This article is a modeler's story about making a homemade radio-controlled model all-wheel drive vehicle range rover from plastic model. It reveals the nuances of manufacturing axle drives, installing electronics and many other nuances.
So, I decided to make a car model with my own hands!
I bought an ordinary bench model Range Rover in the store. The price of this model is 1500 rubles, in general it is a little expensive, but the model is worth it! Initially I thought about making a hammer, but this model is much more suitable in design. 
I had electronics, well, I took some parts from a trophy called "cat" which I had not needed for a long time and was disassembled for parts!
Of course, it was possible to take other prefabricated models as a basis, but I wanted just such an off-road jeep.
It all started with bridges and differentials that I made from copper pipes and soldered with a regular 100w soldering iron. The differentials here are ordinary, the gear is plastic, the rods and drive bones are iron from the trophy. 
These tubes can be purchased at any hardware store. 
I took the differential gear from a regular printer. I didn’t need him for a long time and now I decided that it was time for him to rest. 
Everything turned out pretty reliably, but it’s rather inconvenient to work with a soldering iron!
After I made the differentials, I had to close them with something, I closed them with pill caps. 
And painted it with regular car paint. It turned out beautifully, although beauty is hardly needed for a trophy.
Then it was necessary to make steering rods and put bridges on the frame. The frame was included and to my surprise it turned out to be iron, not plastic.
It was not easy to do this, since the scale of the parts is very small and it was not possible to solder here, I had to bolt it. Steering rods I took from the same old trophy that I dismantled.
All parts of the differentials are on bearings. Since I made the model on for a long time.
I also ordered a gearbox with a reduction gear, the gear will be switched on by a microservo machine from the remote control.
Well, in general, then I installed a plastic bottom, cut a hole in it, installed a gearbox, cardan shafts, a home-made gearbox, an ordinary collector engine for such a small model, it makes no sense to put a bc and the speed is not important to me. 
The engine is from a helicopter, but in the gearbox it is quite powerful.
The most important thing is that the model does not move in jerks, but smoothly without delay, the gearbox was not easy to make, but I had a heap of details, the main thing is ingenuity. 
The reducer was screwed to the bottom, it kept perfectly, but to attach the bottom to the frame I had to tinker.
Then I installed electronics, shock absorbers, battery. At first I installed the electronics rather weak and the regulator and the receiver were a single unit, but then I installed everything separately and the electronics were more powerful.
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And finally, painting, installation of all the main components, decals, headlights, and more. I painted everything with regular plastic paint in 4 coats then painted the fenders brown and sanded the parts to give a shabby and worn look. 
The body of the model and the color are completely original, the color was found on the Internet and the photo real car everything was done according to the original. This color combination exists on real car and in this color they were painted at the factory.
Well, here are the final photos. I will add a video with the test a little later, and the model turned out to be very passable, the speed was 18 km / h, but I did it not for speed. In general, I am satisfied with my work, and it is up to you to evaluate it.
The machine is not big size the scale is 1x24 in size and there is the whole point of the idea, I wanted a mini trophy for myself.
The model is not afraid of moisture! Germetil himself simply varnished the electronics, very reliably, no moisture is terrible.
Servo machine micro park from the aircraft for 3.5 kg.
The battery lasts for 25 minutes of riding, but I will install more powerful electronics and a battery, because this one is not quite enough.
Even the bumpers are the same as on the original. And fastenings on them too. The drive on it is not 50-50%, but 60-40%.
In general, the Range Rover turned out in a rustic style, I didn’t even think that it would turn out to be so high-quality to paint because I really don’t know how to paint, although there’s nothing difficult! .1390645295252.prev.jpg)
I forgot to add for the sake of beauty, I also installed a roll cage and a full spare tire. Spare wheel and frame were included with the kit.
More about radio-controlled models:
Misha comments:
Tell me how the four-wheel drive is arranged, what is inside the bridge besides the transfer case? There must be rounded fist after all.
Becoming a happy owner of a powerful and reliable toy controlled from a distance is a dream not only for many children, but also for some parents. Today, manufacturers are ready to offer a variety of entertainment that can surprise even the most sophisticated young consumers. Radio-controlled equipment can be a wonderful gift, and with correct operation it can last quite a long time.
Among a large number of models, radio-controlled gasoline cars deserve special attention, since the power and reliability indicators of these products are among the highest. About the features of these popular toys, their technical specifications and types further and will be discussed.
