DO NOT BOIL!

In general, it is enough to ask just a few simple questions about the design and maintenance of an automobile engine to find out what the average motorist knows about such an important component of the power unit as the cooling system.

Almost certainly in the answers to the question about engine maintenance there will be words such as engine oil, oil filter, timing belt, oil seals, and at the same time, nine out of ten respondents in their answers will bypass such concepts as coolant, cooling radiator , thermostat, water pump. And here one involuntarily has to admit the fact that even today the engine cooling system (as well as its maintenance) undeservedly continues to remain in the deep shadow of the oil system, the connecting rod-piston and gas distribution mechanism of the car.

Well, indeed, if a high-quality and, as a rule, expensive grade of oil was used when changing the oil in the engine, then this can even become a matter of some pride for the car owner, while talking about antifreeze poured into the cooling system is usually limited to mean remarks about it. color: green, yellow, red...

As a rule, we resort to the help of products intended for the care and / or repair of an automobile cooling system either when time has already been lost and the radiator channels are “tightly” caulked with a layer of scale and other solid deposits, or when there is an urgent need to quickly eliminate the causes of leakage antifreeze. In the latter case, the effective operation of the sealant is also directly dependent on the cleanliness of the cooling system. .

A LITTLE THEORY

In an automobile gasoline engine, when fuel is burned in cylinders, approximately 25% of the received thermal energy is spent on driving the car, the efficiency of diesel engines is slightly higher, on average, about 35%, but in both cases, about a third of the generated thermal energy is absorbed cooling system. For reference: the calorific value of gasoline is such that it is enough to burn just one liter of it to boil 120 liters of water. You can try to imagine the amount of thermal energy that an automobile cooling system has to cope with every day, so do not be surprised that, according to statistics, in the general list of car malfunctions, the number of breakdowns associated with the cooling system occupies an "honorable" fourth place.

Correct and coordinated operation of the cooling system is possible only if all of the following conditions are met: the cooling system must be clean and hermetically closed, the amount of antifreeze in the cooling system must meet the technical requirements, plus the correct operation of the electric fan, fan switch on sensor, thermostat, water pump and heat exchangers (radiators) .

The antifreeze itself must be diluted in the correct proportion with distilled water and contain a sufficient amount of auxiliary, reactive additives, the quality of which, in fact, determines the class of the antifreeze itself.

In the modern automotive world, the fleet of cars with aluminum radiators of the engine cooling system is increasing every year. This trend is due to various, primarily economic, considerations, in particular, and the fact that, thanks to the use of aluminum radiators, it was possible to reduce the total weight of the car, and, accordingly, it was possible to reduce the amount of fuel consumed by the car. In addition, aluminum radiators also look much more preferable from the point of view of ecology than many of their copper counterparts. So, in their production it is not necessary to use lead solder, and the worse thermal conductivity of aluminum compared to copper is compensated by a well-thought-out configuration of the radiator honeycombs.

But aluminum also has its weak point - this is its high degree of susceptibility to the process of electrolytic corrosion. In conditions when the package of anti-corrosion additives contained in antifreeze is consumed to the end and ceases to operate, there is a sharp decrease in the acid-base (PH) index of antifreeze from the permissible 8–8.5 units. up to 7 and below. At this time, the aluminum parts of the cooling system turn into a sacrificial anode and begin to corrode rapidly.

To protect aluminum from corrosion, in addition to phosphates and borates, silicate additives began to be included in the composition of antifreezes, due to which a continuous anti-corrosion silicate layer approximately 1000 Angstrom thick was formed on the walls of the aluminum parts of the cooling system. As a rule, the service life of this type of antifreeze does not exceed one and a half to two years, and at the same time, the microscopic particles of silicate contained in it have abrasive properties, which contributes to premature wear of the rubber seals of the water pump and loss of system tightness.

During the operation of any car, gradually the surface of the parts of its cooling system begins to acquire various kinds of layers, the building material for which are corrosion products of ferrous and non-ferrous metals, oil and fat deposits, as well as decomposition products of antifreeze. As the thickness of the deposit layer increases, the heat-removing characteristics of the cooling system worsen, the process of gradual blockage of the channels of the cooling radiator occurs, in parallel, fuel consumption increases and the likelihood of engine overheating increases.

In addition, the cooling system of any internal combustion engine, and first of all this applies to their diesel modifications (with the exception of engines with "dry liners"), is constantly exposed to the destructive effects of the cavitation process. During engine operation, the cylinder walls constantly communicate high-frequency oscillations to the coolant, due to which the process of formation and collapse of cavitation bubbles begins in the liquid near the cylinder walls, in other words, at this moment, short-term (about 10–6 s) pressure pulses are formed - approximately 10 MPa, while the temperature of the gas inside the bubbles at the moment of their collapse reaches +1000 °C! It is possible to significantly reduce the rate of the cavitation process that is detrimental to the engine with the help of modern high-quality antifreezes developed on the basis of carboxylic acids, which, thanks to their new formula, form a thin film of an organic coating (approximately 60 Angstroms thick) on the surface of the parts of the cooling system, which has the ability to "self-heal" , after one of its sections was destroyed by a cavitation pulse. It is important to note here that antifreezes with a package of carboxylate additives cannot be mixed with antifreezes containing silicates, therefore, when replacing one antifreeze with another, the cooling system must be thoroughly rinsed from the remnants of the previous antifreeze.

As you can see, many factors speak in favor of regular treatment of the cooling system with the help of special chemicals, another question is: are we able to use this or that remedy correctly?

The main difficulty in cleaning the cooling system is that deposits on the inner walls of the cooling system differ in their properties. So, for example, scale and corrosion products of metals are most effectively cleaned with acidic solutions, and oil-fat deposits and decomposition products of antifreezes are cleaned with alkaline solutions. Accordingly, all cooling system cleaners are divided into two groups: cleaners with an acidic and alkaline environment. The decision to use a particular drug should be made based on an analysis of the operating conditions of the car or the reasons that led to the failure of its cooling system. An extremely important condition for flushing the cooling system is to maintain a balance between cleaning properties and the safety of the drugs used. Possessing high efficiency, chemicals of this group should not adversely affect sealing materials, hoses and plastic parts of the cooling system, not to mention parts made of non-ferrous and ferrous metals. A high-quality cooling system cleaner should not only be able to effectively cope with certain types of deposits, but also form a protective chemical film on the surface treated with it, which can slow down the corrosion process, and also provide good conditions for removing destroyed contaminants when draining the flushing solution.

