Scheme of the ignition system VAZ 11113. How to set the ignition on the video

IGNITION SYSTEM

Fig.1

Spark torque sensor:
1 - the holder of the forward bearing of the roller; 2 - base plate of the sensor; 3 - screen; 4 - centrifugal regulator weight spring; 5 - regulator weight; 6 7 - stuffing box; 8 - roller; 9 - clutch; 10 - bushing of the rear end of the roller; 11 - driven plate of the centrifugal regulator; 12 - vacuum regulator; 13 - union for vacuum supply; 14 - thrust; 15 16 - frame; 17 - block of wires of the Hall sensor; 18 - lid; A- scheme of operation of the centrifugal regulator; b- ignition timing.

Fig.2

Details of spark torque sensor:
1 - clutch; 2 - frame; 3 - vacuum ignition timing regulator; 4 - stuffing box; 5 - contactless sensor (Hall sensor); 6 - the leading plate of the centrifugal regulator; 7 - centrifugal regulator weight; 8 - roller of the leading plate; 9 - spring; 10 - a driven plate of a centrifugal regulator with a screen; 11 - lock washer; 12 - sensor support plate with bearing; 13 - bearing retainer plate; 14 - front bearing holder; 15 - lid.

  Ignition system- contactless. Consists of a spark torque sensor, a switch, an ignition coil, spark plugs, an ignition switch, and high and low voltage wires.

  spark torque sensor- type 5520.3706 (before 1989, a sensor of type 55.3706 was installed) with built-in vacuum and centrifugal ignition timing controllers. It sets the moment of sparking, depending on its initial setting, the number of revolutions of the crankshaft and the load on the engine. The reading of control pulses is based on the Hall effect. There is one pulse for each revolution of the crankshaft (two for each revolution of the camshaft). The initial ignition timing for the VAZ-1111 engine is -1 ± 1 ° to TDC, for the VAZ-11113 - 4 ± 1 ° to TDC.

  Check sensor performance Hall can be used with a voltmeter by connecting it between the terminals of the green and white-black wires. Slowly rotating the shaft of the spark moment sensor, we monitor the readings of the voltmeter. The voltage should change sharply from the minimum (no more than 0.4 V) to the maximum (no more than 3 V less than the supply voltage).

Fig.3

Scheme of a contactless ignition system:
1 - ignition switch relay; 2 - ignition switch; 3 - fuse block; 4 - switch; 5 - sparking torque sensor; 6 - ignition coil; 7 - spark plug.

  If the steel screen with slots touches the sensor (determined by a slight sticking or scratching sound during rotation of the roller, as well as after partial disassembly of the spark moment sensor), check the axial play of the roller (no more than 0.35 mm, adjustable by selecting washers) and screen fit on the roller. Replace the assembly if necessary. A faulty Hall sensor cannot be repaired and must be replaced with a new one (with the exception of a broken wire between the sensor itself and the block on the spark moment sensor housing).

  You can roughly assess the health of the vacuum regulator directly on the car. With the engine running, disconnect the vacuum hose leading to the regulator from the carburetor fitting. If you now create a vacuum in the hose (you can use your mouth), the engine speed should increase, and when the vacuum is removed, it will decrease again. The vacuum must be maintained for at least a few seconds if the hose is pinched. Visually, the performance of the vacuum regulator can be verified by partially disassembling the spark torque sensor (see "Removing and disassembling the spark torque sensor", p. 86) and applying vacuum to the regulator inlet fitting. In this case, the screen of the sparking moment sensor should rotate by an angle of 10 ± 1 °, and when the vacuum is removed, it should return without jamming.

  Accurate check and adjustment of the vacuum and centrifugal ignition timing controllers are carried out on special stands. It is not recommended to do this at home. If the vacuum regulator fails, it is replaced, if the centrifugal regulator fails, the spark moment sensor is replaced.

  Switch- type 3620.3734, or 36.3734, or HIM-52 opens the power circuit of the primary winding of the ignition coil, converting the control pulses of the sensor into current pulses in the ignition coil. The commutator is checked with an oscilloscope using a special method; if a malfunction is suspected (interruptions in the operation of the engine, shots in the muffler), replace it with a known good one. It is forbidden to disconnect the switch connector with the ignition on - this can damage it (as well as other components of the ignition system).

  Ignition coil- two-pin, dry, type 29.3705 - with an open magnetic circuit, or type 3012.3705 - with a closed magnetic circuit. Data for verification: resistance of the primary winding at 25 ° C - (0.5 + 0.05) Ohm, secondary - (11 ± 1.5) kOhm. Insulation resistance to ground - not less than 50 MΩ. Spark plugs - type A17DVR, or A17DVRM, or their imported analogues (with noise suppression resistors with a resistance of 4-10 kOhm). The gap between the electrodes should be within 0.7-0.8 mm (checked with a round wire probe).

  High voltage wires- type PVVP-8 with distributed resistance (2000±200) Ohm/m or PVPPV-40 with distributed resistance (2550±270) Ohm/m. Do not touch high-voltage wires while the engine is running - this can lead to electrical injury. It is also forbidden to start the engine or allow it to run with an open HIGH VOLTAGE circuit (pinched wires) - this can lead to burnout of the insulation and failure of the electronic components of the ignition system.

  ignition switch- type 2108-3704005-40 or KZ813 with anti-theft locking device, blocking against restarting the starter without first turning off the ignition. When the key is turned to the "ignition" position, voltage is applied to the control input of the additional relay type 113.3747-10, which, in turn, supplies voltage to the ignition coil and switch. Thus, the contacts of the ignition switch are unloaded.

If the Oka car does not start the first time, then it is necessary to correctly set ignition. Also, the correct ignition affects fuel consumption and the overall dynamism of the car.

Instruction

1. First, remove the air filter. It is only necessary to check the ignition timing when the engine is idling. The crankshaft speed should be 820–900 min–1. The lead angle must not deviate more than 1° from top dead center.

2. If the advance angle is set abnormally, this will lead to overheating of the motor. Also, the car will not develop full power. In some cases, detonation occurs.

3. To set the ignition, you need to combine the risk on the flywheel with the middle division on the scale. The first risk you can find on the flywheel. The second risk is on the scale of the rear crankshaft oil seal. At this point, the piston of the first cylinder will be at top dead center. Each division on the scale corresponds to 2° of rotation of the crankshaft.

4. You can also set the ignition according to the marks that are on the generator wire pulley, as well as on the front cover of the camshaft drive belt. The long mark will correspond to the installation of the first cylinder at top dead center. A short mark corresponds to an ignition advance of 5 ° of crankshaft rotation. According to these labels, they often put ignition on the stand.

5. First you need to disconnect the hose from the vacuum regulator. Later, remove the tip of the high-voltage wire from the spark plug of the first cylinder. It must be connected to the strobe sensor. Be sure to read the instructions supplied with this device.

6. Next, remove the rubber plug from the hatch of the clutch housing. Direct a stream of light into the hatch of the clutch housing. If the ignition moment is set correctly, then the mark will be located between the middle division 2 of the scale and the previous division 3. Otherwise, you will have to adjust the ignition timing.

7. You need to first loosen the three nuts that secure the spark torque sensor. To increase the ignition timing, turn the housing clockwise. To decrease it, turn the housing counterclockwise. After adjustment, tighten the sensor fastening nuts perfectly.

