Removal and installation of the timing chain (GRM)

You will need: wrenches "for 14", "for 17", "for 19", socket heads "for 14", "for 17", "for 19", extension cord, wrench, screwdriver with a flat blade.

1. Disconnect a wire from the minus plug of the storage battery.

2. Set the piston of the 1st cylinder to the TDC position of the compression stroke

3. Remove the decorative engine cover

4. Remove the engine mudguard

5. Drain the engine oil from the crankcase

6. Remove the right support power unit

7. Remove the drive belt auxiliary units

8. Turn out four bolts of fastening of an arm of the right support of the engine...

9. ... and remove the bracket.

10. Turn out a bolt of fastening of an auxiliary roller of a belt of a drive of auxiliary units

11. ... and remove the video.

12. Remove water pump

13. Holding the crankshaft pulley from turning with a special tool, unscrew the pulley mounting bolt.

14. Remove pulley from crankshaft.

15. Turn out two bolts of fastening of an arm of a tenerator...

16. ... and remove the bracket.

17. Remove the cylinder head cover

18. Turn out fifteen bolts of fastening of a cover of the gas-distributing mechanism...

19 ..and remove the cover.

20. Using a special tool or a screwdriver, wring out the tensioner shoe, fix the tensioner with a pin ...

21. ... Remove the two tensioner mounting bolts ...

22. ... and remove the tensioner.

23. Turn a little camshaft exhaust valves clockwise and remove the chain from the shaft gear links.

24. Remove the chain from the shaft gear intake valves, then off the crankshaft gear and remove the chain from the engine.

25. Install the chain in reverse order according to the marks on the chain and gears of the shafts.

Rice. 5.7. Applying sealant to the timing cover

26. Apply sealant to the mating surfaces of the timing cover with a roller 3-5 mm thick, as shown in fig. 5.7, install the cover and screw in the 10 mm bolts of its fastening with a torque of 9.8-11.8 Nm. and 12 mm bolts with a torque of 18.6-23.5 Nm.

27. Install all other previously removed parts in the reverse order of removal.

Complexity

Pit / Trestle

3 - 6 h

Tools:

• L-shaped socket wrench 22 mm
• L-shaped socket wrench 17 mm
• L-shaped socket wrench 19 mm
• torque wrench
• Screwdriver flat medium
• Crankshaft pulley removal tool
• Collar for end nozzle
• Nozzle on the crank 10 mm
• Nozzle on the crank 14 mm
• Nozzle for crank 17 mm
• Nozzle for crank 19 mm
• Extension
• Pin

Parts and consumables:

• Cloth gloves
• sealant
• Engine oil
• Coolant
• Drainage container engine oil
• Container for draining coolant
• Reliable support
• Wood/Rubber Gasket
• Timing chain guide HYUNDAI/KIA 244312B000

• Timing Chain Guide HYUNDAI/KIA 244202B000

Notes:

The Kia Rio 3 timing chain is a fairly reliable element, much more reliable than a belt, but still its resource is not unlimited. The period for replacing the chain is not regulated, but it is recommended to check its tension after 70-90 thousand kilometers. In general, the chain should work out about 150-200 thousand km.

Circuit failure symptoms: knocking or clanking when the engine is running, the engine is unstable. In this article, we are talking specifically about how the timing chain is replaced on the Kia Rio.

1. Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the battery.

2. With a “10” key, unscrew and remove the plastic cover on the engine.

3. Loosen the bolts and remove the engine cylinder head cover.

4. Remove the crankcase guard and the right side engine mudguard from the vehicle.

5. Set the piston of the 1st cylinder to the TDC position of the compression stroke.

6. Drain the engine oil from the crankcase.

7. Establish a secure base oil sump engine through a wooden or rubber gasket.

8. Turn away fixing bolts and nuts of an arm of the right support of a suspension bracket and remove it from the car engine.

9. Remove the accessory drive belt.

10. Remove the power steering pump top bolt.

11. Take the power steering pump Kia Rio 3 aside.

12. Open and remove fixing bolt tensioner drive belt auxiliary mechanisms(this bolt is reverse threaded). Remove the accessory drive belt tensioner.

13. Unscrew the 4 bolts securing the lower bracket of the right suspension support of the power unit to the engine and remove the bracket.

