Full or partial? How to change the oil in a box automatic (automatic transmission) or variator (cvt). correct schema. required reading

Many motorists have a question - when to change the oil in the automatic transmission? And in general, is it worth changing it (many manufacturers claim that their transmissions should not be serviced at all, they say, the oil poured into the box lasts the entire life of the car)?

In our article we will understand this, in fact, quite difficult question, we will find out what affects the replacement interval, how to operate the box in order to extend its "lifetime". In order to understand whether it is necessary to change the oil in automatic box gears (and if so, after how many), you should first figure out why it is in an automatic box at all, what are its functions.

Everyone knows why oil is needed in car components - in order to reduce friction, provide lubrication of parts, protect mechanisms from corrosion and rapid wear. Also, the oil allows you to slightly cool the parts - during operation, the temperature of many nodes can rise to 600-800 degrees Celsius. Gearbox oil is used in the same way. However, this is true, first of all, for mechanical boxes. Automatic transmission, of course, uses oil for the same - but this is by no means its main function.

The fact is that in the "machines" oil (or rather, transmission fluid- ATF) is the so-called "working fluid", which is involved in the transmission of torque. The exception is CVT boxes - they have a slightly different principle of operation. It turns out that for the "machine" the requirements for oil are much higher than for the "mechanics".

For example, if the oil in the mechanical box foams (this happens if there is too much oil in the box or when mixing two different types liquid), this will only lead to increased wear - as the foamed oil loses its lubricating properties. If this happens in an automatic box, it may stop working altogether). Therefore, the quality of its work directly depends on the state of ATF in the "machine". But in the process of operation, the properties of the oil change!
There are some operating conditions, which negatively affect the quality of the oil and the period of its use:

• excessively high loads on the automatic transmission (usually due to constant driving with a load - trailers, a large number of people in the car, driving with low level ATF);

• bad road conditions(everyone knows that off-road driving is one of the most common causes of “early death” of automatic transmissions);
• low fuel quality (in this case, the required power develops at a higher high revs crankshaft, and this implies a higher temperature of the oil in the box);
• "Jagged" driving rhythm (frequent alternation of accelerations and decelerations, "start-stop" city traffic jams);
• too much low temperatures ambient air (too much increase ATF viscosity);
• too much high temperatures ambient air (in addition to the fact that the box overheats faster, the ATF viscosity drops too much);
• quick start from a place (even boxes that have a warm-up mode are not recommended to give a high load from a place, since the oil has not yet warmed up to operating temperature);
• slippage on ice, in snow, sand and mud (in general, for such situations, the machine provides winter mode, in which the start is made from the second gear, it is recommended to use it under the described conditions).

Is it necessary to change the oil in the "machine"?

Operating oil - brown

To begin with, a little about those boxes that are considered "unattended". In connection with what manufacturers make such a statement? Firstly, manufacturers rely on the life of the car, which is generally accepted for Europe and America. That is - after the car has been used for 3-5 years, it is necessary to get rid of it (at the same time, Europeans travel an average of 150 thousand kilometers in 3 years). For a Russian car owner, this is practically new car! Secondly, the "maintenancelessness" of the box is ensured by installing two magnets on the automatic transmission that collect chips. This, of course, partially helps to increase the life of the oil, but does not completely clean it. Very often, car owners, having believed the statements of the manufacturers, do not change the ATF and are faced with a complete failure of the box. As a rule, ATF-related malfunctions in the box begin to appear after 200,000 kilometers. Closer to 300,000, box failure is almost guaranteed. However, when timely replacement The oil life of the box can easily be extended to half a million kilometers.

How often do you change the oil in an automatic transmission?

So, we came to the conclusion that it is still necessary to change the oil in the automatic transmission. What are the replacement times? Manufacturers of automatic machines that are not maintenance-free tend to list two numbers - the average oil change interval and the interval that is used for heavy-duty vehicles. The list of criteria by which it is determined whether the operating conditions are difficult for the transmission has already been indicated above.

As a rule, some of them are quite typical for Russian conditions therefore it is recommended to change the automatic transmission oil according to the heavy duty intervals. For relatively old cars (approximately 2000 and older), the average period ATF replacements in automatic transmission it is about 60 thousand kilometers, for newer ones - about 80. For difficult working conditions, this period is halved - that is, 30 and 40 thousand kilometers, respectively. In addition, for automatic transmissions, there are four main requirements, based on which a decision is made on whether it is worth changing the oil in an automatic transmission even earlier than this period:

• lack of sharp acceleration and sudden braking;
• smooth movement at a uniform speed;
• good quality pavement;
• refueling the car only with high-quality fuel.

