We collect internal combustion engines. Homemade engine: purpose, device and principle of operation

Homemade engine can be made in several ways. Let's start the review with the bipolar or stepper version, which is a double pole electric motor without brushes. He has nutrition direct current, divides a full turn into equal parts. For the operation of this device, a special controller is required. In addition, the design of the device includes a winding, magnetic elements, transmitters, signaling devices and a control unit with a dashboard. The main purpose of the unit is the arrangement of milling and grinding machines, as well as ensuring the operation of various household, industrial and transport mechanisms.

Motor types

A homemade engine can have several configurations. Among them:

• Variants with permanent magnet.
• Combined synchronous model.
• Variable engine.

The drive with a permanent magnet is equipped with a main element in the rotor part. The functioning of such devices is based on the principle of attraction or repulsion between the stator and the rotor of the device. Such a stepper motor is equipped with a rotor part made of iron. The principle of its operation is based on a fundamental basis, according to which, the maximum allowable repulsion is carried out with a minimum clearance. This contributes to the attraction of the rotor points to the stator poles. Combined devices combine both options.

Another option is two-phase motors. step type. The device is simple design, can have two types of winding, easy to install in the required place.

Monopolar modifications

A self-made engine of this type consists of a single winding and a central magnetic valve that affects all phases. Each winding compartment is activated to provide a specific magnetic field. Since in such a circuit the pole is able to function without additional switching, switching the path and direction of the current has an elementary device. For standard motor with an average power, one transistor is enough, provided in the equipment of each winding. Typical Circuit a two-phase motor involves six wires on the output signal and three similar elements on the phase.

The machine's microcontroller can be used to activate the transistor in an automatically determined sequence. In this case, the windings are connected by connecting the output wires and permanent magnet. When the coil terminals interact, the shaft is blocked for turning. The resistance between the common wire and the end of the coil is proportional to the same aspect between the ends of the wiring. In this regard, the length of the common wire is twice as long as the connecting half of the coil.

Bipolar Options

Homemade stepper motor This type is equipped with one phase winding. The flow of current into it is carried out in a turning way with the help of a magnetic pole, which causes the complication of the circuit. It usually aggregates with a connecting bridge. There are a couple of extra wires that are not shared. When mixing the signal of such a motor at higher frequencies, the friction efficiency of the system decreases.

Three-phase analogues with a narrow specialization are also being created. They are used in the design of CNC machines, as well as in some automotive on-board computers and printers.

Device and principle of operation

When voltage is applied to the terminals, the brushes of the motor are driven into continuous rotation. Installation on Idling is unique in that it converts incoming pulses to a predetermined position of an existing drive shaft.

Any pulse signal acts on the shaft at a specific angle. Such a gearbox is most effective if a number of magnetic teeth are placed around a central toothed iron rod or its equivalent. The electric magnets are activated by an external control circuit consisting of a micro regulator. To start turning the motor shaft, one active electromagnet attracts the teeth of the wheel to its surface. When they are aligned with the host, they move slightly towards the next magnetic part.

In a stepper motor, the first magnet must turn on and the next element must turn off. As a result, the gear will begin to rotate, gradually aligning with the previous wheel. The process is repeated alternately the required number of times. Such revolutions are called "constant step". The speed of rotation of the motor can be determined by counting the number of steps for a complete revolution of the unit.

Connection

The connection of a do-it-yourself mini-engine is carried out according to a certain scheme. The main attention is drawn to the number of drive wires, as well as the purpose of the device. Stepper motors can be equipped with 4, 5, 6 or 8 wires. The modification with four wiring elements can only be operated with a bipolar device. Any phase winding has two wires. To determine the required connection length in a step-by-step mode, it is recommended to use a regular meter, which allows you to accurately set the required parameter.

The powerful six-wire motor has a pair of wires for each winding and a centering cock that can be connected to a mono or bipolar device. For aggregation with a single fixture, all six wires are used, and for a paired analog, one end of the wire and the central tap of each winding will be enough.

with your own hands?

To create an elementary motor, you will need a piece of magnet, a drill, fluoroplastic, copper wire, a microchip, a wire. Instead of a magnet, you can use an unnecessary cell phone vibrating alert.