Below we provide an overview of products intended for maintenance/minor repair of the automotive cooling system.

LAVR CLEANER FOR HARDLY POLLUTED COOLING SYSTEMS

CONSUMER ANALYSIS Two-component cleaner designed for the phased cleaning of heavily clogged cooling systems. Composition No. 1 - scale cleaner. An acidic environment softens and destroys scale and corrosion products. Dispersants keep the destroyed contaminants in suspension, preventing them from accumulating and ensuring their maximum removal from the system when draining the detergent composition. It contains buffer components, which, when interacting with the metal, create a phosphate protective film on it, which prevents the aggressive effects of an acidic environment and slows down corrosion processes. Composition No. 2 - neutralizer rinse. The alkaline base dissolves oil and fat contaminants and antifreeze decomposition products, and also neutralizes the effects of an acidic environment, making flushing absolutely safe for engine structural materials. Remember that not only the choice of car is important, but also caring for it. And this is an even more complex and time-consuming process!

LAVR NEUTRAL COOLING SYSTEM FLUSH

CONSUMER ANALYSIS Flushing does not contain acids and alkalis in its composition, it is designed specifically for delicate preventive flushing of cooling systems of modern engines. Special detergent components cope well with scale and various fat and oil deposits. Dispersants keep the destroyed contaminants in suspension, preventing them from accumulating and ensuring their maximum removal from the system when draining the detergent composition. It contains a corrosion inhibitor, with regular use, the active formula of the drug is able to prevent the formation of scale, corrosion products and decomposition of antifreeze. Safe for radiators and stoves with small diameter tubes. Go to rest on Issyk-Kul lakes!

LAVR RADIATOR SEALANT

CONSUMER ANALYSIS Reliably and quickly eliminates antifreeze leaks from radiators, heater stoves, hose connections and other elements of the cooling system. Prevents future leaks. Getting into cracks, it polymerizes in air, forming an elastic plug, which is held due to the roughness of the crack walls. Does not clog radiator tubes, hardens only in places of leaks. Withstands high temperatures, does not evaporate. The composition of the drug is neutral with respect to metals, rubber parts and plastics. Compatible with all types of coolants. If you go to any motorcycle store, you can easily find this drug. However, we recommend visiting only trusted stores, for example, motozap4asti.ru. There is a wide selection of auto chemicals.

LAVR COOLING SYSTEM FLUSH FOR HEAVY CLOUDED SYSTEMS PLUS

CONSUMER ANALYSIS High-quality professional composition for cleaning heavily clogged cooling systems from scale, corrosion products and antifreeze decomposition. Special highly effective detergent components recognize various contaminants, break them down and keep them in suspension, which allows you to remove all deposits as much as possible when draining the washing composition. Restores circulation of antifreeze, eliminates overheating of the engine. The preparation is safe for radiators of all types, it is recommended for cleaning the cooling systems of engines of cars and trucks.

BIZOL KUHLERREINIGER

BIZOL KUCHLER-DICHTER

CONSUMER ANALYSIS The product is a dispersion of a solid substance stabilized in a carrier liquid, used to seal leaks in the radiator and in the car's water cooling system as a whole. It independently detects and seals leaks according to the pressure difference formed in the places of damage, suitable for sealing aluminum radiators. Does not adversely affect the water pump and heating circuit of the car. Compatible with all types of coolant.

PINGO KUHLER REINIGER

CONSUMER ANALYSIS The radiator cleaner is used to clean the radiator channels and the entire cooling system from various contaminants, including lime deposits, which impede the circulation of the coolant and impair the heat transfer process. The composition of the cleaner destroys the structure of dirt, grease, oil and, maintaining the resulting composition in suspension, ensures its removal/draining from the cooling system. Contains corrosion inhibitors, suitable for all types of radiators. sale nissan almera .

CONSUMER ANALYSIS Concentrated product designed to remove rust, scale and decomposition products of the coolant from the cooling system. The WYNN'S COOLING SYSTEM FLUSH complex of detergent additives effectively dissolves oil and grease residues, and the dispersion additive complex, keeping dirt particles in suspension, ensures their good removal/draining from the cooling system. The agent is non-aggressive towards rubber, plastic and metal parts of the cooling system. It can also be used as a prophylactic - before each change of antifreeze - means. This means is used not only for cars. If you have Czech Republic turbochargers, then they also need careful care.

CRC RADIATOR CLEAN

CONSUMER ANALYSIS Automotive cooling system cleaner with good cleaning/detergent properties, containing corrosion inhibitors, surfactants, acid neutralizers and special water softening additives. The active formula of the drug quickly dissolves and emulsifies scale, oily and mud deposits. The cleaner is compatible with all materials that are used for the manufacture of cooling system parts, including aluminum, rubber, plastic, and with all traditional types of coolants.

CRC RADIATOR SEAL

CONSUMER ANALYSIS This preparation is an effective mixture of water-soluble sealants, fibers and corrosion inhibitors. Cellulose fibers form a mesh at the site of damage, due to which particles of resin and polymers deposited on it, reacting with atmospheric air, create a reliable patch. The drug does not contain borates, does not form sediment, prevents the occurrence of corrosion processes and the formation of scale in the automotive cooling system. Compatible with all traditional types of automotive radiators, coolants and additives. Of course, this component will not affect the driving performance of the car much. And to learn how to "speed up" your horse, we recommend that you read auto news. Just do not forget about all types of traffic fines, more and more every year!

G'zox RADIATOR PROTECTOR

CONSUMER ANALYSIS Anti-corrosion additive for automotive cooling systems. Protects iron, aluminum, copper and other metal surfaces from corrosion, rust, scale, which helps prevent overheating of the car engine and increase the efficiency of the cooling system. Contains in its composition components that serve as a lubricant for the pump, which prevent its premature wear and leakage. Compatible with all types of traditional coolants. It is recommended to add the agent at regular intervals, as well as after replacing the coolant.

