Sounds like an art. Only experienced and professional automotive doctors have this gift. In one service, they may make a mistake in the diagnosis due to lack of experience, and in another, they will deliberately deceive in order to divorce the client for a major overhaul.
With any extraneous noise of the motor (especially when knocking or roaring), thoughtful diagnostics are necessary. However, the most common sounds have their own natural reasons, which even an ordinary car owner can understand. This will help approximately and protect yourself from fraud in the service.
Alas, ear diagnostics are mostly applicable to gasoline units. Due to the natural noise of operation, hear and identify extraneous sounds is extremely difficult.
Attachment drive
The classic whistling sound of a worn out harness is not that simple. It manifests itself more strongly when it is cold, until it warms up. However, often the nature of the noise is different - a hum or metallic sounds are possible. And the circle of suspects is expanding significantly: from tired rollers to deformation of one of the pulleys (because of which it periodically touches the engine cover) or wedging of the pressure plate of the air conditioning compressor clutch.
Calculating whether the belt is whistling is very simple. It is enough to spray it with a “weed” or similar universal lubricant while the motor is running. If the extraneous noise has disappeared completely or significantly subsided, everything is clear with its source. The belt is threatened not only with natural wear in the form of cracks - it also inevitably tans. When the elasticity of the belt is partially restored, so the whistles come to naught. Small pebbles that fall into the belt streams and come into contact with the pulleys are sometimes to blame for the occurrence of metallic sounds.
The serviceability of the rollers in most cases can be checked by removing the belt and evaluating their play. It is much less necessary to use a stethoscope. Sometimes roller bearings hum or rumble without noticeable play.
A water pump or generator can bring the owner to a heart attack. When the bearings wear out, they rattle like steel balls dangling in a metal bucket. At the same time, their pulleys do not always have a noticeable backlash, and the “pump” also has a visible leak. Without a stethoscope, these culprits can first be identified by a simple trick: you need to remove the hinged belt and start the engine. Such a short-term check is not dangerous for the engine. Of course, the described technique is applicable only to motors with chain drive Timing when the water pump is driven by a hinged belt. Otherwise, you cannot check the “pump” in this way.
Timing drive
A rumble in the first seconds after starting a cold engine, as if a bucket of bolts were shaken, suggests that either the timing chain tensioner or the worn clutch of the valve timing mechanism is to blame. Such a characteristic sound is difficult to confuse with something.
In phase shifters breaks over time internal elements, and they rumble until the cavities are filled.
Apart from natural wear and tear problems with the timing chain tensioner may be related to its design. The tensioner works by supplying pressurized oil, and many tensioners do not have a check valve. For this reason, after the engine is stopped, in some cases, oil flows freely from the housing, and the chain sags. After starting the engine, it takes some time to recover operating pressure tensioner fluid.
If the chain is stretched, it makes noise all the time. In this case, a phase mismatch occurs, which turns into a harder operation of the motor - up to the point that gasoline unit may sound like a diesel. It is important to understand that even with a slight stretch of the chain, even before the appearance of light tapping, modern motors begin to lose dynamics and start up unstably during cold starts.
valve mechanism
Incorrect gaps in valve mechanism produce a distinct ringing sound. Its frequency increases with increasing engine speed. The temperature of the engine does not affect the nature of the sound.
An almost identical knock is emitted by worn hydraulic lifters. However, for some engines, noise in the first seconds after a cold start is normal: it takes some time to fill them with oil. A constant knock indicates the failure of the hydraulic pushers: the internal valves stop holding oil, the pressure inside the compensator drops and the gap in the valve mechanism increases - this causes a knock.
The life expectancy of compensators directly depends on the purity of the oil (read:) and its pressure.
Cylinder piston group
Knock piston-cylinder group associated with excessive clearances resulting from wear of parts. It resembles the sound that occurs due to hydraulic lifters or valves, only more muffled. Depending on the size of the gaps, the knock of the pistons may be constant or disappear after the engine warms up.
A temporary knock, which many car owners sometimes do not even hear, often occurs due to local overheating of cylinders and pistons. WITH modern motors this can happen even if there was no general overheating with boiling over. Due to a local increase in temperature, the piston skirt leads, it loses its taper, the gap between it and the cylinder wall increases - as a result, when it is shifted in the upper dead center knock occurs. With engine warm thermal gaps decrease and extraneous noise disappears - which practically does not occur with serious cylinder wear.
In case of piston deformation, you can get rid of little blood, replacing only the actual pistons. But the constant knock of the pistons indicates excessive clearances, and here an overhaul of the engine is inevitable.
