Copper grease for battery terminals. The better to lubricate the car battery terminals so that they do not oxidize

Copper grease for battery terminals. The better to lubricate the car battery terminals so that they do not oxidize

The operation of car batteries is associated with increased loads due to significant temperature fluctuations in the engine compartment, exposure to dirt, dust and moisture. In addition, sometimes there are situations associated with overheating of the battery and the release of excess pressure through the valves with the release of acid fumes.

All this inevitably leads to a gradual deterioration of contact and. To reduce the negative oxidizing effect of various reagents on the contact pads of the battery, lubricants are used that are smeared on top of securely assembled junctions.

Maintenance

Is it always necessary to protect the terminals from oxidation

In a technically sound car with a good battery, which does not have cracks on the case, including those caused by excessive force when tightening the terminals, their oxidation occurs very slowly. If the machine is parked in a dry and ventilated place, the risk of poor contact is further reduced.

Nevertheless, no matter in what ideal conditions the car is operated, oxidation and burning of contacts inevitably occur in it, which is most pronounced at the battery terminals, where huge currents of hundreds of amperes pass at the moment the starter is started. In addition, water vapor and oxygen are always present in the air, which slowly but surely lead to corrosion of metals.

In the presence of a whitish coating, which most often occurs on the positive terminal of the battery, the use of a protective lubricant makes it possible to continue operating the car if it is not possible to replace the battery. To do this, it is necessary to clean the contacts, put grease-soaked felt pads between the battery case and the terminals, connect them to the conductors, tighten and lubricate the contact connection from above. The negative terminal also needs protection from burnout and oxidation, due to the constant presence in the hot engine compartment with road dust and moisture.

The use of grease for the terminals will help extend the life of the battery and improve the overall reliability of the car. The use of special compounds to protect the battery terminals seems to be a reasonable preventive measure that can reduce the number of unpleasant surprises that can appear at the most inopportune moment.

How to lubricate the terminals from oxidation

The main purpose of lubricating electrical connections is to prevent dirt and oxygen from entering the contact point, which helps to ensure that they do not oxidize.

It is desirable that the protective coating does not collect excess dirt and performs its protective functions for as long as possible. There are many different options for protecting battery terminals, each of which has certain advantages and disadvantages. The main condition should be the absence of a corrosive effect on contacts, wire insulation and surrounding rubber parts, high temperature and acid resistance.

These are compositions, as a rule, based on mineral oil with the addition of graphite powder. They have good water repellency and excellent protection against corrosion. The usual graphite lubricant composition can withstand temperatures from -20 to +70 degrees, but there are also more expensive high-temperature options. In connection with the possible overheating of the engine compartment in hot weather, it is better to use them.

Graphite conducts electricity well, so its penetration into the contact joint does not worsen the electrical contact as much as a lubricant with dielectric properties does.


This type of grease withstands high temperatures, has anti-corrosion properties, adheres well to the surface, but does not conduct electricity. They are made on an oil basis with the addition of special additives and dyes that facilitate the application of a protective coating.

This is a good option for protection against oxidation when using special protection compounds, for example, from LiquiMoly, Addinol, Molykote, Gunk and others.


These lubricants are durable, have a high viscosity, conduct electricity well, withstand high temperatures (from -35 to several hundred degrees), perfectly protect against corrosion, moisture, and burnout.

Special copper lubricants for electrical contacts are available in the form of sprays, such as Berner, as well as copper dabs for highly loaded moving joints. They have different properties, but both options can be used to protect battery contacts.


These lubricants withstand temperatures from -30 to +130 degrees, have an average viscosity, adhere well to the surface and provide high tightness of electrical contacts.

A good wax-based compound is Presto Batterie Pol Schutz, which can withstand temperatures from -30 to +130 degrees and is easy to apply with an aerosol spray.


This is an excellent option for protecting contact joints with good resistance to hot vapors and disinfectant solutions. Silicone grease adheres well to surfaces, is neutral and can operate in a wide temperature range from -40 to +150 degrees. Produced by many trusted manufacturers, including Shell, Fuchs, Molykote, Roco and others.

