The motor is cold and cannot get warm. It will work for a couple of minutes and the temperature rises to 80 degrees. The generator was checked for Balakirev, they were twisted under load for 20 minutes, everything is normal.
The batteries were changed, the terminals were cleaned, and it is heated. And the more, the less current it produces.
Who has any ideas?
As it heats up, the voltage will probably drop. due to thermal compensation. If the current was measured, they would know the load ...
Normal occurrence. There are currents in the windings. Maybe the rotor was turned?
As it heats up, the voltage will probably drop. due to thermal compensation. If the current was measured, they would know the load ...
On the car, we turn on the maximum load and the current from seven amperes goes to zero. All the load is on the battery. There are no shorts in the wiring, sleep mode is also normal. We were the first to shoot Gena, the mileage of the car is 130tkm
I'm not an expert, I just went through the Toyota generator, the overrunning roller jammed, it knocked, replaced the roller, 2 bearings that could not be changed. If not the mechanical part is heated, then the semiconductors are still heated! :)) I did it on Furmanov 14, maybe they will tell me something there.
I'm not an expert, I just went through the Toyota generator, the overrunning roller jammed, it knocked, replaced the roller, 2 bearings that could not be changed. If not the mechanical part is heated, then the semiconductors are still heated! :)) I did it on Furmanov 14, maybe they will tell me something there.
The mechanical part is ok.
Why do semiconductors not heat up on a removed battery?
Valery Mikhalych, we have found a place to take them... Balakirev is roughed up and not responsible for their jambs... We drive to Furmanov 14 to Volodya (I've known him for a long time) and everything is always fine
We have been driving to Balakirev for the last two years, always without problems.
I take it to Furmanov.
see diodes on horseshoes this is often found when the polarity is not observed when connecting the battery or when lighting from another car or starter, if the diodes are working, then there may be damage to the windings during repair and the result is interturn
Have you read the thread a little?
There are no shorts in the wiring
The mechanical part is normal. Why do semiconductors not heat up on a removed battery?
real-time data of the generator, starter and battery when starting the engine and turning on all the loads of the car.
With current clamps, it is necessary to check the output current in the battery with the engine running. If the current exceeds the rated power of the generator (for example: the charge current is 70A, and the generator is 55 amps), this causes overheating. A faulty alternator will not heat up. The problem is in the battery or in an additional source of consumption (amplifier), or change the battery, if not in it, but in additional equipment, then you need to install a 100 ampere generator. Here is an example of a heating generator with a fully charged battery, but with a closed bank.
real-time data of the generator, starter and battery when starting the engine and turning on all the loads of the car.
Is there a way to measure the internal resistance of a battery? On a fully charged there is some kind of trifle. Therefore, the current is zero ...
The generator is very hot, every 10 owners of VAZ and Lada cars face such a problem. In fact, not only the domestic auto industry suffers from this disease, including many foreign cars quite often have problems with overheating of the generator.
If the generator on your car is heating up, then you should not postpone the problem for a long time, as it is quite serious. It is better to immediately contact a specialist for diagnosis and subsequent repair.
Should the generator be warm?
Does the generator need to run at all?
The generator, like any other working unit of the car, should heat up and this is completely normal! The generator heats up mainly for three reasons. The first reason is that the generator is located next to the car engine, during operation the engine heats up and heat is transferred to the generator. The second reason is from voltage, if, after starting the internal combustion engine, you turn on the fog lights, glass blowing, high beams, etc. the generator will be loaded and it will start to heat up. The third reason is a malfunction of the generator, this is exactly what we will talk about a little later
As you can see, in most cases it is considered quite normal for the car's generator to heat up. Since its normal operating temperature is approximately 60 - 70 degrees. If the generator is very hot, then I recommend that you immediately contact the service station.
The main reasons why the generator heats up
There can be a lot of reasons why the generator is very hot. Let me give you the main ones:
- Alternator failure: failed bearing, worn belt, etc.
