The sewing electric drive of any industrial machine has not only a different speed control design (friction), but also a different wiring diagram, the principle of operation of the electric motor.
Household models of electric drives have low power from 40 to 110 watts, low rotation speed and asynchronous type of motor operation. In other words household electric motor does not withstand large and prolonged loads and requires periodic "respite". The sewing engine of an industrial machine can work for days without a break, without overheating and without losing speed.
If you need a machine for mass sewing, then immediately think about a good suitable drive. According to the ads, you can buy cheap used tables with engines Soviet issue. These are reliable and efficient electric drives and perhaps these are exactly what you should use. But keep in mind that they all work very noisily, and this noise cannot be eliminated by any adjustment. Therefore, we recommend purchasing immediately good drive, for example, a table and a drive that come with a Typical sewing machine. And it is precisely such a sewing electric drive that we will consider in detail in this article.
The typical electric sewing drive can be bought separately and installed on any industrial table, but it is better to purchase it as a set with the table, especially since the table itself is cheaper than the motor.
By the way, a convenient sewing table can also be bought for a household sewing machine. A comfortable spacious table, and at the same time a sewing cutting table will make your work more comfortable, which will definitely affect your mood and, accordingly, the quality of work. If there is an opportunity and you have to sew a lot, never neglect such "little things".
Even such an insignificant detail as an electric drive switch creates comfort in work and influences mood.
Motor power and mains voltage
On front side motor there is a tag where the mains voltage and motor power are indicated.
If you are going to install the machine at home or in a small studio where there is no 380 volt outlet, choose an electric motor to work from a 220 volt network.
And the engine power this example does not really matter, since the speed of the machine depends on other factors. We will talk about this a little lower.
What's happened friction drive? If you drive a car yourself, then you should know what a clutch is. So the clutch of the sewing electric drive is arranged in a similar way.
The motor rotates constantly at the same speed. When you press the pedal, the disc friction device(ferado) with textolite overlays fits the motor flywheel and interacts with it. The tighter you press the clutch disc against the flywheel of the electric motor, the better their grip and the higher the speed. Therefore, sometimes long work at a slow speed and the smell of burnt textolite appears.
Degree freewheel(without force) the drive pedal is adjusted by this thumb screw.
But with these screws, or rather two screws (with reverse side one more) adjustable brakes. Yes, exactly the brakes, almost like a car.
If you work for high speed, then after stopping the sewing machine by inertia, it will continue to rotate. Therefore, a brake is needed, which immediately stops the already unnecessary rotation. It is this screw with a locknut that regulates the degree of "sharpness" of the brake.
We did not upload a photo of the engine clutch device, an electrician should repair the engine, but you need to be able to regulate its operation with your own hands.
The height of the lift or the angle of the pedal is best adjusted here.
What determines the speed of an industrial sewing machine
The speed of an industrial sewing machine depends primarily on the number of revolutions of the electric motor. This parameter can be found on the tag or in the drive data sheet. But such details are of interest only to specialists in factory tailoring. For small manufacturers, this parameter of the engine is of secondary importance, since there is another way to adjust the speed of the industrial sewing machine.
Namely, by changing the engine pulley. The larger the pulley diameter, the higher top speed sewing machine operation.
It is not difficult to change the pulley, for this you need a key for 19 and the pulley itself, which is usually attached to the engine. But note that you will have to adjust the length of the drive belt, and in many cases it will have to be a different diameter.
Whatever was good industrial drive, even as modern, almost silent and beautiful as Typical, but it is not always needed. This applies to seamstresses. They often work at home in industrial sewing machines such as 1022 class, 97 class. By different reasons, but first of all increased noise work, they cannot use them.
To solve this problem simply and inexpensively, buy the TUR-2 electric drive and install it directly on the body of an industrial machine. We will not explain how to install, in each case you have to use your own solution. But we can advise, if necessary, instead of a plug, solder the wires as shown in the photo.
In addition, if the position of the windings is resoldered in places in such an engine, the engine will rotate in the opposite direction. This advice will come in handy when connecting an overlock to such a drive.
But all these tips are intended only for an electrician, we highly recommend that amateurs do not disassemble the engine on their own, and, moreover, change or solder anything there. There is not only a direct danger of electric shock, but also a hidden one. It shows up after a long time. From overheating of the motor windings, even in out of order sewing machine, but connected to the mains, ignition of the windings may occur.
