Why is the checkpoint buzzing. Hum in the gearbox: causes and possible consequences

06.04.2019

Etc.).

Moreover, gearbox repair is also a complex and expensive procedure. This is especially true when it comes to automatic transmissions, high-quality bulkhead or overhaul of the automatic transmission. For this reason, it is important not only, but also to record any signs that indicate possible problems transmissions and gearboxes.

Next, we will talk about why extraneous sounds arise and what they indicate during the operation of the gearbox, for what reasons the gearbox is buzzing, what to do if the gearbox of a mechanic or automatic howls, etc.

Read in this article

The box buzzed: the main reasons

During operation, one of the most common signs of a malfunction or breakdown is a rumble in the gearbox. At the same time, the gearbox noise or hum may differ in tone and strength, occur only in some or all gears, etc.

So, let's start with the automatic transmission. In this case, it is important to understand that the automatic transmission (variator, robotic mechanics, hydromechanical machine) is somewhat quieter than the manual transmission, and should not make obvious extraneous sounds.

If the automatic transmission is buzzing or making noise, first of all, you need to check, as well as its condition and quality. The box itself should also be inspected for possible leaks. transmission fluid.

In a situation where the unit itself is dry, everything is also in order with the oil, or it was replaced with a separately recommended ATF, in parallel, but the rumble in the box does not go away, then in without fail need diagnostics.

As a rule, this means that the box will need to be removed and disassembled for troubleshooting, and such work is expensive if it is not done on its own, that is, at a specialized car service.

Concerning common causes buzz automatic boxes, experts distinguish:

A manual transmission or automatic transmission with mileage is characterized by abrasion / damage or wear of the parts of the main pair. As a result, backlashes appear, which become a source of noise;
Gear wear means that there is strong friction in the interface area, loads increase, noise increases, the box buzzes;
If buzzing CVT variator, in some cases this is a sure sign of serious wear or malfunctions, indicating that the box will soon completely fail.
In some situations, it may not be the box itself that may buzz, but. In other words, there is play in the places where the axle shafts are attached, resulting in a strong gearbox hum.
We also add that in automatic transmissions bearings often hum and make noise, abrasion and damage to the teeth on the drive gear or on the shaft lead to backlash and hum (both in one gear and in several).

In other words, in most cases it is not possible to normally operate a car with a buzzing automatic transmission. Moreover, depending on the type of gearbox, such operation may even be unsafe, since it is possible to open the clutch of the box - a robot, problems with acceleration during overtaking, lane changes and other maneuvers.

Now let's move on to mechanical box gears. As in the case of an automatic transmission, the rumble of a manual transmission and various noises in the mechanic's box arise from different reasons. At the same time, there can be quite a lot of such reasons, starting with a lack of gear oil and ending with defects and damage to individual parts.

At the same time, it is a mistake to believe that a manual transmission is much more reliable than an automatic transmission, that is, such a transmission can be constantly subjected to loads, aggressively operate the car, etc. In fact, this unit may well buzz or fail already by 100-150 thousand km.

If we talk about repairing a manual transmission, it is much cheaper to repair a manual transmission than an automatic one. Wherein quality repair still involves the replacement of a number of elements. Also, the performance will directly depend on the qualifications of the specialists who perform the overhaul of the gearbox.

So, in the list of causes of hum in a manual transmission, we can distinguish:

Insufficient amount of lubricant. If there is little oil in the gearbox, the symptoms often manifest as the box howling and humming on overdrive(for example, the rumble of the gearbox in 5th, 6th gear).

On low gears extraneous noise may not be. As a rule, in this case, we can say that there is oil, but it is not enough. At the same time, gears and other parts of the manual transmission are subject to increased wear.

Another cause of noise is wear or defective replacement of parts of the main pair. At the same time, the box can buzz for a long time, but then the unit will finally break down.

Also, worn drive bearings lead to noise in the gearbox, which first emit a hum, after which they simply collapse after a short time. As a result, serious consequences and a significant increase in the cost of repairs can be expected.

Often the gears of the gears become the cause of the hum, and only one gearbox gear can buzz. This indicates that problems arise only with individual gears of the gear that began to buzz;
It is also possible that noise will appear after repairing the box, which is due to assembly errors (inaccurate fitting of the shaft and gears, etc.);
Also, which indicates malfunctions in the gear shift mechanism (speeds are difficult to turn on, there are problems with gear selection, gearboxes are worn out, malfunctions, etc.);

A rumble appeared in the gearbox: what should the driver do

As you can see, extraneous sounds in the form of noise, gearbox hum or crunch can appear both in automatic and in mechanical transmission. Moreover, the gearbox can suddenly hum if there is an emergency transmission oil leak.

