297. Since detonating gas is formed during operation of the battery, it should not be inspected by illuminating it with an open fire.

Maintained batteries (for example, in VAZ cars) should be checked once a month in the summer during intensive use, and in other seasons, after 2500 - 3000 km, check the electrolyte level and bring the level to normal by pouring distilled water (when the electrolyte is heated, only water evaporates) .
Every 10,000-15,000 km (once a year), check the battery fastening, as well as the cleanliness and reliability of the wire tips on the battery pole posts. White plaque remove from the pins and tips with sandpaper, after which a thin layer of technical petroleum jelly is applied to the outer (non-contact!) surfaces.

298. Electrolyte spilled on the surface of the battery is removed with a rag soaked in soda or a 10% solution of ammonia.

Dirt and moisture are removed with a stiff-bristled brush and a dry, clean rag. Do not allow electrolyte to come into contact with metal parts of the car: this will lead to corrosion. Places of contact are cleaned and painted with acid-resistant paint.
When the slightest cracks appear in the body and potting mastic batteries, have the battery repaired. Temporarily, a crack in the battery can can be sealed with plasticine after first washing the area around it.
Regularly check that the battery is securely fastened to the vehicle; if necessary, tighten the nuts.

Do not tighten or unscrew the nuts of the wire lugs with pliers. Only with a wrench! You cannot hit the tip of the wire or pull the wire.
When starting the engine, the starter is turned on for no more than 10-15 seconds and only 2-3 times in a row, pausing for at least half a minute between starts. Take care of the battery, do not be lazy to switch to the appropriate gears for any changes in driving speed.

Checking the electrolyte level in the battery

299. Electrolyte level in battery checked through the filler holes using a glass tube with an internal diameter of 3-5 mm.

Lower the tube into the battery until it touches the safety shield, then tightly close its outer hole with your finger and remove it. The electrolyte column in the tube will indicate its level in the battery.

In batteries with an indicator (tube), the electrolyte should be at the same level with it or 5 mm higher than it. In batteries without a tube or indicator, the electrolyte level should be 5-10 mm above the safety shield or the top edge of the separators.
If the electrolyte level has dropped as a result of water evaporation (a normal process), you should add distilled water to the battery (in no case tap water or from a roadside stream - the battery will run out) at a temperature of 15-25 "C.
If the electrolyte level is higher than normal, you should suck it out with a rubber bulb with an ebonite tip, otherwise it will splash out of the battery.

300. After a long trip, inspect the battery. If electrolyte remains on its surface, then splashing occurs.

The reason for this may be increased level electrolyte in the battery (check and set it to normal) or the appearance of cracks in the case and filling mastic of the battery (the battery should be repaired).
If neither the first nor the second, then you should check and adjust the voltage of the generator and check whether the battery is sulfated.
If at external inspection It is discovered that the electrolyte is leaking, and it is not possible to immediately return the battery for repair; periodically add electrolyte to the faulty compartment.

Battery sulfation

301. If there is weak sulfation, the battery can be saved at a service station with one or several cycles of low current charge/discharge.

A heavily sulfated battery must be replaced: repair is not possible.
Sulfation occurs when driving a car with too much low level electrolyte in the battery, as well as when the battery remains in a discharged or not fully charged state for a very long time. In this case, large crystals of lead sulfate, insoluble in the electrolyte, form on the surface of the battery plates.

Battery storage

302. If the vehicle is not used for a long time, the battery should be removed and stored in a dry place.

Optimal temperature for storing serviced batteries Russian production- from -20 °C to 0 °C, maintenance-free Western batteries - from O °C to +27 °C. At such temperatures, plate corrosion and battery self-discharge slow down. The stored battery is recharged once every three months (6ST-55A battery - once a year). Storing a battery in a discharged state makes it unusable. If the battery is removed for the winter without operating the car at this time of year, then the battery is checked and recharged in the spring, before installation.

