Moped voltage regulator delta check. Scooter circuit diagram

Voltage regulator or as it is also called a relay-regulator. This part of electrical equipment is very important and it is on it that the durability of the battery and other electrical appliances depends. The relay performs the function of a voltage stabilizer at the level that the generator produces, then this voltage goes to all the scooter devices that use it.

If the voltage regulator was faulty or absent on the scooter, then the voltage would jump and all devices would quickly burn out. The regulator keeps the voltage within certain limits, preventing it from rising and falling too much, usually within 12-14.5 volts. For example, incandescent lamps suffer significantly even from a voltage increase of 2 volts.

The generator can also produce 35 volts, and the regulator drops this voltage to 12 volts. To charge the scooter battery, you need direct current, it is the regulator that turns the alternating current into direct current. Therefore, the state of the scooter voltage regulator must be watched very carefully so as not to cause trouble.
One way to understand that the relay-regulator has failed is that the light bulbs burn out quickly. They themselves have enough high resource and durability but at the same time sensitive to voltage drops.
By the way, when starting the scooter from the starter, there is a strong voltage surge that can also harm, but the regulator on the scooter corrects this situation again.

Different manufacturers of scooters put different relay-regulators, since each model needs an individual one. Depending on the voltage regulator circuit, the connectors may also differ.

Relay voltage regulator on Chinese scooter differs from Japanese even in the number of terminals. So, in Chinese there are 5 (dad), and in Japanese there are only 4.

But general principle the operation of the voltage regulator in all is almost the same and performs the role of switching the voltage using a powerful thyristor, turning the voltage on and off from the generator.

Regulator diagram on a Japanese scooter:

How to check scooter voltage regulator?

To check, you need to stock up on a multimeter that has a voltmeter function. It is needed to measure the voltage at the output of the voltage regulator.

To measure the voltage, you first need to get to your destination. To do this, you need to remove the front fairing. As a rule, it is screwed on with several nuts and rivets (for example, on Honda dio 3 nuts and 4 rivets). Remove the fairing carefully, it is easy to damage. There we need to find small box which has 4 exits (some scooters have 5 exits). The outputs have the following colors: green , red , yellow and white .

In order to measure the voltage, you need the scooter to first stabilize in operation, that is idling should be stable. You can put it on the bandwagon, start it and wait for stabilization. If, or does not hold idle, then read the article:. If all is well, then you need to measure the voltage between the red and green wires. Our measuring device set to 20V, constant voltage measurement mode. If the voltage is within 14.6 - 14.8 then this normal voltage relay-regulator. If the regulator is faulty, then this value can fluctuate even by 5V or more in any direction. If the value is less than 14.5V, or exceeds 15V, then the regulator is faulty.

Now you need to check the voltage supplied to the lighting. Since an alternating voltage is supplied there, we also set our multimeter to measure an alternating voltage of 20V. To measure the voltage supplied to the lighting, you need to measure it between the green and yellow wires. As a rule, the norm for lighting is the voltage in 12 volt, most incandescent bulbs are designed for just such a voltage. + - 0.5 volts is allowed. Do not forget that the scooter is idling and if you add speed, the voltage will rise, but it is not even permissible for the voltage on the regulator to rise to 13+ volts. If the regulator is faulty, the voltage may rise higher. For example, up to 15-16V, but even 13 volts of voltage is harmful for incandescent bulbs. The regulator is clearly defective. Especially considering that this is at idle speed of the engine.

If you see that the voltage regulator is not working, then you need to urgently replace it. Otherwise, very soon other devices will be added to it that simply could not withstand the high voltage.

A 4t scooter voltage regulator relay can be bought for 500 rubles.

If you do not understand what and how to check, or have additional questions, you can ask them in the comments or find the answer in the video:

Do-it-yourself voltage regulator for a scooter

You can make a relay-regulator with your own hands, this requires a little knowledge and a scooter voltage regulator circuit. We will make a voltage regulator for a Chinese scooter with our own hands. Most cheap option, is to take the shunt voltage regulator. The nuance is that for good work you need to disassemble the generator and remove the wire from the ground with a separate wire.