This means that you need to inspect the unit for smudges. If leaks are visible, then leaks will need to be repaired. It is also optimal to stop further operation of the vehicle, that is (especially in the case of an automatic gearbox).

If this is not possible, then after topping up the oil, you should immediately go by car to the service, avoiding loads on the gearbox. It is not recommended to use the "stop-leak" type without urgent need.

In cases where the box is dry, but there is a hum, such a malfunction tends to progress. In other words, with mileage, the noise will only increase. In the case of automatic transmission, it is better not to delay and immediately go for diagnostics.

As for the mechanics, a box with a hum in many cases is operated further, avoiding high loads. It is important to understand that such operation in the future can lead to more serious consequences and an increase in repair costs. For example, if worn main couple, gears, synchronizers, etc., you can ride, but in this case, the loads on other parts of the box are also increased.

It turns out, best solution it becomes possible to carry out timely diagnostics in a specialized service for the repair of gearboxes when any extraneous sounds appear (hum, noise, howl or crunch of the gearbox). If necessary, experienced specialists will disassemble the box, determine the cause of the malfunction, perform troubleshooting and preliminarily draw up an estimate, which will indicate the amount of repair.

We also add that when choosing spare parts, it is better to refuse cheap taxes, that is, use only original spare parts or high quality substitutes from third party manufacturers. Only in this case, you can count on high-quality work and an acceptable gearbox resource after repair.

What exactly is making noise and why?

Let's try to understand this issue. The main causes of noise coming from the checkpoint are:

improper operation of the box, in particular the use of counterfeit transmission fluid purchased on the black market and operation vehicle with non-working clutch;
poor quality of gearbox components;
the maximum service life of the manual transmission;
unskilled holding technical work for diagnostics and repair of gearboxes.

In addition, the main malfunctions, after which noise may occur in the gearbox, are:

suddenly appeared difficult inclusion of speed: in order to engage one or another gear, the driver will sometimes need to move the gearbox lever to the neutral position several times with the clutch depressed;
the box itself turns off the transfer of the car while driving;
Transmission fluid may leak from the gearbox.

It should also be noted that the VAZ 2109 box may make noise in various conditions: on neutral speed, while shifting gears, or simply while driving at a certain speed. And each of these noises can indicate different faults in the box.

In addition, during the diagnosis, one must not forget that only one outward sign may indicate several malfunctions in the gearbox. Therefore, it is virtually impossible to visually (i.e., by the type of hum) calculate which component of the box has failed. It will be possible to determine the breakdown only by removing and disassembling the box.

It is also necessary to add that gearbox repair and elimination of defects require great knowledge, so it is better not to do this at home. The gearbox is an important unit in the structure of any vehicle, so it is better to entrust its repair and diagnostics to a qualified specialist.

Often the hum of the unit manifests itself:

when you squeeze the clutch;
when turning on the third and fourth speeds;
at neutral speed;
when driving at higher speeds.

Most of the domestic VAZ 2109 car owners face such problems. But if extraneous sounds disappear when the clutch is pressed, then this may indicate several breakdowns. In particular, the fifth speed or gear may fail. reversing. In addition, the bearing may be defective. input shaft or release bearing.

As practice shows, in the case of bearings, the problem is not critical. If noise appeared in your car, and then disappeared after several hundreds or thousands of kilometers, then, most likely, the remnants of the bearings were simply ground by the unit system.

If your "VAZ 2109" began to make noise, then this does not mean at all that the bearings or reverse gear. These problems are the most common, but only high-quality diagnostics can specifically determine what is out of order.

Eliminate noise

Consider the signs and the corresponding breakdowns of the checkpoint in the VAZ 2109

Changing the drive shaft bearing

If you decide to repair the drive shaft bearing yourself, then for this you will need a hammer, a vise, a bearing puller. Let's start repairing:

first you need to dismantle and disassemble your gearbox;
then we take the drive shaft and clamp it in a vise. Attention! The vise should be with soft metal lining;
rear bearing must be pressed with a special puller;
then turn the shaft over and press the inner race of the primary bearing in the same way;
now you need to put the rear bearing against the stop on the shaft. This is done with a metal mandrel and a hammer;
the same operation must be done with the inner ring of the front bearing.

