How to connect daytime running lights. Installing daytime running lights on a car

15.04.2019

DRL (daytime running lights) - additional lighting devices installed on a car for use in daylight hours days. I would like to emphasize, DRLs are meant to mark your vehicle in front of other participants traffic, and not for additional lighting of the roadway. There is no doubt about the benefits of using DRL, your car will become noticeable at a distance of several kilometers. This is achieved using bright LEDs in DHO. In this article, I will tell you about legal aspects installation of DRL, as well as about various schemes DRL connections.

Legislation

Before the practice of installing DRLs, I would like to dwell a little on the legal norms for installing DRLs, as well as the rules for their operation.

The very first and basic rule is that unauthorized installation of additional light signals on a car is prohibited. Yes, you are right, you do not have the right to install DRLs on your car if it was not equipped with them by the manufacturer. This will be regarded as a change in the design of the vehicle. For every change in the design of the vehicle, a certificate must be obtained, which in itself is not a quick or cheap thing. Otherwise, traffic police officers will write you a fine, or even deliver your car to the impound.

How so? My neighbor put DRL on the Oka and drives quietly! - you ask. He is just lucky for loyal traffic police officers who do not pay attention to his DRL - I will answer you.

Once again, unauthorized installation of additional light signals on a car is prohibited if it was not equipped with them by the manufacturer. Therefore, you make any changes to the design of the vehicle at your own peril and risk. It is a completely different matter if the equipment of your car does not include DRL, but in more expensive trim levels your DRL model is available. In this case, you have the right to install DRL without any approval from the certifying authorities.

The first rule for installing DRLs concerns their location on the car body (see figure). If we briefly describe this figure, we get the following:

DRL should be installed at a height of 250 to 1500 mm;
The distance between the adjacent edges of the DRL must be at least 600 mm;
The distance from the outer side surface of the car to the nearby edge of the DRL should be no more than 400 mm.

Now let's briefly go through the rules for the operation and use of DRLs:

DRLs should only be used during daylight hours;
It is forbidden to use DRLs in conjunction with parking lights, with near and high beam headlights, as well as fog lights.

Everything that is not forbidden is allowed. It's that simple. I would like to dwell on important point, it concerns the use of DRLs in conjunction with high beam headlights. The rule sounds something like this: When a high beam signal is given for a short time, with the side lights and low beam headlights turned off, the DRL should not be turned off. I will decipher: you are driving with the headlights and dimensions turned off, the DRLs are on, when you signal with a high beam to an oncoming car that you are approaching a traffic police post, your DRLs should not be turned off.

Just? I also think that there is nothing complicated here. Knowing the legislation and rules for the use of DRLs, we are ready to move on to the practice of connecting them. Let's start with the simple and wrong, finish with the complex and right. Go!

DRL connection diagram without relay

This is the most simple circuit connecting DRL, but the most not correct. I will describe it a little. With this connection scheme, you supply voltage to the DRL from the main power supply circuit of the car. The main power circuit is activated when the key is turned in the ignition switch. Obviously, your DRLs will always work as long as the key is turned in the ignition, no matter what lights you use. You have no way to turn off the DRL until you remove the key from the ignition.

As you already know, it is forbidden to use DRLs in conjunction with other lighting fixtures. I do not recommend connecting DRL in this way.

DRL connection diagram from oil pressure sensor

In this part, we will tell you how to connect DRLs so that they turn on when the engine is started. To connect according to this scheme, you will need 4 contact relay. The principle of operation of the scheme is approximately the following. In the normal state, relay contacts 30 and 87 are open, i.e. no current flows between them, DRLs are turned off.

As soon as you start the engine, dashboard goes out control lamp oil pressure, relay contact 86 receives a signal from the oil pressure sensor, this signal excites the coil in the relay, which controls the closure of contacts 30 and 87. After closing contacts 30 and 87, your DRLs turn on. This scheme is also not correct. your DRLs will always work as long as your car's engine is running.

DRL connection diagram through 4 contact relay

To connect DRL according to this scheme, you, just like in the previous case, will need a 4-pin relay. Moreover, the connection diagram is absolutely identical to the previous case, only instead of a control signal from the oil pressure sensor, we will use a button in the car. Your DRLs will only turn on when you press a button in the cabin.

