Slaps and flecks of bitumen are best seen on white paint. Ordinary car shampoos do not take them, but the right special cleaner washes them off in a “one or two” way. The main condition: before use, read the manufacturer's instructions in order to wash off the dirt and not damage the varnish. Usually, after treating the stains, you need to pause for the product to work, and then the stain is easily erased from the varnish.
Despite its stickiness, bitumen is one of the most harmless pollutants. Even after a month or a year, the bitumen stain is washed off without a trace, and the paintwork under it remains intact.
Myth. Bitumen must be washed off immediately, otherwise it will eat through the varnish, and then nothing can wash it off.
Is it true. The age of the bituminous stain does not matter. Fresh and old pollution are removed equally easily and quickly. Most likely, this myth arose due to the use of inefficient cleaners. A good special tool removes bitumen without a trace.
How to wash bituminous and tar stains? It is ideal to use special cleaners. They wash off such pollution quickly and without a trace. If you need an economical option, then instead of special cleaners, you can use any solvent such as white spirit, diesel fuel or kerosene.
Kerosene and diesel fuel wash off the bitumen without harming the paintwork. It is better not to experiment with solvents at random.
2. Wood resin and glue from poplar buds. holes in varnish
This problem is very often encountered by motorists who park in the shade of spreading trees. It would seem that what is terrible in tree resin? Natural products, by definition, should be useful. But in fact, the opposite is true. Wood resins easily combine with heated varnish. The higher the temperature of the paintwork, the faster the adhesion occurs. The leaders of the risk group are Japanese cars, which traditionally have a varnish that is both softer and thinner. If the resin or wood glue has time to connect with the varnish, then the traces will remain on it forever.
Tree resin is a real problem. Firstly, it is really difficult to wipe off without damaging the varnish. Secondly, if you do not remove it immediately, it connects to the varnish layer, and even after removing the old stain, the varnish layer looks damaged. Therefore, very often the owners expensive cars immediately go with such pollution to specialists.
- In some cases, these are stains that are removed only by polishing.
- In some cases, these are craters that are removed only by painting.
Myth. Wood sap can be removed by any cleaning agent. bitumen stains.
Is it true. Only some bitumen cleaners cope with tree resins. Bitumen and wood resins are of different nature and chemical composition therefore, it is correct to use special cleaners to remove them.
Myth. There is no protection against tree resin. The main thing is not to let the resin eat into the paint. The faster you wash off, the less the risk of “perpetual” stains.
Is it true. Some types of ceramic protective coatings such as " liquid glass» are highly resistant to wood resin. Yes, with prolonged contact, even the coolest ceramics will most likely give way to poplar "glue", but the factory varnish will remain safe and sound. The rule “The faster you wash off, the less risk” also applies in this case.
This is the same "orange" - a cleaner that professionals use to remove organic contaminants. Including wood resin. Services and detailings buy such a tool in large cans. For domestic use it is bottled.
Wash yourself? Or don't wash?
- If the stains have appeared recently and formed on a cold body, then it is better to clean them off immediately - on your own. You need to use a special cleaner. Instructions for use are written on the packaging. They must be observed.
- If the spots are fresh, and they appeared on a hot body, then it makes sense to quickly send the car to the detailing. It is in the detailing, and not in the "fur washing". In detailing, the car will be properly cooled and washed with an “orange” - special composition containing fruit components that perfectly wash out the resin and do not destroy the varnish.
- If the stains are old, and the dirty surfaces have been heated, you need to send the car to the detailing shop to be cleaned, polished and treated with protection.
There are in nature and special means for removing poplar buds. But it should be remembered that even such autocosmetics work with timely use. It is worth being late, and a rough spot will remain on the paintwork.
3. Lime. White spots that won't wash off
Ceilings in parking lots are usually whitewashed with lime. It protects floors from mold and mildew. But when water flows from above through the ceilings onto the cars, lime pours along with it. And she is famous for her causticity. Whitish spots usually appear after the streaks have dried. If the lime is removed immediately, then it will not have time to cause significant harm. But there are cars that do not leave the parking lot for weeks. And if for such vehicle lime spills, there are serious risks. Machines with hard varnish leave lime stains that are removed by polishing. Machines with thin, soft lacquer may experience complete destruction or peeling off of the lacquer layer. In this case, defects are removed by painting.