It was decided to make a voltage regulator with your own hands for the reason that Chinese counterparts so lousy that there are simply no words. We look at the photo diagram of the Chinese voltage regulator:

We will assemble a single-phase generator according to this scheme:

In order to make a relay-regulator, you must first disassemble the generator and remove the stator from the engine. Now we see this picture:

The photo shows the mass that needs to be soldered, and we need to solder a separate wire to the winding to it. Then it needs to be brought outside. It is this wire that will be one end of the winding. The other end is a white wire.

Just like that, without minimal knowledge in electronics, at least at the level of the school curriculum (like mine) and the simplest multimeter tester, you won’t be able to check the generator, don’t even dream of it. Before taking on similar work, you should at least be able to use a tester and understand that the current can be alternating or constant, know what an electrical impulse is and what resistance is. Do you know all this? Did you have a tester in your hands? If so, then let's not delay.

Checking the generator's performance - you should start with measuring the voltage, which, in fact, the generator must generate and transmit via wires to consumers. We look where the wiring harness from the generator comes out of the engine - we move along it until we reach the connector with which the generator is connected to onboard network scooter.

On the vast majority of scooters, the alternator connector looks something like the picture. IN common connector, there is one plug and two wires that are connected to the on-board network of the scooter through round terminals.

The plug combines the connectors of the two main windings of the generator: The working winding (yellow wire), which ensures the operation of the headlight, turn signals, backlight and other consumers. And the control winding (white wire), the control winding provides voltage control in the main winding of the generator. That is, when the voltage in the working winding of the generator rises above the specified limits, the voltage regulator relay supplies current to the control winding of the generator, due to which the voltage in the working winding of the generator drops to a predetermined limit. When the voltage drops, the reverse process occurs.

IN given generator the main windings are wound with thick copper wire on six coils.

The third winding of the generator, which is commonly called high-voltage or induction, and the magnetic induction sensor of the generator, are connected to the on-board network of the scooter through round terminals.

The high-voltage winding of the generator provides the generation of high alternating voltage (the voltage in this winding can reach 160 V or more), which directly enters the switch where it is rectified, then accumulates in the capacitor and at a certain moment is supplied to the ignition coil in the form of a pulse.

In this generator high voltage winding wound with thin copper wire on two coils. The coils of the high-voltage winding are carefully insulated on the outside.

There are generators in which the high-voltage winding is wound on only one coil.

A small clarification: ignition systems in which a DC CDI type switch is installed, the high-voltage winding does not participate in the formation of a spark charge on the spark plug, so there is no point in checking it. Scooter manufacturers install a generator with a high voltage winding, but do not use it (meaning ignition systems with a DC CDI switch). It is simply wound on the generator and that's it. I will say more: due to the fact that the winding is not loaded with anything during the operation of the generator, over time it simply burns out.

An example of a generator, on two coils of which a high-voltage winding is wound as if not involved in the work. I checked this winding - the tester showed an open circuit, which confirms the above.

The resistance of the inducing winding of the generator is always greater than that of the other windings. The wire coming from the inducing winding of the generator is almost always red-black.

The magneto-induction sensor, when a special ledge on the generator rotor passes by, generates an alternating pulse that opens the thermistor through which the switch capacitor is discharged to the ignition coil.

Sensor in person

Ledge on the generator rotor

The wire coming from the magnetic induction sensor almost always has a white-blue color.

A small educational program: Merchants and collective farm tusks, a magnetic induction generator sensor, CDI ignition systems - they call it a Hall sensor. My relatives ... Maybe that's enough already? .. Where does this illiteracy come from? .. The magnetic induction sensor of the generator, the CDI ignition system, namely, this system is discussed in this article - has nothing to do with the hall sensor! And do not listen to these traders and "gurus" who claim otherwise...