14. Turn out a bolt of fastening of an intermediate roller of a belt of a drive of auxiliary units and remove a roller.

15. Delete working fluid from the engine cooling system.

16. Loosen and remove the four coolant pump pulley mounting bolts while holding the pump pulley from turning. Remove the coolant pump pulley.

17. Turn away five fixing bolts of the pump of a cooling liquid to the block of cylinders of the engine and remove the pump.

18. Remove the gasket sealing the connection between the water pump and the engine block.

Note:

Gasket seal connecting the coolant pump and cylinder block must be replaced each time the pump is removed from the vehicle.

19. Holding the crankshaft pulley from turning special tool, unscrew the pulley mounting bolt and remove the pulley from the engine crankshaft.

Note:

If there is no tool to hold the pulley, then before unscrewing the bolt securing the accessory drive pulley, engage fifth gear in the gearbox and ask an assistant to depress the brake pedal.

20. Press the locking element of the wiring harness block, and then disconnect this block from the generator electrical connector.

21. Remove the harness holder from the generator along with the wires.

22. Open the cap protecting the generator output alternating current. Unscrew and remove the fixing nut of the alternator power wire lug, and then disconnect the wire from the alternator.

23. Loosen and remove the lower alternator mounting bolt.

24. Unscrew and remove the upper mounting bolt of the generator to the bracket.

25. Remove the alternator from the vehicle.

26. Remove the 2 bolts (red) securing the alternator bracket and remove the bracket.

27. Loosen and remove fourteen mounting bolts protective cover drive chain timing gear and remove the cover.

28. By using special device Or use a screwdriver to depress the shoe of the timing chain tensioner, and then fix the shoe from moving with the pin.

29. Loosen and remove the two timing chain tensioner mounting bolts.

30. Remove the timing chain tensioner.

31. Turn the exhaust camshaft clockwise slightly and remove the chain from the camshaft gears and from the crankshaft gear.

32. Install the chain in reverse order, following the marks on the camshaft gears and on the chain (colored links), making sure that the locating pin is on crankshaft was at the top.

33. Install the timing chain tensioner, and then remove the pin from the hole in it.

34. Remove the old sealant from the mating surfaces of the timing chain tensioner and engine block.

35. Apply a sealant to the mating surfaces of the engine block with a layer of 3-5 millimeters thick, then install the cover.

Note:

Screw in the fixing bolts and tighten evenly, in several stages:

• Ten-millimeter bolts with a torque of 9.8-11.8 Nm.
• Twelve-millimeter bolts with a torque of 18.6-23.5 Nm.

36. Check whether the marks on the camshaft gears and on the timing chain match, and then check the position of the engine crankshaft, the pin of which should be at the top.

37. Install all other parts in the reverse order of removal.

Note:

Replace the crankshaft oil seal every time you remove the timing chain cover..

38. Fill the engine with engine oil.

The article is missing:

• Tool photo
• Photo of parts and consumables
• Quality photos repair
• Repair Descriptions

The chain drive is reliable and practical. It is more durable than a belt drive, but there are exceptions to this rule. On some brands of machines, the chain is pulled out quite quickly. It can even break, although this happens quite rarely. If the chain drive is found to be stretched, it must be replaced immediately. This task is quite laborious, but it cannot be called impossible. Of course, you can take the car to a car service, but you have to pay there. This article is written for those who want to do everything with their own hands. Here we will talk about how to replace chain drive Timing for Kia Sid 1.6.

Definition of defects

The belt drive is moved outside the power unit, but the chain differs from it in that it is inside. Of course, there is a positive point in this - there is not much noise and there is constant lubrication of the consumable, but getting to the chain is more difficult because of this. To determine its condition, you have to remove the cover. The first thing you need to pay attention to is the unusual rumble that began to appear when the engine was running. This noise is difficult to confuse with something else. It comes from the timing side. When you hear this, you need to take action. Otherwise, the chain will start to jump over the teeth. This is clearly shown in the photo below.

The weakening of the tension can be due to the following reasons:

• the chain has stretched so much that the tensioner can no longer take up the slack;
• the tensioner is defective;
• dampers are worn out or broken;
• all the consumables of the mechanism have worn out - the tensioner, dampers, gears.

Of course, you first need to try to tighten the tensioner. To do this, the nut holding the plunger is loosened. After that, the crankshaft should be rotated 2 full turns, and the nut should be tightened again.

