How to change the front and rear wheel bearing with your own hands. What is a rear wheel bearing, how does it work and how to replace it? How to change rear hub

14.10.2019

Many experts agree that on the VAZ 2109, like other domestic cars, the rear wheel bearing (ZPS) is a weak point. This is not due to the low quality of the products. It's all about the condition of the roads.

Given the condition of the road surface, as well as the need to always have a car ready for travel, a failed bearing should be replaced in a timely manner. Otherwise, the consequences of operating a car with a worn bearing threaten expensive repairs and an accident.

When to replace

The rear wheel bearing should be changed no later than every 100 thousand kilometers. But the realities of our roads and the quality of products are such that in fact the resource of the element is noticeably less than the specified period.

Practice shows that it is required to change the ZPS every 50-60 thousand kilometers, and in some cases even more often. It is best to focus not on mileage, but on signs of wear.

Symptoms

The car itself will tell you that it's time to change the ZPS, giving the appropriate signs:

There is noise, a strong hum or knock in the rear of the car when driving;
There is play in the bearing.

Status check

If one of the signs appeared on your VAZ 2109, you must definitely raise the rear wheels in turn and make sure that the problem is really in the bearings. For this:

Raise the wheels and spin each one by hand;
Listen for extraneous sounds when spinning the wheel;
If you hear a characteristic hum, this indicates wear on the wheel bearing;
Check the knot for play. The wheels must be hung out;
Grasp the top of the wheel firmly and pull away from you and towards you;
If the bearing is in good condition, the wheel will not move, that is, play, will not;
If there is a buildup, then you will have to replace the ZPS.

ZPS selection

When choosing a rear wheel bearing, you should focus on the required characteristics and manufacturers who today produce suitable ZPS for the VAZ 2109.

Let's start with the characteristics. The choice should be made in favor of bearings with the following parameters.

For the rear hub, a ball, angular contact, double-row sealed type bearing is used.

Now let's talk about manufacturers. There are several of them, each of which has its own characteristics.

Bearing manufacturer	Peculiarities
VBF from Volgograd plant	Motorists consider this bearing factory to be quite reliable and proven. An important plus is that the fakes of the Volgograd manufacturer on the market are quite rare.
Bearings of the Saratov plant - SPZ	A close option to the Volgograd plant, which is famous for its reliability and has an impressive popularity among owners of domestic cars. Few more fakes
	These are products of the same Saratov plant, only for budget consumers. Sufficiently cheap bearings are characterized by less durability. Otherwise, there are no serious complaints about the quality.
20 GPZ. Kursk plant	Now it is very rare to meet the products of this plant, since the enterprise produced bearings back in the days of the USSR and for some time after the termination of its existence. Today, production is not carried out, but occasionally the remnants of bearings can be found. The quality is excellent (USSR, after all), but the stoppage of production will not allow you to easily find. Maybe they don't exist anymore.

Replacement

Since the results of the test showed that the old rear wheel bearing has already worked its way out, it will need to be replaced.

Many people ignore the noise and hum of the ZPS until a certain time. But if you do not make timely repairs, this threatens serious problems that can result in the following consequences:

Initially, hum and noise will cause discomfort due to their unpleasant sounds. Many motorists are accustomed to comfort, so they will do everything to get rid of noise;
If you continue to ignore the problematic bearing, you will soon have to change not only it, but the entire rear strut. And this is a serious financial loss;
Bearing wear leads to a malfunction of the running system. From here, the car can behave in the most unpredictable way, increasing the likelihood of an accident.

Do not joke with a problematic ZPS, but it is better to start repairing it immediately if you find signs of its malfunction.

After checking, lower the machine to the ground, loosen the hub nut and wheel bolts.
Remove the decorative cap from the hub nut, then unlock the nut, loosen the tightening and remove the fasteners with a socket head with a lever to increase the force. Please note that these nuts are tightened with a large moment, so you have to sweat.
Loosen the wheel bolts.
Raise with a jack the side from which you will begin the repair. In this case, the car must be in the first gear position at the checkpoint.
Remove the wheel.
Remove the brake shoes and drums, which will allow you to completely unscrew the hub nut and move it to the side along with the thrust washer.
Now you have got rid of all the excess, so you can arm yourself with a special puller to press the hub off the axle.

