With the onset of cold weather, the State Duma refused to accept (the proposal was considered at the beginning of this year). The reason is that in the southern regions of the country such a law cannot be called necessary.
But with practice, drivers know that summer tires “dube”, sharply lose their grip, and it becomes dangerous to ride it already at near-zero temperatures, more precisely already at +7 degrees. And it is so cool in almost all regions. Winter wheels are kept on cold asphalt and on slippery surface. Even in severe frosts, they retain elasticity, and still row in the snow, because the depth of their tread pattern is never less than 3 mm.
Did the deputies get excited? The question arises as we look back at the example of many countries with comparable climates. But more on that below.
Change? With no doubt!
WITH summer wheels in the cold season it is unreasonable to hope for "maybe" - it will not carry through. On an icy road braking distances at least 8 times longer than dry. Even if your car has a 4x4 drive, but on summer tires, That good grip don't expect a canvas from her. Moreover, on slippery surfaces all-wheel drive car behave less predictably than monoprivodnoe. And do not listen to the know-it-alls who assure that it is enough to install winter tires only on the drive wheels: drifts, drifts and “pirouettes” cannot be avoided.
Choose tires depending on which roads you mainly travel on. Friction (they are also called "Velcro") are most suitable for driving on packed snow and shurga, studded - if in your area on the roads there is most often an ice crust ("on studs" the braking distance is shortened from 20 to 50%). "Behind the wheel" tested many times
Do not consider buying an additional set of wheels for the cold half of the year a waste. Firstly, they cost about the same as summer wheels. And it is clear that while "working" alone ( winter tires serves 3-4 seasons), others are not consumed. And secondly, about spending: with tenacious tires, you are much more insured against the cost of repairing a dented body. And, perhaps most importantly, you increase your own safety and the safety of others.
The image of a snow star on the sidewall means that this tire is designed for use in harsh conditions. winter conditions- according to the composition of the material from which it is made, and the tread pattern. Wheels for winter driving may also be designated differently, depending on the predominant condition of the roads on which you drive on such tires. The letters on the sidewalls "M + S" stand for Mad + Snow, that is, mud and snow. You can see the inscription Winter - winter. These are the most common markings on winter tires. If you want to learn more about them, take a look at the guides for motorists.
The image of a snow star on the sidewall means that this tire is designed for operation in severe winter conditions - in terms of the composition of the material from which it is made and the tread pattern. Wheels for winter driving may also be designated differently, depending on the predominant condition of the roads on which you drive on such tires. The letters on the sidewalls "M + S" stand for Mad + Snow, that is, mud and snow. You can see the inscription Winter - winter. These are the most common markings on winter tires. If you want to learn more about them, take a look at the guides for motorists.
Even in warm places
Let's turn to the European experience of "tire" rules (which, however, may change).
- Germany
For the fifth year in this country, a ban on the use of summer tires from December 1st to April 1st. The fine for violation is 20 euros. When the police find out that due to the slip of the car on the “off-season” tires, a traffic jam has formed on the highway, the violator will be charged twice as much. And if the car is damaged, Insurance Company the right to reduce the amount of payments or even refuse it in full.
- Finland
The same ban is in place here. Its time frame is subject to change, depending on weather conditions.
- Lithuania
- Latvia
"Curfew" - from December 1 to February 29. The Latvian law does not contain the wording "winter tires", however it is said that the tread depth cannot be less than 3 mm. But the essence is the same.
- Norway
In this corner of Scandinavia, there is no total requirement “to wear shoes only for the season”, however, drivers are obliged to install rubber with a tread depth of the same 3 mm or more, according to the condition of the surface. The police are empowered to decide causes of road accidents not according to universal criteria, but by assessing the degree of driver's guilt in each specific case. Which, of course, affects the amount of insurance payments.
- Slovenia
The country prohibits driving on summer tires from November 15 to March 15, however, it is allowed to install winter tires only on the drive wheels. But we must understand that the climate in the country is milder than in the northern states. And it should be noted: autotourists from other countries do not make concessions.
Winter ... The driver, triumphant, renews the way on the car ... Indeed, thanks to bad weather and the sluggishness of road services, motorists even in major cities it is difficult to make your way through the snow. But such a ride, as we remember from the course driving lessons, is fraught with some troubles. What is the danger of driving in deep snow, and how to drive in winter if the snow has just fallen?