Experienced owners of the domestic "classics" perfectly know about all the quirks of this invention of the Russian car industry. And for beginners, a lot can be unaware, let's say how to set the VAZ ignition. It's not that hard if, by and large, the car is set up and working properly. Let's consider a way to "field" ignition settings on a VAZ, without the use of special devices.

You will need

• - car VAZ (01-07 models)
• - wrench 13
• - a straight section of the road where it is allowed to drive 60 km/h

Instruction

1. Looks like signs. The motor overheats, poor acceleration dynamics, a ringing is heard in the motor at low and medium cycles, the car shakes at idle. This happens not only because of an abnormally tuned ignition, it can be in the fuel system, in the quality of gasoline, in the carburetor settings, and so on. However, it is easier for everyone in such an environment to reset the ignition in order to exclude one option for the causes of malfunctions, and move on.

2. We start the engine, warm it up to operating temperature. We open the hood and arm ourselves with a 13 mm key. We do not turn off the motor. We get up from the left side of the car and look at the distributor (this is such a thing from which four thick wires go to the motor, and one of the same goes to a small coil). The distributor is inserted into the motor and fastened with a clamping bracket, on which you will see a nut, which is what we need. We weaken it so that it is allowed to turn the distributor by holding the cover.

3. Rotate the distributor. You will notice that motor cycles decrease and increase depending on the location of the distributor. Now we need to catch the moment when the cycles will be especially high and as stable as possible. Lock the nut and get behind the wheel. Now you need to drive a little. At the moment when the speed is around 60 km / h, switch to fourth gear and firmly press the gas pedal all the way. By the way, it is desirable to do this in silence. If the motor responds with a “cheerful bass” and confidently starts to gain cycles, then everything is in order. If you hear a detonation sound (the ringing of “fingers”, this is similar to a frequent metallic knock), then the ignition is too early. And if, with a sharp pressure on the gas, a failure follows, and the engine will “howl” and barely pick up cycles, then the ignition is too late.

4. It turns out that you have determined how clearly the ignition is set up. We stop, open the hood and loosen the nut on the distributor again. If the ignition was early, then the distributor must be turned a couple of degrees counterclockwise. If too late, then vice versa, clockwise. Turn the distributor hefty diligently, with a slight movement. After adjustment, tighten the nut and repeat the test run. If the adjustment is again unsatisfactory, turn the distributor again, this time to an even smaller angle. Repeat the procedure until the result is close to flawless.

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Note!
If the described tasks in the operation of the motor continue even after the ignition adjustment, or the adjustment fails, then the cause of the disease should be sought elsewhere. It is possible that the matter is in the carburetor, low-quality gasoline, or in faulty candles, coil, distributor sensors (vacuum and centrifugal).

Helpful advice
The result, close to perfect, is when, when the gas pedal is sharply pressed in fourth gear at a speed of 60 km / h, the “fingers” ring no more than 2 times.

The measured rumble of a running motor is only permissible with an immaculately set angle advancing ignition. Compliance with this parameter gives the car's engine maximum power, fuel economy and driving comfort.

You will need

• - wrench 13 or 10 mm;
• – control lamp;
• - a key for turning the crankshaft.

Instruction

1. To set an angle advancing ignition in the car, the gearshift lever is moved to the neutral position, and the car is held by the parking brake in the future.

2. The cover with high-voltage wires is removed from the distributor-breaker, after which the crankshaft is turned with a ratchet key until the distributor slider moves to the sector of the first cylinder of the distributor. Continuing to carefully turn the crankshaft of the motor, the marks on the shaft pulley and the ebb of the front cover are combined.

3. Next, one wire of the test lamp is connected to the coil terminal ignition, the wire from which is combined with the result of the breaker-distributor, and the 2nd wire of the control lamp is connected to the mass of the motor or body in any comfortable place. Later, the fastening of the distributor is loosened.

4. At this stage, the key turns on the ignition. Now, pressing the distributor slider against the move, the distributor housing, if the control lamp is on, rotates in the opposite direction of rotation of its roller until the lamp goes out.

5. Having turned the body of the breaker-distributor a little more, it is carefully turned in the opposite direction, not forgetting to press the slider, and at the moment the control lamp lights up, it is fixed and the device fastening bolts are tightened.

6. Putting the cover with high-voltage wires in place, setting the angle advancing ignition considered completed.

The core snag of the classic Zhiguli models is the setting of the ignition. Often, from an abnormally set ignition, the car stalls during a trip, the carburetor shoots. In a word, this snag cannot be ignored. Therefore, you need to be able to set the ignition on the classics.

You will need

• 1)Multifunction key to turn the ratchet;
• 2) Open-end wrench to "13";
• 3) Indicator.

Instruction

1. Unscrew the nut securing the distributor with a key to "13". Also remove the distributor cap. Now set the location of the outer contact of the distributor to the 1st cylinder. Put on the cover and tighten the fastening nut. Remember to put the “armored wires” on the spark plugs in the correct order. Usually the cylinder numbers are indicated on the wires.

2. Remember designations of labels on a forward cover of the block of cylinders. The first mark indicates the ignition timing by 10 degrees, the second mark by 5 degrees, the third mark zero degrees.

3. Set a mark on the alternator pulley. To do this, you need to use a multi-function wrench to turn the ratchet nut. If the pulley mark is too far away, then it is allowed, with the help of scrolling the starter with a key, to bring it closer to the closest possible distance. The mark itself, located on the pulley, can be marked with chalk for better visibility. With the support of an indicator screwdriver, determine the ignition timing. To do this, connect one indicator probe to the contact, the one that is responsible for the low voltage of the distributor. Combine the other with the "mass". Turn on the ignition. Now, with the support of the key, turn the ratchet along the marks until the indicator lamp lights up.

4. Check for correct ignition timing. Warm up the car engine to operating temperature. Accelerate the car to 50 km/h and move in fourth gear. After that, sharply press the accelerator pedal, a detonation should appear lasting 1-3 seconds. In its absence, increase the ignition timing by turning counter-clockwise. For more prolonged detonation, reduce the advance angle by moving the distributor housing clockwise. If the carburetor or the exhaust pipe “shoots” during the start of the engine, then the set ignition is early. If the engine does not start for a long time, then the ignition is later.

An experienced motorist in many cases should feel that something is wrong with the motor. The novice driver ignores many of these signals until the final breakdown occurs. Positive installation moment ignition makes it possible to enjoy driving a car. Consequently, machine manufacturers strongly recommend that it be adjusted during all maintenance. But, you can easily do it yourself.

You will need

• - kapron brush;
• - cleaning rags;
• – control lamp 12V;
• - probe;
• - starting handle.

Instruction

1. Remove the engine valve cover. Set the mark on the crankshaft pulley opposite the middle mark (5 degrees) on the front cover of the motor and align the mark on the timing gear (timing) with the mark on the camshaft housing. Typical operation of the internal combustion engine is ensured by the correct installation moment(advance) ignition. Due to the late ignition the engine loses power because the fuel does not burn completely, in addition, it overheats, loses throttle response and consumes much more fuel than it should. At an early moment ignition detonation knocks occur, valves and pistons can burn out.

2. Set the number one piston to top dead center (TDC). To do this, unscrew the candle in this cylinder, insert a small plastic or wooden stick into this hole, slowly turn the crankshaft. At TDC, it will stop and begin to slowly decline. Cylinder firing order: 1-3-4-2.