You can add some automation to this circuit. In order for the DRL to go out when the engine is stopped, you can send a signal to the button from the fuel pump, or from the same oil pressure sensor. This scheme already has the right to life, because. you can control the operation of the DRL depending on your driving conditions.

The only negative is that you need to manually turn off the DRL (press the button in the cabin) when you turn on the low beam headlights, and also manually turn on the DRL when driving during daylight hours.

Wiring diagram for DRL through a 5-pin relay

This scheme is the most correct and automated, I recommend connecting DRL according to this scheme. This circuit uses a 5 pin relay. Let's talk a little about the principle of operation of a 5-pin relay. The 5 pin relay has 2 power outputs. In the normal state, the first of the power outputs is closed, the second is open. After a control signal is applied to the relay, the first output will become open, and the second closed. It seems complicated, but let's look at an example and everything will become clear.

On the image:

Contacts 85 and 86 are control contacts. Depending on whether there is voltage on them or not, contacts 87 or 87A close;
Contact 30 is the power supply contact of the relay. It is on it that voltage must be applied to power consumers;
Contacts 87 and 87A - contacts for connecting consumers.

I'll give you an example. There is no voltage on contacts 85 and 86, power is supplied through the relay to the consumer at contact 87A. There are voltages on contacts 85 and 86, the relay switches power to the consumer on contact 87.

How to connect:

We supply power to the DRL and headlights through pin 30. For greater automation, take power from the main circuit of the car, which turns on when the ignition is turned on;
We connect DRLs to contact 87A, which will always be on;
We connect the headlights to terminal 87, which will turn on only when the DRL is turned off;
On contacts 85 or 86 (does not matter), we give a control signal from the headlight switch button in the cabin;
The remaining contact 85 or 86 is attached to the car body.

With this connection, either DRL or headlights can work for you. With the car off, the DRLs and headlights turn off.

In my opinion, this is the ideal option.

(hereinafter referred to as DRL) gained their popularity after changes took place and in the last edition Russian traffic rules special amendments have been made. So, according to the new rules, any moving car or other vehicle (road user) during daylight hours must have some light elements for its own designation. Previously, this was only in the form of recommendations, but almost 10 years ago it was introduced on a mandatory basis. You can use both conventional headlights (using a special matte mode) and additionally installed fog lights (PTF) or daytime running lights (DRL) to indicate a light signal.

When using headlights in low beam mode, many nuances pop up that make their operation not very comfortable. Fog lights are also not sinless and often raise questions.

Therefore, for such situations, many drivers prefer to buy special device- DHO. Modules running lights inexpensive to purchase and easy to install on a car. True, there are some nuances in their connection - if they are not taken into account, then the installed DRLs can turn out to be not only useless, but even dangerous and illegal. The DRL connection diagram is a rather delicate issue.

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There are several schemes (at least seven) for connecting daytime running lights according to all standards. Each of these schemes can be implemented independently in a garage - it makes no sense to overpay and contact the service. Let's consider them.

Important nuances to know

As for any standard, all the parameters that must be observed when connecting daytime running lights can be found in GOST - in our particular case, we need GOST R 41.48-2004, specifically paragraph 6, subparagraph 19. From what you need to know and take into account : The electrical function circuit, which is necessary to control the voltage according to the position of the terminals, must be assembled in a special way. In the case of daytime running lights, the criterion correct installation is the fact that the lights should turn on automatically at . But at the same time, they should also automatically turn off if the driver manually turned on the main headlights.

You can also highlight paragraph 5, subparagraph 12, which says that the main headlights (the so-called headlights) themselves should only turn on after the side lights have been turned on. An exception can be considered those moments when the parking lights turn on for a short time as signals (flash).

Despite the fact that this does not seem particularly important at first glance, when connecting daytime running lights yourself, you will have to take into account all these nuances and delve into them.

Although it may seem that "science" correct connection DRL lies precisely in this respect for the balance between the various beacons car, this is actually not the case. The wiring diagram for navigation lights should also take into account the fact that the stabilization unit for LED modules is very desirable when operating navigation lights. Without this block, the voltage will constantly jump inside the DRL. This voltage fluctuation leads to a rapid failure of the device and the need to replace it.