Electrolyte preparation

When water is poured into the acid, boiling occurs, the heated acid splashes and causes burns.
The electrolyte is prepared from battery sulfuric acid of only the highest grade (the first grade will lead to premature exit battery is out of order) and distilled water that was not in iron vessels. The dishes for preparing electrolyte can be ceramic, ebonite, lead (not glass - they will burst).
The normal electrolyte density for the central regions of Russia is 1.28 g/cm3 (for areas with temperate climate) - prepared from 0.36 liters of sulfuric acid and 1 liter of distilled water.
The finished electrolyte is left in a closed container for 15-20 hours so that it cools down and sediment settles to the bottom.
Sulfuric acid should not be stored in loosely sealed containers: it quickly absorbs atmospheric moisture.
In the northern regions, where the temperature in winter drops to -40 °C, the normal density of the electrolyte is 1.29 g/cm3 (measured at a temperature of +20-25 °C). To prepare such an electrolyte, take 0.38 liters of sulfuric acid per liter of water.
In warm southern regions, where there are no severe frosts, the density of the electrolyte should be 1.26 g/cm3, and it is prepared at the rate of 0.33 liters of sulfuric acid per liter of water.
The higher the density of the electrolyte, the lower its freezing point.

304. If, during storage for a month, the battery is discharged by more than 10%, it needs to be inspected and repaired.

This can happen if you poured undistilled water into it, or if metal particles got into the battery. Perhaps replace the electrolyte by flushing the inside of the tank and wipe the surface of the battery.
Battery self-discharge also accelerates when the battery is stored for a long time. In this case, the density of the electrolyte in the lower layers becomes higher than in the upper ones.

305. If the battery discharges too quickly when using the car, first of all, strengthen your self-monitoring of the economical driving mode.

Avoid frequent engine starts when driving low speeds never forget to shift into lower gears.
Also, disable any unnecessary software you have installed. additional headlights and other unnecessary consumers of electricity.
Sometimes it is necessary to check whether current leakage occurs due to insulation damage in the electrical system (then a mi-liammeter connected between the tip of the positive wire and the positive terminal of the battery will show a current of more than 1 mA when consumers are disconnected), as well as checking the generator and regulator voltage, check for sulfation.

306. The density of the electrolyte in a serviced battery is measured with an acid meter - a car hydrometer (to find out the degree of discharge of the battery).

The tip of the acid meter is lowered into the filler hole of the battery, the electrolyte is sucked in, and the density of the electrolyte is determined by the divisions of the hydrometer floating in the flask.

Density reduced from the norm (which is 1.28 g/cm3) by 0.01 g/cm3 corresponds to a category of 6%. It should be remembered, however, that a temperature correction must be made to the acid meter readings. The electrolyte density should be 1.27-1.28 g/cm3 at a temperature of +25 °C. At a temperature of +5--10°C it increases by approximately 0.01 g/cm3, at a temperature of -10°C - by 0.02 g/cm3, at -25°C - by 0.03 g/cm3. Electrolyte density is not measured when the electrolyte level is abnormal, when the electrolyte is “boiling,” or when the electrolyte is too hot. Add distilled water to the battery and wait until the electrolyte is mixed (several hours if the battery is discharged).
If the battery is 25% discharged in winter (acid meter shows 1.25) or 50% discharged in summer (acid meter shows 1.19), it needs to be removed and recharged.
If you do not have a hydrometer, it is enough to check the density of the electrolyte twice a year: in spring and autumn.

Accumulator charging

307. The battery can be charged without removing it from the car, only by first disconnecting the positive and negative cables.

To charge the battery, you must do the following (items marked *> are not taken into account if the vehicle has a maintenance-free battery installed).
- Before charging, check the electrolyte level and, if necessary, add distilled water.
- A frozen battery must be thawed before charging.
- Unscrew the plugs from the battery or pull them out using a small screwdriver and place them on the holes. This prevents the acid from splashing out, and the gases generated during charging can escape freely.
- For charging, it is best to use a current equal to 0.1 battery capacity (if the battery capacity is 55 Ah, then the charging current should be 5.5 A.
- Charge the battery only in a well-ventilated area (if the battery is installed, the hood must be open).
- The positive terminal of the battery is connected to the positive terminal charger, and negative - with negative.
- Charge the battery until gas begins to actively form in all cells.
- After charging, check the electrolyte level, add distilled water if necessary.
- Also check the density of the electrolyte. If in one of the cells it is significantly (more than 0.04 g/cm3) lower than in the others (for example, in five cells - 1.28 g/cm3, and in one - 1.18 g/cm3), then , the battery is faulty and needs to be replaced.
- Wait approximately 20 minutes for gas to escape from the battery, then screw or insert the plugs.
When the battery is disconnected, the engine should not be running, otherwise the electrical equipment will be damaged.
The battery is usually charged by specialists.

