Wiring diagram UAZ 39 623. Rules for connecting a generator to UAZ

Wiring diagram UAZ 452: features of lighting control and ignition system

The famous "loaf" - the multi-purpose UAZ 452 appeared in the line of the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant back in 1965 and remains on the conveyor to this day. Of course, over the years of production, the manufacturer has modernized the car in every possible way - the suspension, the engine, the UAZ 452 wiring diagram have changed, but in general, the whole design has remained the same.

Wiring UAZ 452: reliable single-wire circuit

Differences in electrical systems

Modernization affected the terms of service for cars of different years of production.

The car does not cause particular difficulties when carrying out maintenance work with your own hands, however, electrical systems have differences, the cause of which was:

1. Modifications of power units;
2. Dashboard changes;
3. Installations of lighting and marker lights of a new generation.

The original photo of the 1974 model documentation attached to the car

Period from 1965 to 1984

During this period, the automaker completed its products with electrical components available to the domestic industry. Some of them were known for a long time, others were experimental, which were evidenced by past years, and which had to prove their suitability.

Wiring diagram for headlights on UAZ 452 of the first releases

Lighting control

In particular, the controls and a number of main units migrated from their predecessor, the GAZ-69. Thanks to this, the price of the car remained the same.

On models of the first years of production, a foot light switch was installed, which had several modes of operation:

1. The first position activated the switching circuit for the low beam headlights and side lights;
2. In the second position, the dipped and main beam circuit was activated.

For reference: Turning on the headlights (dipped beam or high beam) led to the turning off of the parking lights in front.

Foot switch for headlights and parking lights

The upgraded light switch has a different operation algorithm:

1. The first position supplies power only to the parking lights;
2. The second position is marker lights and dipped (high) headlights.

Warning: This algorithm with non-disabled dimensions is a mandatory requirement for passing MOT. The factory manual gives recommendations for reworking the old circuit, in which it is important not to confuse the footswitch contacts.

The most correct option is to replace the old switch with a modern one, which uses only 3 contact groups.

Also on the old versions of "452" there was no alarm, so in the electrical circuit:

1. A relay-breaker RS-57 was installed (it was mounted in the wiring gap from the “+” battery terminal to the direction indicator switch);
2. The middle contact of the relay closed the control light on the instrument panel.

Ignition system

Ignition UAZ 452 model 1968

Also, contact ignition was installed on the "452":

1. The "+" wire from the battery supplied power to the ignition coil;
2. From the coil, the high-voltage wire transmitted the impulse to the breaker (distributor) and further to the candles.

Period from 1985 to 2013

On later versions with the advent of injection, some changes were made to the ignition:

1. Additional resistance was installed in the "battery-ignition coil" circuit;
2. A separate wire from the starter was laid on the coil wire connection terminal (past additional resistance)
3. On later models, an additional starter relay was installed in the circuit.

Control devices UAZ 452

For reference: UAZ vehicles also have different control devices. An ammeter was installed on some machines instead of a voltmeter. UAZ 452 wiring made it possible to connect a voltmeter to the wire break between the battery and the ignition system.

Conclusions: along with the car, the electrical circuit also changed. This factor should be taken into account when carrying out scheduled repair work in order to exclude emergency situations.

The good old UAZ-469 is one of the simplest cars. As if assembled from a children's designer, it is by no means replete with any frills and bells and whistles. Instead of an air conditioner - the ability to remove a soft top, and instead of an electric package - a complete absence of what can be controlled using this package. Nevertheless, the wiring on this car is. Although the same UAZ-469 ignition circuit is implemented in the simplest way.

Starter

On a UAZ-469 car, the starter is connected almost directly, through the ignition switch and relay. There is simply no more electronics in the ignition circuit. Even in the more modern "Hunter", which not every motorist can outwardly distinguish from the UAZ-469, the wiring diagram is much more complicated. The control impulse from the ignition relay goes directly to the generator, and all the wiring passes through. On the 469th, they were used only for lighting and the generator. In general, an experienced owner of the UAZ-469 simply does not need an electrical circuit. You can figure out this car in a few minutes.

