The secondary car market has become quite popular in recent years, because citizens who wish can purchase a suitable vehicle at an affordable price.
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But at the same time, he will have to be puzzled by finding a decent model in proper condition. Although serviceability is far from the last criterion for choosing movable property.
Before buying, you should definitely find out the history of this vehicle: is it on the balance sheet of the stolen, does it have a black credit history, and so on.
Statistics show that there are a lot of cases of fraud, and buyers need to be especially careful to find out all the nuances about the car of interest earlier.
Nowadays, there are several ways to guarantee accurate information: the traffic police base online or visiting their branch. But the current attackers successfully carry out fraud with numbers.
But the legislation provides other ways to protect citizens, which will be discussed in this article.
How to see the number
VIN code is a unique number that is assigned to the vehicle at the time of its release from the assembly line. As a rule, it is stuffed on the engine and other particularly important parts of the vehicle.
Most traffic police during the re-registration of a car may refuse citizens to carry out this procedure due to a mismatch in the code on different units of the car.
Because this may indicate that the vehicle is being searched. When this fact is established, a criminal case is initiated, and the car is confiscated and taken away for examination.
Competent traffic police officers process the number plate with acid, from which the primary number appears, hidden by the attackers. In this case, re-registration will require the purchase of a new engine.
Although it happens when the traffic police inspectors are not vigilant and do not check all the codes on important parts of the car.
The engine number can be found directly on the machine itself. Before buying, you should definitely inspect the vehicle, check all the data, or better, go to the nearest convenient traffic police department together with the car seller. There, experts will check the motor.
If the VIN number did not show anything, then the vehicle can be bought and operated.
The engine number plate on most vehicles is located on the body of this unit itself, or on its individual parts.
The number is embossed on a thin plate during the production of the car, and soldered onto the engine case. The location of the code is of course different, but most often it is located near the probe hole.
The technical documentation for the car will definitely help you find the numbers you are interested in, so do not be too lazy to find it. Also on the Internet you can find scans of technical passports for the car model you are interested in.
Where can I check the engine for theft
Earlier it was said that law enforcement agencies, namely the traffic police, are helping to check the car for theft.
But these days, motorists have several options for checking: visiting a law enforcement office or using a special database server that provides information about registered cars.
Really
Stationary traffic police posts are equipped with computers and the Internet, which allows inspectors to conduct any search operations within a few seconds on the existing database of statements about the loss of a vehicle.
Of course, this search path is considered less relevant in our time, because it requires a personal visit of a citizen at the traffic police department, and modern people value their time and comfort.
But still, there is a sufficient number of motorists, especially older ones, who prefer the traditional way of visiting MREO.
It is enough for them to tell the authorized inspector the state number of the vehicle and the code from its engine. And after a short time, he can get information.
It is worth noting that traffic police officers often show reluctance in such a check, because there are many who want to, and no one pays extra for this. Therefore, they strongly recommend using virtual servers.
Online
Virtual databases are not new in 2019. There is such a server in the traffic police, with the help of which a free car check for theft is carried out.
Law enforcement agencies opened access to it back in 2014 so that citizens could find out the information they need about a vehicle when buying it.
The server will show the following information:
- Has the machine participated in .
- Whether a specific vehicle has been impounded.
- Is the car listed as missing?
The traffic police website is easy to use - just find the tab you need, open it, enter the VIN code of the car in the appropriate field. Press the test key and wait for the result.
This method of receiving has become quite popular among users, because it does not take much time from citizens, but at the same time it is operational and comfortable.
At the same time, the traffic police database is absolutely safe, because the attackers have not yet found a way to manipulate the server.
The database is regularly updated with up-to-date information, so all kinds of errors are also minimized. That is, any fraud when buying a car can be exposed by this base.
Order
Let us show in detail the algorithm for using such a server. Although the traffic police website has many sections, they are organized in such a way that each user can easily find the information of interest to him.
First you need to download the server from any available gadget with an Internet connection.
