produced from 2011 to 2014. print
| Year | Engine | Type | Color | Lifetime | Featured Manufacturers |
| 2011 | for all | G12+ | red | 5 years | Frostschutzmittel A, VAG, FEBI, Zerex G |
| 2012 | for all | G12++ | red | 5 to 7 years old | Freecor QR, Freecor DSC, Glysantin G 40, FEBI |
| 2013 | for all | G12++ | red | 5 to 7 years old | FEBI, VAG, Castrol Radicool Si OAT |
| 2014 | for all | G12++ | red | 5 to 7 years old | Frostschutzmittel A, FEBI, VAG |
For example, for Kia Rio (3rd generation) 2011, with any type of engine, a carboxylate class of antifreeze, type G12 + with shades of red, is suitable. The approximate period of the next replacement of which will be 5 years. If possible, check the selected fluid against the requirements of the vehicle manufacturer's specifications and service intervals. Important to know Each type of liquid has its own color. There are rare cases when a type is tinted with a different color. The color of red antifreeze can be from purple to light pink (green and yellow have the same principles).
Mixing liquid from different manufacturers is possible if their types correspond to the mixing conditions. produced from 2005 to 2011. print
| Year | Engine | Type | Color | Lifetime | Featured Manufacturers |
| 2005 | for all | G12+ | red | 5 years | Chevron, AWM, G-Energy, Lukoil Ultra, GlasElf |
| 2006 | for all | G12+ | red | 5 years | Chevron, G-Energy, Freecor |
| 2007 | for all | G12+ | red | 5 years | Havoline, MOTUL Ultra, Lukoil Ultra, GlasElf |
| 2008 | for all | G12+ | red | 5 years | Havoline, AWM, G-Energy |
| 2009 | for all | G12+ | red | 5 years | Havoline, MOTUL Ultra, Freecor, AWM |
| 2010 | for all | G12+ | red | 5 years | Havoline, AWM, G-Energy, Freecor |
| 2011 | for all | G12+ | red | 5 years | Frostschutzmittel A, VAG, FEBI, Zerex G |
For example, for Kia Rio (2nd generation) 2005, with any type of engine, a carboxylate class of antifreeze, type G12 + with shades of red, is suitable. The approximate period of the next replacement of which will be 5 years. If possible, check the selected fluid against the requirements of the vehicle manufacturer's specifications and service intervals. Important to know Each type of liquid has its own color. There are rare cases when a type is tinted with a different color. The color of red antifreeze can be from purple to light pink (green and yellow have the same principles).
Mixing liquid from different manufacturers is possible if their types correspond to the mixing conditions. You will need help to bleed the brakes.
When replacing, we pump out the old liquid from the reservoir with a rubber bulb.
After pumping out the old brake fluid, fill the reservoir with new one.
We carry out the replacement with the engine off, first in one circuit, and then in the other in the following sequence:
Remove the protective cap from the brake bleed valve.
With a spanner wrench or a “10” head, loosen the tightening of the bleeder fitting. We put a hose on the fitting, and immerse its free end in a container partially filled with working fluid.
The assistant should vigorously depress the brake pedal to the stop 4-5 times and keep it pressed.
Using the “10” wrench, unscrew the bleeder valve by 1/2–3/4 turn.
In this case, liquid with air bubbles will flow out of the hose, and the brake pedal will go forward.
As soon as the liquid stops flowing out of the hose (while the pedal should reach the stop), we wrap the fitting, and only after that the assistant can release the pedal.
Repeat pumping until the liquid coming out of the hose becomes light. We remove the hose, wipe the bleeder dry and put a protective cap on it.
We pump, as described above, the brake mechanism of the left front wheel.
Similarly, we pump the brake mechanisms of another circuit.
When pumping, you need to monitor the level of fluid in the tank and add fluid.
We pump the hydraulic drive of the brake system until a new fluid (lighter than the old one) begins to come out of the bleeders of all working cylinders. After pumping, we bring the fluid level in the hydraulic brake reservoir to normal.
There is an even easier option for changing the brake fluid. This method does not require the presence of an assistant. With this method, a certain supply of brake fluid (at least 1 liter) is desirable.
We install the car on an inspection ditch or overpass and ensure free movement between the brake fluid reservoir in the engine compartment and the brake cylinders of all four wheels.
We pump out the brake fluid from the tank with a rubber bulb or syringe. Add new fluid to the top edge. To speed up the process (in order to release liquid from all cylinders at once), it is advisable to pick up four pieces of tubes that fit tightly on the bleed fittings of all cylinders. We lower the free ends of the tubes into transparent bottles of a small capacity.
We turn off the fittings of all brake cylinders. We make sure that the liquid has flowed through all four tubes. We control the decrease in fluid from the tank located on the brake cylinder, and immediately replenish the tank. We observe an increase in the level of liquid in bottles located near the wheel brake cylinders.
