Washing oil filters. Flushing oil filters Reasons to buy original filters from well-known companies and the consequences of using low-quality fakes

Cleaning and washing filters

At each oil change in the engine, and under difficult operating conditions, at least after 500-1000 km of run, sediment is released from the coarse and fine filter housings. Before draining the sludge from the coarse filter with a rotating element, it is necessary to turn the handle several times. The handle should also be turned a few turns daily.

The coarse filter is recommended to be periodically disassembled and washed thoroughly. When flushing the plate element, it is necessary to release the nut that secures the plates on the rod. Rinse the element carefully so as not to wrinkle or bend the main and cleaning plates. Mesh or filament filter elements of YaMZ diesel coarse filters must be thoroughly washed and cleaned. It is also necessary to periodically flush the filters and pipelines of the crankcase ventilation system.

The filter element of fine filters must be replaced periodically. The element is changed on average after 2000-3000 km of run, and with a rapid darkening of the oil in the crankcase - more often. When changing the element, it is necessary to rinse the filter housing and clean the calibrated and bypass holes and reassemble the filter.

If you have a centrifugal oil cleaner, you need to periodically, after about 1500-2000 km of run, disassemble and clean the inside of the rotor from precipitation with a wooden scraper and rinse with gasoline or kerosene, as well as blow and clean the jets carefully. It is necessary to disassemble and assemble the cleaner carefully so as not to disturb the balance of the rotating parts. In case of significant deposits of dirt, the rotor must be cleaned more often.

When cleaning the oil with a centrifugal cleaner, the crankcase oil usually has a darker color than when using ASFO filters, since light, harmless soot particles are not separated from the oil. Therefore, the darkening of the oil in the case of installing a centrifuge does not determine the degree of contamination and the need for replacement.

For YaMZ two-stroke diesel engines, the fine filter element is changed simultaneously with the oil change after 1000-1500 km of run.

After draining the sludge, disassembling and washing or replacing the filters, it is necessary to fill them with oil by turning the crankshaft and adding oil to the crankcase.

Oil change, filter
Oil pollution in the engine occurs continuously, which causes increased wear and premature failure of rubbing parts. The resource and reliability of the internal combustion engine, its power and environmental performance depend on the purity of engine oil.

Contaminants are divided into two main groups: organic and inorganic. Organic impurities are formed as a by-product during the combustion of fuel, as well as thermal decomposition, oxidation and polymerization of oil and fuel. The situation is aggravated by reactions involving sulfur compounds and water.

Inorganic impurities are dust, technological pollution during the manufacture and repair of the engine, particles of mechanical wear of parts, as well as products of spent ash additives.

Oil pollution in diesel engines is more intense than in gasoline and gas engines. Therefore, "diesel" oils are produced with a special package of additives.

The technological process of changing the oil is quite simple and there is no doubt about its necessity:

Purchased oil, filter, flushing
Flushing is poured into the old oil and the engine runs for the allotted time (More details below)
The "old" oil is drained
The filter is changed and "new" oil is poured

Flushing is an important part of the oil change process.
When changing oil without flushing, a significant part of the contaminants remains in the engine, and these are: carbon deposits (soot, sludge, spongy formations), varnishes, paints.

Flushing:

Softens and removes carbon deposits, wear products, carbon deposits
Releases coked piston rings and stuck hydraulic lifters
Cleans oil channels, improving oil circulation
Provides a more complete drain of old oil
Safe for rubber seals, oil seals, valve stem seals

There are 2 types of washes - fast and soft.

Quick flush is poured into the "old" oil immediately before changing the oil and "works" for 5-10 minutes, radically cleaning the engine.

It must be used regularly from the very beginning of the operation of the car. It has a strong washing effect, if such a product is added to the oil of a "slagged" motor, solid mechanical particles can clog the oil receiver mesh, preventing normal oil circulation. And you can remove them from there only when disassembling the engine.

Soft washing is poured into the "old" oil and works in the engine for 200 - 500 km of run before changing the oil, in order to dissolve the accumulated deposits, varnishes, resins.

It is recommended to use "soft" flushes that act for a long time, they are much more careful with car parts. This is especially true for older engines with a large amount of solid deposits, where there is a possibility of chipping large pieces of soot, followed by the formation of dust scuffs and the likelihood of blocking the shaft channels.