Other brands of electric motors can also be installed on industrial machines, but we only recommend what we have tested, namely the TUR-2 electric drive.
And do not forget that the speed of the machine is noticeably reduced and you can sew on it for a short time, taking long breaks (pauses).
Sometimes it becomes necessary to disassemble the sewing machine, or rather remove the plastic case of the machine in order to gain access to some nodes. This need is very rare and occurs only when the sewing machine motor needs to be replaced or drive belt. However, to replace the electric drive, it is sometimes enough to remove only the bottom and side covers. But to eliminate the "jamming" will have to disassemble the machine completely.
In this article, you will learn how to find the cause of a malfunctioning electric drive, as well as how to replace the electric motor yourself.
Typically, power sewing problems start with the pedal, not the motor. However, we do not recommend disassembling the pedal yourself. Handle the pedal with care, do not twist the wires, do not "stand" on them with the leg of a chair and generally remember that these wires pass electricity, voltage 220 volts.
Sewing manual machine - drive device and repair
sewing manual typewriter simply indispensable when sewing thick fabrics and even leather. But the manual drive is so inconvenient that there is no desire to use it. However, this situation is easy to fix if you buy a sewing electric drive along with a pedal and a drive belt in the kit. Each electric motor has a standard mount, which allows it to be installed even on a manual sewing machine.
The foot drive of the sewing machine in our time is more likely Museum exhibit. It rattles, knocks, and the legs get tired. In addition, often the machine starts to spin in the wrong direction. How to refuse to use it if the Chaika or Podolskaya typewriter suits you perfectly? You just need to install a sewing motor. Each Seagull has a mount for it. The electric drive itself costs only twice as much as a new foot drive belt.
The zigzag attachment for a sewing machine is an ingenious device that imitates the execution of a zigzag stitch with a conventional Podolsk-type lock-stitch machine.
In this article, you will learn why a machine with a horizontal shuttle loops and how to fix this sewing stitch defect with your own hands.
The sewing machine will not sew if the handwheel friction washer is not installed correctly or bushings, etc., have rusted during long periods of storage.
Each model of a household sewing machine has its own set of legs. Detailed description using feet for Janome household sewing machines.
To work with genuine leather special tools, fixtures for installing fittings, adhesive and other applied materials.
Attention! The clutch costs 6000 rubles. (he has no motor) + two-stroke internal combustion engine 2 hp with another 5000 rubles. This means that together with the motor it costs 11,000 rubles! But if you have a motor, then you can not buy it ...
Bicycle gasoline engines have been around for about 100 years! And one of the first bicycle motors was frictional - the roller turned by the tire .... however, the tires used to be bad and the roads were worse than now, but even in those days, these bicycle motors were the most massive!
Since then, many different bike motors with a chain or belt have been invented - but anyway, all these bike motors have gone down in history, and the friction motor has been PRODUCED ALL THIS TIME - 100 YEARS, with a small upgrade every year.
The friction bike motor is the most massive in history! The cheapest of all! It is easier than others to install and the most reliable - there is simply nothing to break in it! It is easily placed on the back or front wheel! It doesn't matter if the bike has shock absorbers or not!
Included for 6000 rubles. no engine, because fits any engine with pad diameter centrifugal clutch 78 mm (such engines are found on most trimmers, lawn mowers, chainsaws, motor pumps and other common gasoline devices).
Great! you can buy suitable engine we have - two stroke motor 2 hp will cost only 5000 rubles.
The rest of the photos show the option of installing this bike motor with Honda engine GX35 (this engine can be bought from us for 15,000 rubles, i.e. the price of the Friction-2016 bike motor + Honda GX35 = 21,000 rubles)
Another feature of the Friction-2016 bike motor is that it can be installed on any device with a wheel - the final speed does not depend on the wheel diameter (if the wheel is smaller in diameter, then it makes more revs, but it travels the same path), the approximate speed is 35 km / h.
Requirements for the drive of sewing machines.
Subject: Electric drive for sewing machines.
Lecture 7
On sewing machines, the drive runs in an unusual difficult conditions when within an hour
up to 1000 machine starts. Is there another technological machine with a similar mode of operation? And the speed of the main shaft is up to 9000 min-1! Many transmissions can not withstand such speeds! Hence and special requirements to the drive:
1. Speed - the ability to provide on the main shaft of the machine (5 - 6) 10 3 min -1.
2. Must withstand up to 1000 on-off switches per hour.
3. Soft start, smooth adjustment of machine speed.
4. Drive control - pedal with a maximum pressing force on it - 60 N while standing, and sitting up to 150 N.
5. Have a high K, P, D, (it becomes too hot in the workshop from a lot of closely spaced sewing machines), conveniently located (do not interfere with the operator to sit freely), safe in operation both electrically and mechanically.
