If you suddenly notice that your VAZ 2107 car has lost battery charging, this malfunction must be fixed immediately. If you operate the car without charging, the battery will run out very quickly and you will have to use a tow truck or tow.
To find the cause of the lack of battery charging and how to fix this problem, you need to start with theory.
Reasons for not charging the battery
For the correct operation of the ignition system and other electrical circuits of the VAZ 2107, the voltage in the on-board network must be constant. When the engine is not running, a constant voltage maintains the battery. After starting the engine, the car's generator comes into operation, it provides battery charging and maintains the voltage of the on-board network within 13.6-14.2 volts. Regardless of the speed, the voltage on the generator must remain constant. This is provided by a relay-regulator, which, depending on the speed, changes the voltage of the generator circuit. If the voltage drops below the acceptable level, the winding current increases, increasing the output voltage and vice versa.
If there is no charging on the VAZ 2107, possible reasons may be as follows:
- poor contact or break in the excitation network of the generator output voltage;
- faulty relay-regulator;
- broken alternator belt.
Troubleshooting the generator should, first of all, begin by identifying the cause of the lack of battery charge.
How to find the reason for the lack of battery charging
The first sign of a lack of charging is the warning light on the instrument panel, or if the voltmeter needle is not in the green zone when the engine is running. More precisely, you can check the voltage on the battery with a multimeter.
With the engine running, the voltage on the battery should be - 13.9 ± 0.3 V. If the battery is not charging, the voltage will be approximately 12 V.
Warning: to avoid damage to the ECU and the regulator relay, it is forbidden to remove the battery terminals while the engine is running.
High or low voltage of the on-board network harms the battery. In the first case, the electrolyte boils away, in the second, it is discharged, which leads to the failure of the battery.
To find the problem and fix it, you will need the following tools and devices:
- control lamp 12 V;
- multimeter;
- flat screwdriver;
- pliers;
- sandpaper.
Troubleshooting battery failure
The first step is to check the tension of the alternator belt - it is he who drives the generator and the coolant pump, so this malfunction can also be manifested by engine overheating.
If the VAZ 2107 battery charging lamp does not light up, and the normal voltage of the on-board network is shown on the voltmeter and the battery is not charging, the reason is obviously in the contacts on the terminals.
You need to remove the terminals from the battery and clean them with sandpaper. If charging does not appear, it is necessary to measure the voltage at the output "30" of the generator with the engine running. If the voltage readings at this output and the battery have a strong difference, you need to clean the contacts and check the wire going from the generator to the battery. If the wire is defective, then it must be replaced.
If the voltage in the on-board network is within limits when the engine is running, but when the headlights are turned on, it drops, the reason is the weak tension of the alternator belt. With increased load, a weak belt slips. The correct belt tension is when, with a force of 10 kgf, it should bend by 12-17 mm.
Another reason for the lack of charging may be a short circuit or a break in the stator or rotor winding, as well as a broken rectifier diode on the generator.
Diodes can be tested with a test light or multimeter to check their resistance. To test the diodes with a test lamp, remove the “+” terminal from the battery and connect the test lamp with one end to the positive terminal, and with the other end touch the three bolts shown in the figure below. Then do the same operation, only with the “-” terminal. If the control lamp lights up, then the diode under test is broken.
If one of the diodes fails, it is necessary to replace the diode bridge assembly.
A stator winding failure can be determined with a multimeter by measuring the resistance between the rectifier unit mounting bolts. If there is no contact between them, then there is a break in the winding. In this case, the winding or generator assembly is changing.
Probably the most common cause of generator failure is brush wear. To check them, you need to remove the brush assembly. The length of the brushes must be more than 5 mm, otherwise they must be replaced. Also, the brushes can jam or warp in the wells.
Note: the injection generator is no different from the generator of the carburetor version of the VAZ 2107. All tips for repairing and checking the generator are relevant for both modifications of the car.
Today I decided to highlight one of the topics that quite often worries the owners of the VAZ 2106, and other "classic" models.
Namely, it will be about problems with charging the battery or its complete absence.
Again, I want to immediately warn you that most likely I will not give all the possible reasons, but I will try to highlight those that I have encountered below in the article.
Generator brush wear
If the brushes of the VAZ 2106 generator are not long enough, charging may be insufficient or not at all. In order to check the condition of these parts, it is necessary if necessary. Let me remind you that the residual length of the brushes should be at least 12 mm. If during the measurement it turned out that it is insufficient, then this is a reason to replace this part.