Inserts
Critical wear of the connecting rod and main bearings of the crankshaft causes a loud roar - as if hammering on steel with a hammer. Its frequency increases with increasing speed and does not depend on operating temperature engine. The noise is especially pronounced under load. The easiest way to simulate this on cars with is by conducting a stall test (stall-test): while holding the brake pedal so that the car does not move, the transmission selector must be moved to the “drive” position and briefly increased to medium engine speeds - extraneous noise will be heard clearly.
Flaps in the intake manifold
Many servicemen and car owners are confused by the sound of dampers. On idling motor, this noise is very similar to that emitted by dead hydraulic lifters. But under load, the sound takes on a clear "plastic" tone. This is how the damper axis makes noise, which eventually wears out in seats and starts to vibrate.
Oscillations of the killed axis are clearly audible with a stethoscope. An axle malfunction can also be caught without a “device”, if you can get to its end, coming out of the manifold, or to the thrust from the drive. By slightly pressing the “tail”, for example, with a screwdriver, you will temporarily eliminate vibration - and the noise will disappear. By the way, do not rush to change an expensive pipeline assembly: a faulty part can be repaired.
We thank Inomotor LLC (Moscow) for their help in preparing the material.
Read in the article examples of malfunctioning sounds hard drive and how to identify them. Clicking or rustling sounds, vibration or whistling that were not there before. A working hard drive is a fairly quiet device that can only be reminded of itself by a soft click while accessing it or turning on / off the computer. But if, over time, the sounds of clicking or rustling, as well as vibration or whistling that were not heard before, are heard from the hard drive, then such HDD possibly out of order.
western digital
Muffled sound of faulty hard disk heads.
Failed disk heads slowly click several times, after which the rotation of the disk slows down.
Slowdown of the rotation of the hard disk platters after the production of several clicking sounds by the failed heads.
A hard drive with a stuck spindle cannot spin up.
Clicking sounds from a hard drive with a failed preamp chip.
A disc with unstable heads that stops after a few clicks.
A laptop hard drive with a stuck spindle that is trying to spin up, making a siren-like sound.
A computer hard drive cannot spin up due to bad bearings.
Seagate
Rustling and clicking sounds that a disk with inoperable heads makes.
Sounds that a disk with damaged heads makes during startup (platform spin-up).
Clicking faulty laptop hard drive heads.
A disc with a stuck spindle is trying to spin up.
The boring sound of broken disk heads.
Maxtor
A computer hard drive with a non-working or broken head unit.
Clicks of inoperable heads.
The sound that a disc with a jammed spindle makes.
Samsung
A fast clicking sound indicates the failure of the hard drive heads.
The same as with the previous disc.
The sound of damaged hard disk heads.
A worn out computer disk that makes a scratching sound when accessing bad sectors.
Hitachi/IBM
The hard drive of a laptop with damaged heads clicks on startup, after which it beeps.
A worn out computer disk that makes a scratching sound when accessing an area with bad sectors.
A disc with worn platters and a head unit makes wheezing and howling sounds.
The whirring sound of a laptop drive with a stuck spindle trying to spin up.
Toshiba
The sound of failed laptop hard drive bearings.
The sound of worn laptop hard drive bearings.
The sound of wedged bearings on a laptop hard drive.
Fujitsu
Worn laptop hard drive heads.
Faulty laptop hard drive heads.
The sound of worn out plates of a computer hard drive.
Quantum
Faulty head unit.
What to do if the hard drive starts making extraneous sounds
- First of all, make sure that the hard drive is the source of the emitted sound.
- After you make sure that it is the hard drive that is making the sounds that bother you, run the hard drive diagnostic utility. You can use both those supplied by manufacturers with the device, and from third party manufacturers. Just keep in mind that in best case The diagnostic utility will detect and limit the use of bad sectors of the hard disk, which may be the cause of incorrect or unstable work disk. If there are mechanical damage or wear of the hard drive - it is impossible to fix them programmatically.
- If nothing has changed in the operation of the disk after using the diagnostic software, it is recommended to immediately create a copy of the data of such a hard disk or its image for further restoration.
How to create an image of a failed or damaged disk using Hetman Partition Recovery. - If, as a result of using a diagnostic or repair software the sounds of the hard disk have partially or completely disappeared, then there may be bad sectors on it. In this case, it is still recommended to create a backup of all data on the hard disk and think about replacing it, since bad sectors may continue to appear on the disk and this will eventually lead to data loss or failure.