Lime streaks must not be rubbed as they contain abrasive particles. However, they can be dissolved using a liquid decalcifier or a household limescale cleaner. They are applied with a sprayer. But they must be used with extreme caution so as not to dissolve the varnish together with lime.
Myth. Lime stains can be removed by yourself with a solution citric acid or vinegar.
Is it true. It's better not to risk it, because trying to remove stains on your own makes it difficult for specialists who will eventually have to bring this matter to a happy ending. Yes, acidic compounds are used to remove lime, but these are special substances that need to be skillfully and competently applied. In addition, very often, after removing the lime, whitish spots still remain on the varnish, but these are no longer dirt, but matte areas with damaged varnish. They need to be polished. In cases of catastrophic bad luck, lime damage has to be painted over.
If lime stains are found on the car, and there is nothing to wash off, use ordinary lemon juice or vinegar. Using a sprayer will speed up the process.
4. Metal dust. Rust that washes away
Owners of light cars may experience a slight shock when they find traces of rust appearing on the outside of the whole paintwork. Is it time to sell the car? Before you panic, try washing off the rust. Often the appearance of "spiders" is provoked by pieces of metal soldered into the paintwork. Usually it is a metal crumb that flies from brake pads. It is hot and, getting on the varnish, instantly sticks to the surface. Then, under the influence of moisture, the metal dust is oxidized, and rust spots appear on the paintwork.
This is the case when you need to use only special tools. To remove shoe dust good cleaners and at Liqui Moly, and KochChemie.
Myth. The metal chips from the pads are harmless. It can be washed with ordinary detergents in the country or at a self-service car wash.
Is it true. The danger of metal dust should not be underestimated. It is soldered into the varnish and leaves microcraters on it. It cannot be rubbed off, as metal particles will scratch the varnish. Places of localization of metal dust should be treated special tool which will dissolve the metal. The ideal way to solve the problem is to wash the car in detailing from time to time, so that specialists wash not only the body, but also wheel disks, which are sprinkled with metal spray from the pads. If this is not done, the discs will quickly lose their appearance - they will look old and rusty.
5. Road reagents. Something not to be feared but to be feared
In the cold season, cars simply bathe in a variety of chemicals. The roads are watered with reagents, sprinkled with sand and salt, and “anti-freeze” pours from the washer nozzles. And this cocktail gets on the paintwork. The most dangerous component of the mixture are road chemicals. They usually leave spots on the paintwork yellow color. They are washed in the process of daily washing. Particularly resistant fragments of stains are erased with bitumen cleaners.
Rumors about the destructive properties of road chemicals are in fact greatly exaggerated. Road chemistry "likes" to penetrate damage to the paintwork, it actively interacts with bare metal. So it is extremely important before starting winter season repair all chips on the paintwork and process the car protective composition"liquid glass" type.
Myth. Car manufacturers know the problem of road chemicals, so modern machines immunity from them. It is not necessary to protect the machine with coatings.
Is it true. This would be true if all countries used the same reagent for decades. Unfortunately, up to 6 types of reagents are used on the roads of Moscow alone. Almost every year, a new “chemistry” is introduced, which means that the cars were definitely not specifically prepared for this “new” one. Therefore, on the eve of the winter season, it was decided to expensive cars apply protective coatings. They take on the impact of reagents, prevent the formation of an ice crust, repel water and dirt. In general, they save the paintwork and save the owner's money.
6. Insects. Evil is in their blood
Insects are such a nasty thing. If in the city they are annoying, then outside the city they simply harass motorists. A cloud of midges in an instant deprives the driver of the review, and on high speed such a “surprise” is a direct road to an accident. Water and wipers can't handle the mess of broken insects. Washing the “frontal” is quickly obtained only with the use of special detergents. And if insects break on a hot hood, then a new risk arises: the slurry quickly combines with softened varnish, and with it hard blotches penetrate into the paint - chitin and dirt.
Coca-Cola has proven to be a great cleaner. It is also suitable for removing insects from the hood and windshield. The part to be washed is pre-washed with water to wash away debris. At the second stage, the surface is moistened with a drink. Give it a little time to work, and wash off with plenty of water.
It is necessary to remove insects with special means and as often as possible so that the caustic porridge does not have time to penetrate into the varnish. If a machine with insects sits in the hot sun for several days, you cannot clean it yourself, because there is a risk of damage to the paintwork. The right decision is to drive the car into detailing. There it will be washed using a special shampoo, and the damage, if any, will be polished.