Lubrication and cooling systems are critical components that directly affect engine performance. In a serviceable car, the circuits through which oil and antifreeze circulate are sealed relative to each other and the liquids should not interact in any way, let alone mix.

If suddenly the presence of oil is detected in the expansion tank, then it is urgent to carry out diagnostics and identify the cause of the incident. As a rule, lubricant can enter the cooling system circuit from two faults:

• Violation of the tightness between the head and the cylinder block due to loosening of the mounting bolts, violation of the integrity of the gasket between them, changes in the plane of the head or microcracks in the cylinder block. As a rule, these malfunctions occur due to engine overheating.
• On diesel engines - due to a leak in the oil cooler.

In any case, if signs of the presence of oil in the coolant are found, competent vehicle diagnostics and repairs are necessary. After the cause of the mixing of liquids is found and eliminated, it is necessary to remove the remaining oil from the cooling system.

The fact is that an aggressive environment with high acidity, which occurs when mixing antifreeze and oil, will rapidly corrode plastic and rubber parts (pipes, gaskets, seals), and also contribute to the formation of corrosion foci and its development on metal parts. Also, the oil can collect in clots and clog the channels in the cooling jacket of the cylinder block.

Simply draining the contaminated coolant and refilling with new coolant will be ineffective, oil residues may remain on the internal surfaces and mix with the antifreeze again. To avoid such problems, the engine cooling system must be flushed. This can be done with special chemicals in a car service or on your own, or by resorting to folk methods.

Cleaning the system with special auto chemicals

There are several effective cleaning products on the Russian market that can be used to flush the cooling system from oil residue:

• ABRO AB-505 - removes limescale, rust and oil deposits. Volume 354 ml, poured into a cooling system filled with water. After heating the engine to operating temperature, it is necessary to let it idle for half an hour. Then, turn off the engine. Then it is necessary to flush the system with the engine running, with the drain valve open, constantly pouring water into the radiator or into the expansion tank, until the drained liquid becomes clear.
• LIQUI MOLY Kuhlerreiniger- an effective product containing enzymes and surfactants, designed to dissolve and remove scale and dirt (including grease) from the cooling system and neutralize acid. The composition does not contain aggressive alkalis and acids, so it can be recommended to use it with each replacement. It is neutral to rubber, metal and plastic. For cleaning, it is necessary to pour liquid into the system (one jar for 10 liters of antifreeze). Then warm up the engine and let it idle for 10 - 30 minutes. The filled liquid can be left in the system for up to three hours, and during the use of the machine. After draining the old antifreeze, the system must be rinsed with running water and you can fill in a new one.
• LAVR - set for two-stage, complete flushing. Specially designed to work with very difficult contaminants and consists of two bottles:
  1. Rust and scale cleaner (first stage) - is poured into an empty system, and then it is filled with clean, preferably distilled water, to a minimum level. Then you need to warm up the engine and leave it to work for half an hour.
  2. Cleaner of oil-emulsion deposits and various residues of the decomposition of the old coolant (second stage). After draining the first solution, the liquid from the second bottle is poured into the system, and the system is again filled with water to the minimum mark. The car is started, warmed up and left to run idle for half an hour. Then the solution is drained, the system is refilled with clean water, the engine warms up and it is left to run for 15 minutes. The last procedure should be repeated until clean water begins to drain from the system and after that it is possible to fill the system with antifreeze.

If there is a slight contamination of the antifreeze with oil products, then other LAVR flushing fluids - classic (Classic), for commercial vehicles (Fortrucks) and synthetic (Syntetic) - which are also designed to remove traces of oil, may be suitable.

In addition to the listed washes, you can pick up analogues from other manufacturers - Bizol, Pingo, CRC. All of them effectively dissolve various contaminants and do not damage the parts and components included in the cooling system.

Flushing the engine cooling system in folk ways

There are exotic and less civilized flushing methods invented by craftsmen when special auto chemicals were not so affordable.

Instead of contaminated antifreeze, serum is poured into the system, slightly above the minimum level in the expansion tank (up to 10 liters can be used up). There is no consensus on how long to keep whey in the engine. Someone travels 200-300 kilometers with serum filled in, then it is drained. Someone advises to fill it up, warm up the engine and leave it to idle for a period of 5 minutes to one hour.

If the drained liquid is very dirty and with oil clots, then the whey washing procedure can be repeated using one of the above methods. After flushing, it is necessary to spill the system with running water, fill in clean water, once again warm up the engine and let it run for about 5 minutes. If the drained liquid is clean, then you can fill in new antifreeze.

Carbonated drinks

Cola, Sprite and Fanta contain phosphoric acid, which can dissolve almost anything. Mixing is carried out in the following proportion - half the volume of water or antifreeze and the rest is a drink. The engine is warmed up and allowed to run for five to six minutes. Then they turn off the engine, and leave to settle for half an hour.

After draining the soda, it is necessary to perform a long flushing of the system with water to wash off the remaining sugar.

Lemon acid

For cleaning, citric acid must be dissolved in water at the rate of 1 kg of powder per 10 liters of liquid. With little pollution, the amount of acid can be reduced to 500 g.

With the solution filled in, at medium speed, the engine should run for 15-20 minutes, and then let it settle for about 45 minutes. After draining, it is also necessary to rinse the system well with running water.

Various household dish detergents are very good at removing grease and oil from any surface. They are also used to flush the cooling system. Half a bottle of any product is added to the system; in case of severe pollution, you can also fill in a full half-liter bottle.

The liquid must be dissolved in water and poured into the cooling system. Warm up the car and let it run for 15 minutes. If the drained liquid contains a large amount of oil, you can repeat the procedure several times. Alternatively, with such a flooded solution, you can drive a car for a couple of days or for a run of about 100 km.

When clean water begins to drain from the system (without visible oil impurities), it is necessary to flush the system with running water and you can fill in fresh antifreeze. Household detergents have increased foaming, therefore, when warming up the machine with a solution filled in, it is necessary to control the expansion tank and the radiator filler neck.

Which cleaning method to choose

If you choose how to flush the cooling system from the remaining oil, then it will be more efficient, more profitable and safer to use flushing fluids. They are specially designed for cleaning and do not contain substances aggressive to engine parts and cooling systems. Accordingly, they cannot harm the details. At a cost, buying a flush often comes out cheaper than folk remedies. The listed special drugs are in the price range from 200 to 600 rubles.