You will need a vise to place the dismantled hub in. Without them, removing the bearing will be quite problematic. Don't forget to remove the retaining ring before doing this.
Using a mandrel, a puller, press out the old bearing.
The hub is extremely important to process, rinse, removing all dirt.
Only after the hub has been cleaned can a new bearing be pressed in that meets the required VAZ 2109 parameters.
Replace the retaining ring. It is also better to replace it, rather than use the old ring.
Press the hub into its rightful place using a mandrel of a suitable diameter. The force applied is necessarily in relation to the inner ring of the new bearing, and not to the outer one.
It remains for you to assemble the knot, acting in reverse order. Serious difficulties should not arise in this case.
The last step is the mandatory replacement of the old hub mounting nut. It is undesirable to use the old nut. After installing the fasteners, lock the nut.
Perform a similar operation with the second hub. Experts recommend changing the rear hub bearings in pairs so that their wear is the same and uniform. In addition, if one bearing fails, the second will soon follow. Why postpone the already mandatory events.

A competent approach to replacement, the correct choice of the rear hub bearing in accordance with the declared parameters are a guarantee of a successful repair of your VAZ 2109. Do not delay solving such a problem, otherwise it will cost you serious financial costs or, God forbid, an accident.

We continue to study the design of the car. Today is the rear wheel hub. A hub is a round piece with a hole in the center for connecting to a shaft or axle, and with a keyway or splines for torque transmission.

Hub functions

The main part of the vehicle undercarriage assembly, which experiences the greatest loads, is the hub, both front and rear. Because it is an intermediate part that connects the wheels and suspension of the car. If this important part breaks down, there is a threat to all road users.
Each wheel has its own hub. The wheel is rigidly attached to the hub and rotates around its axis, while the hub is rigidly attached to the suspension of the machine.
Depending on which drive the car has, the functions of the hub are different. If the car has rear-wheel drive wheels, then the rear wheel hubs perform an additional function - this is the redistribution of torque from the crankshaft to the wheel. It turns out that the rear hub of such cars is an element of the transmission, and not just a running gear.
Such parts are attached to the wheel hub - brake discs or drums. Drums are installed on inexpensive machines.
Therefore, another function of the rear wheel hub is to provide braking. In addition, the hub serves as an installation site for various sensors (speed, ABS, control and other technical indicators) that are stuffed with modern cars.
Here are the functions of the rear hub:

- Ensuring rigid reliable fixation of the wheel to the suspension.
- Ensuring the rotation of the wheel around its axis.
- Holds anti-lock and brake systems.
- Serves as a mounting location for various sensors.

Rear hub device

The design of the rear hubs is different whether the car is front wheel drive or rear wheel drive. The hub is a rounded metal part with an outer rim with many small holes and one large inner hole. The outer rim with holes is needed to mount the wheel. Guide bolts and studs are screwed into the holes, on which the wheel axle is fixed. The wheels are mounted, basically, either on 4 bolts, or on 5, but there are also up to 8 bolts.
The inner hole of the hub is designed to fit on the bearing. is installed in the hole in it. Some hubs have multiple locations for electronic sensors for ABS, speed, etc.
All hubs are attached with two bolts and one washer. The hub sits through the bearing on the trunnion. The trunnion is also a very important part in the chassis of a car. Bearings are used rolling roller or conical.

Rear wheel hub failure

To avoid serious breakdowns allows timely diagnosis and, if signs of a malfunction are detected, their quick elimination.

What breaks hubs:

A sporty driving style, that is, with jerks, with, with turns at high speeds, as well as fast driving over bumps.
Vehicle overload.
Getting stuck in the mud and snow when the car sat on the bottom.