Flushing oil may be used. It is more suitable for gasoline units. Flushing oil does not contain antifoam additives and foams easily. If the diesel engine is not of its first youth, then this foam is often sucked into the engine intake manifold through the crankcase ventilation hose, which can disable the latter.

Once flushed, the new filter and oil work more efficiently, extending engine life.
Oil drain
There are two ways to drain the oil:

Through the drain pipe installed in the oil pan
"suck" with a vacuum unit through the oil dipstick hole

Method one: drain

An important rule: before the procedure, the engine must be warmed up to operating temperature, otherwise mechanical impurities will remain at the bottom. Then you need to remove the old filter element. after the unit stops, a slight reverse flow of oil is observed, as a result of which dirt particles in the oil filter return to the crankcase. After that, you can unscrew the drain plug of the oil pan. In order for the old oil to completely drain from the crankcase, you must wait about 10 minutes! After completely removing the remaining oil, you need to wrap the drain plug, after carefully wiping it with a clean cloth. To avoid leakage from the system, it is advisable to install a new gasket on the plug at each oil change.

Second way: vacuum

The advantages of this method of draining the oil - it is environmentally friendly, does not allow accidental release of oil into the environment

The disadvantages of this method are that not all oil is removed from the crankcase, approximately 250 ml of dirty, used oil remains in the oil pump and oil receiver. The negative impact of incomplete oil extraction can be reduced by placing the vehicle on an inclined surface. If the car is tilted (usually backwards), it is possible to improve the flow of old oil to the inner hole of the oil dipstick channel and thereby increase the amount of lubricant removed from the system.

Oil filter replacement

Wipe the seating surface on the engine block with a clean cloth
Lubricate the o-ring of the new filter with clean oil so that the seal is not damaged when it is tightened.

Some servicemen suggest pouring about 1 cup of fresh oil into it before installing the filter.
This is not recommended for several reasons:

It is much easier for the oil pump to remove excess air from the system if the filter element is dry.
when installing the filter, part of the oil from it will inevitably spill out into the engine compartment, staining it. Subsequently, dirt will begin to stick to the oil stain and the engine will have to be washed

Oil filling
This procedure is best done with the probe extended. When the required amount of oil has already been poured into the engine (it is indicated in the technical documentation of the car), it is necessary to measure its level using a dipstick.

If the oil level is slightly above the "maximum" mark, it does not matter, after starting the engine, the oil channels will fill up and it will return to normal.

The first start of the power unit after changing the oil is a very responsible matter. The oil system is not yet filled and the lubricant cannot instantly get to all rubbing surfaces. When the ignition is turned on, the oil pressure warning lamp reminds of insufficient oil.

In order to protect the engine as much as possible from wear due to oil starvation, it is better to “turn the starter” for 5-7 seconds at the first start so that the pump can “pump” oil through the system. For this purpose, you can specifically turn off the ignition or fuel supply system so that the engine does not start ahead of time.

In a car with a diesel engine, it is problematic to start with a delay, so in this case we recommend not to increase the speed until the oil pressure warning light goes out. After letting the engine run at idle for about 1 minute, it is necessary to turn it off and, if necessary, add oil to the desired level, guided by the dipstick.
About engine oil compatibility
The issue of compatibility includes three: the compatibility of the same type of mineral or synthetic oils, or the compatibility of mineral and synthetic oils.

Mineral oil bases are compatible, but additive compatibility remains an issue that needs to be checked when developing a new oil grade. Various synthetic fluids (non-motor) are generally not compatible.

The American Petroleum Institute in its standards for motor oils specifies all their properties designed to ensure minimal engine wear, fuel consumption, reduce environmental pollution, etc.

It also strictly regulates the compatibility of manufactured or newly developed oils with existing and reference oils. No self-respecting company will allow itself to put on the market an engine oil that does not meet the API standard in at least one item or without having passed the full range of tests required by this standard.

Any engine oil that is about to be released is tested for compatibility with six reference oils. Tests include deep and long-term cooling of mixtures, high-temperature heating, holding at high temperature, subsequent repeated cooling, then taking rheological characteristics, building calorimetric curves, analyzing homogeneity and precipitation.

