Wiring diagram for a generator in VAZ cars. Wiring diagram for a generator in VAZ cars - Direction of rotation of the rotor - right

18.10.2019

The VAZ 2108 generator is one of the main devices in the electrical circuit of the machine. Without this device, starting the engine and normal operation of the car will be impossible, therefore, if problems are found, the unit must be checked and repaired as soon as possible. You can learn more about the principle of operation, diagnostics and repair of the device from this material.

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Device Description

Before we tell you how to check 2108 with your own hands, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the basic information about the device. To begin with, we will analyze the principle of operation and the device. A detailed diagram of the device is shown in the photo.

Principle of operation

The purpose of the node is to provide electrical appliances and vehicle equipment with energy, and first of all we are talking about the battery. In the event that the mechanism breaks, the battery stops charging in normal mode, and due to lack of voltage, the battery does not allow the operation of electrical equipment. When the charge of the device runs out, the car will simply stall, and it will not be so easy to start it later.

The system is powered by the rotation of the pulley, in which the belt is installed. The VAZ alternator pulley receives mechanical force from the crankshaft through the strap. The latter can be both wedge and poly-wedge.

Device Components

We will not fully list what components a generator on a VAZ 2108 car or a mechanism for a classic consists of, since the device for different generators is almost identical.

Consider the main elements:

A diode rectifier used to convert AC to DC.
The alternator belt that transmits power.
The pulley on which the strap is mounted.
Brush knot.
Voltage regulator relay, the purpose of which is to protect the battery from overvoltage.
A light bulb that is displayed on the dashboard. It is used to notify the driver about malfunctions in the operation of the device (the author of the video is the Engine Repair channel! And interesting!).

How to check the generator?

To check the performance of the node in your car, you need to perform the following steps:

Using a voltmeter, diagnose the voltage at the battery terminals. When the engine is running and the generator unit is operating normally, this parameter should be around 13.8-14.5 volts.
Try putting your hand on the body of the assembly with the engine running, you need to feel the vibration. If there is vibration, you will immediately notice it. Moreover, it may be due to wear of bearing parts.
You also need to diagnose the tension of the strap of the device, while the motor must be turned off. Press your finger on the strap - the deflection should be no more than 1.5 cm (the author of the video is Vyacheslav Lyakhov).

Typical malfunctions and methods for their elimination

In order to prevent the failure of the node, it is necessary to ensure its high-quality and timely maintenance. As you can see from the photo of the diagram, the assembly consists of many different components, so the probability of its failure due to improper maintenance is quite high.

So, in what cases is the VAZ generator repaired:

The control lamp on the tidy does not turn on, while the unit and all equipment are working normally. Most likely, the problem is an open circuit or a burnout of the indicator itself. In some cases, the reason is poor contact between the diode and the wiring, in which case it is only necessary to strip the contacts of the connection connector.
The indicator on the tidy, as well as the devices themselves on the control panel, do not work. Apparently, the reason for this is the failure of the safety element, which will need to be replaced. Also, the reason may be a broken or soldered wiring.
The control lamp lights up after starting the engine, while it disappears after the driver presses the gas. The essence of the problem lies in the fact that the generator unit is not excited at low engine speeds, in most cases this is due to the soldering of the resistor elements in the unit. Carry out their diagnostics and, if necessary, re-solder them.
Another malfunction - the indicator continues to burn when the engine is on, while the voltmeter needle on the tidy is in the red zone. In this case, there may be several reasons for the problem. First of all, it can be a slippage of the strap - you need to believe it and, if necessary, tighten it. Also, the reason may be a short circuit or a breakdown in the diode elements of the winding, much less often a malfunction occurs when the voltage regulator fails.
Another sign is that the indicator does not light when the engine is running, but the voltmeter needle on the tidy is in the red zone. In this case, you first need to diagnose the presence of contact between the regulator connector, as well as the brushes. If the contact is normal, then check the brushes (they may freeze), as well as slip rings, for the latter, the problem of oxidation is relevant. In addition, the cause of the problem may lie in the failure of the voltage regulator, usually it is a break in the wiring between the contact and ground. The same symptoms appear in the event of a short circuit on the positive valves of the rectifier element.
When the engine is running, the voltmeter needle is located in the red zone - such a symptom indicates damage to the voltage regulator. In particular, we are talking about a short circuit that can occur between ground and contact Sh. The problem can only be solved by replacing the regulator.
If the node is running much louder than usual, there may be several reasons for this. First, you should check the performance of the bearing elements, as well as the tightness of the pulley nut. In some cases, the loud operation of the unit is due to the squeak of the brushes. The brushes themselves may be of poor quality, but it is possible that the problem lies in the ingress of dust on the slip rings.