The disadvantage of silicone lubricants is the need for regular renewal of the protective coating.


These include such common compounds as grease, lithol, cyatim 201, petroleum jelly. These compounds are used to protect against wear of rubbing surfaces, have a high fluidity, which increases with increasing temperature in the engine compartment, so they are not very suitable for protecting electrical contacts. In case of serious problems with the oxidation of contacts, they can be used to protect the terminals, but it is better to do this only in the winter season, when these lubricants are less fluid.

There are special formulations based on mineral oils containing special additives that improve their temperature resistance and therefore make them suitable for terminal protection. These include:

  • Liqui Moly Kupfer Spray is a copper powdered oil lubricant designed for brake pads. It can also be used as a protective coating for the outer surface of the contacts;
  • Liqui Moly Batterie Pol Fett is a special protective lubricant with a red dye. Permissible temperatures - from -40 to +60 degrees.
  • Vmpauto MC1710 - a mixture of various oils, as well as silicone with a blue dye. Can be used at temperatures from -10 to +80 degrees.

These lubricants are designed to form a dry coating on rubbing parts. They are not well suited for protecting electrical contacts due to their high penetrating power, which can impair electrical contact.

Breaking the contact in the battery terminals, where very strong currents flow, is not only undesirable, but also dangerous. In this regard, it is not recommended to use Teflon lubricants on contact joints.

How to properly lubricate terminals

The protective properties of the lubricant are provided only with serviceable and good electrical contacts in the protected joints. If it is not there, then applying lubricant will not restore it.

When applying lubricant to the terminals, it must be understood that it is not necessary to apply it between the contact surfaces so as not to impair conductivity. Before connecting the terminals to the conductors, it is necessary to achieve the ideal purity of the metal on the contacts, up to processing with a coarse cloth or fine sandpaper, wipe them with alcohol, and only then twist them. After that, it is necessary to apply a protective composition to the joint assembled and tightened with the necessary force. If the lubricant is thick, then it can be smeared on the contacts with a rubber glove, and when using a spray, treat the protected surfaces from a can.

The application of conductive copper grease inside the contact pads can be justified in case of their poor quality, the presence of large irregularities that reduce the total contact area.

Attention! If dielectric grease gets into the space between the contacts of the battery with the wiring of the car, this will worsen the conductivity of the contact and, at high current, will lead to burnout, an even greater deterioration in conductivity, as well as the risk of melting the wire insulation and even fire due to high temperature.

Precautionary measures

As a rule, all technical lubricants are toxic to the human body to one degree or another. Therefore, work on their application must be carried out with gloves. If technical lubricants come into contact with the skin, immediately wash them off with warm water and soap.

Important! When applying a protective lubricant, make sure that it does not get on rubber tubes, gaskets and other surfaces that do not need such treatment. This is necessary in order to avoid the damaging effect of the components contained in lubricants on these materials.

Oxidation of electrical conductors is a common problem that cannot be dealt with even in the 21st century. This electrical network malfunction is especially pronounced at the battery terminals.

The high discharge current, as well as the abundant evaporation of the electrolyte, significantly speed up the oxidation process, so you have to start dealing with "scale" from the moment you buy the car.

How to minimize, and what means to use for this purpose, will be described in detail in this article.

Causes of oxidation

In order to effectively combat this phenomenon, it is necessary to know under what conditions this process develops especially rapidly.

The most common causes of rapid oxidation are:

  1. Insufficient contact between pins and terminals.
  2. Electrolyte exit through microcracks.

To reduce the negative effects of the oxidation process, the terminals must be well tightened with a wrench. If this is not done, then very soon the car will stop starting due to the “scale” that has formed, which will prevent the normal flow of electric current.

The electrolyte at the exit to the surface accelerates the oxidation process. It is possible to cut rings from thin felt onto the pins.