6. The cost of the e / drive should not be a subject of special discussion. (Automated electric drives have over 30 microcircuits, and its cost is equivalent to the cost of a machine head!)
In the sewing industry, three types of electric drives are mainly used, depending on the type and purpose of the technological machine:
· contactor- when by turning the switch or pressing the pedal the car immediately picks up the passport speed. No soft start or speed control required. The drive is used on low-speed, simple machines that are rarely turned off (rewinding fabric, duplicating it, etc.)
· Friction- when a pedal-controlled friction clutch is installed between a simple asynchronous electric motor and a V-belt transmission, providing smooth start and smooth speed control on the go. Today it has the widest distribution both on universal and special machines.
· automated electric drive. Allows you to program the operation of the machine, automatically perform the main and auxiliary operations of the technological cycle. Expensive and complicated, low efficiency. There is a tendency to replace it with a simple well-regulated DC motor.
Figure 5 shows a block diagram friction clutch friction electric drive of the sewing machine, on which are indicated:
1. Shaft asynchronous motor,
2. Drive disc, fixed at the end of this shaft, without ring plates, steel,
Driven disc, with ring pads on both sides made of high friction wear-resistant material.
The disk is fixed on the shaft 6 of the friction clutch.
3. Brake disc, fixed, often floating, i.e. Its plane self-aligns itself in the plane of disc 3 when in contact with it.
4. Compression spring, tends to shift shaft 6 together with disk 3 to the right until it comes into contact with disk 4.
5. Coupling shaft; a fixed fit with the left ball bearing of the sleeve 7 and a movable one with the right one.
6. Horizontally movable inner sleeve. Moves in the clutch housing to the right and left together with the shaft 6.
7. Pulley V-belt transmission, leading. On old industrial machines, two pulleys were installed - a smaller one (pos. 9 not shown) - for running in a new or old machine from a repair; a decrease in the speed of the machine by » 25% was achieved.
10. Roller in the groove of the movable sleeve.
11. Double lever.
12. Adjustable length rod.
13. Pedal start.
14. Coupling housing, consisting of two parts (division is not shown in the diagram).
15 . Promtable machine.
16. Plate, to which the clutch housing assembly is hinged from below. In the hinge - a set screw; serves to fix the coupling body in the desired position for correct tension V-belt transmission.
Materials and tools:
- Soldering Station
- wire solder 60/40 1mm
- solder clamp
- wires 10 AWG (about a meter)
- connector "bullet" 4mm ("father" - 6pcs, "mother" - 4pcs)
- stripper
- heat shrink tube 5mm-15cm, 15mm-8cm (red and black colors)
- wire cutters
- thermal gun
- copper ring 15mm - 2pcs
- insulating tape
- pliers/crimping pliers
- multimeter
Wire preparation
As you can see in the photo, I used a wire in black insulation, but you can use 50cm of red and black wires to indicate the polarity of the connection.
The wire is cut into five 10 cm segments, the ends of which are stripped on one side by 4 mm, on the other by 15 mm. Four wires (of the same color) are twisted together with 15mm ends, and then a fifth wire is connected to this twist, but going in the other direction.
A copper ring is put on the twist and crimped brain pliers or crimping pliers.
The resulting cable is checked for breaks using a multimeter, which is set to the "sound" mode, the first probe is applied to a single cable contact, and the second one is applied in turn to each of the four contacts, and in the absence of a circuit, the ring is crimped more strongly or soldered with solder until a connection is obtained between contacts.
Next, the twist is wrapped with electrical tape, and then a piece of 15x40mm heat shrink tube is put on it (red for the positive wire, black for the negative) and “shrinks” with a heat gun for better insulation.
The same operations are performed to obtain the second brain cable .
Soldering the positive cable (red)
The stripped end of a single wire of the cable is twisted and inserted into the "male" connector. Next, it is installed in the solder clamp so that the wire is horizontal and the solder hole in the connector is facing up. On the soldering station exhibited heat, since you need to warm up the connector and wire well so that the solder melts.