After that, a new window is loaded in front of the user, in which it is already necessary to fill in the data, namely, indicate the VIN code of the car, which is indicated on its engine.
To confirm that the search is carried out by a real person, and not a bot, you will need to specify the characters from the image. The check will start from the moment you press the Check Constraints button.
The completed form looks like this: As a rule, the VIN code is not a simple combination, because it is made up of a set of more than ten characters.
As a result of the check, the user can receive one of two response options:
- The car is on the list of missing (stolen).
- There are no restrictions on the vehicle.
In the first cases, in addition to the theft, the server can show other information about the car, for example, if it was fined for the owner's offenses.
The server shows the "passport" data of the car, as well as the features of the case - the verdict and the authority that installed it.
But it will no longer be possible to find out all the details, the reasons for the offense using the database, because such information cannot be in the public domain.
In this database, vehicles are recorded during registration, when the car owner gives law enforcement officers a statement about the loss of his movable property.
For easier identification of the car, he indicates its state number and the VIN code from the engine, which must also match similar plates on other parts of the car.
How to check the engine when buying a car, all novice drivers who decide to buy a used car ask this question. And if I already wrote about checking the body before buying and those who wish can read the article “how not to buy a broken car” about this (the article is located), then this article will describe in detail what to look for when buying a car and checking the second most important (after body) machine unit - engine.
After all, only a serviceable engine will allow you to enjoy trips after buying a car and not waste time, money and nerves on repairing a dead unit.
And so, we raise the hood and the first thing to pay attention to is the cleanliness of the motor. Of course, it was subjected to a special one before the sale, and of course the engine is clean. This happens when selling at the market on most cars. By the way, a too clean motor, even without traces of dust, should alert. Ask the seller to drive you for a while and not only will this allow you to identify extraneous noises, if any, but even after the trip you can inspect the engine again and identify oil leaks.
Before starting the engine, raise the hood and pay attention to whether the engine is cold or not (feel it) and if the engine is really cold and at the same time it starts easily in the future, then this is already a reason to continue looking at the car. After all, often sellers in the bazaar periodically warm up the engine so that the launch seems the easiest for the buyer.
It does not hurt to ask the seller to sharply increase the speed (turn on the gas), and bring a white sheet of paper to the exhaust pipe yourself. If oil stains are found on a sheet of paper after gassing, then most likely this engine has problems with the piston group (piston rings are worn out).
If the color of the smoke confirms that something is wrong with the engine, the color of soot on the spark plug will also help to make sure the exact diagnosis, of course, if the engine is gasoline, not diesel. Remove the spark plug (better not one) and inspect its electrodes and central insulator. And how to determine the condition of the motor by the color of soot on the candle is described in detail.
If the engine is diesel, then it is desirable to determine its condition by measuring the compression. After all, the compression of a diesel engine plays a huge role not only for engine power, but is also important for reliable starting, especially in the cold season (more on this). And if you measure the compression and make sure that it is in order, then you can safely buy a car with such an engine. If the compression is not normal, then look for another car.
As for checking the oil with a dipstick, most sellers change the oil fresh before selling and its color is usually normal. However, it is still worth pulling out the dipstick and paying attention to whether there is any coolant in the oil. If an emulsion is visible on the dipstick, then the coolant has entered the oil and most likely something is wrong with the tightness of the block gasket.
Or something is wrong with the plane of the head (this will also confirm the release of air bubbles in the expansion tank when the engine is running). You can read what liquid can get into the oil, but it’s better to refuse such a machine.
It also does not hurt to open the air filter cover and inspect the inside of the intake silencer (air filter housing). If there are no signs of engine oil inside, then the engine is in order.
Remove the oil filler cap (in the valve cover) and inspect the internal parts of the valve train with a flashlight. They should not have a thick black coating, as in the photo on the left, which indicates an untimely oil change, in which engine parts are usually worn out ahead of time. Yes, and the oil channels can be partially clogged.