Tests are carried out with mineral and synthetic oils, high and low grades, diesel and gasoline. If the result of these tests is positive, subsequent tests are carried out, including expensive motor ones, if there is no oil, the candidate is suspended from further tests.

The oil will be on the market only if it meets this standard in all respects.

Conclusion: there can be no incompatible motor oils in the market for high-quality lubricants that truly comply with API. This statement has been proven for decades on the roads of Europe and America.

Another thing is that you need to be careful in this matter. Fake oils of well-known brands that appear on the market, the addition of dubious additives to the engine by the consumer, indeed often lead to negative consequences, manifested in the formation of clots, soot formation, gelation, followed by clogging of oil channels and engine shutdown.

This is already the current experience of many motorists who cannot always establish the true cause of such phenomena, attributing them to the incompatibility of mixed oils.

One of the main roles performed by engine oils is the removal of impurities, wear particles and contaminants from the areas of mating parts. But in order to keep the lubricant clean, it must be constantly cleaned of foreign contaminants. This role is successfully performed by the oil filter. With the development of the resource, it requires replacement.

One of the conditions for proper and long-term operation of the engine is the efficient functioning of the oil system. Efficiency is achieved in two ways:

• improving the composition of the oil through the use of a high-quality base base and the addition of a balanced package of various additives;
• using such a filter element, which perfectly cleans engine oil from mechanical impurities, turning the lubricant into an abrasive mixture.

Design

Oil filter design

The filter element is the main part of any oil filter. To clean engine oil, a part is used that is made from special paper, which is a thick layer of a combination of the thinnest threads of cellulose, synthetics and glass. To give the filter material strength, rigidity, and the required physical and chemical properties, it is impregnated with a composition based on phenol-formaldehyde resins.

After such preparation, the paper tape is folded into an accordion and wound on a perforated sheet metal tube. A cylindrical corrugation is formed - a filter cartridge - the ends of which look like a star with many rays. A thin metal ring is tightly glued to each end of the corrugation, which carefully seals the filtering paper cylinder. The quality of the adhesive (resistant to gasoline and oil) and the density of its layer determine the impermeability to leakage of unfiltered oil. This cleans the oil from mechanical impurities of 45 microns and more.

Another filter is used to leave a certain volume of oil in the oil cavities of the engine after it stops. This role is performed by a check valve in the form of a wide, complex configuration of a rubber cuff. When the engine is started, the oil, due to pressure, lifts the elastic edges of the cuff and rushes into the system. When the engine stops, the oil flows down into the crankcase and, with its weight, presses the cuff, which prevents it from draining further. The oil system remains partially filled.

Many parts have a bypass valve that operates to allow cold oil to pass directly into the oil system when the starter is turned on in the morning. This is necessary to facilitate starting the engine, because in this case the oil goes past the filter.

When and why to change

Scheme of the movement of oil in a full-flow oil filter

The filter element accumulates the maximum amount of contaminants over time and ceases to perform its main function. There is only one way out: replace the old oil filter with a new one.

In special cases, early replacement is required. If the check valve is made of low-quality rubber and stops blocking the oil system, the part must be changed immediately. This can be signaled by a long-lasting oil pressure lamp with the engine running. One of the reasons for its burning may be an empty oil system. The consequences can be very sad: while the lines are filled with oil, the rubbing parts work without lubrication. The result may be either increased wear of mating parts, or jamming of the crank mechanism.

If you continue to drive on a clogged one, you can quickly “kill” the engine. The fact is that the clogging of the filter element will not affect the circulation of the lubricant. It will bypass the filter by actuating the bypass valve. In this case, it will go uncleaned to the rubbing parts. The power unit will begin to wear out intensively, and the oil pressure indicator light will not light up. This situation is specially designed in the filter device. The developers have determined the service life of this device at 10 thousand kilometers, which coincides with the service life of high-quality engine oil.

The oil change schedule of all automotive manufacturers provides for the simultaneous replacement of the oil filter. The fact that it is clogged can only be guessed by indirect signs. First, you need to pull out the dipstick more often and visually assess the degree of oil contamination. Secondly, listen to the operation of the engine and monitor its power indicators. With intensive wear of the connecting rod and piston group, extraneous noise and knocks may appear, and the car will also become less responsive.