Myth. Regular dish detergent and a dish sponge clean insects from the hood at once!
Is it true. If at the moment of contact with the insect the surface was cold, and the traces are washed off immediately - fresh, then yes: no consequences will happen and the Fairy will cope. But if insects accumulated on an already hot hood, and even “fried” in the sun in a traffic jam, then you need to go to the car wash without delay. Before washing, all flip-flops should be treated with special means to remove insects. And be sure to read the instructions!
How to protect the car from insects?
The most troublesome way: every day to clean the LPK using special cleaners. However, even with this approach, the safety of the varnish is not guaranteed. More reliable option: cover the body with a protective compound or films.
7. Bird droppings. Extreme causticity
Drivers know how dangerous bird excrement is, so they try to remove it from the paintwork immediately. Problems begin if the litter gets on a car, which, for example, stands idle for a long time. If the litter is not washed off immediately, it will corrode the varnish, penetrate the base coat of paint, and even oxidize the metal. Therefore, when such dirt is found, it is necessary to immediately pour cola and wipe it off with at least a damp cloth, but it is better to wash it off. plain water or an improvised detergent. If traces appear on the varnish, do not try to clean them off. It is better to show them to a specialist so that he can suggest how best to remove them. Most often, defects from litter are removed by polishing.
To fight bird droppings there are many special tools. If the car came under a powerful bird attack, urgent action must be taken. From improvised means, you can use the same Coca-Cola or a similar drink. If you have dish detergent, you can use that too. The faster the litter is washed away, the less harm it will bring.
If you do not immediately remove bird droppings, then such ugly traces may remain in its place. Defects of such depth are removed only by painting.
8. Alien paint. On smooth it sticks worse!
Not sure - don't smudge! In order to completely remove foreign paint from the body and not damage the paintwork, you need to know exactly the composition and origin of the stain.
paint off road markings It has an epoxy base, so it adheres strongly to the paintwork. Most likely, it will not work to wash it off with improvised means. You can try rubbing with isopropyl alcohol. Sometimes it helps. You can use polishing clay, but here you need to take into account that it has abrasive properties, which means that after cleaning the stain localization site will need to be polished and protected. In practice, paint from road markings has to be removed by abrasive polishing.
Good ceramic coating with hydrophobic properties - best defense from hooligan graffiti. Foreign paint is simply washed off with water from a protected car.
Myth. Each paint has its own solvent. For the most part, they are not capable of harming the car's varnish. Therefore, any paint stain can be erased without damaging the paintwork.
Is it true. Solvents should be used with caution as automotive varnishes different brands they do not respond in the same way. Before scrubbing a stain in a conspicuous place, take a test where it will not be critical to spoil the paintwork: somewhere in engine compartment. If the varnish does not become cloudy, you can start cleaning.
Every paint has its own solvent. the main problem- determine the type and type of paint. When this is done, choosing a solvent is not a problem. In any case, it must be used with caution, because it is not known how the caustic liquid will affect the varnish of your car.
Alien paints are removed from the car body with solvents. Not everyone can find the right solvent on the first try. So that experiments do not ruin the paintwork, solvents must first be checked for aggressiveness.
How to protect your car from alien colors?
Some protective coatings have a powerful hydrophobic effect, which helps not only against water, but also against foreign paint. The top hydrophobic layer resists dirt adhesion. Therefore, even car paint from a spray bottle, applied to the body of a protected car, easily comes off during the washing process. Of course, such coatings make even abrasive paint removal safe, because in this case, not the factory paintwork is polished, but protective layer.
9. Concrete. Evil squared
You can plunge into concrete anytime, anywhere. There is always a risk of catching a drop liquid solution from the “mixer” driving in front, you can unsuccessfully park near the house whose facade is being repaired. What to do if you are not lucky?
Construction cleaners for concrete should be used with caution, as they can aggressively interact with car enamels. Before cleaning the paintwork, try applying the cleaner to the body in a place where the defect that has arisen will not be noticeable. For example, there are suitable surfaces in the engine compartment.
Qualitative concrete mortar sets very quickly, hardens and has good adhesion. If the stain has not fully set, you can try to dissolve it with an epoxy grout cleaner. This tool is used by master builders to remove stains from freshly laid tiles. If it does not help, you need to go to specialists. Most likely, they will wash away the stain with acid. It is dangerous to carry out this operation on your own. Working with professional acid-based cleaners requires certain knowledge and skills. After cleaning, the spot localization of the stain will require polishing, since it will not be possible to fully protect the varnish layer from the negative effects of sand and acid.