Actually the check itself

Switch the tester to measurement mode alternating current(ACV) for the range of 200 V and no less. Remember that the voltage of the inducing winding can reach 160 V or more, so the measuring range of the inducing winding voltage must be at least 200 V.

We disconnect the plug and the round terminals of the main harness - we connect one tester probe to ground, the other is connected to the terminal (black-red wire) of the inducing winding of the generator. We turn on the ignition, and turn the engine with a starter. A fully serviceable inducing winding should give approximately the following values.

The pulse generated by the sensor is very weak, so we switch the tester to the ACV measurement mode in the 2 V range. Measuring the pulse from the sensor in a higher range may not give a result, since the tester may simply not catch it. For this purpose, use only a tester with a range in AC voltage measurement mode of not more than 2 V.

We do everything exactly as in the first example. The pulse from the sensor should give approximately the same values.

By analogy with the first two examples, we measure the voltage in the working winding and the control winding. We put the tester in the mode of measuring alternating voltage (ACV) in the range of 200 V and carry out the measurement.

Well, what did you measure? .. Do all windings generate current? Or not all? .. If any winding does not produce current, then if you want it or not, you will have to check it in more detail. But if the windings generate a current of about the same magnitude as in the pictures, then this means that your generator is in in perfect order. Something like this…

Deep Check

We lay the generator so that the conclusions of the generator windings are available to you. We determine the ends of the conclusions of all the windings of the generator. Finding the ends of the windings is very simple: we look at the color of the wire that is soldered to the terminal block and determine what kind of winding it is.

I've marked the ends of the windings with arrows here. I selected the arrows by color in accordance with the color of the wires soldered to the terminal block. The green arrow marks the terminal block on which the ends of all windings are soldered - this is the ground terminal block.

We switch the tester to the dialing mode, take any wire from the common harness, connect any tester probe to this wire, with the second probe we touch the terminal block to which this wire is soldered. The tester must issue sound signal and show zero resistance.

If the tester is “silent”, shows numbers instead of zeros, then this means that somewhere there is a wire break or bad contact between terminal and wire. Inspect the wire carefully for a break and, if necessary, replace it with a new one. The remaining wires, including the sensor wire, are checked exactly according to the same principle.

After checking the wires, we proceed to check the generator windings for an open circuit and an interturn circuit. We switch the tester to the continuity mode, touch the generator case with any probe of the tester, touch the end of the wire of any winding or terminal block with the second probe.

The high-voltage winding in the continuity mode should show approximately the same resistance value. If the high-voltage winding did not show resistance or showed but little resistance, then this means that somewhere there is an internal open circuit or an interturn short circuit. You understand that such a malfunction is not “treated”.

When checking the remaining windings, the tester should emit a beep, the resistance of the working windings is very small, so most likely you will see only zeros on the tester display. If the tester did not emit a signal, then this means that somewhere there is an internal break. Such a malfunction cannot be "treated".

We put the tester in the continuity mode, touch the sensor body with any probe, touch the sensor wire or the terminal on the body to which the wire is soldered with the second probe. The resistance of the sensor winding should be approximately within these limits. If there is little or no resistance, then replace the sensor with a new one.

The relay on the scooter, or rather the relay-regulator, is small, but important detail of all electrical equipment and the condition and durability depend on it battery t not only. This article will describe in detail the main purpose of the scooter relay, how it is connected to the electrical wiring of most mopeds, how to check its serviceability and other nuances.

The scooter regulator relay (or the second name is the voltage regulator) is an important and accurate device that stabilizes the voltage on right level, which the generator produces, for further distribution to consumers (headlight, signal, dimensions, turns, instruments, bulbs and indicators dashboard and etc.). But the main consumer, the durability and performance of which depends on the relay-regulator, is of course.

Simply put, the relay regulator stabilizes and does not allow the voltage from the generator to rise or fall more or less than normal (within 12 - 14.5 volts, depending on the speed), that is, it does not allow the on-board voltage nets to go beyond the norm and spoil consumers, which are rated at 12 volts. So, for example, with an increase in the on-board voltage by only two volts, the life of the moped's incandescent lamps is halved.