A drill is used as a part of rotation, since the tool fits optimally technical parameters. If the inner radius of the magnet does not match the same aspect of the shaft, copper wire can be used, wound in such a way as to eliminate shaft play. This operation makes it possible to increase the diameter of the shaft at the point of connection with the rotor.

In the future, creating a home-made engine, you will need to make bushings from fluoroplastic. To do this, take the prepared sheet and make a hole with a diameter of 3 mm. Then design the spigot. The shaft must be ground to a diameter that allows free movement. This will avoid excessive friction.

final stage

Next, the coils are wound. The frame of the required size is clamped in a yew. To wind 60 turns, you need 0.9 meters of wire. After the procedure, the coil is treated with an adhesive composition. This delicate procedure is best done with a microscope or magnifying glass. After each double winding, a drop of glue is introduced between the sleeve and the wire. One edge of each winding is soldered together, which will make it possible to obtain a single node with a pair of outputs that are soldered to the microchip.

Technical plan parameters

DIY mini motor, depending on design features, may have various characteristics. Below are the parameters of the most popular step modifications:

1. ShD-1 - has a step of 15 degrees, has 4 phases and a torque of 40 Nt.
2. DSh-0.04 A - the step is 22.5 degrees, the number of phases is 4, the speed is 100 Nt.
3. DSHI-200 - 1.8 degrees; 4 phase; 0.25 Nt of torque.
4. DSh-6 - 18/4/2300 (values ​​are indicated by analogy with the previous parameters).

Knowing how to make an engine at home, you need to remember that the speed of the stepper motor torque will be transformed in direct proportion similar parameter current. Linear torque reduction by high speeds directly depends on the drive circuit and the inductance of the windings. IP 65 motors are designed for harsh working conditions. Compared to servers, stepper models last much longer and are more productive, do not require frequent repairs. However, servo motors have a slightly different focus, so comparing these types doesn't make much sense.

We make a homemade internal combustion engine

Do-it-yourself motor can also be made on liquid fuel. It does not require complex equipment and professional tools. Necessary which can be taken from a tractor or automobile fuel pump. The plunger sleeve cylinder is created by cutting off the thickened element of the plumbing. Then you should make holes for the exhaust and bypass windows, solder a couple of nuts in the upper part, designed for spark plugs. Type of elements - M-6. The piston is cut from the plunger.

A homemade diesel engine will require the installation of a crankcase. It is made of tin with soldered bearings. Additional strength will allow you to create a fabric coated with epoxy resin, which covers the element.

The crankshaft is assembled from a thickened washer with a pair of holes. It is necessary to press the shaft into one of them, and the second extreme socket is used for mounting the stud with the connecting rod. The operation is also performed by pressing.

Final work on the assembly of a homemade diesel engine

The following is the procedure for assembling the ignition coil:

• Used part from a car or motorcycle.
• A suitable candle is installed.
• Mounted insulators, fixed with "epoxy".

An alternative to a motor with internal combustion engine system can serve as a non-contact motor closed type, the device and principle of operation of which represent a system for the reverse exchange of gases. It consists of a two-section chamber, piston, crankshaft, transfer box, ignition systems. Knowing how to make an engine with your own hands, you can save a lot and get a necessary and useful thing on the farm.

Engine Assembly

1. Clear a deposit on the edges of beds of the block of cylinders. Clean deposits from oil grooves in beds.

2. Establish loose leaves of radical bearings in bed of the block of cylinders according to the labels made at dismantling. Please note that the middle liner A is without a groove. When installing the liners, their locking antennae must enter the grooves of the beds. Lubricate the liners engine oil.

3. Install crankshaft into the cylinder block.

4. Grease persistent half rings with engine oil. Pay attention to the grooves of the half rings - these sides of the half rings are installed to the cheeks of the crankshaft.

5. Install the steel-aluminum half ring ( white color) from the front side of the middle bed (drive side camshaft)...

6. ... cermet ( yellow color) - on the other side of the bed.

7. Turn the half rings so that their ends are flush with the ends of the bed.

8. Insert loose leaves into covers of radical bearings according to the labels made at dismantling. In this case, the locking antennae of the liners should enter the grooves of the covers. Lubricate the liners with engine oil.