During such operation of the car, the hub housing may crack and the bearing may jam.

Symptoms

Options for self-diagnosis:

When cornering, it is especially audible if the hub bearing begins to fail.
Push the rubber of the wheel across with your foot to determine if there is any play. If there is play (free play), then it's time to change the hub.
If there is a rumble in the area of \u200b\u200bthe wheel. In this case, it is necessary to raise the car with a jack and check the wheel for play. In this case, the sounds of a crunch, a creak are possible. When such a hum appears, it is impossible to operate the car further, because the hub or bearing has already worn out to the maximum and at any moment the wheel can jam.

When changing a wheel, check the hub at the same time. If it is replaced, care must be taken not to break the thread when tightening the rear wheel hub bolt.

Rear hub replacement tools

To remove the hub, you will need the following tools:

Hub replacement procedure:

Loosen wheel nuts.
Raise the car with a jack. Place supports for insurance. Place recoil devices (shoes).
Remove the decorative cap (wheel center).
Unscrew the wheel nuts.
Remove the brake drum from the hub or remove the disc brake caliper.
Unscrew the bolts securing the hub to the bracket. The bolt is unscrewed through a special hole in the hub itself. To gain access, turn the flange until the holes line up with the bolts. These nuts are tightened with a high torque, so it is not so easy to unscrew them.
Unscrew the caliper mounting bolts, the steering knuckle mounting bolts and the brake shoe guides.
Pull out the hub. The rear hub is removed from the bearing. Need a special puller to press the hub from the bearing.

Video

How to replace a Nissan X-Tail wheel bearing (Nissan Ixtrail).

How to change rear hub.

Replacement of the rear hub for VAZ 2108, 2109, 2110, 2110, 2112, 2113, 2114, 2115, 2170, 2172, KALINA, PRIORA, GRANT.

How to repair a VAZ hub.

Replacing the rear wheel hub on Skoda A5 (Skoda A5).

The rear hub bearing is a very important element of the rear wheel rotation mechanism. The main task of the bearing is to ensure that it smoothly ensures the rotation of the wheel. In this article, we will look at how to replace the rear hub bearing with our own hands, so as not to go to a service station, where they will take normal money for work.

When an unpleasant knock appears in the area of \u200b\u200bthe rear wheels, mainly on bumps or small pits, and on a flat road a characteristic hum is a message to the motorist that the rear hub bearing is faulty and needs to be replaced. I do not recommend delaying the repair, as this breakdown can pull the rest of the components and assemblies of the car.

Video. Do-it-yourself rear wheel bearing adjustment

Note that in the previous article we considered its work and do-it-yourself replacement. Due to improper idle adjustment, the car has problems with increased fuel consumption, so I recommend paying attention to this article.

How to determine if the rear wheel bearing needs to be replaced?

The main cause of rear wheel bearing failures is our most beloved domestic roads, which are simply in a terrible state. Road bumps and pits simply knock out the bearing, it quickly goes into disrepair. Another reason, quite popular in recent years, is the poor quality material from which the bearing is made. Self-replacing the rear wheel hub bearing on a car is a fairly simple repair that can be done in a garage.

Video. Do-it-yourself installation of rear wheel hub bearings

How to determine if the problem is in the rear hub bearing? Everything is very simple, you need to raise with a jack the side where the knock or rumble is pronounced, take the wheel with your hands and swing it. Thus, we will check the wheel play and if it is found, an immediate replacement is required. A bad bearing can damage the rest of the system in the hub.

The service life of wheel bearings should have a fairly high mileage (at least 100,000 km). But the condition of our roads can lead to a rather early replacement of the hub bearing on the VAZ 2109, 2110.

How to determine the need for replacement?