If you change the oil and oil filter yourself, pay attention to how much will leak out of it. A small amount of working off will tell you about the reliable operation of the check valve, which contributes to the durability of the engine. Since the design of the part in passenger cars is made non-separable, after the expiration date it is simply disposed of. It is useless to wash it with any solvent, since it is impossible to clean the paper from dirt. For trucks, the oil filter is collapsible, and only the filter element changes in it.

It is important to understand that the reliable operation of the oil system depends on the coordinated work of all its components. And the oil filter is one of the most important elements that ensure its efficient operation.

Video: Why change the oil filter

How not to make a mistake with the choice

Today, in order not to be mistaken with the choice of an oil filter, you need to buy the original brand that is put on the assembly line of the manufacturer. And if another brand, then only on the recommendation of official dealers. It is reliable, safe, correct. This is due to a large number of different versions of cheap filters by incomprehensible manufacturers, which differ not only in price, but also in size, valve adjustment settings, quality of filter element paper, and quality of manufacture of individual structural elements.

Non-original - a potential threat to engine longevity

And although many manufacturers of inexpensive filters try to copy the manufacturing techniques of the original cleaning devices, they often do it poorly. Wrong glue; wrong paper or not so folded accordion; low-quality rubber in the check valve; a leaky bypass valve or, conversely, that operates only when the critical pressure is exceeded. Such filters do not do their job well, do not take care of the required resource, and can cause great harm to an expensive power unit.

The main difference between original oil filters and non-original analogues is that when designing an original filter, the main attention is focused on the correct functioning of this important device and its long-term operation. Manufacturers of non-original filters for the engine lubrication system are primarily thinking about how to reduce the cost of producing their products.

Bypass valve - protector against a dangerous increase in oil pressure

I would especially like to say about the role of the bypass valve. Its main task is to direct the flow of oil past the filter, thereby preventing a critical rise in oil pressure in the engine lubrication system. As a result, oil seals, gaskets, and seals are protected from damage. The increased danger comes from cold oil - it has a very low viscosity - and from a very dirty filter pleat, which prevents the oil from passing freely through clogged paper. However, the bypass valve built into the oil pump also helps to solve the problem of a cold start of the engine.

Bypass valve location

Many oil filters have a bypass valve on the top side (opposite the threaded end). Practice has shown that this is not the best location. When starting the power unit, thick oil enters the oil system, bypassing the oil filter. To do this, the valve passes the lubricant directly into the central channel passing inside the steel tube with holes, and at the same time the contaminated end of the filter element is washed. Manufacturers of oil filters corrected this defect, and began to place a bypass valve inside the channel at the bottom (near the threaded end of the filter screwing into the cylinder block). The location of the adjusting device can be seen by looking inside the threaded hole. If the valve is clearly visible, it is located inside the filter above the end of the filter element. If only the spring is visible, it is located inside the filter element. In the original oil filters, special attention is paid to setting the operation of the bypass valve, therefore, a reliable guarantee of engine protection against unforeseen pressure increases is provided.

Expensive car models have neither a check valve nor a bypass valve in the oil filter. Overpressure and oil drain protection is built directly into the engine oil system. Therefore, buying products from unverified performers for such prestigious cars is unacceptable, costly, and very risky.

On the interchangeability of oil filters for gasoline engines and diesel engines

The brand of oils, lubricating properties and kinematic characteristics of carburetor engines and diesel engines are very different from each other. Therefore, the adjustment of the bypass valves, as well as the properties of the rubber of the drainage (check) valves, are different. Although the mounting threads for most filters are the same - installing an oil filter from a gasoline engine to a diesel engine (and vice versa!) Is unacceptable.

Sizes of oil filters for gasoline and diesel engines

If universal oil is used for both types of engines, then the difference between the filters is only in size. For a gasoline engine, a smaller filter is used, and for a diesel engine, a larger one. This is due to the fact that a lot of soot is formed during the combustion of diesel fuel. In this case, installation from a diesel engine to a gasoline engine is possible, from a carburetor to a diesel engine - no.