3. Take a nylon brush, cleaning rags, a 12V control lamp, a probe and a starting handle. Particularly faithful and primitive installation method moment ignition self-powered - installation with the support of a control lamp.

4. Remove the distributor cap. Set the octane corrector nut to the "0" position. Connect one end of the lamp wire to the "+" terminal (power wire, the one that comes from the coil ignition to him), and the 2nd - to "-", mass.

5. Turn on the ignition and turn the crankshaft slowly with the starter handle, watching the control lamp. At the moment when the lamp lights up, notice if the mark on the pulley coincides with the mark on the timing cover. If this does not happen, change the lead angle ignition octane corrector nut. One rotation per one division is equal to one degree of rotation of the crankshaft of the motor. The adjustment reserve with the help of an octane corrector is from -5° to +5°.

6. Set the octane corrector nut to the “0” position and slightly unscrew, to move, the nut of the plate that secures the distributor ignition. This should be used when adjusting the octane corrector failed to set the torque ignition .

7. Align the mark on the crankshaft with the mark on the front cover of the internal combustion engine and the mark on the timing gear with the mark on the camshaft housing at the same time. Connect the test lamp as in the previous paragraphs. Slowly turn the distributor housing around its axis until the lamp lights up. Attach it to this location. Start the engine. By ear, check its operation for detonation knocks or interruptions. If there is, use an octane corrector to achieve smooth operation. Final check the moment ignition in move.

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The ignition system is one of the main systems of a car. If the ignition timing is set incorrectly, the engine will start to overheat, will not develop full power, fuel consumption will increase significantly, and detonation will appear. To check the ignition timing, you can use a stroboscope. It is allowed to install it both at the service station and on your own.

Instruction

1. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the vacuum corrector. In order to check the ignition timing, you should connect the plus clamp of the stroboscope to the plus terminal of the battery. Connect the minus clamp of the stroboscope to the "minus" of the battery.

2. Remove the high-voltage wire from the socket of the first cylinder of the distributor cap. Insert the strobe sensor into this place and connect the high-voltage wire to it. Remove the rubber plug from the clutch housing hatch. Start the engine, set on it, according to the readings of the tachometer, the crankshaft speed in the range of 820-900 rpm.

3. Direct the flashing light stream of the strobe into the hatch of the clutch housing. The mark on the flywheel will appear static when the light is flashing. If the ignition moment is set correctly, then it will be between the middle and previous divisions of the scale. If not, adjust the ignition timing.

4. Slightly loosen the sensor-distributor mounting nuts. In order to increase the ignition timing, turn the housing of the distribution sensor clockwise (the plus mark on the flange of its housing to the protrusion on the drive housing). Consider that one notch on the flange corresponds to 8 degrees of crankshaft rotation. In order to reduce the angle, turn the housing of the distribution sensor counterclockwise (mark "minus" to the protrusion on the housing).

5. Stop the engine. Remove the cap from the candle of the first cylinder. Unscrew the candle. Set the piston to top dead center. To do this, insert a long screwdriver into the spark plug hole and, rotating the crankshaft by hand, stop it at the moment when it stops and starts to drop. Remove the clutch housing rubber plug. At this point, the average mark on the flywheel should be right in front of the notch on the scale.

6. Open the cover of the distributor sensor and, holding it with your fingers in order to remove the gaps, align the rotor mark and the stator petal in one line. Fix the distribution sensor. Check the ignition setting with the engine warm at 60 km/h on a level road. To do this, abruptly press the accelerator. If you feel a temporary detonation that quickly passes, then the ignition timing is set positively.

To contribute to the excellent performance of your car, by all means choose the right spark plugs for it. VAZ cars are cars that require the installation of candles from such reputable brands as BRISK, BOSCH, NGK, CHAMPION.

You will need

• - candle key;
• - stand for checking candles.

Instruction

1. Choose candles based on parameters such as glow rating and size. The heat number determines the temperature mode of operation. The higher the mode, the colder the candle, and, consequently, it is likely to work at especially low temperatures. The size must be rigorously chosen positively so that the candle can fall into its place without effort. For VAZ cars, BOSCH products, which own a central electrode, are perfectly suitable. The copper core of which is protected by a layer of chromium and nickel.

2. Choose more inexpensive spark plugs suitable for VAZ cars. They are produced by BRISK. This is a classic product, the electrode of which consists of a nickel alloy. Pay attention to the high thermal conductivity of these candles. The candles of the Japanese company NGK and the overseas company CHAMPION are distinguished by high safety. They have proven themselves because they are durable due to the iridium in the center electrode.

3. Do not purchase spark plugs that are visibly damaged or cracked. Rigorously check before installation that the gap between the electrodes is the right size. Carbon deposits may form on the spark plug electrodes, which you should remove in order to avoid car failure.

4. In order to check the purchased spark plugs, put them in a pressure chamber for a while and set a pressure of about 10 kg / cm2, after which connect a current of 22 kV. When performing these steps, sparking should occur. If it is constant, install a candle in the car. If it occurs intermittently, then your candle is faulty.

5. Find out the spark gap for your VAZ model. Also, do not apply more than 18 kV voltage to the candles when checking them.

Note!
It is allowed to consider the high price of spark plugs justified if they have iridium and platinum tips.

If your motorcycle does not start or does not operate normally, then the cause is probably an incorrectly set ignition. This issue should be given special attention.

Instruction

1. It is worth noting right away that the G-401, G-411, G-421 generators have a mechanical ignition system. To set the ignition, you need to positively adjust the gap between the ignition contacts. Note that you will also have to adjust the outline at the same time.

2. Special attention should be paid to adjusting the gaps in the breaker. For this purpose, turn the rotor with a key of ten in such an arrangement in which the gap will be larger than each. After this, loosen the screw, the one that holds the contact post to the cover. With the support of a screwdriver, turn the eccentric to such an arrangement that the gap between the contacts is about 0.4 mm. To work better than everyone, pre-buy a special probe. Its thickness is 0.45 mm. It should be slightly clamped by contacts.

3. If you are an experienced driver, you can adjust the gap directly on the running engine. To do this, slowly turn the eccentric with a screwdriver. Determine the gap at which the motor cycles will be the largest when the throttle is at a fixed position. After this, it is necessary to tighten the screw of the contact post perfectly. The clearance during subsequent driving should not change independently.

4. After setting the gap in the breaker, you need to set the piston to top dead center, and then turn it back 3 mm. For convenience, you can insert a screwdriver into the hole in the cylinder head. Turning is allowed to be carried out with the same key for ten. Note that the piston should stop at a position of 3 mm before TDC in motion from TDC.

5. Instead of a screwdriver, you can use a micrometer, the one that has a watch head. Also cool for this purpose is a caliper with a specific depth gauge. Release the stator bolts and start turning it in such a way that the contacts in the breaker begin to move away from each other, that is, open.

In order to correctly adjust the carburetor gazelles, you should first check the ignition timing. In addition, the power of the motor depends entirely on the correct installation and ignition settings.

You will need

• - a highly professional reference book;
• - stroboscope;
• - a tube;
• - dye;
• - brush;
• - tools.

Instruction

1. To set the ignition timing, use a stroboscope, while taking the parameters that the motor must correspond to from professional reference books (they contain data for the entire individual model).