Peculiarities

It is worth noting several interesting features of this car. which will be of interest to those who first get behind the wheel of the legendary UAZ. For example, the light switch of this machine is located at the feet in the form of a special pedal. How convenient it is when driving, we will not judge, we will leave it to those who have already driven the UAZ-469. The wiring diagram of this car is also full of many interesting features that are elegant in their simplicity. Oil level and pressure sensors, for example, went directly to the dashboard and alarm indicator, bypassing the fuse box and other elements. This allows you to repair the car literally "on the knee", being anywhere. No wonder the 469th is still valued by the military. When repairing the UAZ-469, they don’t even need an electrical circuit.

Characteristics

Despite its simplicity, the UAZ-469 already in those years had two fuel tanks and excellent cross-country ability. It was possible to overcome fords, obstacles and bad roads on this SUV without any modifications, but today the tuning of various UAZs, including the 469 model, is gaining more and more popularity. Fans equip cars with enlarged wheels with mud tires, raise the car and install more powerful engines. True, with the latter option, all the simplicity of the design fades into the background, because you have to completely redo all the electrical wiring of cars. Nevertheless, the popularity of the car is only growing.

In modern models of UAZ - Patriot and Hunter, there are very often cases of ignition of electrical wiring! Be vigilant, regularly check the electrical equipment of the car, install only regular fuses (ours are not Chinese!). Check that no water gets into the ECU.

Vector diagrams of electrical equipment 316X: (diagrams sent by Viktor Gudkov)

Wiring diagrams for cars,,, (error - three diodes in the generator, those that are common (to ground?), must be turned over -) ( Attention! - very large size, about 1.7 Mb each scheme, sent by Maxim Smirnov):

Wiring diagrams for cars (size slightly smaller than 415K),
Scheme of the engine control system (242K) UMZ-4213, UMZ-420, ZMZ-409

Wiring diagram for 31512, produced before 1994 (from the site "Behind the wheel") for a monitor with a resolution of: 640 * 480 (60 Kbytes), 800 * 600 (88 Kbytes), 1024 * 768 and more (120 Kbytes).

1 - front lamp; 2 - headlight; 3 - connecting panel; 4 - sound signal; 5 - side repeater of direction indicators; 6 - turn signal breaker; 7 - generator; 8 - lantern for lighting the engine compartment; 9 - heater electric motor; 10 - heater switch; 11 - additional resistance; 12 - additional starter relay; 13 - spark plugs; 14 - ignition coil; 15 - battery; 16 - transistor switch; 17 - sensor-distributor; 18 - starter; 19 - "mass" switch; 20 - emergency vibrator (connected when the switch fails); 21 - oil pressure indicator sensor; 22 - voltage regulator; 23 - coolant temperature indicator sensor in the cylinder block; 24 - socket; 25 - glass washer motor; 26 - wiper motor; 27 - block of fuses; 28 - sensor of the control lamp for overheating of the coolant; 29 - sensor warning lamp emergency oil pressure; 30 - switch of the warning lamp for the emergency condition of the hydraulic brake drive; 31 - parking brake indicator switch; 32 - brake signal switch; 33 - foot light switch; 34 - microswitch; 35 - electronic control unit for the carburetor idle system; 36 - solenoid valve; 37 - horn button; 38 - control lamp of the emergency condition of the hydraulic brakes; 39 - control lamp of direction indicators; 40 - parking brake warning lamp; 41 - wiper and washer switch; 42 - speedometer; 43 - control lamp high beam headlights; 44 - ammeter; 45 - oil pressure gauge; 46 - control lamp of emergency oil pressure; 47 - control lamp for overheating of the coolant in the radiator; 48 - coolant temperature gauge; 49 - fuel gauge; 50 - alarm switch; 51 - central light switch; 52 - cab lighting lamp; 53 - turn signal switch; 54 - cockpit light switch; 55 - sensors of the fuel level indicator in the tanks; 56 - thermal fuse; 57 - fuel tank sensors switch; 58 - ignition switch; 59 - reversing light switch; 60 - rear light; 61 - license plate light; 62 - reversing lamp; 63 - trailer socket.

Lamps	Lamp type	Power, W
Headlight: high and low beam	A12-45x40	45x40
Headlights (3962* / 3151*)	A12-50x40 / A12-45x40	50x40 / 45x40
front lights
- position light	A12-5	5
- direction indicators	A12-21-3	25
tail lights
- position light	A12-5	5
- direction indicators	A12-21-3	25
- brake signal	A12-21-3	25
Turn signal repeaters (on all vehicles except 3303*)	A12-5	5
reversing light	A12-21-3	25
License plate light	A12-5	5
Special sign lighting lantern (3962*)	A12-21-3	25
Lighting lamp under the hood (315*)	A12-21-3	25
Cabin Light	A12-1	2,1
portable lamp	A12-21-3	25
Instrument lighting High beam control Emergency oil pressure control Control of emergency overheating of the coolant Turn signal control Brake alarm Parking brake indicator	A12-1	2,1
Alarm activation control	A12-1.1 (A12-0.2?)	1,1 (0,8?)