In addition, the relay-regulator of any scooter lowers the voltage from the generator from 30-35 volts (to maximum speed) to 12-14.5 volts, this device also rectifies the alternating current from the generator into a direct current, which is required to charge the battery. And of course, if it were not for the relay-regulator, the battery and other devices would fail.

And if you do not connect the relay to the scooter (or the relay-regulator fails), then the bulbs and other devices of the moped will start to burn out. In general, the resource of an incandescent lamp on any serviceable moped is quite large, and the reason for the failure and frequent replacement lamps - this is of course a malfunction, or the absence of a relay-regulator.

Also, the relay-regulator on many scooters takes over all power surges that occur when the starter button, signal, headlights, ignition switch, signal and other consumers are turned on. And if it were not for the relay, then the contacts of the ignition switch and the switches in the scooter remotes would very quickly fail due to their overheating.

The relay itself has a developed aluminum radiator that covers the device from all sides. The radiator is in contact with the plane of a powerful thyristor, which in right moment(when the voltage drops) turns on or off - when the voltage rises, the relay contacts and thus switches at the right time desired group contacts.

For different models scooters and scooters, each manufacturer selects the relay-regulator individually, counting it on consumers and the electrical circuit of their mopeds. At different manufacturers terminal blocks (connectors) may vary, depending on the electrical circuit of different mopeds.

On mopeds Chinese manufacturers The relay regulator has five "male" terminals in the terminal block, and on most scooters Japanese manufacturers There are only four terminals in the relay block. The Chinese (for example, such as "Viper Delta" or "Viper Activ" and others), in addition to having more terminals, also have a case with a radiator slightly larger than the Japanese (see photo).

But the device and the basic principle of operation for all relay-regulators are almost the same - this is voltage switching using a powerful thyristor - turning off the voltage from the generator when the voltage rises above the norm, and turning it on when the voltage drops.

Well, just as when the voltage on the battery pole pins drops, the relay-regulator turns on the circuit and a rectified voltage goes to the battery for charging, and after the battery voltage (and, accordingly, the capacity) returns to normal, the relay immediately turns off the circuit supplying voltage battery charge.

If the generator is working properly, but your scooter's battery is not charging, and lamps and other consumers are constantly burning out, then you should definitely check the voltage coming to the consumers. And if the voltage is higher or lower than normal, then in this case the voltage regulator should be checked and if it is faulty, then the relay on the scooter should be replaced.

I will write how to check the relay-regulator itself a little later, but first I will write how to check whether the voltage supplied to the consumers of your scooter is normal.

How to check the voltage coming to the consumers of the scooter.

To check, we need a voltmeter that measures voltage in the range from 0 to 20 volts. It is best to use a multimeter (tester), which is sold in almost any electrical goods store. And how to choose it. Setting the voltage tester direct current from 0 to 20 volts, probes should be prepared - it is better to use wires not with probes, but with crocodile clips.

To check, it is enough to connect the clamps to the battery terminals (plus to plus, and minus to minus) and pay attention to the voltage on the battery and remember it. Next, we start the moped engine and again observe the readings of the voltmeter (tester).

After starting the engine, if the generator and the relay-regulator of your moped are working, the voltage should increase at the battery terminals, and as the engine speed increases, the voltage should increase even more (but not more than 14.5 volts at maximum speed), and when the speed slows down, the voltage should drop (but not less than 12.5 - 13.5 volts - it depends on how the idle speed is set on your moped, what condition the battery is in and how many consumers are on).

Thus, by adding gas and following the readings of the voltmeter, you can visually observe the operation and health of the relay-regulator of your scooter. If, after starting the engine, your voltmeter shows the same voltage on the battery as it was before starting, or less, or vice versa, an overestimated voltage, which is more than 14.5 volts at maximum speed, then most likely your voltage regulator is faulty and should be replaced.