2. If a vacuum regulator was installed on the ignition distributor, check under what conditions the vacuum is supplied. There are two options for the supply of vacuum to the regulator: after a light press on the gas pedal and with the engine turned on.

3. Often the vacuum comes only after the engine has started. As usual, this option is represented by a difficult design, prepared for mechanical control. ignition. This design is represented by switches, condensate collectors, thermal switches and delay valves, as a result of which the vacuum force acts on the regulator, and the force of the effect depends on the temperature of the motor.

4. Check the operation of the vacuum regulator with the support of a special tube, one end of which is put on the regulator. With the engine idling, make a vacuum in the tube, and also increase the engine cycles to 100-200 rpm.

5. In order to adjust the ignition with the help of a strobe, there is a graduated scale on the motor. Look for these marks on the crankshaft pulleys (from the front of the motor or in the window located above the flywheel). As usual, these places are covered with a thick layer of mud deposits or rust, therefore, before measuring the indicators that concern you, clean the motor coolly and tint the marks.

6. Adjustment is made on a warm engine, the one that is idling. Carefully turn the ignition distributor at a small angle, while aligning the necessary marks with the blinking strobe light.

Note!
Later, setting the ignition on the Gazelle will require a short trip, allowing you to check the driving performance of the vehicle.

About half a century has passed since the first car with a gasoline injection system rolled off the assembly line. Today, such cars are produced ten times more than carbureted ones. Knowledge positively expose ignition on injector suitable for many car enthusiasts.

You will need

• - PC with installed program for diagnostics of injection motors;
• - tester;
• - a set of keys;
• - screwdrivers.

Instruction

1. The injector of the car is controlled by electronics, which is subordinate to the on-board computer of the car. Monitor the connection of system components. Turn on ignition and weight and check. At this point, the electric pump should turn on and pump gasoline. If this does not happen, check the health of the relay that controls the operation of the electric pump.

2. If the malfunction lamp on the front panel of the car signals, carry out diagnostics. To check, use the on-board computer and a personal computer connected to it with profile software installed. Examine all vehicle parameters that you have accessed.

3. Proceed to starting the car if no engine malfunctions are found at this stage. Check throttle device. Visually inspect the condition of the throttle position sensor and wires. Turn on ignition, check the voltage of the sensor and the on-board network with a tester. Check the degree of throttle opening.

4. Compare your results with benchmarks. Remember that typical sensor voltage is in the range of 0.45 - 0.55 volts. The voltage of the on-board network must be above twelve volts, and the throttle opening degree must not exceed one percent. Adjust the throttle actuator so that it completely closes the damper.

5. Press the accelerator pedal all the way down and repeat the measurements. In this arrangement, the sensor voltage should be about four and a half volts, and the throttle opening degree should be at least ninety percent. Adjust the throttle actuator to full open.

6. Turn off the booster airflow control. Set the throttle to half open to supply air when starting a warm engine easily. Adjust the throttle actuator to completely close the hole.

A properly set ignition on a motorcycle contributes to its highly efficient operation. Proper adjustment increases engine power and speed, and also allows you to save fuel. On most new Ural motorcycles, the current contactless ignition is installed. Old models can also be converted to this type of ignition, which makes the adjustment process easier.

You will need

• - screwdriver;
• - spanners;
• – control lamp;
• - Newspaper.

Instruction

1. Set the crankshaft to the location corresponding to the top dead center on the compression stroke of the first cylinder. Focus on the long mark on the crankshaft. Make sure that the rotor contact is placed opposite the internal cover contact. This contact must be connected with a wire from the spark plugs of the first cylinder.

2. In the event that the switchgear was installed on the motor after its repair, unscrew the spark plug of the first cylinder. Close the resulting hole with a cork made of paper. Start rotating the crankshaft until the air pushes the plug out of the hole. This moment indicates the preface of the compression stroke in the corresponding cylinder.

3. Loosen the fastening of the microprocessor unit so that it can rotate. Turn the block counterclockwise until it stops.

4. Locate the special mark on the flywheel and align it with the center mark of the motorcycle motor. One label is traditionally denoted by the letter "B" (top dead center), and the other by the letter "P" (early ignition).

5. Make sure that power is supplied to the ignition system and to the microprocessor unit, which can be checked by the LED lamp.

6. Slowly turn the block and determine the moment when the control lamp goes out. Now tighten the fixing bolts correctly.

7. At the end of the adjustment, specify the onset of the ignition timing on the skill. Use a test lamp for this, closing the contacts. With the ignition set to positive, the lamp will light up and go out when the crankshaft is turned.

8. When setting an ignition that has a contact circuit, first check and adjust the gap between the breaker contacts (it should be approximately 0.5 mm). Connect a test lamp to the low voltage terminal of the coil; Attach the 2nd wire from the lamp to ground.

9. Now turn the crankshaft until the marks on the flywheel and crankcase match. Rotate the breaker housing after loosening the fixing screws in advance. When the control lamp lights up, correctly fix the breaker housing. Switch off the control lamp.

In a diesel engine, the fuel ignites, heating up from an increase in pressure. Under ignition, the process of setting the injection advance angle is perceived, on which the coordinated operation of all engine cylinders depends.

You will need

• - Kamaz car;
• – the fuel pump of a high pressure;
• - wrench 17 mm;
• - a metal rod with a diameter of 10 mm, a length of 30-40 cm.

Instruction

1. Diesel engine fuel equipment components are high precision instruments. The installation of a high-pressure fuel pump (high-pressure fuel pump) of a V-type on Kamaz requires the correct determination of the angle of injection of diesel fuel into the working cylinder of the vehicle. Remember that even a deviation of one degree can lead to failure of the power apparatus and its further overhaul.

2. Start adjusting the ignition on Kamaz using a special technology for installing a fuel pump with a synchronous setting of the injection moment angle. Raise the vehicle cab and secure it to the support stand. Rotate ninety degrees and fix the mechanical device rod in the special slot on the flywheel guard housing located on the left side of the machine motor.

3. With the support of a 17 mm wrench, unscrew the two bolts on the flywheel housing at the bottom of the machine and remove the mudguard. Through the slot in the casing, insert a cone-shaped metal rod into the hole in the flywheel. Using the lever, turn the crankshaft of the motor from left to right until the locking rod in the upper part completely blocks its subsequent movement.

4. Check the location of the fuel pump drive coupling in the collapse of the engine block. If it is turned with the setting scale up, align the mark on the injection pump flange with the zero mark on the drive and tighten the two fixing bolts. Otherwise, repeat the steps by lifting the stopper and turning the crankshaft of the motor one cycle.

5. Lift the flywheel stopper up, rotate it ninety degrees and insert it into the special slot. Install the mudguard on the bottom of the flywheel housing. Lower the Kamaz cab and place its latches in the upper position.

An abnormally set ignition timing leads to a noticeable drop in engine power and malfunctions. Setting the ignition on the VAZ 2107 is quite easy; for this, there is no need to contact an auto mechanic.

The VAZ 2107 ignition system consists of a high-voltage coil and a distributor - a contact interrupting mechanism. An abnormally set ignition timing can cause a drop in the power of the power unit or its increased wear. The supply of a spark in the engine piston before the end of the compression stroke is called advanced ignition and leads to untimely ignition of the combustible-air liquid, which adversely affects the condition of the piston and connecting rod. Delayed ignition - the occurrence of a spark a few moments after the piston reaches top dead center. In most cases, the ignition is set a little late, however, too much time difference leads to incomplete combustion of the fuel mixture, which causes carbon deposits and a lack of power.