The heated tip of the soldering iron is placed into the socket under the solder hole, near the entry point of the 10 AWG wire, everything heats up for some time (do not touch the heated parts), and then, while still holding the soldering iron at the socket, it is fed into the solder hole solder until it flows through the wire. After that, the soldering iron is removed from the soldered parts, and they are given some time to cool.
The whole procedure is repeated for the remaining four wires of the cable and the male connectors.
After that, the soldering quality is checked with a multimeter, five pieces of 5x30mm red heat shrink tubing are cut off and put on the junction of wires and connectors, and then they are seized with a heat gun to insulate the connections.
Soldering the negative cable (black)
For the negative cable, all the same procedures are repeated as for the positive cable, only the female connectors are used, and the heat shrink tube is black.
Note: It is recommended to use 10mm heat shrink tubing to insulate all open parts of the connectors, this will avoid short circuits when connecting / disconnecting batteries to charge them.
Step 9: Toggle and Motor Cables
Materials and tools:
- Soldering Station
- wire solder 60/40 1mm
- solder clamp
- 2 meters black wire 10 AWG
- bullet connector 4mm - 4pcs each
- flat clamp "mother" 6.35mm - 2 pcs
- black heat shrink tube (5mm -3cm, 15mm - 60cm)
- red heat shrink tube (5mm - 20cm, 15mm - 4cm)
- toggle switch
- stripper
- wire cutters
- thermal gun
- insulating tape
- multimeter
Off button cable
The ends of two 50cm black 10 AWG wires are stripped 4mm of insulation and a 6.35mm flat terminal is attached to one end of each wire. Further, a “male” connector is soldered to the free end of one wire, and a “mother” connector is soldered to the other wire. And with the help of a multimeter, the quality is checked brain connections.
On the resulting terminal-wire connections, pieces of a red heat-shrink tube 5x30mm “sit down”, then the wires are connected to the terminals of the toggle switch and again the quality of the contacts and the operability of the toggle switch itself are checked with a multimeter. If the multimeter shows a gap, then it is necessary to check how tight the terminals are, this can be seen directly, and if everything is fine, then the contacts are insulated with electrical tape and a piece of 15x40mm red thermotube. After that, a large piece of black heat shrink tubing 15x400mm is cut off, put on both wires leading to the toggle switch, and “shrinked” with a heat gun to get a neat cable.
Motor cable
One of the wires on this cable can be replaced with a 10 AWG red wire to indicate polarity.
Each end of three 26cm-x 10 AWG wires is stripped 4mm, then a male connector is soldered to one end of each wire, and a female connector to the other.
Next, two pieces of 5x30mm black heat shrink tubing are cut off and the connections of one of the wires (black) are isolated with them. Two pieces of 5x30mm red thermotube are cut off and the connections of the second wire (yellow) are isolated with them. And then two more pieces of 5x40mm red heat shrink tubing are cut off and they “shrink” onto the connections of the third wire (red). And, finally, a piece of 15x200mm black thermal pipe is cut off and put on all three wires, and then “shrinks”, thereby forming a neat motor cable.
Note:
After connecting the motor, it may rotate in the wrong direction, and to fix this, it is enough to swap two wires with red insulation. And you can also immediately mark the “yellow” wire, for example, with yellow electrical tape, and in the future, when connecting the engine, you do not worry about the correctness of this connection.
For isolating all exposed connectors homemade It is recommended to use 10mm heat shrink tubing to avoid short circuit when connecting / disconnecting contacts.
Step 10: Speed Controller, Servo Tester Refinement, and Throttle Switch
Materials and tools:
- speed controller HobbyKing 85A Blue Series Brushless Speed Controller 5A SBEC
- Etronix 3 Mode Servo and ESC Tester
- "finger" throttle switch
- Soldering Station
- wire solder 60/40 1mm
- solder clamp
- "mother"-connector "bullet" 4mm - 5pcs
- black heat shrink tube 5x60mm
- red heat shrink tube 5x60mm
- stripper
- wire cutters
- thermal gun
- insulating tape
Speed controller. Battery connection side
To speed controller contacts crafts that go to the batteries, two 4mm female connectors are soldered using a solder clamp. Next, pieces of 5x30mm red and black heat shrink tubing are cut off and put on the corresponding contacts of the speed controller, and then “shrink” with a heat gun.
Speed controller. Motor connection side
Using a soldering clamp, three female connectors (three black wires) are soldered to the contacts of the speed controller going to the batteries, then one piece of 5x30mm black heat pipe and two pieces of 5x30mm red heat shrink tubing are cut off.