- Wiring fault
- Diode bridge failure
- Accumulator battery
In any of these cases, the heating of the generating device will certainly lead to further problems.
The generator is very hot - what to do?
The problem with the car's generator is one of the most common. Yes, and what is there to be surprised. The operating conditions of the generator cannot be called favorable from the very beginning. During active operation, oil, dirt, salt and various substances that have a harmful effect get into the device. Their action is exacerbated by the high temperatures that occur in the engine compartment.
All automobile generating devices are united by their constructive similarity. Regardless of the GU models, they are all subject to the same “diseases”, and, accordingly, the methods of their “treatment”.
One of the most common problems with GU, along with increased noise and lack of charge, is just its rapid heating.
It is worth a lot to be able to diagnose GU on your own. You should learn, at least to carry out primary diagnostics, which would confirm the malfunction of the GU.
- Open the hood of the car;
- First of all, start checking the alternator belt.
The belt is checked for integrity and tension. If the material shows signs of wear, large cracks and disheveledness, then this is a reason for replacement. A bad belt is an extra load on the generator and other vehicle systems. Excessive load on the generator - overheating and an early failure of the unit.
As for tension, the situation is similar here. A weak or over-tightened belt affects the operation of the generator negatively.
The second in line after the belt is the fuse located in the block. As a rule, it is provided by the automaker.
The above methods will help determine whether the electrical connection of the PG is in order, whether the belt is intact. However, the verification of the device does not end there.
Here's what to do next:
- Turn on the ignition;
- Carefully monitor the battery charge indicator on the tidy after starting the engine.
In general, if the indicator does not work when the ignition is on (half a turn of the key), then a dead battery is possible, damage to the indicator bulb itself, and a wiring fault. This may also indicate problems with the gene: failure of the tablet (voltage regulator), a break in the winding or wear of the brushes. 
If the indicator continues to burn after starting the motor, then this also indicates a problem - one or more diodes of the generating device have failed, there is a short circuit in the circuit, the pulley is faulty, etc. The indicator lamp should not burn, since after starting, the supply of consumers with current is not assigned to the battery, but to the generator. The glowing indicator indicates that the battery continues to power electrical appliances.
If the indicator stops glowing only after increasing the engine speed, the problem is a weak belt tension, worn brushes, or a malfunction of the starter winding.
Further verification of the generator already implies a more detailed and professional examination. In particular, you should arm yourself with a special measuring device: a voltmeter or an ohmmeter.
- The voltage is removed from the battery terminals and from the wiring going to the GU. More than 14 volts is the standard voltage without electrical loads, 13.6 volts if optics and some other consumers are connected.
If the voltage does not exceed a value of 12-13 volts, even after increasing the engine speed to 1000 rpm, the power cable going to the GU is questioned.
If the indicators are above the norm, then this indicates a recharge of the battery, which a priori leads to battery failure.
Overheating of the generator is often associated with increased voltage on the vehicle's on-board network. This is usually caused by a bad battery. A short circuit occurs inside the battery, one of the cans is short. This, accordingly, affects the operation of the generator.
Definitely, if the gene overheats, the battery should be checked first. Often he just sits down, for example, from the work of powerful acoustics. The lost supply of electrical energy requires replenishment, and what feeds the battery while the engine is running is the generator. So it heats up in a short period of time, if it gives off voltage in larger values than it should be.
It works for wear, and, accordingly, the generating device heats up due to a faulty voltage regulator. A tablet or chocolate bar, as the regulator is commonly called, controls the voltage by preventing large amounts of current from flowing.
It is extremely important to be able to determine the cause of overheating. Thus, it will be possible to prevent the complete failure of the generating device, to establish a normal power supply in the network.
Why does the generator wire get hot?
Another common problem is the heating of the wires coming from the generator. This problem can be dealt with very simply, since the cause will be a malfunction of the wiring.
Take the C-shku and ring all the wires. If you find the defective one, just replace it.
Why does the alternator pulley get hot?
The alternator pulley on a VAZ car is heating up: in this case, there can be a lot of problems, here are the main ones:
- Tightened the belts, this heats up the bearing.