Preparing to set the ignition

Before setting up the ignition system, the car must be installed on a flat surface, put into neutral gear and the parking brake, or place chocks under the wheels. Having opened the hood body, you need to remove blockages from the cover of the distributor and disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. The distributor cover is mounted on spring clips, which can be unfastened with a thin screwdriver or an awl. After removing the cover, it is necessary to clean the carbon electrode and the contacts of the slider from dust and soot, after which it is allowed to start tuning.

Ignition installation VAZ 2107

The regulation of the ignition system in car repair shops is carried out with the support of a special stroboscope. At home, it is allowed to use a conventional digital tester or an ohmmeter with advance charging. With a key of 38, it is necessary to turn the crankshaft of the motor until the distributor slider approaches the first contact at an angle of up to 30 degrees. In this case, an ohmmeter connected to the mass and the contact bolt of the distributor must show the presence of a contact with zero resistance. Next, turn the shaft until the marks on the pulley and the distributor cover are aligned. If, when combined, the ohmmeter shows a value tending to infinity, then the ignition is set positively.

Ignition timing VAZ 2107

An incorrectly set ignition timing can be diagnosed by a prolonged detonation sound, tracked when the fourth gear is turned on at a speed of 50 km / h and the gas pedal is sharply pressed. When the ignition is correctly set, the ringing sound lasts no more than 3 seconds. The prolonged sound of detonation indicates an overestimated ignition angle, and its absence indicates an underestimated one. To adjust the ignition timing, it is necessary to unscrew the bolt securing the distributor to the cylinder head. In order to reduce the ignition angle, the distributor housing must be rotated clockwise, and in order to increase it, counterclockwise. After the adjustment, you need to install the cover of the distributor in place

The VAZ 2106 used both contact and non-contact ignition systems. And the adjustment of the ignition timing is slightly different for both systems. An exceptional difference is that the cover of the distributor is removed much less often in a non-contact system.

VAZ 2106 is a car that has become a legend. Inexpensive, primitive in maintenance and repair, very unpretentious, comfortable and capacitive. This is the car, the one that many people choose today. Despite the fact that, in terms of its technical data, it is very similar to the famous seven, its suspension is much softer, more glorious on the go. An exceptional flaw is an outdated motor with a chain drive of the gas distribution mechanism. Finally, the chain is much stronger than the rubber used in belts. But it makes a powerful noise, its weight is large, and this affects the power of the motor. The ignition system in the six is ​​​​of 2 types - contact and non-contact. For more precise adjustment of the ignition, you will first need to put the timing chain on the marks. To do this, remove the radiator and the cover that covers the mechanism. Drain all liquids in advance so that there is no loss. Remove the chain and install the camshaft and crankshaft according to the marks. This will balance the operation of the cylinders. Now put on the chain, damper, stretch all the threaded connections and assemble the knot. Install the heatsink last. Now you need to do it, based on which ignition system is used on your car.

Contact system

To carry out the work, you will need a 0.4 mm probe and a screwdriver. Remove the cover of the distributor, under it you will see a slider and a contact group. It turns out that you need to install the crankshaft according to the marks with the help of a 38 key. Looking from the front, you can see one mark on the pulley and three on the cover housing that covers the timing mechanism. The far right mark is 0 degrees of ignition timing, the middle mark is 5 degrees, and the left mark is 10 degrees. It is allowed to carry out adjustment by several methods: stroboscope; control lamp; for a spark by ear. The final method is the most inaccurate, but absolutely suitable for field repairs. You need to set the distributor shaft in such a way that the contacts are in the most open state. This location should correspond to the first cylinder. And we adjust the gap, one that should be no more than 0.4 mm. Otherwise, we make adjustments.

Contactless ignition system

Everything is a little simpler here, because there is no need to adjust the gap of the breaker. But the rest of the actions are reduced to the same as in the contact system. That is, it is necessary to set the crankshaft so that the piston in the first cylinder is at TDC. Also, the distributor is installed in the location corresponding to the first cylinder. Check the ignition setting with a stroboscope and start testing. Bring the engine to operating temperature and take a short trip. How does the car behave on the road? Does the motor cycle easily? Evaluate acceleration, throttle response, in case of unsatisfactory results, correct the ignition setting. When more tests were carried out on the road, the adjustment can be considered complete.

As you know, Oka cars are equipped with a rather imperfect 2-spark ignition system (similar to the options installed on some motorcycles). In general, the use of such a principle of organizing the ignition system cannot be called particularly vicious, however, due to the design features and the not too high quality of individual elements, it has a number of significant drawbacks. In particular, Oka owners are well aware of the existence of problems with starting these cars in winter (even a slightly “planted” battery simply cannot cope with maintaining a “two-stroke” spark). The state of isolation between the high-voltage and low-voltage circuits of standard two-spark coils does not stand up to criticism, as a result of which, due to moisture ingress and in wet weather, they fail very quickly. And, finally, such an unpleasant phenomenon as private "shots" in the muffler is also a consequence of the use of a two-spark ignition system - when an incompletely burned mixture is squeezed out by a piston into the intake manifold and, with the valves open, is ignited there by an "inoperative" spark.

Be that as it may, the need to modernize the ignition system of the VAZ - 1111 Oka is beyond doubt and at present three main methods are most widely used:

1. Introduction into the system of a standard distributor from VAZ 2108 with high-voltage ignition distribution, one ignition coil and one switch (from the same place). At the same time, two of the four curtains are cut off in the spark moment sensor, or unnecessary candles are fixed in a neutral place in the engine compartment (it is forbidden to leave extra high-voltage wires without discharge).
2. Installation of a combined two-spark block in an imported or domestic version of the all-in-one type (switch + coil);
3. Installation of the coils of two oil-filled ignition coils from the VAZ 2108, as well as two switches with the combination of their inputs to the torque sensor output.

In general, any of these methods allows you to achieve a certain positive result, although each of them is not without some drawbacks. So the first method reduces the overall reliability of the system through the use of additional elements, namely a high-voltage distributor and several high-voltage wires. The second way is just using a more reliable version of the same two-spark system (if you can find decent equipment). Finally, the third method does not eliminate the problem of an "unnecessary" spark and is associated with energy costs for the second ignition coil.

Based on the foregoing, it makes sense to carry out a more original and effective modernization, namely, in the native spark sensor, leave only one shutter and add a pair of Hall sensors spaced 180 degrees into the system. In other words, it is proposed to implement the third option, with the elimination of its shortcomings by providing ignition in each of the cylinders using Hall sensors.

Preparatory work

• We are finalizing the DMI node for the possibility of connecting two Hall sensors (by replacing the standard connector with a connector with the required number of contacts);
• we cut off one of the DMI curtains under the base (the DMI will have to be disassembled), making sure that there are no chips and metal crumbs that can get into the magnetic gap of the Hall sensors;
• install high-quality injection candles with a gap of 1.1 mm (BOSCH WR7D + X will do);
• coils we use domestic type 27.3705;
• for compact placement of the switch one above the other, we grind brass spacers, providing a distance between the switches of about 27mm;
• "HORS" products with silicone caps are suitable as high-voltage wires. We additionally protect the wires from possible overheating with a heat-shrinkable tube.