However, there are many motorists who claim that stabilization is completely optional and their DRLs work fine without it. They advocate that installing a stabilizer will be a waste of time and there is no difference between “empty” DRLs from DRLs with a stabilization unit. And, it seems like, connecting daytime running lights is just an additional expense.

In fact, this is absolutely not the case. It is enough to have at least a little understanding in electronics to know that each voltage jump generates an additional forward current that heats the crystals. In the case of LEDs, you can even operate with specific numbers: the magnitude of the voltage jump can reach up to 12V, because of this, the nominal value of the forward current increases and the emitter becomes very overheated.

As a result, you will get a reduced brightness of daytime running lights and their immediate task (what you installed them for) - warning drivers from the oncoming lane - will not be performed effectively enough.

Using LED daytime running lights without additional block stabilization, you will need to replace them almost annually, or even more often, while their direct function will be performed worse. Is it worth being lazy and saving a couple of hundred rubles because of this?

Connecting DRLs from a generator is the simplest available scheme. When it is implemented, DRLs are turned on at the moment (generator).

In order to connect the daytime running lights in this way, you need to take the positive wire and connect it to the positive terminal on the ignition switch. You can mount the negative wire on the case in any appropriate place.

Why is there something else besides such a simple scheme that even a child can implement? The thing is that the scheme, having a huge advantage in the form of simplicity, has significant disadvantage– The daytime running lights cannot be turned off when the engine is running. And the requirements of GOST for the coordination of all headlights and lights on the car are also not met. Therefore, other, more complex schemes to connect.

The next connection option is to use side lights and dipped beam headlights in the circuit, which themselves are tied into a power circuit.

To implement such a DRL scheme with your own hands, you need a wire with a plus sign, taking it from the running lights, connect it to the plus of the battery, and connect the minus (here carefully!) With the plus (!) Dimensions. Why is that? The fact is that when connecting the plus of the DRL to the battery, we make the plus of the battery neutral from the positive. Thus it turns out new chain battery-LEDs-dimensions-bulb-case. And the last link in such a chain will be the minus - the body.

The current consumption in such an implementation is very small (calculated in mA), so the LEDs emit light when the car is turned on, but the spiral from the running gear does not light up.

If the driver turns on the dimensions, then the voltage increases, the potential difference, on the contrary, decreases, the LEDs turn off, but the DRLs themselves turn on.

The scheme for connecting daytime running lights to the dimensions also has a number of disadvantages, and they can not always be neglected.

The running gears do not depend on the engine and continue to work when the engine is turned off. This is contrary to GOST.
This circuit does not work if your DRLs have their own LEDs.
The circuit will not work correctly when using very powerful LEDs.
In order for the scheme to work correctly and not happen short circuit you need to install an additional fuse on the circuit.

A number of shortcomings can be equalized using a few tricks. For example, if you take the positive wire that relates to the LED module, not directly with the battery plus, but through the ignition plus, then the first item will become invalid and the running gear will not work when the engine is turned off.

Another option, similar to connecting through side lights, is connecting to a circuit with a low beam lamp. It works like this: if the dipped beam lights up (the driver turns it on manually), then the DRLs go out at the same moment. The rest of the time they work.

Such a scheme is worse than connecting to a circuit with side lights, because in addition to the fact that it retains all the points of shortcomings from the list above, in addition, this is a direct violation of not only GOSTs, but also traffic rules.

According to the rules of the road, it is forbidden to use DRLs when parking, only side lights are used for this function.

Four-pin relay in the daytime running lights connection diagram

The next method we are considering is more advanced. When using it, you will get the running lights to turn off immediately after the engine is turned off, and they will turn on at the same time.

Despite the fact that such a scheme sounds difficult, anyone can figure it out if they wish. The circuit itself is based on using the switching of a four-pin relay and a reed switch. So, to use the DRL connection through a relay, you need:

Plus LED DRL on pluses of both LED modules.
Exit to the body to the pluses of dimensions.
Second output to any reed switch output.
The second output of the reed switch to the plus of the ignition.

