The car engine is loud. Why and what to do? 4.86 /5 (97.14%) 7 votes
The modern motor is much quieter than the old ones. As a result, car owners are frightened that their solo unit, after some time, began to make noise louder than usual. Moreover, the engine runs loudly most often when it is cold, both at idle and under load, while the noise decreases as the internal combustion engine warms up.
This frightens many car owners, and they do not know if this is normal when the engine makes noise, or if there are any malfunctions with it. This is in the hands of some car services. “The less you understand, the more expensive the repairs.” If you do not want to be deceived in a car service, click on any of the messengers below to find out 5 easy ways to avoid being scammed 👇
Do you know why the engine is running loud?
Are there sounds that weren't there before? Immediately check if everything is fine with the motor. Most often this is due to serious breakdowns, for the diagnosis and elimination of which you will have to disassemble the power unit. Choose the closest Moscow car service to your current location and sign up for diagnostics.
In modern cars, the sound of the motor is barely audible, but when warmed up, it is louder than usual, and this is quite normal. But this should not be confused with extraneous sounds in the engine, which have a characteristic rattling, rustling and knocking in the internal combustion engine.
In other words, if metallic knocks or barely muffled blows are heard in the engine, then all this means that the power unit has knocked and it needs qualified professional help, and the first is high-quality car engine diagnostics. The problem lies in the connecting rod-piston group, and here, as practice shows, a major overhaul. It knocks due to the appearance of play on the crankshaft of the power unit.
If you look in the direction of a general increase in noise, when the engine runs loudly on a cold one, then this happens according to the following reasons:
- The electronic control unit raises the speed of the power unit so that it does not stall.
- Also the reason for the increase ICE noise are increased gaps between the parts of the power unit. Due to the large gaps between the walls of the cylinders and pistons, shock loads increase, which is why you can hear how the engine began to work louder. However, as the power unit warms up, the gap decreases and, accordingly, the noise.
- If a car with a mileage of at least 100 thousand km, then the cause of the extraneous sound emitted can be cold hydraulic lifters. Due to the fact that the channels are coked, the oil pump is not able to push thick oil inside, as a result, an extraneous “clatter” will be heard, which disappears when the power unit warms up.
Ensuring high speed on a cold engine is carried out by enriching the fuel mixture. As a result, the fuel that did not burn due to the low temperature of the power unit is compensated. In addition, they are needed to ensure its stable operation, high-quality lubrication of parts with engine oil, because. when cold, it is more viscous and much more difficult for the oil pump to pump.
In addition, increased speed is needed to quickly warm up the catalyst to reduce the toxicity of emissions. As the internal combustion engine warms up, the ECU will decrease the speed to the desired level. Accordingly, the motor becomes quieter.
As the ECU warms up, it slows down, the oil becomes thinner, the gaps decrease and the car becomes noticeably quieter. Therefore, it is quite obvious why is the engine loud when cold, and this is not a big problem and a malfunction of the car.
The car owner, having heard an extraneous sound in the engine, begins to form various reasons in his head, trying, if possible, to eliminate them on his own. Sometimes he attracts his friends to this, who are well versed in the device of the car.
Let's single out major faults, which can lead to the appearance of extraneous noise in the operation of the motor:
- Low-quality fuel and engine oil;
- Malfunctions of the lubrication system;
- Violation of the temperature regime;
- Faulty spark plugs;
- timing belt;
- Hydraulic lifters are knocking;
- Malfunctions in the gas distribution mechanism;
- The problem is in the idle speed controller;
- Electrical faults.
Obviously, there are a lot of malfunctions, and in order to figure out exactly what the source of extraneous noise is and why the engine began to run louder, you need to contact a car service. Ignoring this phenomenon leads to irreversible consequences. Such malfunctions must be solved at the stage of their appearance, without delay, otherwise everything leads to an expensive overhaul of the power unit.
Poor quality fuel
For example, if you fill the gas tank with 92 instead of 95, when the recommended fuel for the engine is not lower than 95, then early detonation appears. All leads to the fact that the motor begins to wear out faster.
