Installing the bearing on the rear hub of the car. Rear hub: functions and replacement instructions

The running system performs many functions, the main of which is ensuring the controllability of the car. To make the machine maneuverable and safe, it is equipped with a special steering knuckle and a hub between the axles. In order for them to be as reliable as possible, they include two bearings each. Both parts may differ in size and cost, but their design remains unchanged. Both the front and back are tapered. Although some motorists claim that the rear hub bearing is easier to operate than the front one. To finally find out the answer to this question, in today's article we will consider all the features of this part.

First, let's look at the design of this element. As we have already found out, the rear hub bearing has a conical shape. So - it is attached to the axis with a special thrust nut or washer. The more this part is tightened, the tighter the rollers will be pressed. Thanks to this, the possibility of backlash of the mechanism can be excluded.

So why is a rear hub bearing easier to operate?

The design of the front and rear parts are very similar to each other, but there are some differences. The fact is that the rear hub bearing does not have therefore it is easier to operate. Now several types of these parts are installed on cars:

• deep groove ball bearings (most often for machines with dependent suspension);
• conical (for independent).

The first mechanisms differ from the second ones in that they do not have the ability to adjust the degree of pressing the rollers to the clips. They are much cheaper, and you can buy them absolutely in any town.

Why does a rear wheel bearing fail?

It often happens that this part fails due to road dust that has got into its body. This can be due to leaking oil, but most often it happens due to water getting onto the hub. Well, no one is safe from hitting a puddle. So it turns out that it’s best to have a couple more such details in your trunk so that at one fine moment you don’t have to go home on a tow truck. But having a set of new parts with you is half the battle. You also need to know how to change the rear wheel bearing. Therefore, below we will give a small instruction on the removal and installation of this part.

rear wheel - step by step process

First, remove the protective cap of the hub fastening nut and lower the tightening of the wheel bolts and the mechanism itself. After that, we take a jack and raise the car by 5-10 centimeters. In this case, do not forget about additional supports. Next, turn on the first gear and put the substrate under the front wheels. Then remove the wheel and pads. Next, using a puller, we dismantle the hub from the trunnion and the inner race of the bearing. The next step is to remove the retaining ring and then the bearing itself. All mechanisms are thoroughly washed, and a new part is pressed into the hub. The rear wheel bearing is installed in the reverse order.

During the movement of the car, a specific hum may occur, changing the tone to low at low speeds or noise with a possible rattle at high speed. Such troubles can create a hub bearing. The performance characteristics laid down by the manufacturer should allow the driver not to think about this wheel element for a long time.

However, road realities make their own correction. The primary reason a rear hub bearing needs to be replaced is not physical wear, but mechanical deformation. The driver does not have time to notice all the holes on the road, and for the failure of vulnerable parts, it is enough to get into only one of them.

A constant rumble from the rear wheels should alert the driver, and it is necessary to stop in the nearest place and check the bearing's performance. The term of its high-quality work is usually about 100 thousand kilometers. While approaching such a parameter, you need to start diagnosing their condition.

For this to work, you will need to do the following:

• required lock the wheels located diagonally to the ones being diagnosed, because you need to check on both sides, since in the cabin it is not always clear where the noise is coming from;
• jacked up spin the wheel as much as possible hands until a familiar rumble is heard, usually a characteristic problematic sound is noticeable almost immediately, because a high-quality bearing works without rattle, crunch and buzz;
• on a doubtful wheel, it is worth checking the transverse play using a simple procedure, holding the wheel, you need to shake it away from you and towards you, and the presence of a noticeable movement is an indication for replacing the bearing.

You need to know that most car dealerships offer a hub assembly with a bearing, but if the bore diameter has no wear or deformation, then you can not change the hub, but buy a separate repair bearing.

Replacement procedure

Before changing the rear wheel bearing, we block the car with the help of wheel chocks. We loosen the fasteners on the diagnosed wheel. Also, having got rid of the central cap, we release the central nut by 1-2 turns. Now you can jack up this side.

