Replacing the rear hub bearing on the VAZ-2114 is quite difficult, but do it yourself. So, a motorist needs to know the design features of the car, as well as have some experience in repairing the suspension, but even a novice motorist will be able to understand the process by reading this material. The article will tell about all the features of the operations, and also show step by step how the procedure is done.
Video about a quick and easy replacement of the rear wheel bearing on the VAZ-2114
The video will tell you how to replace the front hub bearing, and also tell you about some of the nuances and subtleties of the process.
Rear suspension and running gear
Bearing manufactured by AvtoVAZ
Before proceeding directly to the replacement process, it is worth considering the rear suspension device in order to understand the location of the part, and also determine what needs to be removed in order to change the rear wheel bearing.
Cross section of the rear undercarriage
1. Rear wheel hub; 2. Rear suspension arm; 3. Bracket of fastenings of the suspension arm; 4. Rubber bushing of the hinge of the lever; 5. Spacer sleeve of the hinge of the lever; 6. Bolt of fastening of the rear suspension arm; 7. Body bracket; 8. Support washer for fastening the shock absorber rod; 9. Upper suspension spring support; 10. Spacer sleeve; 11. Suspension spring seal; 12. Rear suspension spring; 13. Pillows of fastening of a shock-absorber rod; 14. Buffer compression stroke; 15. Shock absorber rod; 16. Protective casing of the shock absorber; 17. Lower support cup of the suspension spring; 18. Shock absorber; 19. Lever connector; 20. Hub axle: 21. Cap; 22. Wheel hub nut; 23. O-ring; 24. Bearing washer; 25. Hub bearing; 26. Brake shield; 27. Retaining ring; 28. Dirt deflector; 29. Flange suspension arm; 30. Shock absorber bushing; 31. Lever bracket with an eyelet for attaching a shock absorber; 32. Rubber-metal hinge suspension arm;
Bearing replacement process
Now that we have dealt with the design features, we can proceed to the direct replacement process. First you need to collect the tools. What you need: a jack, a set of open-end and box wrenches, a balloon wrench, rags, a 30 socket wrench, round-nose pliers for removing retaining rings, VD-40 (if necessary), as well as a new bearing.
When everything is assembled, you can consider step-by-step instructions for replacing the rear wheel bearing on a VAZ-2114 car:
- We install the car on a flat surface.
- We install the first gear at the checkpoint and put counter-recoils (shoes) under the front wheels.
We put the first
- We dismantle the protective cap of the hub.
- Using a 30 head and an extension cord, we tear off the wheel bearing tightening nut.
- We tear off the bolts of the wheel disk.
- We jack up the car.
- We dismantle the wheel.
View of the removed wheel from the car
- We unscrew the fasteners of the rear drum.
- Remove the front cover of the brake drum.
Remove the top cover of the brake drum
- Dismantle the hub nut.
Unscrew the hub nut
- We install the puller for the hubs and begin dismantling the part.
Rear hub puller classic
- When the hub with the bearing is removed, you can proceed directly to the dismantling of the internal element.
- Using pliers, remove the circlips.
Remove the hub
- There are two ways to remove the bearing from the hub. The first one is to knock out the product from the seat. The second, less barbaric, is to use a bearing press. As practice shows, all motorists use the first, since the press is not stored in every garage.
We press out the bearing
- Now that the old product has been dismantled, you can proceed to install the new part.
- Before pressing, it is necessary to lubricate the inner surface of the hub with oil. This is necessary so that the spare part fits better into the seat.
- Once the bearing is in place, the circlips can be installed.
- Now, with light blows of the hammer, we install the hub in its place.
- The rest of the assembly process is carried out in reverse order.
Part selection
Not original Kroner rear hub bearing
The choice of a spare part is always not an easy task, because there are many factors that influence it. It is worth noting that the product must be of high quality and check the availability of certificates, original packaging, as well as holograms. In addition to the main original product, there are a number of analogues that are recommended for installation. Consider all possible options for purchasing a spare part.