Note:
It is necessary to determine the motor contacts before putting heat shrink tubes on them, and when this is done, the contacts are marked with tubes and “shrink” with a heat gun.
All open places brain connectors should be insulated with a 10mm thermotube to avoid short circuits.
Refinement of the servo tester
When using a motor and a speed controller, it is necessary to adjust the throttle in some way, and often a transceiver used in radio modeling is suitable for this.
In this handicraft there is no plan to use a wireless box, it uses a servo tester connected to a thumb throttle switch.
The handle is removed from the potentiometer shaft and the shell of the servo tester is “opened”, then the potentiometer itself is soldered from the board, and a jumper is soldered between the two terminals in its place (see photo). The board is again placed in a shell and fastened with electrical tape, only 3-pin connectors are left free - one for the throttle, the other for the speed controller (see photo).
Throttle switch
To begin with, the purpose of the wires and the type of switch connector are determined brain crafts.
You need to make sure that the wires are arranged in the following order: black, red and one more of any color (see photo), it can be blue, as in the photo, or white, or something else.
You can solder them directly to the board, or you can use a 3-pin JR connector (see photo) and turn off the throttle switch if necessary.
Step 11: Friction Drive Assembly
Materials and tools:
- brushless motor C6374/08 KV200
- motor support assembly
- nylon bracket
- spring
- spring tension sleeve
- wrench 8mm
- bolt M4x20 with a cylindrical head - 4 pieces
- bolt M5x20 with external thread - 2 pcs
- nut M5 - 2 pcs
- bolt M8x40 with a cylindrical head - 2 pcs
- bolt M4x8 with external thread - 2 pcs
- dry teflon bicycle lubricant
- hex wrenches 2, 2.5, 3 and 6mm (preferably with long round end)
Assembly
Assembly process brain crafts begins with screwing two M5x20 bolts into the nylon bracket so that they do not protrude into the segment cavity, but are flush with it, then M5 nuts are freely screwed onto the bolts. Then, a spring is inserted into the hole on the other side of the bracket with the short end inward (see photo).
Bicycle grease is applied to the rolling axle and it is inserted into the bracket hole from the side with the selected segment. The nylon bracket is lifted slightly over the aluminum caliper so that the long end of the spring rises above the rolling axis, this will allow the end of the spring to be inserted into the 2mm hole of the spring tension bushing, which is put on with the drilled side to the nylon bracket, and then everything is shifted back to the caliper (see photo ).
After that brainspring tensioned by rotating the sleeve ¼-1/2 turn counterclockwise until the corresponding hole in the rolling axis is found, and then the M4 bolts of the tension sleeve are tightened with a 2mm hexagon.
By means of M4x20 bolts with a cylindrical head and four holes in the caliper, the engine is attached to it, taking into account the location of its wires (see photo). It is not necessary, but at this stage it is possible to fasten the second part of the bracket with the help of M8 bolts with a cylindrical head.
Note:
Don't overtighten the spring as this can bend the end of the spring and pull it out of the 2mm hole.
Step 12: Mounting the Clutch to the Bike
Materials and tools:
- clutch assembly
- flat bar (metal ruler or long bar)
- wrench 8mm
- hexagons 2.5 and 6mm
- roulette
Friction mount on the frame
Friction homemade it is applied to the tube under the seat so that in the “inactive” position the engine is located at a distance of 10 mm from the tire and the washers of the M8 bolts are slightly tightened to be able to align the edge of the engine parallel to the wheel axis (see photo). After that, the M8 bolts are evenly tightened more than half a turn so that the clutch does not rotate on the frame tube.
Next, the engine is pulled up with a little effort until it hits the wheel. With the help of a flat bar (metal ruler), which is applied to the rolling axis and the wheel axis, the position of the engine is set so that its center “lies” on the bar (ruler) (see photo).
Having achieved this, the lower adjusting bolt, while the center of the motor shaft should be directly on the line between the axles, or slightly below it. I have found that with a properly set up position, the engine will simply rest on the tire and disengage from the wheel with minimal effort.
Finding a good mindset On the engine, tighten the adjusting bolt nut with an 8mm wrench. It may be easier to do this on the other side of the bike and with the engine pulled out, this little trick will make it easier to "throw" the wrench. (I believe that in the support of the next craft, you will need to mill the corresponding section).