We install safety racks under the body and remove the wheel. The seat of the brake drum can be filled with WD-40 to facilitate dismantling. In some cases, brake fluid or diesel fuel is used. Before unscrewing the guide bolts, they are usually tapped with a copper hammer so that the “sticky” thread “succumbs”.

Dismantle the brake drum. In problematic cases, a special remover is used for such an operation, and for easier situations, bolts are screwed into the thread intended for them, with their help an interference is created for removal.

Step 1. Remove the cap Step 2. Unscrew the nut with a puller Step 3. Remove the hub with a puller Step 4. We take out the ring and prepare the bearing Step 5. Press the bearing with a puller Step 6. Mount the hub back Step 7. Rolling the Nut

Remove the central nut and stretch the entire hub along the axis. Sometimes a bearing race remains on the shaft, then using a puller or chisel, dismantle it separately after the hub. We carry out the operation so as not to damage the landing surface.

We inspect the axle to detect rotation of the bearing cage. If there are such traces (the presence of grooves on the landing diameter), then the hub will also have to be changed.

You need to know that the formation of serifs with a chisel or a breakdown on a worn surface for a more rigid fit of the bearing race is strictly unacceptable! It is necessary to change the worn hub completely in such a situation!

The current replacement of the rear wheel bearing can be carried out with concomitant diagnostics of other elements. It is worth simultaneously checking the brake cylinder for leaks, and the brake pads are monitored for wear.

Using a removable tool, we take out the retaining ring, and if necessary, fill in special cleaning fluid under it to make the bearing easier to press out. It is customary to use one of three popular methods for dismantling the outer race from the hub:

1. using a hydraulic press, which is not found in every garage;
2. reusable puller, its cost is affordable, and you can use the unit in the future;
3. with a hammer or sledgehammers 2-3 kg, for this method a special spacer of the appropriate diameter is required.

We install the hub on a hard surface and apply a couple of blows on the prepared mandrel with a hammer. This is done carefully so as not to damage the seating surface with a mandrel or other parts with a heavy hammer.

The surface freed from the clip can be cleaned with fine sandpaper from possible corrosion spots and then lubricated with oil (working off is allowed). It will facilitate the installation of a new bearing, which must first be assembled using two washers and a bolt. The outer diameter of the washers should be 2-3 mm smaller than the bearing diameter.

Lubricants can be added to the double row separator before assembly. With the help of a hammer, preferably with a copper or bronze ending, lightly tap on opposite sides to "plant" the bearing.

You need to know that bearings are made from high-alloy steel, which can crumble under strong dynamic loads (sharp impacts), so it is recommended to use a “soft” copper or bronze spacer so as not to damage the cages.

If at the initial stage the entry turns out to be tight, then there is probably a bias, so it is worth leveling it with light blows, and not applying unnecessary force. When the new clip comes in half, the old one can be used as a spacer. We continue until the groove for the retaining ring appears. We fix the bearing with a ring.

Hub mounting

We get rid of the tightening device from the bolt and two washers. Now you can return the hub to its place. Be sure to install a new central nut, having previously lubricated the thread with "lithol" or other lubricant.

We install the brake drum on the fasteners. We put the wheel and fix it with fixing bolts. We turn the wheel "by hand" and listen to extraneous noise. The absence of a hum or rattle, as well as free rotation, indicates the correct assembly.

We lower the wheel with a jack, and only after that we carry out the final tightening of the central nut. It is recommended to use a torque wrench for this operation. The preload value should be close to 20 kg/m. This value is quite large, so without a special key, you will need to increase the key length. Now the hook can be centered and the mounting bolts on the wheel can be tightened to the required torque.

Many experts agree that on the VAZ 2109, like other domestic cars, the rear wheel bearing (ZPS) is a weak point. This is not due to the low quality of the products. It's all about the condition of the roads.