- I didn't tighten the belts, they slip and heat the pulley by friction.
- Interturn.
- A short circuit in the power circuits, the rectifier may be faulty.
In any case, even if the generating device is new, disassemble it and check for the above faults. 
Why is the diode bridge of the generator heated?
The strong heating of the generating device will certainly lead to further problems. Heating occurs for various reasons, but most often the diodes in the block burn out.
In general, checking the diode bridge in such cases is a must. It happens that after a bulkhead of a generating device or replacement of machine components in a car service, they forget to put gaskets. For example, under the rectifier unit itself. Because of this, the device starts to get very hot, as it has a short on the case without protection (gaskets).
Maybe this: the soldering on the diode bridge relaxes. Only an autopsy of the GU (generator) will show the reason. There may be unsoldered contacts or the so-called "dry" soldering. It is possible that the terminals are not tightened or the rectifier unit is broken.
Video: Replacing the diode bridge on the Lada Kalina
Why does the generator on the car heat up to such an extent that it is impossible to touch it? The charge is normal, no visible problems have been noticed. As a rule, the gene heats up in twenty minutes of operation. What is the reason?
Is it normal for a new generator to heat up to 90-100 degrees or not? Yes, if you drive many kilometers without stopping, then you won’t touch the engine or other components under the hood, they will be so hot. The generating device generates currents in the region of 100-110 amperes. With such a voltage and relatively small dimensions of the GU, as well as the lack of proper cooling, overheating is justified.
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However, strong heating after 15-20 minutes with a relatively cold engine, this is not the norm. It is clear that it is caused by excessive loads, and if the smell of burning is added, then the problem is obvious.
It is noteworthy that many note a characteristic buzzing.
Diode bridge
The strong heating of the generating device will certainly lead to further problems. Heating occurs for various reasons, but most often the diodes in the block burn out.
In general, checking the diode bridge in such cases is a must. It happens that after a bulkhead of a generating device or replacement of machine components in a car service, they forget to put gaskets. For example, under the rectifier unit itself. Because of this, the device starts to get very hot, as it has a short on the case without protection (gaskets).
Maybe this: the soldering on the diode bridge relaxes. Only an autopsy of the GU (generator) will show the reason. There may be unsoldered contacts or the so-called "dry" soldering. It is possible that the terminals are not tightened or the rectifier unit is broken.
Bearings
"Covered" front or rear bearing. This results in overheating of the GU case, and at the same time a breakdown of the winding insulation.
You can check the operation of the bearings like this. Grasp the pulley and try to twist (remove the belt before that). If the rotation is tight, it's definitely a bearing, that's why it's overheating.
Wiring
When it comes to overheating in the power supply system, how not to pay attention to the wiring. In this case, it is recommended to test the entire positive cable laid from the battery to the GU. It is possible that somewhere there is not enough insulation and it is shorting.
There must be a fuse on the wiring from the battery to the GU. When a breakdown of the diode bridge or another short circuit occurs, the fuse fails, not the positive wire. This option is provided for some domestic models (for example, GAZ).
battery
In any case, the car owner should look for the cause of the high voltage consumption. That's what the electricians say. And the first thing is to diagnose the battery.
As you know, during the operation of the engine, the GU must provide a charge to the battery. If banks or something else flew on the battery, then the current supply process will be continuous and in large quantities, which a priori will cause the device to overheat.
| Cause | Solution | |
|---|---|---|
| Battery | High voltage consumption due to excessive current output, oxidation, short circuit and failure of cans | Replace battery, charge |
| Diode bridge | Missing gasket, loose soldering, loose terminals, breakdown | Overhaul, replacement, repair |
| Bearings | Failure of the front, rear or both together | |
| Wiring | Insufficient insulation, short circuit | Rewiring, new insulation |
The problem with the car's generator is one of the most common. Yes, and what is there to be surprised. The operating conditions of the generator cannot be called favorable from the very beginning. During active operation, oil, dirt, salt and various substances that have a harmful effect get into the device. Their action is exacerbated by the high temperatures that occur in the engine compartment.
