A LOT of letters, but everything is on point!

WITH “WEDGE”

Instructors who teach to drive “pull-in”, at minimum speed, have not been translated into driving schools - they say, this way the engine will wear out less. Some of them even bend the pedal or put a wooden stop under it - then, with all your desire, you will not fully open the gas. So then another driver drives - with a “wedge”, frightened, as soon as the tachometer needle crosses the 2000 mark. This style is justified by fuel economy, caring for the engine.

As for fuel economy, this is only partly true. At low revs, the engine does not pull, so when overtaking or on a more or less noticeable rise, an adherent of this driving style is forced to “tread” the gas pedal, further enriching the mixture and burning the saved fuel.

So, maybe we win in the resource? At first glance, the answer is obvious: less engine speed means lower relative speeds of movement of parts, and wear decreases accordingly. But not everything is so simple. The most critical plain bearings (camshaft, main and connecting rod journals of the crankshaft) are designed to operate in hydrodynamic lubrication mode. Pressurized oil is fed into the gap between the shaft and the bushing and perceives the resulting loads, preventing direct contact of the parts - they simply “float” on the so-called oil wedge. The friction coefficient for hydrodynamic lubrication is extremely small - only 0.002-0.01 (for lubricated surfaces with boundary friction it is ten times higher), therefore, in this mode, the liners withstand hundreds of thousands of kilometers. But the oil pressure depends on the engine speed: the oil pump is driven by the crankshaft. If the load on the engine is high and the speed is low, the oil wedge can be pressed through to the metal, and the liner will begin to break, and wear progresses rapidly as the gaps grow: it is more and more difficult to create a “wedge”, there is not enough oil supply.

In addition, when driving at low speeds, there are shock loads in the engine and transmission. The inertia of the rotating parts is no longer sufficient to smooth out the resulting vibrations. The same thing happens when touching. Recall a driving school: as soon as you release the clutch sharply at low gas, the car starts to jump. Sometimes this ends with a breakdown of the clutch: the elastic plates of the driven disk fastening to the casing do not withstand, burst, springs pop out of the windows. It is better to lose a little on wear and tear, but to avoid premature failure.

So, the more we demand from the motor (sharp acceleration, rise, loaded car), the higher the speed should be. And vice versa, with a quiet ride, when the engine is lightly loaded, it makes no sense to drive the tachometer needle to the end of the scale.

GOLDEN MEAN

Accelerated wear of the liners is not the only evil from the passion for low speeds. During short trips in such modes, low-temperature deposits accumulate in the engine, primarily in the lubrication system. It’s worth “grabbing” along the highway - and hot oil under pressure will thoroughly flush the system, at the same time, excess carbon deposits in the combustion chambers and piston grooves will burn out. Sometimes it is possible to restore the compression in the cylinders that has decreased due to the occurrence of rings.

When disassembling the “Zhiguli” motor, many paid attention to the worn recesses on the end of the valves - traces of levers. These marks mean that the valves did not rotate, but worked all the time in one position. Meanwhile, the rotation of the valve prolongs its service life, only this is possible at speeds above 4000-4500 rpm. Few bring the motor to these modes, so a notch appears on the valves. And then she herself will prevent their rotation.

But long work near the red zone is also not good for the engine. Cooling and lubrication systems are working to the limit, without a margin. The slightest defect of the first - a radiator clogged with fluff in front or sealant from the inside, a faulty thermostat - and the arrow of the temperature gauge will be in the red zone. Bad oil or clogged lubrication channels can cause scuffing on parts or even “sticking” of liners or pistons, breaking the camshaft. Therefore, “racers” should not lose sight of the pressure gauge and temperature gauge. A serviceable engine, filled with good oil, tolerates maximum speed without problems. Of course, in this mode, its resource is reduced, but by no means catastrophically - if only the spare parts were not “left”!

Between these two extremes lies the golden mean. Depending on the specific conditions, the optimal mode is 1/3-3/4 revolutions of maximum power. In the break-in mode, too low revolutions are also unacceptable, and the upper limit should be lowered to 2/3 of the “maximum speed”. But the main principle remains unshakable - the higher the load, the higher the speed should be.

COLD START

Starting in the cold is not good for the engine. Gasoline condensed on the cold walls of the cylinder does not burn out, but dilutes and washes away the oil film from them. Therefore, high speeds are harmful to an unheated engine, and old carburetor engines do not pull at low speeds. Injection engines allow you to drive right away, but it’s better to wait a minute until the oil scatters a little through the system and goes to all nodes.

Oil starvation can occur immediately after start-up if the oil does not have time to return to the sump and air cooler pump. Therefore, if the low oil pressure light comes on, immediately turn off the engine for 30-40 seconds - let it drain. The reason can be either too thick oil, or its insufficient level or a clogged oil receiver (ZR, 2002, No. 4, p. 188).

HEATSTROKE

This danger lies in wait for the driver, who is always in a hurry: having won some seconds in a crazy race, he flies up to the sidewalk, turns off the ignition and ... at the same moment, the engine temperature begins to rise. A second ago, the thermal balance of the engine running at high speeds was maintained due to the intensive circulation of the coolant and the cooling of the radiator. But the pump pumping it over stopped, and the pistons, valves, cylinder head are still very hot. Sometimes the liquid even has time to boil, and the steam removes heat hundreds of times worse. After several such overheating, the cylinder head may be deformed, its gasket may burn out - the repair is not cheap.

There is only one way out - after an active drive, let the engine cool down at idle for at least 15-20 seconds. This is especially important on turbocharged engines. Replacing a failed turbine will cost much more than the time saved.

THE MORE WE NEED FROM THE MOTOR (SHARP ACCELERATION, LIFT, LOADED VEHICLE), THE HIGHER RPM SHOULD BE

OPTIMAL MODE - 1/3 - 3/4 TURNS OF MAXIMUM POWER

HIGH RPM FOR A WARM ENGINE IS HARMFUL

AFTER AN ACTIVE RIDE, ALLOW THE ENGINE TO COOL AT IDLING