Given the condition of the road surface, as well as the need to always have a car ready for travel, a failed bearing should be replaced in a timely manner. Otherwise, the consequences of operating a car with a worn bearing threaten expensive repairs and an accident.

When to replace

The rear wheel bearing should be changed no later than every 100 thousand kilometers. But the realities of our roads and the quality of products are such that in fact the resource of the element is noticeably less than the specified period.

Practice shows that it is required to change the ZPS every 50-60 thousand kilometers, and in some cases even more often. It is best to focus not on mileage, but on signs of wear.

Symptoms

The car itself will tell you that it's time to change the ZPS, giving the appropriate signs:

• There is noise, a strong hum or knock in the rear of the car when driving;
• There is play in the bearing.

Status check

If one of the signs appeared on your VAZ 2109, you must definitely raise the rear wheels in turn and make sure that the problem is really in the bearings. For this:

• Raise the wheels and spin each one by hand;
• Listen for extraneous sounds when spinning the wheel;
• If you hear a characteristic hum, this indicates wear on the wheel bearing;
• Check the knot for play. The wheels must be hung out;
• Grasp the top of the wheel firmly and pull away from you and towards you;
• If the bearing is in good condition, the wheel will not move, that is, play, will not;
• If there is a buildup, then you will have to replace the ZPS.

ZPS selection

When choosing a rear wheel bearing, you should focus on the required characteristics and manufacturers who today produce suitable ZPS for the VAZ 2109.

Let's start with the characteristics. The choice should be made in favor of bearings with the following parameters.

For the rear hub, a ball, angular contact, double-row sealed type bearing is used.

Now let's talk about manufacturers. There are several of them, each of which has its own characteristics.

Bearing manufacturer	Peculiarities
VBF from Volgograd plant	Motorists consider this bearing factory to be quite reliable and proven. An important plus is that the fakes of the Volgograd manufacturer on the market are quite rare.
Bearings of the Saratov plant - SPZ	A close option to the Volgograd plant, which is famous for its reliability and has an impressive popularity among owners of domestic cars. Few more fakes
	These are products of the same Saratov plant, only for budget consumers. Sufficiently cheap bearings are characterized by less durability. Otherwise, there are no serious complaints about the quality.
20 GPZ. Kursk plant	Now it is very rare to meet the products of this plant, since the enterprise produced bearings back in the days of the USSR and for some time after the termination of its existence. Today, production is not carried out, but occasionally the remnants of bearings can be found. The quality is excellent (USSR, after all), but the stoppage of production will not allow you to easily find. Maybe they don't exist anymore.

Replacement

Since the results of the test showed that the old rear wheel bearing has already worked its way out, it will need to be replaced.

Many people ignore the noise and hum of the ZPS until a certain time. But if you do not make timely repairs, this threatens serious problems that can result in the following consequences:

• Initially, hum and noise will cause discomfort due to their unpleasant sounds. Many motorists are accustomed to comfort, so they will do everything to get rid of noise;
• If you continue to ignore the problematic bearing, you will soon have to change not only it, but the entire rear strut. And this is a serious financial loss;
• Bearing wear leads to a malfunction of the running system. From here, the car can behave in the most unpredictable way, increasing the likelihood of an accident.

Do not joke with a problematic ZPS, but it is better to start repairing it immediately if you find signs of its malfunction.

1. After checking, lower the machine to the ground, loosen the hub nut and wheel bolts.
2. Remove the decorative cap from the hub nut, then unlock the nut, loosen the tightening and remove the fasteners with a socket head with a lever to increase the force. Please note that these nuts are tightened with a large moment, so you have to sweat.
3. Loosen the wheel bolts.
4. Raise with a jack the side from which you will begin the repair. In this case, the car must be in the first gear position at the checkpoint.
5. Remove the wheel.
6. Remove the brake shoes and drums, which will allow you to completely unscrew the hub nut and move it to the side along with the thrust washer.
7. Now you have got rid of all the excess, so you can arm yourself with a special puller to press the hub off the axle.