Issue price

The price of the issue in this case depends on the manufacturer.

The VAZ 2108 electric generator fails quite often. There are many reasons for equipment failures, and the consequences of ignoring such failures can be dire. Therefore, it is extremely important to pay attention to the maintenance of your car in a timely manner. Repairing an electric generator is an elementary process that even a car enthusiast with no experience can handle. It is enough to understand the principles of operation of such equipment.

The principle of operation of the device and its scheme

The electric generator serves as an autonomous source of energy in any car, it is designed to evenly recharge the battery. If the generator fails or wears out, the battery stops receiving the required amount of energy and cannot ensure the stable operation of the technical component of the machine.

As soon as its charge dries up, the vehicle stalls. Starting the car after this is not an easy task. To get a visual representation of the operation of an electric generator, its diagram is required. The scheme of the VAZ 2108 generator is shown in the figure. All the elements that are important in the operation of the device are numbered on it.

Electric generator.
negative diode.
spare diode.
positive diode.
Battery discharge control lamp.
Instrument block.
Voltmeter.
Mounting block.
Reserve resistors of 100 ohms.
Ignition relay.
Ignition power.
Accumulator battery.
Capacitor.
Rotary winding.
Voltage controller (available only in car models produced before 1988).

VAZ 2108 generator circuit. 1 - generator; 2 - negative diode; 3 - additional diode; 4 - positive diode; 5 - control lamp of the battery discharge; 6 - instrument cluster; 7 - voltmeter; 8 - mounting block; 9 - additional resistors of 100 Ohm, 2 W; 10 - ignition relay; 11 - ignition switch; 12 - battery; 13 - capacitor; 14 - rotor winding; 15 - voltage regulator

The electric generator on the VAZ 2108 is located under the hood of the car; it functions with the help of a special belt. The main causes of equipment failure are:

brush wear;
breakdown of the charging relay;
failure of the diode bridge;
rotor shaft bearing stopper.

Repair of the G8 generator

First of all, you need to determine the cause of the breakdown. This is done in the following ways:

the presence of sounds uncharacteristic for the operation of the car (bearing stopper);
low performance of the device (the belt of the VAZ 2108 generator has loosened, the brushes have worn out);
unstable output voltage (failure of the diode bridge).

To diagnose a breakdown, first of all, it is necessary to measure the voltage level on the battery using a voltmeter. To do this, release both terminals and connect the device. If the generator is in working condition, the voltage will be in the range of 13.8-14.5 V. After that, you need to start the engine and touch the generator cover with your hand to detect the vibration level.

In the event of severe wear of the bearings of the rotor shaft, the vibration will be quite noticeable. When working properly, it is practically non-existent. Then you need to check the level of belt loosening. To do this, turn off the engine and press on the belt with your fingers. It is considered serviceable with a deflection of no more than 1-1.5 cm.

After the initial diagnosis and identification of the problem, it is necessary to dismantle, disassemble and repair the device, and then install it back.

Dismantling the generator

Before removing the generator, you will need to turn off the engine, turn the steering column all the way to the right and look under the hood. On the 2108, the device is located at the bottom, to the left of the engine, next to the cooling radiator. Having found the generator, before starting work, do not forget to release the battery terminals. If you suspect brush wear, you should first remove the charging relay, which is located on the back of the generator housing.

It is secured with two bolts. Having unscrewed the hardware and disconnected the contact plug, it is necessary to inspect the condition of the brushes. If their resource is exhausted, you will need to purchase a new charging relay. This is determined by a simple measurement of the length of the brush, its size must be at least 4 cm. When the brushes are in working condition, it is enough to fix the relay back. In case of other problems, it will be necessary to completely dismantle the generator itself.

First of all, you need to disconnect the wiring, which is divided into 2 parts. The first one includes two red wires, they are connected to the back of the generator housing and secured with hardware. The second part consists of one red wire, it is connected to the generator terminal with a plug on the same side of the device. Having disconnected both wiring, you need to dismantle the generator in a certain sequence.

