Removing the rear hub of the VAZ 2110. What is the rear hub bearing, how does it work and how to replace it? Why a bearing in a hub

During the movement of the car, a specific hum may occur, changing the tone to low at low speeds or noise with a possible rattle at high speed. Such troubles can create a hub bearing. The performance characteristics laid down by the manufacturer should allow the driver not to think about this wheel element for a long time.

However, road realities make their own correction. The primary reason a rear hub bearing needs to be replaced is not physical wear, but mechanical deformation. The driver does not have time to notice all the holes on the road, and for the failure of vulnerable parts, it is enough to get into only one of them.

A constant rumble from the rear wheels should alert the driver, and it is necessary to stop in the nearest place and check the bearing's performance. The term of its high-quality work is usually about 100 thousand kilometers. While approaching such a parameter, you need to start diagnosing their condition.

For this to work, you will need to do the following:

• required lock the wheels located diagonally to the ones being diagnosed, because you need to check on both sides, since in the cabin it is not always clear where the noise is coming from;
• jacked up spin the wheel as much as possible hands until a familiar rumble is heard, usually a characteristic problematic sound is noticeable almost immediately, because a high-quality bearing works without rattle, crunch and buzz;
• on a doubtful wheel, it is worth checking the transverse play using a simple procedure, holding the wheel, you need to shake it away from you and towards you, and the presence of a noticeable movement is an indication for replacing the bearing.

You need to know that most car dealerships offer a hub assembly with a bearing, but if the bore diameter has no wear or deformation, then you can not change the hub, but buy a separate repair bearing.

Replacement procedure

Before changing the rear wheel bearing, we block the car with the help of wheel chocks. We loosen the fasteners on the diagnosed wheel. Also, having got rid of the central cap, we release the central nut by 1-2 turns. Now you can jack up this side.

We install safety racks under the body and remove the wheel. The seat of the brake drum can be filled with WD-40 to facilitate dismantling. In some cases, brake fluid or diesel fuel is used. Before unscrewing the guide bolts, they are usually tapped with a copper hammer so that the “sticky” thread “succumbs”.

Dismantle the brake drum. In problematic cases, a special remover is used for such an operation, and for easier situations, bolts are screwed into the thread intended for them, with their help an interference is created for removal.

Step 1. Remove the cap Step 2. Unscrew the nut with a puller Step 3. Remove the hub with a puller Step 4. We take out the ring and prepare the bearing Step 5. Press the bearing with a puller Step 6. Mount the hub back Step 7. Rolling the Nut

Remove the central nut and stretch the entire hub along the axis. Sometimes a bearing race remains on the shaft, then using a puller or chisel, dismantle it separately after the hub. We carry out the operation so as not to damage the landing surface.

We inspect the axle to detect rotation of the bearing cage. If there are such traces (the presence of grooves on the landing diameter), then the hub will also have to be changed.

You need to know that the formation of serifs with a chisel or a breakdown on a worn surface for a more rigid fit of the bearing race is strictly unacceptable! It is necessary to change the worn hub completely in such a situation!

The current replacement of the rear wheel bearing can be carried out with concomitant diagnostics of other elements. It is worth simultaneously checking the brake cylinder for leaks, and the brake pads are monitored for wear.

Using a removable tool, we take out the retaining ring, and if necessary, fill in special cleaning fluid under it to make the bearing easier to press out. It is customary to use one of three popular methods for dismantling the outer race from the hub:

1. using a hydraulic press, which is not found in every garage;
2. reusable puller, its cost is affordable, and you can use the unit in the future;
3. with a hammer or sledgehammers 2-3 kg, for this method a special spacer of the appropriate diameter is required.

We install the hub on a hard surface and apply a couple of blows on the prepared mandrel with a hammer. This is done carefully so as not to damage the seating surface with a mandrel or other parts with a heavy hammer.

The surface freed from the clip can be cleaned with fine sandpaper from possible corrosion spots and then lubricated with oil (working off is allowed). It will facilitate the installation of a new bearing, which must first be assembled using two washers and a bolt. The outer diameter of the washers should be 2-3 mm smaller than the bearing diameter.