Danger at every turn
Anything can hide under the snow: potholes, large pits, curbs, all kinds of stones.
In deep snow, you can easily get stuck in such a way that you cannot do without the help of towing. Autoinstructors in their classes they warn their students that there are three states of "dangerous" snow:
"Puffy"
This is freshly fallen snow, very loose and not dense. If there is a lot of it, then it is better to overcome such an obstacle at speed, maintaining inertia. Snow easily scatters to the sides, and it is easy to pass the obstacle.
Heavy and wet snow
This is where tire pressure comes in handy. 0.7-1 atmospheres is enough (we look from the situation) for the car to easily drive on such snow.
While driving on such a surface, a considerable rolling resistance of the wheels is created, so the car quickly loses acceleration. Therefore, you should choose optimal mode engine operation and such a transmission as to at least slightly compensate for the resistance and prevent wheel slip. It is better to move, so to speak, in tightness, “treading” the track. Thus, you will feel how the car behaves, its engine, wheels and other structural elements directly involved in such a difficult task.
Did you feel that the car is somehow heavy, starts to stall? Be sure to stop, but do not use the brakes.
On an automatic transmission, it is enough to take your foot off the gas, and on the mechanics, squeeze the clutch. Pull back, if necessary, get out of the car and see what exactly is bothering you. Then the second attempt, the third and so on. Moving back and forth forms a track, along which it will be easier to drive.
It is especially important to prevent the wheels from slipping, otherwise the car will start to get stuck, and the already knurled layer will break off. It is recommended to start driving when the front wheels are straight ahead. Try to keep the rear ones on the track trodden by the front ones. This will reduce rolling resistance. But the turns should be calculated so that they have the maximum possible radius. So, rear wheels will pass along the front track.
Nast and grits
Exactly this dangerous state snow. You need to move along it very carefully, and with flat tires, up to 0.3 atm. It is better to move forward and backward, clearing your way. Nast creates more resistance, and the grip of the wheels is minimal.
The best option for movement is in pairs, when the first car serves as a kind of ram, and the second as insurance, that is, it pulls the first back.
Driving rules
Alternately engage reverse and forward gears, gradually clearing your way with the wheels. If you need to turn, then follow the following rules:
- Approach the turn in a straight line.
- The steering wheel needs to be turned a little in the direction opposite to the turn, and then drive back. At this stage, half of each wheel of the machine should pass already on the rolled track, while the second half expands this track.
- Then we turn the steering wheel a little already in the direction of the turn and go forward. The rolled track is expanding.
- Repeat the previous two steps until we pass the turn.
Video on how to ride in deep snow:
Easy and calm road for you!
Image taken from club-picanto.ru
Driving on snow is the most difficult thing in off-road practice.
I'm serious.Three tips for your ride:
1. The wheels must be blown off, increasing the contact patch. To the bare minimum you agree to. Be aware of the likelihood of disassembly. Check pump performance and spare tire life.
2. Don't forget the shovel. This is the only means that allows you to ride on _any_ snow.
3. A typical and main problem when driving on snow is starting off.
It is necessary to accurately dose the moment on the wheels, avoiding wheel slip, gradually picking up speed.
On regular wheels And standard engines- it's very hard. the speed of rotation of the wheels is high, the wheels are narrow, the rolling resistance of "asphalt" rubber is very small.
As a result - an instant breakdown of the wheels into slippage ...Snow is overcome in two ways:
1. Digging up to the "hard" and riding on it.
Realistically, with snow depth somewhere up to half the wheel.
If there is more snow, then a car of the weight of an escuda / niva will begin to float in such snow, resting against the snow with a small gap. who rakes under himself.
With such a ride, the car that wins:
a) has large gaps (less drag snow dump)
b) has fewer "perpendicular body/transmission elements".
Those. there is nothing under the bottom that the snow cannot roll over and that it will rest against.
According to these criteria, the regular Suzuka is much inferior to the field.2. Swim on the surface.
To do this, it is necessary that the force pushing to the surface be greater than the pressure of the wheels on the snow.
This can be achieved by installing very wide and toothed wheels (which, in your case, is unrealistic) or by gaining high speed (this is already real).