Implementation Features

To ensure the normal operation of the system, the hall sensors must necessarily be of the same type (from the same batch), otherwise the direction of the magnets will be disturbed and, as a result, the DMI shutter will remagnetize. Simply put, the native sensor will have to be abandoned.

We carry out power wiring for plus 12V on the relay (in the standard version of blue-black color) with a wire with a cross section of at least 4 sq. mm, while a 2.5 mm stranded wire is sufficient for switches. It is better not to use regular wiring, as significant losses are observed on it.

For the signal part, you can take a shielded multi-core cable with a cross section of 0.2 mm (the screen will allow you to get rid of interference).

The main difficulty in manufacturing an upgraded ignition system is the need for precise location of the Hall sensors on the installation platform. The main problem is that the sensors must be installed with an accuracy of 0.1 mm opposite each other (relative to the circle passing through the centers of their slots). In any case, the mismatch of the sensors should not exceed 1 degree of rotation of the crankshaft. If this condition is not observed, a significant drop in engine power is observed. For the same reasons, it is necessary to follow the reliable fastening of all elements of the system.

The ignition timing is set according to the standard method.

How to set the ignition on Oka

If the Oka car does not start the first time, then it is necessary to correctly set the ignition. Also, the correct ignition has an impact on fuel consumption and on the overall dynamism of the car.

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First, remove the air filter. It is only necessary to inspect the ignition timing when the engine is idling. The crankshaft speed should be 820–900 min–1. The lead angle must not deviate more than 1° from top dead center.

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1. Housing (insulating plastic). 2. Secondary winding. 3. Primary terminals (low voltage). 4. Core. 5. Primary winding. 6. Output of the secondary winding (high voltage). 7. Bracket for fastening the ignition switch. 8, 12. Ignition switch housing. 9, 16. Castle. 10, 13. Contact part. 11, 15. Facing. 14. Block for connecting the ignition relay. 17. Locking pin. 18. Locking rod of the anti-theft device. 19. Contact sleeve. 20. Insulator. 21. Contact rod. 22. Candle body. 23. Glass sealant. 24. Sealing washer. 25. Heat sink washer. 26. Central electrode. 27. Side electrode. 28. Tip for connecting to the ignition coil. 29, 34. Protective cap. 30. Outer insulating sheath. 31. Inner shell. 32. Linen cord. 33. Conductive winding. 35. Tip for attaching to the spark plug. 36. Ignition relay. 37. Connecting block. 38. Ignition switch.

A - hole for fixing pin

Oka vehicles use a contactless high-energy ignition system. Instead of a breaker (with contacts), it uses an electronic switch to open the low voltage circuit, which opens and closes the circuit when the powerful output transistor is turned on and off (i.e., without contacts).

The components of the ignition system include: the ignition coil, the ignition switch, the spark moment sensor, the switch, and the high and low voltage wires. Typically, ignition systems also use an ignition distributor to alternately supply high voltage pulses to the engine cylinders. Here, there is no ignition distributor, and high-voltage pulses are applied simultaneously to the spark plugs of both cylinders and twice during the engine's operating cycle (for two revolutions of the crankshaft). Thus, one pulse in each cylinder is working, and the second is idle.

Ignition coil

Ignition coil - brand 29.3705 high energy, with two high voltage outputs and with an open magnetic circuit. It is attached with two nuts to the bracket on the mudguard of the left wheel.

The ignition coil has a core 4, recruited from thin plates of electrical steel. Primary (low-voltage) winding 5 is wound over the core on a cardboard frame, and then secondary (high-voltage) winding 2. The layers of the windings are separated by insulating paper, and the windings are insulated with plastic. The ends of the primary winding are soldered to the plugs 3. and the secondary - to the sockets 6. The core with the windings is filled with plastic. The resistance of the primary winding is (0.5 ± 0.05) Ohm, and the secondary - (11 + 1.5) kOhm.

On Oka vehicles, an interchangeable ignition coil type 3012.3705 can also be used. It is a transformer with a core made of W-shaped plates of electrical steel. The windings are filled with insulating plastic. The resistance of the primary winding of the coil 3012.3705 is (0.35 ± 0.035) Ohm, and the secondary - (4.23 ± 0.42) kOhm.

Switch

The electronic switch is used to interrupt the current in the primary circuit of the ignition coil according to the signals of the spark moment sensor. The switch is installed in the engine compartment and fastened with two nuts to a bracket welded to the bulkhead.

Switches of various brands can be used on Oka cars: 3620.3734, or BAT 10.2, or HIM-52, or 76.3734, or PT1903, or PZE4022, or K563.3734. All of them are interchangeable. Switches of the first two brands are assembled from individual elements - transistors, microcircuits, resistors, etc., soldered into a common circuit on a printed circuit board made of foil fiberglass. To interrupt the current, a powerful high-voltage transistor of the KT-848A type, specially designed for operation in a high-energy ignition system, is used. The printed circuit board, together with the output transistor, is placed in a die-cast aluminum case.

Switches of the BAT 10.2 and HIM-52 brands have a hybrid design, i.e. all their elements are combined in one large integrated circuit. Structurally, these switches are designed in a small rectangular plastic case, mounted on a metal plate.

The switch maintains a constant value of current pulses (diagram II, sheet 33) at a level of 8...9 A, regardless of voltage fluctuations in the vehicle's on-board network. The switch circuit has a device for automatically reducing the duration of the current pulse in the primary winding of the ignition coil with an increase in the engine speed. In addition, automatic shutdown of the current through the ignition coil is provided when the engine is not running, but the ignition is on. After 2 ... 5 s after the engine stops, the output transistor of the switch is locked, without creating a spark on the spark plugs.

ignition switch

The ignition switch is designed to turn on and off the ignition circuits, engine start and other consumers. It is mounted on the steering shaft bracket using bracket 7 and can be of two interchangeable types: 2108-3704005-40 of domestic production and KZ-813, manufactured in Hungary. The ignition switches are used together with the ignition relay type 113.3747-10, which is fixed under the instrument panel.

Structurally, switches KZ-813 and 2108-3704005-40 are made differently. The ignition switch KZ-813 has a cylindrical body 12, into which the contact part 13 and the lock 16 are inserted, connected by screws. The lock is fixed in the body with a screw and pin 17, which enters the hole a of the body. To remove the lock from the housing, it is necessary to drown the pin 17. Outside, the ignition switch is covered with a plastic lining 15.

At the ignition switch 2108-3704005-40, the lock 9 is located in the housing 8. The contact part 10 is put on the lock and fastened to the housing with a screw. Outside, the switch is also covered with a plastic lining 11.

The ignition switch key is reversible, i.e. it can be inserted into the lock in any position. Both ignition switches in the lock have a lock against restarting the starter without first turning off the ignition, i.e. it is not possible to turn the key again from position I to position II without first returning it to position 0. In addition, there is an anti-theft device. The principle of its operation is that after removing the key from the lock in position III (“Parking”), the locking rod 18 extends from the housing, enters the groove of the steering shaft and blocks it.

The switching diagram shows which contacts are closed at various key positions. Voltage from power sources is supplied to the contacts "30" and "30/1", and removed from the contacts "INT", "50", "15/2" and "P". Contact "15/1" (to turn on the ignition circuit) does not have a direct output to the plugs of the block 37, but only through the ignition relay 36.