308. If the battery is dead and does not rotate the crankshaft, and there is no way to start the engine from a tow, and there is no one nearby to help push the car, try the following trick.

Apply the handbrake, use a jack to raise the left drive wheel, close air damper carburetor, engage fourth or fifth gear. Wearing gloves or mittens (to avoid getting scratched), rotate the hanging wheel as you move.

When the engine starts running, put it in neutral and remove the jack.

309. When purchasing a new battery, select one with a capacity equal to or close to the capacity of the battery you are replacing.

Installing a battery with a capacity much larger than the calculated one gives only a temporary gain, because such a battery will be used undercharged. When purchasing, give preference to German or Scandinavian batteries, which are designed to operate in climate conditions similar to Russian ones, and at the same time are of very high quality. When purchasing a battery with filled electrolyte, check whether it is charged and what the density of the electrolyte is. The quality of European dry-charged batteries is guaranteed. Most Russian batteries, although called “dry-charged,” require recharging after filling with electrolyte. Fill the electrolyte into the newly purchased battery, check the density after an hour or two and recharge if it is below the specified level.

"Lighting" from another car's battery

310. When cars with a faulty battery are “lighted” from your battery, short circuits of the battery and powerful sparking are possible.

The same thing can happen if the opposite terminal is accidentally shorted to vehicle ground. Be careful when handling batteries.

311. To “light” (that is, make it easier to start the engine) from the battery of another car, it is better to use a cable with insulated clamps with a cross-sectional area of ​​25 mm2.

Both batteries must have a voltage of 12 V. The discharged battery should not be frozen, the fluid level in it should be normal. Cars must be kept at such a distance that they do not come into contact with each other, and parked on handbrake, lever arm manual box gears - in neutral, and automatic - in position "P". All electricity consumers must be turned off. The donor car engine must be running at Idling, which will avoid damage to the generator. When making it easier to start the engine in this way, you should be careful: you should not stand next to the battery with a lit cigarette, since flammable gas may be released from the charging battery.

312. If you have a special, industrial-made cable to facilitate engine starting, connect it in the following sequence:

The red cable is connected to the positive pole of the discharged battery;
- the other end of the red cable is connected to the positive pole of the donor battery;
- the black cable is connected to the negative pole of the donor battery;
- the other end of the black cable is connected to the “ground” of the car whose battery is discharged (best of all to any metal part screwed to the engine cylinder block).
Check that the cable clamps are securely installed: the terminals of the connected cable should not touch each other, and the positive clamp should not come into contact with ground (body or frame).

And further...

313. When starting the engine with a discharged battery, do not turn on the starter for more than 10 seconds.

The fact is that the terminals and cable heat up due to high current. Between turning on the starter, you should pause for half a minute. During the “lighting” process, do not lean over the battery: you may get burned. After starting, the cable is disconnected in the reverse order to the one in which it was connected.

314.V very coldy take the battery home for the night.

Provided, of course, that the car has an autonomous anti-theft alarm.
And one more little trick: when leaving the car in a parking lot or garage, disconnect the positive terminal of the battery. If a car thief has his eye on your car, he will need extra time to understand why the engine won’t start, and this extra minute will be the thief’s death.
Functions anti-theft device A “mass” switch installed in a place known only to the owner can also do this. Parallel to the contacts of the switch with two thin wires, connect a regular fuse(2A). Now, when the “ground” is turned off, the circuit will be closed through the fuse, and parking lights will burn. However, when the ignition is turned on, the fuse, which is not designed for such a load, will instantly blow and the circuit will be de-energized.

What should be the density and level of electrolyte in a car battery?