Lubricants can be added to the double row separator before assembly. With the help of a hammer, preferably with a copper or bronze ending, lightly tap on opposite sides to "plant" the bearing.

You need to know that bearings are made from high-alloy steel, which can crumble under strong dynamic loads (sharp impacts), so it is recommended to use a “soft” copper or bronze spacer so as not to damage the cages.

If at the initial stage the entry turns out to be tight, then there is probably a bias, so it is worth leveling it with light blows, and not applying unnecessary force. When the new clip comes in half, the old one can be used as a spacer. We continue until the groove for the retaining ring appears. We fix the bearing with a ring.

Hub mounting

We get rid of the tightening device from the bolt and two washers. Now you can return the hub to its place. Be sure to install a new central nut, having previously lubricated the thread with "lithol" or other lubricant.

We install the brake drum on the fasteners. We put the wheel and fix it with fixing bolts. We turn the wheel "by hand" and listen to extraneous noise. The absence of a hum or rattle, as well as free rotation, indicates the correct assembly.

We lower the wheel with a jack, and only after that we carry out the final tightening of the central nut. It is recommended to use a torque wrench for this operation. The preload value should be close to 20 kg/m. This value is quite large, so without a special key, you will need to increase the key length. Now the hook can be centered and the mounting bolts on the wheel can be tightened to the required torque.

while tapered bearings were used in VW cars, they were the most frequently replaced parts, consumables. Even with constant backlash control, any hole could damage the clip or rollers and provoke premature failure. Therefore, it will be useful to master the technology of replacing a bearing, perhaps, for every owner of an elderly VW 🙂

The hub into which the outer races of the bearings are pressed (and there are two of them for each wheel) are the drums (or discs) themselves. Therefore, the first step is to remove the drums. But over time, they wear out, and the resulting shoulder can interfere, so you need to bring the pads together first. To do this, it is necessary to raise the wedge of the self-breeding mechanism. If we had x-ray vision, it would not be so difficult to find it with our eyes.

To the touch, this is done as follows: in the upper hole for the wheel bolt facing the front of the car, you need to insert a flat screwdriver, feel for the connection of the spring and the wedge, and leaning on the drum itself, pry and lift it. Approximately it looks like this:

Now the drum spins easier and can be removed without problems.

Remove the cap covering the bearing. If we are talking about replacement, then in the kits of normal manufacturers there is always a new one, and the old one can be knocked off with a screwdriver or a chisel. If you plan to adjust or repair the brakes, it is advisable to remove the cap carefully.

There is a pin under it

Unclench the antennae and pull it out

We remove the crown retainer, unscrew the nut with a 24 wrench

We remove the puck

And now you can remove the drum, evenly pulling it towards you

Usually it is removed with both bearings, then they can simply be removed with a screwdriver and thrown away

But if you miss the moment when the backlash appeared, the bearing can start spinning on the trunnion and stick to it

To remove, you need to destroy the separator, remove it, rollers and stuffing box

After removing the grease, we will also find the inner clip

With a thin chisel it can be moved from its place

in extreme cases, you have to cut with a grinder

Now we can return to the drum. It still has two outer clips pressed in. After removing the remaining grease, you can find three recesses in the casting, through which the reverse sides of the clips are visible.

It is through them that you need to knock out the clips with a punch, a screwdriver and even a chisel

It is advisable to thoroughly wash the insides before pressing in new clips.

We open the box with a new bearing. According to my personal statistics, the best bearings are made by SKF. But a very worthy and more budgetary alternative can be considered FAG

We put a new clip in the drum (do not confuse directions!)

For precise pressing, I personally ordered special mandrels from the turner

They accurately repeat the shape and size of the clip

But for a one-time job, an old clip sharpened on a grinder will do.

Pressing, of course, preferably with a press. In extreme cases, the vise will come off. Some even manage to use a hammer 🙂 The main thing is that the clip should go in without distortions, and all the way. There should be no gaps

We wipe the clips again, and begin the assembly. Apply grease to the inner bearing race

on the bearing itself

Put it in the drum

The end part is also filled with grease.