Cleaning folk remedies does not guarantee a good result. On the Internet, on forums, you can find a lot of discussions about how folk methods helped someone, but not someone. Their use can not only not help, but also harm. For example, phosphoric acid found in carbonated drinks can corrode fittings and seals.

Conclusion

When flushing the engine, it is necessary to fill the cooling system, as well as drain liquids, when the engine is cold, in order to exclude the possibility of engine damage from temperature changes and burns if it comes into contact with the skin.

Before we proceed to a direct description of certain means, I would like to remind you how important it is to regularly flush the car's cooling system. The fact is that, depending on the coolant used, rust, oil deposits, antifreeze decomposition products, and scale accumulate on the walls of the tubes that make up the radiator. All this leads to difficulty in the circulation of the coolant and a decrease in heat transfer. And this always has a bad effect on the characteristics of the engine and increases the wear of its individual parts with the risk of premature failure.

It is worth noting that flushing the system can be both internal and external (external cleaning means flushing the radiator from the outside from particles of dirt, dust, and insects present on its surface). It is recommended to do an internal flush of the cooling system at least once a year. It is best to do this in the spring, when there are no more frosts, and a hot summer is ahead.

On some cars, there is a light on the dashboard with a picture of a radiator, the glow of which may indicate not only a decrease in the level of antifreeze, but also that it is time to change it. This can also serve as a signal that it's time to clean the cooling system. There are also a number of indirect signs of the need for such cleaning:

Radiator icon indicating a problem with the cooling system

• frequent engine overheating;
• problems with the pump;
• slow response to rheostat signals (inertia);
• high temperature readings from the corresponding sensor;
• problems in the operation of the “stove”;
• The fan always runs at high speed.

If the engine is very hot, then it's time to select a tool in order to flush the cooling system, and choose the time and opportunity for this.

HOW TO FLUSH THE ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM

The process of flushing the cooling system is quite simple, and it consists of the following steps: The car engine warms up a little, then turns off and you need to wait a while until it cools down a little; Next, the plug is unscrewed, the old coolant is drained from the motor. Attention: Do not drain the coolant on a hot engine - this is fraught with burns and spray antifreeze under pressure; After that, you need to fill in the agent for cleaning the cooling system. Some of them need to be diluted with distilled water. If you are using citric acid or Coca-Cola for flushing, specific recommendations for using these engine flushes will be given below.

In the case when specialized products are used, it is necessary to follow the instructions on the package; Then, for some time, it is necessary to let the engine work with the liquid filled in to clean the cooling system. The time recommendation depends on the type of fluid being used; After washing, the liquid is drained and clean water is poured into the cooling system to remove detergent residues. The procedure for draining and filling water may need to be repeated several times; The last step is to fill the cooling system with new coolant. Attention: it is better to choose antifreeze the same one that was filled in the cooling system before flushing. Thorough flushing of the cooling system is necessary to remove the formed deposits, dirt, corrosive elements and harmful impurities that can lead to a violation of the stability of the system. We strongly recommend that after flushing the cooling system, fill in new antifreeze, because in the old fluid, even if the car has not driven so many kilometers, there are particles of contaminants.

How to flush the engine cooling system at home?

You can flush the engine cooling system with the following liquids:

distilled water;
Acidified water;
Special means for flushing the engine cooling system.
The choice of cleaning agent depends on the condition of the vehicle.

You need to flush the engine cooling system either in the summer on the street or in the winter in a warm box. First, drain the old antifreeze from the system - this process is described in great detail in the instructions for replacing the coolant. In short, the algorithm of actions is as follows:

If the motor is hot, it must be allowed to cool down.
Park the machine on a level surface.
To protect your hands from hot elements of the engine and cooling system, it is better to wear gloves.
Open and lock the hood.
Under the radiator you need to put a container to collect the old coolant.
After removing the drain plugs, drain the antifreeze in turn from the engine and radiator.
By the type of drained liquid, conclusions can be drawn about the state of the cooling system as a whole. Different particles (scale, rust, etc.) may be present in the drained antifreeze.

Chemistry for flushing the engine cooling system

LAVR agent for cleaning the cooling system The main thing when flushing the cooling system is to observe safety measures and clear instructions. If we compare "folk" remedies with special factory formulations, then, of course, the latter are better. What cooling system flushes are on the market? Various. From very penny to expensive, from unknown to brands with a name. In principle, there are no frankly terrible compounds among them, unless it is a liquid from clandestine production. To make it clear what to take, we will designate some of the best flushes of the engine cooling system. Flushing the cooling system with Liqui Moly, like other brand products, has proven itself well. Usually sold as a concentrate, which must be diluted with water (three hundred grams per three liters) or added to old antifreeze.

Drive through the system for ten to thirty minutes, then drain, rinse with distilled water. From a whole class of seven-minute flushes, the Hi Gear cooling system flush can be distinguished. It gently cleans and even softens the rubber parts of the system. It is poured for seven minutes, diluted with water, the dosage of which depends on the volume that a particular cooling system can hold (there are seven-liter and sixteen-liter engine cooling systems). Flushing the cooling system with Lavr means different compositions: for different levels of pollution, with different additives, different duration of action, means for flushing the radiator of the engine cooling system. Each tool is accompanied by instructions that describe in detail how to proceed.

Folk remedies for flushing the cooling system

As we indicated above, there are two types of flushing agents - folk and special. Let's start with the first, as cheaper and more proven.

Lemon acid

Using citric acid to clean the cooling system

The most common citric acid, diluted in water, is able to clean the radiator tubes from rust and dirt. It is especially effective if ordinary water is used as a coolant, since acidic formulations are effective against rust, and alkaline formulations are effective against scale. However, remember that a solution of citric acid is not able to remove significant contaminants.

The composition of the solution is as follows - dissolve 20-40 grams of the substance in 1 liter of water, and if the pollution is strong, then the amount of acid per liter can be increased to 80-100 grams (a larger volume is created in a similar proportion). It is considered ideal when adding acid to distilled water pH level is around 3.

