a motorcycle for the season of warm nights and dry asphalt? In case you have a budget, it is best to give the bike to service center. They will conduct a full diagnostics and check the engine and gearbox on a dyno. Identified malfunctions are best replaced in early spring.

Before each new season, it is worth holding:

• checking the motor on a dyno;
• replacement of spark plugs;
• replacement of the air filter;
• replacement of oil and filters in the engine;
• cleaning and adjusting the carburetor (for carburetor engines).

Every two seasons, in no case do not forget to replace:

1. brake fluid, followed by pumping the brakes;
2. brake pads;
3. antifreeze.

There is also a regulation on operation, which prescribes the replacement of certain parts and consumables upon reaching a certain mileage. Study this list carefully.

Basic problems

After a long rest, breakdowns may occur in the mechanisms of the device. So, for example, very common problem is a telescopic fork. Already during the first trip, the seals may break. This is due to their sticking to pipes and plugs. To eliminate this problem, it is necessary to thoroughly lubricate all lip seals with anti-corrosion agents before operation.

Also check the tire pressure. A long stay in the garage has certainly served to deflate the tires, especially if they are tubeless. At the same time, we must not forget about the integrity of the rubber. Check the tread for cracks and cuts. Such defects can cause a rupture at the moment of movement.

Switching the motorcycle from summer to winter mode

In the event of a cold season, most owners cover the chrome parts of their pets with petroleum jelly and add oil to the cylinders to prevent parts from rusting. However, what to do for those who use a motorcycle even in the cold season?

First of all, operation in winter time quickly drains the battery, so you need to charge it as often as possible. It is best to charge at medium current for a long time. Also, before use, replace Consumables on the:

• winter type oil in the gearbox and engine;
• low temperature brake lubricant;
• increased density of battery electrolytes;
• winter tires with studs.

Now demi-season oil is most often used, which is suitable for both summer and winter period. If you use just such, then its replacement is optional.
Also remember to remove water from all parts of the motorcycle. For example, a significant amount of liquid often accumulates in a fuel tank. If it is not removed before the trip, there will be a great risk of freezing the fuel hose and clogging the fuel supply to the combustion chamber.

These are the main ways to prepare the bike for the new season. Compliance will help ensure correct operation and the long life of the motorcycle.

Gather all the necessary tools. You will need: clean rags, spark plug wrench, new engine oil, new oil filter, oiler to run the oil into the cylinders, chain lube if you have chain drive, fuel stabilizer, WD-40 can, motorcycle cover, kitchen film, rubber bands, rubber gloves, car wax. Well, and most importantly, this is the place where you are going to leave the motorcycle for the winter. Avoid proximity to sources of moisture and chemical fumes. A dry, heated garage would be ideal.

Wash your motorcycle thoroughly. Take advantage detergent. Remove road dust and insects from the motorcycle to protect paintwork. Be careful not to pour water into the muffler pipe. If the inside of the muffler gets wet and does not dry out in a short time, the metal inside the muffler will start to rot. Also, moisture should be avoided air filter. If the filter is wet, air will not pass through it and the motorcycle will be difficult to start. Dry thoroughly with a suede cloth. Polish all metal parts with a special polish. Finally, apply car wax to all painted parts. Clean the chain. Coat all metal parts with WD-40 and lube the chain.

Add to fuel tank fuel stabilizer. Pour full tank gasoline. When the fuel sits for a long time, volatile substances evaporate from it, and oily and sticky components remain in the sediment, they can clog fuel system. Start the engine to allow stabilized fuel to enter the carburetor, then shut off the engine and allow it to cool.

If your motorcycle carbureted engine, drain the float chamber. Disconnect the fuel line and drain the fuel from the carburetor. Check the manual for the location of the drain bolts. If your motorcycle injection engine, then you have nothing to merge.

When the engine is cool, you can start changing the oil and filter. During long-term storage, engine oil changes are taking place. Old oil may show acid properties which will lead to wear of engine parts.