It turns out the following situation. If one of the operating rules is violated, then the mileage after which the oil in the automatic transmission should be changed is reduced by another 25%. If two or three rules are violated, then the mileage is halved, if all four - by 75%. Similar conditions help save the transmission. Consider similar situation For example. Manufacturers of modern maintenance-free machines expect that the car will pass approximately 250 thousand kilometers. If the operating conditions imply that the mileage will take place in conditions harmful to the box, the replacement period is halved - that is, it is approximately 125 thousand kilometers.

If the vehicle is driving poor quality fuel and on the roads Bad quality- the replacement period is approximately 60-65 thousand kilometers.

Perhaps such an interval will seem too short to motorists - but as soon as you estimate the cost of replacing the ATF and the cost of repairing the gearbox, the choice becomes obvious. Of course, it is quite difficult to objectively assess how often a car is subjected to harmful effects. However, given the role of such a node as an automatic transmission, it is better to play it safe and change the ATF in advance. There is another criterion by which you can evaluate when to change the oil in the box. This is the color of the oil itself in the box and its smell, as well as its consistency. Usually absolutely fresh oil has pink or Crimson. Oil in working condition - brown. If the oil is very dark, contains inclusions, chips, has a rancid smell (the so-called “burnt” oil), it should be replaced immediately. Also, the presence of chips on the above-mentioned magnets can tell a lot about the condition of the box (by the way, from time to time it is recommended to drive the car to a car service in order to remove this chips, since its presence drastically reduces both the efficiency of the oil change and the operational properties"fresh" ATF).

It is necessary to change the oil in the gearbox, in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. This is especially important for cars with automatic transmission, as the oil loses its properties more quickly in them, compared, for example, with mechanical box gears.

This is due to the fact that in "mechanics" parts do not experience such sudden changes temperatures, and there the oil performs only the functions of lubrication and removal of dirt particles and metal filings from the device, which are inevitably formed during the friction of parts.

The oil in the automatic transmission also lubricates the parts, removes metal particles, on top of that, it removes the heat generated during the heating of the torque converter, which is why the oil life in the automatic transmission is shorter than in the manual transmission. You can always read in the operating instructions for your car which oil to fill in to replace the old one, and after what time it should be done.

Details: How much oil is in the gearbox? How to check the level? - .

If the car has to be operated in harsh conditions, then you need to change the oil in the automatic transmission at least 2 times a year. Severe conditions mean:

• either frost or hot air temperature,
• extreme driving,
• type of road surface - sand, snow or dirt.

These factors lead to an overload of the automatic gearbox. If the oil in the automatic gearbox is already thoroughly contaminated, then this also affects the behavior of the car while driving: jerks and jerks appear when the driver switches the automatic transmission.

Automatic transmission oil change options

There is an option for a partial and an option for a complete oil change in an automatic transmission.

To change the oil completely, you need a specialist. equipment - it is necessary to squeeze out all the remnants of the old oil. With a complete replacement, 12 liters of oil are changed.

What gear oil to fill in the automatic transmission,

Partial replacement is easy to do in your own garage, by yourself, as it does not require special equipment. In one sitting, you can replace up to 1/2 of the total volume of oil. To change the remaining amount of oil, you must first drive another 150-200 km, and then repeat the replacement process 3-4 more times. Let's dwell on the description of the process in more detail (see the video "Changing the oil in the automatic transmission with your own by Toyota" below).

We do a complete oil change in the automatic transmission on our own

For the procedure you will need:

• fresh gearbox oil - up to 10 l,
• new filter automatic transmission,
• new pan gasket
• a small board that will help in the process of removing the pallet,
• an ordinary funnel for pouring liquid,
• a small piece of a hose
• keys for 17 and 10 (the first is to remove the drain tank, the second is to unscrew the bolts),
• screwdriver for 10
• hammer.