Attention. Experts insist - keep the clamps of all the wires of the generating device under a layer of grease. In this way, it will be possible to minimize the oxidation of the terminals on the terminals of the generating device.
Note. For example, if the gene is left to work without a battery connected, this will cause a voltage surge in the car's on-board network, which is already dangerous for various electrical devices, including the generator itself.
If the problem of generator overheating is associated with a diode bridge, then the failure of the latter is caused by just such a situation or incorrect diagnosis of the GU.
Often, inexperienced motorists, when checking the generating device, connect the output terminal to the car body. Such a test for a “spark” leads to a problem, since too high voltage flows through the diode bridge, which can disable the elements of the assembly.
All automobile generating devices are united by their constructive similarity. Regardless of the GU models, they are all subject to the same “diseases”, and, accordingly, the methods of their “treatment”.
One of the most common problems with GU, along with increased noise and lack of charge, is just its rapid heating.
It is worth a lot to be able to diagnose GU on your own. You should learn, at least to carry out primary diagnostics, which would confirm the malfunction of the GU.
- Open the hood of the car;
- First of all, start checking the alternator belt.
The belt is checked for integrity and tension. If the material shows signs of wear, large cracks and disheveledness, then this is a reason for replacement. A bad belt is an extra load on the generator and other vehicle systems. Excessive load on the generator - overheating and an early failure of the unit.
As for tension, the situation is similar here. A weak or over-tightened belt affects the operation of the generator negatively.
The second in line after the belt is the fuse located in the block. As a rule, it is provided by the automaker.
The above methods will help determine whether the electrical connection of the PG is in order, whether the belt is intact. However, the verification of the device does not end there.
Here's what to do next:
- Turn on the ignition;
- Carefully monitor the battery charge indicator on the tidy after starting the engine.
In general, if the indicator does not work when the ignition is on (half a turn of the key), then a dead battery is possible, damage to the indicator bulb itself, and a wiring fault. This may also indicate problems with the gene: failure of the tablet (voltage regulator), a break in the winding or wear of the brushes.
If the indicator continues to burn after starting the motor, then this also indicates a problem - one or more diodes of the generating device have failed, there is a short circuit in the circuit, the pulley is faulty, etc. The indicator lamp should not burn, since after starting, the supply of consumers with current is not assigned to the battery, but to the generator. The glowing indicator indicates that the battery continues to power electrical appliances.
If the indicator only stops glowing after the engine speed is increased, the problem is a weak belt tension, worn brushes, or a malfunction of the stator winding.
Further verification of the generator already implies a more detailed and professional examination. In particular, you should arm yourself with a special measuring device: a voltmeter or an ohmmeter.
- The voltage is removed from the battery terminals and from the wiring going to the GU. More than 14 volts is the standard voltage without electrical loads, 13.6 volts if optics and some other consumers are connected.
If the voltage does not exceed a value of 12-13 volts, even after increasing the engine speed to 1000 rpm, the power cable going to the GU is questioned.
If the indicators are above the norm, then this indicates a recharge of the battery, which a priori leads to battery failure.
Overheating of the generator is often associated with increased voltage on the vehicle's on-board network. This is usually caused by a bad battery. A short circuit occurs inside the battery, one of the cans is short. This, accordingly, affects the operation of the generator.
Definitely, if the gene overheats, the battery should be checked first. Often he just sits down, for example, from the work of powerful acoustics. The lost supply of electrical energy requires replenishment, and what feeds the battery while the engine is running is the generator. So it heats up in a short period of time, if it gives off voltage in larger values than it should be.
It works for wear, and, accordingly, the generating device heats up due to a faulty voltage regulator. A tablet or chocolate bar, as the regulator is commonly called, controls the voltage by preventing large amounts of current from flowing.
It is extremely important to be able to determine the cause of overheating. Thus, it will be possible to prevent the complete failure of the generating device, to establish a normal power supply in the network.