Original
2108-3104020 And 2108-3104020-02 - original catalog numbers of the rear hub bearing VAZ-2114. The spare part under this article is produced at the AvtoVAZ plant. Perfect for seating. The average cost is 2000 rubles.
Analogues
Rear hub bearing
In addition to the original, there are a number of substitutes recommended for installation. As practice shows, most motorists choose them, since the workmanship and service life are much higher.
So, consider all the options for buying a wheel bearing:
| Manufacturer's name | Catalog number | Cost, in rubles |
|---|---|---|
| Weber | BR 2108-4020 | 500 |
| Master-sport | 2108-3104020-ST-PCS-MS | 500 |
| Finwhale | HB321 | 750 |
| Coram | CR001 | 750 |
| Hola | NB722 | 750 |
| meyle | 214 633 0001 | 750 |
| SCT | SCP-1307 | 750 |
| Cx | CX 081 | 750 |
| Kroner | K151208 | 850 |
| Optimal | 802 658 | 1000 |
| Pilenga | PW-P 1307 | 1000 |
| mapco | 26081 | 1100 |
| Flennor | FR891547 | 1200 |
| Herzog | H10 1206 | 1200 |
| ABS | 200068 | 1300 |
| Patron | PBK1307 | 1300 |
| Moog | LA-WB-11604 | 1400 |
| trialli | CS 256 | 1500 |
| GKN-Spidan | 26727 | 1500 |
| Torque | DAC 30600037 | 1500 |
| EGT | 554312EGTk | 1500 |
| SNR | R172.04 | 1500 |
conclusions
As can be seen from the article, replacing the rear wheel bearing on a VAZ-2114 car is not so difficult as it seems at first glance, but not all motorists are able to cope with this task, so they often turn to a car service. It is worth noting that special attention should be paid to the choice of product, because the service life of the hub itself depends on the quality of the spare part.
Sometimes, before the upcoming trip, passengers have to hear such expressions “the main thing is that the wheels do not fly off”, but in fact no one puts a serious meaning into these words, but in vain.
This may well happen! Poor fasteners and worn parts do not have the best effect on ensuring safe movement, so it is very important to identify and fix the problem in time, even if, at first glance, it seems insignificant. So, for example, many drivers do not treat wheel bearing diagnostics with due responsibility, despite the fact that this particular part is an important element of the rotating mechanism of an automobile wheel. About the characteristic signs of a broken hub and how to replace it, we will tell you in today's article.
1. How can I find out about problems in the hub?
The hub is an important part of any vehicle. It has a hole created to allow it to fit on an axle or shaft, and the main purpose of this part is to transmit torque from the crankshaft to the wheel, due to which the latter starts to rotate and the car starts to move. Along with the hub, an equally important element of the chassis assembly is the hub bearing, presented in the form of a double-row ball or single-row roller bearing. Together they are aimed at maintaining safety measures in the process of driving a car, so it is clear that the failure of any of their parts cannot guarantee this.
Today, the rear wheel hubs of any car are subjected to significant vertical and axial loads, and on vehicles with rear or four-wheel drive, a lot of torque is added to this.
Unconsciously, the owner of the car himself in the process of replacing wheels can contribute to the rapid wear of the hub bearing. When tightening the fastening bolts, you can not calculate the force and break them, but this does not mean at all that you should not fix the rim well. In this case, it is important to find a "golden mean" and then you do not have to think about the possible consequences. To tighten the bolts, it is best to use an electric wrench, as it better "feels" the limit of permissible force.
Affects the rapid wear of the bearing assembly (rear wheel) and moisture with dust that enters it from the road. Penetrating into the hub, the dust works as an abrasive substance, gradually squeezing out the lubricant through the sealing parts, as a result of which the hub bearing is destroyed by heat.