The tachometer (from the six) looks perfect next (to the right) of the speedometer. The connection is regular - everything is written there on the tach case. One - on the coil (low-voltage end any). One - + 12V. One is the mass. One is the illumination of the tach. For fun, you can connect a parking brake light. The generator failure bulbs will remain, but this cannot be connected without a relay. And the bulb of the open (closed) air damper of the carb. The last three are not connected to me, I don’t feel like messing around yet. The hole was drilled with a drill 2.5 mm in a circle less than the diameter of the tach circle by 3 mm, then finished with a round file. The holes need to be punched first. Do not press hard with a drill! Otherwise, the panel will wrap on the last holes.

(from UAZ-Hunter to regular UAZ)
Electronic speedometer AR 20.3802 (two-line display:
upper line - total mileage (6 digits, insignificant zeros are displayed), lower line - resettable daily distance counter), speed sensor AR 68.3843 (six-pulse, impassable, M22 thread, Kozmodemyanovsky connector).

There was only one difficulty during installation - the complete lack of information about both the speedometer and Hunter's electrical circuit. The search yielded no results. It was also not possible to find a native harness with connectors. I had to use the scientific poke method. Everything is clear with the sensor: red - power (+12 V) (after the ignition switch), blue - signal, black - ground. (The connector was simply cut off). At the speedometer, the connector looks like this (the numbering of the contacts is conditional):

The purpose of the conclusions was established:
1. Earth.
2. Power supply (+12 V). (After the ignition lock). (When voltage is applied, the liquid crystal digital display turns on. When the voltage is removed, the readings of the distance traveled are saved).
3. Signal from the sensor. (To the blue wire of the sensor).
4. Night lighting (for instrument lighting).
5. Output 12 volts to power the speed sensor.
6. High beam indicator (the symbol in the center of the scale lights up).
7. Nothing happens. (Probably not involved).
Due to the lack of a mating part of the connector, I connected it with single wires with soldered tips (“mothers”) from audio equipment. Everything is working. Doesn't make noise. The arrow does not jump. The error is minimal. And at night - generally beauty.
October 2005

Rated section, mm2	Current strength in a single wire, A at continuous load and at ambient temperature, o C
	20	30	50	80
0,5	17,5	16,5	14,0	9,5
0,75	22,5	21,5	17,5	12,5
1,0	26,5	25,0	21,5	15,0
1,5	33,5	32,0	27,0	19,0
2,5	45,5	43,5	37,5	26,0
4,0	61,5	58,5	50,0	35,5
6,0	80,5	77,0	66,0	47,0
16,0	149,5	142,5	122,0	88,5

Note: when laying wires with a cross section of 0.5 - 4.0 mm2 in bundles, the cross section of which contains from two to seven wires along the route, the allowable current in the wire is 0.55 of the current in a single wire according to the table, and when the presence of 8-19 wires - 0.38 of the current strength in a single wire.

Causes:
First: Belt tension.
Second: The diode bridge (horseshoe) was partially burnt out. This is a replacement
Third: What I had. The bastardly thin wiring from the generator must pass all 65a. charging current, and mine was charred and half burned near the attachment to the generator. This was the reason. It is necessary to change it entirely.

Luggage compartment lighting

I made the trunk light according to this scheme. The placement of the tip and switch can be seen in photo 1, lights - in photo 2. If there is no security guard, then decoupling diodes are not needed. It is possible without a tip, then you can only turn it on manually (now there are three positions: off, on manually, on automatically when you open the trunk).

One of the most common problems of domestic cars is the breakdown of any electrical appliances, the wiring diagram will help you figure this out. The only solution to this problem will be to check the condition of the fuses. The topic of today's article will be the electrical circuit of the UAZ Loaf car on an injector-type engine.