Then we remove the grease from the part where the stuffing box will be pressed in. If this is not done, it may fall out over time.

We put the gland and press it into place with our fingers

We turn the drum over and repeat the procedure (excluding the oil seal) with a small bearing

Before installing the drum in place, we conduct an audit of the state of the brake mechanisms.

The wedge of the mechanism must be fully raised

The pads must have the same clearance from the edges of the anther

Holding the outer bearing with your finger, put on the drum

We put on a thick washer, controlling that the nose that prevents it from rotating falls into the groove

We bait the nut, tighten it first with our fingers, and then with a 24 key, while simultaneously rotating the drum

tighten the nut until it remains possible to move the thrust washer with a flat screwdriver

I have been doing it my own way for many, many years, and so far this method has not failed:

I tighten the nut with a wrench, while rotating the drum, until it stops. And from this position I loosen the nut 1/4 turn

We put a crown lock on the nut so that the hole in the hub and the slots coincide

We insert the cotter pin and push the ends apart

We put on a cap (there is no particular point in stuffing grease into it). I ordered a special mandrel for this purpose, so as not to deform it

We put on the wheel, twist, then stagger in a vertical plane.

It should spin easily, should not stagger :-)

And remember that backlash control lies with the owner of the car, and it must be done regularly, the first 500 km, and then every time the car, for whatever reason, ends up with the rear wheels hung out.

No vehicle component is subjected to such a load as the chassis. Hence the large number of faults. A good example of this is the rear wheel bearing. According to the plan and calculations of the designers, it must serve regularly for at least 100,000 km. run. But domestic roads and improper operation make their own adjustments. Very often the bearing fails without having served even half of the resource.

In this case, you can not pull with a replacement. It's not even that a bad bearing will cause an even more serious malfunction. In this case, we are talking about security. No need to think that such complex repairs can only be done in a car service. It is quite possible to replace the rear wheel hub bearing yourself.

Symptoms and Causes

Consider how to check the rear wheel hub bearing. Unlike many others, this fault can be localized with almost 100% accuracy. And by virtue of this, it is not only experienced, but also novice motorists, if you know the characteristic signs. The main ones are:

• Extraneous noise while driving. It is often mistakenly confused with the "howl" of the box, but in this case the sound does not disappear even when switching to neutral.
• An unpleasant sound is especially noticeable in the back seat, from the side of the faulty wheel;
• When cornering, a clear braking of the faulty side is felt, and in especially severe cases, clicks are heard;
• Wheel heating while driving.

All these are indirect symptoms, upon hearing which the motorist should be alert and conduct a more detailed check. To do this, using a jack, hang a supposedly faulty wheel. Now you need to unroll it well.

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A hum is heard - bad, but not yet fatal. Grasping the wheel with your hands from above and below, you need to shake it vertically. If there is play - the bearing is in a landfill.

What is it coming from? Surprisingly, only a third of the bearings "die" from the natural wear of metal parts. The remaining two-thirds are due to the following reasons:

• Manufacturing defects;
• Severe operating conditions. For example, constant driving on country roads at high speed;
• Lack of timely service. As a rule, lack of lubrication and dust and dirt on the bearing;

In addition, there is another reason - incorrect installation during a previous repair. However, this can be easily avoided if, before self-replacing the rear wheel hub bearing, study the sequence of work in advance and focus on some details.

Do-it-yourself rear wheel bearing replacement

Any repair of the running gear of the car cannot be called simple. Not because it requires special education and special skills. The difficulty, first of all, lies in the complexity of the repair. Removing some parts requires decent effort and a lot of patience.

We must be prepared for this in advance. You can’t drive a car with a half-disassembled rear hub into a service. If the determination is not lost - first of all, you need to stock up on a tool.

Tools and accessories

To change the rear wheel hub bearing with your own hands, you will need:

• Jack and suitable wooden support;
• The socket wrench, as a rule, is 30 and a suitable piece of pipe, as an amplifier for the crank;
• Key 12, for disc guides;
• balloon wrench;
• Round-nose pliers for removing retaining rings;
• Hammer;
• Chisel;
• Universal puller. You can do without it, but this requires some experience. Therefore, it is better to buy it, it is also suitable for the front hub bearing.
• Mount.
• And, of course, a new bearing. It does not need to be taken out of the package ahead of time to prevent dirt from entering.