How to deal with this phenomenon

If all preventive measures are observed, then you can additionally protect the battery from oxidation using special compounds.

Battery terminal grease is a plastic mass that can effectively protect the most important elements of the electrical equipment of a car or other device from oxidation. Despite the fact that the use of this composition does not provide one hundred percent protection, it is possible to significantly slow down the formation of plaque on electrical contacts.

Conductive grease provides reliable contact, which will not only increase the operational life of the battery, but also have a positive effect on all electrical wiring and vehicle equipment.

Lithol has been used as a lubricant for battery terminals for over 45 years. This composition well protects the surface from the formation of "scale". The widespread use of Litol was due to the lack of special lubricants in Soviet times.

Currently, the shelves of specialized stores are filled with various means that help extend the life of the battery. Such a variety of names does not make it easy to choose the right terminal protector, so before you go to the store for a purchase, you need to compare information about different manufacturers.

The best lubricants for battery terminals

Among the variety of protective equipment, there are several manufacturers whose products are in demand among motorists, and the price / quality ratio is as balanced as possible.

1. LIQUI MOLY (liqui moly) - allows the motorist to forget about the manifestation of the oxidation process for a long time.

If this composition is used from the first days of operation of the battery, then plaque does not form on the metal surface. The drug is supplied in the form of a 0.3 l aerosol can (price 510 rubles) and a 10 g stick pack (price 70 rubles, discontinued). This amount is sufficient to ensure uninterrupted operation of electrical contacts during the entire period of operation.

2. MS 1710 - high-quality grease at an affordable price. The cost of a stick pack of 10 g is 57 rubles, and an aerosol of 100 ml is 135 rubles.

Perfectly protects battery terminals from oxidation and other negative factors. Forms a protective film on the surface, which prevents the penetration of acid and moisture.

Reviews about MS 1710 are extremely positive, and this is not surprising because, in addition to a high degree of protection, this tool has a record low cost among similar means of protection.

3. ABRO BP-675 - aerosol composition. A 142 ml can is designed for repeated use, the price is 370 rubles. The protective layer remains after application for a long time and perfectly protects the terminals from acid corrosion.

Before applying lubricant to the surface, it is necessary to clean it from the formed “scale” layer, only in this case the use of the ABRO brand will help to reliably protect the battery contacts.

Conclusion

Protective grease can significantly increase the operational life of not only the terminals, but also the battery. Proper care of this element of electrical equipment will avoid a situation where starting a car caused by the formation of "scale" becomes impossible.

If it is not possible to purchase a high-quality mixture, you can use the "grandfather" method. Many motorists are interested in whether it is possible to lubricate the battery terminals with graphite grease?

This can be done only in case of emergency, it is also possible to use Litol, but these compounds are not able to fully protect the battery terminals.

Specialized tools do not cost a lot of money so that you can save a lot. And neglect of the rules for caring for the battery will lead to its early failure or to the inability to start the car engine.

They also figured out how to deal with a discharged battery and whether it is worth doing it ... But life has thrown a new situation, and it’s completely banal.

Gloomy morning, frost at -25, several attempts to start the car - and now you are already carrying the battery home for charging. Before you throw on the contacts of the "charger", clean the terminals - a certain amount of oxides and dirt has probably accumulated on them. We charged the battery, put it in, wound up ... you can go! And the contact groups at the places where the battery is connected, the same "minus" and "plus", remained dry. Do they need to be lubricated? For what? What to lubricate? How?

I must say that on all these, it would seem, fairly simple questions among the "experienced" disputes do not subside - imagine, this is one of those automotive topics on which you can argue endlessly. We, without delving into the secret knowledge of Kabbalah and divination on the sediment of motor oil, decided to give some average, one hundred percent guide on these issues. It will come in handy for both beginners and experienced ones, because such questions are rarely raised now - as a rule, we all get under the hood of a car no more often than it takes to top up the washer.

Do battery terminals need to be lubricated?