What is a remote control petrol machine?
First of all, it is worth saying that such a product is almost complete, but only a reduced copy of the usual vehicle. These cars also run on gasoline, while the maximum speeds are really impressive: some models easily accelerate to 80 km / h. However, it would be useful to note the fact that such mechanisms periodically require repair, as well as regular cars, therefore, the process of "driving" should be approached with all seriousness.
Of course, it is not recommended to use such toys indoors, since their full potential can only be appreciated in open areas, for example, on paved roads.
The main characteristics of petrol cars on radio control
There are many varieties of these models: these are cars for road racing, and buggies, and samples designed exclusively for drifting, which will be discussed a little later. This or that radio-controlled machine with a gasoline engine has its own characteristics.
So, distinctive feature these models is a remote control. For radio-controlled samples, its maximum radius of interaction with the machine is usually about 150 m.
Another unique detail is Gas engine, the power of which can be different. The scope of its operation depends on what type of motor is installed in a particular model.
If we compare radio-controlled gasoline cars in size, then we can safely distinguish both children's reduced products and large toys that are more suitable for adult lovers of such equipment.
What should determine the choice of a gasoline radio-controlled car?
In order for the purchased equipment to bring only joy, you should first carefully study the entire range of products and stop at the most suitable one. When choosing a typewriter for a child, it is necessary to be guided primarily by his age, but you should also think about how he will use the toy. If the main requirement for a product is speed, then it is best to choose a road sample, and for overcoming obstacles it is ideal fit model off-road type.
How younger child, the easier it should be to manage. It is better to refuse to purchase highly sensitive devices so that the owner of the machine does not experience problems. At the same time, attention should also be paid to the size of the product, since some radio-controlled gasoline cars are quite voluminous, which can be very inconvenient for small child. Large models are ideal for adults.
Proper operation of a gasoline machine on a remote control
In order for such a toy to last as long as possible, you need to responsibly approach its content. Do not forget that it is very problematic for a child to cope with such a technique, so it is better if there is always an adult nearby. Of course, all repair and maintenance work (changing fuel, oil, lubricating parts, etc.) should also be carried out by parents, not only because of the risk of equipment breakdown, but also because harmful fuel vapors are dangerous for the child's body.
Many radio-controlled gasoline cars are sold unassembled, so it is extremely important to follow the attached instructions when assembling such products. In addition, safety rules exclude any play near fire sources and open water.
Characteristics and advantages of radio-controlled cars for drifting
As mentioned earlier, fuel-powered equipment powered by remote control, may differ depending on its purpose. So, radio-controlled gasoline cars for drifting are very popular among consumers. Both adults and children like these models, and their difference from ordinary high-speed toys lies in the following technical characteristics:
- such gasoline cars are equipped with special shock absorbers with drift springs;
- the tires of these products do not have a tread pattern and are more rigid than conventional models;
- as a rule, the basis of the body of such a toy is shockproof plastic, as well as a durable bumper that protects equipment from impacts;
- the special design of the suspension allows you to perform various technical elements.
How not to make a mistake when choosing a gas drift car?
Radio-controlled toy cars designed specifically for such purposes are not worth buying at all. little child, since the minimum age of the owner must be 3 years.
In addition, it should be remembered that there are no completely universal models. This means that by acquiring toy car for drifting, you should not expect any other properties from it, like high speeds or high traffic.
Another important point is a type of built-in motor. The radio-controlled gasoline car used for drifting (photos of various samples can always be found in specialized publications) should have a very powerful motor so that the loads applied to the model do not harm it. The complete set of a new product, as a rule, assumes that the toy is ready to ride without the need to purchase additional parts.
The main parts of a gasoline machine on a remote control
Parents do not always have the opportunity to buy an expensive toy for their child in a store. But if we talk about gasoline cars, then such products can be made independently. The device of these toys in many ways resembles the structure standard car, so for many drivers the installation process will be clear.
To figure out how to make a radio-controlled gasoline car, you should initially decide what parts will be needed for this work. So, the following structural parts are included in the package of a standard toy:
- shockproof body;
- gasoline engine of the desired power;
- strong wheels;
- chassis;
- a set of tools in the form of screwdrivers of different sizes.
Assembly features
Do-it-yourself gasoline radio-controlled cars are easy to make. After acquisition necessary materials should do the installation.