The cleaning procedure itself is simple. It is necessary to drain all the old fluid and fill in the new solution. Next, you need to warm up the engine to operating temperature and leave it for a few hours (and preferably at night). Next, drain the solution from the system and look at its condition. If it is very dirty, then the procedure must be repeated 1-2 more times until the liquid is clean enough. After that, be sure to flush the system with water. Next, fill in the agent that you plan to use as a coolant.

Acetic acid

Using acetic acid to clean the cooling system

The effect of this solution is similar to that described above. A solution of acetic acid is great for flushing rust off the cooling system. The proportions of the solution are as follows - half a liter of vinegar per bucket of water (10 liters). The cleaning procedure is similar - we drain the old fluid, fill in a new one and warm up the car to operating temperatures. Next, you need to leave the car with the engine running for 30-40 minutes so that chemical cleaning takes place in the radiator. Next, you need to drain the cleaning fluid and look at its condition. Repeat the procedure until the liquid is clear. Next, you need to flush the system with boiled or distilled water, and then fill in the coolant that you plan to use on an ongoing basis.

Fanta

Using Fanta to clean the cooling system

Similar to the previous point. However, there is an important difference here. The fact is that, unlike Coca-Cola, where phosphoric acid is used, Fanta uses lemon acid, which has a lesser cleaning effect. Therefore, some car owners pour it instead of antifreeze to clean the cooling system.

As for the time during which you need to drive like this, it all depends on the degree of contamination of the system. In particular, if it is not very dirty, and cleaning is done more for prevention, then it is enough to let the engine run for 30-40 minutes at idle. If you want to wash the old dirt well, then you can ride like this for 1-2 days, then pour distillate into the system, ride some more, drain it and look at its condition. If the distillate is dirty, repeat the procedure until the system is clear. At the end, do not forget to thoroughly rinse it with water and fill it with new antifreeze.

Please note that if there are small holes or cracks in the stove pipeline, but the dirt “tightened” them, then when flushing, these holes may open and a leak will form. Therefore, after flushing, make an audit of the pipelines of the system.

Lactic acid or whey

An excellent option for flushing the cooling system of a car engine is lactic acid. However, a significant problem lies in the fact that it is very difficult to get lactic acid today. But if you manage to get this substance, then you can pour it into the radiator in its pure form and ride it for a while (or let the car stand with the engine running).

A more affordable alternative to lactic acid is whey. It has similar properties for cleaning the radiator and other elements of the cooling system. The algorithm for using serum is as follows:

Use of whey

• prepare about 10 liters of whey in advance (preferably homemade, not from the store);
• strain the entire purchased volume 2-3 times through cheesecloth in order to filter out large pieces of fat;
• first, drain the coolant from the radiator, and pour whey in its place;
• drive 50-60 kilometers with it;
• it is necessary to drain the serum in a hot state so that the dirt does not have time to stick to the walls of the tubes again ( be careful!);
• let the engine cool down;
• pour pre-boiled water into the radiator;
• start the engine, let it warm up (about 15-20 minutes); drain the water;
• let the engine cool down;
• fill in the antifreeze that you plan to use on an ongoing basis;
• bleed air from the system, if necessary add more coolant.

Please note that the serum has its cleansing properties for 1-2 hours. Therefore, the mentioned 50-60 km must be covered during this time. It does not make sense to drive longer, as the serum mixes with the dirt in the system.

Caustic soda

This substance is popularly called differently - sodium hydroxide, "caustic alkali", "caustic soda", "caustic" and so on.

The substance can only be used to clean copper radiators (including stove radiators). Baking soda should not be used on aluminum surfaces.

In accordance with the official instructions of the manufacturer of copper radiators, it is necessary to act according to the following algorithm:

Caustic soda

• remove the radiator from the car;
• rinse its insides with plain water and blow it with compressed air (not exceeding a pressure of 1 kgf / cm2) until clean water flows out of the radiator;
• prepare about 1 liter of 10% caustic soda solution;
• heat the composition to at least + 90 ° С;
• pour the prepared composition into the radiator;
• let it brew for 30 minutes;
• drain the solution;
• for 40 minutes, rinse the inside of the radiator with hot water and blow it with hot air alternately (at the same time, the pressure should not exceed 1 kgf / cm2) in the direction opposite to the direction of movement of the pump.

Remember that caustic soda causes burns and corrodes living tissue. Therefore, it is necessary to work outdoors with gloves and a respirator.

As a result of a chemical reaction, white foam may appear from the radiator pipes. If this happens - do not be alarmed, this is normal. The tightness of the cooling system after cleaning must be carried out on a cold engine, since hot water evaporates quickly, and it will be problematic to find the intended leak.

Flushing the engine cooling system with distilled water

We want to note right away that this is the most inexpensive method of flushing the engine cooling system, but at the same time it is also the least effective. In terms of time and effort, washing with distilled water is also not the first place. However, in some cases, this method will be fully justified.

Naturally, plain tap water cannot be used to flush the engine cooling system. Only distilled water should be used or, at worst, boiled for at least 20 minutes (it contains a minimum of salts).

Flushing the cooling system is carried out elementarily:

Pour distilled water into the radiator.
Start the car and let it idle for about 15-20 minutes.
Stop the engine and drain the water from the cooling system.
This procedure must be repeated several times until the water is clear. This method is only suitable if the car is relatively new, and no obvious contamination is visible in the drained antifreeze.

With constant use of the car, the cooling system becomes clogged over time. Plaque forms on the conductive tubes, deposits of various substances appear and the engine ceases to fully cool. This happens because this very plaque has limited thermal conductivity and cooling is simply physically impossible through its layer. Plaque forms for various reasons, but in general terms it can be said that this is the same scale that appears in the kettle after boiling. In addition to low thermal conductivity, another negative effect is the narrowing of the tube diameters. Over time, the coolant itself changes its chemical properties, which gives one more minus in the form of additional deposits. The engine stops cooling normally even when the radiator is clogged with dust and debris. Together, all this leads to a decrease in the service life of the unit, and, in the end, to “boiling”, which is already fraught with a major overhaul.

There are a number of signs by which it becomes clear that it is time to flush the system:

• the pump does not work well;
• coolant temperature sensor shows unusual values;
• the engine overheats;
• cold or slightly warm air comes out of the stove vents.