Lubrication system problems
A low oil level leads to a decrease in pressure, due to which the parts will lack lubrication and begin to wear out faster. There is also a situation when low-quality oil is poured into the internal combustion engine or is not suitable for this type of engine, being too thick or viscous, as a result of which the car engine experiences heavy loads for it and an increase in the sound it makes.
Another reason, why is the engine loud, may consist in insufficient supply of engine oil to the part, as a result, when heated, it expands and begins to knock on neighboring parts of the internal combustion engine.
Open the hood and check the oil level!
The loud sound of a running engine is possible due to a lack of oil in the system, in which case a characteristic metallic sound of the power unit will be heard. Having discovered this, it is necessary to immediately contact the specialists for troubleshooting, the operation of the internal combustion engine without engine oil will lead to costly repairs.
It can also happen that coolant enters the engine oil, as a result of which it dilutes and loses its lubricating properties, increasing wear on the power unit. This problem is solved by filling the original engine oil for this type of internal combustion engine. If there is a hit of coolant in the engine oil, in this case, the malfunction must be immediately eliminated.
Cooling system
Detonation may occur due to instability in the temperature regime of the motor. The thermostat may be broken. Due to this breakdown, the coolant will not be sent to the radiator in the required volume, all this ultimately leads to excessive heating of the power unit and its overheating.
Also, a faulty thermostat causes excess coolant to pass through, which leads to insufficient cooling of the power unit, and as a result, to its loud operation. The problem is solved by cleaning the thermostat or replacing the old one with a new one.
Ignition system malfunctions
The engine may run louder due to incorrectly selected spark plugs, and as a result, fuel detonation.
We will pay special attention to why is the VAZ engine loud, especially if it is an eight-valve engine. So, this one does not have hydraulic lifters, so it needs to be periodically adjusted, or rather the valve. If you do not perform this procedure, then over time the clatter will increase significantly. After adjusting the valves, the problem will be solved.
Malfunctions in the gas distribution mechanism
If a small clearance is set in the valves, this will lead to malfunctions of this mechanism, and, accordingly, an increase in noise. Everything is solved by setting the required clearance.
Malfunction of the high pressure fuel pump (TNVD)
The loud operation of the diesel engine may be due to the tapping of the injection pump plunger. The poor quality of diesel fuel contributes greatly to this. The rattling occurs both at idle and when you press the gas pedal.
Problems in the idle speed controller
Often there is a situation when the engine is idling loudly and twitches slightly, but after the start of movement it immediately calms down noticeably, in which case it is necessary to clean the idle speed controller.
Electrical faults
Electrical failures come down to problems in the motor, incorrect formation of the air-fuel mixture, interruptions in the ignition system, cooling system, etc.
All these failures, malfunctions become an explanation of what engine running louder both cold and hot. In fact, there can be much more reasons - worn-out mounting supports for the power unit cushion, and possibly the cylinder block gasket needs to be replaced.
Problems are solved both independently and through a visit to the auto technical center.
Problems in the crankshaft
Loud operation of the diesel engine and gasoline engine may be due to wear on the journals or crankshaft liners, as well as due to an increase in the distance in the bearings. The lack of lubricating fluid, the ingress of water or antifreeze into the oil are also the cause.
We figured out why the engine is loud, but what can we do to reduce the noise level. First of all, the use of high-quality fuel and engine oil, they have a greater impact on the level of extraneous sounds emitted by the power unit.
It is clear that to reduce noise, you need to identify the source. Often, after repairing the motor, the cause of noisy operation is a replaced part that is installed incorrectly or has some kind of defect.
It happens that after changing the engine oil, flushing the system, using various additives, performing decarbonization, louder engine operation is noticed.
Loud engine running maybe if the cylinder head gasket burned out or the fasteners relaxed.
If the engine began to work louder, then it is necessary to take all the necessary actions to determine the cause and eliminate them.
Causes of knocking in the engine
Knocks in the engine can not be confused with anything. You don’t even need to listen well: it is heard perfectly.