Strong noise, the rumble of the bearing of the rear hub VAZ 2109, 2110, the “howl” from behind, which intensifies when cornering, clearly indicates the need to check the condition of the rear hubs. The verification methods are quite simple:

be sure to lock the wheel, diagonally opposite from the side of jacking, it is necessary to hang out each rear wheel in turn. (Why each? The fact is that very often there are errors with determining the side of the hum, and even more often there is a need to replace both bearings).
with the wheel raised, you need to try to spin it as much as possible. If at the same time you hear extraneous sounds similar to a hum, you can not check further - a replacement is necessary.
if in doubt, you can still check the lateral play of the bearing by taking the edges of the wheel and shaking it towards you - away from you. If at the same time you feel the movement of the wheel on the axle, the bearing needs to be replaced.

In car dealerships, you can be offered both a separate bearing and a complete hub. We see no point in purchasing a complete assembly (except in the cases described below), where replacing the bearing is not at all a difficult matter.

A phased method for replacing the rear hub bearing on a VAZ 2109, 2110

stop the car in front;
tear off the wheel bolts;
we tear off the central nut (7) of the hub, having previously removed the cap (9);
we jack up the side and expose the “tragus”;
remove the wheel
fill the landing site of the WD-40 brake drum or other special liquids (you can use diesel fuel or brake fluid);
unscrew the guide bolts (preferably lightly tap with a hammer);
we are trying to carefully remove the brake drum (if it doesn’t work, we screw the appropriate bolts into a special thread on the brake drum, make an interference fit and try not to knock it out with a hammer. In most cases, the result will be positive. There are special drum pullers on sale, this is just in case if all else fails);
we completely unscrew the central nut (there is, of course, the possibility to unscrew it immediately, and even remove the hub along with the wheel and drum, but then there is a high probability of damage to the brake pads);
we tighten the hub (if one of the inner races of the bearing remains on the axis, it is necessary to use a puller or just a sharpened chisel to try to move it);

we inspect the axle for traces of turning the bearing (if there is, we change it, it is advisable to replace the hub assembly);
inspect the brake cylinder for leakage, pads for wear;
remove the retaining ring from the hub using round nose pliers and/or screwdrivers.

be sure to clean the edge from rust, moisten it with WD-40 or whatever is at hand.

There are three options for pressing the bearing:

Special press (not everyone has it).
Puller (it is not expensive, you can buy it, it will come in handy for the future).
Using a heavy hammer (at least 2 kg) or a sledgehammer. At first glance, the method may seem a little aggressive, but it is practiced by the vast majority of craftsmen and service stations, and we will consider it.

the hub must be well installed on a hard surface, and with a few sharp blows through the mandrel to move the bearing from its place. When this happens, you need to install the hub, for example, on a yew (so that there is an emphasis for the hub and free space for the bearing to exit)

a few more blows and the bearing will come out (do not rush to throw it away);
we inspect the landing plane for the bearing, clean the rust with sandpaper, lubricate with ordinary engine oil (you can work out);
the new bearing must be twisted with any suitable bolt through the washers (the washers must be selected according to the inner races, the bearing is double-row and it is likely to be disassembled during installation);
install the hub on a hard surface.

- we put a twisted bearing on top, lightly lubricate its mounting plane with oil (a new good bearing inside usually does not need to be lubricated, but if you have doubts and a little experience in assembling and disassembling, you can put Litol grease -24)

- with an ordinary 500-gram hammer, very lightly, we are trying to align the bearing in the plane;

- we take a suitable mandrel (for example, a mount), and try to press in the bearing with gentle blows.

The basic rule is no strong blows, if it doesn’t go, then it’s crooked

- after the bearing has passed halfway, you can already apply a little force, since it can no longer skew it.

When we reach the cut of the hub, it is necessary to use the old clip as a mandrel (no strong blows, the metal is high-carbon, with a strong blow it can burst and cause a very serious injury)

- we finish it all the way and put the stopper (if there are problems with installing the stopper, then most likely you did not finish it to the end) the stopper should easily spring in the groove;

Assembly

- that's it, we begin the process of assembling the rear hub bearing on the VAZ 2109, 2110. To do this, we put the hub on the axle (by removing the bolt with which we tightened the clips);

- we twist and tighten the central nut (we must install a new one), not forgetting to put the thrust washer;

- dress and fasten the brake drum and wheel;

- check the rotation (there should be no extraneous noise);

- if everything is fine, we lower the car from the jack;

- tighten the wheel and the central nut (the tightening torque of the hub is about 20 kg / m, this is a rather strong tightening, if there is no torque wrench, you need to tighten the nut with a lever of at least a meter with a force twice that of the wheel tightening force);

- tighten the hub nut, tighten the wheels.