How to make a do-it-yourself replacement

In the vast majority of cases, the oil filter is changed along with the engine oil. The algorithm of actions is as follows:

• put the car on a viewing hole or lift it on a lift;
• unscrew the drain plug in the engine crankcase and drain the used oil into a container with a wide mouth;
• unscrew the oil filter counterclockwise (using your hands, a special wrench or an improvised tool). Since the old filter is no longer needed, it can be crushed, perforated, unscrewed with a chisel or screwdriver;
• wrap a new oil filter, after filling it with fresh oil. Tighten with great force by hand until a snug fit in place;
• wrap the drain plug and pour new oil into the crankcase at the bottom mark of the dipstick to control the level;
• start the engine, watching the oil pressure indicator light (it should go out a few seconds after starting);
• let the motor run for a few minutes;
• turn off the engine and carefully inspect it from all sides for oil leaks;
• add oil to the correct level.

Oil filter tool

Video: Volkswagen Polo Sedan TO-2, oil filter replacement

An oil filter is not a consumable item that you need to save on. The technical condition and longevity of an expensive engine depend on its ability to clean engine oil well from foreign mechanical particles. Therefore, do not purchase suspicious, non-original oil filters. The consequences can be severe.

Good afternoon! My name is Yuri. I am 67 years old. (2 votes, average: 1.5 out of 5)

While car and home air filters can be cleaned on your own, calling a professional to replace them reduces the chance of making a mistake. First, make sure that the filter is cleanable - only reusable filters can be reused after cleaning, disposable ones should be thrown away. The easiest way to clean a reusable filter is to vacuum it, although it will likely need to be washed to remove a thick layer of dirt.

Steps

Cleaning the car air filter

Remove the filter. Open the car hood. If you can't find the filter, check your vehicle repair and maintenance manual (paper or digital). Alternatively, just ask the mechanic the next time you service your car. Open the housing (fixed with screws or latches) and remove the filter.

Vacuum the dry filter. Connect the crevice tool to the vacuum cleaner. Vacuum the filter on each side for a minute. Examine the filter under a bright light and remove any stains you may have missed.

• Cleaning the filter with a vacuum cleaner is much faster and safer than rinsing it.

1. Rinse the dry filter if you like. Fill the bucket with a solution of soap and water. Dip the filter in the bucket and shake it. Pull out the filter and shake off excess water. Rinse the filter thoroughly under running water. Lay the filter on a towel and let it dry completely.

   • Do not put the wet filter back into the housing! This can damage the car's engine.
   • Wet filter cleaning is much more effective than dry cleaning, but at the same time it is more risky and time consuming.

2. Clean the oil filter. Tap the filter to shake out dust and dirt. Apply a cleaning solution (special for oil filters) to the outside and inside of the filter. Make sure the filter is completely saturated with the solution. Leave it in the sink or bowl for ten minutes. Rinse the filter with cold water at low pressure. Shake it off and let it dry completely.

   • Make sure that the detergent does not dry on the filter - leave it for only ten minutes.
   • Rinse the filter by running it from top to bottom under running water.
   • After rinsing, the filter should dry in about fifteen minutes. If during this time it does not dry completely, wait a couple more minutes.
   • If you're in a hurry, turn on your hair dryer or small fan at medium speed and temperature to speed up the drying process.

3. Re-lubricate the filter if necessary. Spread the oil evenly over the surface of the air filter. Carefully cover the filter with a thin layer of oil. Wipe off excess oil from the cover and lower edge of the filter. Leave the filter for 20 minutes to allow it to absorb the oil.

   Clean the hull. Vacuum the filter housing with a special nozzle to remove all dust and dirt from it. Alternatively, you can use a soft cloth or paper towel. Before replacing the filter, make sure the housing is completely dry and free of debris.

   • Moisture and debris can damage the engine.

4. Put the filter back in place. Insert the filter back into the housing. Lock any clips or latches that held the filter in place when you removed it.

Cleaning your home air filter

Remove the air filter. Turn off the system before touching the filter. Before removing the ventilation grille, vacuum the surrounding area or brush it with a brush. Loosen the screw(s) or open the latch and remove the grille. Vacuum the surface of the case, and then take out the air filter.

• If left unplugged, the system will attract debris during the cleaning process.
• If the vent is on the ceiling or high up on the wall, use a ladder.

1. Remove dirt. Dump any dirt out of the filter into a trash can. Attach the crevice tool to the tip of the flexible hose. Vacuum the front, back and sides of the filter with an upholstery nozzle to remove dust and debris.