I would like to point out that some modern mopeds, which have modern maintenance-free batteries, the voltage at maximum speed should be no more than 13.8 volts, so before checking, you should study your scooter's manual and clarify the limits of the maximum and undervoltage supplied to consumers (with a working relay-regulator).

And one more nuance - it happens that when checking the voltmeter readings jump and it is impossible to check the charging voltage normally. And the thing is that in the candle cap the noise-suppressing resistor is out of order or it simply does not exist (there are such caps). And in order to be able to check the charge voltage, you should replace the candle cap with a new one - this is clearly shown in the video below.

It should be said that after the check described above, before going for a new relay to the scooter, you should specifically check the relay-regulator using the same tester (multimeter) set to the resistance measurement mode (ohmmeter). And this will be described in detail below.

Relay on a scooter - checking the health of the relay-regulator.

I have already described in detail how to check a car relay and those who wish can see and read about this detailed article. Well, here we will consider checking the relay of most scooters.

Scooter regulator relay - terminal block with terminals A, B, C, D. There must be 18 kΩ between terminals A and B; between terminals C and D should be 33 kOhm; we change the probes at terminals C and D and at the same time it should be 42 kOhm;

And so, before checking, we set the multimeter to the resistance measurement mode in kilo-ohms. Next, we disconnect the voltage relay from the on-board network of your moped by depressing the latch and pulling the terminal block off the relay. There we will see 4 terminals (see photo on the left), which we mentally (or with a marker) mark with the letters A, B, C, D.

Checking the state of the relay-regulator will be carried out using the example of a moped relay Japanese company Honda. The same relays (with the same parameters) are installed on most Chinese scooters, scooters and mopeds.

First, we touch terminals A and B with the probes of the tester and monitor the readings of the ohmmeter. With a working relay, the tester should show 18 kOhm. And if you swap the probes of the device and touch them to the same terminals A and B, then the tester arrow should be at zero for a working relay (a unit for a digital device).

Next, we touch the tester probes to terminals C and D and look at the tester - with a working relay, the ohmmeter should show a resistance of 33 kOhm. Next, we swap the tester probes at terminals C and D and at the same time there should be a resistance of 42 kOhm for a working relay-regulator.

All other combinations of terminal connections (for example, A and C, or B and D, or diagonally A and D or B and C - a working relay should not ring, that is, there is a gap between them and pointer device should show zero, and the digital instrument shows one - open circuit.

If the readings are different, and not as described above, or when checking at the terminals of your battery with the engine running, the voltage is too high or too low, then the relay on the scooter should be bought new and replaced.

And finally, just in case, I will publish for each contact of the voltage relay what should be the color of the wire that fits the relay terminal block from the moped's electrical wiring (see the figure on the left).

This may need to be clarified, for example, if you got a moped with a relay not connected (or missing, or the terminal block is damaged, or the wires are soldered from it) and it is not clear where and what you need to connect.

Electrical diagrams for different mopeds in the sea network, but many beginners do not know how to read electrical diagrams and therefore I will show it more clearly below.

It should also be noted that on some mopeds a single-phase generator is installed, and on others a two-phase one. And, accordingly, the connection of the relay to the scooter is also done differently, and this is clearly shown in the figure below.

Connecting a relay-regulator with different generators

Figure 1 shows a single-phase generator and how the wires (and their color) are connected to the relay-regulator block designed for a single-phase generator.

And Figure 2 shows a two-phase generator and how to connect the wires (and their color) to a voltage relay paired with such a generator.

Also about single-phase and two-phase generators it is said in the video under this article.

I hope this article will be useful to novice repairmen, or just moped owners who decide to check or replace the relay with a scooter, good luck to everyone.

The relay-regulator, or voltage stabilizer, plays important role in the work of modern scooters, the main task of which is voltage stabilization. At a moped speed of 60 km per hour, the generator is capable of generating voltage up to 35 volts, and without its stabilization, this can lead to the failure of all moped electronics, including the battery. The article will tell you what a voltage regulator is and how to check it on a scooter.