Knock of main bearings
A very dangerous situation for the unit. In case of detection, you must immediately turn off the engine and go to a service center. This engine knock is heard in the crankcase, when you press the gas pedal, it becomes stronger. Often, its appearance is accompanied by a strong drop in the oil level.
Knocking rod bearings
Also very dangerous. The car must be turned off immediately and the car service will go in tow. The character of the sound is rhythmic, sonorous and metallic. Increases strongly when you press the gas pedal and disappears when you remove the spark plug.
Knock of piston pins
Dangerous knock of the engine, however, if you do not heavily load it, you can get to the service center on your own. The sound is rhythmic, with a metallic tint. The sound is heard constantly, both at idle and at high speeds. Disappears when the spark plug is turned off.
The sound of worn pistons and cylinders
Non-dangerous sound for the motor, without loading you can drive to the car service yourself. The sound is somewhat similar to the sound of pottery. It is clearly audible on a cold engine, as it warms up it decreases or disappears altogether.
Valve knock
Not dangerous for the power unit. You can go to the auto repair center on your own. Metallic sound against the background of general noise. It sounds great at low and medium engine speeds. It usually manifests itself when the hydraulic lifters fail, which will need to be replaced.
Detonation sounds
Dangerous for the engine, but eliminated by replacing the knock sensor. Without loading the engine, you can easily get to the car service. Metallic sounds appear during acceleration. A common cause of failure is the use of poor quality fuel, as well as carbon deposits in the combustion chambers of the fuel.
And so, the main reasons why the engine is noisy?
- And due to a malfunction in the exhaust system;
- Due to the gas distribution mechanism;
- "The engine knocked";
- Alternator malfunctions (belt, bearings)
The main source of noise in a running car, besides the wheels, is the engine, especially the one found in older cars with flaws in the soundproofing system. That is why protection against unnecessary sounds coming from the motor will allow you to significantly reduce the volume of annoying noises and allow you to communicate in the cabin without raising your voice. You can install soundproofing of the entire cabin and some parts of the body without much difficulty. However, you will have to try hard to reduce the volume of the engine.
What creates noise?
Let's find out what kind of annoying “music” of the motor we will install protection against, because, in truth, it’s not only the engine that makes noise. The main parts that make sounds are:
- The engine and its attachments (pump, generator, belts, etc.).
- Lock and body hinges (especially if these parts of the car are very worn out).
- Air that travels at high speed and creates eddies.
Noise isolation of the propulsion system must act on the entire space under the hood, because all of the above parts are necessary for the operation of the vehicle, and internal air flows help to cool the engine and also prevent it from breaking down quickly.
Pay special attention to the barrier between the engine and the passenger compartment, because every gap in such a device can cause an increased volume of sounds. Also, noise protection is installed on the wheel arches, because the sound passing through them can be heard by your passengers through the cracks in the doorways and other openings in the body.
It is believed that the walls of the engine compartment are a good means for soundproofing. But there is also a minus: a metal that is not equipped with any kind of coating is able not to absorb sound, only to reflect it. Thus, noise vibrations are not “eaten”, but are directed to another place. Recently, more and more often they process the motor pan. Such a part can transmit sound vibrations, and it does not require rapid removal of excess heat.
We select materials
Be sure to make a list of the necessary tools for installing soundproofing. It should include:
- Sound and vibration protection.
- Glue.
- Sharp knife.
- Cleaning paper (will help eliminate errors in working with adhesion).
Keep in mind the significance of the first point, as the engine creates vibrations in the body, resulting in an increase in sound intensity. And vibration protection differs from sound protection in that the first is less dense, and it also has better shock-absorbing properties and a greater thickness of the applied layer.
Most likely you want to know more about the choice of materials. Firstly, you can buy expensive soundproofing, which was invented by famous car companies, but after spending a lot of money, you can stumble upon a fake. Experienced drivers do not advise spending a lot of money, because any noise protection will wear out due to its proximity to the motor. According to experienced motorists, it is best to buy budget materials, and after applying them, treat them with mastic, which increases the duration of work and the reliability of the resulting surface.