It is not difficult to notice the need to replace the wheel bearing, this will be reported to you by a characteristic knock coming from the rear of the body, which intensifies when driving on rough roads or when hitting bumps and pits. If the car is moving on a flat surface, there is a hum and, although it is not noticeable, the brake drum is very hot. Also, when turning the steering wheel, uncharacteristic braking is quite often noticeable - another sure sign of a bearing malfunction.
Usually, to determine the cause of a bearing failure, only a visual inspection is not enough, the condition of neighboring parts, the amount (quality) of lubricant and the conditions of use of the vehicle should also be taken into account.
Among the main factors affecting the failure of the rear hub bearing, there are:
Reducing the resource of parts due to long-term operation in extreme conditions (the average service life of this type of bearing is calculated at about 1,000,000 km, which in reality often does not correspond to this indicator);
Unreliability of lubricants: their excess (lack) or poor quality (70% of cases);
Contamination, when moisture or solid particles of various debris get inside the part (18% of cases);
Incorrect wheel mounting: incorrect adjustment, use of excessive force, overtightening of the hub, overheating, inaccurate clearance, etc. To avoid costly breakdowns and to take precautions, manufacturers recommend checking wheel bearings every time you change brake pads, regardless of the age of the vehicle.
2. Check if the rear wheel hub bearing needs to be replaced
Most often, there are only two reasons for the failure of the rear wheel hub bearing: the poor quality of the road surface (in some places it is generally difficult to call it expensive) and the poor quality of the materials of the part itself. In these cases, when signaling signs of the need to replace the rear hub appear, it is worth it. This process is simple, so you can do it yourself, at home. But before starting work, you should know for sure whether the whole thing is a faulty bearing, or perhaps there is another reason.
To do this, you will have to use a jack and raise the rear axle. After that, the wheel, in which the rumble is heard, is rotated and swayed to check the play. If it is detected, and when performing rotational movements, a dull tapping or crunching is heard, the bearing should be changed immediately, since falling apart during the movement of the car, it can damage the rest of the hub system.
One of the criteria for success when replacing a rear wheel hub bearing is the quality of the new part. All those who like to buy "cheaper" should remember the saying "The miser pays twice." Demanding from a cheap and low-quality bearing for many years of good service is definitely not worth it, and it is quite possible that you will soon have to make a similar purchase again (God forbid, that only this part).
3. Step by step instructions for replacing the rear hub bearing
At the preliminary stage of the replacement, it is necessary to prepare the appropriate tools. It includes: a jack, a set of screwdrivers, a wheel wrench, a hub nut puller, lithol, a pry bar and a chisel (the latter may not be useful, but it is better to have it on hand).
The immediate replacement phase includes the following points:
Having put the car in first gear, use a jack (lift) to raise its rear part and unscrew the mounting bolts, remove the desired wheel from the hub (in the case of using a jack, so that the car does not roll in front, special supports called “boots” should be placed under the front wheels »);
Having unscrewed the guide pins, they remove the brake drum (although they usually just knock it down), followed by the brake pads;
The hub fastening nut is unscrewed with a special puller (before that, the plug is removed from it), and the hub itself is knocked off the trunnion. It must be removed together with the bearing ring, and if this did not work out, then this part is dismantled with a chisel and a mount during gouging and pulling out. This process is quite lengthy, so be patient;
pressing out the old bearing. To do this, use special tongs to remove the retaining ring, and then knock down the metal boot. If, in the course of the “spiritual” work of the hammer and chisel, the edges of the hub were badly beaten off, then in addition to a new bearing, it is worth purchasing a new hub, so the further proper operation of the “crippled” is in doubt;
A new (or old) hub is lubricated with lithol and a replaced bearing is pressed into it using a special puller. Notice! It is very undesirable to hammer it with a hammer, in order to avoid damage.
The anther and retaining ring are installed in their original place;
The hub is put back on the trunnion, while tapping a little on the inner ring of the bearing, after which the trunnion is tightened, and its sides are jammed as best as possible;
Ultimately, the brake pads, drum, and finally the wheel itself are installed in their places. There are also a number of recommendations for obtaining the optimal result of the work:
To avoid damage to the rear hub bearing seat, use only professional pullers specially designed for this, taking into account the desired cage diameter.