An important part of the chassis of the car is the wheel hub. For its free rotation on the axis, a bearing is placed in it. During operation, it wears out and it becomes necessary to replace the wheel bearing. A signal that the wheel bearing is worn out can be a crunch, vibration and deviation of the car from the course when driving in a straight line.

Why a bearing in a hub

A rim or wheel rim is attached to the hub flange. It also installs elements of the brake system. If the wheels attached to the hub are driving, it acts as part of the car transmission. The front swivel wheel hub is a steering element. The diameter of the hub is much larger than that of its inner hole, where the bearing is pressed. Its length usually exceeds the diameter of this hole.

The high strength and design of the hub does not require frequent replacement. At the same time, the replacement of the wheel bearing pressed into it should be done more often. This part holds together with other similar bearings the weight of the machine, ensuring the rotation of the wheels. In the hubs of driven axles that do not experience heavy loads, tapered single-row bearings are usually used. For the leading ones, tapered bearings with two rows are used, which can withstand twice the load than single row ones.

Wheel bearings have a closed design, which means that they can be used until they are almost completely worn out. They do not need to be lubricated. However, the timely replacement of the wheel bearing is necessary, first of all, because it provides safe movement, under the influence of serious radial and lateral loads.

When to change a bearing

The wheel bearing directly affects the vehicle's ability to move confidently on the road without endangering people in and outside the car. If at least one of these bearings fails, there is a risk of uncontrollability of the car and an emergency. In order to understand in time whether a wheel bearing needs to be replaced, you should shake each wheel with both hands every couple of weeks to detect play or extraneous sounds.

Sure signs that the wheel bearing needs to be replaced are:

identification of a noticeable backlash in the wheel when it sways in different planes;
the appearance during the movement of a monotonous hum emanating from the wheel;
howling or noise that disappears when turning sharply;
hot to the touch hub or its cap.

The reasons for such phenomena may be loss of lubrication due to high temperatures, washing out if the car often overcomes water obstacles. Fine sand and dust can get into the bearing housing and have an abrasive effect.

In any case, it is worth thinking about how to change the wheel bearing. After all, its wear also affects the beating of the steering wheel when the car is moving. Usually this procedure is carried out after 110-130 thousand km. run. However, this figure may vary depending on the operating conditions of the machine and its driving style. It is believed that every fourth car with a mileage of over a hundred thousand kilometers requires special attention to the condition of such bearings. In order to prevent problems with them, it should be a rule for car owners to regularly diagnose wheel bearings on their own or using the services of a car service.

At the same time, it is important to remember that attempts to repair it yourself or how to replace the hub bearing cheaper will not lead to anything good, since it cannot be repaired. When it fails, it just needs to be replaced.

What you need to replace a wheel bearing

To replace the wheel bearing with your own hands, you need to be extremely careful and do not overestimate your strength. In STO conditions, this is much easier and faster to do. Most of these enterprises employ experienced craftsmen who use professional tools to knock the bearing out of the hub.

Having decided to carry out the work on your own, it is necessary to answer the question of how to remove the wheel bearing and how to replace it with a new one.

To do this, you need to prepare:

a new bearing, preferably of European production, retaining rings and a hub nut;
hub diagram and detailed instructions for the work;
a repair room with a vice and good lighting of the repaired unit;
special tool for removing the bearing;
a set of keys and heads with a collar;
round-nose pliers, which may be needed to remove the retaining ring;
lubricant (lithol);
a piece of pipe up to a meter long as a lever.