If you find a running engine with timing parts covered with a layer of deposits as in the photo, I advise you to abandon such a car.
Having unscrewed the oil filler cap from the valve cover, run the edge of a coin along the inner wall of the oil filler neck - find corrosion under the oil layer, it is possible that the motor has overheated. Do not rush to return the plug to its place, start the engine and watch the neck. The release of oil and gases from the oil filler neck during engine operation indicates that something is wrong with the crankcase ventilation system, and the piston rings are most likely worn out. It is desirable to refuse such a machine.
You can not remove the oil filler cap, but remove the hose from the fitting in the valve cover. It is the same here, neither gases nor oil should come out of the fitting of the crankcase ventilation hose when the engine is running.
When the engine is running, pay attention to the sound of work, there should be no metallic knocks, and the motor should run smoothly and without interruption (the speed should not float). When even the slightest load on the generator is turned on, for example, the electric fan of the cooling system turns on, the engine speed should not change and the engine should run just as smoothly when the fan and other consumers of electrical energy are turned on.
The fact that the engine does not react (does not change speed) to the generator loaded by consumers indicates its ideal condition and good power.
Each car buyer always inspects it before buying, checks the mechanisms, but the main thing is to check the engine, the heart of the car. Consider options and methods of verification, important points.
The content of the article:
There comes a moment in the life of every car enthusiast when he or she has finally saved up enough money for such a desired and long-awaited movable property. When it comes to a used car, special attention must be paid to the condition of the engine and its operation. This is all due to the fact that the engine of the car is its “heart”, and when a car is purchased, the buyer is not given any guarantee that everything in it is in good order and is new, as if only after a major overhaul.Therefore, in order not to fall into the “hook of beautiful words” about the car and its engine that is being purchased, it is best for the motorist to make sure that all systems and the engine are in good condition in the first place.
Preparatory stage in the inspection of the engine
In order to make sure that the car and its engine are in good condition, it is not necessary to judge everything by its appearance, that is, first of all, it is not advisable to trust the beautiful, repaired and polished car body. The movement of the car depends on the engine and its operation. After its inspection and testing, you can make sure you buy a car, or, conversely, refuse it.In the event that the car body does not raise any suspicions after a thorough inspection for the presence of large dents, such as after serious accidents or small ones, then you can gradually move on to inspecting the condition of the engine and its degree of wear. Immediately before the transaction itself, it is important to obtain as accurate information as possible about the condition of the unit and all its components. But this does not mean that other elements should not be taken into account.
In order to be one hundred percent sure that all elements (including the engine) are in good condition, it is best to carry out a complete diagnosis of the machine and its engine in specialized service centers. The buyer and the future owner in one person can choose such a service center on their own, relying on their experience, or on the advice of acquaintances and trusted people, but not at the choice of the seller of the car.
In general, it is recommended to pre-inspect the car. All this is done in order to see all the main components of his work, assess their condition, and also think about the following questions: do you need full or partial paid diagnostics in a specialized service center to check the engine? and is it worth buying this or that car at all, judging by the condition of the engine and other elements?Before you go to the first "bride" of the car and its engine, you need to make sure that several tools are "at hand" during the inspection. They will help to better understand the condition of the engine and related elements. So, for this you will need: a candle key; flashlight; mirror; a small piece of clean, slightly damp cloth (in case you need to wipe your hands from dirt); gloves, which generally can prevent contamination of hands, as well as various physical injuries.
It is recommended to start inspecting the car engine when it is cold. In this condition, you can see the start of a cold engine, and in parallel it will be possible to assess the technical condition of the machine.
Many different sellers-owners of cars or ordinary traders are trying to get rid of the unnecessary and as soon as possible, therefore they are in every possible way capable of “covering” any shortcomings in the operation of the car and its engine. Here the same problem - traders almost always warm up the engine before it is examined by a potential buyer. Such warming up of the unit serves as a relief for its “wonderful” start-up.When a potential buyer had to deal with such a case when the seller warmed up the engine, then it is already worth thinking about it. And even without diagnostics and examination, it will become clear that something is wrong here. But, if the entire inspection began with a cold state of the engine, then such a car can win over a buyer.