Adding oil

If you decide to fix the noise problem by adding transmission fluid to the box, then prepare new manual transmission oil and some rags in advance:

we find the dipstick for controlling the liquid level in the box - it is located in engine compartment on the left side, next to the battery;
take out the dipstick and wipe it with a rag;
then insert the dipstick back until it stops and pull it out. The transmission fluid level should be somewhere in the middle between the "Min" and "Max" marks;
if you see that there is less oil than necessary, then take a new one and fill it through the hole to check the level to the “Max” mark.

Replacement of blocking rings

To replace the rings of the locking mechanism, perform the following steps:

remove and disassemble the gearbox;
find a blocking device;
we see blocking synchronizers on it: you need to visually assess their condition. If fragments are visible on the rings or they themselves have worked out their service life, then they must be replaced;
assemble the box back and put it in place.

If the hum in the manual transmission appeared as a result of the wear of the rings, then when they are replaced, extraneous sounds will disappear.

Synchronizer clutch replacement

Here you need to stock up on a clutch and patience in advance:

having disassembled the gearbox, you need to dismantle the output shaft synchronizer;
to get to the clutch, the synchronizer must be completely disassembled. Be careful - the details are very small and easily lost. The clutch is a small ring on the inner diameter of the synchronizer;
after disassembling the synchronizer, check all its components for mechanical damage. If the springs are too stretched, then it is also better to replace them with new ones, but you need to buy a complete repair kit in advance;
before installing the clutch in place, lubricate it, as well as all other components of the synchronizer engine oil;

clutch adjustment

Incomplete disengagement of the clutch is “treated” by adjusting it.

The "howl" of the gearbox worries car owners just like any other extraneous sound in car. The functioning of a serviceable box - oil mixing, teeth engagement, bearing operation - should not be heard while driving. Therefore, “singing” is one of the first reasons to visit the diagnostics.

As a rule, this very “singing” is caused by banal reasons:

Increasing gaps between individual parts.
Tooth wear.
Incorrect oil viscosity.

Some motorists purchase without any hesitation additives for gearboxes. They pour it in ... And they are waiting for a miraculous effect, which you will not find during the day with fire, even if you search very well.

The problem lies in the lack of knowledge of such drugs. Many of them form protective film limited period of validity, so evaluate any long-term positive effect does not seem possible.

The main danger posed by transmission additives, – corrosion and abrasive wear. This primarily concerns layered, metal-cladding additives, metal conditioners. This feature crosses out all the advantages of the above-mentioned drugs. Therefore, car owners are looking for a worthy alternative, which is friction geomodifiers. Their main advantages:

1) Possibility of in-place repair.

2) Formation on the surfaces of mechanisms of a protective, absolutely safe layer for transmission.

3) Reduced wear rate.

4) Improved friction performance.

The disadvantages of friction geomodifiers include the need to strictly comply with the requirements of the instructions, which is somewhat higher than in the case of additives, the cost. The sellers of such products claim 100% effectiveness of the compositions, although they honestly admit: with wear of more than 60–70%, nothing will help, except for a full-fledged overhaul with disassembly.

Let's consider what friction geomodifiers are using the example of RVS-Master Tr3, Tr5. Let's figure out why additives from the rumble in the checkpoint are significantly inferior to these compounds.

Finnish product received certificate of conformity with state standards of the Russian Federation. The composition is based on magnesium silicates. RVS particles do not change chemical composition oils.

Under the influence of temperature, a new crystal lattice is built on the friction surface: an exchange of Mg and Fe atoms takes place, and protective covering from cermet. This restores the nominal dimensions of the parts. Standard system friction creates an optimal secondary structure that is ideal for the given working conditions.

Unique features of RVS-Master for gearboxes

1. The effect of applying a geomodifier remains even after an oil change: the new structure continues to work.

2. The components of the product are chemically neutral, so they do not react with additives contained in the oil. It proves complete security composition use.

3. The product RVS-Master restores the geometry of the gears.

4. Wear on the contact patch of the gear wheel is compensated - up to 0.5 mm.

5. The geomodifier reduces the amount of noise and vibration, extends the life of the mechanisms, provides easy and clear switching, wear protection in the cold season.