OIL CHANGE PROCESS

1. Warm up the oil: for this purpose, you need to drive 10 kilometers.
2. Put the car in the pit and turn it on parking brake, and set the automatic transmission lever to "neutral".
3. After unscrewing the mounting bolts, remove the engine boot.
4. Unscrew the sump cap and pour the old oil into a measuring container.
5. When all the oil has poured out, unscrew all the bolts securing the pan; then with a hammer you need to hit the walls of the pallet, applying the prepared plank, instead of the gasket, to prevent deformation and other damage to the pallet. The removed pan must be washed and degreased.
6. When the pallet is dismantled, the automatic box filter will become visible - it must also be removed. While unscrewing the filter mounting bolts, oil will begin to ooze, so you must first substitute the same measuring container into which the oil will drain.
7. Install a new automatic transmission filter, then a gasket and a clean pan, secure everything with the removed bolts.
8. Determine how much oil has spilled out, add another 1.5 liters to this amount - this is the same amount of new oil you will need to fill in the automatic transmission.
9. Put one end of a piece of hose on the tube used to drain oil and located at the bottom of the radiator, and place its other end in a vessel (basin, pan or jar) with a capacity of at least 1.5 liters.
10. Start the car and wait a bit: used oil will begin to pour into the vessel. Now you need to turn off the engine and pour a little fresh into the box - in an amount equal to the drained one. We repeat the steps already taken: we start the engine and watch how the next portion of used oil is poured into the container. Again, pour in an equal portion of fresh oil, and so - several times, until clean oil comes out.
11. Having achieved that the oil comes out clean, you need to complete the replacement process - disconnect the hose and install all the pipes in their places.
12. Check the oil level in the gearbox.

Video: Do-it-yourself automatic transmission oil change Toyota

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So, what are the pros and cons of changing the oil in an automatic transmission with our own hands? Of the advantages, one can single out savings and confidence in good quality filled oil. The only drawback is the lack of professional skills, which, in the process of practice, can be quickly eliminated.

There are three main ways to change the oil in an automatic transmission:
1. The first, traditional method is a partial oil change, its refreshment. The drain plug in the automatic transmission crankcase is unscrewed (below), as much oil is drained as it can flow out, and the same amount is poured (or more / less - the level is checked on the dipstick). This changes 30-40% of the oil. At the same time, nothing cardinal happens in the automatic transmission - the new oil simply mixes with the old one. If you need to change more than 30-40% of the oil or all the oil completely, it is recommended to repeat the partial replacement procedure several times (3-5) every few hundred kilometers.

The advantages of this method:

* you can do everything yourself, without stopping by the service station and without resorting to outside help;
* a small amount of oil is consumed (with one change);
* the filter and the pallet are washed; by deposits on the pallet, you can analyze the operation of the automatic transmission and prevent serious damage;
* less risk of washing out “useful” deposits in the automatic transmission and, therefore, less risk of disrupting the operation of the box.

* for complete ATP replacement you need to change it several times, which leads to its large total consumption;
* Completely ATP you still will not change.

2. The second method is a 100% oil change in an automatic transmission at a service station, using special equipment. Many service stations now have devices (mainly by Wynns), with the help of which the oil in the automatic transmission is changed using the punching method. The new oil is replaced by the old one, which allows us to talk about its complete replacement. This is done according to the following algorithm: through the box cooling radiator, the tubes of the apparatus are connected to the automatic transmission, the engine starts, the old oil is drained, and the new one is poured. Through a special window, you can visually control the color of ATP - as soon as it reaches desired color, the procedure is terminated. This replacement takes about 10-12 liters of ATP. The cost of such a procedure in Vladivostok is about 200-400 rubles for the work itself, plus the cost of ATF. You may also be asked to apply a flush.

* cheating with the amount poured into your ATP machine disappears - you control the whole process and see for yourself how much ATP entered the automatic transmission;
* complete replacement oil in automatic transmission has a very significant effect on gasoline consumption in the direction of reduction, since losses in the torque converter are greatly reduced. In addition, the automatic transmission itself often becomes “faster”;
* you trust professionals.

* at the service station you will be given a guarantee for their work, but they will not give a guarantee for normal work automatic transmission after that. This is due to the fact that with a complete oil change, "useful" deposits are washed out with all the ensuing consequences - up to the breakdown of the automatic transmission. However, this is only true for cars with high mileage, not for fresh cars;
* equipment for such a procedure is not yet available in all cities, that is, this method is not available to every motorist;
* it costs, of course, more than just refreshing the oil.