9. Install the covers according to the marks. The covers are marked (notches) in accordance with the cylinder number. The exception is the fifth cover, on which two marks are applied, as well as on the second one. On the second cover there are two threaded holes for the oil receiver mounting bolts. The cylinder numbers are counted from the camshaft drive side, and the covers are installed with marks A towards the generator bracket B.

10. Grease with engine oil a carving and end faces of heads of bolts of fastening of covers.

11. Screw in the bolts and tighten them to the required torque in the following order: first tighten the bolts of the third cover 1, then the second 2 and fourth 3, then the first 4 and fifth 5. After tightening the bolts, turn the crankshaft two or three turns - it should rotate easily , without jamming.

12. Lightly grease the gasket for ease of installation. oil pump and "glue" it to the block. Remove excess grease.

13. Install the oil pump and screw in the bolts of its fastening (see. "Removal and installation of the oil pump" ).

14. For ease of installation, apply a light coat of grease to the holder gasket rear oil seal and "glue" it to the block. Remove excess grease.

15. Establish the holder of a back epiploon and screw bolts of its fastening (see. "Replacing crankshaft seals" ).

16. Insert the connecting rod into the piston in accordance with the previously made marks so that part number A on the connecting rod is facing away from lug B on the piston boss.

Rice. 4.16.Device for pressing the piston pin: 1-roller; 2-piston pin; 3-guide sleeve; 4-screw; 5 distance ring

17. To press the piston pin, it is better to use special device. In its absence, you can choose a suitable mandrel. Put the piston pin 2 (Fig. 4.16) on the roller 1 of the tool for installing the piston pin with the distance ring 5 put on it. Then put on the guide sleeve 3 and fix it with the screw 4 without tightening it. Distance ring dimensions: outside diameter 22 mm, internal - 15 mm, thickness - 4 mm.

18. Heat the connecting rod head to 240°C in an oven for 15 minutes. Clamp the connecting rod in a vise, install the piston on it so that the holes for the pin match, and insert the fixture with the pin into the holes of the piston and connecting rod until it stops. For correct installation finger, the piston should be pressed with the boss against the upper head of the connecting rod in the direction of pressing.

19. After the connecting rod has cooled, lubricate the piston pin through the hole in the piston bosses.

20. Install retaining rings on both sides of the pin. Pay attention to the fact that the rings must be clearly installed in the piston grooves.

21. Install the oil scraper ring expansion spring on the piston.

22. Install piston rings. It is recommended to do this with a special puller. If it is not there, install the rings on the piston, carefully spreading their locks.

23. The order of installation of rings: first install oil scraper ring(the lock of the ring must be on the opposite side of the lock of the expansion spring), then the lower compression ring, the last - the upper one.

24. Please note that the rings may be embossed with the inscription "VAZ", "TOP" or "TOP". With this inscription, the rings are installed upwards (towards the piston crown). If there is no inscription, the oil scraper and top compression can be installed in any position.

25. The lower compression ring differs from the upper one, except for the thickness, by the presence of a groove; it is installed with this groove down. Turn the rings in the piston grooves to make sure they turn easily. If any ring does not turn or sticks, it must be replaced.

26. Install the rings on the piston so that their locks are located at an angle of 120 ° to each other.

27. Thoroughly wipe the connecting rod journals of the crankshaft with a clean cloth.

28. Thoroughly wipe the cylinder mirrors with a clean cloth and lubricate them with engine oil.

29. Insert the liner into the connecting rod in accordance with the marks made earlier so that the tab of the liner fits into the groove in the connecting rod. Then lubricate the liner and piston with engine oil.

30. Put a special mandrel on the piston to compress the piston rings and carefully lower the connecting rod into the cylinder. It is recommended to pre-turn the crankshaft so that the piston to be installed is at BDC. The arrow on the piston crown must point towards the front of the engine (toward the camshaft drive).

31. Firmly press the mandrel against the block and use the hammer handle to push the piston into the cylinder. If the mandrel does not fit snugly against the cylinder block, piston rings can be broken.

32. Establish the lower head of a rod on a neck of a cranked shaft.

33. Insert the liner into the connecting rod cover in accordance with the marks made earlier so that the liner antenna enters the groove in the cover. Then lubricate the bearing with engine oil.