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The VAZ 2114 gearbox is one of the key elements of the car. She is the one who can provide stable work power unit, and also help change the torque from the engine to the wheels during acceleration. With the help of the gearbox, the rotational force becomes stepping motion. What to do if the VAZ 2114 gearbox is buzzing?

The gearbox of this car includes many parts, each of which is needed to perform certain functions. Among the key parts are rotating shafts, as well as gears and transmission mechanisms.

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Additional Information. The main pair is final drive the main shaft of the gearbox. It helps in reducing the number of revolutions of the motor. The main pair is also needed to reduce speed in a ratio of 1 to 4. The standard indicator of the main pair is an index of 3.7. If you change this indicator, you can change the dynamics of the car.
The pair size determines top speed vehicle movement and acceleration. The reason for such a strong dependence is the effect on the transmission length.

Causes of malfunctions

The gearbox, like many other VAZ 2114 units, needs to be prevented. The main reasons that can lead to breakdowns or minor faults PPC, not so much. For example, if the VAZ 2114 gearbox is noisy, then one of possible causes- gear teeth.

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Over time, they wear out and become unusable. Noise from the gearbox is not a reason to panic, because even an insufficiently qualified master can repair the gearbox.

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The gearbox of this model from VAZ is a unit consisting of five steps.

Lack of oil

Another common cause of transmission noise is insufficient level oils. In order to solve this problem, you just need to add oil.

The source of noise can be worn seals and mechanisms. To fix the problem, they need to be replaced with new ones.

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In some cases, problems occur during gear shifting. Here, first you need to look at the drive rods. It is possible that they have already used up their resource and need to be replaced. After that, you need to check the reliability of the hinged mount. It will not be superfluous to look at the gearshift lever stem.

How to prevent transmission failure

Among early signs future malfunction can be noted:

The appearance of difficulties during gear shifting. It's getting harder and harder to change gear. Sometimes you have to depress the clutch and move the lever to neutral.
Transmissions are out.
Oil is leaking from the gearbox.

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Another common cause of problems during gear shifting is due to improper debugging of the shift actuator. Assembly parts often break and can also be the cause of the problem. To troubleshoot, it is necessary to correct or replace the rod as soon as possible, as well as tighten the screws. Then you can start adjusting the drive and replacing the remaining non-working parts.

On some VAZ 2114 cars, a gear reset occurs. This process happens spontaneously. The reason is wear or breakage of the teeth (end) on the coupling. Sometimes the teeth on the gears fail. A similar problem occurs due to insufficiently competent debugging of the drive. In other cases, the reason is inaccuracy during the installation of the thrust cover, which is designed to protect.

In order to correct this problem, it may be necessary to replace all defective parts. The next step is to debug the drive.

The next step is to install the cover in the required position. If an oil leak occurs, then it is necessary to install the crankcase and change any gaskets that look worn. Do not forget about the need to remove the box before repair.

Prevention measures

To prevent any damage, use only quality oil. It is it that allows you to achieve the most coordinated and accurate work of each part and each vehicle transmission unit.

In order to improve the quality of car maintenance, it is better to give preference to GL-4 category oil. The best choice- this is a mineral lubricant, but its cost may not be affordable for the owner of the VAZ 2114. In this case, you can think about purchasing semi-synthetic or synthetic oil.

Why is the VAZ 2114 gearbox buzzing

Why can there be a hum? Typically, noise problems occur on machines that are already 10 years old. This problem also applies to cars with a mileage of more than 100,000 km. main reason hum is wear and tear.

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Among other reasons for the appearance of any noise from the checkpoint are:

low-quality spare parts;
development of the service life of the main elements of the car;
incorrect operation of the vehicle;
use of low-quality gear oil;
repair by an illiterate master who spoiled something.

Troubleshooting methods

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If all the gears in the VAZ 2114 gearbox have disappeared, then this means that the problem lies in the bearings. If the damage is not fixed in time, the repair will cost even more.
Noise after starting the engine. The cause of the malfunction also lies in the bearing (drive shaft) or lack of gear oil.
The noise disappears after switching gears. The trouble lies in the synchronizer clutch. It is possible that there are problems with the locking mechanism.
Unable to completely disengage clutch. The "culprit" is the same bearing of the drive shaft.

To obtain reliable data on the condition of the car and the number of faults in the gearbox, you should trust only high-quality diagnostics. Garage masters usually do not have modern equipment, which allows you to accurately determine the cause of some malfunctions, and today you can’t do without technology.