After all the wires have been connected, you need to make a number of small adjustments. Be sure to do this with the car engine running. After the car is started, you need to move the reed switch next to the generator and determine its optimal position - such that it works on time, and the daytime running lights stably emit light. After the desired position has been found, you need to hang the reed switch in the thermotube, and fix the thermotube itself in the position found before.

What should happen when the engine is started? First, the generator should turn on, and after that the current will go through the connected terminals of the relay and the reed switch to the LEDs. The gauge lamps are off at this point because the supplied current is very low.

If there is no reed switch, there is still a way out. Use an oil sensor instead. Just use a pressure sensor and its terminals instead of a reed switch - nothing complicated.

So where's the catch and why isn't this a universal circuit? It's simple - in any implementation (with a reed switch or an oil pressure sensor) it does not implement the ability to connect LEDs to the DRLs themselves.

Use to connect a five-pin relay

So, it may seem to you that there is no universal solution and that any scheme has serious drawbacks. This is wrong. In fact, there are two whole schemes that take into account all the requirements and may well be used without violations. The first of these is the connection of daytime running lights using a relay with five contacts. It takes into account all the shortcomings of the previous methods and eliminates them. This diagram looks like this.

The positive terminals of the LED DRL (two terminals of the LED modules) are connected through the first terminal to the plus of the ignition switch.
The second terminal is connected to the positive terminal of the dimensions.
The third terminal is attached to the body of your car.
The fourth terminal is again brought to the plus.
The fifth terminal must be isolated and not connected to anything.

With the help of such a scheme, you can correctly install your daytime running lights in accordance with all the requirements of GOST and SDA. The voltage after you start the engine is fed directly to the DRL at a rate of 12 volts. This way you turn on your running lights when you turn on the ignition. If any headlights are turned on - both the headlights of the main light and side lights, then the circuit will break and the voltage will stop being supplied to the DRL. Without current, they turn off.

The presence or absence of diodes cannot prevent this circuit from working.

All you need to connect your daytime running lights in accordance with all the rules with five terminals, all you need is a few connecting wires, terminals on which you will fix them, ties with which you will connect the terminals and wires, and a thermotube for insulation. After you make sure everything works as it should, carefully secure everything under the hood so as not to disturb the work already assembled circuit and in accordance with their sense of beauty.

This circuit allows the current to pass into the daytime running lights completely independently of other paths. Therefore, the work of dimensions and DRLs is not directly interconnected and it is possible to use any internal devices without taking into account their power and classification.

Using the daytime running light control unit in the wiring diagram

The latest version of the DRL installation also complies with all norms and requirements of the regulations.

This option is very simple and accessible to everyone. Moreover, it is very convenient to use. Relays are not used here - it is replaced by a small device called the daytime running light control unit.

This small device itself turns on the DRL after the driver, while the operation of the DRL is also independent (as in the previous scheme). Such a device guarantees correct work, so you don’t need to rack your brains on how to properly connect running lights to your car.

The control unit can be used with any type of lamp, you can install it on DRLs with their own LEDs. The unit has overload protection.

TO good blocks detailed documentation must be attached, which indicates the connection diagram (it is as simple as possible, you just need to correctly determine the plus and minus, which is not difficult at all), and the compliance with GOST must be indicated in the documentation (most factory models correspond, but it’s still worth checking). This means that such a controller does not affect the operation of other nodes and is completely independent.

In order not to get into trouble, be sure to pay attention to compliance with GOST. Sometimes manufacturers add other features in order to stand out in the same line, but they can violate the rules of operation. For example, they turn off DRLs at moments not foreseen by the standards, for example, when using the handbrake.

At such moments, it is very important to stop in time and choose what is simpler, but safer.

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The rules of the road provide for the mandatory ignition of running lights during the day while the car is moving. This is due to the fact that a car with headlights on is certainly much more noticeable on the road. And this reduces the risk of an accident.

Many drivers consider connecting daytime running lights to cars too expensive pleasure- as an alternative, the rules allow the use of low beams or fog lights. However, these options are not entirely successful. Constantly turning on the headlights will lead to the fact that after a short time it will be necessary to replace the lamps - you will not go anywhere from wear and tear. Each product has its own resource: whatever the pattern of use, after the resource is exhausted, a replacement is necessary.