3. Method three - 100% oil change in automatic transmission on your own. For those who do not want to overpay car service representatives and are confident in their abilities. Let's make a reservation right away: the following methods for changing oil in automatic transmissions are taken from the forum and their effectiveness remains entirely on the conscience of those who described them in our forum :)

So the method in in general terms is as follows: warm up the automatic transmission, after driving about 5 km, drive into the pit, and, turning off the engine, unscrew drain plug on the transmission tray. Drain maximum amount oils. After that, very carefully unscrew the pan - there is still quite a large amount of oil in it, and if you move it carelessly, you can pour it on yourself. Carefully remove the filter (some more oil will pour out), rinse the filter (with gasoline or solvent, blow it out), rinse the sump from plaque, then put the filter, gasket, sump back. Then pour as much ATP into the probe hole as it spilled out as a result of previous operations (or even a little more). After that, it is necessary to disconnect the oil drain pipes from the cooling radiator, put hoses on the oil channels, which are lowered into a container of a suitable size for draining the ATP (someone uses Dexron cans, some Coca-Cola bottles are a matter of taste :)). The engine starts and after a few seconds oil will flow from the hose. As soon as the leaking oil acquires the color of fresh (that is, in fact, the new oil will replace the old one), turn off the engine (it is better to use a partner for this). Remove hoses and reattach tubes. It remains only to check the ATP level for cold marks and hot marks (after a few kilometers have been driven in a quiet mode).

It is important to change the oil in the automatic transmission in a timely manner - it depends right job your box and its durability. Automatic transmission oil change intervals should be written in the owner's manual for your car. Let's look at the manual first! Only the engineers who designed your gearbox know better at what interval to change the oil in it! Under severe operating conditions, many manufacturers It is recommended to change the oil in the automatic transmission twice as often! Be sure to pay attention to this! Severe operating conditions for automatic transmissions are:

• towing cars and trailers, transportation of goods, many passengers in the cabin - the load of the box.
• roads with dirt, sand, snow cover.
• heat environment- box overheating - faster oil aging at high temperatures.
• low temperature, frost, thickened oil.
• start-stop modes, traffic jams and urban traffic conditions.
• wheel slip - stuck and slipped in the forest or on the beach.
• sharp acceleration from a standstill.

And so, with what interval should we change the oil in the automatic transmission? For example, we honor technical information to the car Toyota Avensis.

Finding a string automatic transmission fluid fluid in an automatic transmission. And we observe that, in cars up to 99 years old (that is, old cars), the oil in the automatic transmission should be replaced after 60 thousand km under normal conditions (Normal), and under severe operating conditions (Severe) after 30 thousand km! That is, the manufacturer toyota car, recommends changing the oil in the automatic transmission, under difficult conditions - after 30 thousand km! In Russia, with our roads, snowfalls, primers in dachas, vacations, towing, frost - you can safely consider the operating conditions difficult!

If we look more modern liquid in automatic transmission Toyota Genuine ATF type T-IV or Toyota Genuine ATF WS- the manufacturer recommends replacing at the interval 90 thousand km in difficult conditions. Under normal conditions, only inspect the liquid. Usually, craftsmen look at the oil on the dipstick to see if it has turned black and if it smells burnt. These are the first indirect signs that the oil should be changed.

Be sure to consider harsh operating conditions! If you change the oil in the automatic transmission more often, the box will last longer!

Unattended automatic transmissions, and is it worth changing the oil in them?

Unfortunately, lately, among automakers, there has been a tendency to fill automatic transmission oil for the entire life of the car. That is, the ATP in the box does not need to be changed at all. Manufacturers have stopped making drain plugs - for simply draining fluid. Manufacturers have stopped making dipsticks by which you can measure the level of liquid in the box. After all, an oil change is not necessary! It is clear why this is all happening - automatic transmission fluids have become more resistant to operation, and this actually happens. We look at the example above, Dexron II / T-II is recommended to be changed after 60 thousand, and Type T-IV after 90 thousand, and Toyota Genuine ATF WS even longer. What did it all lead to? The owners of the Lexus GS300 in the difficult conditions of Russia, with such unattended automatic transmissions, continue to drive on black, oxidized, burnt, oil that has lost its viscosity. Difficult conditions operation, kill any oil! Even the best! The wear products of the box - metal powder, shavings, must be taken out with oil, and not accumulated in the box. Many copies have already been broken, I will not scare you with broken boxes, because Lexus boxes endure everything! But let me take you to a logical conclusion. From fresh oil in the automatic transmission, not a single box has yet died, but from the spent ATP increased wear guaranteed. Decide for yourself!