34. Install the connecting rod cap. The cylinder numbers on the cap and the bottom end of the connecting rod must be on the same side.

35. Wrap nuts of fastening of a cover and tighten them the demanded moment. Install the rest of the pistons in the same way.

36. Insert the oil level sensor into the cylinder block. If necessary, turn the crankshaft so that the counterweight of the shaft does not interfere with the insertion of the sensor. Then tighten the sensor mounting bolt.

37. Install the oil receiver and screw in the three bolts of its fastening.

38. Apply sealant to the flywheel mounting bolts. Install the flywheel, lock plate and screw in the flywheel mounting bolts (for details, see Fig. "Removal, installation and troubleshooting of the flywheel" ).

39. For ease of installation, apply a thin layer of grease to the surface of the block and “glue” the oil pan gasket to it.

40. Install oil sump and screw in the bolts of its fastening. Next, assemble the engine in the reverse order of disassembly. Install the cylinder head (see (acticleLink855) "Replacing the cylinder head gasket" (acticleLink855) ), camshaft drive belt (see "Replacing the camshaft drive belt and adjusting the belt tension" ).

41. Establish other knots and details in an order, the return to removal.

USEFUL TIPS

After assembling the engine, it is recommended to run it on the stand. Since it is impossible to do this outside of special repair organizations, after installing the engine on a car, run it in according to a simplified cycle:

1) make sure the drive adjustment is correct throttle valve, fill in oil and coolant, check the tightness of all connections;

2) start the engine and let it run without load for the next cycle. Do not bring the engine to maximum modes;

3) during operation, check the tightness of the engine and its systems, oil pressure, pay attention to the presence of extraneous noise;

4) if found extraneous noise or other malfunctions, stop the engine and eliminate their cause;

5) when starting the operation of the car, observe the modes provided for the period of running in a new car.

How to assemble an engine?

Nowadays, a car is not a luxury, but a means of transportation familiar to everyone. As a result, a growing number of motorists who prefer to independently repair their vehicle. This is due to the rather high prices for service stations.

Required Tools

Consider the engine assembly process using the example of a VAZ 2106 car. To assemble the engine, you will need the following tools:

1. First of all, you will need a set of keys in the following sizes: 12-14, 17, 19, 21, 22, 36.
2. If there is no set of keys, use a gas key.
3. Pressing device piston pins.
4. Ordinary torque wrench and sockets sizes 12 and 13. If these are not available, a cylinder head bolt wrench can be used.
5. Hammer.
6. Screwdriver.
7. Mounting blade.

It is this minimum set of tools that is needed to work with the engine of a VAZ 2106 car. Now let's consider the engine assembly process itself for this car.

Engine Assembly

Imagine that you have a disassembled engine of a VAZ 2106 car. It doesn’t matter if you assemble it after repair, diagnostics, or assemble new engine from spare parts, the sequence of actions will be the same. Try to allocate a few hours of free time for assembling the engine and do not forget to prepare all the necessary tools listed above.

