How to assemble a motor from. Homemade engine: purpose, device and principle of operation

17.07.2019

How to assemble an engine?

Nowadays, a car is not a luxury, but a means of transportation familiar to everyone. As a result, a growing number of motorists who prefer to independently repair their vehicle. This is due to the rather high prices for service stations.

Required Tools

Consider the engine assembly process using the example of a VAZ 2106 car. To assemble the engine, you will need the following tools:

First of all, you will need a set of keys in the following sizes: 12-14, 17, 19, 21, 22, 36.
If there is no set of keys, use a gas key.
Piston pin press tool.
Ordinary torque wrench and sockets sizes 12 and 13. If these are not available, a cylinder head bolt wrench can be used.
Hammer.
Screwdriver.
Mounting blade.

It is this minimum set of tools that is needed to work with the engine of a VAZ 2106 car. Now let's consider the process of assembling the engine for this car.

Engine Assembly

Imagine that you have a disassembled engine of a VAZ 2106 car. It doesn’t matter if you assemble it after repair, diagnostics, or assemble new engine from spare parts, the sequence of actions will be the same. Try to allocate a few hours of free time for assembling the engine and do not forget to prepare everything necessary tools listed above.

First of all, you need to assemble the engine pistons. On the device for pressing the piston pin put yourself piston pin with spacer ring, put on the guide sleeve and secure it.
Preheat the oven to 240 degrees (even a simple, homemade one will do) and place the connecting rod in it so that when heated, its head expands. After heating, quickly remove it and clamp it in a vise, put on the piston and push the piston pin into the holes. When the connecting rod is cool, lubricate it with engine oil.
Install piston rings.
In the same way, assemble the remaining pistons and install piston rings on them.
In special beds of the block of cylinders establish loose leaves of radical bearings. The mounting antennae of the liners must be aligned with the special grooves of the bed. Lubricate them after installation.
The crankshaft is installed in the cylinder block.
Next, special lower bushings must be installed in the root bearing caps.
Lubricate the crankshaft journals and the bearing shells in the crankshaft bearing caps.
After that, install the bearing caps and lubricate their thrust half rings with oil.
Install the rear and front half rings back support crankshaft.
Install the rear main bearing cap and cap bolts, then secure them with a torque wrench.
Be sure to check the axial clearance of the crankshaft with a mounting blade. If the gap is more than 0.35 millimeters, it is necessary to replace the thrust half rings with thicker ones.
Check the correct assembly of the crankshaft by turning it several times by hand. A properly assembled crankshaft should rotate freely, without delay and smoothly.
Paste connecting rod bolts and the connecting rod bearings by aligning the tabs of the bearing with the notch of the connecting rod.
Lubricate the cylinder mirrors, as well as the pistons, rings and connecting rod bearings.
By using special device for compression piston rings install the pistons in the cylinders. Cylinder number and connecting rod number must match.
Install the connecting rod bearings into the connecting rod caps. Then lubricate the connecting rod bearings and the connecting rod journals of the crankshaft.
Install the connecting rod cover, after connecting the marks on the connecting rod and the cover. Install the other connecting rod caps in the same way. Tighten the nuts with a torque wrench.
Install holder rear oil seal crankshaft. Center it and secure with bolts. Avoid twists.
Install and secure the flywheel.
Install the remaining components: the sprocket on the crankshaft, the ignition distributor drive gear, the drive shaft oil pump and the oil pump itself oil sump, cylinder head. Tighten all components and parts with bolts.
Install camshaft together with the bearing block on the cylinder head. Fasten with screws.
Install the chain tension shoe, put on the chain. Install the stop bolt.
Put the chain on the oil pump drive shaft sprocket. Also install the chain on the sprocket camshaft.
Install the chain tensioner.
Install the camshaft timing chain cover. Center it and fix it with special bolts. Install and secure the remaining elements, assemblies and parts.

