There are quite a few reasons why the reverse gear does not turn on, so sometimes it’s not at all easy to understand what caused this malfunction. Moreover, in cars "stuffed" with electronics and all kinds of sensors, it is a problem with electronics or contacts that causes the reverse gear to stop turning on.
In this article, I will talk about the possible causes and malfunctions due to which the reverse gear on the Lada Kalina does not turn on. You will also learn how to troubleshoot the reverse gear lock mechanism with your own hands.
Reverse does not turn on - reasons
- Before proceeding with cardinal actions and disassembling "everything and everything", check the gear lever itself, perhaps the reason is in it. The backstage and cardan - quite often become the cause of this breakdown. The splines could also be worn out or the clamp loosened. In this case, you will need a viewing hole.
- Defective release bearing, as an option. Although it is unlikely, since in this case, without exception, all gears would turn on with a characteristic crunch and with great effort.
- Reverse may stop engaging due to problems in the reverse gear lock mechanism, in order to confirm or deny this, remove the shift knob along with the torpedo between the seats and perform a visual inspection.
In my case, the problem was precisely in the faulty wiring of the transmission lock solenoids (break or fracture), how I solved this issue, read on.
How to check and repair the reverse gear lock mechanism Lada Kalina with your own hands?
Theory:
Power is supplied to the solenoid through a switch ring located on the gear knob. It works like this: you lift the ring, thereby activating the solenoid, the rod is drawn into the solenoid, which leads to the release of the reverse gear. After that, you can engage reverse gear by moving . Next, the "limit switch" located on the box is turned on, and the rear feet are turned on, and an intermittent sound signal is turned on in the cabin.
To fix this problem you will need:
- Key to "36";
- Insulating tape or heat shrink;
- A piece of copper wire;
- Tester;
- Soldering iron.
Here is the solenoid control circuit:
+12 volts is supplied to the solenoid L1 through the fuse F21, using the switch S1 on the handle, the circuit is closed to ground, after which the solenoid coil is activated.
1. The 10A F21 fuse we need in the fuse box is located 8th from the left. Take it out and check with a tester. If replace with a new one of the same rating.
2. Now it's time to check the switch, to do this, lift the cover on the handle, after which you will see the connector connected to the switch. Turn it off carefully.
3. Using a paper clip, you need to close the contacts of the connector, from which the wires go down under the Kalina floor. Now try to turn on the reverse gear, if it turned on, the switch is faulty. If not, continue troubleshooting.
4. Remove the connector from the solenoid, install two pins into it, then use a tester to measure the voltage, the device should show 12 volts. In addition, you need to load it with a light bulb. For this, a 5-watt at 12 V is suitable, if the light does not light up, you have a break, and the voltage is explained by the resistance that was formed due to copper oxide. As practice shows, 99% of breaks and fractures occur in the tourniquet, in the place where the clamp is installed on the pallet.
5. Remove a collar, having squeezed its fastenings from below.
6. Disconnect the connector from the stop switch and remove the entire harness. Remove the electrical tape from the corrugation and remove the wires. In the event of a break or break in the wire, you will notice characteristic signs.
7. Pinch off the wires with wire cutters and connect others that are similar in cross section and diameter. It is better to solder and insulate the twist itself or use heat shrink. If desired, you can put on another corrugation, the main thing is that moisture does not penetrate, otherwise the problem will repeat very soon. Clamp, I personally threw it away, if you need it, you can leave it. Secure the harness with a plastic clamp.
8. We connect the connectors and check the operation of the solenoid. The failure of the solenoid itself is quite rare, to check it, connect the tester, the resistance should be 2.2 ohms. If, however, the problem is in it. There is a way. in which it is fashionable not to drain, but some skill is needed here, the main thing is to sharply plug the hole with something, and then screw in a new one. A little oil will spill out, of course, but you can add it back. When installing a new solenoid, do not forget to lubricate the threads with sealant, if this is not done over time, oil will begin to ooze along the threads.
If the previous checks did not lead to anything, there are several options left, namely:
- The mechanism for fastening the gear selection mechanism has failed;
- Sheared fixing bolt;
- A spring broke in the gearbox.
The worst thing is that each of these three points requires the mandatory dismantling of the gearbox, and this is already from the category of "serious repairs", which is not always possible for an ordinary "carrier", and it will take much more time than in the case of a backstage or blocking transmission.
That's all I wanted to say! Hope it helped solve the problem. If, after all the above manipulations and checks, you still do not turn on reverse gear, seek help from a specialist or go to a service station.