Do-it-yourself daytime running lights on a car

So, what do we have if we use options with foglights and low beam headlights? And here's what:

premature wear of lamps;
battery discharge and generator power consumption;
increased consumption of gasoline;
danger of forgetting to turn on the lights before starting to move and earn a fine.

Therefore, it is best to attend to the installation of regular running lights and connect them correctly. And best of all, if the connection scheme works according to the principle automatic start lights after starting the car engine.

If you do not want to spend money on the services of specialists in the development and implementation of a DRL switching scheme, you can find options here that you can do yourself.

Installation of regular running lights

Necessary materials

Before connecting daylights, you will need to stock up on all necessary tools and materials. To do the job yourself, you will need:

pliers;
wire cutters;
soldering iron;
insulated two-wire wire;
LED DRL;
relay for cars at 12V;
reed switch;
single wire;
plastic clamps.

After everything you need is in stock, you can start connecting the DRL on your car with your own hands.

Scheme 1

The first option provides for the automatic inclusion of DRL after the start of the ignition and off after the engine stops. At the same time, the minus is closed to the body of the machine, and the plus is connected to the plus of the ignition switch. All this is quite easy to do with your own hands, even without special knowledge in the field of electrical engineering. The main thing is to carefully monitor what goes where.

Scheme for automatic inclusion of daytime running lights

Scheme 2

The second option is essentially a variation of the first. Here, the same operations are performed with one small difference - after turning on the dipped beam headlights, the running lights are turned off. Here, the plus is connected, as in the previous section, and the minus is connected to the plus of the low beam lights.

This is because the incandescent lamp, which is used for low beam, has more low resistance and more current flows through it. At the moment when the dipped beam is turned on, a plus appears on the minus of the DRL, and they go out.

This option is also quite easy to implement with your own hands - it is important not to confuse and connect all the contacts correctly.

Wiring diagram for daytime running lights

If you have incandescent lamps installed as dimensions, you can use this principle for dimensions.

Scheme 3

Here, the running lights are switched on after the engine is started. The relay, battery and alternator are activated. We connect the minus of the DRL with the body of the car, and the plus with the relay contact under the label 30. The relay contact with the label 87 is connected to the positive of the battery. We close the relay contact with the label 85 to the mass of the car through the DRL. And with the label 86 we connect to the reed switch, the second contact of which we turn on to the plus of the generator. After starting the engine, we move the reed switch around the generator so that the relay is activated and the running lights turn on. After that, we pack the reed switch in a thermopolymer and attach it to the generator. It is very important that the reed switch is mounted exactly in the place of the generator where the relay is triggered.

Scheme of connection of running lights from the generator

Scheme 4

This option is a variation of the previous scheme when a reed switch is not available. Then the contact with the label 86 is attached to the oil pressure lamp in the dashboard. In this case, the lights will also turn on after the engine is started. This option is done by hand a little easier than the previous one.

How to connect daytime running lights

Conclusion

According to the rules of the road, the driver is required to turn on the daytime running lights so that the car is more visible on the road. Can be used as DRL fog lights and low beam lamps. But this is impractical, because it leads to battery discharge - the generator power is not enough for its constant recharging. This will lead to overspending gasoline and premature wear lamps.

Therefore, there are several options for connecting LED DRLs with your own hands - they provide for their automatic activation after starting the engine or turning on the ignition.

DRL or daytime running lights can be connected to the car in several ways. All of them involve connection through a generator or battery.

What is dho

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Modern traffic rules provide compulsory use daytime lights. The solution was implemented for safety reasons, because a car with the lights on will be much more visible to other road users even during the day. As a result, the risk of accidents is reduced.

Traffic police officers today can legally stop vehicle that does not use daytime running light. And the owner of the car will bear the same responsibility for this as if he did not have dipped headlights or PTF.

Daytime running lights are a mandatory element in the list of standard equipment for new car models. But this does not mean that all is lost for used car owners.

Despite the fact that for some Russian drivers, connecting a DRL is too expensive, it is possible to do this without “raping” the family wallet.