Failure of the generator diode bridge
The burnout of one or more diodes of the rectifier unit can also be the cause of poor battery charging. From personal experience, I can recall several cases when, when only one diode burned out, the charging was insufficient and over time the battery had to be recharged, since the generator could not do this fully. To determine exactly whether this is the reason, it is possible to diagnose the diode bridge, and in case of a malfunction.
Charging relay failure
There are many cases that it is precisely because of the failure of the charging relay that it actually disappears completely. For a long time, the owners are looking for a reason until they change this electrical part for the VAZ 2106. It changes quite simply, since it is attached with just two bolts on the right side under the hood (as a rule).
More serious problems with the generator
If, after the diagnostics, and the replacement of all those parts that were written about above, charging did not appear, you should check the other parts of the generator, such as the stator and rotor. For more information about diagnostics, see this article.
You should immediately look for the cause of the malfunction, because the supply of all electrical equipment with current is at risk, as well as charging the battery.
As you know, with a working generator, the battery does not require charging for many months and years, while maintaining at least 60% of the charge. That is, a battery with a capacity of 55 Ah, which dozens are usually equipped with, is replenished with current due to the operation of a working generator.
Generator types
Most often, the VAZ 2110 (with a carburetor engine) is equipped with a generator 9402.3701. On the VAZ, the injector is 3202.3771 (with a V-ribbed belt). But in any case, the problems are the same, and we will consider them.
Basic problems
If the generator starts to act up, then the main causes of the malfunction should be sought either in the on-board network, or these are problems of the generator itself. If the generator gives charging, but not enough, then, perhaps, it was “loaded” too much, putting many other gadgets in addition to the standard electrical equipment, and it is already working at the limit of its capabilities.
Painfully, our motorists fell in love with tuning the VAZ 2110, adding, for example, speaker power, amplifying the light, etc. Some people in such cases change the battery, for example, put it with a capacity of 70 Ah, instead of the usual VAZ one for 55 Ah.
But if at first this can help, then over time such a battery will run down even faster, since the standard generator will not be able to ensure its full charge, it will not have enough power for this.
The causes of battery discharge are detailed in the following material:
troubleshooting
To pinpoint the source of the problem with the generator, you need to perform an elementary check. If you do not have "additional" energy consumers, you can immediately look for generator malfunctions, if any, turn them all off for a while. And - do not turn off, namely, disconnect from the car.
Test plan:
- Measure the current output on a cold car, at a time when it is not working, and all its life support systems are turned off. It will be ideal if there is no return at all. But this happens very rarely. Almost on every VAZ 2110, somewhere due to insufficient contact, local short circuit, etc. small returns are still observed. But - just a small one, and not one in which the battery can sit down during the night of parking;
- If everything is fine, no current leakage is observed, or they are scanty, the battery is not discharged, reconnect all those devices that you (it doesn’t matter, on your own or with the help of hired specialists) installed on the car on your own initiative. Repeat the same test. If it turned out that the current was actively leaking, it means that the reason is not in the battery and is not connected with the generator, it is the device not provided for by the designers of the VAZ 2110 that is to blame;
- But if even then no recoil is found, we proceed to a thorough examination of the generator. There are many possible faults here:
there is not enough contact between the brushes and the rotor rings;
there is a break in the excitation winding;
an interturn short circuit is possible directly in the excitation coil. At the same time, the generator heats up and buzzes;
the excitation winding can close to the rotor housing;
breaks can also occur in the phase winding of the stator;
the stator can short to the case;
it is possible to short the "plus" to the case;
in the rectifier unit, it can break through diodes;
mechanical failures also occupy not the last place in this list.
Now consider all the above generator malfunctions in more detail.
Weak contact
The contact may become weak when the brushes, slip rings of the rotor are dirty or oiled. Another culprit is the shrinkage of the springs pressing on the brushes, as well as the hanging of the brushes themselves. These shortcomings can increase the excitation resistance and even break the circuit.
Wiping with a cloth soaked in gasoline usually helps. Heavily worn brushes must be replaced with new ones, and at the same time check the springs. If the rings are oxidized, cleaning them with glass skin will help.
Winding break
If the excitation winding is broken, then there is no battery charging. To determine this, it is often enough to put your hand on the generator. When it breaks, it heats up. For an accurate check, you need to disconnect the end of the excitation winding from the brush, connect the battery wires (through a voltmeter or a light bulb) to it, and connect the battery wires (through a voltmeter or a light bulb) to the generator clamp.
If there is a break, then the voltmeter needle will not deviate, and the light will not light up. To find which of the coils does not allow the generator to work, connect wires from the battery to each individually. Finally, the soldering and coil leads are checked. If the break is internal, the coil needs to be replaced; with external ones, soldering helps.