Afterword
The modern chemical industry produces cleaners for almost all types of contaminants. It is important to choose them carefully and apply them wisely. If the remedy of one manufacturer does not work, this does not mean that the analogue from another brand will be just as useless. And price is not always an indicator of efficiency. Sometimes cheap car chemicals work better than expensive ones. If one cleaner doesn't work, try another.
This car is treated with iShield ceramic protection. The coating forms a layer with a hardness index of 9H+. It protects against foreign paints, is not afraid of droppings and insects.
But if you are not inclined to risky experiments, then it would be more correct to immediately turn to specialists in detailing. They will put a solid on the paintwork protective covering- ceramics or liquid glass. A durable protective layer will take on all the negative impacts, whether it be bitumen, marking paint, poplar resin, crushed insects or bird droppings. This protection does not always save you from stones flying at high speed, but it will help you to survive without consequences in the fur-washing.
The long winter is behind us. Finally, the snowdrifts and ice have disappeared. But you shouldn't be so happy. Any experienced car owner knows what is for him iron horse V winter time negative temperatures and snow are not so terrible. Much more worrying is the salt and reagents that utilities use to save the city from snow. No matter what anyone says, modern chemicals that dissolve snow are so aggressive that they cause serious damage to the car body.
Reagents can ruin even painted car parts, not to mention bare metal. Photo: rustcheck.com
Influenced low temperatures and salt, the varnish layer on the car becomes thinner and tarnishes. Then the paint begins to deteriorate and rust appears. Corrosion also affects parts on the bottom of the car. Repainting a car body is not a cheap pleasure, so washing the car after the winter is a must. And you need to do it carefully. If the washing is not carried out carefully, salt and reagents will remain in hard-to-reach corners of the body, which will lead to destruction paintwork. Particularly relevant is a comprehensive car wash after winter in cities and suburbs, where a large number of chemicals on the roads.
Professional car wash
It is best to entrust car washing after winter to professionals. As a rule, in special sinks there is everything necessary tools for quality work. Professionals know where the salt lingers the longest in the car.
In addition, in specialized car washes there are solutions and detergents that do not damage the paintwork on the car. Be sure to use the service of cleaning the bottom and arches of the car. This will help remove salt and reagents.
It is also worth remembering that throughout the winter, salt on the shoes of a motorist and his passengers got into the car interior. Rubber mats do not always save, so for three winter months reagents can accumulate a decent amount. They not only spoil the interior, but also cause allergic reactions, especially in children. Therefore, when a motorist performs complex washing car after the winter, you should not forget about the interior either.
Self car wash
If you don’t want to trust your car to other people or you are used to doing everything yourself, then you can wash your car after winter on their own. Photo: premereautodetail.com
If there is a box or other room where you can wash your car, that's great. But if it's not there, don't worry. You can also wash your car outside. You just have to take into account the weather. In sunny or windy weather, the car should not be washed. The most suitable day is when it is cool, not in direct sunlight and strong wind. For quality washing after winter, the owner of the car must have:
- Large soft sponge.
- Hard brush.
- Vacuum cleaner (preferably more powerful and mains powered).
- Nozzles for a vacuum cleaner (at least three, of different shapes).
- Car shampoo (for body and interior).
- Special tool for removing bituminous and greasy stains.
- Wiping suede that does not leave streaks.
- Large water tank.
Before you start washing, it is better to put on rubber boots. Otherwise, your feet will get wet quickly.
It is clear that you need to wash your car thoroughly after the winter, so there must be an uninterrupted water supply to which you can connect a watering hose. If there is no such source, then it is better not to wash it yourself.
Procedure
First you need to pour the car well clean water from a hose. This is necessary in order to wash off the dried dirt. After dousing, the machine should stand for a while so that the dirt soaks naturally. It is strictly forbidden to scrape and scrape dirt from the car with improvised means! Even imperceptible scratches on the paintwork will lead to corrosion in the future.
If the upper layers of dirt can be washed off with plain water, then reagents, exhaust gas residues, various greasy stains cannot be washed in this way. Therefore, in a container with water (preferably warm), it is necessary, following the manufacturer's instructions, to dissolve the car shampoo for the car body. It is forbidden to wash the car with various solvents, powders, bleaches or other means not intended for this procedure! You need to start washing from the top of the car. First, the roof is washed with a large sponge, then the doors, trunk and hood. And only in the very last turn wash bumpers and sills.