Various types of presses are used to improve the process of installing a new bearing and seal. It is highly discouraged to use the impact method of pressing new parts (for example, with a hammer). This can damage the stuffing box seal and it will begin to leak lubricant, and will also create microcracks in the bearing cage, due to which it will heat up more and, accordingly, will fail faster.
The rear hub assembly should be assembled in the reverse order, after which, by bleeding, air is removed from the brake system and the parking brake is adjusted.
On some models, the rear hub bearing can only be replaced with the hub.
It is better to immediately change the wheel bearings of both rear wheels, since they are subject to the same load and wear out in the same way.
The running system performs many functions, the main of which is ensuring the controllability of the car. To make the machine maneuverable and safe, it is equipped with a special steering knuckle and a hub between the axles. In order for them to be as reliable as possible, they include two bearings each. Both parts may differ in size and cost, but their design remains unchanged. Both the front and back are tapered. Although some motorists claim that the rear hub bearing is easier to operate than the front one. To finally find out the answer to this question, in today's article we will consider all the features of this part.
First, let's look at the design of this element. As we have already found out, the rear hub bearing has a conical shape. So - it is attached to the axis with a special thrust nut or washer. The more this part is tightened, the tighter the rollers will be pressed. Thanks to this, the possibility of backlash of the mechanism can be excluded.
So why is a rear hub bearing easier to operate?
The design of the front and rear parts are very similar to each other, but there are some differences. The fact is that the rear hub bearing does not have therefore it is easier to operate. Now several types of these parts are installed on cars:
- deep groove ball bearings (most often for machines with dependent suspension);
- conical (for independent).
The first mechanisms differ from the second ones in that they do not have the ability to adjust the degree of pressing the rollers to the clips. They are much cheaper, and you can buy them absolutely in any town.
Why does a rear wheel bearing fail?
It often happens that this part fails due to road dust that has got into its body. This can be due to leaking oil, but most often it happens due to water getting onto the hub. Well, no one is safe from hitting a puddle. So it turns out that it’s best to have a couple more such details in your trunk so that at one fine moment you don’t have to go home on a tow truck. But having a set of new parts with you is half the battle. You also need to know how to change the rear wheel bearing. Therefore, below we will give a small instruction on the removal and installation of this part.
rear wheel - step by step process
First, remove the protective cap of the hub fastening nut and lower the tightening of the wheel bolts and the mechanism itself. After that, we take a jack and raise the car by 5-10 centimeters. In this case, do not forget about additional supports. Next, turn on the first gear and put the substrate under the front wheels. Then remove the wheel and pads. Next, using a puller, we dismantle the hub from the trunnion and the inner race of the bearing. The next step is to remove the retaining ring and then the bearing itself. All mechanisms are thoroughly washed, and a new part is pressed into the hub. The rear wheel bearing is installed in the reverse order.
No vehicle component is subjected to such a load as the chassis. Hence the large number of faults. A good example of this is the rear wheel bearing. According to the plan and calculations of the designers, it must serve regularly for at least 100,000 km. run. But domestic roads and improper operation make their own adjustments. Very often the bearing fails without having served even half of the resource.
In this case, you can not pull with a replacement. It's not even that a bad bearing will cause an even more serious malfunction. In this case, we are talking about security. No need to think that such complex repairs can only be done in a car service. It is quite possible to replace the rear wheel hub bearing yourself.
Symptoms and Causes
Consider how to check the rear wheel hub bearing. Unlike many others, this fault can be localized with almost 100% accuracy. And by virtue of this, it is not only experienced, but also novice motorists, if you know the characteristic signs. The main ones are:
- Extraneous noise while driving. It is often mistakenly confused with the "howl" of the box, but in this case the sound does not disappear even when switching to neutral.