Interturn short circuit
An interturn short circuit may occur in any of the field winding coils. In this case, the winding heats up, the excitation current increases. To determine the short circuit, it is not enough to note which of them is heated; you need to measure the resistance of each coil with an ohmmeter.
Short circuit to the rotor housing
With this malfunction, the entire field winding is closed, and the generator simply does not work. Most often, it closes to the housing in places where the ends of the winding are brought out to the slip rings of the rotor. Check this with a 220 V bulb.
One wire is connected to any slip ring, the other to the rotor core or its shaft. If there is a short, the light will turn on. You can’t go with such a generator, so you need to either insulate or replace the winding.
Short circuit in the phase winding of the stator
Most often, a short circuit occurs when the insulation between the turns in the stator coils is destroyed. At the same time, the generator is very hot, it does not charge the battery enough, since this only happens at very high crankshaft speeds.
The stator closes to the housing
As with other short circuits, there is a problem with the generator: it gets very hot, buzzes, and its power decreases. The check is carried out using a 220 V lamp. One lead is placed on the core, the other on one of the winding leads. If there is a short circuit, the lamp lights up. Repair consists in replacing defective coils.
Clamp "plus" closes to the housing
This malfunction not only leads to a strong overheating of the generator, but also to a breakdown of the diodes in the rectifier unit. Which, in turn, causes the battery to short circuit. It can not only be very discharged, but also fail.
Mechanical failures
The first place among the mechanical problems of the VAZ 2110 is belt tension. In this case, the alternator pulley is usually very hot. In addition, there is not enough battery charging. Also inspect everything for poor contact, breakage, etc.
Therefore, no matter who you have, a carbureted car, or an injector, it is better not to joke with a generator, and if faults are found, quickly respond to them.
The battery is the only source of voltage during engine start. As you might guess, if it is inoperable, it will be problematic to start the engine. In this article, we will explain why the car generator does not charge the battery and what to do in such cases.
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No charging process
The fact that the generator does not charge the battery can be reported by a diode indicator located on the instrument control panel. As a rule, this icon is depicted in the form of the battery itself, and when the electrical part on a functioning engine is working normally, it usually does not light up. You can see this indicator on the dashboard after you turn the key in the lock to position I. At this moment, all devices are diagnosed, so the appearance of the indicator at this moment is a completely normal situation. If the indicator stays on while driving, this may indicate that the alternator is not charging the battery.
Accordingly, the driver needs to solve such a problem as soon as possible, because otherwise it can lead to more serious consequences than just the indicator that appears on the tidy. Sometimes the generator unit does not charge the battery due to the inoperability of the latter. Moreover, somehow such a malfunction cannot be solved except by replacing the battery. But sometimes this may be due to improper operation of the generator.
Causes and troubleshooting
If you have the opportunity to borrow someone else's battery for a test, then you can try to put it instead of your own on the car. Of course, this battery must be fully functional. Actually, in this way you can find out what the cause of the problem is - in the battery or in the generator. Below we consider the causes of such a malfunction.
The internal state of the battery
Usually the reason why the alternator cannot give a charge to the battery is the sulfation of the plates of the latter. In this case, the surface of the plates may be covered with salts - partially or completely - that prevent the battery from charging. In the event that the degree of coverage of the plates is small, then, in principle, you can always try to restore the battery to working capacity. However, if the destruction process is no longer reversible, it will be necessary to replace the device.
As for the restoration of the battery design from sulfation, this process may take more than one day, and the result and quality of restoration cannot be guaranteed. This means that you may eventually need a new battery anyway. The resuscitation procedure, as a rule, begins when there are no signs of swelling, mechanical damage, cracks, etc. on the battery. That is, the body of the device must be intact.
But keep in mind that the external state is not always a guarantee that the result will suit you. Inside the structure are banks in which plates can break off, which ultimately leads to a short circuit. If so, then there are no other options other than buying a new battery.
Terminals
Sometimes the indicator light may appear while driving. At this point, you should not panic, because the reason can be quite banal. When hitting a bump or a pit, the contact may simply fly off the battery, this is especially possible if the terminal was poorly screwed. If so, then you just need to put it back in place and tighten it harder.
Problems with the terminals can manifest themselves if they are oxidized, in the place where they are connected to the output. To solve this problem, the oxidation simply needs to be cleaned up. To do this, you need fine sandpaper. In the process, you need to be as careful as possible, because you can accidentally cut off the lead part of the output, and this is unacceptable. If you erase more layer than necessary, the terminal will not hold well and will start to fall off on every bump (video by Avramenko Garage).