Almost all car owners have an idea of ​​what a battery is. However, few know what it requires periodic maintenance and care. IN best case scenario the car owner simply charges the battery from time to time. But this is not enough. It is necessary to periodically check the electrolyte level in the battery banks and monitor its density. Moreover, if the density does not correspond to the norm, it needs to be adjusted. As for density, it is recommended to measure it after charging the battery. And the electrolyte level needs to be checked more often so that it does not drop too much. You especially need to monitor the level in summer time years when the temperature is high under the hood. In this material we will talk in detail about the level and density of electrolyte in a car battery.

In lead-acid car batteries of the WET group, the electrolyte is water solution sulfuric acid (H 2 SO 4). Is there some more AGM batteries, in which fiberglass is impregnated with electrolyte. And one more variety lead-acid batteries─ this is GEL. In them, the electrolyte is transferred to a gel-like state using the addition of silicon oxide. The electrolyte level requires monitoring in WET car batteries. Everything said below is true for these batteries.

Electrolyte for car batteries is sold in auto stores already in diluted form (density 1.29 g/cm 3). In production, sulfuric acid has a higher concentration. It is obtained in 2 stages. First, the concentration is brought to 70%, and then 98%. In this form it is stored until used for various purposes. Car batteries are just a small area where sulfuric acid is used. It is used in various fields National economy. Therefore, different grades of sulfuric acid are produced. They are given below (concentration and density are indicated in parentheses):

• Tower or nitrous (75%, 1.67 g/cm3);
• Contact (92.5─98%, 1.837 g/cm 3);
• Oleum (104.5%, 1.897 g/cm3);
• High percentage oleum (114.6%, 2.002 g/cm3);
• Battery (92─94%, 1.835 g/cm 3).

The role of acid in a car battery

The previous section described what the electrolyte of a car battery consists of. Now let's talk about the role sulfuric acid plays in the operation of the battery. The car battery consists of a plastic case, lead plates different polarity and electrolyte in which they are immersed. The design of the plates provides for the presence of current-carrying lead grids. Depending on the type of battery, various alloying additives may be present in the grating material. The electrolyte in the housing is filled to a certain level, which will be discussed in more detail below.

The grids of the plates with a positive charge are coated with lead dioxide (PbO 2). The plates with a negative charge are coated with lead powder (Pb). Sulfuric acid plays key role in electrochemical processes occurring in the battery. The basic parameters of the battery directly depend on the density of the electrolyte.

Below are the reactions that occur when charging and discharging a car battery.

A reversible reaction occurs at the anode (positive electrode):

PbO 2 + SO 4 2− + 4H + + 2e − ⇒ PbSO 4 + 2H 2 O

At the cathode (negative electrode):

Pb + SO 4 2− − 2e − ⇒ PbSO 4 IN forward direction

The degree of battery charge can be determined by the density of the electrolyte. In a fully charged battery, the density of the banks ranges from 1.127 to 1.300 g/cm 3 . When the above reactions go in the forward direction, the acid in the car battery is consumed and the density of the electrolyte decreases. This process continues until the discharge current passes through the battery. The voltage at the battery terminals is maintained due to the process of diffusion of sulfuric acid to the electrodes from the solution.

Under real operating conditions, the discharge continues until the density decreases to 1.15 g/cm 3 . At this stage, the released lead sulfate completely clogs the surface of the active mass of the plates, and the diffusion process decreases. At this moment it drops sharply.

The density of the electrolyte may change for another reason. In hot weather, the temperature under the hood can rise above 100 degrees Celsius. As a result of heating, the electrolyte level in the battery drops.

The volume decreases mainly due to the evaporation of distilled water. As a result, the density changes and, even worse, the plates are exposed. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor the level and add water.

Density and electrolyte level in a car battery

Electrolyte level monitoring

The motorist is required to periodically monitor the electrolyte level in the battery. How it's done? In general, on the body car batteries min and max marks are applied, which show the minimum and maximum level, respectively.