A modern car is literally stuffed with electronics, and Lada Kalina is no exception in this sense. On the one hand, electronics make life much easier for the driver. On the other hand, it can also become a cause and source of headache for the driver, since the abundance of electronics can seriously complicate troubleshooting. The most common electronics-related problem on Kalina is the inability to turn on reverse gear. We will tell you why the transmission does not turn on and how to fix it in this article.
The device of the reverse gear lock mechanism in the Lada "Kalina"
All main elements of the locking mechanism are listed
To engage reverse gear on Kalina, the driver needs to move the gear lever slightly towards himself, and then forward. You need to do this by lifting a small plastic ring on the lever, which serves as a kind of insurance. A solenoid is installed in the gearbox, which does not allow reverse gear to be engaged until the ring has risen. After lifting the ring, the magnetic switch built into the lever is activated, the solenoid is connected to ground, after which the stem inside the solenoid moves. This leads to the fact that the course of the gear selection mechanism increases and the inclusion of another speed becomes available - reverse.
Why reverse gear stopped turning on and how to solve
Difficulties with the inclusion of reverse gear can arise for a number of reasons, the most common of them are listed below.
Block fuse blown: reason number one
The fuse F21, which is responsible for blocking the reverse gear, is located in the bottom row, in the eighth slot
This is the first element that you need to pay attention to when breaking down electronics. In the Lada Kalina car, this fuse is designated as F21. Its nominal value is 10 A, and it is located in the main safety block of the car (there it is eighth from the left). The fuse is removed, its jumper is inspected. If it is interrupted, the fuse is replaced with a new one. Then the car starts and again an attempt is made to engage the reverse gear. If the new fuse blows again, this indicates that there is a short circuit in the solenoid power circuit, therefore, not only the fuse, but also the solenoid itself will have to be changed.
Video about where the fuse box is located in Kalina
Faulty magnetic switch
The arrow shows the connector, which must be closed with a wire or a regular paper clip
This does not happen often, because the part is quite reliable. The solution is obvious: you need to remove it and check it. To do this, remove the cover mounted on the gear lever. Next, you should find the connector that is connected to the lever. It is carefully disconnected, and its contacts are closed with some kind of wire (an ordinary paper clip is also suitable, which can be tied to the connector with a piece of electrical tape). After closing the contacts, you must try to turn on the reverse speed again. If it succeeded, then the reason was in the magnetic switch, and it must be changed. Another option is possible here: the plastic ring itself, to which this switch is connected, does not rise high enough (usually this is due to wear and tear). So before disassembling the lever and removing the switch, it makes sense to make sure that the ring rises freely and to the required height. If the ring sticks, it must be replaced.
No voltage from the solenoid to the gearshift lever
The arrow shows a clamp with a frayed wire
The most common reason. The wire connecting the solenoid and the gearshift lever is very poorly located. It passes under the bottom of the car, near the side member on the left. Here it is affected by moisture, chemicals against ice, and finally, it can simply break from a stone that has fallen. And most often this wire breaks where it is attached to the spar with a clamp: dirt accumulates under the clamp, which acts as an abrasive material, literally grinding both the insulation and the wire itself. As a rule, these damages are visible to the naked eye. To identify them, the car is driven into a viewing hole, where an inspection is carried out (in which a flashlight will help a lot). If the wire is damaged, it is replaced. The second option is also possible: the damage is not visible, and the wire looks intact. In this case, you should use a multimeter to check if there is voltage at the output of the solenoid. If it is not there, then the problem is in the wire.
Blocking solenoid burnt out
If during the inspection it turned out that the blocking fuse is intact, the wiring is intact, and there is still no voltage at the outputs of the solenoid, then the solenoid itself has failed. The first step is to determine if current is flowing to the solenoid. To do this, both wires are disconnected from it, and the voltage on each is checked. If there is no voltage on both wires, then the cause of the breakdown is somewhere in the area between the solenoid and the fuse. If voltage is supplied to one of the wires, then the winding in the solenoid itself has burned out. In order to verify this, you need to switch the multimeter to the ringing mode, and then touch the outputs on the solenoid with the probe. If zero is visible on the multimeter display all this time, the winding is burned out, and the solenoid must be replaced.
To sum up, the vast majority of problems with reverse gear are caused by damaged wiring, which is located in a very unfortunate place. In fact, this is a serious miscalculation by the designers of Lada Kalina, who not only placed the wires where they should not be, but also did not bother to properly protect them. It is for this reason that troubleshooting problems with reverse gear should always begin with an inspection of the wiring under the left side member. In most cases, this saves a lot of time.