It is recommended to flush the system once a year, and if the car is new, it can be done less often, but in general, it is ideal with every coolant change. This is done either in a specialized service, or independently. There is nothing complicated in this procedure.

Washing methods

The system is flushed in various ways. For this, either water (highly preferably distilled), a self-prepared solution, or special chemical liquids sold in any car shop are used. It is recommended to put the car on the site, it is allowed to install the front part a little higher than the rear. A container is placed under the bottom of the car into which the coolant will drain. To begin with, the radiator cap is unscrewed and everything that is poured in there is poured out. Next, you need to unscrew the cap of the expansion tank and the plug located on the engine itself. This can only be done when the car is completely cool, otherwise burns are possible. Immediately after this, it is possible and even necessary to clean the outer part of the radiator from dust and dirt. If the radiator is heavily contaminated, it can be flushed with Karcher or purged with a compressor, if any.

Flushing the cooling system with water is not the best way. It can only be used if the car is new and the used antifreeze is not very dirty. It is worth using distilled water, since ordinary water contains salts and other contaminants, which in the end can only make things worse. Well, in the very, very extreme case, you can try to rinse with boiled water. The procedure looks like this: water is poured into the radiator, then the car starts and runs until the fan turns on. The engine is turned off, the machine cools down, the water is drained, then the procedure is repeated until the drained liquid becomes completely transparent. It will not hurt to blow the system with a compressor before filling the antifreeze, if possible. The method has disadvantages: the formation of a new scale is possible, besides, ordinary water simply cannot dissolve the pollution.

Acidified water is next in terms of washing quality. It is reasonable to use it on Soviet and Russian cars with high mileage, as it is a cheap and affordable way to flush. At the same time, citric acid or vinegar is used. It is also possible to use caustic soda or lactic acid.

It is best to use, of course, citric acid, because of its availability. The calculation is something like this: one hundred to two hundred grams of acid is added per liter of water. It is not worth putting more, as plastic parts may be damaged if the consumption is too concentrated.

It is washed in the following order: the prepared solution is poured into the system, the engine starts and runs until the fan turns on (in the same way as when washing with plain water). Then the car is left for several hours, the water is drained and a new solution is poured. Everything, as always, is washed until clean water comes out. After the end of the procedure, you can fill in distilled water, and, without warming up the engine, drain it. This will flush out any remaining acids.

Some car enthusiasts flush debris out of the cooling system of regular Coca-Cola. Indeed, it perfectly removes scale due to the huge content of phosphoric acid in it. But the sugar content in it is also huge, so in this way you can simply completely clog the system. In addition, the drink is carbonated, respectively, there may be consequences for the engine due to expanding gases.

In a word, this method is suitable only for those who do not feel sorry for their car at all. It will work, but with unpredictable consequences. Flushing with liquids for washing toilets can be attributed to the same ambiguous method. A prerequisite after using such aggressive products is a final rinse with water.

The best way is, of course, the use of special tools designed specifically for this procedure. They are divided into several classes - alkaline, acidic, two-component or neutral. This separation occurred because different types of pollution are washed in different ways. For example, acid will perfectly dissolve scale and deposits, and alkali will dissolve antifreeze residues. But these two connections cannot be interconnected, so only one is used. Two-component liquids work in turn: first one pours, then the second. Such a solution is quite effective, although it is more expensive. The process is similar to the previous methods - liquid is poured, the car starts, warms up, the system “drives” it in a large circle. The only difference is that the label will most often indicate the engine operation time required for complete cleaning. Then the “chemistry” merges and, depending on the resulting effect, the procedure is either repeated or antifreeze is immediately poured. All kinds of alkalis and oxidizing agents are never included in neutral solutions, but due to their special chemical composition, they cope with their functions quite well.

There is another class of special fluids based on the catalytic process. Such funds can simply be added to antifreeze for prevention purposes. It is very convenient to flush such a liquid: just pour it into the expansion tank and continue driving as usual. In this case, all substances will dissolve completely and you can be sure that the radiator tubes will not clog with motes and residues. In fact, this method is the simplest, and besides, it does not cause any harm to the engine.

A quick and quite effective method in some cases is forced flushing. At the same time, pressurized water is supplied to the system and washed until the water that comes from the engine plug becomes transparent. This method has all the same disadvantages as washing with hot water, however, if you need to rinse quickly, this is not the worst solution.

After all procedures, regardless of the option chosen, an air lock may appear. This is easily solved - part of the car is jacked up, or simply driven onto a small hillock. If it doesn’t help, it will be enough to disconnect the throttle pipe and the plug will immediately dissolve.

Myths about flushing the cooling system

Often on specialized forums, in conversations and even when consulting in a store, you can hear a number of myths:

• liquid is filled when the engine is turned on. This must not be done, the unit may be damaged;
• never wash at all. Also not true, this will become clearly visible after you look at the drained dirty liquid;
• special liquids are just a marketing ploy and a way to make money. No, rather it refers to washing with ordinary water;
• pressure flushing can be done with the engine running. A great way to "ditch" the car.

Results

There is only one conclusion from all of the above - self-flushing of the engine is absolutely no difficulty and is done without the presence of any special tools. The implementation of this task is available even to a beginner, while you should not listen to the sometimes very harmful advice of all kinds of garage "professionals". And one of the obvious advantages of this procedure is the normal operation of the cooling system and an increase in engine life, so flushing is quite justified in terms of time and labor costs to “divorce” you for money.

An important component of the internal combustion engine assembly is the cooling system, which is filled with either antifreeze, or antifreeze, or water (mostly domestic truck workers fill up with water in the North, so they do not turn off the engines during the entire cold period of winter).

Flushing the engine cooling system.

Antifreezes, in general, have a service life of 5 years or until the engine has traveled 250 thousand km. Antifreeze has a service life of 2-3 years. By the way, you can see what happens if you mix . Depending on the operation of the car and the quality of the coolant, if you do not change the liquid or if you dilute the coolants, then the radiator channels and the cooling jacket become clogged. Therefore, to increase the overhaul life of the motor, it is required to periodically flush the engine cooling system. You can wash both in car services and at home in your own garage.