Those. gradually accelerate and try to keep the speed constant in the region of 10-20 km / h.
At such speeds, snow is passed, in which you simply cannot start (the frontal resistance is greater than the traction developed by the wheels before they break into slip).Basic traffic rules:
1. Try to prevent wheel slip at low speeds. in such a situation, the tread makes holes in the snow, which you still do not have enough momentum to overcome and you will stop.
You may not be able to move out of them.
2. To fly over crossings, clearings, clearings, moldings and other areas of deep snow only in motion, gaining the MAXIMUM speed possible for these conditions PRELIMINARY.
There is always more snow in open areas and it is usually loose (i.e., the traction developed by wheels, especially asphalt ones, is minimal on it)
As a rule, stopping or slowing down in such areas leads to a long use of the shovel.
If you're stuck in the middle of a field, they probably won't be able to pull you either. they will also stick, and even if they can start off on their own, then there may not be enough traction for a jerk.
When flying deep snow, your benefit is that you have a machine gun. which shifts gears without losing traction.
Those. you accelerate, slipper on the floor and flew.
3. Stop only in those places where you can start.
Those. in the forest, in areas of swept land, hard crust.
4. If you need to move off the road in the forest (give way, turn around, etc.), then you need to do this quickly, immediately and in one pass.
It is advisable to find a place where you can drive in one sitting on one continuous path.
Actions: you accelerate, jump out onto pure snow, fly along the trajectory and jump out onto the road in one sitting.
If there is more than half of the wheel off the road, then it may simply not work to turn around in several stages - you will sit down as soon as the car stops.
5. Avoid driving on different heights. Pass obstacles of different heights.
Those. driving off the road, overcoming ruts, paths, snowmobile roads and driving back onto the road on foot.
The snow grip is very small and the slightest skew will lead to a diagonal (i.e. we are not going anywhere).
6. If there are no options (it’s bad everywhere, but you have to drive), then it’s better to stop on even snow.
Those. on the most loose, without ruts and crust.
It will be the easiest to dig out of this.
Stop "partially", i.e. half in snow, half on the road, not allowed on roads/paths/snowmobile ruts. In 90% of cases, when you try to move, you will find yourself in a diagonal.
7. It is better to stop "from the hill".
Those. so that when starting off your car at least a little but went downhill.
Stopping "uphill" can lead to the fact that you can only go backwards.
The most ambush stop is in the ravine, when both forward and back "uphill".
A shovel will help, but it can be very long.
8. If you feel that the car is sitting down (you press the slipper, but the car slows down on the contrary), then in this case you must immediately throw off the gas.
The idea is to disconnect the engine from the transmission.
I don't know how to do it automatically.
The idea is that a car moving by inertia compacts the snow in front of it and under the wheels, increasing the likelihood later, after a complete stop, to leave this place at least back.
After such a stop, go ONLY back.
9. In doubtful situations, always start back first and then, gaining speed, break forward.
Behind the snow is already scattered to the size of the gaps and going back, as a rule, is easier.
10. If you go back to then break forward, then it is useless to pass centimeters.
You need to ride until you pass to a horizontal section, climb backwards up a hill or leave deep snow at all.
Once again, turning back 10-20 meters is more useful than blinking to the diagonal in one place.
It'll work out faster.
11. If the car stopped uphill, then do not even try to move forward or with a slight acceleration.
Roll down to the bottom and make a new attempt to overcome the slope in one go.
The exception is long slides, where it may take tens or hundreds of meters to take back.
In such cases, look at the situation.
Sometimes it’s easier to go around such a hill for a few kilometers than to break into it for several hours.Rules for following in a group
1. Always wait for the front car to pass the obstacle before climbing it yourself.
Otherwise, you can sit down yourself and lock the front car.
Deadlock from which only a shovel will save.
2. Always leave the car at such a distance from the front that there is a place to turn back to a "favorable" place (beginning of a slope, a flat place without snow, etc.)
3. Before you go by car to "rescue" a comrade - think hard. digging out two sitting cars is at least twice as much work with a shovel.
4. Try to always keep at least one car "on the move".
In case of breakdown of the rest, some emergencies and the like must always have a means by which it will be possible to escape from the forest.