If you are in Kalina one or another electrical device has stopped working - headlights, dipped or main beam, cigarette lighter, stove, turn signals, as well as other devices, then the first step is to find the cause of the failure, in particular, check the fuses and relays in Lada Kalina.
The first thing to check in electrical circuits is fuses, because they are the weakest point in the circuit and are usually the first to fail. About which fuses are responsible for what in Lada Kalina, as well as where the relays are and how to find the right one, read on.
If you do not want to get into an unpleasant situation when a particular device refuses to work due to a blown fuse, and there is no whole at hand, it is useful to make it a rule to always carry a set of different fuses with you.
For Lada Kalina, you can buy a similar set at any auto shop that sells auto parts for domestic cars. It takes up very little space, but the benefits of it in the event of a failure will significantly reduce your time to troubleshoot.
Relay and fuse box
Fuses in Lada Kalina are located under the dashboard, in the block, which is located to the left of the steering wheel. To get to it, you need to open the cover in which the headlight switch is built. The lid is on latches, if you pull it towards you by the upper part, it will open and fold down (its lower part is fixed on the axis).
F1 (10 A) - immobilizer, dashboard lamps and sensors, reversing lamp, turn signals.
If any “arrow” on the dashboard has stopped working for you, or one or all of the control lamps have stopped lighting up, check this fuse, as well as the sensors or lamps themselves.
If the rear white light does not come on when you put it in reverse, it could also be the fuse or the reverse switch.
The reverse switch is located on the gearbox, in order to change it, you will most likely need to remove the engine cover to get to it. Located on the left side in the direction of travel on the rear of the gearbox.
If the turn signals do not work and this fuse is intact, also check the K5 relay, the direction indicator switch, its connector, as well as the turn signal lamps themselves.
F2 (30 A) - power windows.
If the power windows stop working, check this fuse, as well as relay K2. If the fuse and relay are good, there could be a number of reasons. First, try pressing the power window button and slam the door. If the mechanism "bites" when the glass is up, this may help.
Otherwise, you need to disassemble the casing and look at the mechanism. When disassembling, you need to check the health of the gears and all components of the power window, including the motor brushes. It could also be the power window module. It is located in the left rear door, if something is wrong with it, then most likely you will have to change this module to a working one.
F3 (10 A) - alarm.
If the emergency gang does not work and this fuse is good, check the K5 relay.
If your left or right turn signals come on and are constantly on, even when you turn off the ignition, this is a factory defect. In this case, the body electronics control unit must be replaced. This can be done in official salons.
F4 (20 A) - wiper, rear window heating.
If the wipers do not work and this fuse is intact, also check relays K4 and K6. The case may be in the wiper motor, its mechanism. Check the wiper switch and its connector.
If the rear window heating does not work, check the F8 fuse, the heater terminals, their contacts, as well as the contacts of this fuse and relay K6. It could also be a bad connection to the chassis. The mass of wiring is connected to the body under the torpedo. If there is a bad or oxidized connection in this place, this can also cause problems with the correct readings of the instruments on the panel.
F5 (25 A) - stove, electric power steering, windshield washer.
If this fuse and the K4 relay are intact and the stove does not work, the problem may be in its electric motor (brushes) or the power button, as well as its contacts.
If the electric power steering does not work, this fuse and the F31 fuse are intact, then it is better to contact the workshop, because it will be difficult to find and fix this malfunction on your own.
F6 (20 A) - beep.
If this fuse and relay K8 are good, but the signal does not work, check the horn itself. It is located under the front bumper near the radiator. Sometimes it is enough to turn the tone adjustment screw. The location is inconvenient, because water can easily get into it, as an option, you can reinstall it in a higher place, or install another horn that is less sensitive to water and moisture.
F7 (10A) - LCD dashboard indicator, brake lights, interior lighting.
If the brake lights don't work, check this fuse. If it is intact, check the brake light switch, which is located at the base of the brake pedal, is a round piece with two wires connected to its terminals. If this is the case, then a replacement will help. It costs about 100 rubles. Also check the bulbs in the taillights. If one brake light does not light, then the lamp is most likely burned out. If both signals are not lit, then most likely it is a relay, fuse or switch.
F8 (20 A) - rear window heating element.