In fact, the terminals can not be lubricated. In the sense that a modern car can, in principle, not be monitored very much - at the very least it is capable of driving for some time without any maintenance at all. The current electrical circuits of the car and, in particular, batteries are designed in such a way that they need much less maintenance than before. However, the laws of physics and, in particular, the passage of time cannot be deceived - if the terminals are not lubricated, problems, including quite serious ones, will gradually begin to make themselves felt. Therefore, the answer here is this: you can not lubricate, but it is much better to do it anyway.

Why lubricate battery terminals?

Over time, oxides appear on the contact groups, which by themselves do not conduct electric current. In addition, dust and dirt accumulate in the engine compartment, some of it settles on the terminals and adds electrical resistance at the points of contact. The consequence of these processes is a drop in battery performance, a decrease in energy and difficulty during start-up. Some motorists prefer not to lubricate the terminals, but simply periodically clean them with fine sandpaper. But our task is precisely to protect, “preserve” the terminals, keeping them in a more or less pristine state, so that subsequently we do not have to get rid of oxides and dirt mechanically - this is not a very pleasant and fleeting process.

How to lubricate battery terminals?

Until about the 1970s, drivers used exclusively grease, nigrol or lithol for these purposes. The latter can still be easily found on sale under the full name "Litol-24". With the advent of VAZ cars, technical petroleum jelly was developed, which is also used today. Lithol and petroleum jelly are good, but they are easily washed off with shampoos and, in general, in comparison with modern products, form a less durable film. Therefore, you can use more advanced auto chemicals - in the store we just ask: “lubricant for electrical contacts” or “lubricant for battery terminals”.

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Many manufacturers have such lubricants, they are red, blue or blue in color, which makes it easier for you to understand whether there is a sufficient protective layer on the terminal. Lubricants are divided into conductive and those that do not conduct current. In addition, ordinary graphite grease, which also conducts current, can be used as terminal protection. And it seems like conductive lubricants are better in this case. However, as we can see from the next paragraph, the conductivity property should not be put at the forefront, because we are not lubricating the contact area, but the outer surfaces.

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How to lubricate battery terminals?

This mistake, oddly enough, is quite common - out of ignorance, a person lubricates the terminals on the battery, and then puts the terminals on them. In this way, a dried lubricant film can be obtained, which does not conduct current at all where it really needs to be carried out.

It is necessary to do exactly the opposite: put on the terminals, tighten them tightly and only after that apply lubricant - in a word, you need to lubricate the terminals on the wires, and it is on the outside, and the upper ends of the leads. If you use a modern lubricant in an aerosol can, the resulting "cap" can be slightly leveled. Of course, all work is best done with gloves.

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It is imperative to lubricate the terminals, and, in very simple words, this is necessary in order to have good contact so that there are no losses due to a poor connection. First, the appearance of oxides leads to energy losses, and start-up problems may occur. And secondly, the resistance increases on the contact group, which means that heat is generated, which can lead to sad consequences, up to the melting of the battery terminals and even the case. Before lubricating the terminals, they must be cleaned - with ordinary sandpaper or using special tools that are now on sale. Any water-repellent grease is suitable for lubricating the terminals.

Car owners are often faced with a situation where, due to the oxidation of the terminals on the battery, it is difficult to start the engine or “drawdown” of the on-board network voltage. In this case, the problem is not eliminated until the contacts are cleaned and processed.

The consequences of terminal oxidation only at first glance seem insignificant. In practice, they can cause serious costs in the future - both money and nerves.

Can battery terminals be lubricated?

The main question that novice car owners ask is whether it is possible to cover the battery terminals with grease. The answer is unequivocal - "Yes".

But this is not done for better contact, as many believe, but in order to protect the metal from oxidation.

The same Litol or other processing agents are dielectrics, therefore, they reduce the conductivity of contacts.

Their task is to protect non-ferrous metals from oxidative processes and the formation of dangerous deposits on the surface.

What are the causes of oxidation?

The appearance of oxide on the battery terminals is a signal for the car owner about the need to take urgent measures.