When attaching the front wheels to the frame, make sure they turn easily. It is best to choose rubber tires, since it is this material that has the most quality grip with the road surface.
The body for the car can simply be purchased at the store, but many owners want to create a unique toy and come up with their own sketch of the body, which is subsequently made with the help of a specialist.
When choosing a radio unit for control, you should not save on it, since the quality of this part directly affects the convenience of controlling the vehicle.
Of course, one of the most important components of the machine is its engine. Gasoline samples require careful maintenance, but their power ratings are the highest.
Thus, it is safe to say that it is quite possible to assemble a radio-controlled car that operates with the help of fuel with your own hands, the main thing is to have the desire and the entire list of necessary parts for this.
I can’t stand unfinished projects, so I didn’t post a single photo of this model until it was fully built. Finally, my skill crossed with my aspirations. The model was built half a year. Well, let me tell you how and what I came to.
I think many people remember an article about a homemade truggie from Sergey Erastov from Saratov (),
and so it was this article that spurred me on the construction of this model.
Before that, I was building a model of something in the likeness of a monster with rear wheel drive. 
The quality left much to be desired, so I decided to look online good example homemade car model. Came across either unfinished, or constructions from purchased parts, or such models, to which I was like walking to the moon, and the former are dozens of times more. I won’t say that I have been sitting idle all this time, I just didn’t do anything particularly interesting, let’s say, I improved my skills. But then I came across an article by Sergei, his easy approach to business struck me, simple plastic parts, a fairly accurate assembly, except that the branded gearbox confused me a little, well, in principle, it’s clear, it’s more than difficult to make the differential yourself. And I thought, monsters are no longer for me, we need to build something like a truggie, Sergey has already expressed its advantages. In general, I began to develop. It was decided to raise the bar, I decided to make all-wheel drive without using branded gearboxes, I refused differentials, because I had bitter experience in building them, the last design shattered into pieces when testing the model, although it worked flawlessly at low speeds. I learned how to make cardans, for this special thanks to the self-made laboratory! The first telescopic drives were criticized by my friend, referring to their fragility, so I made more powerful ones from stainless steel (all cardans are made of tube, the first 4x6 mm, the second 4x8 mm). If the cross in the first version consisted of millimeter pins, then in the second version there were 1.5 mm pins. I made telescopic cardans to compensate for the beating, and the geometry of the suspension did not allow them to be of constant length. 
At first I tried to do four-wheel drive on my old model, in the end, there is already a foundation ... But in the end, only a couple of pins remained from the old model, and I consider this approach to be correct, in order to make a model you need brains and materials, and not finished parts, all these factory nodes only interfere with building the structure to which you if you want to come, you always have to adapt to what you have, so the less you have details - themes easier to design.
A CNC machine appeared in our aircraft modeling club, so it became a little easier for me in terms of manufacturing accurate parts, but on this machine only gearbox parts and several bushings made of plywood 3 mm and 10 mm thick were made for the model. For the model, I developed a universal gearbox that could work from different motors, from the 280th type to the 400th, motors could be installed in pairs of the same type naturally.
If front axle was with independent suspension, then from behind I thought that the dependent would also come down, maybe in vain, but this cannot be changed. From the gearbox to the bridges, the rotation was transmitted through tubes with slots for the pins, this design worked approximately like CV joints on branded models, only instead of a ball, a rubber gasket centered the tube, and I must say that it worked really well, at small angles (up to about 20 degrees) movement transferred without problems. 
I installed a 380 type brushless motor, I fixed the equipment and battery on the "second floor", it was time for testing. 
AND 
here is the first exit, at first everything was fine, the car tore sharply and overcame bumps in the yard, but in less than a minute something began to slip, and the car stopped. The design was summed up by plastic bevel gears, which I did not expect from them. No universal joints, no aluminum tubes, no plywood gearbox, namely gears. I was in despair, because I couldn’t replace them with anything better, they didn’t break, their teeth didn’t wear off, they just slipped, no matter how hard I pressed them. I had already abandoned all-wheel drive, fixed the gearbox on rear axle and rode like this, but the benefit came to me Tamiya chain transmission. It was a prefabricated plastic chain and a few sprockets, I ordered this set to try, but it turned out to be useful to me sooner than I expected.