Changing the oil in unattended boxes occurs according to the principle, how much you drained - so much you filled in. The only thing is to take it seriously. Since there is no dipstick and then you will not know how much ATF needs to be filled in. Carefully collect the drained oil in a measuring container, count how much spilled out and fill in the same amount. Also keep in mind that when heated, the oil expands in volume (why there are marks on the dipsticks for hot and cold). That is, when changing, it is imperative to cool the box, since draining the hot liquid and filling it with cold, you will get an expansion of the oil and the level will be higher than it should have been filled in. Be aware of temperature differences!

What kind of oil to pour in automatic transmission?

Be sure to follow the owner's manual for your car! Only the manufacturer of your car knows exactly what to pour into your box! Never listen to the advice of "wise men" on forums that pour for place Toyota WS - Dexron III in order to save money and are very satisfied. More than one box is broken, for no reason correct selection automatic transmission fluids. "Gag" leads to breakage or wrong work automatic transmission. If the manual says Dexron II then you can pour Dexron II and its subsequent replacements Dexron II or Dexron III. If written Toyota Genuine ATF type T-IV then it is desirable to fill it in, or liquids that are compatible with it or exceed the requirements type T-IV according to the oil manufacturer.

There are original OEM fluids that are 100% suitable for your box, if you do not understand the range of oils and specifications, then better pour what is recommended is the original ATF.

we will give examples of only some OEM fluids in automatic transmissions

• GM: DEXRON®-II, DEXRON®-III DEXRON®-VI
• Ford: MERCON®, MERCON®-V
• Toyota: T, T-III, T-IV and WS
• Honda: Z1, DW-1
• Hyundai/Kia/Mitsubishi: SP-II, SP-III, SP-IV, Red-1
• Nissan: Matic D, J, K and S
• Mazda: M-III, M-V
• Mercedes Benz: 236.1/.2 /.3/.5 /.6/.7/.9/.10/.11
• Saab 93 165 147
• Saturn: Saturn ATF
• Subaru Subaru ATF, ATF HP
• Suzuki 3314, 3317
• BMW: 7045E, LA2634, LT71141, P/N 83 22 0 142 516
• Allison TES-389 and C-4
• Caterpillar TO-2
• Chrysler ATF+3 ® ATF+4 ®

But do not forget that the original fluids are not produced by the manufacturer of the car or your automatic transmission, they are produced by the same oil manufacturers that produce conventional branded oils. For example for General Motors Dexron VI is made by Petro-Canada. For Honda ATF Z-1 on the inside Japanese market manufactured by Eneos/Nippon Oil Corporation, etc. That is, OEM oils are the same fluids produced by manufacturers that produce their own fluids for automatic transmissions. And for often non-original oils much cheaper.

Universal oils in automatic transmission

There are also universal oils in automatic transmission. They replace the mass OEM oils and sometimes at the same time. As someone who has been running these oils for many years, I can say with confidence that there is nothing wrong with them, they simply exceed the requirements of many OEMs. I have not had any problems with these oils. If a serious manufacturer, for example Valvoline, writes on its product Valvoline Maxlife ATF:

Satisfies/Tolerances:
GM Dexron IID, IIE, III, VI; Ford Mercon, Mercon V; Allison C-4, TransSynd*, TES-295; BMW LT 71141, LA 2634, MAN 339 type Z1, Z2, V1, V2, Mazda*, Mini Cooper* CVT EXL 799, Toyota T, T-11, T-IV; Chrysler*ATF+3; Mitsubishi* Diamond SP-II, SP-III; Honda ATF-Z1, MB Approval 236.1,2,3,5,6,7, 8,9,10,11, Nissan* D, J, K,-matic, Volvo 1161521, 1161540; Audi* G-052-0250-A2, GM9986195, ZF-TE-ML-14B, 16L, 17C, JWS 3309, Voith* G 607, 1363; KIA* SP-II, SP-III; Suzuki*, VW TL 52162 and others

The manufacturer is very serious and has authority on the North American continent and in Europe - if he writes like this, then it is so! The eminent manufacturer will not risk his reputation. Such a strange at first glance versatility, in fact, means that the oil in the automatic transmission has the best performance characteristics and meets all the requirements of automatic transmission manufacturers.

I personally used universal oils in automatic transmissions:

I can say that these oils worked perfectly, and moreover, they usually had better fluidity in cold weather. In the conditions of Siberia, this is very important. Otherwise, you will warm up the box for ages and just won’t budge.