Those. if three cars drive, two villages, then do not touch the third at all - let it stand in the place where it can drive and save the first two with shovels.
5. If you are not forced to stop (there is nowhere to go after the ambush slips through), then always stop so that the car can then go.
It is better not to reach the place of interest for several meters than to dig out later after an unsuccessful attempt to start.Things and equipment
I think that you yourself understand that trains in the WINTER to the forest are such a thing ... you can also move horses.
Just in case:
1. Have a double supply of warm clothes with you, which should be wrapped so that they are guaranteed to remain dry in any conditions.
2. Have at least a small supply of fuel with you.
In which case, an attempt to make a fire with "matches" from a frozen tree may not work.
The easiest way is to take with you a couple of bags of coal for barbecue and a couple of cans of ignition for them.
There is little weight, but it can be ignited both in the open wind and on bare snow.
3. It is desirable to have some kind of spare parts for the car.
The composition of the spare parts kit depends on the condition of the machine and your familiarity with its features.
But, even if you think that your car is ideal, it does not hurt to have: brake fluid, antifreeze, a couple of packages of "cold welding", a couple of repair kits tubeless tires and a can of gasoline.
4. The basic rule of traveling through the forest in winter: if you sat down and the prospects to get out in soon foggy, then the first thing to make a fire. It will come in handy right now or not - business 10th, but when it is urgently needed it can be even late (dark, very cold, etc.)
5. Gasoline do not spare.
If it is cold outside, then do not turn off the car, do not turn off the stove, so that there is always an opportunity to warm up.
Gasoline will count when you successfully get home.Well, something like this, I hope you don't get bored :)
PS: Whether and when to turn on the reduced one - decide for yourself according to the circumstance.
Choose what will allow you to start and accelerate in your specific conditions.
On the mechanics, for example, in loose snow and regular wheels, a reduced nafik is not needed - it is impossible to gain speed.
Finally we waited for snow and frost. And no matter how much the city authorities claim that they are ready for winter season(I mean snow on the roads), anyway - the snow fell out of the blue, and it started ... Kilometer-long traffic jams at almost every intersection, accidents, nerves, the hum of signals, and so on ... I looked at all this and decided to write some tips for motorists on how to drive a car in winter.
At the onset of darkness, the driver's view always wants to leave the best, especially when it is already dark, but the lights have not yet turned on. When driving, often the glare from the headlights of oncoming cars makes you squint and lose sight of the road for a second. Or the glass of the car, fogged up from the inside, and the light of oncoming cars makes it impossible to see at all. In order not to be blinded by oncoming cars, buy yourself car glasses (the cost is from 150 hryvnias). Glasses remove glare from drops, improve visibility, increase image contrast, block reflected light.
You should also keep windows and mirrors clean. So that there are no stains on the glass from the inside, it is necessary to wipe it with soapy water or table salt. Then the glass inside will always be clean and will not fog up.
At low temperatures undiluted washer fluid concentrate should be poured into the windshield washer reservoir (from 25 hryvnia per 1 liter of fluid with frost resistance up to -20 degrees).
Change the route of movement - along the usual route, the driver drives almost “on autopilot” and loses vigilance and attentiveness. Changing the route makes you pack up and be more attentive.
A lot of people keep the same speed in winter and summer, a habit, I guess. So, the driver, who is used to keeping the same speed, inadequately assesses the traffic situation and coverage. As a rule, in the first days of snowfall and bad road speed must be reduced by 20-30 km / h.
Also an important component of safe movement on the road is the distance between cars. Do not forget about the need to hold it, and when slippery road- increase.
If the car has ABS, you need to strongly press the brake pedal (the electronics will do the rest for the driver).
If the car is without ABS, it is necessary to brake by pressing the brake pedal several times: this is how the driver imitates the action anti-lock braking system wheels.
It is also important to know about engine braking - by downshifting, you reduce the likelihood of the drive wheels locking up when braking. If a car with automatic transmission gears, it is necessary to brake the engine by switching the gearbox selector from the Drive position to the N position.
Often, entering a turn on high speed causes the vehicle to skid and serious accidents. So it is better to prevent this skid. Of course, the driver can rely on the fact that he will be helped by counter-emergency driving techniques. However, it is worth remembering that they bear fruit if they are worked out in practice for several hours on a special site, and bare theory will not play a decisive role in a dangerous situation.