Many drivers clean the cooling system with their own hands. Someone uses citric acid, someone uses Coca-Cola, someone uses diesel fuel, someone uses special equipment (eg Laurel), someone else does something else.

Who wants to have no problems with the engine, he must regularly flush the cooling system with a certain frequency. During the operation of the engine, deposits, rust, oil deposits, sediments and scale accumulate on the walls of the radiator and pipes. There will be much more clogging substances if the engine was running at an increased mode, the temperature almost reached the red mark.

If the channels of the radiator and pipes are clogged, then, accordingly, the circulation has deteriorated. And poor engine circulation will create additional problems: the engine will overheat (which can become a gasket replacement), cool air will blow from the stove, engine parts will be subject to increased wear.

It is advisable to flush the car's cooling system once a year. Warm weather is needed to change the coolant.

There is a cooling radiator icon on the instrument panel, which, if lit, indicates either a low level of antifreeze or antifreeze, or that the radiator needs to be cleaned or replaced. This icon is available in some brands of cars.

The list of cars, we considered in another article. It lists the makes and models of machines and the required coolant volumes for them.

Signs that it's time to clean the cooling system.

If one of the following signs is found, then it is imperative to clean the internal combustion engine cooling system:

1. The temperature of the engine rises sharply, and this happens often.
2. At the operating temperature of the motor, cold air is blowing from the stove.
3. The pump (pump) is not working well.
4. The fan turns on early and runs at high speeds.

When such signs and causes appear, it is necessary to study the flushing scheme, how to flush, how to flush, how to properly fill in new coolant.

Flushing the engine cooling system with your own hands.

The means used to flush the engine cooling system use both chemical special means and folk ones. Folk remedies for cleaning the system are inexpensive and proven many times over. Acid-containing products can remove rust and such deposits, and alkaline products can remove scale.

Consider rinsing with citric acid.

Since citric acid (formula C6H8O7) is able to corrode rust and deposits of oxidized metals, it is effective to use it if water was used as a coolant in the engine cooling system.

How to dilute citric acid to flush radiators:

1. We take one liter of clean water.
2. Add 20-40 grams of citric acid powder (1-2 tablespoons) to this water - this is for easy cleaning or prevention. If the system has not been washed for a long time, it is heavily polluted, then 80-100 grams of citric acid (8-10 tablespoons) should be added to 1 liter of water. For the water to become strongly acidic rather than alkaline, i.e. the pH level to be less than 7. If you add this amount of citric acid to distilled water, then the pH level will be around 3.
3. Make the volume of the finished liquid, how much will fit into the empty cooling system. Depending on the engine. How many liters of antifreeze, water or antifreeze were poured, in the same volume it is necessary to prepare a cleaning fluid. That is, to prepare 10 liters of lemon aggressive liquid, you need 10 liters of distilled water and 0.8-1 kg of lemon powder.

Follow flushing of the cooling system:

1. Completely drain the coolant from the system.
2. Pour the prepared solution.
3. Start the engine, warm up to operating temperature and leave for several hours.
4. Drain the liquid from the cooling system.
5. If the liquid is very cloudy and dirty, then rinse again until the liquid becomes clear.
6. After the drained washing folk liquid turned out to be clean, it is imperative to flush the system with ordinary clean water (preferably distilled or boiled).

The next common folk remedy for flushing the engine cooling system is acetic acid.

A solution of acetic acid effectively removes rust. To prepare the wash solution you will need:

• 10 liters of pure water;
• 0.5 liters of vinegar.

The replacement procedure is the same as using citric acid:

• drain;
• pour;
• start the motor;
• let the engine run for about 1 hour;
• drain;
• repeat until the liquid is clear;
• rinse with distilled or boiled water;
• fill in new antifreeze or antifreeze.

Another folk remedy as a flushing fluid for all channels of cooling systems is Fanta carbonated drink (Fanta).

Fanta contains citric acid. Therefore, it is also used for cleaning by some home craftsmen. They drain the old liquid, fill the entire system with this fanta, then let the engine run for about an hour at idle or, if it is very dirty, they operate a car with a flooded fanta for a couple of days. After that, distilled water is drained and poured, and also operated for two days. Then drain, and look at the state of the liquid. If necessary, perform the procedure until the drained liquid becomes relatively clean.

After flushing, it is necessary to check all the pipes of the cooling system and the radiator. It happens that rust blocked the holes and the system remained airtight. But after flushing, the radiator or tubes may leak.

Flushing the cooling system with lactic acid or whey.

Less common is the use of whey or lactic acid as an engine cooling flush.

If lactic acid is available, the entire system is filled with it. Start the engine and let it idle or under load for a while.

But, not everyone has the opportunity to use lactic acid for washing. Therefore, serum is used instead.

Serum cooling system flushing sequence:

1. Find or prepare 10 liters of whey.
2. Strain several times so that there are no pieces of fat.
3. Drain the old coolant.
4. Pour in the serum.
5. Start the engine and hit the road. Drive 50 kilometers, but drive no more than 2 hours. Because the serum loses its main good properties after 2 hours.
6. Wear thick rubber gloves to avoid burns.
7. Drain hot whey. If it cools down, then deposits form again on the walls of the channels, the jackets of the cooling system.
8. After draining, let the motor cool down.
9. Pour pre-boiled water into the system.
10. Start motor.
11. Let it work for 20 minutes.
12. Drain the water.
13. Fill with fresh antifreeze G11, G12, G12+ or G13. It is better to fill in from G12 and above.
14. Expel the air. This also requires certain knowledge -.
15. Check level, top up if necessary.

The next folk remedy for cleaning the internal combustion engine cooling system is caustic soda.

Caustic soda, it is also "caustic alkali", it is also sodium hydroxide, it is also caustic - an effective remedy, but only for attention! - copper radiators. Soda compositions are forbidden to be poured into aluminum radiators and any other aluminum parts. To use this method and follow the instructions, you will have to remove the radiator.

