It happens - you need to urgently start the car, and the battery is dead! You have to deliver the "lighting wires" and wait - and if the passing by will agree to "light up" your car.
But, it's good if you're in the city! Then you can simply remove the battery and charge it. And if the nearest housing is 30 kilometers away, and even on the street it is cold under -20?
In this case, a device such as the Jump Starter comes to the rescue.
On Aliexpress, such devices are a dime a dozen. What only they do not build in additionally is flashlights, chargers for smartphones and other butor, which is rarely used by anyone. And the price of the device grows exorbitantly with each revision.
But, let's think - what is really needed to start the car?
Really - only a powerful battery and wires for connecting an external battery to an existing one.
At the time of starting the starter, there is a strong load on the battery and, according to the laws of physics, it gives a voltage drop, as a result of which the starter simply cannot crank the engine. The current consumption at the car factory is about 200 amperes. Often a regular lead-acid battery lacks power due to hypothermia.
When an external battery is connected, the standard car battery starts charging. It takes 10-15 minutes for the chemical processes to begin and the density of the electrolyte to rise and the increased power to start the motor. In addition, an external battery connected in parallel also helps when the starter is running, taking on part of the load.
By the way, when starting a car with a manual gearbox, be sure to depress the clutch! By doing this, you will reduce the load on the starter, since you do not have to turn the box to transfer it with viscous (due to cold) oil.
Watch the video below - it starts a car with an old battery (7 years of operation), which froze after 4 days of not using the car at a temperature of about -20 degrees.
The video clearly shows that when you try to start the starter squanders the lead acc to the point that the on-board electronics turn off and the clock is reset to 00:00. The starter can't crank the engine even once!
But a LiPo battery from a radio-controlled model comes to the rescue (they have a large current output), with the LiPo connected, the car starts easily.
So it turns out that you can just buy only a high-capacity LiPo battery and use it to start the car.
So, you will need a powerful 4S LiPo battery, a charger for it and wires to connect it.
Where to Buy a Homemade Jump Starter Kit
ZOP Power 14.8V 5500mAh
Buy: Bang Good
HTRC H4AC 20W 2A
Buy: Bang Good
150mm XT60 Female Plug
Buy: Bang Good
In fact, after receiving a LiPo battery, you only need to charge it before traveling to remote places (in winter, LiPo should be carried warm, preferably in an inside pocket of a jacket, the same applies to factory jump starters). In case of problems with starting the car - just connect the wires and start the car!
Good luck on the roads!
I don't think it's necessary to talk about the usefulness of a manual starter. When starting a motor by the propeller, there is always a chance of "getting" a blow from the propeller blade on the fingers. To protect your fingers, you need to put on a glove, or a special fingertip, or wrap electrical tape around your fingers, etc.
The manual starter does not allow touching the propeller blades, it scrolls the motor shaft up to 10 or more revolutions at once, which makes it easier to start. The starter offered to the attention of society has a body-handle made of ebonite. The reel, on which the tape is wound from a strong fabric, is set into rotation when the tape is pulled sharply from the handle. The reel is made integral with the axis and the cylindrical "cup" where rubber with a reverse cone is pressed. There are 2 bearings on the axle. The rear bearing is installed inside the handle, and the front bearing is installed in a spacer through which this entire assembly is fixed in the handle body. On the side of the axis opposite from the "cup" there is a cutout in which one end of the rubber band is fixed. The rubber band passes through the handle and is fixed in the lid at the opposite end (if I may say so). There is a pin in the lid to prevent spontaneous unwinding of the tourniquet (it is visible in the photo). 
In the manufacture of the "cup", a shoulder is made inside it, which keeps the rubber cone from falling out. The cone is made like this: without removing the "cup" from the lathe chuck, a piece of sheet rubber 20-25 mm thick is attached to it. and the quill of the tailstock of the lathe, when the lathe is running, the rubber is pressed into the "cup". The cone is cut out with a scalpel or other narrow sharp knife. After that, the surface of the cone is processed with sandpaper. The starter is assembled as follows: the rubber band is pulled through the handle, fixed with a wire pin on the coil axis, and the opposite end of the bundle is also fixed with a pin on the cover. For the cover, the harness is twisted clockwise until the handle on the tape rests against the handle housing. The starter is ready to start. I had to use this starter to easily start a homemade 8.5cc engine in winter at a temperature of -18 degrees. Regards for reading, Lev.
Alteration of a starter for internal combustion engines for autonomous power supply fromlipo
Until now, I have used a conventional starter for my ICE models, that is, one that is powered by a battery in the starting box. It's not very convenient. A coiled wire with terminals has to be stretched, it always strives to get under a rotating screw, and still got a couple of times!
I saw in the field how some modellers attach a high-capacity lipo to the starter, which immediately makes the starter independent of the starting box. The only thing I didn’t like was that someone wrapped the battery with tape, while for someone it just hangs on the wires. This did not seem like the best solution, and I decided to build a special battery container that would become part of the starter. This starter served as an analogue: Turnigy Lipoly Belt Drive Starter(Parkflyer, HobbyKing)
At first, I simply cut the starter power wire and soldered the XT60 connectors. So on occasion I can use the starter as before, using the starter box.