First, the hardware is untwisted, which are fixed on the belt tensioner bar (on top of the generator). Then the nut is unscrewed, securing the same bar to the motor block. After that, you need to unscrew the nut that secures the generator bracket to the motor block. Next, the belt of the device is removed, the hardware fastening the generator to the car body is unscrewed. Upon completion of these steps, the generator can be removed with a slight movement and proceed with its disassembly.

Device disassembly

For disassembly, you will need the following tools:

set of wrenches;
bearing puller;
vise.

With their help, the disassembly process will be significantly accelerated. Getting started, you need to unwind the hardware for fastening the rotor shaft with a key of 19. Usually they are fixed very tightly, so you will have to make a lot of effort. In the process of unwinding fasteners, it is important to remember their location, so it is recommended to make a rough sketch on paper. This scheme will help you not to get confused when assembling the device.

Position the generator with its back up and unscrew the 4 fasteners with an 8 wrench. This will allow you to open the front of the generator housing. There is a bearing, which is attached with plates. Unscrew the hardware fixing its plates and release the bearing from the socket.

If it does not lend itself, it is necessary to contribute to this with a wooden rail, the size of which matches the dimensions of the bearing. The unassembled part of the generator will need to be secured in a vise and the back of the housing pulled to release the element. Only the rotor shaft and one more bearing remain, which are dismantled with a puller. To do this, put the tool on the bearing and release it from the shaft seat.

Generator parts: 1 - voltage regulator assembly with brush holder for generators manufactured since 1996; 2 - voltage regulator and brush holder for generators manufactured before 1996; 3 - block output of additional diodes; 4 - insulating bushings; 5 - rectifier block; 6 - contact bolt; 7 - stator; 8 - rotor; 9 - remote bushing; 10 – internal washer of fastening of the bearing; 11 - cover from the drive side; 12 - pulley; 13 – an external washer of fastening of the bearing; 14 - coupling bolt; 15 - front ball bearing of the rotor; 16 - bushing; 17 - cover from the side of slip rings; 18 - buffer sleeve; 19 - clamping sleeve; 20 - capacitor

If you have diagnosed bearing wear, you must write down their markings and purchase new ones. There is no need to go to the parts store, taking bearings with you. It is not recommended to listen to the advice of sellers about similar bearings, which will also work. Buy products that strictly correspond to the markings of original parts.

Having dealt with the bearings, you will need to check the diode bridge, which is located inside the rear of the device case. If mechanical damage or oxidation is detected on the surface of the part, the bridge must be dismantled by unscrewing 4 fastening elements and replaced with a new one. The cost of all the above details does not exceed 800-1000 rubles. in total, so you can replace all at once if possible.

The VAZ-2108 generator is installed in the front of the engine compartment, driven by a flexible V-belt. Required to power the car's on-board network and charge the battery. The unit needs timely maintenance - if you do not make repairs, it will stop feeding the network, causing a lot of trouble.

The first signs that the generator is not working are a noticeable decrease in the brightness of the lighting and a voltage drop. But most importantly, the lamp on the dashboard lights up. Study the design of the figure-eight generator in order to independently maintain and repair it.

What is a generator for?

It is needed to power the on-board network when the engine is running. When stopped, the entire network is powered by a battery. If you independently replaced the VAZ-2108 generator or any other car, you saw that it has one power output. There are several wires connected to it:

The thickest one connects the alternator to the positive terminal of the battery. This is the wire that charges the battery. Please note that there are no fuses on it. Therefore, for any manipulations with the generator, it is necessary to de-energize the on-board network.
A thin short wire going to the voltage regulator is needed to power the excitation winding.
Rarely, but it happens that additional equipment is connected to this terminal of the generator.

The cars use a rather old, but proven design of the VAZ-2108 generator. The carburetor is used in the fuel injection system. On injection vehicles, the fuel injectors and ignition coils are powered from the power output of the generator. All other consumers take power from the positive terminal of the battery.

Generator design

There are several components that make up the generators used in cars:

Rotor - there is an excitation winding on it.
The stator is a fixed part, it consists of a magnetic circuit (made of transformer steel) and a power winding.
Front and rear covers - bearings are installed in them, necessary for the free rotation of the rotor.
Horseshoe-shaped rectifier block - consists of six semiconductor diodes.
Brush assembly in one housing with a voltage regulator.
Capacitor - allows you to get rid of the variable component of the generated current.
Slip rings - with their help, current is transmitted to the excitation winding of the rotor.