Before starting work, you should consider in detail how best to remove the wheel bearing. When doing this for the first time, it is better to invite an assistant. The wheel bearing puller deserves special attention in preparation. With it, you can carefully remove the bearing without damaging the wheel and other parts of the machine. It is better to familiarize yourself with its device and principle of operation in advance. Typically, such a wheel bearing puller has a fairly simple device.

It is based on a metal rod and two or three metal paws connected to it. Their ends are bent inward. The paws are easy to move along the rod for easy grip. They can be rotated to remove the bearing or other parts. Using the clamps included in the kit, a damaged bearing can be removed more easily. To remove sticky bearings at the service station, both a mechanical and a hydraulic puller can be used to remove the wheel bearing. Working with a bearing puller requires care and accuracy. Here, a sledgehammer and a drift are unacceptable, because. the seat on the hub may be damaged.

Replacing the front wheel bearing

When deciding how to replace the front wheel bearing, you should consider its location. After all, it is the front suspension that is the main part that affects the handling of the car. Therefore, it is better to do this work using a puller that helps to remove such a bearing without any problems. First of all, you need to fix the car in a position convenient for work. Put in first gear and place stops under the wheels, tighten the handbrake.

Replacing a front wheel bearing requires careful preparation of the work area. You should carefully examine the parts that you have to deal with, figure out how best to remove the bearing, and prepare the necessary tools. It should be taken into account that two bearings can be installed on the front hubs of the driving wheels.

To replace the hub bearing on the front wheel, you must:

Using a screwdriver, remove the bearing cap from the front wheel and unlock and loosen the hub nut.
Hang the wheel.
Tie the caliper to the suspension part to prevent it from hanging on the front brake hose. After that, wring it out with a screwdriver and remove it from the steering knuckle.
Remove the brake disc bolts from the hub and remove.
Use a screwdriver to pry off the retaining ring and remove.
Using a puller, press out the wheel bearing.
Inspect the bearing seat, clean it from corrosion and dirt, old grease, apply new grease.
The new bearing, without allowing it to be warped, is pressed into the hub using a puller.
Replace retaining ring.
Secure the bearing to the axle with a thrust washer and nut.
Tighten the nut to adjust the rotation of the wheel to eliminate play.

After completing the work, make a test drive to check for noise in the bearing. After that, once again check the presence of play in the steering. There are other ways to replace the front wheel bearing. The knocking method can be used by cutting a pipe of a suitable diameter, heating the hub, etc. They require attention and care.

Experienced car mechanics know how to replace a rear wheel bearing. This procedure is much easier than when replacing the front. The hubs of these bearings on the rear independent suspension are almost the same as the front ones. The only difference is the lack of a steering knuckle. The type of bearing may vary depending on the machine model.

Replacing the rear wheel bearing

Before replacing the bearing on the rear hub, you must, as usual, remove the wheel and brake drum, unscrew the hub nut. Brake pads can not be touched. After removing the hub using a puller, remove the bearing from the seat. The replacement of the rear wheel bearing is carried out after a careful examination of the hole in which it was located, cleaning it, and removing possible burrs.

The hub must be cleaned of dust and dirt, old grease. The rear wheel bearing should only be replaced after these procedures have been completed and the bearing seat has been lubricated with lithol. To do this, use a puller to press the bearing to the stop and install the retaining ring. Mount the entire assembly in reverse order. Fill the bearing seat generously with grease. Close it with a plug planted on the sealant.

Replacing wheel bearings on different vehicles may vary. Modern vehicles may be equipped with various easily damaged electronic devices that must be removed when replacing a bearing. Therefore, if you are not a highly qualified car mechanic, it is better to entrust this work to car service masters.

It is also worth doing the collapse of the convergence after replacing the wheel bearing. The set camber will improve the car's road holding on turns and straight lines, remove vibration, as well as reduce tire wear and fuel consumption. Vibration can also occur due to a crookedly inserted bearing. To eliminate it, you need to knock out the bearing again and check the tightness of the wheel nuts.