Using an oil can, apply some oil to the front fork legs. Sit on the motorcycle and rock it so that the oil spreads over your legs and gets inside the forks. Thus, you protect the seals and other rubber parts from drying out, and the legs from corrosion.

Disconnect high voltage wires and carefully remove the spark plugs. Using an oil can, pour some oil into the cylinders. Pour about one cubic centimeter of oil into each cylinder. Completely disconnect the high voltage wires, and then turn the engine with a starter so that the oil spreads over the cylinders. Hold your head so that the oil from the spark plug holes does not get on your face. Clean the spark plugs and reinstall them. Install high voltage wires.

It's a good idea to remove the battery. Some batteries require charging with a smart charger every 4 weeks. Sulfate deposits on the plates of the battery, during long-term storage, can damage it. A thin layer of Vaseline on the terminals can prevent corrosion. These procedures will help you start your motorcycle easily in the spring and avoid the cost of a new battery.

If your motorcycle has a liquid cooling check the antifreeze level. Drain old antifreeze, flush the system and fill with new ones if necessary. Antifreeze should be replaced every 2 years. Do not leave the motorcycle for the winter with low level antifreeze in the system, this will lead to corrosion. Also check the levels of all other fluids.

Apply lubricant to the cables. Lubricate shock absorbers and joints. Lubricate the crankshaft if you have this type of drive. clean the air and fuel filters. Check pad wear. Replace consumables on your motorcycle.

Clean and apply a protective agent to all leather parts.

February 20, 2014

Here they go last days winter and autumn is coming. For motorcyclists, these days are especially exciting, as you need to prepare your iron horse to numerous trips starting in just a few weeks. This moment is very important, since those motorcyclists who have spent more than one season in the saddle of a motorcycle know firsthand how unpleasant it is to deal with breakdowns and malfunctions along the way, and especially if you went somewhere with friends. Everyone will have to wait for you and help with the repair, and it can not always be insignificant, and in the end, instead of carelessly traveling on the roads, you will lose a lot of time repairing your motorcycle.

While the motorcycle season has not yet arrived, there is a great opportunity to pay attention to your motorcycle and check its condition even before the start of the trips. There are all conditions for this, since it has already become warmer outside, which means that it has become quite possible to spend time in the garage in the evenings, although many motorcyclists were not stopped even by the most very coldy. But it's still worth going to the garage and getting the bike ready for the first ride. With this approach, you will definitely know that nothing will break and that very first trip will be remembered for a long time.

First of all, upon arrival at the garage, evaluate external state your motorcycle. If you prepared the motorcycle for winter and lubricated it by special means, then do not rush to remove them, as the motorcycle will be idle for some time. It is worth checking the condition of the wheels. They could lower a little during the wintering period. If so, then pump them up. Open the motorcycle gas tank and look inside. If there is gasoline, then it's already good. If not, then it should be filled, but before that, be sure to flush the tank. To avoid such a problem, we strongly recommend that you fully refuel your motorcycle before winter parking.

Now take out your battery, which was stored for the duration of the cold weather in a suitable place, and install it on the motorcycle. Turn on the headlights first. Let them work for a while, then turn on the turns, signal and other consumers. After a few minutes, all this should be turned off. This is done in order to accumulator battery woke up after a long period of inactivity. While you were playing with different lighting fixtures and other consumers, you had the opportunity to evaluate the state of charge of the battery. If it is discharged, then it is not worth tormenting it for a long time. Connect the battery to charger and give it some time to recharge. After that, you can install it on a motorcycle. Now screech all speeds, after depressing the clutch. Inspect all cables and check the brake fluid level. If you find any deviation - it is worth eliminating it.

Now it remains only to revive the motorcycle after a long downtime. Do not be surprised if the engine does not start immediately, as you need to wait until the gasoline passes along the entire path of the gas pipeline. Pull the choke and press the starter button. If your motorcycle is not equipped with an electric starter, start it with a kick starter. After the motorcycle engine starts, in no case do not squeeze “all the juice” out of it for Idling. Warm up the engine at low speed. If everything went well, then your motorcycle is ready to hit the road and delight you with its trouble-free operation.