1. First of all, you need to assemble the engine pistons. Place the piston pin with spacer ring on the piston pin press tool, fit the guide sleeve and secure it.
2. Preheat the oven to 240 degrees (even a simple, homemade one will do) and place the connecting rod in it so that when heated, its head expands. After heating, quickly remove it and clamp it in a vise, put on the piston and push the piston pin into the holes. When the connecting rod is cool, lubricate it with engine oil.
3. Install piston rings.
4. In the same way, assemble the remaining pistons and install piston rings on them.
5. In special beds of the block of cylinders establish loose leaves of radical bearings. The mounting antennae of the liners must be aligned with the special grooves of the bed. Lubricate them after installation.
6. The crankshaft is installed in the cylinder block.
7. Next, special lower bushings must be installed in the root bearing caps.
8. Lubricate the crankshaft journals and the bearing shells in the crankshaft bearing caps.
9. After that, install the bearing caps and lubricate their thrust half rings with oil.
10. Install the rear and front half rings back support crankshaft.
11. Install the rear main bearing cap and cap bolts, then secure them with a torque wrench.
12. Be sure to check the axial clearance of the crankshaft with a mounting blade. If the gap is more than 0.35 millimeters, it is necessary to replace the thrust half rings with thicker ones.
13. Check the correct assembly of the crankshaft by turning it several times by hand. A properly assembled crankshaft should rotate freely, without delay and smoothly.
14. Insert the connecting rod bolts and connecting rod bearings, aligning the tabs of the bearing with the notch of the connecting rod.
15. Lubricate the cylinder mirrors, as well as the pistons, rings and connecting rod bearings.
16. Using a piston ring compressor, install the pistons into the cylinders. Cylinder number and connecting rod number must match.
17. Install the connecting rod bearings into the connecting rod caps. Then lubricate the connecting rod bearings and the connecting rod journals of the crankshaft.
18. Install the connecting rod cover, after connecting the marks on the connecting rod and the cover. Install the other connecting rod caps in the same way. Tighten the nuts with a torque wrench.
19. Install the crankshaft rear oil seal holder. Center it and secure with bolts. Avoid twists.
20. Install and secure the flywheel.
21. Install the remaining components: the sprocket on the crankshaft, the ignition distributor drive gear, the oil pump drive shaft and the oil pump itself, the oil crankcase, the cylinder head. Tighten all components and parts with bolts.
22. Install camshaft together with the bearing block on the cylinder head. Fasten with screws.
23. Install the chain tension shoe, put on the chain. Install the stop bolt.
24. Put the chain on the oil pump drive shaft sprocket. Also install the chain on the camshaft sprocket.
25. Install the chain tensioner.
26. Install the camshaft timing chain cover. Center it and fix it with special bolts. Install and secure the remaining elements, assemblies and parts.

As you can see, the engine assembly process requires certain knowledge and following the instructions. By the way, manuals for engine repair, its disassembly and assembly are contained in the instructions for any car. We also recommend that you read the article

The engine is the heart of the car, and therefore its performance must be maintained at the proper level. Many drivers want to learn how to repair the engine own car, but, faced with difficulties during disassembly, they immediately abandon such an undertaking, motivating all this insufficient level knowledge. In this article, you will learn how to disassemble the engine with your own hands using the VAZ 2107 as an example. This guide is also relevant for all other engines of the classic VAZ family, as well as for the Niva 2121.

How and why is it worth disassembling the engine?

Engine disassembly is carried out if the engine is planned to be subjected to overhaul. At the same time, it must be completely disassembled and all worn parts replaced. In addition, the boring of the cylinder block, which must be freed from all parts of the motor, will be relevant. In addition, it is possible to disassemble the engine in order to simply clean it, in case of serious contamination, when a simple flushing oil impossible.

We will try to omit the details regarding its removal, since it is quite simple to do this: you just need to unscrew the nuts by 19 from the pillows, remove the attachments (all parts of electrical equipment, hoses and pipes, as well as drives of various elements) and unscrew it from the gearbox. After that, the motor is thoroughly washed and installed on a special stand (using a regular workbench is also welcome).

Step-by-step instructions for disassembling the internal combustion engine of a car + Video

• Prepare all the necessary tools and drain the oil from the crankcase.
• Firstly, it will be necessary to lighten the weight of the motor, and secondly, it will help to avoid excess dirt on the workbench. Further . Also unscrew all the bolts on which the oil pan is attached. The old gasket can be thrown away as it becomes unusable.
• Now you need. This is not as easy as it seems at first glance, since in this case you will need good physical strength. However, no one has canceled the use of the pipe as a wrench extension. Secure the crankshaft from turning by locking the flywheel. For this, it is applied special device which can be purchased at the store. Next, use the wrench to unscrew the ratchet and dismantle the pulley.
• Loosen the valve cover nuts and drive chain Timing belt, remove it and pull out the gasket. Unscrew the bolts securing the camshaft gears, as well as the shaft that drives the engine oil pump. Next in line is . First, loosen the special cap nut, and then unscrew the other two nuts that secure it to the cylinder head. Do not forget to unscrew the shoe mounting bolt, and then remove the tensioner itself, along with the shoe. Then the pin that creates a restriction for the chain is turned away, the camshaft and oil pump gears are removed, and the chain is removed.
  