As you can see, the engine assembly process requires certain knowledge and following the instructions. By the way, manuals for engine repair, its disassembly and assembly are contained in the instructions for any car. We also recommend that you read the article

To begin with, we will prepare everything you need: new gaskets or sealant for the internal combustion engine, a torque wrench, a set of wrenches different sizes, while you need open-end, box and socket wrenches with interchangeable heads, long and short knobs. Consider the fact that you will have to spend a lot or a lot of time on work (depending on the model and condition of the motor, it takes from several hours to several days to parse).

To disassemble the engine, it must first be removed. Before that, drain the oil and coolant and remove all attachments. Tip: bikes and knots from each knot are best put separately, even better - in signed boxes.

The analysis of the internal combustion engine usually occurs in the following order:

1. Disconnect the gearbox (just unscrew the bolts).

2. Disconnect the clutch (again, unscrew the bolts that secure the casing and remove the entire assembly).

3. Remove the crankshaft pulley. We screw the bolt into the mounting hole, put a flat screwdriver between the teeth of the flywheel, rest it on the bolt. Then we unscrew the nut (or ratchet) with a gas wrench, pry the pulley with something (for example, a balloon wrench) and remove it.

4. Remove the flywheel (just unscrew the bolts); under it is a plate that is held by bolts - we remove it as well.

5. Remove the timing belt or chain from the camshaft. In some machines, there are still obstacles on the way to this element. Sometimes in the form of a front engine cover (fastened with stud nuts), sometimes in the form of a cylinder head cover (fastened with nuts or bolts).

To remove the chain, we pull out the tensioner from it, then unscrew the camshaft gear and then remove the belt (chain) itself.

Next in line is the gear crankshaft. If you have a special puller, then this will speed up the work, because. this gear is attached with a key. If during the work you slightly damage the edges of the key, you can then correct them with a file. IN last turn remove the chain tensioner.

6. We dismantle the camshaft (we unscrew the nuts that hold its casing and take out the shaft itself).

7. Remove the cylinder head, which is held by bolts or nuts on studs.

After this stage, the motor can be turned over and the pan removed (there will be a gasket under it).

8. Remove the oil pump. We unscrew the cover of the rear oil seal, unscrew the bolts, remove the locking bracket and, using a screwdriver on the back of the engine, take out the pump shaft and its drive gear. Be especially careful, this detail is very important in the operation of the internal combustion engine!

10. The next step is the removal of the connecting rods. First of all, we turn the crankshaft so that the two connecting rods are in top position. Then we unscrew the nuts and remove the yoke (the cover sits tightly, you have to help yourself with a hammer, just be careful). We push the connecting rod along with the piston. We do this with all rods. It is better to put the covers in place, this will simplify the assembly later (the numbers of the covers and connecting rods must match).

11. Remove the main covers by unscrewing the nuts that secure them.

12. We take out the crankshaft, remove the old liners and retaining half rings.

Congratulations: the engine is disassembled!

Motor assembly

As it is not difficult to guess, the assembly power unit produced in reverse order. But here it is important to consider some points:

There are special marks on the connecting rod housing that must match the marks on the cylinder block housing. In addition, the cap and connecting rod must also match one another.

Connecting rod and main bearings must be installed so that they and seats locks matched.

The main and connecting rod caps are tightened with a torque wrench. In this case, the tightening force will be different for different cars. You can find out more about this in your passport or in special reference literature on specific model auto.

The nuts on the cylinder head must be tightened in a checkerboard pattern, starting with the middle ones, while they must be tightened, also observing a certain order.

All surfaces between which gaskets will be installed must be thoroughly cleaned. If there are scuffs or burrs, they need to be sanded with a file.

And finally, we note that this article provides general order actions. However, for different models there may be some discrepancies in the details, therefore, if you want to disassemble and assemble the engine of your car yourself, it is better to keep special literature on hand specifically for your car.

The second decade of the 2000s cannot be called a time of total shortages; now, if you wish, you can buy any product, as long as you have money. But there were times when the store shelves were empty, including a tension with spare parts for cars.