Important points during the check
As a rule, it is possible to judge the working condition of the engine (or vice versa) when it has a normal working appearance, that is, it is not cleaned to a perfect shine, but rather moderately dirty. It is also important for a motorist to pay attention to the condition of the bolts and their fastening. When scratches from a screwdriver are clearly visible, this first of all indicates that the engine has been repaired. And here it is important to find out from the seller about these repair actions and what was repaired or replaced there.Do not forget about the oil in the car engine and check it using a special dipstick. The oil has a light color - this is the first sign of a recent change. In such cases, you need to ask the seller the reason for replacing it.
But when the oil has a slightly dull color, then this is not a reason for excitement. It should simply be replaced, since it is already "obsolete". If the oil foams and turns white, then you need to turn around and move away from this car, since this is the first signal that water has entered the engine or that it simply succumbed to overheating.
And, perhaps, the last piece of advice here would be to inspect the expansion tank of the engine cooling system. Its excellent indicators are - the normal state of the smell and color of the liquid and when the level is between the minimum and maximum marks.Engine testing
As soon as the engine has been outwardly inspected by the buyer, then you can smoothly proceed to testing it, or in other words, to checking its operation. Here it is advisable to ask the seller to start the car. In the meantime, the buyer-car enthusiast should go to the muffler of the car and watch the smoke coming out of it for a while. If bluish smoke is clearly visible, then this is the first sign that the engine needs to be overhauled. This rule applies to both gasoline and diesel units.Do not worry if black smoke was noticed from the muffler of the car. For this you can bring down the price a little. And the whole reason is that the fuel supply or the ignition systems were not adjusted as they should.
White smoke indicates that there is condensation in this system. It doesn't really affect the performance of the car. It is much worse when liquid flows out at the end of the cut of the car muffler pipe. This problem is quite common in winter. But, when such “symptoms” of a car are observed in the summer, this first of all indicates that the gasket has burned out, or that the cylinder block cover has been damaged.
When black smoke comes from the muffler of a car, despite the fact that it has been idle for quite a long time without normal working out of the engine and all other parts, then such a phenomenon is short-term. Also, the color of the smoke may be affected by incorrect adjustment of the carburetor or injection system, depending on the model of the car.If too much carbon deposits appear on the pistons, then this is the first signal that either the fuel supply system has been adjusted improperly, or the car has been working under heavy load at low revs for a long time. Black smoke is normal for diesel engines, but only when idling. When the engine starts at medium speed, this color should be absent.
In order to correct these shortcomings in the operation of the engine and other elements, a lot of effort and financial costs will not be required. But here the question arises as to whether the motorist needs such a “hemorrhoid” and whether he or she can handle it, or is it better to move on to looking for another vehicle. As a rule, only qualified specialists and experienced employees of a service station can answer all questions of interest during a car engine check.
Trouble with the operation of the engine can be avoided. That is why it is recommended that the buyer carefully check the car even before the completion of the transaction. After all, when purchasing a car, even a used one, the buyer expects that from the first day he will serve him without failure, and not visit car repairmen every day with one problem or another, including a problem with the engine.
Video inspection of the car engine:
When purchasing a used car for yourself, you must be very scrupulous about its assessment before buying at the inspection stage. The main feature of a used car is that the previous owner does not bear any warranty obligations to the buyer. Therefore, it is recommended that at the stage preceding the acquisition of the car, as much as possible to identify all possible shortcomings so that they do not make themselves felt at the moment when it will already be your property. As a rule, the first thing the buyer examines is how the car looks on the outside, in terms of touch-ups, etc. But without a well-functioning engine, a beautiful body has no special value at all. So, you should definitely look under the hood of the car you are buying.