But using them for control is inconvenient. Most cases are made of black plastic, and it is impossible to see the level inside the battery. Therefore, to check the level, use a glass or plastic tube. You can simply take a transparent ballpoint pen or a straw from a juice box. Open the battery cans. Usually the plugs are made in the form of a single strip or are screwed individually.

Lower the tube into each jar until it touches the plates. After this, pinch the top cut with your finger and remove it.

There should be 10-12 mm of electrolyte left in the tube. This is a normal level. If less, you need to add electrolyte or distilled water. If the level is higher, then pump out the excess. Too much high level not as critical as low, but also undesirable. IN extreme banks, which are closer to the terminals, the level drops faster. If the level is low, you need to understand what to add, electrolyte or distilled water. To find out, you need to measure the density. This will be discussed below.

It is also worth saying a few words about measuring the electrolyte level in. They have no access to banks. Therefore, level control in them is carried out using marks on the body or. It is also called a hydrometer or “eye”.

Electrolyte density control

In the table below you can see the relationship between the degree of charge of the battery and the density of the electrolyte, as well as its freezing temperature.

			Battery charge level, %
Electrolyte density, g/cm. cube (+15 degrees Celsius)	Voltage, V (no load)	Voltage, V (with load 100 A)	Battery charge level, %	Electrolyte freezing temperature, gr. Celsius
1,11	11,7	8,4	0	-7
1,12	11,76	8,54	6	-8
1,13	11,82	8,68	12,56	-9
1,14	11,88	8,84	19	-11
1,15	11,94	9	25	-13
1,16	12	9,14	31	-14
1,17	12,06	9,3	37,5	-16
1,18	12,12	9,46	44	-18
1,19	12,18	9,6	50	-24
1,2	12,24	9,74	56	-27
1,21	12,3	9,9	62,5	-32
1,22	12,36	10,06	69	-37
1,23	12,42	10,2	75	-42
1,24	12,48	10,34	81	-46
1,25	12,54	10,5	87,5	-50
1,26	12,6	10,66	94	-55
1,27	12,66	10,8	100	-60

Like the level, density must be periodically monitored. It's best to do this after fully charged Battery On a fully charged battery, the density should be 1.29 g/cm 3 . In regions where in winter low temperatures, it is recommended to maintain a density of about 1.3 g/cm 3 . To measure density you need a device called a hydrometer. In stores it is sold at a price of 150-200 rubles.

In order to measure the density, lower the hydrometer into the jar and use a bulb to draw electrolyte into the flask. The special float scale inside will show the density. In this way, measure the density in all jars and calculate the average value. It should be approximately 1.29 g/cm3.

If the level is low and the density is higher than normal, then simply add distilled water. It is also sold in car stores and is inexpensive. If the level is normal and the density is high, then take some of the electrolyte from the cans and fill it with water. This operation must be done for each battery cell, since the banks do not communicate with each other.

If the density of the electrolyte on a charged battery is below 1.29 g/cm 3, then it will be more difficult to bring it back to normal. You need to select the solution from the jars using a “pear” or a hydrometer. Instead, fill in fresh electrolyte of the required density. May be required complete replacement electrolyte in a car battery.

It is very important not only to be able to drive a car well, but also to know what the car consists of, how to look after it and properly maintain it. In this article, we will look at a pressing question for batteries: what should the electrolyte level be in a car battery, and what does it affect?

Electrolyte and its role in the battery

So, let's start by defining what is called an electrolyte. It is simply a solution of sulfuric acid and distilled water. Moreover, the presence of any foreign impurities is unacceptable, because then its density will change, which will most negatively affect the operation of the battery. Also very important role his level also plays a role. So, for example, if it is below normal, the internal plates will dry out and the power will decrease.

You should not think that the solution will be to add more liquid than normal, because in this case the acid will corrode the outer part of the unit. In addition, you may encounter problems such as rapid self-discharge of the battery or failure of the voltage regulator. In general, the proper level of electrolyte is the key to the normal functioning of your car, so you should periodically inspect the battery.

How to check the electrolyte level in a battery?

There is an opinion that batteries do not need maintenance, and, in principle, this is so, but keep in mind - we are talking about normal conditions operation. Those who like to travel on their “iron horse” or residents of regions where summers are very hot should still control the above parameter. After all, the electrolyte contains water, and, as you know, it tends to evaporate.