Using dipped beam or PTF as an alternative, unfortunately, does not bring anything sensible. Full time job optics leads to the fact that the headlights wear out faster, as a result, such savings lead to even greater costs.

But you can really help save on the service by connecting a DRL according to a scheme that is easy to implement with your own hands.

Only self circuit connection, it is desirable that it is consistent with the following mandatory rules:

daytime LEDs go out a priori when head optics are activated (“low”, “high” light or PTF);
it must be possible to turn off the DRL using a separate button, without the use of extraneous tools;
The navigation light must be turned on randomly as soon as the engine is started.

Thus, the issue with the law is resolved. The inspectors have nothing to complain about.

What's with the generator

As it was written above, the connection of the DRL can be carried out in several ways, but one way or another, you have to use the generator and relay.

According to experts, connecting DRL through a generator gives best effect because complexity and cost can be kept to a minimum. You can also integrate the DRL with your own hands, without using a generator, by conducting a positive impulse from the battery.

Circuit options

So, there are several ways to connect.

DRL turns on as soon as the ignition key is turned. The lights do not go out until the car's engine stops. It is considered the simplest way, which does not involve the use of an on-board network. It is enough just to connect the minus from the lights to any place in the car body, and the plus - to lead from the lock to the output of the high-voltage module, always through the fuse.
The same scheme, only the DRLs immediately go out as soon as the dipped beam is activated. To carry out this option connection, you must adhere to the above scheme, with the only difference being that the minus is connected to one of the positive wires of the dipped beam lamp. As soon as the car is turned on, a positive impulse will appear on the minus DRL, the lights will go out. DRLs will light up again as soon as they are activated. high beam or the head optics will turn off.
Wiring diagram, which includes automatic connection dho as soon as the car starts. It is considered the most reliable option for self-integration of daily led lights. To implement this scheme, the minus DRL is connected to the car body, and the plus is connected to the contact of the relay.

A simple circuit with a 4-pin relay

There is a simplicity of circuit number 1, carried out through a 4-pin relay. However, this option does not always meet the requirements of GOST, since the DRLs will shine separately from the head optics. The lights are not turned off by a push-button mechanism, everything happens automatically.

The photo above shows this circuit, connected via a 4-pin relay. It implies the following procedure:

during the start of the automotor, a pulse is sent from the generator to the relay, the LEDs light up;
as soon as the dimensions are turned on, the DRLs are turned off.

This connection method is also possible without the use of a generator. Then, instead of it, the battery will become the source of voltage, to the plus of which the 30th contact in the photo should be connected.

It is also possible to connect the plus from parking brake. In this case, as soon as the handbrake is activated, daytime lights go out - here is the button.

Diagram with 5-pin relay

It provides for the use of 4 contacts. Ideal connection option for Priora vehicles. The difference from the above diagram is not only in the number of relay contacts. This circuit does not provide for the use of output 87. An alternative to mass is output 86.

The circuit with a 5-pin relay provides for the use of DRL control. A push button mechanism is built in between the generator and the 30th relay contact.

The work of the dho is as follows:

the internal combustion engine starts, thereby, the impulse from the generator goes to the 30th contact of the relay, and from there to the plus of the DRL;
the lights light up, the minus is connected to any part of the car body;
when the dimensions are used, the coil is activated, the 30th contact is integrated with the 87th, the impulse is no longer received - the DRL is turned off.

with reed switch

In a circuit using a reed switch, three important automotive systems: alternator, battery and relay.

The photo above shows detailed diagram connection according to the option using a generator. The plus is integrated, as can be seen from the diagram with point 30. The relay contact, marked with point 87, is integrated with the battery plus. Another relay contact, marked with the number 85, is connected to the vehicle ground through the DRL.

Attention. Such a scheme implies the mandatory use of a reed switch - a device capable of changing the state of the connected electrical circuit when exposed to a magnetic field.

A contact is connected to the reed switch, marked on the diagram with point 86. From the reed switch there is a connection to the plus of the generator.

Thus, the scheme implies the following. As soon as the internal combustion engine starts, the driver activates the reed switch with the button, the relay is activated, and the DRL is turned on. The reed switch must be packed in a thermopolymer and securely fixed to the generator.