How to properly check the engine when buying a car
The very first and, perhaps, the main thing is not a word about the fact that you have little understanding of car engines. It is necessary either to say nothing at all and mysteriously remain silent with a smart face, or to pretend to be a hardened motorist who has seen so many engines in his lifetime that he himself can already design breakthrough novelties blindfolded. Speak measuredly, clearly, be calm. Never express joy when you hear something you expected. You need to put on the so-called imperturbable mask, absolutely without emotions.
Analyze all seller responses. If he starts to “pour water” or evade the answer, then something is clearly wrong, and in the past there is some kind of “sin” regarding this car. Pay attention to the seller's reaction when you inspect the car. Does he allow you to watch wherever you please, or in some places he tries to distract you and transfer you to another topic.
What to look for in an engine
To inspect the power unit of the purchased car, you will need:
- work gloves;
Clean rags;
White list.
So, start looking around.
1. External examination
Open the hood of the car and look around the entire engine compartment. Look for oil stains and drips - these are the first signs of an engine malfunction. Even small signs in the future can turn into big oil leak problems for you. Pay special attention to the areas around and distributor.
The causes of leaks can be hidden in leaky gaskets, rubber seals and loose hose clamps. Another cause of oil leaks is a poorly fitting cylinder head cover. Take a good look at the joint and make sure it is free of oil and sealant. Even if the seller brought the engine back to normal in advance, he could still miss something. Feel free to expose! For example, traces on the hood from the inside may indicate an engine malfunction, inspect it more closely. If there are scratches on the bolts and nuts, even minor ones, it means that someone has already opened the motor, and this is clearly not without reason. But it's good if you were notified that the engine was scheduled to be sorted out recently.
2. Check the condition of the engine oil and antifreeze
Check the oil with a dipstick, antifreeze - simply by unscrewing the cap of the expansion tank or radiator. The oil should be transparent, without visible impurities and small chips, not too viscous and not exude incomprehensible odors. There should be no extraneous plaque or streaks on the dipstick.. Bubbles in the oil are the first sign of a leak, and this is a very serious problem. In the case of coolant, the presence of air in it means that it is leaking directly into the engine. And there are two reasons for this: either the gasket leaked, or the head of the block cracked, and this is completely unacceptable. Antifreeze is a corrosive liquid and can damage piston rings, which will subsequently cause irreparable damage to the entire engine.
3. Oil filler cap
Inspect the cover outside and inside. Under it or on the neck itself there should be no foam or white coating. The presence of the latter clearly indicates that antifreeze has entered the engine. And what will happen to the engine in the future, we have already said in the second paragraph.
4. Candles and rubber elements
Hoses and seals must not be damaged, even small cracks are unacceptable. If it is dirty and dusty under the hood, put on gloves, do not be lazy, and use a rag to wipe all the nodes and inspect them. Old soot can hide many defects. If possible, unscrew a couple of candles, you can learn a lot from their appearance. If they are in order, then they will have a thin layer of light grayish or yellowish coating. Slight wear of the electrode is acceptable. If a crack appears on the surface of at least one candle, then the engine will work with a knock. If abundant light deposits appeared on the candles, the oil was chosen incorrectly.
If the center electrode of the spark plug is melted, this can indicate many problems, ranging from early ignition and low-quality fuel to problems with the valves and ignition distributor. The formation of a hard build-up, like a glaze, which consists of soot, or severe wear of the electrodes means that the oil or fuel used was with numerous additives. Oily ones serve as an indicator of excess oil in the lubrication system and serious wear on piston rings, cylinders and valve guides. Soot on them indicates a poor formation of an air-fuel mixture or a clogged air filter that needs to be replaced.