- An unpleasant sound is especially noticeable in the back seat, from the side of the faulty wheel;
- When cornering, a clear braking of the faulty side is felt, and in especially severe cases, clicks are heard;
- Wheel heating while driving.
All these are indirect symptoms, upon hearing which the motorist should be alert and conduct a more detailed check. To do this, using a jack, hang a supposedly faulty wheel. Now you need to unroll it well.
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A hum is heard - bad, but not yet fatal. Grasping the wheel with your hands from above and below, you need to shake it vertically. If there is play - the bearing is in a landfill.
What is it coming from? Surprisingly, only a third of the bearings "die" from the natural wear of metal parts. The remaining two-thirds are due to the following reasons:
- Manufacturing defects;
- Severe operating conditions. For example, constant driving on country roads at high speed;
- Lack of timely service. As a rule, lack of lubrication and dust and dirt on the bearing;
In addition, there is another reason - incorrect installation during a previous repair. However, this can be easily avoided if, before self-replacing the rear wheel hub bearing, study the sequence of work in advance and focus on some details.
Do-it-yourself rear wheel hub bearing replacement
Any repair of the running gear of the car cannot be called simple. Not because it requires special education and special skills. The difficulty, first of all, lies in the complexity of the repair. Removing some parts requires decent effort and a lot of patience.
We must be prepared for this in advance. You can’t drive a car with a half-disassembled rear hub into a service. If the determination is not lost - first of all, you need to stock up on a tool.
Tools and accessories
To change the rear wheel hub bearing with your own hands, you will need:
- Jack and suitable wooden support;
- The socket wrench, as a rule, is 30 and a suitable piece of pipe, as an amplifier for the crank;
- Key 12, for disc guides;
- balloon wrench;
- Round-nose pliers for removing retaining rings;
- Hammer;
- Chisel;
- Universal puller. You can do without it, but this requires some experience. Therefore, it is better to buy it, it is also suitable for the front hub bearing.
- Mount.
- And, of course, a new bearing. It does not need to be taken out of the package ahead of time to prevent dirt from entering.
How to change the rear wheel bearing on the VAZ 2110: sequence of actions
First you need to break the wheel bolts, and raise the car with a jack.
Attention, in no case should work be carried out on a car installed on one jack, it is imperative to additionally use a wooden stand of suitable dimensions.
This is due to the great effort that will have to be applied in the process of work. A car on a jack will be very unstable. The further course of action is as follows:
- The bolts are unscrewed and the wheel is removed;
- Now you can remove the hub boot.
- The wheel guides are unscrewed. Sometimes this is not easy to do, they "sour" in aluminum. The main thing here is not to disrupt the edges, so there is no need to rush;
- Next, the brake drums are removed. It all depends on how long they haven't been filmed. Sometimes they are dismantled "by hand", and sometimes you have to knock with a hammer, through a tree, from the back. There is another way. The guides are screwed into special holes. It must be borne in mind that the pins cannot be used to remove the discs, this will lead to the destruction of the aluminum thread. You can only twist them to a slight stretch, and then try to knock the disk through the tree. Should help.
- The hub nut is unscrewed. You'll have to try - it is twisted very tightly. Therefore, the collar is reinforced with a piece of a suitable pipe. Care must be taken as the vehicle will wobble.
- The hub is removed. Here, of course, it is better to use a three-legged puller. However, not everyone has it, so you have to use the "proletarian" method. It consists in the following. A wheel is installed on the hub and bolted, but not completely, but so that there is a gap of several centimeters between the disk and the hub. Thus, a kind of reverse hammer is obtained. With a few sharp jerks of the wheel, the hub can usually be removed. And that's already half the battle.
- Using round nose pliers inserted into the corresponding holes, the retaining ring is removed.
- The old bearing is pressed out or simply knocked out with a universal puller;
- The axis of the hub is carefully examined. Sometimes the clip of the old bearing remains on it. It needs to be removed. The bearing is removed, you can proceed to install a new one. But first you can inspect the working brake cylinder. If it has leaks, you will have to change it so as not to remove the drum again later.