Other Sounds Your Computer Can Make
The hard drive is not the only device in the computer that is capable of making sound. It can also be a power supply, cooler, CD / DVD drive, or other devices connected to it. SSD drives don't make any sound because they don't have moving parts. Therefore, before taking any action, it is important to correctly identify the source of the sound.
If the computer is performing some complex tasks or running a resource-intensive game, it will be normal if the computer starts to work louder - the computer coolers will spin faster to cool it down. Sometimes, a dirty or broken cooler makes more noise than other devices.
Clang, ringing, crackling, whistling, squeaking, etc. in a car? You don't know what happened? Do not worry. Here's to you incomprehensible sounds that can occur when a particular part of the vehicle malfunctions.
10) Exhaust heat shield rattle
Did you hear a rattle or rattle that comes from under the car? It is more likely that this element of thermal protection exhaust system which loosened up over time. Of course, such a sound may indicate that the exhaust system is damaged or rusted somewhere, but most often such a sound is due to play in the exhaust system mount or a loose heat shield bracket.
9) Exhaust leak
If your car makes a consistent whistling noise that comes from the side of the car from below, comes from under it, or it seems that your car has become louder, then there is most likely a leak in the car's exhaust system.
If the vehicle's exhaust system is damaged and there is a leak exhaust gases, then you should not delay the repair, as the extra traffic fumes can enter the cabin and cause harm to you and your passengers.
In addition, if you delay the repair, the amount of damage to the exhaust system will become larger over time, and it is quite possible that you will have to fork out for an expensive replacement part of the exhaust system. If you take the car for repair as soon as possible, then you may simply weld the place of the exhaust leak by welding.
Also remember that depressurization of the exhaust system can lead to a drop in pressure and a decrease in its power.
8) Squealing when pressing the clutch pedal
If your machine is equipped mechanical box gears and when you press the clutch pedal you hear a squeal, then most likely the clutch basket release bearing in your car has worn out. If you observe such a strange sound, which is not characteristic of the normal operation of all vehicle systems, then be sure to check the condition of the clutch.
It is important to know:
Remember that failure release bearing, can lead to inoperability of the manual transmission clutch element.
7) Whining sound of the power steering pump
If you hear that while driving from any wheel there is a rumble, then the probable cause is bearing wear. If this is true, then remember that the bearings must be changed in pairs. That is, if the rumble in any wheel is associated with a malfunction of the hub bearing, then when replacing it, it is necessary to change the bearing in the other wheel.
Be aware that worn bearings can make a whine or hum that should be coming from the car's wheel. Also note that the higher the speed of the car, the louder the hum or howl.
In order to distinguish the hum or howl from the noise of the wheels, it is necessary to change lanes several times from one lane to another. If the howling sound has not changed somewhat during maneuvering, then most likely the reason is a strange sound in the hub bearing.
5) Crunch when shifting gears
If your car is equipped with a manual transmission, and when shifting gears you hear a grinding sound, despite the fact that the clutch pedal is fully depressed, then the probable cause is worn synchronizers in the gearbox.
4) Tie rod end clang
There are two ways to test for a tie rod end failure. The first way is to rotate the steering wheel from the position of 9-00 to 15-00 hours and back. When turning the steering wheel, listen for extraneous sounds. If, while turning the steering wheel, you hear extraneous sounds (for example, clanging), then the tie rod end is most likely worn out.
Another way to check for tie rod wear is to sit in front of the wheel with your feet as shown in the video and apply pressure on the wheel to try to rock the wheel. If as a result of this check you find play in the wheel, then get ready to change the tie rod end.
3) Clicks when starting the ignition
If your car won't start and you only hear clicks, then check the condition of your battery. It is possible that the cause of the failure to start the engine was bad contact battery terminals. If all contacts are in order, then in 99 percent of cases, the cause of clicks when starting the engine is a discharged battery.
2) The sound of detonation of the engine connecting rod
This sound, which can come from under the hood, is rare, but it does occur when the engine wears out. Especially often with this crackling under the hood when the engine is running, owners of Subaru cars meet.
If your car makes this noise when the engine is running, then the likely cause is a worn connecting rod in the engine. Watch the video for an example. It is noteworthy that on dashboard did not catch fire, despite the fact that the breakdown is serious and requires overhaul power unit.
1) Squeaking or clanging while driving
Then your suspension is exposed rapid wear. Most often, the rubber bushings of the suspension elements (silent blocks) fail. As a rule, when the silent block wears out on a rough road, you will hear a creak. Do not worry. Is not serious breakdown and is easy enough to fix.