After that, the position of the engine is set to "inactive" mode. To do this, the upper adjusting bolt is tightened until the engine “breaks away” from the tire by 5 mm, having achieved this, the bolt is fixed with a lock nut (see photo).
Note:
After the complete installation of the friction homemade you can mark its position several times by wrapping the bicycle frame with electrical tape on the top and bottom of the bracket, and focus on these marks if you need to remove the friction brainwashing.
Step 13: Connecting the Friction Drive
Materials and tools:
- clamps-screeds
- pliers/nippers
- hex keys
- throttle switch
- on/off toggle switch
- connecting cables
- modified servo tester
- battery bag (Topeak Aero Wedge Pack)
- speed controller (HobbyKing 85A Blue Series Brushless Speed Controller 5A SBEC)
- two rechargeable batteries (Turnigy 5000mAh 5S 20C Lipo Pack)
Connecting cables
On the handlebar of a bicycle convenient location the throttle switch is attached, and the cable coming from it is attached along the frame and under the seat with the help of cable ties (see photo).
A cable is connected to the speed controller that goes from it to the engine, and the speed controller itself is mounted on top of the battery bag, then this brain bag hung on a bicycle (see photo), the cable from the controller is connected to the engine.
The on / off toggle switch is installed under the seat, the cable coming from it is attached to the frame with clamps, then one of its wires is connected to the “red” wire on the “power side” of the speed controller (see photo). The throttle switch cable is connected to the servo tester, which is located under the seat, and the thin cable of the speed controller is connected to the back of the servo tester (see photo).
Next to two batteries homemade the appropriate cables are connected, and the batteries themselves are placed in the "battery" bag as deep as possible. The "red" positive wire coming from the batteries is connected to the on/off switch, and the "black" negative wire to the corresponding pin on the "power side" of the speed controller.
It remains only to fasten the "battery" bag and craft ready!
Basic throttle calibration with speed controller (first run)
After studying the instructions for the speed controller, the throttle is adjusted, it is necessary to ensure that the throttle switch works correctly.
For the one used in this brainwash speed controller, the first thing to do is to move the throttle switch to the “maximum” position and fix it in it, after that, by applying voltage to the system by pressing the on / off toggle switch, the speed controller will emit several short beeps, then the throttle switch is moved to the “ minimum” and is fixed in it again, before the controller gives another beep, which will mean that the calibration is completed, and after that the whole system is turned off by the on / off toggle switch. That's all there is to it.
Note:
Do not touch the throttle switch when turning on the power while the controller homemade submits sound signals unless the controller is being calibrated.
Step 14: Friction drive in action
It should be remembered that the friction drive in this version is designed only as additional element, and should not be started when not in motion, as this may damage the engine.
I activate this homemade at a speed of at least 22 km / h, while I hold the throttle switch in the middle position, or at the "maximum", but for 3-4 seconds, and then release it.
On this moment I only use two of the four Turnigy 5000mAh 5S 20C Lipo Packs in this build and they last me 19.3km on my round trip.
That's all, I hope brain-useful!
1.
Friction motor- this is a "normal" motor for a sewing machine. When you press the pedal, two clutch discs are brought together and the torque is transmitted to the pulley. Huge minus this motor is the speed control, because it occurs by slipping of the friction discs and depends on the force of pressure on the pedal. Which requires some skill and with an increase in the puncture force (on thickenings) leads to a stop of the machine.
And one more unpleasant moment of the friction motor: it is noisy, and therefore, if you are a "home" seamstress, it is likely that your neighbors will hear what you do during the days, and especially at night. =)
There are varieties of friction motors for mains voltage 220 V or 380V, as a rule, this criterion does not affect the cost.
The positive point is the availability in the price position, the friction motor is cheaper than the servo.
2.
Servo motor or servomotorrepresentsenergy-saving silent motor for industrial sewing machine, tk. the engine only runs when the car pedal is pressed - this is energy saving.
A servomotor is a motor electronic adjustment speed. The speed depends not only on the "pressure force" on the pedal. When passing through local thickenings, the speed remains constant. This is their main advantage, you can adjust the sewing speed of your machine. Plus the car will have a smooth start!
The servo motor is more powerful than the friction motor, and when it is built into the head of the machine, it is generally ideal for .
Now let's summarize the above text:
P.S. Of course, we approve and recommend the use of a servomotor, because its advantage is presented above, but there are industrial sewing machines special purpose, which, according to their parameters, are equipped only with friction motors.