Well, the last argument in favor of the fact that universal fluids in automatic transmissions should not be afraid. There are several, the most important players in the world - manufacturers of oil additives. In fact, it is they who develop new oils, and oil producers only produce them according to recipes. Their Majesty Lubrizol, Infineum, Afton and Chevron Oronite.

Here is a package of additives for automatic transmissions, one of the manufacturers Afton

This additive package was developed as a package of universal ATF fluids for Japanese and Korean cars. We look at the charts of this reputable manufacturer.

From the graphs, we see that the universal automatic transmission fluid on the HiTec-2018 package has approvals from a whole range of manufacturers. That this fluid runs for more hours and cycles than the original ATF. Now ask yourself the question - who developed the additive packages and formulations - original liquids Automatic transmission for Toyota, Mitsubishi, Hyundai, Nissan? No one else has such opportunities, except for additive manufacturers.

How to change the oil in an automatic transmission (automatic transmission)?

There are several ways to change the oil in an automatic transmission. Let's talk about some of them.

1. Partial oil change oil. At partial replacement, the automatic transmission drain plug is unscrewed, (if there is none, the crankcase is completely removed), the used oil is drained. They also unscrew the automatic transmission filter, drain the oil from it, inspect it for metal chips, clean the magnets (or completely change the filter). How much old oil has drained - the same amount needs to be poured. The drained oil is poured into the old canister in order to roughly understand how much to fill in the new one. Tighten the drain plug and pour fresh oil through the dipstick hole. The oil level is set on the dipstick.

The method is very simple, but not the entire volume of oil changes - the old oil remains in the box in in large numbers. To change the oil in the automatic transmission completely, you need to perform this procedure 3-5 times. In order to mix fresh oil with old oil without leaving the garage, right on the spot, the front wheels of the car are hung in the air and the gear selector is turned on to D (Drive). The wheels are spinning, the box is working and pumping fluid through the system, mixing the freshly filled oil with the old one. Drive oil for 5 minutes, stop the engine and change the oil again. This method does not require great skills, you need comfortable spot and the right tool. But there is one BUT - it takes a lot of time.

2. Full change on a cyclic changer. This automatic transmission oil change is done at the service station. There are special automatic transmission oil changers, for example Wynn's

Two regular hoses depart from the automatic transmission, usually they lead to the automatic transmission radiator or to the main radiator in the automatic transmission heat exchanger section. One hose for the fluid outlet from the box, the other for the fluid inlet back into the box. These hoses are unscrewed, a cyclic changer is connected to them, into which fresh oil is first poured. They start the car (sometimes, for the speed of replacement, they also hang out the wheels and turn them on to D). On the device, through the viewing window, it is clearly visible how dirty water enters it. black oil from the automatic transmission and it is replaced with fresh oil entering the box. The procedure takes about an hour or two and the oil changes completely by displacement.

With this change, you can also remove the pan, drain the old oil (then it will take less new oil when changing), unscrew the filter, clean the magnets. And screw it back in with fresh oil on the dipstick.

As for the devices for a full cyclic shift, there are rumors from the category of horror stories. That they kill boxes. I cannot confirm or deny these rumors, because I have not come across such a thing. On my Toyota, I made such a change 6-7 times and never had problems. I think breakdowns are most likely found in those who have an automatic transmission with a paper filter that has never been changed. It happens that the filters become limp, particles come off and fly into the box. They seem to often suffer Honda boxes. In fact, you just need not to roll the box to black oil. change the automatic transmission filter in time and there will be no problems. Filter particles can come off on the go ... But if you believe in these horror stories, change it by partial change using the N1 method.

With a complete oil change on a cyclic changer, about 10-12 liters of fluid are consumed. Such a change is considered a full change.

3. Complete change with your own hands (unofficial handicraft). At one's own risk. In fact, cyclic changers are a common container and indicator. The automatic transmission itself can displace fluid through the heat exchange hoses. With such a change, in the same way as in the first method, oil is drained from the automatic transmission crankcase. Pour fresh oil through the dipstick - try to fill in a little more than the level so that later draining the used one - do not leave a dry box. Unscrew the fluid outlet hose from the box, lower it into plastic bottle known volume of 1.5-2 liters. They start the car, and the old dark oil is forced out of the box into the bottle. As soon as the bottle is filled (not completely) - the engine is stopped. The oil continues to run a little and the full bottle is filled. Screw the hose back on. Pour fresh oil through the dipstick. You can repeat until light oil runs out of the hose.