Generator belt
What charge should the generator give and for what reasons does the battery overcharge or fail to charge? Quite often, the problem lies in the knot strap - with a weak tension, the belt will begin to slip on the shaft, at the moment the knot will not be able to supply voltage to the system. The battery is switched over and the charged battery is transformed from a consumer of energy into a source of consumption, which is gradually discharged.
Diagnosis of the degree of strap tension can be carried out with the motor turned off. If the internal combustion engine is disabled, you can try to tighten it if necessary. But it should be borne in mind that slippage can be due not only to poor tension, but also to profile wear. This problem can be solved only by replacing the strap.
A wet or damp shaft can lead to the impossibility of transmitting rotation - the strap will slide over the surface without effort. In order for the battery to be able to charge normally, the pulley must be dry, so it will only be enough to dry it. Determining slippage is quite difficult, in this case, a break in the strap may occur.
The cause of the problem may be the oxidation of the wires on the generator unit at the joints. If you notice a white coating, then, as mentioned above, it can be removed with sandpaper. Perform a visual check for possible wire breaks or burnt contacts. If the wire is burned out, a characteristic smell may indicate this (the author of the video is VAZ 2101-2107 REPAIR AND MAINTENANCE).
Control of other elements of the charging system
To determine why the alternator overcharges or does not charge the battery in principle, a multimeter may be required. Using the tester, you can measure the voltage on the batteries in two modes. With the engine off, the charge parameter should be in the range of 12.5-12.7 volts, with the engine running - 13.5-14 volts. If these indicators are lower on the switched on internal combustion engine, this may indicate problems in the operation of the diode bridge or brush assembly. By the way, the brushes can wear out, so they need to be changed periodically.
If the relay is the cause of the overcharge or lack of charge, it can be eliminated by replacing or soldering the diodes. If the diodes will be soldered, it is necessary to select devices that are closest in terms of technical characteristics. Otherwise, they may overheat.
Generator check
The reason why the battery is not charging may be that the alternator is not working. If the mileage of the car is high, this can lead to the development of the rotor or wear of the rotating elements. As a result, this can lead to misalignment of parts within the structure and lack of rotation. If the generator is stuck, then it will need to be replaced, repair in this case will not give results. In addition, the cause may be an open circuit inside the mechanism. Such a malfunction can only be detected with the help of an electrician.
In general, most of the problems associated with the lack of charge can be solved on your own. To do this, it is enough just to properly monitor the operation of the unit and devote time to diagnosing the battery and generator if the corresponding indicator appears on the tidy.
Before writing about the main reasons why the battery charge may disappear on VAZ 2109-2108 cars, I would like to warn all readers that the list I have given is not complete and it is compiled only on the basis of personal operating experience. So, for my short 10 years of driving experience, I had to operate a lot of cars and there were quite a few problems with charging the battery, and I will try to write about the main ones here.
It's no secret that the main device that is responsible for the normal operation of electrical appliances in a car is a generator. It is due to the failure of some of its parts that charging can disappear completely, or become weak. The main malfunctions of the generator, which entail a decrease in the charge current on the battery:
- Worn alternator brushes. This is a very common and most common cause. If they are erased to the minimum allowable height, then charging may disappear gradually, and then disappear altogether. To solve this problem, you just need to replace the brushes with new ones and that's it.
- Failure of the diode bridge. The most reliable diode bridges are usually installed on VAZ 2109-2108 cars from the factory. And it is they who travel the most kilometers! This has already been verified not only by me, and any experienced auto electrician will confirm this. If one of the diodes or the entire rectifier unit is burned out, then it must also be replaced. The procedure is not very fast and pleasant, but it will not take much work. Just below I will throw a link to a page that describes the entire process of repairing the generator.
- A more complex generator failure, such as a broken rotor or stator winding. Of course, this is rare, but it does happen sometimes. The cost of these parts is quite low, so it's better to buy them new and install burned ones together than to buy a new generator.
- Weak charging may be due to a slipping alternator belt. This becomes especially noticeable in wet or rainy weather, or when water gets on the belt. It begins to whistle, as a result of which it slips on the pulley, thereby preventing the generator from gaining sufficient speed for optimal battery charging.
If you have problems on your car that are described above, then you can read all the maintenance procedures here:. Everything is described there in some detail, and even for beginners, the information will be very useful, and it will not be difficult to deal with it.
Of course, there may be more reasons for the loss of charging, and if any of the readers have something to add, please unsubscribe in the comments, I think that the information will be useful to everyone!