But you should not be limited only to stripping and processing conclusions - it is important to deal with the causes of plaque.

These include:


The causes of plaque on the terminals can be divided into two categories:

  • Electrolyte leakage caused by the condition of the battery or problems with other nodes.
  • Failure of the elements of the electrical network.

What is the danger of terminal oxidation?

Each car owner must monitor the condition of the battery and take measures to eliminate plaque.

If nothing is done, the following problems are possible:


The task of the driver is to control the condition of the battery, to do everything possible so that the junctions of the clamps and battery terminals do not oxidize.

Ignoring the problem will inevitably lead to the inability to start the engine due to self-discharge or other problems mentioned above.

Timely processing of the terminals with the use of high-quality lubricant guarantees protection against oxides. But more on that below.

How to deal with oxidation? Basic Methods

The main ones include:

Cleaning with sandpaper.

This method is considered one of the simplest and most affordable. To implement it, it is worth preparing sandpaper or a special brush with a metal bristle.

The first step is to remove the terminal from the electrode.

The next step is to take “fine” sandpaper or a brush with a metal bristle, and then process the junction of the battery terminal and the tip.

Special attention should be paid to the inside of the terminal. In this case, the work is done until the appearance of shine.

The main thing here is not to overdo it, so as not to damage the surface of the product.

The second option is the use of gasoline, which also copes well with plaque.

For processing, it is enough to moisten a small piece of cloth, and then treat the battery terminals and electrodes with a rag until the surface is completely cleaned of plaque.

In the process of processing, care should be taken due to the easy flammability of gasoline. In addition, it is not recommended that the device come into contact with rubber or plastic elements (gasoline acts on them in a negative way and can destroy them).

The main method of combating oxidation is to monitor the condition of the battery and protect it from the appearance of electrolyte leakage through the electrodes.

If such a problem occurs, the car owner has two ways:

Replace the failed node. This option is the most efficient, but the most expensive. Not all car owners are ready to immediately spend a large amount on the purchase of a new battery. But when a break occurs at the output of the electrode, there is no other way.

Provide good insulation. Here you can use one of the already proven methods or use modern means of protection (more on them below).

Can a lubricant remove oxides from a metal surface?

Among beginners, there is an opinion that a good lubricant protects the surface and removes already existing traces of oxidation. This is mistake.

If oxides appear on the terminal, applying a special composition (even the most expensive one) will not work.

The only solution is to remove the tips and clean the terminals until they shine, and after connecting, they are treated with a special lubricant.

The task of such lubricants is not to eliminate the consequences, but to prevent their occurrence.

Prevention Secrets

It is important to understand that even in a new battery, slight acid fumes occur. This means that the best way to protect against trouble is to ensure the tightness of the product.

It is forbidden to apply special materials directly to the contact point. First, the area is cleaned, wiped, and after the connection is processed.

Popular defenses include:


How to lubricate the terminals to ensure contact and protect them from oxidation?

Let's consider what actions to take so that the leads and wire lugs do not oxidize.

Here it is worth highlighting several groups of products:

  • "Grandfather" methods. This implies the use of time-tested lubricants - Nigrol, Litol or grease. After stripping the terminals and their tight broach, a lubricant is applied to the surface. With proper processing, reliable protection against breakdown and leakage for 6-8 months is provided.
  • Petrolatum- another effective remedy for possible problems with oxidation. It is allowed to use the technical and pharmacy version of the product. But many experts are skeptical about vaseline (unlike grease). The reason is that it protects the metal surface from moisture and prevents the terminal from sticking to the battery terminal. The main disadvantage of petroleum jelly is its high resistance, which causes problems with conductivity. To avoid difficulties, the addition of a graphite-based lubricant to the composition is recommended.
  • Machine oil. This protection method is designed for the laziest car owners who do not want to spend time looking for lubricant or money to buy it. Each time the oil level is checked, a small amount of oil is applied to the terminal (so that the terminals do not oxidize). If you do this work regularly, the battery will not need preventive maintenance soon.
  • Solidol. This option is considered one of the simplest and most affordable. But many car owners make a mistake - they apply a lubricant between the wires and battery terminals. Subsequently, under the action of high temperatures, the lubricating composition hardens and sets, a dense and dry crust appears. Its peculiarity lies in the inability to conduct current, which increases the risk of losing contact. In the future, cleaning off the hardened composition is a whole problem. By the way, such difficulties can also be encountered in the case of using other lubricating compounds (including modern ones).
  • What are the disadvantages of using old greases like Litol?