Spark plug

The spark plug is designed to ignite the combustible mixture in the cylinders by a spark discharge between the electrodes. Oka vehicles can be fitted with FE65PR or FE65CPR spark plugs made in Bosnia. The difference between the FE65CPR candle is that it has a copper core in the central electrode to improve heat dissipation from the end of the electrode to the body (this is indicated by the letter C in the designation of the candle). The letter F in the designation indicates that the body of the candle has a M14X1.25 thread, and the second letter (E) indicates that the length of this thread is 19 mm. The numbers (65) characterize the glow number of the candle. The letter P means that the thermal cone (skirt) of the insulator protrudes beyond the end of the case, and the letter R means that the candle has a certain internal resistance to suppress radio interference.

Similar candles of domestic production A17DVR, or A17DVRM, or A17DVRM1 can also be installed.

The design of the candles is non-separable. In the steel case 22, a ceramic insulator 20 is rolled, inside which there is a composite electrode consisting of a contact rod 21 and a central electrode 26. The side electrode 27 is welded to the case. The lower part of the rod 21 and the upper part of the central electrode are filled with a special conductive glass sealant 23 with a resistance of 4...10 kOhm. It does not allow the breakthrough of gases through the hole in the insulator and at the same time acts as a resistor to suppress radio interference. To prevent leakage of gases through the thread of the body, a sealing washer 24 made of soft iron is used, which is clamped between the body of the candle and the end surface of the socket in the cylinder head

The gap between the electrodes of the spark plug should be within 0.7 ... 0.8 mm. It is regulated by bending the side electrode 27. It is not allowed to adjust the gap by bending the central electrode, since the insulator skirt can be broken. During the operation of the candle, metal is transferred from the side electrode to the central one. As a result, a recess is formed on the side electrode, and a tubercle is formed on the central one. Therefore, it is necessary to check the gap between the electrodes of the candle not with a flat, but with a round wire probe.

The gap between the body of the spark plug and the insulator is sealed with a steel washer 25 and thermal shrinkage of the body. Thermal shrinkage consists in heating the body belt (under the hexagon) with high-frequency currents to a temperature of 700 ... 800 ° C and subsequent crimping of the body with a force of 20 ... 25 kN. Washer 25 simultaneously serves to remove heat from the insulator to the body, maintaining the temperature of the insulator skirt at a certain level.

The temperature of the insulator during engine operation mainly depends on the length of the skirt and on the thermal stress of the engine. The longer the skirt, the worse the heat dissipation from the skirt to the body and the “hotter” the candle. The optimum temperature of the insulator skirt should be within 500 ... 600 ° C. If the temperature is below 500 ° C, i.e. the skirt is short and the candle is “cold”, then carbon deposits will be intensively deposited on the insulator skirt. If the temperature is above 600 ° C, then the carbon deposits will burn out, but the engine will pre-ignite the combustible mixture from a heated skirt, and not from a spark. This phenomenon is called pre-ignition. It is manifested by knocks in the engine and by the fact that after the ignition is turned off, the engine continues to work for some time.

Incandescent ignition is a harmful phenomenon. It leads to a decrease in power and to overheating of the engine, to premature wear of its main parts, and can cause cracks in the spark plug insulators and burnout of the electrodes.

To assess the ability of a candle to glow ignition, its designation contains a glow number - an abstract value proportional to the average indicator pressure in the engine cylinders, at which glow ignition occurs. It is determined on special single-cylinder engines by gradually increasing the working pressure (and hence the temperature) in the cylinder. The greater the pressure in the cylinder at which glow ignition occurs, the greater the glow number, i.e., the “colder” the candle.

For each engine model, the spark plug is selected individually according to the glow number. Therefore, it is not allowed to use any other candles on Oka cars, except for those indicated above.

High voltage wires

The wires transmit high voltage pulses from the coil to the spark plugs. They can be of two grades: PVVP-8 or PVPPV-40. Due to the increased thickness of the insulation, they have an outer diameter of 8 mm instead of 7 mm for the wires of a conventional ignition system.
The core of the wire is a linen fiber cord 32 enclosed in a plastic sheath 31 with a maximum addition of ferrite. On top of this shell is a conductive winding made of an alloy of iron and nickel. This wire design has a resistance distributed along the length and reduces radio and television interference. Winding resistance is 2000±200 Ohm/m for wires PVVP-8 and 2550±270 Ohm/m for wires PVPPV-40. Outside, the wire is insulated with red PVC compound (for wires PVVP-8) or irradiated blue polyethylene (wire PVPPV-40).

spark torque sensor

1. Front roller bearing holder
2. Sensor base plate
3. Screen
4. Driven plate of centrifugal governor
5. Weight
8. Drive plate centrifugal governor
7. Oil seal
8. Roller
9. Coupling
10. Sleeve of the rear end of the roller
11. Vacuum regulator housing
12. Vacuum regulator cover
13. Vacuum connection
14. Aperture
15. Vacuum regulator bracket
16. Pull
17. Proximity sensor
18. Body
19. Plug connector block
20. Lid
21. Bearing
22. Sleeve of the front end of the roller
23. Felt ring
24. Semiconductor plate with an integrated circuit
25. Permanent magnet
28. Ignition relay
27. Ignition switch
28. Fuse box
29. Switch
30. Spark torque sensor
31. Ignition coil
32. Spark plug
A. Ignition timing
B. The moment of ignition in the first cylinder
B. Ignition timing in the second cylinder
G. c. m.t. pistons of the first and second cylinders
I. Sensor voltage pulses
II. Current pulses at the output of the switch
III. Voltage pulses at the switch output
IV. Voltage pulses in the secondary circuit of the ignition coil
V. Current pulses in the secondary circuit of the ignition coil
a - the angle of rotation of the crankshaft of the engine

The spark torque sensor type 5520.3706 is used to issue low voltage control pulses to the switch. It contains centrifugal and vacuum ignition timing controllers and a non-contact microelectronic control pulse sensor.

The spark torque sensor is mounted on the auxiliary unit housing () and is driven directly from the rear end of the camshaft through the clutch 9. The clutch has two cams of different widths that fit into the corresponding grooves of the camshaft, which also have different widths. This ensures the exact relative position of the camshaft and roller 8. This is necessary so that the control pulses of the sensor are precisely coordinated in time with the phases of the working process in the engine cylinders ().

Housing 18 is cast from aluminum alloy. The roller 8 rotates in two ceramic-metal bushings 10 and 22. The bushing 10 is pressed into the housing and is lubricated with oil coming from the engine lubrication system. To prevent oil from penetrating into the spark torque sensor, a self-clamping rubber gland 7 is installed in the housing. The bushing 22 is surrounded by a felt ring 23 soaked in oil, which is enough for the entire service life of the spark torque sensor. The axial free play of the roller 8 should be no more than 0.35 mm. It is adjusted during assembly by selecting the thickness of the washers located between the coupling and the housing, as well as between the housing and the leading plate 6 of the centrifugal regulator.

On the roller are the details of the centrifugal ignition timing controller: the leading plate 6 with two weights 5 and the driven plate 4. The leading plate is fixed on the shaft, and the driven one, together with the screen 3, is integral with the sleeve put on the shaft and fixed on it with a lock washer. Racks are attached to the driving and driven plates, for which the springs are hooked, tightening the plates. The lower end of one of the posts on the driven plate is the limiter. It fits into the groove of the drive plate and prevents the driven plate from turning more than 16.5° relative to the roller.