So, this article provides answers to such fairly common questions:

• What is the wiring diagram on a UAZ Loaf of an engine type injector?
• How is the electrical circuit of a UAZ Loaf car arranged?
• Where are the fuses located on a UAZ Loaf car of an injector-type engine?
• Assembly block repair.

basic information

The fuses in a UAZ Loaf car are located in a special mounting block, and it, in turn, is located in the air inflow box on the left side of the vehicle. The mounting block includes all the most important sections of electronic circuits, while supplying them with the necessary fuses and relays. The fuse block of the UAZ Loaf car consists of two lines with fuses and this whole structure is fixed with a nut to the vehicle body. If you decide to remove the fuse lines, then you will need to disconnect the battery.

The main elements of the electronic circuit include:

• Accumulator battery;
• Electronic fuel pump;
• Fuel mixture purification filter;
• nozzles;
• Engine management unit;
• Electronic ignition coil;
• spark plugs;
• idle sensor;
• crankshaft sensor;
• Air damper sensor;
• Tachometer;
• Fan motor that cools the radiator;
• Control relay for electronic fan motor;
• Engine health indicator;
• Diagnostic connector.

In the event of any breakdown of electronic equipment, the current in the node that is responsible for this device will increase, resulting in a short circuit. The wire through which the current passes to the fuse burns out and melts, as a result of which the circuits break and the device turns off, but its integrity is preserved. That is, thanks to the fuses, the main parts are protected from overheating in the event of a short circuit.

How is the removal and installation of the mounting block carried out?

If the wiring diagram is of high quality, then this will greatly facilitate the process of installing and removing electronic equipment. So, the algorithm for removing the mounting block:

1. Disconnect the wires from the negative terminal of the battery;
2. Open the hood and remove the cover from the fuse and relay box. To do this, press 4 plastic latches;
3. We move the rubber cover;
4. Disconnect the upper block of the wiring harness from the block;
5. We turn off 2 nuts that fix the block;
6. We take out the block from the compartment, which is located in front of the windshield;
7. We disconnect the lower pads of the wiring harnesses from the block;
8. Install fuses and relays in reverse order.

The new Tesla Model S electric car belongs to the premium car class. Today, the Model S is outselling brands such as BMW and Mercedes. Such a car is very good both in its pricing policy and technical functionality. The big buzz around Tesla among buyers is the merit of differences rather than similarities with other cars. With each new entry into the market, developers improve their characteristics. One of which is to reduce the battery charge time to 5 minutes.

The issue of purchasing auto parts for any motorist is an urgent task. Until relatively recently, it was difficult to buy the necessary parts.

This is a special device, which is a pump design for inflating tires. It regulates such an important parameter as pressure, which determines the degree of tire stability and their patency. What is the principle of operation of an automobile compressor, how do its varieties differ, and what are the selection criteria?

Torque from the engine and transmission in cars can be transmitted either to one axle or to both, if you do not consider multi-axle vehicles. In the second case, the type of drive is usually called complete.

Of course, a car like UAZ, popularly referred to as " loaf”, is the most optimal for those who like to go hunting or fishing, and just go on a trip across the impassability of Russia. Especially since tuning this car is distinguished by its diversity.

It's good that UAZ began to make their cars more suitable for personal use. But you can successfully remake the old ones.

Buying in November 1992 a car made in 1988, worn out by 70 percent, was not going to drive it for a long time. However, circumstances changed the plans of the family. More out of necessity than out of love for technical creativity, he took up the improvement of the “loaf”, which has been produced with minor changes since the 60s. In order to somehow facilitate management, improve the appearance and comfort in the cabin, we had to make changes to almost all systems and components.

Overhauled the engine, leaving "native" only the cylinder block. To improve crankcase ventilation, I installed a rocker cover from the Volga, and drowned out the standard breather.

The right 30-liter fuel tank was replaced with a 50-liter one. I installed fuel level sensors in both tanks, and a minimum level indicator in the right one. They are closed with lids with a combination lock.

In the struggle for efficiency, I alternately tried the K-131, K-126, K-151V carburetors. The latter, due to the unpredictability of behavior, had to be replaced by the DAAZ-2107 Ozone. He increased the diffusers in it, made a mechanical drive for the secondary chamber and experimentally selected the throughput of the jets.

After replacing and refining the carburetor, a car at a speed of 80-85 km / h consumes about 13 l / 100 kilometers on the highway, and 16-17 liters in the city. In addition, he added in dynamics, so it became easier to drive in city traffic. Starting the engine in winter is no longer a problem. For a more thorough cleaning of the air entering the engine, and ease of maintenance, I installed an air filter with a replaceable paper element from Moskvich-2141.