What to do if the car knocks, rustles or rattles on bumps? For what malfunctions do you need to urgently go to the service station, and when can you fix the breakdown yourself?
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What does the sound say
The sound of a serviceable car should not cause discomfort. Any unpleasant noise signals that one of the components or assemblies is not working properly. You need to respond to the symptoms immediately - one breakdown pulls another.
A knock is a backlash formed in a node, which arises from natural wear and tear. Noise - from rubbing parts. Noises and knocks are very similar. Often they are summed up, for example, faulty ball joints and backlash in the bearings of the front hubs.
To determine the location of noise and / or knocking, you must first determine which side it comes from. If you have already established the approximate location of noises, then finding them will be much easier. It will also help to observe what the sound is synchronized with and under what conditions it occurs.
Rear suspension
Traction rear axle . On rear wheel drive vehicles when starting off and braking, a knock is often heard due to bushing wear. Or after a sharp press on the gas pedal back the car pulls a little to the side - the direction of the car has to be corrected by the steering wheel. Faulty traction must be replaced.
Rear brakes. When you press the brake pedal, do you hear a noise or does the whole body vibrate? This frequent malfunction characteristic of wet weather. This is usually due to a thin layer of corrosion, dirt on the pads or inner surface. brake drums. In this case, try to drive a hundred meters with the handbrake slightly extended - the layer of corrosion will disappear as a result of friction.
Front suspension: problems
If faulty CV joints, then when turning, clicks are clearly audible. Especially if you turn the steering wheel from side to side at idle. Need an urgent replacement.
half shafts. Faulty if the rumble increases with increasing speed. The axle shaft itself does not fail, but it has weakness- bearing. It is necessary to repress it within 2-3 weeks or replace it together with the axle shaft.
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wheel bearings. Front hub bearings make rattling and/or noise. Knock comes from excessive play in the bearings, and noise is due to wear on the treadmill of the separators and bearing rollers. It is easy to make a diagnosis yourself. To do this, jack left side auto (you will still do this soon when replacing summer tires for winter) and turn the wheel sharply by hand. If there is a hum similar to the noise of a metal ball rolling on a sheet of metal, the bearing needs to be replaced. Now, with your left hand, grasp the top inner part wheels, and right - for the lower outer. Rock the wheel "for a break". If it even "hangs" slightly, you need to contact the service station to eliminate the backlash in the hub bearing.
ball joints. In the event of a malfunction, they knock or creak when driving over bumps and on uneven roads. As soon as possible, you need to replace them at the nearest service station, otherwise the car will stand in the middle of the road with an unnaturally turned-out wheel.
Steering. Let's start with the gearbox, which sometimes knocks due to wear. main couple(a worm-roller appears) and creaks when the steering wheel is turned to different sides. In most cases, the problem is solved by adjusting and lubricating the steering shaft.
But the tie rods and tips have a knock like ball bearings, and it manifests itself only on rough roads. These items need to be changed urgently.
shock absorbers they usually do not annoy with their “sounds”, but if they are, then they are well heard on a rough road: they knock and creak. Their disease is the wear of rubber bushings, pillows, oil leakage. Rock the car and listen for knocks. You can immediately determine the wear of the bushings and pillows - the body will continue to sway even after you have stopped the impact. Riding on such shock absorbers is dangerous when you sharply apply the brakes. stopping way will double.
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Oil may leak in the shock absorber, which can be seen with the naked eye (smudges and adhering dirt will be visible on the body). This shock absorber needs to be replaced.
brakes. The pads sometimes whistle when exposed to the pedal, to the point that a rattle is heard. If they are new, then most likely they simply did not get used, and the sound will disappear on its own after 1-2 thousand km. But there is a possibility that they are simply defective (curves). Therefore, if the sound does not disappear after a while, and the car changes its trajectory during braking (it pulls to the left or right), the pads need to be replaced. On cars that are expensive to maintain, they are expensive (more than $ 100), so there is a second way - they rent brake disk and grind on the machine, and the pads are processed using a grinding wheel (such a procedure costs about 150-200 UAH).
Springs. bad sound rubbing against each other metal parts car also often emit springs. The reason lies in the incorrect installation - you need to contact those who installed them - to fix the problem.
Malfunctions in the engine compartment
Generator belt. The malfunction gives itself out as a piercing squeal after starting the engine or with a sharp increase in speed. To stop it, the belt must be tightened. Did it not help or did the sound return after a while? Change to a new one.
water pump. Faulty if Idling from the front engine compartment a rumble and/or a thin whistle is heard. In this case, it must be replaced.