ZMZ-402 - installation of old pistons

In the 80s and early 90s, I worked as a minder in a taxi depot, I don’t want to say that there were no new spare parts in stock at all, but there was definitely a shortage of them. Then blat decided a lot - some taxi drivers received any parts in the warehouse, others were given only gaskets and seals for repairing the engine, and even pistons and rings from the Cheboksary repair plant.

It was risky to put the Cheboksary piston one - the pistons had the wrong geometry, because of this there were scuffs in the cylinders, and there were not enough parts for a long time. I remember well that we had to file the piston skirts (the edges in the area of the piston pins) with a file, and then sand them with sandpaper. It got to the point that used repair parts in good condition they didn’t throw it away, but under them they swung standard cartridge cases that needed repair. Used Zavolzhsky pistons sometimes ran longer than new CHARZ pistons, with good piston rings they could last up to 100 thousand km.

Old connecting rod bearings

Some motorists may perceive my story with sarcasm, now engines are rarely assembled like this. But at the end of the eighties, we often had no choice, we had to put second-hand spare parts wherever possible.

The most undercarriage used, which was actively used by almost all minders of our workshop - connecting rod bearings, the sizes "standard" and 0.05 were considered running. The crankshafts of the 402nd engine are quite reliable and “patient”, the connecting rods knock on them only when the driver drives the car completely without oil. Usually, after a run of 100-200 thousand km, the connecting rod journals “weaken” by 0.03-0.04 mm, so as not to grind the c / shaft, you have to combine “standard” and 0.05 (4 + 4) liners. Only no one wrote out two sets to the taxi driver, so we never threw out the old liners in more or less normal condition.

If the shaft on the connecting rod bearings is loosened by 0.07-0.08 mm, it is also not necessary to grind the connecting rod journals, new 0.05 liners are needed here. This size has always been in short supply, so what to do? We got out of the situation simply - we put used parts, and between the liners and the covers of the connecting rods we laid a layer of oiled parchment paper. In some cases, two layers of paper were required to take up the slack. By the way, practically no one has ever used copper foil in our country - usually it is thicker than necessary.

I would also like to note that it is undesirable to install old main liners on the 402nd motor, but we had to do this. It is important here that there is no development on the main journals of the shaft themselves. It should be noted that the liners always wear out much less than the bearings on the crankshaft.

Old gaskets and seals

Outages with spare parts in the warehouse arose often, for example, pallet gaskets or front oil seals could not be delivered. Of course, PGBTs on the ZMZ-402 engine cannot be used again, but used oil pan gaskets often had to be installed, the main thing here is to know which joints need to be smeared with sealant.

The old oil seal to / shaft with "oak" rubber is not suitable for further operation, but if the rubber is soft, it can still be used:

carefully remove the steel spring from the stuffing box;
we find the lock, and disconnect the ends of the spring (we unwind, it is not necessary to pull here);
we cut the "piece of iron" at the wide edge;
we connect the ends of the spring (screw in), assemble the gland.

Due to such simple wisdom, the rubber is more tightly pressed against the shaft, and the stuffing box should not leak.

old piston rings

Some may consider installing old piston rings sacrilegious, but I have had to do this many times. True, there is one “but”: in order for the rings to serve for some time, you need to take them one size larger, and grind off the excess metal at the joint with sandpaper. It should be noted that this work is jewelry, you can ruin the ring in no time. Sharpening metal with a needle file is a thankless task; with the sharpening of one set, you can take half a day.

The engine, when installing old piston rings in exhausted cylinders, will undoubtedly smoke at first. But after 1000-1500 km, the parts should wear in, and gray smoke disappears from the muffler pipe. Of course, used rings are not always worn, a lot depends on the wear of the cylinders.

The sharpening and installation of used piston rings on foreign cars is still relevant - I had to repair a Ford Sierra in the mid-90s, when there was a real trouble with new spare parts. The driver brought the parts from the car disassembly - piston group the first repair size. I had to worry a lot, adjusting the gaps on the emery wheel, it was impossible to pump the rings here. But everything went well, I know that after the repair, the engine departed for at least three years.