    The main advantage of the "old-fashioned" terminal processing methods is accessibility.

    At the same time, budget lubricants have a number of disadvantages:

    The presence of a loose (“loose”) structure, which contributes to the adhesion of dirt and low resistance to shampoo (easily washed off).

    The absence of useful additives and additives in the composition. Also, dye is not provided here, which is a serious minus for many car owners.

    Insufficient energy conductivity, which reduces the efficiency of the power supply.

    Despite a number of shortcomings, many car owners continue to use Litol-24 lubricants.

    What lubricants are suitable for the winter?

    To protect the terminals from oxidation in cold weather, the use of special compounds is recommended.

    The most requested include:

  • Molykote HSC Plus- a composition that is intended for batteries of the FIAMM series, but can also be used for other devices. The advantages are high electrical conductivity and the ability to work in a wide temperature range (-30 ... +1100 degrees Celsius).
  • Tsiatim- Affordable option. Its main disadvantage is its low conductivity.
  • Spray cleaners. In this series, products from the following manufacturers are in demand - Hi-Gear, SVITOL and others. It is based on purified oil, which, after hitting the surface, “squeezes out” moisture and provides a reliable protective layer-film. The latter protects the surface from oxidative processes and the appearance of dirt. The main disadvantage is the short action of the composition.
  • Grease type lubricants (options - LIQUI MOLY, Gunk). In structure, these are thick formulations that look like a cream and also have an oil base. Their advantage lies in the ease of application, because you can not be afraid of getting the composition where it is not needed. In addition, the lubricant stays on the surface longer and is not washable with shampoo. That is why many craftsmen recommend choosing just such products for winter processing.
  • How to apply lubricant, and where is the best place to process?

    In order to extend the life of the lubricant and ensure the protection of the terminals from oxides, it is important to strictly follow the technology for applying protective compounds.

    Here the algorithm of actions is as follows:

    • Cleaning the surface of the terminal and nearby places from contamination. This is required to reduce resistance to a minimum.
    • Cleaning the terminals and putting them on the battery. Next, it remains to tighten the nut for maximum fixation.
    • Processing of the top and side of the tip and output. It is important not to miss anything here in order to avoid moisture getting on the surface.

    It is worth learning that lubricating the inside of the terminal before applying to the battery is prohibited. Otherwise, it will not be possible to achieve high-quality contact, and the processing itself will only bring harm.

    Is it possible to clean the terminals mechanically, e.g. with sandpaper?

    If you act without fanaticism, such processing is permitted. Furthermore, many manufacturers recommend cleaning the contacts with fine grit sandpaper before applying the protective compound.

    This ensures the removal of oxides and the cleaning of the surface from dirt. Previously, special "brushes" with a metal pile (external or internal type) were used for processing.

    Some cars have badly designed batteries.

    Their feature is the presence of a personal lid for each jar, which is why dust and dirt accumulate in these areas.

    There are several such traffic jams, so the amount of garbage increases several times.

    To protect against contamination, it is possible to make a cap made of felt material for each of the conclusions, followed by impregnation with oil.

    The second option is to make a general cover that looks like an anther. For such purposes, it is allowed to use a piece of linoleum or a rubber mat (for example, from the "classics").

    All that is required is to cut the product to the required size and fix it on top.

    Video - terminal cleaner.

    Very often, during diagnostics, car owners look under the hood and notice that the battery terminals are covered with a white coating. To save and extend the life of the battery, and, as a result, the performance of the car, you need to understand why this happens and how to deal with it.