To set the rotor in motion, a VAZ-2108 generator V-belt is used. It is put on the pulleys of the crankshaft and generator.

Feature of the generator

A prerequisite for the functioning of any generator set is the presence of a magnetic field. Moreover, it should not be ordinary, but mobile. In the first year of studying physics at school, magnetic fields are considered, how they arise and their features.

If you bring a permanent magnet to the frame from some conductor, then no changes will occur. But if you force the frame or magnet to rotate, then a potential difference will appear at the edges of the conductor. It is this principle that is incorporated in alternators.

The operation of a car generator

But there is no magnet in the generator, its functions are performed by the excitation winding. Briefly, the states can be described as follows:

When the engine is stopped and the ignition is off, all vehicle systems are de-energized, no voltage is applied to the excitation winding.
When you turn on the ignition, a constant voltage is applied to the regulator.
The voltage regulator allows you to stabilize the value at the same level.
Further, the current is transmitted through the brushes and slip rings to the rotor winding.
There is a magnetic field, but it is stationary, so no voltage is generated at the power output. But it is, since this output is electrically connected to the positive terminal of the battery.
As soon as you start to turn the crankshaft with a starter (or even by pushing the car), the generator rotor rotates and current is generated.

After starting the engine, the generator takes over the main load on powering consumers of electricity, while the battery is being charged.

Removing the generator on the "eight"

To dismantle the unit for replacement or repair, you will need the presence of keys for "17" and a mounting blade. Be sure to generously treat all threaded connections before starting work to facilitate dismantling. The procedure is as follows:

Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
Unscrew the top nut securing the generator housing to the bracket.
Loosen the nut on the lower mounting bolt.
Slide the alternator housing towards the engine block and remove the belt.
Unscrew the nut from the power contact and take it to the side of the wire.
Remove the bottom mounting bolt.

After all these manipulations, you can completely dismantle the unit. This can be done both from below, if protection is not installed on the car, and from above.

Generator modifications

On newer cars VAZ-2109, 21099, 2110, generator modifications with the designation 94.3701 were installed. They have much more power than those used on eights. But the dimensions of the VAZ-2108 generator are the same as those of more modern ones installed on dozens. Therefore, they are interchangeable, but have different characteristics. Here are the differences:

The current strength of 94.3701 is 80 A, which is 25 A higher than that of the eight unit.
The voltage adjustment range on the generator 94.3701 is larger.
Higher gear ratio between the generator rotor and the engine crankshaft.

Installing a new unit is advisable if a battery with a larger capacity is used, and there are a lot of those in the system of electricity consumers that have a large capacity. And if you use standard electric cars, the battery will be discharged, it will not have enough current.

Disassembly of the figure eight generator

To carry out a complete repair, you will need to disassemble the entire unit. For this:

Disconnect the power cable of the voltage regulator and unscrew the two bolts securing its housing to the back cover.
With a “10” head, unscrew all the nuts that secure the back cover.
Gently push on the bolts to remove them slightly from the front cover. This will lock the rotor - the bolt heads will rest against the impeller.
Remove the nut that secures the pulley and impeller to the rotor.
Remove the pulley, being careful not to lose the key.
Remove the bolts.
Separate all parts using a flathead screwdriver.

That's all, now all the components are laid out, but it will take a few more manipulations to completely disassemble - the rectifier unit is still connected to the stator windings. But if you only need to replace the bearings of the VAZ-2108 generator, there is no need to remove everything else.

Bearing replacement

This breakdown occurs very often, there is a terrible whistle from the generator, a rattle. There is only one reason for the appearance of extraneous sounds - excessive wear due to exceeding the permissible resource or due to a strong belt tension. To replace bearings:

On the front cover, unscrew the bolts securing the strap.
Using a drift, drive the bearing out of its seat.
Wipe the metal so that there are no traces of metal or dirt on it.
Apply a small amount of grease to the new bearing.
Carefully press in the new bearing using a drift.
Fasten the plate with bolts.

It's even easier with the rear cover bearing - it is usually removed along with the rotor, it remains to be carefully knocked down.