Old PGBTs on Volkswagen Passat B3

In 1999, it was tight with spare parts for foreign cars, and engine repairs with original parts back then it was expensive. I remember we took Passat repair B3, the inline four was smoking and wasting oil. When I removed the head of the block, I saw that the output on the cylinder liners is simply colossal. The owner of the car consulted with the machine operators, and they advised him to bore the block to 82 mm, install pistons from 21083.

The craftsmen fitted the standard VAZ pistons to fit the VW piston pins, I just had to assemble the engine. Everything would be fine, but the unforeseen happened here - in top dead point, the pistons protruded about 0.8 mm above the block. The owner of the Volkswagen did not know what to do, but I offered him an option - to install two head gaskets. One PGBTS was already there, it remained to find a second one.

On Audi and Volkswagen, the head gaskets are tough and durable, and I took the engine apart carefully. I had to install two PGBTs - one old and one new, and the experiment was a success, the engine worked flawlessly. The only trouble is that the compression became higher, and the AI-92 was no longer suitable, so the owner of the car switched to the 95th gasoline. But repair cost relatively inexpensive, and I was convinced that sometimes you can put old head gaskets.

Engine assembly

1. Clear a deposit on the edges of beds of the block of cylinders. Clean deposits from oil grooves in beds.

2. Establish loose leaves of radical bearings in bed of the block of cylinders according to the labels made at dismantling. Please note that the middle liner A is without a groove. When installing the liners, their locking antennae must enter the grooves of the beds. Lubricate the liners with engine oil.

3. Install crankshaft into the cylinder block.

4. Grease persistent half rings with engine oil. Pay attention to the grooves of the half rings - these sides of the half rings are installed to the cheeks of the crankshaft.

5. Install the steel-aluminum half ring ( white color) from the front side of the middle bed (camshaft drive side) ...

6. ... cermet ( yellow color) - on the other side of the bed.

7. Turn the half rings so that their ends are flush with the ends of the bed.

8. Insert loose leaves into covers of radical bearings according to the labels made at dismantling. In this case, the locking antennae of the liners should enter the grooves of the covers. Lubricate the liners with engine oil.

9. Install the covers according to the marks. The covers are marked (notches) in accordance with the cylinder number. The exception is the fifth cover, on which two marks are applied, as well as on the second one. On the second cover there are two threaded holes for the oil receiver mounting bolts. The cylinder numbers are counted from the camshaft drive side, and the covers are installed with marks A towards the generator bracket B.

10. Grease with engine oil a carving and end faces of heads of bolts of fastening of covers.

11. Screw in the bolts and tighten them to the required torque in the following order: first tighten the bolts of the third cover 1, then the second 2 and fourth 3, then the first 4 and fifth 5. After tightening the bolts, turn the crankshaft two or three turns - it should rotate easily , without jamming.

12. For ease of installation, lubricate with a thin layer grease oil pump gasket and "glue" it to the block. Remove excess grease.

13. Install the oil pump and screw in the bolts of its fastening (see. "Removal and installation of the oil pump" ).

14. For ease of installation, lightly grease the rear oil seal retainer gasket and “glue” it to the block. Remove excess grease.

15. Establish the holder of a back epiploon and screw bolts of its fastening (see. "Replacing crankshaft seals" ).

16. Insert the connecting rod into the piston in accordance with the previously made marks so that part number A on the connecting rod is facing away from lug B on the piston boss.

Rice. 4.16.Device for pressing the piston pin: 1-roller; 2-piston pin; 3-guide sleeve; 4-screw; 5 distance ring

17. To press the piston pin, it is better to use special device. In its absence, you can choose a suitable mandrel. Put the piston pin 2 (Fig. 4.16) on the roller 1 of the tool for installing the piston pin with the distance ring 5 put on it. Then put on the guide sleeve 3 and fix it with the screw 4 without tightening it. Distance ring dimensions: outside diameter 22 mm, internal - 15 mm, thickness - 4 mm.