   • Vacuum the filter outside if possible to avoid dusting inside the house.

2. Rinse the filter under running water. Attach the hose to the faucet. Hold the filter so that the water flows in the opposite direction to the air flow. Rinse the filter thoroughly to remove dust and dirt.

3. For more serious stains, wash with soapy water. If a simple rinse is not enough, try soaking the filter in soapy water. Mix a drop of liquid dish soap and two cups of warm water in a bowl. Stir the solution. Dampen a cloth with the solution and wipe the filter on both sides. Rinse the filter with water and let it dry completely.

   • Before leaving the filter to dry, shake off any remaining water from it.
   • If grease, smoke or pet hair gets into the filter, wash it with soapy water.

4. Dry the filter thoroughly. Blot the filter with dry paper towels and leave it outside to air dry. Before reinstalling the filter, make sure it is completely dry.

   • If this rule is neglected, mold can form in the filter and spread throughout the house.

Increased oil pressure when the diesel engine is warm, it indicates that the oil pump supplies excess oil; low pressure - the fact that the oil is supplied to the rubbing surfaces in insufficient quantities.

In both cases, flush and, if necessary, adjust the pressure reducing valve of the oil pump, to do this, remove the diesel oil sump, unscrew the plug of the pressure reducing valve and remove the valve with the spring. If there are burrs on the valve, clean them, flush the valve and the valve seat in the oil pump. With reduced oil pressure in the lubrication system, additionally tighten the valve spring by screwing the adjusting plug into the oil pump cover. After flushing the valve and adjusting the spring tightening, screw the plug all the way in and install the oil sump in place.

Rinse coarse oil filters every 50 hours of diesel operation and when changing oil in the diesel crankcase. Rinse fine filters after 100 hours. When washing the filters, the filter element is replaced with a new one or cleaned and washed. Flushing is carried out in the following order:

1) After stopping the diesel engine, drain the oil from the oil filter housing, unscrew the drain plugs in the filter housing and let the oil drain.

2) Clean the outer surface of the filters from dirt.

3) Unscrew the coupling bolts of the coarse and fine filter caps and, gradually tilting the caps, remove them from the housing together with the bolts and filter elements.

4) Rinse the inside of the filter housing with kerosene or diesel fuel. Let the kerosene drain and replace the drain plugs.

5) Rinse the filter element of the coarse filter, for which:

remove the cotter pin from the hole in the pin of the coupling bolt, shine the guide sleeve, felt rings, carefully remove the outer and inner sections of the filter element and the spring with the plate;

wash the coarse filter sections in diesel fuel, using a bristle brush or a smooth wooden stick to clean the outer surface; do not use metal scrapers for this purpose, as the winding can be damaged;

check the condition of the packing of the filter section and, if wide gaps are formed, solder the damaged areas with a trivet (the total soldering area should be no more than 10 cm2);

wash the cap, coupling bolt, conical spring and other parts of the filter in diesel fuel;

after washing, put the copper ring, cap, spring, plate, outer and inner sections of the filter element with a felt ring laid between them, the felt ring onto the lower bushing of the inner section, screw the guide bush onto the coupling bolt. When assembling, pay special attention to the correct installation of the sealing felt rings; all parts of the filter on the stem of the coupling bolt are fixed with a cotter pin inserted into the hole of the stem;

check the rubber gasket of the cap in the groove of the filter housing and, if necessary, replace it with a new one;

put the assembled filter element with a cap on the housing and tighten it tightly with a coupling bolt; when tightening the filter cap with a new rubber gasket, tighten the coupling bolt with little effort; additional tightening should be carried out after starting the diesel engine if oil leakage is detected.

6) Rinse the fine filter and replace the filter element, for which:

after removing the cap together with the filter element, remove the spring lock from the groove at the end of the pin of the coupling bolt and remove the element;

wash the cap, coupling bolt and conical spring in diesel fuel; clean the calibrated hole in the stem of the coupling bolt with copper wire;

after washing, put a copper sealing ring, a cap, a conical spring and a new filter element on the bolt shaft and put a spring lock into the groove on the bolt shaft; put a new element on the rod carefully so as not to damage the seals installed on the covers; the wire handle on the filter cover must be on top;