Any gear transmission makes noise during operation. IN normal conditions its level is low and is almost completely absorbed by the walls of the gearbox housing. If the VAZ 2109 gearbox howls, then this indicates problems that have arisen in its operation.

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Why does the box howl and make noise

The main source of noisedifferent tonalityVAZ 2109 boxes become worn out or unadjusted units. Usually such malfunctions are found on cars with high mileage.

By additional features you can roughly understand which nodes are out of order. In the case when the owner is not able to accurately identify the cause of the hum, then it is better for him to contact a specialized car service.

The main reasons why the box on the VAZ 2109 rattles or makes noise are:

Reduced lubrication level. At not enough oil or its unsatisfactory condition, the gears and bearings begin to work without a lubricating film, which causes a high-frequency howl of the gearbox. Particularly susceptible to this phenomenon are a pair of gears and a fifth gear shaft located on maximum height on the level of lubricant in the manual transmission crankcase. With a significant drop in the amount of oil, all speeds begin to howl. Sometimes the sound is present only on cold box and disappears as it warms up. This is a sign of too thick a liquid that freezes when low temperatures. Very liquid oil, on the contrary, will give rise to strong howl as it warms up.
Worn drive shaft bearings. This is one of the most common causes of rustling during gearbox operation. At the same time, the box makes noise when coasting or when standing and working on Idling car.
Gear wear in the box. If the gearbox is buzzing in certain gears, then the cause should be sought in wear or chipping of gear teeth.
Faulty locking rings. These parts are installed on the side conical surfaces of the gears of the output shaft of the box. They have gaps and can rotate freely with crackers. When the ring is worn, cracks and deformations may appear on it, due to which the gears begin to switch with a bang.
Wear of the synchronizer clutch. If the synchronizer itself fails, a crackling sound appears when the gears are engaged and spontaneous knocking out of speed. To eliminate this defect, it is necessary to replace parts.
Incorrect clutch adjustment. If the setting of the mechanism does not correspond to the norm, then the disks do not turn off completely during the pedal depression to the lower position. At the same time, a crunch is observed during switching and a characteristic foreign smell is felt due to the burning of the disks.
. There is a rustling noise or rumble, but it disappears when the driver depresses the clutch pedal.

Troubleshooting

If , then the most simple repair is to check the level and change the oil in the crankcase. To eliminate all other defects, it is required to remove the box from the car and completely disassemble it. This requires a closed room, a large number of a variety of tools and experience in repairing such units.

Lack of oil

The oil level is measured by a dipstick installed in the upper part of the crankcase. A normal volume is any distance between the minimum and maximum marks on the probe shaft. On the oldest boxes that do not have an overdrive fifth gear, the amount of fluid is measured through a hole in the side, closed with a plug. The level should be at the bottom edge of this hole.

Dipstick for checking the oil level on the box VAZ 2109

To maintain the normal state of the oil, it should be changed after 75 thousand kilometers. Lubricants should be used when pouring API standard GL-4 and with a viscosity of 75W-90, 80W-85 or 80W-90. Some owners specifically pour thick oil type TM-5, which allows to reduce the noise of the box. If changing the lubricant does not correct the situation and the mechanism continues to make noise, then the problem lies in the worn parts of the gearbox.

Replacing the drive shaft bearing

Before starting to replace the bearings, the gearbox must be dismantled from the machine.

To remove the gearbox, you must:

Wash the wheel arches and underside of the car in a pressure washer and place the car on a lift. Then you need to remove the protective sheet of the crankcase and engine.
Disconnect battery from onboard network and drain the oil from the gearbox housing.
unscrew hub nuts front wheel drives and remove the wheels themselves.
Disconnect the speed drive link in the box and the ground wire going to the crankcase.
Disconnect the plug from the reversing lamp switch.
Remove ball joint mounts knuckle and remove the longitudinal stretch from the car.
Unscrew the fastening of the lower cover on the clutch housing.
Unscrew the fasteners and remove the wheel drive shafts.
Remove the starter mounting bolts and remove it from the unit.
Remove the shift link located on the top of the manual transmission.
Unscrew the four nuts securing the gearbox housing to the flywheel housing.
Remove the support with which the box is attached to the side member of the body. For this power unit slightly raised on the jack.
Move the box away from the engine a few centimeters and remove the input shaft from the clutch basket. When removing the gearbox, make sure that the shaft does not rest on the petals of the clutch basket. Contact may damage the basket.
Remove the gearbox from the engine compartment.