18. Heat the connecting rod head to 240°C in an oven for 15 minutes. Clamp the connecting rod in a vise, install the piston on it so that the holes for the pin match, and insert the fixture with the pin into the holes of the piston and connecting rod until it stops. For correct installation finger, the piston should be pressed with the boss against the upper head of the connecting rod in the direction of pressing.

19. After the connecting rod has cooled, lubricate the piston pin through the hole in the piston bosses.

20. Install retaining rings on both sides of the pin. Pay attention to the fact that the rings must be clearly installed in the piston grooves.

21. Install the oil scraper ring expansion spring on the piston.

22. Install piston rings. It is recommended to do this with a special puller. If it is not there, install the rings on the piston, carefully spreading their locks.

23. The order of installation of rings: first install oil scraper ring(the lock of the ring must be on the opposite side of the lock of the expansion spring), then the lower compression ring, the last - the upper one.

24. Please note that the rings may be embossed with the inscription "VAZ", "TOP" or "TOP". With this inscription, the rings are installed upwards (towards the piston crown). If there is no inscription, the oil scraper and top compression can be installed in any position.

25. The lower compression ring differs from the upper one, except for the thickness, by the presence of a groove; it is installed with this groove down. Turn the rings in the piston grooves to make sure they turn easily. If any ring does not turn or sticks, it must be replaced.

26. Install the rings on the piston so that their locks are located at an angle of 120 ° to each other.

27. Thoroughly wipe the connecting rod journals of the crankshaft with a clean cloth.

28. Thoroughly wipe the cylinder mirrors with a clean cloth and lubricate them with engine oil.

29. Insert the liner into the connecting rod in accordance with the marks made earlier so that the tab of the liner fits into the groove in the connecting rod. Then lubricate the liner and piston with engine oil.

30. Put a special mandrel on the piston to compress the piston rings and carefully lower the connecting rod into the cylinder. It is recommended to pre-turn the crankshaft so that the piston to be installed is at BDC. The arrow on the piston crown must point towards the front of the engine (toward the camshaft drive).

31. Firmly press the mandrel against the block and use the hammer handle to push the piston into the cylinder. If the mandrel does not fit snugly against the cylinder block, piston rings can be broken.

32. Establish the lower head of a rod on a neck of a cranked shaft.

33. Insert the liner into the connecting rod cover in accordance with the marks made earlier so that the liner antenna enters the groove in the cover. Then lubricate the bearing with engine oil.

34. Install the connecting rod cap. The cylinder numbers on the cap and the bottom end of the connecting rod must be on the same side.

35. Wrap nuts of fastening of a cover and tighten them the demanded moment. Install the rest of the pistons in the same way.

36. Insert the oil level sensor into the cylinder block. If necessary, turn the crankshaft so that the counterweight of the shaft does not interfere with the insertion of the sensor. Then tighten the sensor mounting bolt.

37. Install the oil receiver and screw in the three bolts of its fastening.

38. Apply sealant to the flywheel mounting bolts. Install the flywheel, lock plate and screw in the flywheel mounting bolts (for details, see Fig. "Removal, installation and troubleshooting of the flywheel" ).

39. For ease of installation, apply a thin layer of grease to the surface of the block and “glue” the oil pan gasket to it.

40. Establish an oil case and screw in bolts of its fastening. Next, assemble the engine in the reverse order of disassembly. Install the cylinder head (see (acticleLink855) "Replacing the cylinder head gasket" (acticleLink855) ), camshaft drive belt (see "Replacing the camshaft drive belt and adjusting the belt tension" ).

41. Establish other knots and details in an order, the return to removal.

USEFUL TIPS

After assembling the engine, it is recommended to run it on the stand. Since it is impossible to do this outside of special repair organizations, after installing the engine on a car, run it in according to a simplified cycle:

1) make sure the drive adjustment is correct throttle valve, fill in oil and coolant, check the tightness of all connections;

2) start the engine and let it run without load for the next cycle. Do not bring the engine to maximum modes;

3) during operation, check the tightness of the engine and its systems, oil pressure, pay attention to the presence of extraneous noise;

4) if found extraneous noise or other malfunctions, stop the engine and eliminate their cause;

5) when starting the operation of the car, observe the modes provided for the period of running in a new car.