To reduce the heating of the carburetor and improve the start of a hot engine, he smashed the intake and exhaust manifolds.

I pour only "Tosol" into the cooling system. I installed a modified fan cover from a GAZ 24-10 on the radiator, and installed the impeller itself from a truck GAZ - it is lighter and more productive than the standard one. Thus, he got rid of the constant overheating of the engine in difficult conditions, especially in summer.

The clutch slave cylinder was replaced with a "Volgovsky" one with two cuffs on the piston.

To eliminate leakage from under the gear shift rollers, I made reinforced covers with two cuffs, and for more than 70 thousand kilometers the gearbox has remained dry.

The standard main gears of the drive axles (front and rear) assembled with the body were replaced with gearboxes from GAZ 24-10. At the same time, the noise in the cabin decreased, and the engine speed decreased. I installed couplings on the hubs of the front axle for quick connection (disconnection) of the wheels.

Front and rear driveshafts adjusted to new axles and balanced. I installed converted bumpers from a truck: I installed fog lights in the front one, and a red fog lamp in the rear left, and a reversing light on the right. In addition to the front bumper, I installed a protective arc made of a thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 50 mm.

Tires 8.40-15 were replaced with radial ones - 235 / 75R15. They are softer than regular ones, not as noisy, the car has become more stable and better controlled.

I made the cabin heater using a radiator from the KamAZ “stove” and two fans with electric motors from UAZ 3151. On the front panel of the heater, I installed switches for the headlight cleaner, cabin heater, interior heater, door locks, cigarette lighter and ashtray. In the lower part of the panel, on the right and left, I placed deflectors from the VAZ 2105 to supply air to the legs of the driver and front passenger, in the middle part - four VAZ 2107 deflectors to supply air to the passenger compartment.

The interior heater was equipped with a more powerful electric motor with a larger diameter impeller. Air intake is only from the cabin, and hot air is supplied through the pipe through adjustable nozzles from the VAZ 2105 to the feet of the passengers in the cabin. The fluid supply to the heaters is completely separate and controlled from the passenger compartment.

He removed the partition behind the cab, strengthened the body frame in the middle part. The battery (it is behind the driver's seat) was covered with a casing. It turned out to be a convenient place for a first aid kit and an emergency stop sign.

At all four wheels, he fitted mudguards that were not installed by the factory, but required by the traffic police inspectors. The regular sunroof was replaced by another one - from KamAZ: it opens in all directions, which improved ventilation.

I installed upholstery on the front doors and personally assembled power windows, there will also be locks with central locking. Exterior mirrors - on racks from the Gazelle - are mounted on brackets from KamAZ. If desired, they can be folded, reducing the size of the car. An additional mirror above the windshield provides an overview of the interior.

All seats were replaced with more comfortable ones from the decommissioned tourist Ikarus. The driver's seat has two adjustments: longitudinal and backrest angle. In the cabin, I installed a folding table, which in the lower position “participates” in the formation of a berth, as well as six seats, three of which have backrest angle adjustment. The two middle seats in the back row are removable, which allows you to carry bulky items. Under the three seats of the cabin, he equipped tool boxes.

After all these replacements and improvements, both me and the passengers really like the car.

The homemade instrument panel houses a modern Gazelle shield and key switches.

In a warm interior with comfortable seats in winter, passengers feel like in a good bus.

Yuri KROMM, Novosibirsk zr.ru

A winch for such a car as an UAZ is sometimes very necessary, especially when the car and its owner live a “full” life of a jeep and an offroad lover.

The winch is able to help out in those moments when the car itself cannot. Before you buy a winch, you need to decide on the technical characteristics of the installation.

Winches can be: manual, automatic, combined. The best option: combined, when you can use both handles and a button.

The winch for the car must be powered by 12V. To safely connect to the electrical equipment of the car.

One of the key parameters: pulling force in kilograms. This parameter is calculated according to the formula shown in the figure below. You need to build on the weight of your car.

Scheme for calculating the required winch force:

For example: the mass of our UAZ loaf for a cross-country jeep trial is ..., let's take the average with a driver, 2000kg. This means that a winch with a pulling force is needed: 2000x1.15=2300kg, where 1.15 is the weighting factor of the conditions, additional resistance..

After spending 5 minutes to read this article and 5 minutes to calculate, you can easily and intelligently continue to search for the winch you need in online stores or the market.