• Now you need. To do this, unscrew the two nuts located on its studs in the bearing housing. The housing must be removed, and the camshaft is carefully pulled out. Before pulling it out, do not forget to also dismantle the special thrust flange.
  
• Next, the bolts designed to fasten the cylinder head to the block itself are unscrewed. it is produced immediately together with collectors, which are not required to be removed (depending on the type of repair being carried out). After removing the head, it is also recommended to replace the gasket. This procedure will help you, in the future, get rid of the repeated removal of this element.
  
• After that, you need to dismantle the oil pump. To pull it out, you need to remove a special thrust flange. After that, pull the roller out of the cylinder block, which is responsible for driving the oil pump.
• Using a special removable device, pull out the gear that is put on the engine crankshaft. Then unscrew the nuts located on connecting rod bolts. Now remove the connecting rod caps and, using the cylindrical opening, pull out the connecting rods along with the pistons.

Attention! Before pulling out the connecting rods and pistons, as well as the main bearings and liners, you must first mark them all in order to prevent errors when assembling the element.

• Again we return to the flywheel lock and install it. Unscrew the bolts that are intended for fastening, and remove the washer, then pull out the flywheel, put on the crankshaft, and then remove protective cover clutch housing.
• Remove the bearing with a puller input shaft Gearbox, which is located in a special nest in the rear power unit. Following it, you need to pull out a special holder for the crankshaft oil seal. Now unscrew the bolts on which the covers that cover the main bearings are attached and pull them out along with the liners. After that, you need to remove the crankshaft and the uppermost shaft liners. Also dismantle the special persistent half rings, which are located on the support.

That's all you need to do to disassemble the engine. The next step is to bore various elements to repair dimensions and replace damaged and worn elements. Special attention it is recommended to give the liners, which are most often subjected to cranking, because of which the motor simply wedges. After repair, the motor is assembled and installed on the car.

Nowadays, a car is not a luxury, but a means of transportation familiar to everyone. As a result, the number of motorists who prefer to independently repair their vehicle is growing. This is due to the rather high prices for service stations. That is why the question of how to assemble the engine is quite relevant. Why overpay if you can diagnose or repair the engine yourself?

These skills can be useful not only when repairing your car, but also if you want to assemble the car yourself. This is a fairly common practice, especially among car enthusiasts who have a lot of free time and resources. More details about self assembly car, you can learn from the article How to assemble a car. If funds and resources are not enough, or there is not enough practical experience, you can start small and try to assemble a moped from a bicycle.

Required Tools

Consider the engine assembly process using the example of a VAZ 2106 car. To assemble the engine, you will need the following tools: First of all, you will need a set of keys of the following sizes: 12-14, 17, 19, 21, 22, 36. key. Piston pin press tool. A conventional torque wrench and size 12 and 13 sockets. If these are not available, a cylinder head bolt wrench can be used. Hammer. Screwdriver. Mounting blade. It is this minimum set of tools that is needed to work with the engine of a VAZ 2106 car. Now let's consider the process of assembling the engine for this car.

Assembly

Before assembling the engine, the edges of the beds of the cylinder block are cleaned of soot, and the oil grooves in the beds are cleaned of old deposits, after which, in accordance with the marks made during disassembly, the main bearing shells are inserted into the beds of the cylinder block. It is worth remembering that the middle liner, unlike the others, does not have a groove. Before installation, the liners are lubricated with engine oil; during assembly, make sure that the locking antennae of the parts fit exactly into the corresponding grooves of the beds. After installing the liners, they proceed to install the crankshaft in the cylinder block.

During installation, the thrust half rings are lubricated with engine oil, not forgetting during assembly that the grooved side should be turned towards the cheeks of the crankshaft.

The white steel-aluminum half ring is installed on the front side of the middle bed, in the same place where the camshaft drive is located, and the yellow cermet half ring should be located on the other side of the bed. After assembly, you need to turn the half rings into a position in which their ends would be flush with the ends of the bed.

The liners of the main bearing caps are installed according to the marks or numbers that were applied during their disassembly; when assembling, you need to carefully ensure that the locking antennae of the parts fit exactly into the corresponding grooves of the covers.

When installing, the bearings must be lubricated with engine oil.