Valve replacement

You can check the health of all valves with a multimeter and replace the faulty ones. Usually only two fail. But a prerequisite for the ideal operation of the rectifier is that the resistance of all semiconductors must be the same. Otherwise, there will be more tension in one shoulder and less in the other. Carefully read how the VAZ-2108 generator is connected so that you don’t confuse anything during assembly.

The easiest way to repair is to replace the entire horseshoe. If the voltage is low, the battery is not charging, but the belt is tensioned properly, the regulator is working, then a little “tuning” will be required. Several additional diodes must be introduced into the design in order to increase the output voltage. The method is more complicated - to identify which valves are out of order, replace them, solder the contacts well and fill them with epoxy to avoid a short circuit. It is unlikely that anyone will want to carry out so many manipulations, because a ready-made rectifier costs about 350-450 rubles.

Generator windings

One of the reliable nodes of the VAZ-2108 generator is its windings. You can check their performance using a multimeter or a probe on the lamp. To do this, connect the probes to the slip rings on the rotor - the lamp should light up. An ohmmeter will show the presence of resistance. At the same time, check if there is a breakdown on the body. The stator windings are checked in the same way.

If there is a break in the windings, or a short to the case, it does not make sense to rewind on your own - the task is too complicated. It is easier to find a similar part in the secondary market and replace it. You can contact the workshops involved in rewinding engines. But the amount of repair will be about the same as the cost of a new rotor or stator. In the secondary market, you can buy a fully working VAZ-2108 generator for 1000-2000 rubles, a new one costs twice as much.

Finally

It is immediately necessary to install new slip rings and a voltage regulator on a purchased generator that was previously in use. After installing the VAZ-2108 generator, check the battery charge. The voltage should be up to 14.7 volts. If lower, it is worth upgrading the diode block or checking the voltage regulator. It is also recommended to replace the bearings so as not to disassemble the unit several times.

The VAZ 2108 device, like any other vehicle, involves powering electrical circuits from a battery. To ensure that the battery is constantly in good condition and does not let you down at the most inopportune moment, a generator is always connected in tandem with it. The battery is especially important at the moment of ignition of the engine, while driving, when the car develops sufficient speed, the entire electrical circuit is powered by a generator.

When it becomes a question of connecting additional powerful electrical appliances to the car, it is very important to coordinate their load with the allowable power of the generator. To do this, it is important to know its technical characteristics. And if the indication of a lack of battery charge suddenly lights up, without understanding how the charging circuit is arranged, the voltage regulator and ignition, it’s better not to even look under the hood.

Brief overview of the model

We should understand that the electrical circuit for connecting the generator is similar in both domestic cars and foreign cars and includes a standard set of components:

the generator is a three-phase electrical machine that generates, respectively, a three-phase electric current, converting mechanical energy into electrical energy;
as a device for converting AC to DC voltage, as a rule, a three-phase diode rectifier is used, connected according to the Larionov scheme;
to protect the battery from overvoltages (the generator voltage directly depends on the engine speed), a voltage regulator is used in the circuit;
the health of the charging circuit can be judged by the indicator light on the instrument panel;
finally, the ignition key and the electrical relay working with it are necessary to turn on the generator and other electrical appliances in the car (which is why you should not leave the ignition on in the car for a long time, since the charging circuit also consumes current even when the car just stands still).

The generator rotor is a movable structural element of an electric machine; current is supplied to it through a special collector, along which graphite brushes run. If the charging circuit of the VAZ 2108 generator is faulty, which is confirmed by the corresponding indication on the instrument panel, the condition of the brushes should first be checked. Second in the ranking of possible problems are mechanical failures. These are the bearings of the rotor shaft and the loosened transmission strap.

Returning to how the electrical circuit works, we note that a voltage regulator can also let you down. To check this structural element, connect a control lamp or a multimeter set to measure DC voltage within the limit of up to 20 V to the current-collecting brushes of the regulator, connect the negative terminal of the battery to the regulator ground and apply + 12V to terminal B (C). If, by analogy, power the device with a voltage higher than 15 V, then the control lamp will not light up.

If none of the above recommendations helps, you should remove the generator itself, check the diode rectifier, as well as the condition of the stator and rotor windings. For this purpose, it will not be superfluous for you to know the technical characteristics of the device on the VAZ 2108 and its possible versions. Read more in the next section of the article.