- The axle and hub are inspected for damage, cleaned of dust, dirt and rust, and lubricated with Litol type grease.
- The new bearing is pulled out of the package, its cage is also easily lubricated along the seat;
- Using a universal puller, the bearing is installed in place. In the absence of a tool, the bearing can be pressed in with a vise. In this case, the clip of the old one is used as a mandrel. It is not recommended to hammer the bearing with a hammer, this can lead to its destruction.
- Now you can install the retaining ring;
- Carefully, using a mandrel or a pipe of suitable diameter, with light blows, the hub is put in place;
- Fixed with a nut;
- The brake drum is put in place, the guides are twisted;
- The wheel is spinning. For the sake of interest, it is worth trying to shake and twist it. There will be no extraneous sounds and backlash.
How to change the rear hub bearing on a VAZ 2110 video
Outcome
After removing the car from the stands and the jack, you can test it on the go. The enjoyment of silence and satisfaction from the work done will be provided. And most importantly, now there is confidence in the reliability and safety of your car.
Unfortunately, sometimes our cars break down and need to be repaired, it is necessary to change various parts, optics, and in some cases, the rear hub bearing needs to be replaced, although, as statistics show, this happens quite rarely.
How to recognize problems in the hub?
The fact is that the hub is the most important element of any rotating mechanism, including an automobile wheel. It is a central part of rotating parts with a hole for the possibility of fitting it onto an axle or shaft. Thus, its main task is to provide rotational motion. In order to prevent free rotation on the axle, rolling bearings or special plugs are pressed into the hub hole. In addition, it is thanks to the bearings that the hub, as well as the wheel, can rotate.
It is quite easy to notice that it is urgent to replace the hub bearing, in this case there is a characteristic knock in the rear lower part of the body, most often, it intensifies when driving on rough roads or when hitting pits, as well as mounds. While driving on a relatively smooth road surface, a hum may occur. In addition, the brake drum is very hot.
Checking if the rear wheel bearing needs to be replaced
First of all, the cause of such a breakdown is bad uneven roads, especially since in some cases our road surface can hardly be called a road at all. The second reason why the bearing may become unusable is the poor-quality material from which it was made. the rear wheel is not a very complicated process, so it can be done quite easily on your own at home.
However, before proceeding directly to the actions, you should find out whether it really is the case. To do this, you need to hang out the wheel from which the rumble is heard, and, swinging it with your hands, check the play. If, during the implementation of these actions, the backlash is detected, and at the same time there are deaf knocks, then it is impossible to delay the replacement. A bearing falling apart along the road will cause damage to other parts of the hub system.
The key to fast and high-quality work is the right tool and high-quality materials, in this case the bearing. Therefore, do not try to save on it, purchase options only from good manufacturers, because the service life largely depends on this.
Replacing the rear hub bearing - your steps step by step
From the tool you will need a screwdriver, a jack, a wheel wrench, lithol, a hub nut puller, sometimes chisels and a pry bar. Next, having prepared everything you need, we proceed as follows. We put the car in first gear, having previously placed “boots” under the front wheels. We raise the car with a jack and dismantle the desired wheel. Having unscrewed the guide pins, you need to remove the brake drum, most often it is knocked down. Now the hub nut is unscrewed with a special puller and the hub itself is knocked off the trunnion. It must come off with the bearing ring, otherwise it must be removed with a pry bar and a chisel.
In order to press the bearing itself, it is necessary to remove the retaining ring with special pliers and knock off the metal boot. Next, you need to lubricate the seat and use a special puller to press the new bearings back. At the same time, keep in mind that it is highly undesirable to score them.. Now back and retaining ring. By hitting the inner ring of the bearing, we put the hub back on the trunnion. Next, you need to tighten the trunnion and hush up its sides as best as possible. The process is almost completed, the pads, the brake drum and, of course, the wheel are being installed in their original places.