So, remember: when entering a turn, you need to slow down and shift to a lower gear and in no case apply the brakes - you will definitely skid.
Very often, accidents involving pedestrians occur in the early morning or evening, when the lights are turned off (or they have not yet been turned on). So remember, at the entrance to the transition, especially in dark time day or twilight, it is better to move your foot from the gas pedal to the brake, regardless of whether there is a pedestrian there or not (you never know).
The main rule for the driver is when approaching pedestrian crossing, slow down!!!
So, before entering deep snow you don’t need to immediately give gas and fly in “at the very least I don’t want to” and until it gets completely stuck. It is necessary to “tread down the snow”, drive a little forward, back out, then forward again, but drive further, etc. The same should be done at the entrance to the parking lot, if there is untouched snow. It is much easier to get out of the "trodden" snow.
If you nevertheless drove in and got stuck in a snowdrift, or drove onto the ice and the car doesn’t want to leave in any way, front wheel drive car mobile, you can turn the steering wheel in different sides while lightly pressing the gas pedal.
Remember!!! If you accelerate hard in the snow, the car will definitely dig.
If this technique did not help or the car has a rear-wheel drive:
- on manual box gears - it is necessary to give the car a buildup, that is, in first gear we try to drive forward a little, at the peak of the car’s rise we press the clutch and the car rolls back (if you are confident in your reaction speed, you can quickly turn on reverse gear and press the gas a little for a greater pendulum effect), at the peak of the rollback, we again lightly give gas and drive forward (the procedure usually helps).
- on the automatic gearbox - we do the same, but here it is necessary to catch the moment of buildup and carefully adjust the speed of rotation of the drive axle in order to avoid digging into the snow.
Remember! When swinging the car, you need to keep the wheels straight!
Take with you some sand in the trunk, a shovel and a hatchet (with a hatchet you can make cuts on slippery ice if sand doesn't help). Personally, I have the whole set in the trunk. To be honest, I have not yet had a chance to use it, but if anything, then I will be fully armed. Also, to get out of the snowdrift and ice, you can put floor mats under the wheels. The main thing is to pick them up later, not forgetting in the snow.
Lifting must be carried out on high speed. If you start climbing at high speed, then the car simply does not have enough grip, and it will skid. If possible, then the rise should not be made directly at 90 degrees, but slightly to the side. This will distribute the load on the wheels more evenly, and give the wheels more grip. If on a front-wheel drive car it was not possible to enter the hill in front, then you can try to do it backwards. Experts say that this technique helps in many cases.
When descending from a snow-covered hill, you need to switch to a lower gear and in no case to “neutral” (when descending without a gear engaged, the likelihood of the car skidding increases many times). Downshift will create additional blocking of wheels. At the end of the descent, without disengaging the gear, press the brake pedal several times, and when the descent is completed, gently press the gas.
Ideally, it is better not to fall into a rut. But if there is no other way to drive, it is worth remembering that in a rut it is necessary to move not quickly, if an obstacle arises on the road, then it is better to look for a more convenient exit in advance. When leaving the track, it is necessary to slow down, turn the steering wheel in the direction of the turn and give a little gas. However, be prepared for the wheels to lock up and the car to skid.
If the track is very slippery, you must first turn the steering wheel slightly in the other direction from the desired side of the exit, and then quickly turn in the direction we need (we give the car a buildup). The main thing in this maneuver is not to overdo it with a sharp inversion and not to break the car into a skid.
Much easier for drivers vehicles with an ESP system exchange rate stability car), where the computer monitors and helps the driver to prevent the car from falling into a skid.
But still, as they say, God saves the safe. Remember, it's best to slow down and be prepared for extreme situation rather than relying entirely on a computer.
Tip nine. Visit the school of counter-emergency driving
Lessons at school extreme driving give both the novice and experienced driver a set of very important knowledge and skills that will be useful in an emergency situation.
The first question that arises in a person who decides to study at such a school is: what car to study on - his own or instructor's? Experienced drivers it is advised to choose the second option, since the chassis own car, brakes and tires will be healthier.