Nowadays, a car is not a luxury, but a means of transportation familiar to everyone. As a result, the number of motorists who prefer to independently repair their vehicle is growing. This is due to the rather high prices for service stations.

Required Tools

Consider the engine assembly process using the example of a VAZ 2106 car. To assemble the engine, you will need the following tools:

First of all, you will need a set of keys in the following sizes: 12-14, 17, 19, 21, 22, 36.
If there is no set of keys, use a gas key.
Piston pin press tool.
A conventional torque wrench and size 12 and 13 sockets. If these are not available, a cylinder head bolt wrench can be used.
Hammer.
Screwdriver.
Mounting blade.

It is this minimum set of tools that is needed to work with the engine of a VAZ 2106 car. Now let's consider the process of assembling the engine for this car.

Engine Assembly

Imagine that you have a disassembled engine of a VAZ 2106 car. It doesn’t matter if you assemble it after repair, diagnostics, or assemble a new engine from spare parts, the sequence of actions will be the same. Try to allocate a few hours of free time for assembling the engine and do not forget to prepare all the necessary tools listed above.

First of all, you need to assemble the engine pistons. Place the piston pin with spacer ring on the piston pin press tool, fit the guide sleeve and secure it.
Preheat the oven to 240 degrees (even a simple, homemade one will do) and place the connecting rod in it so that when heated, its head expands. After heating, quickly remove it and clamp it in a vise, put on the piston and push the piston pin into the holes. When the connecting rod is cool, lubricate it with engine oil.
Install piston rings.
In the same way, assemble the remaining pistons and install piston rings on them.
In special beds of the block of cylinders establish loose leaves of radical bearings. The mounting antennae of the liners must be aligned with the special grooves of the bed. Lubricate them after installation.
The crankshaft is installed in the cylinder block.
Next, special lower bushings must be installed in the root bearing caps.
Lubricate the crankshaft journals and the bearing shells in the crankshaft bearing caps.
After that, install the bearing caps and lubricate their thrust half rings with oil.
Establish back and forward half rings of a back support of a crankshaft.
Install the rear main bearing cap and cap bolts, then secure them with a torque wrench.
Be sure to check the axial clearance of the crankshaft with a mounting blade. If the gap is more than 0.35 millimeters, it is necessary to replace the thrust half rings with thicker ones.
Check the correct assembly of the crankshaft by turning it several times by hand. A properly assembled crankshaft should rotate freely, without delay and smoothly.
Insert the connecting rod bolts and connecting rod bearings, aligning the tabs of the bearing with the notch of the connecting rod.
Lubricate the cylinder mirrors, as well as the pistons, rings and connecting rod bearings.
Using a piston ring compressor, install the pistons into the cylinders. Cylinder number and connecting rod number must match.
Install the connecting rod bearings into the connecting rod caps. Then lubricate the connecting rod bearings and the connecting rod journals of the crankshaft.
Install the connecting rod cover, after connecting the marks on the connecting rod and the cover. Install the other connecting rod caps in the same way. Tighten the nuts with a torque wrench.
Install the crankshaft rear oil seal holder. Center it and secure with bolts. Avoid twists.
Install and secure the flywheel.
Install the remaining components: the sprocket on the crankshaft, the ignition distributor drive gear, the oil pump drive shaft and the oil pump itself, the oil crankcase, the cylinder head. Tighten all components and parts with bolts.
Install the camshaft together with the bearing block on the cylinder head. Fasten with screws.
Install the chain tension shoe, put on the chain. Install the stop bolt.
Put the chain on the oil pump drive shaft sprocket. Also install the chain on the camshaft sprocket.
Install the chain tensioner.
Install the camshaft timing chain cover. Center it and fix it with special bolts. Install and secure the remaining elements, assemblies and parts.

Attention, only TODAY!

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