When the engine is running under the action of centrifugal forces, the weights 5 diverge, with their tongues rest against the driven plate 4 and, overcoming the resistance of the springs, turn it (and, consequently, the screen 3) relative to the roller. Thus, the screen 3 is driven not directly from the roller, but through the weights and can be rotated by the weights by 16.5° relative to the roller.

There are two springs that tighten plates 4 and 8. They differ in their elasticity. The spring, which has a high elasticity, is installed with little tension and does not allow the weights to diverge at a low crankshaft speed. The centrifugal regulator comes into operation at a crankshaft speed of more than 1000 rpm, when the centrifugal force of the weights begins to overcome the resistance of this spring. At a higher speed, the second spring also comes into action (more rigid and freely mounted on the racks). This ensures a given change in the ignition timing at different engine speeds.

The vacuum ignition timing controller is fixed to the housing with two screws. It consists of a housing 11 with a cover 12, between which a flexible diaphragm 14 is clamped. On the one hand, a rod 16 is attached to the diaphragm, and on the other side there is a spring that presses the diaphragm with a rod in the direction of rotation of the roller. The rod 16 is pivotally connected to the base plate 2 of the sensor. Under the action of rarefaction, the diaphragm bends and, through the rod, rotates plate 2 together with the contactless sensor clockwise, i.e., against the direction of rotation of the roller. The base plate 2 of the sensor is mounted on a ball bearing 21 pressed into the holder 1.

The contactless sensor 17 is fixed with screws on the plate 2. The principle of its operation is based on the use of the Hall effect. It consists in the occurrence of a transverse electric field in a semiconductor plate with current under the action of a magnetic field on it. The sensor consists of a semiconductor plate with an integrated circuit 24 and a permanent magnet 25 with a radio tape recorder. There is a gap between the plate and the magnet, in which there is a steel screen 3 with two slots.

When the screen body passes through the gap of the sensor (see figure), the magnetic lines of force close through the screen and do not act on the plate. Therefore, there is no potential difference in the plate. If there is a screen slot in the gap, then a magnetic field acts on the semiconductor plate and the potential difference is removed from it.

An integrated circuit built into the sensor converts the potential difference that occurs on the plate into voltage pulses of negative polarity. Thus, when the screen body is in the gap of the sensor, then there is a voltage at its output, approximately 3 V less than the supply voltage. If a screen slot passes through the sensor gap, then the voltage at the sensor output is close to zero (no more than 0.4 V).

Operation of the ignition system

After the ignition is switched on, the contacts "30" and "87" of the ignition relay 26 are closed. Through them, the battery supplies voltage to one of the low-voltage terminals of the ignition coil 31, to the plug "4" of the switch 29 and from its plug "5" further to the proximity sensor 17.

When the crankshaft of the engine is rotated by the starter, the screen 3 rotates and the sensor 17 outputs rectangular pulses I to the plug "6" of the switch, which converts them into current pulses II in the primary winding of the ignition coil. The current first gradually increases to a value of 8 ... 9 A. and then abruptly interrupted by the sensor signal. The moment of current interruption (corresponding to the moment of sparking) is determined by the transition of the sensor pulse from a high level to a low one. In this case, the amplitude of voltage pulses III at the output transistor of the switch at the moment of interruption of the current reaches 350 ... 400 V. The duration of the current pulses depends on the speed of the crankshaft. With a supply voltage of 14 V, it decreases from about 8 ms at 750 rpm to 4 ms at 1500 rpm.

The current flowing in the primary winding of the ignition coil creates a magnetic field around the turns of the winding. At the moment of interruption of the current, the magnetic field is sharply compressed and, crossing the turns of the secondary winding, induces an EMF in it of the order of 22 ... 25 kV. The high voltage current closes along the path: the upper high-voltage output of the coil 31 - the spark plug of the first cylinder - ground - the spark plug of the second cylinder - the lower high-voltage output of the ignition coil. In this case, a spark discharge occurs simultaneously at two spark plugs: the first and second cylinders. In one of the cylinders, the compression stroke ends at this time and the discharge ignites the combustible mixture, and in the other cylinder, the exhaust gases are released at this time and the discharge occurs idly.

The combustible mixture burns out in about thousandths of a second. During this time, the engine crankshaft rotates 20 ... 50 ° (depending on the speed). To obtain maximum power and efficiency of the engine, it is necessary to ignite the combustible mixture a little earlier than the arrival of the piston in c. m.t., so that combustion ends when the crankshaft is rotated 10 ... 15 ° after c. m.t., i.e., the spark discharge must be created with the necessary advance.

With excessively early ignition, when the ignition timing is too large, the combustible mixture burns out before the piston arrives in c. m.t. and slows it down. As a result, engine power is reduced, knocks occur, the engine overheats and runs unsteadily at low idling speed. With late ignition, the combustible mixture will burn out when the piston goes down, i.e. in conditions of increasing volume. In this case, the gas pressure will be significantly lower than during normal ignition, and engine power will also decrease. In addition, the mixture in the exhaust pipe may burn out.

In order for the combustion of fuel to occur in a timely manner, each engine speed needs its own ignition timing. The initial (installation) ignition timing is 1°±1° (4°±1° for engines 11113) at a crankshaft speed of 820...900 rpm. With an increase in the speed of rotation, the ignition timing should increase, and with a decrease in frequency, it should decrease. This task is performed by a centrifugal ignition timing controller.

With an increase in the rotational speed of the roller, the weights 5 rotate about their axes under the action of centrifugal forces. The tongues of the weights rest against the driven plate 4 and, overcoming the tension of the springs, turn it together with the screen 3 in the direction of rotation of the roller by angle A. Now the slot of the screen passes earlier (by angle A) through the gap of the sensor, and it gives out a pulse earlier, i.e. .Ignition advance is increased. With a decrease in the rotational speed, the centrifugal forces decrease, and the springs turn the driven plate 4 together with the screen against the direction of rotation of the roller, i.e., the ignition advance decreases.

When the load on the engine changes, the content of residual gases in the engine cylinders changes. At heavy loads, when the carburetor throttles are fully open, the content of residual gases in the mixture is low, the mixture is rich and burns faster, and ignition should occur later. When the load on the engine is reduced (throttle valves are closed), the amount of residual gases increases, the working mixture becomes leaner and burns longer, so ignition should occur earlier. The ignition timing is adjusted by the ignition advance vacuum regulator depending on the engine load.

The diaphragm 14 of this regulator is affected by a vacuum transmitted from the zone above the throttle valve of the primary chamber of the carburetor. When the throttle valve is closed (engine idling), the hole through which the vacuum is transmitted to the regulator is higher than the edge of the throttle valve and the vacuum regulator does not work.

With small openings of the throttle valve, a vacuum appears in the hole area, which is transmitted to the vacuum regulator. The diaphragm 14 is retracted and the rod 16 turns the base plate 2 of the sensor against the direction of rotation of the roller. The ignition advance is increased. As the throttle valve opens further (increase in load), the vacuum decreases, and the spring presses the diaphragm back to its original position. The base plate of the sensor is rotated in the direction of rotation of the roller, and the ignition advance is reduced.