How to change the rear wheel bearing on the VAZ 2110: sequence of actions

First you need to break the wheel bolts, and raise the car with a jack.

Attention, in no case should work be carried out on a car installed on one jack, it is imperative to additionally use a wooden stand of suitable dimensions.

This is due to the great effort that will have to be applied in the process of work. A car on a jack will be very unstable. The further course of action is as follows:

• The bolts are unscrewed and the wheel is removed;
• Now you can remove the hub boot.
• The wheel guides are unscrewed. Sometimes this is not easy to do, they "sour" in aluminum. The main thing here is not to disrupt the edges, so there is no need to rush;
• Next, the brake drums are removed. It all depends on how long they haven't been filmed. Sometimes they are dismantled "by hand", and sometimes you have to knock with a hammer, through a tree, from the back. There is another way. The guides are screwed into special holes. It must be borne in mind that the pins cannot be used to remove the discs, this will lead to the destruction of the aluminum thread. You can only twist them to a slight stretch, and then try to knock the disk through the tree. Should help.
• The hub nut is unscrewed. You'll have to try - it is twisted very tightly. Therefore, the collar is reinforced with a piece of a suitable pipe. Care must be taken as the vehicle will wobble.
• The hub is removed. Here, of course, it is better to use a three-legged puller. However, not everyone has it, so you have to use the "proletarian" method. It consists in the following. A wheel is installed on the hub and bolted, but not completely, but so that there is a gap of several centimeters between the disk and the hub. Thus, a kind of reverse hammer is obtained. With a few sharp jerks of the wheel, the hub can usually be removed. And that's already half the battle.
• Using round nose pliers inserted into the corresponding holes, the retaining ring is removed.
• The old bearing is pressed out or simply knocked out with a universal puller;
• The axis of the hub is carefully examined. Sometimes the clip of the old bearing remains on it. It needs to be removed. The bearing is removed, you can proceed to install a new one. But first you can inspect the working brake cylinder. If it has leaks, you will have to change it so as not to remove the drum again later.
• The axle and hub are inspected for damage, cleaned of dust, dirt and rust, and lubricated with Litol type grease.
• The new bearing is pulled out of the package, its cage is also easily lubricated along the seat;
• Using a universal puller, the bearing is installed in place. In the absence of a tool, the bearing can be pressed in with a vise. In this case, the clip of the old one is used as a mandrel. It is not recommended to hammer the bearing with a hammer, this can lead to its destruction.
• Now you can install the retaining ring;
• Carefully, using a mandrel or a pipe of suitable diameter, with light blows, the hub is put in place;
• Fixed with a nut;
• The brake drum is put in place, the guides are twisted;
• The wheel is spinning. For the sake of interest, it is worth trying to shake and twist it. There will be no extraneous sounds and backlash.

How to change the rear hub bearing on a VAZ 2110 video

Outcome

After removing the car from the stands and the jack, you can test it on the go. The enjoyment of silence and satisfaction from the work done will be provided. And most importantly, now there is confidence in the reliability and safety of your car.

The rear hub bearing VAZ 2109 can be changed in several ways. The quality of the repair depends on the "correct" choice. Below you will find detailed instructions describing each method. You can decide for yourself which is closer to you. At the service station you will not be asked what is best, and they will do it their own way. This is a good reason to delve into the "topic" and make a replacement yourself, especially since such repairs are within the power of everyone.

Causes and symptoms of the need for replacement

The rear wheel doesn't need to turn, so the mounting system is quite simple. The bearing, tightly pressed into the hub, rotates on the shaft. Backlash is not allowed in the design, and rotation must be smooth.

A good wheel bearing usually lasts at least 100 thousand km, but the quality of the roads makes its own adjustments. The main enemies are holes and dirt. A strong blow can damage the part very quickly. Do not forget about natural wear and tear.