But modern tensioners are no longer designed for manual pulling. Here everything happens automatically. To verify the malfunction of this type of tensioner, it must be dismantled. To do this, you will have to disassemble the entire mechanism. That's the downside of modern technology.

Attention: if a rumble coming from the motor is detected, the chain must be replaced. Otherwise, the breakdown of the unit is guaranteed. Its severity can only depend on your luck. Most likely, there will be a collision of valves and pistons. After that, the motor will have to be seriously repaired.

More about the consequences of a breakdown

Here are some problems that can arise when signs of a chain drive malfunction appear:

• At the moment the motor is started, the chain begins to jump over the tooth. Often she jumps over several teeth.
• If the chain moves freely, it may well break the damper. The cylinder head is made of aluminum. It is a malleable metal, and a loose chain may well punch a hole in it.
• If a single row is installed on your car, then it may break off.

Note: Some car models have a single row chain, while others have a double row chain. The first option is not so durable, it will last no more than 100,000 km, and may even break off. The two-row version is much more reliable, it can work properly, even if the owner of the car has forgotten about its existence.

In the photo, a variant of a two-row chain:

But what can be the consequences of the above malfunctions:

• Due to chain jumping, the phases of the distribution of gases can be shifted. But this is the most harmless scenario. The power of the car will be greatly reduced and it will not start well. You won't be able to do it right the first time. Exhaust pipe may start shooting.
• With a displacement of 3 teeth, the piston may hit the valve, which, because of this, will not open at the right time.
• If the damper is badly worn, the chain will stretch even more.
• A break in a single-row chain leads to a mistiming of the movement of the shafts and a collision of valves and pistons.

The collision of valves and pistons is very serious. If set to 8 valve engine, but this may not happen even if the circuit is broken. This fact is due to the special device of the power unit. But in a 6-valve engine, a collision will definitely occur. Here are the most serious consequences of this:

• the valve seat is seriously damaged;
• pistons can be pierced;
• the cylinder head may be wrinkled, and it will have to be changed completely.

How long does the chain last

The service life of a chain drive is much longer than a belt drive. Different chains will work properly from 200,000 to 350,000 km. Of course, a lot depends on some factors. For example, if a driver practices aggressive driving, then the life of the chain on his car will be significantly reduced. increased loads and low quality engine oil also negatively affect the condition of the chain drive.

It has been observed that in cars Korean production chains are used, their service life can be limited to 90,000 km. And here german cars equipped with chains that will work properly up to 350,000 km. Therefore, the state of the timing on Korean cars should be diagnosed after 50,000 km.

Choosing a new consumable

Buy Consumables for the car you need only trusted sellers. Do not buy such products from artisanal manufacturers. And on the market, they may well “sell” them to you, packed in a package with famous brand. Check chain for deflection. It should not exceed 10 mm when placed flat on the palm of your hand. The chain you buy must have marks. Chains are made of hardened metal, so it should not be filed.

In addition to the chain itself, you will have to buy other consumables. These are gears, dampers, tensioner, gaskets and seals. If the gaskets with oil seals must be replaced, then the gears are changed only if necessary. The same goes for the tensioner. If you yourself cannot assess their condition, invite a specialist for this.

Replacement process

So, we have prepared all the necessary consumables. But what tools we need for repairs:

• open-end wrenches and heads with nozzles;
• jack and stand made of wood;
• empty containers for coolant and oil;
• hammer;
• pliers;
• screwdrivers;
• rag.

And now for the actions to be taken.

1. Drain antifreeze and engine oil.
2. Remove the lower engine cover and mudguards, as they are sure to get in the way.
3. Shoot front wheel on right.
4. We de-energize the car by disconnecting the terminal from the battery.
5. Remove the cover from the valve system.
6. Jack up the engine and unscrew the support brackets.
7. Remove the motor mount.
8. Remove the alternator belt and both rollers.
9. Remove the power steering pump pulley.
10. We dismantle the pump from the motor and unscrew the fasteners of the generator. We take him aside.
11. We jam the flywheel with a screwdriver and loosen the crankshaft pulley. After that we remove the pulley. Try not to lose the key.
12. Remove the cover by unscrewing all the bolts of its fastening.

13. All seats must be free of dirt and sealants.
14. We turn the crankshaft and combine all the marks on the sprockets with the marks on the motor housing or other landmarks.
15. Weaken the tensioner and remove the chain.
16. New chain stretched according to the marks.
17. All other parts are installed from the reverse.

Video tutorial