Relay-voltage regulator for a scooter four-pin

What is a voltage regulator used for?

The relay-regulator stabilizes the voltage of the scooter generator at the desired level, preventing it from increasing or decreasing the indicator more or less than the norm. This prevents on-board voltage surges from going beyond the established limits (depending on the boards, this is 12-14 V) and spoiling the work of consumers whose resource is designed for no more than 13 V.

That is, this part takes over the impulses that occur during the operation of the scooter (turning on the headlights, the starter button) and transfers the resulting thermal shock to itself. In this case, all the heat that could be deposited on the contacts is generated in it and removed through the device.

In addition to voltage stabilization, the relay also converts AC to DC, which is necessary to charge the battery.

Moped manufacturers install charging relays with different parameters on scooters and select them individually for each. Depending on the controller circuit, the connectors also differ. At Chinese models usually 5 terminals (daddy), Japanese ones have 4.

Scheme and principle of operation

The operation of the stabilizer for all models is almost the same and consists in distributing the current supplied from the generator for its stabilization and further distribution to consumers.

The operation of the stabilizer is almost the same for all models.

The main peripheral consumers of the scooter include:

• battery;
• indicators;
• light bulbs;
• sensors;
• concentrator;
• other nodes;
• starting enricher.

How does a stabilizer work? The basic principle of its operation is to perform the function of a transformer, which lowers the voltage to an optimal level acceptable for operation. electrical appliances, and also stabilizes the network and prevents unexpected power surges.

In the event of a malfunction of the relay, the scooter devices fail, wear out quickly or burn out.

To avoid these problems and their undesirable consequences, you should know the basics correct operation electrical circuit and voltage nodes of the scooter (Figure 1).

The pinout diagram of the voltage relay and the taps of the main models of scooters

The pinout of the relay-regulator is standard for all Chinese-made scooter models.

Scooter relay-regulator pinout

The stabilizer has an aluminum case and plastic contacts, each of which has its own wire. Each pin has a different wire color. This makes it convenient to connect the device to the wires if the plastic connector is worn out. It is necessary to connect the wires to the contacts according to the electrical diagram (Figure 3).

Wiring diagram connection of the relay-regulator

Signs that you need to check

If the battery on the scooter often runs low, and it is still quite new, this means that there is a malfunction in the relay-regulator. As practice shows, it burns out quite often. At faulty device The battery stops fully charging and loses its capacity. This means that you won’t be able to start the scooter from the button, you will have to start it with a kickstarter.

Another hallmark Incorrect operation of the device may be the frequent burnout of incandescent bulbs. By themselves, they are durable and have a good strength resource, but are quite sensitive to voltage drops. This happens because the optimal voltage in the scooter network is considered to be 12-13 V. Increasing this value even by 2 V reduces the life of electronics and components by 2 times.

The greater the deviation from the norm, the greater the likelihood that something will burn out in the scooter. Therefore, when starting the scooter from the starter during a power surge at faulty relay Bulbs usually burn out.

The symptoms of a regulator malfunction are identical for all models of Chinese scooters. They are especially typical for charging relays for scooters of Chinese models with an engine capacity of 50 cubic meters. Therefore, before making a decision to replace something in electronics, testing of systems and devices should begin with a relay-regulator.

For all models of Chinese scooters, the signs of a regulator malfunction are identical

How to check PP with a multimeter on a moped?

Checking the relay-regulator on a Chinese scooter is carried out using a multimeter with a voltmeter function. For this purpose, a simple DT-830 (or equivalent) is usually used. It is better to carry out diagnostics and measurement of the output voltage on the removed device.