1. You will need a vise to place the dismantled hub in. Without them, removing the bearing will be quite problematic. Don't forget to remove the retaining ring before doing this.
2. Using a mandrel, a puller, press out the old bearing.
3. The hub is extremely important to process, rinse, removing all dirt.
4. Only after the hub has been cleaned can a new bearing be pressed in that meets the required VAZ 2109 parameters.
5. Replace the retaining ring. It is also better to replace it, rather than use the old ring.
6. Press the hub into its rightful place using a mandrel of a suitable diameter. The force applied is necessarily in relation to the inner ring of the new bearing, and not to the outer one.
7. It remains for you to assemble the knot, acting in reverse order. Serious difficulties should not arise in this case.
8. The last step is the mandatory replacement of the old hub mounting nut. It is undesirable to use the old nut. After installing the fasteners, lock the nut.
9. Perform a similar operation with the second hub. Experts recommend changing the rear hub bearings in pairs so that their wear is the same and uniform. In addition, if one bearing fails, the second will soon follow. Why postpone the already mandatory events.

A competent approach to replacement, the correct choice of the rear hub bearing in accordance with the declared parameters are a guarantee of a successful repair of your VAZ 2109. Do not delay solving such a problem, otherwise it will cost you serious financial costs or, God forbid, an accident.

As you know, the wheel hub is the most important part where double sealed ball bearings are used. On the VAZ 2110, replacing the rear hub is a difficult and responsible matter.
Although, replacing the rear hub of the VAZ 2110 can be done calmly with your own hands, which will be discussed in this article.

Removing and replacing the hub

To get started, arm yourself with the necessary tools:

• Heads for 36, 15 and 13;
• Internal bat;
• A metal washer having a diameter of 8 cm;
• A large hammer or even a sledgehammer (you can also use an oil-powered or mechanical press);
• Five bolts.

If you need to replace the hub or remove it for any reason, you should first unscrew the nuts that fix the wheel.
We continue:

• after turning out the bolts with a T-50 bit and a head / 36, the wheel is removed, and the car is placed on supports.

Note.
The car must be braked with a handbrake and it is imperative to install wheel chocks, called shoes. We put the car on stops like this: jack the rear of the car and install the support under the car.

• we lower the lever all the way down, since the car is already disengaged;
• Next you need to remove the brake disc.

Note. Do not forget to disconnect the handbrake cable from the brake caliper. We free the caliper itself from the guides.

• we fix the caliper (for example, it can be tied to the rear suspension spring or completely turned out using the 15 head).

Note. Remember that during operation it is impossible to twist or pull the brake hose.

If the VAZ 2110 is a new modification, then there may be various sensors on the rear wheel. They should also be dismantled.
We continue:

• take out ;

• we pull the hub off the shaft (for this we take it with both hands and pull it);
• instead of the five removed hub bolts, five M10 bolts should be screwed in, having a length of 9 or 10 cm (it should be screwed in correctly so that the bolt captures all the threads on the brake disc);

• we put the hub with the heads of the screwed bolts on some hard surface;
• a metal washer is placed on top;
• a large hammer or sledgehammer is taken;

• we beat with a tool or press the puck with a press (as a rule, the hub moves after the tenth blow with a sledgehammer);
• disconnect the brake disc and hub;
• we collect everything in the reverse order (already when assembling a new hub, there is no need to use a sledgehammer, since everything is pulled together with threads).

Note. The new rear wheel hub in the VAZ 2110 must be lubricated with oil.