VAZ 2108 generator, design features and specifications

The most common type of generator that can be found on the VAZ 2108 is the 37.3701 series model. Its main parameter is the output current. In our case, the maximum load is limited to 55 A (at 5000 rpm). The maximum regulated voltage is 14.6 V. The gear ratio from the engine to the generator has a multiplier of 2.04.

Some vehicles of the VAZ 2108 series are equipped with a model 94.3701 generator. A similar one can be found on a VAZ 2111 car. This electric machine is much more powerful than the basic configuration of the G8 and can deliver current up to 80 A in normal operation at 5000 rpm. The gear ratio from the engine to the generator has a multiplier of 2.4. The Slovenian version of this device is marked as AAK-5102, it is completely interchangeable, but has a slightly different internal layout of parts.

The mechanical force from the crankshaft of the power unit is transmitted to the generator shaft using a wedge (for 37.3701) or poly-wedge (for 94.3701) strap. You can find out which generator you have installed either from the passport for the car, or by reading the tag on the device itself. If none of the presented options is possible, they will help you to calculate the “comrade” at the service station on a special test bench.

1.
2. Bolt of fastening of the rectifier block;
3. contact rings;
4. Ball bearing of the rotor shaft on the slip ring side;
5. Capacitor 2.2uF-120% for suppression of radio interference;
6. Rotor shaft;
7. Common output wire for additional diodes;
8. Terminal "30" of the generator for connecting consumers;
9. Generator plug "61" (common output of additional diodes);
10. Output wire "B" of the voltage regulator;
11. Brush connected to terminal "B" of the voltage regulator;
12. Voltage regulator;
13. Brush connected to the output "W" of the voltage regulator;
14. Stud for fastening the generator to the tensioner;
15. Cover of the generator from the side of slip rings;
16. Fan impeller with generator drive pulley;
17. Pole tip of the rotor;
18. Bearing mounting washers;
19. Distance ring;
20. Drive side rotor shaft ball bearing;
21. Steel sleeve:
22. Rotor winding (excitation winding);
23. Stator core;
24. Stator winding;
25. Rectifier block;
26. Coupling bolt of the generator;
27. Buffer sleeve;
28. Sleeve;
29. Clamping sleeve;
30. Negative diode;
31. Insulating plate:
32. Phase output of the stator winding;
33. positive diode:
34. Additional diode;
35. Positive diode holder;
36. Insulating sleeves;
37. Holder for negative diodes;
38. Generator;
39. Battery discharge control lamp;
40. Voltmeter;
41. Mounting block;
42. Additional resistors of 100 Ohm, 2 W;
43. Ignition switch;
44. Accumulator battery.