Check algorithm:

1. It is necessary to unscrew the fairing with the central phase and find a device with 4 wires on the frame: red, green, yellow and white.
2. Then start the scooter and Idling check the voltage: measure it between the green and red wires, setting the multimeter to the limit value of 20 V.
3. If the multimeter display shows the figure 14.6-14.8 V, this is the norm. For stabilizers Chinese mopeds This is the operating voltage. If, at idle, the multimeter shows a value of 15-16 V, this is high rate voltage. This indicates a malfunction of the relay-regulator.
4. Then you need to check the voltage supplied to the lighting lamps. An alternating voltage is supplied to the central lamp of the low (high) beam, so the multimeter should be switched to the alternating current measurement mode with a parameter of 20 V.
5. Next, we measure the voltage between the green and yellow wires (green is the moped's common electrical network). If the multimeter shows a mains voltage of up to 12 V, then electrical appliances are working without additional load.
6. If at idle this value is 16 V and higher, and with a sharp increase in engine speed it jumps to 25 V - the device does not stabilize the voltage and, therefore, does not work. With such indications, the device must be replaced with a new one.

Using a multimeter, they check the relay-regulator on a Chinese scooter

On 4T scooters, the relay-regulator is checked using a tester. Usually a mechanical tester is used for these purposes, although there are also electronic models.

In order to take a measurement, you need:

• switch the device to the KiloOhm mode and remove the regulator;
• then put the probes on the first pair of leads (AB). The tester should show a value of no more than 18 kOhm;
• after that, we change the position of the probes on the terminals in the opposite direction (VA) and measure the voltage again - the arrow on the device should show 0;
• then we install the probes on the next pair of leads (SD) and measure the readings on this pair;
• interchange the probes (DS) and measure the indicator again;
• the rest of the measurements have no contact and are not checked. The indicator when checking them should be zero.

In this way, regulators are checked on popular Japanese models small engine brands such as Honda (Leard, Dio, Tact), Suzuki, Yamaha.

Replacing a faulty relay-regulator on a scooter is not difficult

How to replace a faulty relay-regulator on a scooter?

If the battery contacts are not supplied charging current with a properly working generator - you need to change the stabilizer. Replacing it yourself is not difficult.

To do this, do the following:

1. Place the scooter on the center stand.
2. Find the location of the device in specific model moped. If you can’t find it right away, you can use the instruction manual.
3. Remove the cladding. Depending on the model of the moped, the stabilizer can be located on the front (under the front plastic), in the back, or under the seat. In this case, the underseat space is removed along with the seat.
4. Unscrew the device with seat with retention of fasteners. As a rule, the relay is attached to the scooter frame with a bolt, less often with a self-tapping screw.
5. Disconnect the connector chip and fix the new regulator fastener. The installed device must have a pinout and connector similar to the replaced one, and be suitable in terms of parameters for this particular scooter model.
6. Connect the relay-regulator on the scooter to the standard connector and assemble the remaining spare parts in the reverse order of disassembly.

How to make a relay-regulator with your own hands?

To make a relay-regulator with your own hands, you need a diagram and a little knowledge. The basis of the model homemade regulator the principle of parsing the generator and outputting a separate end of the wire from the ground is laid.

As a circuit, you can take the connection diagram of the relay-regulator (Figure 3), and on its basis assemble a single-phase generator.

To collect the stabilizer you need:

• disassemble the generator and remove the stator from the engine;
• then you need to unsolder the mass from the generator, solder a separate additional wire to it for winding and bring it out. This wire will be one end of the winding. The second end is the generator wire;
• after removing the wires, you need to assemble the generator in the reverse order.

With such a device, the generator has 2 wires (there should be 3 in total). You can connect the stabilizer as follows:

Do-it-yourself relay-regulator manufacturing scheme

At the end of the process, you need to connect the yellow wire from the old regulator to the “+” terminal in order to get constant pressure on board the network. Check the received voltage regulator on the scooter. This is the creation process homemade device can be considered complete.

The relay-regulator is a very useful and necessary thing for normal operation moped. However, it requires attention and constant monitoring of its work. Therefore, if the device is out of order or its performance is unsatisfactory, it is better to replace it with a new one, the cost of which today is from 300 to 500 rubles.