To wash the underbody and arches, you can use a special tool for washing car sills. It cleans well the reagents accumulated after the winter. This procedure must be carried out after the winter. If this is not done, the salt will remain for a long time and begin to corrode the parts of the bottom of the car.
Immediately after washing, you need to inspect the car for the presence of bituminous stains. If they are, then they must be removed with a special tool that is designed for these purposes. Photo: irecommend.ru
If there are no stains and you are satisfied appearance coatings, then the machine must be poured over with a hose big amount water. To clear away leftovers detergent. Then the car should be wiped with a dry cloth. To wipe the windows, you can use a special suede that does not leave streaks.
In the car interior, salt and reagents may remain in the lower part. That's why rubber mats be sure to wash with shampoo and then rinse with plenty of water to wash off the remnants of the product. While the mats are drying, the interior of the car (especially its lower part) must be thoroughly vacuumed. For this, nozzles of various shapes are useful to get dirt from hard-to-reach places.
You can also learn how to wash the bottom of a car after winter from this video:
Outcome
Every car owner makes a choice in favor of a professional or self-washing car after winter. The advantage of self-cleaning is a more responsible attitude to work. And the disadvantage may be in the absence necessary materials or special knowledge for the quality of the work.
A clean car is the pride of any motorist. However, not everyone can turn a car body into a perfectly clean and smooth surface. As a result, many motorists do not risk getting down to business on their own and use the services of specialized car washes.
In reality, everything is much simpler. Self cleaning car body is available to everyone. You need to get right to the point and use suitable remedy from a wide arsenal offered by manufacturers of auto cosmetics. High-quality cleaning is especially relevant for the subsequent application of various polishes and compositions.
We choose cleaners in accordance with the type of pollution
1. Surface stains.
City dust or dirt from puddles leave their very noticeable traces. However, getting rid of these contaminants is extremely simple. You must select one of the appropriate car shampoos and wash the surface of the car.
2. Results of exposure to reagents or greasy stains.
Such pollution is especially characteristic in winter, when roads are treated with reagents. The body is covered with a greasy dark film of dirt, which is not washed off with shampoos. It is also not always possible to avoid stains of fuel oil or fuel. The question of how to clean the body of such contaminants becomes a matter of five minutes, if you use special degreasers.
You can use the " antisilicone", produced in the form of an aerosol. These cleaners are easy to apply and degrease the surface better than alcohol cleaners because they contain powerful petroleum solvents. They are safe for paintwork, but a greasy film will not have a chance. The use of such a product requires only spraying on a washed body and then wiping.
3. Stains from tar, tar, bitumen, insects or plant pollen, as well as bird droppings arise constantly.
In spring, resin from sticky tree buds is especially annoying. These types of contaminants have such an unpleasant feature as absorption into the surface. Some of these contaminants will be washed off at the sink, but the most persistent stains cannot be removed without the use of special cleaners.
There are quite a few cleaners designed specifically to remove stains of this kind. The product is sprayed on contamination and after a while, specified in the instructions, is removed with a clean cloth. If necessary, the action is repeated until complete cleansing. Now the cleanliness of the car's hood will compete only with its chic interior.
4. Stains embedded in varnish.
If the types of contaminants from point 3 could not be removed by cleaners, then they have already penetrated the surface. Any chemical impact on the car body remains in the form of pollution. Particularly characteristic are the remains of bird droppings, not washed away in time, or the consequences of acid rain. In such situations, it is impossible to remove the consequences without special abrasive products.
Stain remover for persistent chemical dirt, it is usually a paste with abrasive particles. Another option for removing stubborn stains is to use abrasive polishes to remove the damaged layer.
5. Particle microinclusions.
Inclusions on the body, invisible to the eye, but felt as roughness, are removed exclusively with the help of cleansing clay. The composition draws solid particles from the paintwork. Its merits do not end there. Clay can also remove the types of contaminants from point 3 (bird droppings, tar, soot, tar). A more useful and versatile stubborn stain cleaner is hard to imagine.
The arsenal of tools for keeping the car body in perfect order is extremely simple. It is enough to purchase a basic set to forget about stains forever and, if necessary, easily prepare the body for applying any compositions. Now you probably know what means your car dreams of.