Checking the engine in operation
1. Start the engine and rev a little on the spot
when starting, it should not rattle and make other extraneous sounds. The engine should start on the first try, no matter how warm it is and what weather conditions are “overboard”. It should work without interruption, absolutely smoothly. If the motor began to pull, extraneous vibrations are observed, the rhythm goes astray, there is only one conclusion - the engine is troit. So, one of the cylinders stopped working. The reason may lie in a faulty ignition system, poor performance of one of the candles, an over-enriched fuel mixture, or a burned-out piston. In any case, discuss this problem with the seller. Estimate how much the repair will cost, and knock off a couple of times more for the car.
2. Check instrument readings
When the engine is running warm, the arrows of the temperature and oil pressure sensors should be within normal limits, ideally in the middle position.
3. What kind of smoke comes out of the exhaust?
If, when starting the power unit, abundant white smoke came out of the pipe, but soon completely disappeared, then there is absolutely no need to worry: this is most likely a simple condensate. If the smoke does not stop coming out of the pipe, then the smell and color can quickly diagnose the problem. If the smoke is white or has a slight bluish tint, which quickly dissipates in the air, leaving a sweet smell, this means that there is antifreeze in the car's engine cylinders.
Clearly blue or gray smoke, which may also have a whitish tint, hanging in the air with a light lilac or gray haze, means that oil is leaking into the combustion chamber. If the car “shines” with such surprises, it’s better not to risk turning a blind eye to it, because repairs can be very expensive for you. And, finally, it signals that the air-fuel mixture burns inefficiently. The reasons for this are several malfunctions: coking of air jets, depressurization, malfunctions in the lambda probe and. The consequences in this case are such that the engine wears out much faster, and exhaust toxicity becomes prohibitive.
4. Test drive
If the car you like passed all the above tests with a bang, then it remains only to ride it. The first mistake that used car buyers make at this stage is a long one. Often they are limited to a short trip around the bazaar, but this is not enough to fully understand what kind of car they drive. If the car engine has exceeded all your expectations in a short distance, ask the seller to drive a few more kilometers. Agree that you compensate for the expense and time costs.
It’s better to check now than to waste later on malfunctions that were not detected in time, puzzling over the question of where to find a good minder cheaper. Focus on the sound of the engine, do not turn on the music and anything that can drown it out. Listen to the engine with the windows open and closed, accelerate, experiment with hard accelerations and observe the behavior of the car. Accelerate to 100 km / h or more, if traffic rules allow, and understand if there are any vibrations and jerks, how the engine sounds, if it makes extraneous noises, knocks and other annoying and abnormal things.
5. Re-diagnosis of the motor
At the end of the trial test drive, look under the hood again and check if there are any smudges and if everything remains as it was before the race. If after a trip you were embarrassed by some hint of leakage, but the engine is clean and looks good, most likely this is just the owner’s move to sell the car faster - he washed the engine. But if other points do not bother you, then this place of oil leakage is nothing terrible, and you can safely buy a car for a small discount.
If the engine kicked like an unbridled stallion during the journey, and then spat out a lot of oil streaks, then refuse to buy such a car. Pay the cost of gas and keep looking, because this car is not for you. This car will be purchased by someone who likes to repair, not drive.
And let's summarize. If all of the above is not enough for you, or you doubt your strengths and capabilities, take a person who understands with you or go to a service station and order a comprehensive check of the engine. Thus, you will protect yourself and minimize the likelihood of buying a car with a "finished engine".
Undoubtedly, for any motorist, even the smallest breakdown causes stress and resentment, not to mention if the engine has undergone a breakdown. With severe wear of the components and mechanisms of the engine, it appears first of all: weak traction, increased fuel and lubricant consumption, increased smoke in the exhaust system and, as a result, coking of parts.
The choice of solutions in such a situation is not great, either to overhaul the motor or buy a used engine (contract). Only a few are counting on the purchase of a completely new power unit, and therefore we will not even touch this topic.
Is it possible to check the removed engine
In order to carry out a complete and high-quality diagnosis of the motor, it must of course be installed in the car. But what if there is no such possibility. Do not install every contract engine just to check its serviceability.