    Causes of Terminal Oxidation

    To begin with, it is worth mentioning what the main task of the battery is to ensure a reliable engine start. All other functions are secondary. Due to the presence of a battery, the on-board systems of the car can work even when the engine is turned off, but still its main task is to start the engine. Due to the complexity of the battery device, it can either degrade its performance, or even fail.

    The main battery failures are:

    1) Oxidized terminals and pins;

    2) Broken body integrity, leading to leakage of electrolyte;

    3) Excessively fast self-discharge.

    Now about the causes of oxidation. The main reasons why a white coating appears on the terminals are:

    1) Electrolyte leakage. This is the state of the battery itself. This often happens during recharging - this can happen due to the alternator and the battery charging circuit. Another reason for leakage may be the short circuit of the cells on the battery, as well as the different density of the electrolyte. Also remember about the quality of the battery case. The electrolyte may leak from the cracks and cracks formed in the housing. The terminals can also oxidize due to electrolyte getting onto it through a slot near the battery contact. It is formed while the terminal vibrates or loosens in the housing itself.

    2) Problems with the car electrical network. The root cause of plaque formation is poor contact between the contact and the battery terminal itself. Another similar phenomenon takes place due to poor contacts in contact groups, relays and other narrow areas of wiring.

    3) Clogged vent holes in battery cans. Due to the accumulated dirt, the pressure of the electrolyte located in the battery increases. Due to excessive pressure, fluid may leak out of the openings in the housing.

    Basically, oxidized terminals indicate that it will soon come when you have to replace the battery. Regardless of the reasons for the appearance of traces of electrolyte on the battery terminals, the leaking acid has an extremely negative effect on the condition of your car.

    In order to determine if acid has got on the terminals of your battery, it is enough to rinse it with a warm solution of soda (the maximum is a ten percent solution, otherwise hard-to-wash white spots form). If there was acid on the terminals, then traces of the electrolyte will begin to wash off, this will manifest itself through a boiling reaction and the release of a small amount of heat. It is advisable to carry out this operation on a prepared container, so that nothing gets on the body parts. If you can remove the battery, then do so so that you can flush the battery either outside or in the garage. If the soda has not “taken” the white coating, then use sandpaper or a knife. You can generally purchase a special brush for cleaning the terminals.

    Often on the forums you can read that the car owner will clean the battery terminals with gasoline, after which he was blinded by the brilliance of the metal. Always remember that gasoline is a combustible material that has the properties of a solvent, so during cleaning it can dissolve rubber and plastic. But the best option is to prevent oxidation, and not sequentially remove electrolyte residues from the terminals. The sooner you find the problem and eliminate the cause of its occurrence, the less damage the car will receive.

    Oxidation Control Methods

    Remember that even in a fully functional and working battery, a small amount of acid will still evaporate. Therefore, absolutely all methods of combating oxidation come down to ensuring the tightness of the connection. Never allow any protective compound to come into contact with the contact itself. The surface of the terminals and pins must be protected and wiped dry, after which all connections must be securely fixed. Only at the end of these procedures can a protective coating be applied. The following methods are known to protect the terminals from the formation of white acid deposits on them:

    1) Oil and felt. This method has been tested for years, as it is known that our grandfathers chose this method of protection. That is why this option is so popular among car owners. In order to prevent electrolyte vapor from falling on the terminal and not harming it, as well as to minimize the impact of external factors on the terminal, they are covered with felt, which was previously soaked in engine oil.

    In order to do this, you need to cut out a round gasket from felt with a hole in the middle. The prepared gasket must be soaked with oil and put on the battery contact (terminal). After that, you need to put on the terminal of the on-board network of the machine on the contact, that is, screw it on, after which you also need to put an oiled felt gasket on top.

    2) Varnish, grease, technical vaseline. In principle, you can take any liquid material that is not washed off and insulates. Silicone lubricant works great. It is this material that is used by car owners due to the fact that all other materials absorb dust and dirt.