And after thinking about what to make a container from, I stopped, in my opinion, at the simplest solution. The container was a segment of a plastic box for electrical wiring with a section of 80 x 40 mm. The top picture shows a ready-made device in which the starter is powered by two lipolets with a capacity of 2600 mah each.
(I ask you not to pay attention to the stickers. As Kozma Prutkov wrote: “If you see the inscription “buffalo” on the elephant’s cage, don’t believe your eyes!” There are other symbols on the reverse side. I bought it in a hobby shop in Beijing.) attach? I don't have models for them. But on occasion, they are simply removed from the container and can go into flight.
The container is simply screwed to the bottom of the starter, as holes are prudently made in the paws of the latter. The ends of the box cut off with a margin were carefully bent, and then carefully welded to the sides with a soldering iron. This is the most reliable way for this plastic, as it does not stick well.
Then I soldered a splitter to bring two batteries to one connector. They have T-shaped connectors, which I don't really like.
For additional protection of the container, it is glued on the outside with reinforced tape, and lined with foam rubber on the inside to protect the batteries from careless handling of the starter. The device has been tested and is working.
Success in creative work!
Most often, aircraft modelers who have models with an internal combustion engine in their household use purchased starters, but the starter is a simple thing and, if desired, it is easy to make it yourself.
Let's start by preparing the necessary parts for assembling a homemade starter for model aircraft engines.
In the car market, you need to purchase electric motors for the VAZ-2108 stove, as well as the corresponding spring bushing. In addition, care should be taken to have two 70x5 screws on hand, which are used to fasten the cores of the locks. All other details can be easily found in almost any household.
Step 1. You need to cut the spring bushing by 30 mm. On a lathe, a glass is machined from duralumin specifically for the sleeve. Usually the dimensions are taken by eye. It should be remembered that after the groove of the inner surface of the glass is made, you need to attach a rubber bushing (so that it enters with a slight interference) and take care of boring under the coca cone in order to maintain alignment.
Step 2. A flat is machined on the motor shaft. The locking bolt from the glass should rest against it.
Step 3. It is necessary to make two racks from textolite: front and rear. The front one is mounted with two M4 screws, a thread is made specially for them in the case. Long screws are used to fasten the rear rack, which must pass through the limited bushings. The length of the tubes can be chosen experimentally, the main thing is that it is convenient to hold the finished starter. Racks are fastened together with a hairpin for rigidity.
Step 4 A special tin casing is being prepared for the back.
When switching, there are some problems, as well as several ways to get the finished device.
1 option
You can take the axial play of the motor rotor. The rotor will move along the axis when the bushing is pressed against the coca. As a result, it touches the contact plate, after which the circuit closes and all elements begin to spin.
Option 2
A homemade button in most cases has the shape of a hook-trigger. With its help, the contact is closed to the housing.
3 option
The engine is powered by a relay that is switched by a homemade button.
In this case, such a button is a Chinese consumer goods. For it, you need to make a tin casing, as well as a bracket. The dimensions of the device allow you to install the relay only outside the starter.
The wires are pulled inside the stator in the free space between the pressure plates and several magnets. At the end they are connected to the button.
Experts give some very important recommendations. So, for the manufacture of the front and rear racks, either plywood or textolite 10 mm thick should be used as a material. Their total length can be made longer, an emery cloth is attached to the side panels.
If such a starter is attached to an engine with a volume of not more than 5.6 cm3, then it works well, it turns easily, so there are no malfunctions in the work process.
And here is an explanation - why do we need an electric starter for a radio-controlled model aircraft:
More about homemade radio-controlled models.
This idea was not born by chance. The fact is that on my model sometimes the engine stalled at high speeds. Patience snapped when the spring snapped and eventually the lanyard of the manual starter broke ...
To begin with, I purchased a gearbox on an internal combustion engine, which I replaced the old manual starter with ... 
Well, directly the electric motor from the screwdriver 
But here is a problem (There is not enough space. I had to make a gearbox that would move the electric motor away from the gearbox on the internal combustion engine. I started by making a case for this gearbox. 
.
It may seem strange that there are so many gears, but I had to make such a "row" in order, as I said, to move the electric motor away, due to lack of space. And I made a spacer between the plates from moisture-resistant plywood. 
And finally, the result 
A bit miserable, so I decided to grind on sandpaper) 
As you can see in the photo, a pin is installed on the drive shaft to engage with the gearbox on the internal combustion engine. 
Now it's time to install this miracle on the car. Long thought how to do it. And here's what I thought... 
And finally, all together... 
Although the model has become heavier by 300 grams)) But it starts up soooo much !!! And + better grip!!
And here is the video report:
In the very near future I plan to connect all this to the 3rd channel. I will describe the details in the second part of the article ... In the meantime, I am waiting for the arrival of the details necessary to complete the project!