Application technique
Ideally, it is better to completely remove the motor and other parts that are in the engine compartment and cover its walls. But this process can only be carried out on the condition that you have a high level of qualification, so it would be best to entrust such work to experienced mechanics.
If you do not want to dismantle the engine, then installing soundproofing will require you to spend a lot of time and physical effort on this process.
Here's what to do:
- Lay out all the sheets with finished soundproofing in front of you. If it is single-layer, then purchase additional vibration protection, otherwise initially buy multi-layer sheets.
- Take a roll of thick paper (best of all, if it is drawing paper) and place the material in the engine compartment, attaching the paper to the area that will later be protected from noise.
- Carefully cut out a section to create a template and check if you made a mistake when measuring the surface of the body. By the way, if the quality of such insulation is important to you, cut out pieces of the required shape from the soundproof sheets prepared at the beginning. To do this, attach paper sketches to them, and then circle the contours with a knife blade.
- With special care, get rid of fat on the surface of the engine compartment. Use gasoline to wash metal parts, and then you just have to remove excess fuel with a rag.
- After repeating the previous paragraph two or three times, glue should be applied with a fine mesh, without creating squares in it more than 2x2 centimeters. If you are working on a motor sump that is relentlessly under sonic stress, you can insulate with a continuous layer of adhesive. If the solution accidentally gets on the wrong part, you need to remove the drops with tissue paper as soon as possible and wipe the area with gasoline. Otherwise, the adhesive may ignite easily if it gets on hot motor parts.
- After completing the work, inspect all surfaces and possible irregularities with special attention. If there are extra pieces left in some areas, cut them off. And it is best to glue the joints with an additional layer: you just need to cut thin strips (1 - 1.5 cm) and glue them, ensuring good pressure.
- Treat soundproofing with mastic or heat-resistant varnish. This is how you protect the sheets of material from exposure to high temperatures and strong chemicals.
other methods
No need to be lazy, systematically wipe the hinges and the hood lock with a special oil, in the absence of one, use WD - 40. It is also best to place small soundproofing sheets, they will prevent even more sounds from spreading inside the vehicle.
Is the hood not protected from heat? Then close it with a familiar insulating material. The process will be similar to the instructions above. But, if there are no stiffeners on the cover of the motor system, you will have to cut through the noise protection yourself, it will consist of several wide strips. Be sure to apply the adhesive as tightly as possible (when processing the hood) to avoid large loose areas.
But this is not the end of our work: noise can also enter the cabin through other sources. To prevent this, carry out a similar finish on the bottom of the body from the inside and on the engine shield, which is located behind the front panel. You should also eliminate all kinds of cracks and holes, for this you can use sealing sleeves and two-layer seals (for doorways). Such devices will not only muffle the noise, but also prevent the ingress and accumulation of dust.
Getting Started
Since you are going to build engine soundproofing for your motor, consider processing the engine compartment. So, you will cover all the walls with a special material that will absorb sounds and fight their spread inside the car. Once you're done, remember to check carefully. It is necessary to check the quality of work and the presence of errors. Do not be lazy, carry out a comprehensive work on the machine body, so you really feel that the cabin has become much quieter.
What mistakes do drivers make when changing oil
The issue of choosing and changing engine oil every year is overgrown with a huge number of legends. We often forget what oil it is recommended to fill in the "heart" of your own car, relying on promising advertising and the "expert" worldview of your neighbor in the garage.
But experiments on the machine do not always end successfully. It is not rare that engine needs repair not due to natural wear and tear, but due to the fact that the motorist wanted to “improve” his work.
Not all oils are created equal
All information about a suitable engine oil specifically for your car can be found in the service manual. If you do not have it, it is better to go to a company service and get reliable information there. You can also use reference directories.
Each oil has a certain additive package, and, as it should be, designed for different engines and operating conditions of the car. The wrong set of additives can result in:
- firstly, an increase in fuel consumption,
- secondly, by lowering the power
- thirdly, an increase in engine wear.
That's why choosing oil, it is important to focus not on advertising a certain brand, but on the characteristics of the lubricating water itself - the admission of the auto concern for oil to the engine (a set of Latin letters and numbers). Trying to make the motor work better by pouring into it more expensive oil, don't make sense.