It is necessary to move several times from the position of monitoring the outflow of fluid from the fittings of the brake cylinders to the position where you can check and replenish the fluid level in the reservoir located on the brake cylinder in order to prevent the reservoir from draining.
Usually the level rises most rapidly in the bottle into which the hose coming from the brake cylinder of the front left wheel is lowered. As soon as there is about 200 ml of liquid in the bottle of the front left wheel, we wrap and tighten the fitting of this cylinder. Next, we wait for the same result at the cylinder of the front right wheel and also wrap its bleed fitting. You can complete the process after 200-250 ml of liquid comes out through the fitting of each rear wheel.
The 2012 Kia Rio III power steering is filled with branded green PSF-4 fluid, which cannot be mixed with any other fluid, so be careful when replacing. The very procedure for changing (displacing) hydraulic oil is quite simple, and literally any car owner can handle it, even alone. In order to avoid any difficulties, we suggest watching a visual video about replacing the Rio 3rd generation power steering fluid.
The required volume in the Kia Rio power steering system is 0.8 liters. PSF oils according to specification PSF-3 or PSF-4.
How to change hydraulic oil in power steering Kia Rio IIIBriefly, the process of replacing the hydraulic fluid of a Kia car will include the following steps:
- pump out as much as possible from the tank with a syringe;
- add to full;
- remove the return hose from the tank fitting and direct it into another empty container; turn the steering wheel back and forth, from end to end until the liquid drops to a minimum level, then top up again and repeat the steps;
- how fresh slurry will go from the return, the process can be completed;
- we check that the level in the tank is at the maximum and now turn on the ignition so that the pump pumps itself.
More clearly how to change the fluid in the GUR Kia Rio 3 with your own hands, see the video.
When to change the oil in the power steering Rio 3The manufacturer claims that the liquid filled from the factory is designed for the entire life of the car, but experts recommend changing it every 3 years or being regulated by such signs of loss of oil performance properties, such as:
- noise during operation of the power steering pump,
- an increase in the applied force when turning the steering wheel,
- the smell of burning from the barrel of power steering fluid,
- oil color change.
For long-term proper operation of the engine, it is necessary to monitor the serviceability and perform timely maintenance of the cooling system. Because overheating the engine threatens costly repairs. One of the maintenance procedures for the Kia Rio-3 cooling system is coolant replacement.
According to the maintenance regulations, the coolant is replaced at 210 thousand kilometers or after 10 years, whichever comes first. Subsequent replacements should be carried out every 2 years or every 30 thousand km.
Signs of the need to replace the coolantYou may need to change the coolant much sooner if:
The manufacturer recommends using antifreeze-based coolant in the Kia Rio-3 cooling system (the liquid filled from the factory is green, it is advisable to use antifreeze of the same color for topping up), designed for aluminum radiators.
antifreeze (non-freezing)-coolant, consisting of polyhydric oily, viscous alcohols - ethylene glycols (freezing point -70 ° C, boiling point + 195 ° C). It is customary to dilute antifreezes with water (antifreeze concentration must be at least 55%), the resulting coolant freezes at -40 ° C and boils in a sealed cooling system at + 130 ° C.
The volume of the Kia Rio-3 cooling system is 5.3 liters.
Cooling system Kia Rio-3The cooling system in Rio 3 consists of:
This video demonstrates the principle of operation of the engine cooling system.
Replacing antifreeze in Kia Rio-3Replacing antifreeze is a fairly simple event that does not require any special skills or special tools. Everything can be done at home. However, it is more convenient to replace the coolant in a viewing hole or overpass, because. drain plugs are located at the bottom.
Materials and tools:- Drainage container with a volume of about 6 liters (any old canister).
- Funnel (cut from an old plastic bottle will do).
- A rubber bulb with a tube or a large syringe (needed to pump fluid out of the expansion tank).
- Pliers.
- Rags.
The coolant is changed when the engine is cold.
The procedure for replacing the coolant:- Turn the filler cap half a turn, this will reduce the pressure in the system.
- Get under the car and unscrew the engine protection and the shield that protects the left side of the engine from dirt.
- Place a container under the radiator drain hole to drain the liquid.
- Completely unscrew the filler cap of the cooling system.
- Partially unscrew the drain plug (when the pressure decreases, unscrew it completely).
- After draining all the antifreeze from the radiator, tighten the cap.
- Loosen the clamp on the lower radiator hose, disconnect it and drain the remaining fluid from the engine.
- Then plug it in place.
- Pump out the old antifreeze from the expansion tank and fill in fresh antifreeze just above the “L” mark.
- Pour fresh antifreeze into the cooling system until it overflows into the expansion tank. Close the lid.
- Start the car and let it warm up until the fan turns on (this will make sure that all parts of the cooling system are working).
- Check the antifreeze level and bring it up to the “F” (full) mark.
Due to the fact that air locks could form in the cooling system, monitor the level of antifreeze for the first few days.
If hot air does not blow from the stove on a warm engine, then this may indicate the formation of an air lock in the cooling system.
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