For this case, we, together with engineers and specialists in the operation and repair of vehicles, have prepared the most basic and effective troubleshooting techniques for a removed engine. Many of them have been known to you for a long time, and some will be learned for the first time. But in any case, it should be adequately and judiciously understood that in such a situation, it is of course not possible to check the engine for 100%, but it is only possible to minimize the risks when buying a used engine.
At the very beginning, of course, I would like to focus your attention on the appearance of the contract engine. The seller, very often by phone, assures that his "goods" have wound less than 100 thousand kilometers, and sometimes less than 50. It is immediately worth noting the fact that up to 70-80 thousand kilometers, any new engine rarely has smudges and fogging on block, from under the gaskets and seals. So if you saw the engine covered in oil, and the seller assures that the mileage is only 60 thousand, do not believe it. (but be careful, the product can be washed and grated) Further, for verification, it is recommended to take a small set of wrenches and gloves with you. In cases where the seller does not allow you to unscrew something and see, it is probably better to refuse. But here, as they say, everyone has their own head ... Diagnostics will take no more than half an hour, and wasted money cannot be earned in 30 minutes.
What does soot on candles say
To check the correct operation of the main engine systems, it is recommended to unscrew all spark plugs from the candle wells. Carefully inspect the color of the electrodes on the candles. On a serviceable engine, they should all be the same color. It is not allowed if one of the electrodes is a candle, has a clearly different color. Today, most gas stations add various additives and components to gasoline, which, in turn, burning in the cylinder chambers, can create plaque on candles of absolutely any color. So it doesn't make sense to figure it out. The main rule here is that there is no black coating on the candles, with an oily film or even drops. Often the cause of these deposits is not the correct operation of the valve stem seals. The important thing is that their failure is a sign of either a high mileage or poor quality service. As a rule, their replacement is required with a run of 200-250 thousand kilometers.
Inspection of cylinders and manifolds
Look through the spark plug holes into the cylinders, shine a flashlight if necessary. If a timing belt (chain) is installed, turn the engine crankshaft, thereby making sure that the piston group is intact. Screw the spark plugs into their mounting locations, then turn the crankshaft a couple more revolutions, while a characteristic and rhythmic load on the cycles should be felt.
If the timing belt or timing chain is removed from the engine, it is strictly forbidden to do so!!!
Carefully inspect the holes for the intake and exhaust manifolds. Here you need to look first of all, the operation of the valves of the cylinder head. By rotating the crankshaft, check the integrity and operability of the valve actuators. If the design of the engine allows you to reach the valve, then check it for play in the guide sleeve. To avoid injury, it is better to do this with a small pliers or hook. A strong backlash in the valve guides (more than 1 mm) usually appears with a run of more than 200 thousand kilometers. Only those valves that are in the maximum open position can be checked. If you find a large play in the valve guides, it is better to immediately abandon the engine.
Unscrew the oil filler cap
For a clearer picture of how the engine worked before it was dismantled, unscrew the oil filler neck and look at it from the back. With a fresh motor, with timely and high-quality service, the cover should be clean and there should not be any deposits. Traces of black oily deposits with clots are the result of operating the machine without a timely oil change. In the event that there is foam or an emulsion with the color “coffee with milk” on the back of the cover, then the coolant gets into the oil and the cylinder head gasket is most likely broken. Also inspect through the neck opening, the condition of the timing. Just like with the lid, there should be no deposits and soot inside, ideally everything should be shiny and wrapped in yellow or yellow-black oil. Seeing "saline" deposits, it is better to immediately abandon the engine.
Checking play in the crankshaft
This procedure can only be done with the timing belt (chain) removed or loosened. Take the crankshaft with your hand, it is more convenient to do this from the timing drive side. Shake the shaft in 2 planes. Only a slight play in the horizontal plane is considered normal. In the event that there is vertical play, it is better to refuse this engine, since this is a direct sign of wear on the crankshaft bearings, which directly appears at runs from 250 thousand kilometers.