In addition, faulty relay regulators also contribute to intense boiling. The following signs indicate that it is time to check the condition of the battery:

• there is a lot of steam coming out of the filler holes;
• drops of electrolyte can be seen on the battery body;
• The battery itself gets very hot.

Checking the electrolyte level in the battery is carried out different ways. The simplest is visual control. Typically, the battery case containing the liquid is made transparent, and marks are applied to it indicating the maximum and minimum level. And, accordingly, the amount of electrolyte should be within these limits.

The electrolyte level decreases due to evaporation of water or leakage of the composition due to damage to the housing. In the first case, you can correct the condition of the battery yourself.

But sometimes such an opportunity is not available, then you need to act something like this. We take a transparent tube with a diameter of 5 millimeters and lower it into the tank until it stops. Then we tightly clamp the outer hole of the tube with our finger and pull it out. It will contain the liquid being measured. The electrolyte level will correspond to the height of its column in this tube.

The battery has a low electrolyte level - what should the car owner do?

So, the height of the liquid in the tube should be within 10–15 millimeters. If it is more than normal, then the excess should be removed. This is quite simple to do; you just need a rubber bulb or syringe, which can be used to pump out the excess in a matter of seconds. Naturally, after this operation we check again. But if the analysis showed a low electrolyte level, what should you do then?

In this case It is not recommended to fill in a new solution, as this will affect the density and also negatively affect the condition of the battery. After all, only water evaporates, and the concentration of sulfuric acid remains the same. Therefore, distilled water at room temperature should be added. Moreover, using simple liquid from a tap is strictly prohibited, as the battery may be discharged. The electrolyte itself can be refilled only in one case: if its level has decreased due to splashing or leakage.

Hello dear car enthusiasts and readers of the blog site.

Today I will continue the story I started about and extending its service life.

What to do if the electrolyte level is below normal?

If the electrolyte level is below normal, but approximately the same in all sections, it means that water has evaporated from the electrolyte. But there is no need to rush to add water. It is necessary to ensure that there are no signs of leakage to avoid corrosion of the battery mounting location. If everything is in order, add distilled water to the battery. After adding water, do not worry about a decrease in density - the density will be temporarily reduced due to the fact that the water and electrolyte have not yet had time to mix sufficiently. Complete mixing will happen within a few weeks.

If the electrolyte level is below normal and is different in the sections, this may be due to a leak or defective section (leakage due to defective separators).

Adding distilled water is not difficult. It is advisable to do this using aerometer.

But adding electrolyte requires some knowledge.

Firstly, you need to add electrolyte only if it leaks and not otherwise. You need to add electrolyte only to the density that exists directly in this section. It is important to remember that the temperature of the electrolyte being added must correspond to the electrolyte being added in this section. The plates should never be allowed to “float” up. Of course, the plates do not float up; this reduces the electrolyte level. This may lead to short circuit between the plates and, as a result, the battery explodes.

Batteries indicate the level to which the electrolyte must be added. But if this line is not present, then the electrolyte level should be higher than the plates by 15-20 mm.

After bringing the electrolyte level to normal, you need to wipe the battery with a soft cloth. In general, it is recommended to add only distilled water!

For long battery life, do not forget the following rules:

You can turn on the starter for no more than 3-5 seconds, and the breaks between starts should be no less than 10-15 seconds.

When stopped, do not turn on many consumers.

Remember that discharging the battery by more than 25% of its capacity can lead to the inability to start the engine (in winter, the resistance of a cold engine increases three times), or to freezing of the electrolyte. As the battery discharges, the density of the electrolyte decreases. As a result, it may freeze. The more discharged the battery, the more high temperature the electrolyte freezes. For example, with an electrolyte density of 1.11 g/cm3, it will freeze at a temperature of -7 °C, and with a density of 1.27 g/cm3 only at -58 °C.

If your battery's electrolyte has frozen, it is possible to restore the battery's operation. Of course, everything depends on the degree of freezing of the electrolyte. If the battery is not completely frozen or deformed, it can be restored. To do this, the ice must be melted at room temperature, and then the battery must be charged.