In order not to confuse the covers with the cylinder, when installing them, you need to check the corresponding notches on the parts that are applied in accordance with the cylinder number. In order to distinguish between the second and fifth covers, on which the same marks are applied, it must be remembered that the second cover is distinguished by the presence of two threaded holes for the oil receiver mounting bolts. When assembling, do not forget to lubricate the threads and ends of the heads of the cap bolts. The cap bolts are screwed in in a certain order: first the third cap, then the second, then the fourth, the next - the first, the last should be the fifth.

After tightening all the fasteners, turn the crankshaft several times: if it moves easily and does not stick, the tightening is done correctly.

To attach the oil pump gasket, it is lubricated with a special grease, as a result of which it is easily attached to the block. After attaching, excess grease is removed. Then the oil sump is put back in place and the rear oil seal holder is installed (the holder gasket can be attached to the block with the same lubricant). The connecting rod is installed in accordance with the marks made during engine disassembly, then the piston pin is inserted and retaining rings are fixed on both sides of the part, making sure that they clearly fit into the piston grooves. Then the oil scraper ring expansion spring is put on the piston and, using a special puller, the piston rings are installed on the piston.

When installing the rings, the following order must be observed: first, the oil scraper ring is put on, when installing it, the ring lock is placed on the opposite side of the expansion spring lock, the lower compression ring is put on the second, and then the upper one is installed. In some cases, appropriate inscriptions are made on the rings indicating which side should go up.

In the event that there is no special puller, you need to try very carefully to part the locks of the rings with your hands and install the parts on the piston.

The lower compression ring differs from the upper one both in thickness and in the direction of the groove, which in this case goes down. After installation, the rings are rotated to check for ease of movement. If the rings are deformed and seize during rotation, they are replaced with new ones.

After assembling, the rings must be turned to such a position that the angle between their locks is 120 °.

Before installing the connecting rod journals of the crankshaft, they are thoroughly cleaned of dirt and grease.

Before assembly, the cylinder mirrors must be cleaned of accumulated dirt and deposits and lubricated with engine oil. The connecting rod insert is inserted according to the marks made during disassembly, making sure that the antenna is exactly aligned with the groove of the connecting rod. Then the liner and the piston itself are lubricated with oil, a mandrel is put on the piston, which compresses the piston rings, and the connecting rod is carefully lowered into the cylinder so that the arrow on the piston bottom is directed towards the camshaft drive. When installing, it is desirable to move the crankshaft to the BDC position.

To install the piston in the cylinder, it is necessary to press the mandrel very tightly against the cylinder block, otherwise the piston rings can be broken, and with a light pressure of the hammer handle push the piston into the cylinder. After that, you need to install the lower head of the connecting rod on the neck of the crankshaft, combine the connecting rod liner with its cover according to the marks made during disassembly, while the insert antenna is exactly aligned with the groove in the cover. Next, you need to lubricate the liner with engine oil and close the cylinder with a cover so that the cylinder numbers on the cover and the lower connecting rod head are located on the same side. After tightening the fasteners of the cylinder cover, the remaining pistons are assembled in the same way.

To install the oil level sensor in the cylinder block, the crankshaft must be moved to a position in which it will not interfere with the installation of the part, then install the sensor and tighten fixing bolt. Following the installation of the oil receiver, they begin to mount the flywheel, for which all the fasteners of the part are degreased and a special sealant is applied to the mounting bolts.

Then the oil sump is returned to its place and further assembly of the engine is carried out in the reverse order of its disassembly.

In the event that for some reason it is difficult or inconvenient to turn the crankshaft by the pulley fastening bolt to it, other methods can be used. For example, you can shift into fourth gear and drive the car at low speed until the marks on the camshaft pulley are fully aligned with the mark on the back cover of the camshaft drive belt. In the event that you have the opportunity to hang the car on front wheel, you can use another method: turn on any gear and start turning the suspended wheel until the marks on the camshaft pulley match the mark on the rear cover of the camshaft drive belt.

When conducting repair work to replace the camshaft drive belt, and if it is necessary to remove it, the piston of the first cylinder must always be transferred to the top dead center of the compression stroke: in this case, the valve timing will not be disturbed and after assembling the engine, the system will work properly.