Advice. It is important that the reed switch is fixed exactly in such a place of the generator where the relay would work.

Without reed switch

A variation of the scheme at number 3, only without the use of a reed switch. In this case, the contact marked with the number 86 is integrated with the oil pressure lamp in the tidy. Thus, the option of turning on the DRL after the ICE plant is supported.

It is noteworthy that this scheme is much easier to implement with your own hands than the version with a reed switch.

Video: how to connect a DRL from a generator

As you can see, the connection of the DRL to the on-board network of the machine is carried out through the use of several schemes. Plus is taken from the output of the generator, less often - from the battery.

On the territory of the Russian Federation, for more than 8 years, amendments to the rules of the road (SDA) have been in force, according to which a moving vehicle during daylight hours must be indicated by dipped beam headlights, fog lights (PTF) or daytime running lights (DRL). The use for these purposes of head and fog lights has a number of disadvantages. Therefore, drivers prefer to buy ready-made navigation light modules and install them on their own in their car. How to properly connect daytime running lights so that their operation is safe and does not contradict applicable laws?

The nuances of turning on running lights

Basic instructions for installation technical parameters and connection of running lights are listed in clause 6.19 of GOST R 41.48-2004. In particular, the electrical functional diagram of the DRL must be assembled in such a way that the running lights automatically turn on when the ignition key is turned (engine start). At the same time, they should automatically turn off if the headlights are turned on.

Paragraph 5.12 of the specified standard states that the headlights (FGS) should be switched on only after the dimensions are turned on, with the exception of the supply of short-term warning signals. When connecting DRLs independently, this feature must be taken into account.

The correct connection of DRL is not limited to a well-thought-out functional diagram. It's time to think about the stabilization unit for LEDs. In the running lights themselves, the resistors act as a current limiter, however, due to voltage drops, the resistors cannot limit the current at the same level. That is why a voltage stabilizer in the navigation lights connection circuit is essential. Otherwise, the service life of LED DRL modules is significantly reduced due to constant fluctuations board voltage. Some motorists say that you can connect running lights without a stabilizer.

Connecting and installing an LED driver is a waste of time, because DRLs on LEDs regularly shine for months without any stabilization ...

However, this assertion is easy to dispute. The fact is that with each power surge, more than 12 V appears on the LED module, the direct current through the LEDs exceeds the nominal value, which leads to overheating of the radiating crystal. The brightness of the LEDs decreases, such DRLs will no longer be able to fulfill their immediate task - to warn drivers of oncoming vehicles from afar, and over time they will completely flicker and fail.

Using LED DRLs without a voltage stabilizer means throwing away at least a few hundred rubles every year on new modules and wasting time replacing them.

For ease of understanding, the circuits below are shown without the use of a voltage regulator.

The simplest circuit

The simplest scheme for switching on DRL when starting the engine is shown in the figure. The positive wire is connected to the "+" terminal of the ignition switch. The negative wire is attached to the machine body in convenient location. In this form, the scheme has a significant drawback. LED daytime running lights will emit light as long as the ignition key is turned. In addition, their work is not coordinated with the work of the other headlights, which means that they do not meet the requirements of GOST.

Switching on through the dimensions or dipped beam

The second version of the DRL connection scheme involves using the power circuit marker light bulb. To do this, the positive wire from the navigation lights is directly connected to the "+" from the battery. In its turn, negative wire connected to the "+" side light, which in this moment electrically neutral. As a result, the following current flow path is formed: from the “+” battery through the LEDs to the size, and then through the light bulb to the case, which serves as the minus of the entire circuit. Due to the low current consumption (tens of mA), the LEDs begin to glow, and the lamp coil remains extinguished.
If the driver turns on the side lights, then +12 V appears on the plus side of the marker, the potentials on the DRL wires are equalized and the LEDs go out. The circuit goes into normal mode, that is, current flows through the side light bulbs.

This circuit solution has several disadvantages:

running lights remain in operation when the engine is turned off, which is contrary to current regulations;
the circuit will not work if LEDs are also installed in the dimensions;
the circuit will not work correctly if powerful SMD LEDs are placed in the DRL, the rated current of which is commensurate with the current of the light bulb;
for safety reasons, an additional fuse must be installed.