On VAZ-2108, -2109 vehicles, a three-phase alternating current generator of type 37.3701 is used with a built-in rectifier unit and a microelectronic voltage regulator. It serves to supply consumers with electric current and to charge the battery. The maximum output current of the generator (at 13 V and 5000 rpm) is 55 A, and the adjustable voltage limits are 14.1 + 0.5 V. The main parts of the generator: rotor, stator, cover 1 with a rectifier unit 25, cover 15 s bearing 20, a pulley with a fan 16 and a brush holder with a voltage regulator 12. The covers and the stator are pulled together by four tie bolts 26. The generator rotor is a rotating electromagnet. Steel beak-shaped pole pieces 17 and bushing 21, pressed onto the rotor shaft 6, form the core of the electromagnet. Between the pole pieces in a plastic frame is the winding 22 of the rotor, called the excitation winding. The current is supplied to the winding through copper contact rings 3, to which the winding leads are soldered. The rotor shaft rotates in two ball bearings 4 and 20 installed in covers 1 and 15. Closed type bearings. The lubricant incorporated in them during manufacture is sufficient for the entire service life of the generator. The rear bearing 4 is pressed onto the rotor shaft, and its outer race is pressed by a rubber ring placed in the cover groove. The front bearing 20 is pressed into the cover 15 and, for reliability, is clamped between two steel washers 18, tightened with four screws. The ends of the screws are punched. The inner race of this bearing, together with the distance ring 19, is clamped by a pulley fastening nut between the pulley hub and the shaft step. The generator stator consists of a core 23 with a winding 24. The core is made of plates of electrical steel, connected in four places by electric welding. In the grooves of the core, a three-phase stator winding is laid, the ends of which are connected in a star without a zero point output. The rectifier that converts the alternating current of the generator to direct current is made in the form of a rectifier unit 25. It consists of two aluminum plates with six diodes of the VA-20 type pressed into them by semiconductor devices that pass current in only one direction. To simplify the design of the rectifier, diodes of different polarity "positive" and "negative" are used. For positive diodes, a “plus” of the rectified voltage is created on the case, and for negative ones, a “minus”. Positive diodes are pressed into plate 35 of the rectifier unit, and negative diodes into plate 37. The rectifier unit is attached to the cover 1 with three bolts 2, insulated together with the positive diode plate 35 from the cover with plastic bushings. The nuts of the bolts 2 simultaneously clamp the leads of the diodes and the stator winding. The terminal "30" (8) of the generator is connected to the plate 35, which is the "plus" terminal of the rectifier. The "minus" output is the mass of the generator. Three additional diodes 34 are also installed on the plate 35 of the rectifier unit. The voltage removed from these diodes is used to power the excitation winding 22 and the generator health monitoring circuit using a battery discharge warning lamp 39. The generator voltage is regulated by a microelectronic non-contact voltage regulator 12, fixed with a screw on the cover 1. This is a non-separable and unregulated unit and it completely lacks any electromagnetic relays with contacts. Closing or opening of the power supply circuit of the excitation winding of the generator occurs due to the opening or closing of a powerful output transistor in the regulator, depending on the magnitude of the control voltage at the output "B" of the regulator. A plastic brush holder with two brushes 11 and 13 is inserted into the groove of the voltage regulator, through which the excitation winding of the generator is fed. Brush I is connected to terminal "B" of the voltage regulator, and brush 13 is connected to terminal "Sh". This terminal is located on the inside of the regulator and is not marked on its body. Generator operation. When the ignition is turned on, the contacts "15 / 1" and "30/1" of the ignition switch are closed, then the contacts "30" and "87" of the ignition relay (not shown in the figure), and a current begins to flow through the excitation winding of the generator, closing along the path: "plus" of the battery terminal "30" of the generator 38 mounting block 41 contacts "30" and "87" of the ignition relay fuse "5" of the mounting block additional resistors 42 and in a parallel circuit through the lamp 39 terminal "61" of the generator terminal "B" of the regulator 12 voltage winding 22 excitation output "W", the output transistor of the voltage regulator "ground". The control lamp of the 39th battery discharge is on, signaling that the excitation winding is powered by the battery. The current flowing through the excitation winding creates a magnetic flux around the rotor poles. After starting the engine, the generator rotor rotates, and under each stator tooth passes either the south or the north pole of the rotor. Therefore, the magnetic flux passing through the stator teeth varies in magnitude and direction. This alternating magnetic flux crosses the turns of the stator winding and creates an electromotive force in it. The alternating voltage and current induced in the stator winding are rectified by the rectifier unit and the already rectified direct current taken from the terminal "30" of the generator is used to power consumers. At the same time, a rectified voltage is removed from the common output of additional diodes 34 to power the excitation winding of the generator. For a working serviceable generator, the voltage at terminal "30" and at the common terminal of additional diodes (plug "61") are the same. Therefore, no current flows through the control lamp 39, and it does not light up. In this case, the excitation winding of the generator is powered by a rectifier with three additional diodes, and the battery is charged by the generator. If the control lamp 39 is on, this indicates a malfunction of the generator, that it either does not give voltage at all, or it is lower than the battery voltage. In this case, the voltage at plug "61" (alternator voltage) is lower than the voltage at terminal "30" (battery voltage). Therefore, a current flows in the circuit between them, passing through the control lamp, and it burns. With an increase in the rotor speed, the generator voltage increases. When it starts to exceed the level of 13.6-14.6 V, the output transistor in the voltage regulator 12 is turned off, and the current through the field winding is interrupted. The generator voltage drops, the transistor in the regulator opens and again passes current through the excitation winding. The higher the frequency of rotation of the generator rotor, the longer the time of the closed state of the transistor in the regulator, therefore, the more the generator voltage decreases. The described process of locking and unlocking the regulator occurs with high frequency. Therefore, voltage fluctuations at the output of the generator are imperceptible and can practically be considered constant, maintained at the level of 13.6-14.6 V.