Before starting classes, an experienced coach must definitely look at and evaluate the skills of a new student and select an individual training program for him. After that, the student on the site works out the following exercises:
- speed steering,
- emergency braking,
- emergency avoidance of obstacles,
- fast cornering,
- parking in narrow spaces.
Below is a list of some Kyiv schools, their contacts and helpful information for those who decide to take a course of counter-emergency driving.
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In many countries of the world, with the advent of winter, it becomes more difficult traffic situation the previous one, as everyone has already guessed, with precipitation in the form of snow. Many of the motorists do not like this time of year, as it is directly related to both snowy roads and increased consumption fuel and of course with ice. Some of the motorists with the onset of winter completely refuse to operate their cars for this period of time. . In this situation, the owners of SUVs and all-wheel drive autocrossovers are in a more advantageous position. But still these cars vehicles not ideal for riding them in the snow. There are many other different vehicles in the world for driving on a snowy road or in general on snow. Dear readers, selected (selected) for you the most the best views, which are great for driving on snowy roads and can easily cope with them. 10) Tucker Sno-Cat.
It's a kind of can be said, which is designed to move through the snow. This type of vehicle is great for driving on snow-covered mountain slopes (for example, in ski resorts), or it will become indispensable assistant on an expedition to winter period into the mountains, where are the usual simple cars on their usual rubber (tires) they will not be able to just drive. This type of vehicle can easily take you wherever you want. 9) Tatra Aeroluge.
During the Second World War, by order of the German (German) army, the Tatra T87 was upgraded to move on it in the snow. Instead of simple wheels, skis were installed on the car, and a real propeller appeared in the back of it. 8) Team of Husky dogs.
If a team of Husky dogs is able to pass through winter time from edge to edge throughout Alaska, then they will not have any problems (for a team) to do this in any place on the globe where a fierce and harsh winter rages. This is the most charming and amazingly beautiful way to "defeat" snowdrifts. The most reliable existing today in the world. 7) RaptorTRAX.
Any 4x4 off-road vehicle, if it replaces its wheels (tires) with snow tracks, will be able to move freely along snow-covered roads or fields. This can be done especially easily by a modified SUV car. So who said that snowy roads and harsh winters a bad season? 6) Terra Bus.
These buses off-road used in Antarctica to transport people from the airport to the polar bases. You, your friends, understand that such equipment not only has to withstand ultra-low temperatures, but it must also be ready to withstand snow storms and strong winds. And all this thanks to its design and huge wheels whose diameter is 1.87 meters. 5) Volvo BV202.
The BV 202 is ready to practically conquer any snow obstacles in its path. This is due to its special design, which was invented by engineers. Such equipment is simply indispensable for expeditions and for driving along the roads of the Far North. mechanical box gear and four-wheel drive such a vehicle will not let you down in the most difficult moment. It is noteworthy that rear end machines can be modified (converted) into a body with open top to transform from a "rider" into a sailing vessel. 4) All-terrain vehicle - Arktos ship.
This all-terrain vehicle - the Arktos ship is capable of performing in extreme weather conditions various tasks. For example, it can put out fires or evacuate vehicles both in the Sahara desert and at the north pole of Antarctica. So, if there is a similar tow truck near you, then you can no longer be afraid and chew for being stuck somewhere in an impenetrable impassable place and there will be no one to help you. This technique will be able to sneak (drive up) or sail anywhere in any weather conditions. 3) Lockheed LC-130.
In a word, this is not an airplane, but some kind of "rocket", which is not only super powerful, but also capable of flying on wings to places where no one in the world can get and get on the ground motor vehicle. Due to the special design of the landing gear, this aircraft can land and take off from the ground completely covered with snow. 2) Screw self-propelled vehicles.
Surely you have never seen such vehicles before. Even in the Far North, such equipment is quite rare, although the very design of the machine allows it (the tractor) to move on any roads and in any weather conditions. Even in the event that winter drifts on the roads are higher than 2 - 3 meters, this screw machine is able to slowly and confidently lay right way through these terrible snowdrifts. 1) M67 flamethrower tank.
What could be the best way to get around on a snowy road? You are right, of course, a tank, but not a simple one. For example, a tank that can shoot fire (flamethrower). capable of not only paving the way through impenetrable snowdrifts, but also capable of completely burning everything in its path. Related Articles
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