    3) Felt washers. The method is the same as with felt. A washer must be put on the terminal in order to protect it.

    4) Special grease (anti-grease) with anti-corrosion properties. These products are sold in the form of aerosols, which must be applied to the terminals. You can find this tool in a specialized store.

    The choice of grease for battery terminals

    It is necessary to choose a lubricant for battery terminals clearly, otherwise problems may arise. Negligence when choosing can turn into a need to start “from the push”, and after a while you will have to completely replace the battery, since it will completely fail. Restoring a battery is a very costly business in terms of finances, and the purchase will cost even more. The issue of choosing lubricant for terminals is a subject of controversy that has not subsided for a long time. Among car owners there are adherents of the latest technical developments in the industry, while someone prefers proven methods. Arguments for and against should be considered.

    Carrying out preventive maintenance is the key to a long battery life. Since preventing the formation of plaque is better than permanently removing it, you need to find out the root cause of this phenomenon. In this matter, it is enough to simply seal through which electrolyte vapors escape. Before you lubricate the terminals, you need to remove the already formed oxide and accumulated dust from the battery. It was previously said that traces of electrolyte vapors are removed with a soda solution, while dust can be removed with ordinary distilled water.

    The most popular lubricant is the time-tested solidol. This option is very common, as it has been used for a long time. After the terminals are tightened, grease must be applied to them with a thin layer. After that, for about six months you will forget about the problem, then only on condition that everything is tight, and there is also no breakdown. Next in popularity is vaseline - both pharmacy and technical. Although this method is quite contradictory, if only because grease is used even by those who prefer innovation. Vaseline will protect the terminals well enough from moisture, does not allow them to be soldered to the battery case, but there are problems with conductivity.

    In order to overcome them, you need to add graphite lubricant to Vaseline. For the lazy ones: when you check the oil, dab the dipstick on the terminals. Since the oil level needs to be checked frequently, the lubricant will be updated regularly, it will not be necessary to carry out preventive maintenance soon, but only if it works properly. It is advisable to remove accumulated dust from the surface from time to time. You can make a mistake that many people made before you - when processing grease, many lay it between the battery terminals and wires.

    At the same time, car owners do not remember that under conditions of high temperature, which is overtaken during the operation of the “heart” of the car, solid oil solidifies, that is, as a result we have a dry, very dense crust. Current will not pass through it, from which the contact disappears. It is very difficult to remove this very crust. Such warnings apply not only to grease, but also to other lubricants - the problems that arise during their operation are also quite difficult to eliminate.

    If you are an adherent of technological progress, then grease from auto shops will suit your battery. Molykote HSC Plus grease, which was developed specifically for batteries, received very good reviews. FIAMM, although applicable to other batteries. It is characterized by a sufficiently high electrical conductivity, as well as the ability to maintain its technical characteristics at temperature fluctuations from -30 to +1100°C. Next in popularity are German spray lubricants.

    They do not create transient resistance, but provide a stable voltage. It is very convenient to use - you just need to press the button, after which you can apply lubricant. This lubricant is not afraid of temperature, and it will not allow oxidation from electrolyte fumes. The most loyal in terms of price is the Ciatim tool, but it has problems with conductivity - some consider it insufficient.

    It is clear that the manufacturer does not always select the battery in good faith, or rather, the installed devices do not have the most successful design, each can may have its own lid, under which dirt and dust will surely penetrate. Since there are several plugs, the risk of debris getting into the electrolyte increases significantly. For all plugs, you can make a felt cap, after soaking the material in oil, but it will be quite difficult to make, install and use such a device. It would be more reasonable to decide to make a general protection - something like anther. Even linoleum is suitable for this, but outwardly it will not look very aesthetically pleasing. You can take a rug from the "classics", which needs to be made according to the size of the lid. Here he lies like a glove.

    Be vigilant when diagnosing a battery. It is important to detect the problem in time so that it does not develop further to more disastrous consequences. I wish you success.



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