At this stage of work, the replacement of the rear hub can be considered completed. In many cases, when replacing the rear hub with a VAZ 2110, the bearing is also changed at the same time.
You can learn how to do this from other articles, we will not dwell on this in detail here.
I would just like to point out the following:

• Bearings with a double-sided seal in the hub of the VAZ 2110 have a split ring in their design. These bearings do not require any adjustment or even lubrication for a long time (while in service), because grease is put into the rear hub before the bearing is installed.
• The hub itself, both front and rear, is made of chromium steel and has three holes. It is these very holes that help to remove the bearings, if anything.
• The rear hub bearings have an axial clearance of 0.06-0.085 mm, which is felt when the wheel is rocking perpendicular to the wheel rotation. Such a backlash should not be considered an increased clearance, since the reason may not be in the bearing, but in other elements and connections;
• It is not recommended to tighten the hub nuts with a torque greater than that specified by the manufacturer. On the VAZ 2110, the torque is 15 / 0.15 kgf.

When replacing the rear wheel hub, it is advisable to use video and photo materials. When you work with your own hands, detailed instructions with pictures and diagrams are what you need.
Self-replacement of the hub and repair of other parts of the car will enable the motorist to save a lot of money, because the price of a service in car services is very high today.

Compared to the front, the rear wheel bearing has a much longer service life. This is due to the fact that this part is less affected by external forces and works in only one direction. However, the quality of our roads accelerates the wear of this element, which leads to breakage of the part and its failure. Let's try to figure out how to diagnose and replace the rear wheel bearing. Let me remind you that we have already written with our own hands.

When to change the rear bearing

To know for sure that the part needs to be replaced, it is necessary to raise the rear wheels one by one and do the following experiments with them. The wheel is spun by hand as much as possible, then it is given the opportunity to rotate freely. If you hear any sounds in the form of crunches and noises, then the hub bearing needs to be replaced. In addition, in addition to this feature, it can be called that in the process of rotation, the wheel stops very quickly.

Many drivers make a mistake when they hang out the wheels not one by one, but two at once. In this case, the load on the suspension changes and then you can get a rather inaccurate diagnostic result.

To dispel all doubts, you can take hold of the edges of the wheel and try to shake it. If there is a noticeable play of the wheel relative to the other axis, then the bearing definitely needs to be replaced urgently.

How to replace the rear wheel bearing on the VAZ 2110

First of all, the front wheels of the car must be locked. To do this, wheel chocks must be installed under the wheels, and the gear lever is set to the “first” gear position. A cap is removed from the rear wheel, under which there is a hub nut. The fastener must be unlocked and loosened. For this, a 30 head, a key and a long pipe (at least half a meter) are used. As soon as the nut is broken, the wheel bolts are loosened and the rear of the car is raised with a jack.

The brake drum of the rear wheel will open in front of you. To remove it, you need to unscrew the guides from it and screw it all the way into other holes. With the help of a chisel, the drum is gradually knocked out, and the guides are tightened with new force. Such actions usually break the drum with ease.

Remove the brake pads and brake levers so that the rear hub is completely free. no need to take off. It is enough to tie it with threads so that the pistons do not open up and squeeze out the brake fluid. Unscrew the hub nut to the end and dismantle the hub. If any bearing race remains inside, it is removed with a puller or chisels.

It is better not to use the old hub, and therefore it is necessary to purchase a new one exactly the same. It is installed on a flat hard surface, and the inner surface is thoroughly lubricated with oil. The bearing is mounted on the hub, and a solid, even mandrel is placed on top of it. With light blows of a hammer, it is necessary to press the bearing into place. This must be done carefully so that the bearing enters evenly. When it reaches half of the hub, more powerful blows can be applied.

After the bearing is inside the hub, use the old bearing instead of the rim and drive the new one to the end. After the bearing rests against the inner part of the hub, a locking element is installed on top.

Now put the hub back in place and install the washer. Next, a new hub nut is screwed up to the stop (since it is disposable). After that, all the brake elements are assembled, and the drum is installed. Don't forget to cut and remove the threads from the brake cylinder. The wheel is put in place and tightened.

Video - How to change the bearing of the rear hub VAZ

This completes the replacement of the rear wheel bearing.