The manufacturer of copper radiators has developed these instructions for flushing with caustic soda:

1. Remove the main radiator.
2. Rinse channels with water.
3. Blow out with air under pressure not higher than 1 kgf/cm2 (1 atmosphere).
4. Wear thick rubber gloves and a respirator, as such soda corrodes the skin and harms the lungs.
5. Prepare 1 liter of solution from 10% caustic soda.
6. Heat the solution to +90 degrees.
7. Pour soda solution into the radiator.
8. Wait half an hour.
9. Drain liquid.
10. Rinse with hot water and blow with hot air alternately. Do this many times, for about an hour. Carry out the process in the direction of the reverse movement.
11. Check the radiator for leaks with cold water.

What means is undesirable to flush the internal combustion engine cooling system.

Coca Cola

Many people know that Coca-Cola can remove scale and clean radiators. There are many videos on the Internet on using Coca-Cola to clean kettles and other objects that form deposits.

Coca-Cola can be used to flush radiators and all channels of the engine cooling system. Coca-Cola contains phosphoric acid, thanks to which rust, greasy deposits of oil and additives are perfectly removed. But there is one but. The fact is that in addition to orthophosphoric acid, Coca-Cola contains sugar and a lot of carbon dioxide.

If you have chosen the method of flushing the cooling system with Coca-Cola, then:

1. You have to get the carbon dioxide out of it.
2. Drain the old fluid.
3. Pour cola.
4. Wait no more than 10 minutes, as it corrodes plastic and rubber products and the surfaces of aluminum parts.
5. Drain the cola.
6. Rinse several times with clean water so that no sugar remains in the system. The remaining droplets with sugar when pouring antifreeze with sweat can react and the properties of the antifreeze will change.

Fairy (Fairy)

Some may use this chemical agent to flush the internal combustion engine cooling system, but it’s not worth it. It perfectly removes grease, but does not dissolve rust and other deposits. But with the help of fairies, you can perfectly rinse the radiator from the outside. During the summer, a lot of flies and other insects stick to the front of the radiator.

Calgon (Calgon)

Means such as Calgon and others (Mr Muscle, Tiret) like them are used to protect against scale formation. He is unlikely to be able to remove rust and deposits. It is better to add it to the washing machine so that the scale does not settle on the drum.

White

Powerful tool for removing dirt, germs, mold with a pungent persistent odor. Whiteness contains sodium hydrochloride, which can corrode the surfaces of aluminum parts. When heated, the whiteness will quickly corrode aluminum tubes. Therefore, do not use and test on your own experience.

Mole

Mole cleaner can only be used in copper main radiators and stove radiators, because it contains caustic soda. It will ruin aluminum surfaces. It also corrodes rubber seals, oil seals.

After flushing, you must also be able to fill in new coolant, otherwise an air lock may form. Then you have to expel this air plug from the system.

Combined method of citric acid, vinegar and soda

There are those who mix different substances in the hope of getting a super coolant flush.

Make the following composition of the mixture:

• 50% soda;
• 25% citric acid;
• 25% vinegar.

Such homemade chemical mixtures can and will clean the channels in the system, but at the same time, they will destroy the rubber seals.

Special fluids for flushing the cooling system

Those who are not going to test drinks, descalers, and folk remedies as a cleaner and do not trust them, they choose auto chemical products.

Manufacturers of auto chemicals are constantly developing new products, so the range of choice is great.

Classification of liquids by chemical composition:

1. Neutral. Neutral are those with a pH value of 7. You can get a ph-meter and check what kind of water we drink (it is good to drink alkaline water), and so on. Neutral liquids do not have various alkaline and acid impurities. Such fluids alone cannot clean the channels of the cooling system well.
2. Acid. These liquids have a pH value<7. Хорошо применяются для очищения органических веществ.
3. Alkaline. Alkalines have a pH > 7. Effectively dissolve organic contaminants.
4. Two-component. These liquids contain both acidic and alkaline elements. Effectively dissolve and remove scale, rust, various deposits resulting from the decomposition of antifreeze or antifreeze.

It is advisable to use only one liquid by chemical composition. Not so, first alkaline, then acidic, or vice versa.

Among the TOP auto chemical products for flushing the engine cooling system, the following are distinguished:

1. Lavr Radiator Flush Classic(Laurus Radiator Flush Classic) is a chemical product from Russian manufacturers. Effectively used for complete cleaning of the internal combustion engine cooling system. The cost of a half-liter container of Lavra is about 300 rubles.

How to use LAVR:

1. Drain coolant.
2. Pour two-component LAVR. A volume of 430 ml is sufficient.
3. We fill the system with water after Lavra.
4. We start the engine and let it idle for 30 minutes.
5. Shut off and drain fluid.
6. Fill with distilled water for flushing.
7. Start the engine and let it idle for 15 minutes.
8. Drain this fluid and fill in new antifreeze or antifreeze.

After such cleaning, deposits of scale, rust and dirt will be removed from the system. The pump and antifreeze will last longer.

2. LIQUI MOLY Kuhler-Reiniger(Likui Moli Kahler-Reiniger) is a product from a German manufacturer of automotive chemicals. The cost is around 500 rubles for a 300 ml can. The composition does not contain aggressive substances. If you need to flush the radiator channels and the system as a whole from rust and oil deposits, then Liqui is perfect for this. Does not destroy rubber and plastic products.

To prepare a flushing fluid for a car's cooling system, one 300 ml bottle is enough.

How to use LIQUI MOLY:

1. Drain some of the old fluid from the system.
2. Pour the entire contents of the can directly into the radiator.
3. Start the engine and let it idle for 30 minutes, or you can also ride.
4. Drain liquid. Usually a dirty brown liquid is poured out.
5. Rinse with distilled or boiled water.
6. Pour in new antifreeze or antifreeze.

3. Hi-Gear Radiator Flush-7 minute- A product from American manufacturers. The price of a vessel with a volume of 325 ml is about 6 dollars. It is used in different countries to clean the cooling system of cars and trucks. The working time declared by the manufacturer is 7 minutes. There is also a 5-minute action.
After using High Gear Radiator Flush 7, the efficiency of the radiator increases by 1.5 times, the circulation of liquid in the system is restored, and it does not corrode the pump seal and other rubber-plastic products.

Conclusion

As you can see, it is possible to effectively flush the engine cooling system with your own hands, but I recommend using special auto chemical goods after reading the instructions. Folk methods can also be effective, but who knows, it may not work for your engine.