Such damage is hard to miss. While driving, you will hear a clear howl or hum in the rear of the car (intensifies in turns). For a more “targeted” check, you need to jack up the rear wheel and spin it strongly (if possible). If you hear noise during rotation, it's time to change. Knocks during transverse "stirring" mean an extreme degree of wear. In the latter case, do not delay the repair.

Check both wheels. By ear, it is not always possible to correctly determine the side. We found a breakdown, now we move on to preparation.

Necessary tool for work on the VAZ 2109

The complexity and speed of repair directly depend on whether you have a special tool. There is a minimum required set:

• a hammer (where would it be without it) and a wooden block or a small board;
• pliers for removing retaining rings (an alternative is an awl or a thin screwdriver);
• key or head for 12;
• head 30 with a knob (to unscrew it easier, extend the knob with a pipe).

To speed up additionally use:

• three-legged puller for the hub;
• two-legged puller for the inner race of the bearing;
• universal puller for pressing in / pressing out;
• chisel.

For alternative methods without the use of pullers, see further in the instructions.

When choosing a bearing, pay attention to the Saratov bearings with the SPZ marking and the Vologda bearings (VBF). Bearings from Samara are notorious, and imported ones are not worth the extra money. Therefore, the first two options are the best combination of price and quality.

How to replace the rear hub bearing: instructions

1. We will not describe the removal of the wheel. Most importantly, do not neglect your safety - substitute an additional stop under the threshold of the car (an unscrewed wheel, a stump, a special stand). Before removing, you need to remove the central plug and align the locking “shoulder” on the mounting nut (a flat screwdriver or a chisel will help). Now “tear off” the nut with a 30mm socket (turn counterclockwise). At this point, the wheel must be on the ground or an assistant is needed to press the brake pedal hard.

   "Tear off" the nut Straighten the bead Remove the cap

2. The next step is to remove the brake drum. There are possible complications here. During operation, it often "sticks". Immediately unscrew the guides, then screw them into adjacent holes of the same diameter and continue to twist until the disk moves.
3. If it “does not go” or the thread is broken, then knock down the drum with blows from the back side. Use a rubber mallet or a mallet along with a block of wood to avoid chipping.
4. Now you have direct access to the hub. Unscrew the nut completely and remove the washer from under it.
5. There are three ways to remove the hub from the seat:
   • If you're lucky, you can take it off with your hands. Pull jerkily towards you or use the pry bar as a lever. Bad luck? See below.
   • Screw two long (15–20 cm) bolts into the wheel mounting points. Screw them in until the hub moves from the “dead” point (in the fourth step, you removed the brake drum in a similar way).
   • Use a special three-arm puller.
6. If you screw the drum to the hub with the reverse side (photo below), then you can apply more force.

   Improving the grip Three-arm puller Using long bolts

7. After the withdrawal, you will also have several options for the development of events. Good - the bearing was removed completely, bad - the inner race remained on the shaft. In the latter case, you will have to fool around additionally. It is necessary to remove the brake pads and use a chisel to break the metal ring from its place. Now you can hook it with a puller with two paws or mounts (depending on what is available) and dismantle it. If notches remain after the chisel, they must be smoothed out with a file, otherwise the new bearing may not completely “sit down” in place.

   Repairing damage Mounting option Two-arm puller Using a chisel

8. To install a new part, you need to free up space. You can remove the defective bearing with a special puller or simply knock it out. In the second option, you need to choose a suitable emphasis.
   

   Do not forget to remove the retaining ring before "knocking out" or pressing out.

   You can beat without regret Use a special tool Pull out the retaining ring

9. If at the previous stage there was no point in protecting the bearing, then a new spare part should not be subjected to shock loads. Choose one of three pressing methods:
10. The hardest part is already over, it remains only to collect everything in the correct order. In order not to forget, immediately put the retaining ring in place. To fit the hub onto the shaft, use a spacer that fits the inner race of the bearing. With light blows of the hammer, “put” it in place. Just do not hit hard, the hub should "go in" easily. If not, clean and lubricate the seat.
11. Put the washer in place and tighten the nut by 30. Finally tighten it and tighten it when the wheel is on the ground. The rear hub is not adjustable, so you need to clamp hard, but with the presence of common sense (the wheel should spin freely).