Factors affecting battery life:

• Battery usage intensity;
• Serviceability of electrical equipment;
• Regularly checking the density and level of electrolyte;
• Temperature at which the battery is operated;

When using the battery, you must follow the safety rules:

1.You cannot short-circuit the output terminals.

2. Do not seal the battery under any circumstances, and the gas outlets must also not be allowed to become clogged.

3. The battery must not be overheated. +55 is the maximum temperature for its operation.

4. Do not allow the plugs and battery fastenings to unscrew themselves.

5. Do not expose the battery to mechanical stress.

6. Do not remove terminals while the engine is running.

7. Do not use open fire near the battery.

Remember that the shelf life of a battery without recharging depends on its type.

Battery types

1. Low antimony (Sb/Sb) – from 3 to 5 months

2. Hybrid (Ca/Sb) – from 5 – 8 months

3. Calcium (Ca/Ca) – from 8 to 12 months

Follow the simple recommendations given in the article, and your battery will serve you reliably and for a long time.

See you again!

Any car needs maintenance. Even if it just came off the assembly line or is rarely used. For example, the battery needs maintenance. Various troubles can arise with it, for example, electrolyte levels decrease or increase. This substance consists of a special acid and water. The latter component may evaporate, which will cause a decrease in the electrolyte level. And this is fraught with the occurrence.

Method for checking the electrolyte level in the battery.

How much electrolyte should be in the battery?

Not only the electrolyte level plays a role, but also its density. The change in density is carried out due to foreign impurities, which can get inside the battery in various ways. Now we are more interested in the amount of electrolyte in the battery. This indicator directly depends on the battery capacity. Depending on the manufacturer, the amount of electrolyte may vary. These differences are insignificant, but they are still present and must be taken into account. We will look at battery capacities of 55, 60, 62, 65, 75, 90 and 190 Amp/hr. We can cite the following data as average indicators:

• a capacity of 55 A/h accounts for 2.5 liters, the spread can be 100 grams up or down;
• for a battery with a capacity of 60 A/h, 2.7 to 3 liters of electrolyte are required;
• 62 A/h requires electrolyte within 3 liters;
• at 65 A/h approximately 3.5 liters are required;
• a 75 A/h battery holds from 3.7 to 4 liters;
• a 90 A/h battery accounts for from 4.4 to 4.8 liters. electrolyte;
• batteries with a capacity of 190 A/h hold about 10 liters.

Now is the time to learn how to determine the electrolyte level in the battery. This procedure must be carried out periodically so that it does not start, but its performance characteristics did not decline.

How to check electrolyte level

It won't be difficult to do this. Even inexperienced driver will cope with this task. This process differs depending on the type of battery installed in your car. The following options are available for checking the electrolyte level in the battery:

1. In batteries with a scale marked “minimum” and “maximum”, it is easiest to determine the fluid level. In this case, topping up is carried out to the average level between these two marks.
2. If there is no scale, you should look for special “tongues” in the holes. Filling of electrolyte is carried out until the liquid level covers them by 5 mm.
3. In the absence of a scale and “reeds”, it is necessary to lower a glass tube with a diameter of no more than 5 mm into the battery. It will rest against the shield and will not go down further. The upper hole is closed with a finger and the tube is removed. Inside it will be liquid from the battery. Normally it should reach 10-15 mm. This will be the optimal level.

Do not think that the more electrolyte is inside the battery, the better. This is one of the common mistakes made by many motorists. During vehicle operation, the electrolyte may expand, which will lead to an increase in its volume. In this case, the liquid will spill outside the battery, and the contained acid may damage the case. Changing this situation is easy. You just need to remove it with a syringe excess quantity liquid and bring it to normal level. The situation is different with low fluid levels.