This connection method can be improved by connecting the positive wire of the LED module not to the “+” of the battery, but to the “+” of the ignition switch, thereby getting rid of the first drawback.
Some motorists use circuits for switching on running lights through a low beam lamp. That is, when the dipped beam is turned on, the DRLs automatically go out, and in other cases they work. In addition to the above drawbacks, this method does not comply with GOST R 41.48-2004 and traffic rules.

When the car is parked in dark time days, marker lights are used to designate it, the use of DRL traffic rules is prohibited.

Connection via 4 contact relay from generator or oil sensor

The two following methods have a common basis and involve the operation of daytime running lights only after the engine is started. The DRL switching circuit from the generator is based on switching four contact relays and a reed switch.
DRL relay contacts are connected as follows:

85 - on the positive wire to the dimensions;
86 - to any output of the reed switch;
87 and the second output of the reed switch - to the "+" of the battery.

After checking the reliability of all contacts, proceed to the setting. To do this, start the engine and, moving the reed switch near the generator, achieve its operation and a stable glow of the DRL. Then the reed switch is hidden in a thermotube and fixed in the found place with the help of nylon ties.

At the moment of starting the engine, and then the generator, the contacts of the reed switch and the relay are closed, supplying voltage to the LEDs of the running lights. At the same time, the indicator lamps remain off, since the current through the relay coil is small to ignite them.

In the absence of a reed switch, it is possible to power the DRL from the oil pressure sensor. In this case, the 86th contact is connected to an oil pressure lamp. The rest of the circuitry is duplicated.
Both schemes have a common drawback. They cannot be used if LEDs are installed in the dimensions.

Connection via 5 pin relay

Now it's time to learn how to connect running lights through a five-pin relay. The scheme is the most universal, and is assembled in order to eliminate the shortcomings of the previous options.
First, about connecting the relay for DRL:

30 - to the positive terminals of the LED modules;
85 - on the positive wire of the marker lamp;
86 - on the car body;
87a - to "+" from the ignition switch;
87 - do not connect (isolate).

The circuit with five contact relays works as follows. When the key is turned, +12 V is supplied to the DRL, thereby turning them on. If you turn on the side lights or headlights, the relay will open contact 87a and close the inactive contact 87. As a result, the DRL will go out and the dimensions will turn on. The circuit fully complies with the requirements of GOST and SDA and can work with side lights even based on LEDs.

However, the scheme still has one negative point- DRLs will turn on immediately after turning the ignition switch. That is, if you turn the key in the ignition, but do not start the car, the DRLs will burn.

Despite the existing drawback, the circuit is quite successful, but in order to properly connect the DRL through a five-pin relay, it will be necessary to supplement the circuit with a voltage stabilizer.

This switching option is interesting in that the current flow path through the running lights is independent. This allows you to install light sources of any type and power in the headlights and DRLs.

DRL control unit

The most reliable and simplest is the option of connecting DRLs without a relay, but using a special running lights control unit. It ensures the inclusion of DRL after starting the engine, guarantees safe work, protects against overloads and can be installed on cars with any type of lamps, including LEDs.

Unfortunately, among the whole variety of industrially manufactured DRL blocks, the vast majority does not comply with GOST and has a mediocre build quality.

This concerns, first of all, products from AliExpress, which do not meet the requirements in almost all respects.

Among all the variety, only 2 options can be noted: the Russian DayLight + DRL control unit and German products from Philips and Osram. The DayLight+ control unit was developed by the Russian radio engineer Fedor Isachenkov, taking into account all the features of the car's on-board network and has a number of positive aspects:

there is a built-in voltage stabilization;
full compliance with GOST;
the maximum long-term load power is 36 watts (significantly less is required for DRL);
the simplest wiring diagram.

In addition to the points described above, the DayLight + unit is universal and fits all cars with onboard network 12 volts, and also has good quality assembly and a high degree protection against moisture and dust.
German products from Philips and Osram also have all the advantages of the DayLight + unit described above, however, German control units are only supplied with daytime running lights and are more expensive.