The procedure for removing the box from the VAZ 2109 is shown in the video from the author of AUTO RES.

After performing the steps described above, you need to disassemble the gearbox and remove the input shaft.

To dismantle and replace worn bearings, follow the steps:

Clamp the shaft in a vise with soft metal jaws or through wooden spacers.
Pull the front and rear bearings out of their seat using a bearing screw extractor.
Install new parts in place by hammer blows through a metal mandrel. This must be done carefully so as not to distort the bearing ring, as this will cause nicks in the seat.

Gear wear in the box

To perform repairs, you will need to dismantle the gearbox from the car according to the instructions described above, and completely sort out the box. In this case, the condition of all parts of the mechanism should be assessed, since not only gears, but also other mechanisms can be worn out.

The sequence for disassembling the gearbox is as follows:

Remove the clutch bracket and unscrew the six nuts securing the rear cover.
Slide the cover off the gasket with light hammer blows and remove. Remove sealant residue. The reuse of such parts is undesirable, since it does not ensure the tightness of the joint.
Engage third or fourth gear and unscrew the bolt securing the fifth speed shift fork. The bolt is located under the removed cover.
By moving the synchronizer down with the fork, switch the box to fifth speed. Check the position of the splines of the clutch, which should come into contact with the gear.
Remove the clamps of the input and output shafts, and then unscrew the mounting bolts.
Pry off the fifth speed synchronizer with a flat tool (for example, a screwdriver) and remove it from the shaft along with the fork. When removing, the part must be held by hand so as not to lose the balls and springs for fixing the coupling.
Remove the blocking ring and the fifth gear from the output shaft by prying it with a screwdriver.
Remove the needle bearing cage with thrust washer. Then remove the fifth gear from the drive shaft.
Loosen the four slotted screws that secure the shaft bearing plate. Screws tightened with big moment, so they can only be unscrewed with an impact tool.
Remove the plate and bushing of the output shaft needle bearing together with the thrust washer. Remove the bearing circlips in the grooves on the shafts.
Unscrew the three plugs of the gear shift locks. After that, remove the balls and springs from the holes.
Remove the two bolts that secure the box support bracket to the crankcase. Separate the box and clutch housings, which are fastened with twelve nuts. To do this, at the junction there are special grooves into which the awl of a flat screwdriver is inserted. Trying to insert a screwdriver into another joint is prohibited, as the mating surfaces will be damaged.
Place the box flat removed cover fifth gear and unscrew the bolts fixing the shift forks of the first two speeds in the gearbox. Raise the forks up and out seats. Dismantle the third and fourth speed forks in a similar way. To remove the overdrive fork stem, turn it to the side to disengage the stem heads.
Remove the retaining ring and remove the reverse gear fork together with the gear. Then you need to carefully pick up the drive and driven shafts and remove them from the box crankcase.
Loosen the three gear selector securing bolts. Squeeze out of the crankcase through the mandrel roller bearing driven shaft together with the stuffing box.

The procedure for disassembling the box is detailed in the video of the AUTO CUT channel.

The drive shaft of the VAZ 2109 box has several gears, one of which is made in the body of the shaft, and the second has a high interference fit. Therefore, the gears of the input shaft cannot be replaced and are changed to completely new shaft. The maintenance of this part consists in replacing the bearings, which are removed by installers or a puller. Can only be disassembled output shaft boxes, and the parts should be marked or laid out in the order of removal. This method makes it easier reassembly node.

Shaft disassembly sequence:

Install the shaft removed from the box in a vice vertically. The part should be clamped through spacers or using pads on the vice jaws made of soft metal.
Using two tools or a puller, pull off the rear bearing. Then remove the washer installed under the bearing and remove the fourth speed gear by hand.
Remove the needle bearing cage and spacer.
Remove the 3rd and 4th speed shift synchronizer assembly from the splines with riggers installed under the end of the third gear gear.
Remove the 4th gear bushing and insert it and the needle bearing cage into inner part gears of the fourth speed in the position as they stood on the box. Fix the parts together with a plastic tie or wire.
When removing the synchronizer, the fourth gear blocking ring is dismantled with it. These parts are connected to each other with a coupler in the same position as they were installed on the unit.
Remove the 3rd gear circlip. Then you should dismantle the gear and bearing, tie them together with a coupler.
Below there will be thrust half rings, fixed with a retaining ring, which should be removed.
Under the rings there is a gear of the second gear, fixed from axial movement by a ball installed in a hole on the shaft. Pull out the ball with a screwdriver and remove the gear and then the needle bearing. Fix the gear and bearing with a coupler.
Remove the 1st and 2nd speed synchronizer retaining ring.
Rest the shaft against the end of the first gear gear and pull the synchronizer assembly with hammer blows on the end of the shaft. To remove it, you need to use a mallet and a spacer so as not to deform the surface of the shaft.
Remove the synchronizer assembly with the second speed blocking ring from the shaft.
Remove the first gear and the last blocking ring. The gear bearing remaining on the shaft has a lock connector that should be unfastened. After that, the separator is removed.
Turn the shaft over and tighten the remaining bearing with a crowbar or puller.
Rinse the parts in kerosene, troubleshoot and replace the units, and then assemble the shaft in the reverse order.

Replacement of blocking rings

The steps for replacing parts are as follows:

Remove the box from the car and disassemble it according to the above diagram.
Find the synchronizer mechanisms on the output shaft.
Check visual inspection the presence of nicks, cracks and deformations of the rings. If they are, install new parts.
Assemble the box back and install on the car.
Check the operation of the gearbox, if the malfunction was a defect in the rings, then the noise of the gearbox will decrease.

In parallel with checking the condition of the rings, it is necessary to assess the wear of the synchronizer couplings.

Changing the synchronizer clutch

Work on replacing couplings is carried out on a disassembled box by analogy with changing blocking rings. After removing the coupling assembly with the hub, it is necessary to disassemble this assembly.

Parsing order:

Mark with an indelible marker the relative position of the parts.
Remove the clutch from the hub. At the same time, it is important not to lose the small parts of crackers with clamps.
Visually inspect the disassembled assembly. There should be no nicks or chips on the parts. All damaged items needs to be replaced.
Align the coupling and hub so that the large grooves on the coupling are opposite the grooves on the hub.
Lubricate the spring grease(for example, Litol) and insert it into the hole in the lower part of the hub groove.
Apply grease to the cracker and insert the ball into the outer part of the part.
Gently compress the spring with pliers and insert a cracker on it. In this case, the ball should enter the groove on the splines of the coupling.
Insert the spring into the crack hole. The assembled nodes must be installed on the shafts of the box and reassemble the mechanism.

The video made by user Sem shows how to quickly assemble the synchronizer.

clutch adjustment

To adjust the clutch, do the following:

Measure the distance of the clutch pedal from the floor using a ruler. The distance is measured from the center of the pedal along the leading edge, resting the end of the ruler against the floor of the body.
Drown the pedal to the limit down and measure the same distance. If during the first measurement a result was obtained within 180-200 mm, and in the second - 60-70 mm, then the pedal travel will be 130-140 mm. This value is normal for the VAZ 2109 clutch. Otherwise, it must be adjusted.
Adjustment is made by changing the length of the clutch cable and is performed under the hood of the car. To adjust, it is necessary to tighten the adjusting nut and loosen the lock nut mounted on the bracket.

Perform cable adjustment

Release bearing replacement

Work on replacing the release bearing is carried out with the box removed.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

Rotate the release bearing by hand to assess its condition. If it crunches and has play, then the part needs to be replaced.
The bearing is fixed on the shaft with a clamping fixing element. It is necessary to remove the spring-loaded end of the retainer with a screwdriver and disengage it from the clutch that serves as the bearing housing.
Remove the clutch with bearing.
Remove the clamping ring and remove the clutch from the release bearing.
Installation new part produce in reverse order. Before mounting, check the softness of the bearing and the absence of play in it. During assembly, all parts are lubricated with engine oil, this facilitates the work process.

Issue price

The repair price of each box is determined by the number of worn parts.

When performing work in the service average cost will be:

bulkhead checkpoint - from 2500 rubles;
removal and installation of the node - about 4000 rubles;
oil change in a box - up to 1000 rubles;
installation of new bearings on the input shaft - approximately 5000 rubles.

The cost of work in the service are approximate and may differ from the city, the location of the workshop and general condition boxes. In most cases, it is more profitable to purchase and install a less worn out node than to sort out the old one.