It happens that a car concern allows the introduction in a particular engine of up to several 10s of oils, different in viscosity class. In this case, it is important to take into account the operating conditions. For example, approval VW 501.01 allows you to fill in oils from 5W-30 to 20W-50. The 1st option is more suitable for the cool season, the 2nd one is perfect for the summer. In this case, in this case there is no big difference, to use synthetics, semi-synthetics or mineral water.
Danger Additives
If there are 1st signs that engine running not as usual - troit, lost power, etc., do not rush to fill in supposedly life-saving additives. The addition of chemicals can actually improve certain characteristics of an oil, as well as exacerbate others. In this case, the negative effect will affect the operation of the motor without fail, but will the motor start work better is unclear.
high quality oil has an equilibrium additive package, and by adding any chemical preparations to the composition, you break this balance. Eventually oil loses some of its fundamental parameters. In the worst case, clogging of the motor lubrication system may occur. The harm from such pseudo-help can increase the cost of overhaul at times.
Oil change and engine noise measurement for Renault Duster. 1.6 4x4
There is a worldview that after an oil change, engine runs quieter. Greshen himself had such feelings. Decided to check.
What Motor Oil Best "Honest Test Drive"
In this part we will talk about which motor oil should be uploaded to your engine when it needs to be changed.
However, additives have a clear negative effect on engine rare enough. Basically, the effect of them is completely equal to zero. It may seem to you that the engine runs quieter and the car accelerates faster, but in reality this is just self-hypnosis.
Which oil fill: synthetic or mineral
Many manufacturers claim that synthetic and semi-synthetic oils can be changed less frequently than mineral oils. At the same time, it is often referred to that the mineral oil serves a maximum of 10 thousand km, and synthetics require only one replacement for 20 thousand km.
It gives the impression that more expensive synthetic oil it is more profitable to buy, since the cost pays off due to a rare change of lubricant. However, this is not quite true. In fact, the period for changing engine oil is determined by the vehicle manufacturer. For example, on new cars, when using Longlife class synthetic oil, increased mileage may be stipulated. Specified oil indeed more stable than mineral, namely: it can have better fluidity, resist oxidation, differ in corrosion resistance and excellent lubricating properties. But if the manufacturer has not indicated that this power unit is applicable oil Longlife, do not fill the engine with this fluid, trying to increase the replacement interval.
Many European automakers, pointing out that an oil change must be done every 20 thousand km, make a special amendment for operation on the roads of the CIS countries and recommend halving this interval. That is, if we consider the issue of economic benefits, it is preferable to buy semi-synthetics and mineral oils: they serve the same amount, but cost 1.5 - 2 times cheaper. As for inexpensive oil filters, it’s not worth saving here. The fact is that the “Chinese” filter can “crumble” and cause scuffing on the cylinder walls.
Do I need to flush the engine when changing the oil
Flushing the engine in 9 out of 10 cases is not needed! Moreover, this explanation is confirmed by the grief minders themselves, who strongly recommend this procedure before changing the oil.
The first fact that the service station employee is trying to prove and that almost any driver believes in is that a mixture of two different types of oils will lead to an overhaul.
Fact two: completely merge the old oil impossible.
Fact three: it follows logically from the first two - the engine must be flushed before changing the oil.
But after all, flushing is nothing more than pouring oil with detergent additives. This oil it is completely impossible to drain (see the second fact), which means that the remnants of the washing oil are mixed with fresh lubricating fluid and, according to the first fact, a major overhaul will soon arise. However, you all know that this is not happening, and engine continues to work properly.
There is no point in flushing, and this is just another trick of the service station workers for additional income. Most modern oils mix well with each other when calculating 80 - 90% new to 10 - 20% old. The only case when flushing really does not interfere is when it gets into engine foreign liquid. But even then the procedure is carried out using ordinary oil, which is drained after a couple of hours of operation.
As an epilogue: do not believe promising advertising, fill in the oil recommended by the automaker!