I redid the axles for a chain drive, left the gearbox on the rear axle, hoping that if the four-wheel drive flies, at least the rear one will remain. The model was tested, it turned out to be very frisky, the absence of differentials, as it seemed to me, did not greatly affect the handling. I took over the hull.
The case is glued out of PVC with a thickness of 2 mm and 5 mm, I did not bother much with the shape and built something like a brick, because if it shatters during testing, it will at least not be so pitiful, but the first anti wing I got a very complex shape. Well, of course, a curly anti-wing shattered during the tests, so I simplified it.
Well, in the end, the model drives fast off-road, looks quite good in my opinion, in general, everything that I wanted.
From purchased parts:
- Ball tips of two types,
- Plastic chain tamiya ladder chain sprocket set
- FLYSKY FS-GT3B 2.4G 3ch radio and TP MG995 RC Metal Gear 55g Servo High Speed & Torque 13KG Servo Motor
- 380 type brushless motor with ESC
From loose details:
-Gears
-Metal corners
Here's a video:
Here is a photo: 
And here are the details that were not included in the final design: 
And here is a photo of my model next to a friend’s model, by the way, it is also self-made with front-wheel drive 
Here is a photo of the insides: 
Yes, there were many breakdowns, but I learned a lot from them:
1) It is better to use only spur gears.
2) A fixed position of all gears is always better than an adjustable one.
3) Plastic gears are best fixed through an intermediate metal part.
4) Four-wheel drive still not a panacea, you can ride well without it.
5) Scale 1/16 is not convenient for building or for rides, it is better to build 1/10 right away.
Have I been successful? In the construction of the model, yes, she drives, even not bad. But I won’t advise anyone to repeat this design, everything is painfully complicated here, and the reason is simple - the drawing was done almost in parallel with the model, and action should never be ahead of thought. My task for the future is to design a chassis for competition.
I have been involved in aircraft modeling since early childhood, but I am not indifferent to car models either. Unfortunately, I grew up in a generation where surprise is not branded car models, but homemade ones. With the advent of mass toy and sports branded car models, home-made devices gradually left the track, now a car model is what is on the window of a specialized store ... This does not suit me at all. Understand, I’m not against purchased models, I myself have them, let them be, not everyone builds homemade ones, I just don’t like that purchased models are completely forced out of the track homemade designs, and after all, initially car modeling was a sport of skillful guys who were not afraid to build complex and reliable structures.
Do-it-yourself modellers, live, unite, diversify our kind of modeling!
Buying a radio-controlled device today is not a problem. And a car, and a train, and a helicopter, and a quadcopter. But it is much more interesting to try to create a radio-controlled car with your own hands. We will provide you with two detailed instructions.
Model #1: What will we need?
To create this radio-controlled model you will need:
- A model car (you can even take an ordinary Chinese one from the market).
- ARU auto.
- Solenoid for opening the doors of a VAZ car, battery 2400 A / h, 12 V.
- A piece of rubber.
- Radiator.
- Electrical measuring instruments.
- Soldering iron, solder to it, as well as plumbing tools.
- Reducer.
- Collector engine (for example, from a toy helicopter).
Model No. 1: instructions for creating
And now let's start creating a radio-controlled car with our own hands:
Model No. 2: necessary components
To create a car you will need:
- Automobile model.
- Spare parts from an unnecessary collection machine, printer (gears, traction, iron drives).
- Copper tubes (sold in hardware stores).
- Soldering iron.
- Autoenamel.
- Bolts.
- Necessary electronics.
- Battery.
Model #2: Creating a Device
We begin to make a radio-controlled car with our own hands:
In conclusion, we present you one of the drawings for radio controlled models machines - receiver circuit.
Homemade Radio-controlled car- this is reality. Of course, making it from scratch will not work - develop your experience on simpler models.
On given time on sale you can find miniature models of radio-controlled aircraft, this includes the Ofice Flyer, which is produced by Pilotage. On such models, you can fly in small rooms or halls with up to 10-15 people. But due to the crisis, the cost of such aircraft models is within 1000 rubles, in addition, they break down very quickly due to very weak design, they only last a few hits. Then the toy can be thrown away, or you can use the engine, receiver and battery to make a homemade product out of it.
Such models are controlled by an infrared transmitter. In this regard, flying on the street in sunny weather on such an aircraft model will not work. You need to wait for cloudy weather or evening. In total, the model has two channels for control, with the help of one the engine speed is controlled, and the second channel is reserved for steering.