Low electrolyte level

No less dangerous is insufficient level liquid inside the battery, therefore every driver should know how to add electrolyte to the battery and be able to apply this knowledge in practice. This situation may occur due to boiling liquid or evaporation of water. Therefore, it is extremely important to constantly check the electrolyte and know how to fill the electrolyte into the car battery. Operating the battery in this condition may result in the following negative consequences:

• at a high concentration of sulfuric acid, which arises as a result of water evaporation, sulfation of the plates will occur much faster;
• bare plates will become very hot while charging the battery, which can lead to their destruction and shedding;
• at insufficient quantity electrolyte, the battery capacity will also be low.

Any of these situations is unpleasant; timely addition of electrolyte to the battery or distilled water can save you.

Features of maintenance-free batteries

On automotive market there is such a thing as maintenance free batteries. Don't let their name fool you - they still need maintenance. These devices have the following set negative features who make a purchase maintenance-free batteries not so successful anymore:

• the measurement process is difficult, in some cases even impossible;
• it is not possible to measure the density of the liquid; even a hydrometer does not help;
• stable and long work battery operation is possible only if there is an impeccable electrical network and a stable level of all output characteristics.

Such batteries are very low consumption water, so its addition is required extremely rarely. If the situation does arise, you will have to work hard to achieve a positive result and not damage the device. You must proceed as follows:

• we remove the sticker from the case, we do not dismantle the cover, since installing it in its original place is an almost impossible task;
• using an awl, we make a hole in the body for each can at the location of the stamping marks, having previously cleaned them of dirt so that they do not get inside;
• using a syringe, pour water inside, always distilled, in small quantities;
• After adding water, you need to return the case to its previous tightness; for this you can use sealant, a soldering iron, special plugs or plugs.

Electrolyte replacement procedure

If there is a slight deviation from the norm to a lesser extent, you need to add distilled water to the battery. Only special water is used for these purposes. Topping up tap water or even cleaned bottled water will render the device unusable. Such situations arise due to the evaporation of the distillate, which leads to an increase in acid concentration. We just add water, charge the battery and the situation returns to normal. It’s a completely different matter if the deviation from the norm is significant. In this case, it will be necessary to measure the density of the liquid. Depending on the results obtained, it will be clear what to do next: dilute the battery electrolyte with water, use regular liquid or concentrated one. To measure density, you can use a hydrometer - a special device that is designed for this purpose.

Normal density is within 1.27 mg/cm3, it should be the same in all jars. Therefore, taking measurements in only one of them will not be enough. We compare the result obtained with the normal indicator, depending on the difference between these two indicators we determine further actions. If the difference is very significant, then you need to replace the electrolyte in the battery at home. This work is not difficult, although troublesome. If you adhere to the principle of work described below, the result will be positive. Before we tell you how to change the electrolyte in a battery, you need to prepare the following tools and consumables:

• a new electrolyte, the density of which will be 1.29 g/cm3, we have already written about the amount of this liquid for different batteries;
• a container into which the old solution from the battery will be drained;
• rubber pear;
• hydrometer.

When everything is prepared, you can get to the point and tell us how to properly fill the electrolyte into the battery. You need to act carefully and not deviate from the work plan. Otherwise, the device may be damaged and it will no longer be recoverable.

1. The battery must not be turned over. As a result of such actions, the plates will be damaged and they may even short out.
2. You need to drain the electrolyte using a blower. The old liquid is removed from each jar in this way.
3. When all the fluid has been downloaded, you can fill in new one. Be sure to keep an eye on the level.
4. Wear rubber gloves and safety glasses when working with electrolyte. Sulfuric acid is a caustic substance that, if it comes into contact with the skin and mucous membranes, causes a burn.

In the end, you need to deal with one more important question: do you need to charge the battery after filling the electrolyte? The charging procedure is necessary in the following cases:

• failure to use the battery for 24 hours after changing the fluid;
• are assumed difficult conditions operation (frequent start-up, cold weather, uneven speed with frequent acceleration);
• The battery was stored for more than a year from the date of its production.

It is important to know not only how to properly drain and fill the electrolyte into the battery, but also to do it safely. The acid contained in battery fluid is caustic and dangerous substance. On contact with skin it causes chemical burns. To prevent such consequences, you must use rubber gloves and goggles. Treat your car with respect, do not skip the frequency of preventative actions, and it will answer you trouble-free operation. requires caution and compliance with safety rules.

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