In this article, we will look at how you can assemble such a mini-model of a flying aircraft yourself using a miniature radio-controlled car for office racing as a basis. Such machines cost about 250-300 rubles, and this is 2/3 less cost office flyer.
Materials and tools for homemade:
- miniature car on radio control;
- soldering iron;
- ceiling tiles;
- adhesive for ceiling tiles;
- ruler;
- scissors, clerical knife;
- wires and other little things.
Aircraft manufacturing process:
Step one. We disassemble the machine
First you need to disassemble the machine from which the aircraft model will be made. You need to do this carefully, you should try to keep the wires of the engine and steering in their places.
Step two. Creating an airplane model
The aircraft model is made from ceiling tiles, for this you will need to download the drawing and print it. You can download the desired model drawing from. The fuselage of the model turns out to be flat, its contour is made of ceiling tiles 3.5-4 mm thick.
For the manufacture of the wing and tail, you will need a ceiling tile, spread in half. You can dissolve the ceiling in half with a piece of nichrome wire, which is connected to a power source. To do this, drills of the required diameter or other suitable items are placed under the ceiling tiles. On top of the ceiling is pressed with plywood or an MDF sheet, a weight is placed on top. Now the sheet only needs to be pulled evenly through the red-hot nichrome. The result is two sheets of ceiling tiles of the same width.
Another option is to first glue the workpiece, and then with the help of sandpaper glued to the bar, grind off the excess, but this is a rather lengthy and painstaking procedure.
The wings of the model should be arranged in a V-shape. This is done so that the model aircraft itself stabilizes during the flight.
According to the author, the easiest way is to make a twin-engine model. As an example, you can assemble a bomb model
driver with two engines.
Another option is to assemble a flying wing, as an example, the Stealth model. But for such a homemade product, you will need a controller that controls two motors, find one in radio-controlled cars it will be hard. But most often, such electronics are found in radio-controlled tanks.
The peculiarity of this model is that it does not require steering wheels for turns. The model will turn due to the fact that there will be a difference in thrust between the left and right screws. It is on this principle that the electronics in the tank work.
Even in such tanks there is a channel with which the tower is controlled. It can be used to control the elevator or turns.
If the model has only one motor control, then an actuator is used for turns. The same device is used to rotate the front axle of the minicar. It must also be carefully removed from the toy, leaving the winding intact. If the winding has been damaged, then you can do it yourself, you just need to wind a thin wire around a paper tube.
Step three. The final stage. Engine
When installing the engine, it is placed slightly skewed up, in other words, the axis of the engine should look slightly up relative to the axis of the model. The screw in the model needs to be used large, for its operation you will need to make a gearbox. Such a gearbox can be made from gears that are in watches, others Chinese toys, old printer and so on.
And the gearbox can be made belt
If a model with two motors is going to be assembled, then in addition to mowing up, the axis of the motors should be turned slightly to the center. The point is that on full throttle propellers will pull the model up and it will take off. And on medium gas, the model aircraft will fly straight.
As for the control, if it is discrete (button), then the model will fly in a parabola. That is, when you click on the button, they will go maximum speed engine, and the model will take off, and when the button is released, the plane will glide. There may also be a reverse button on the remote control (reverse movement), it is better to turn it off, because if you press it when the engine is running, it can burn out, it will rotate by inertia.
The author feeds the micromodel from a powerful capacitor or an ionistor. The first flights can be done on such a power source, and in the future you can put a small LiPo battery. A single battery with a capacity of 150 mAh is enough to fly the model at full throttle for about half an hour.
If an infrared channel is used to control the model, then the sensor must be positioned in such a way that it can always be seen during flight. If radio control is used, then the antenna is located below the wing in the form of the letter P.
Concerning additional options, such as a siren, headlights, etc., then it is not necessary to connect them, they are not needed for flights.
Before you run the model, you need to center. To do this, the model is launched by hand with the engine turned off on something soft, for example, on a bed. The launch should be at an angle of approximately 10 degrees. The model should glide smoothly. If the plane flies in steps, that is, then lowers, then raises the nose, the center of gravity must be shifted to the bow. For example, you can move the battery.
Now you can make the first flights, it is best to test the model in a large room and preferably without witnesses so that no one interferes or distracts. Another model can be finalized by making the possibility of landing on the water. Then, in calm weather, you can go to the lake and fly there.