If the rear window does not fog up when the heating is on, check this fuse, relays K4 and K10, as well as fuse F4.
F9 (5 A) - right size lamps, lamp in the glove box.
If the right side does not work - the right front and right rear dimensions do not light up, check this fuse, as well as the lamps themselves.
F10 (5 A) - left lamps of dimensions, control lamp for turning on the lighting on the dashboard, license plate lighting lamps.
Similar to the previous one.
F11 (7.5 A) - rear fog lamps.
F12 (7.5 A) - right low beam lamp, right headlight corrector motor.
F13 (7.5 A) - left low beam lamp, left headlight corrector motor.
If one of the low beam headlights does not light, check one of these fuses, as well as the lamp itself. If both headlights do not work, check the serviceability of the light switch, its connector, as well as the lamps themselves (it also happens that both burn out at the same time).
F14 (10 A) - right high beam lamp, high beam indicator lamp on the dashboard.
F15 (10 A) - left high beam lamp.
If the high beam does not work, also check relay K7. If it fails, replace it. It can also be in the lamps themselves, the wiring, the high beam switch and its connector.
F16, 17 (10 A) - front fog lamps.
F18 (15 A) - heated seats.
F19 (10 A) - ABS.
If the fuse is good, but the ABS does not work, one of its mechanisms has most likely stopped working. If the ABS warning lamp on the dashboard is on, then one of its elements is out of order. It is necessary to diagnose the fault codes and eliminate the cause.
F20 (15 A) - cigarette lighter.
Frequent problems with Kalina's cigarette lighter can be caused by its non-standard configuration. When connecting various connectors, proper fixation does not occur, so there may be short circuits, due to which this fuse fails. Alternatively, you can install an additional connector or use a splitter with 12 V sockets.
F21 (10 A) - reverse gear lock.
F22 (15 A) - alarm control unit.
F23 - reserve
F24 - reserve
F25 - reserve
F26 (25 A) - ABS.
Same as F19.
F27 (5 A) - spare
F28 (7.5 A) - spare
F29 (10 A) - spare
F30 (20 A) - spare
F31 (50 A) - electric power steering.
If the steering wheel is hard to turn, check this fuse as well as fuse F5. If the cause of the malfunction cannot be established, contact a car service, because. steering is a serious thing that affects safety. Maybe something with the control unit or wiring.
Relay location
The relays are in the same block as the fuses.
K1 - headlight washer.
If the washers stop working and this relay is working properly, check their nozzles. Sometimes they become clogged or damaged.
K2 - power windows.
Check this relay along with fuse F2. See F2 for troubleshooting.
Short circuit - starter relay.
If you turn the ignition key and the starter does not turn, it may be the relay. Check its contacts, clean them if necessary. Next, you need to check the battery terminals so that there is reliable contact between them, clean them if necessary.
Also check the contact group of the ignition switch, maybe there is no contact there.
K4 - add. relay, heated rear window, heater switch, wiper and washer switch.
K5 - relay-interrupter of turn signals and alarms.
If the direction indicators or emergency gang do not work, check this relay together with fuses F1 and F3.
K6 - wiper relay.
Check together with fuse F4.
K7 - high beam relay.
Check together with fuses F14 and F15.
K8 - sound signal.
Check together with fuse F6.
K9 - fog lights.
Check together with fuses F16 and F17.
K10 - heated rear window.
Also check relay K4 and fuses F4 and F8.
K11 - heated seats.
Also check fuse F18.
K12 - reserve.
Power fuses
The main power fuses and the diagnostic connector are located under a cover next to the cigarette lighter.
I hope this article will help you solve your electrical problem. Just in case, carry spare fuses with you and, if possible, a relay, then you will not need to look for them at the most inopportune moment or after hours of car dealerships.
If you have any questions about electrics or history, you can write them in the comments.
On the left side of the instrument cluster of a Lada Kalina car, a tachometer is installed, by which the driver can determine the engine speed. Malfunctions in the electrical circuit of this device can lead either to a complete cessation of its readings (the tachometer needle lies at zero when the engine is running), or to needle jumps on the scale, which does not allow determining the exact number of revolutions of the crankshaft.
As soon as the reverse gear on the Lada Kalina car stops turning on, problems with its parking immediately appear. After all, not everywhere you can park a car only parallel to the carriageway with the subsequent opportunity to start moving forward without using reverse gear. A feature of the device of the Lada Kalina gearshift mechanism is the blocking of the reverse gear using a rod located inside the solenoid (one of the varieties of the inductor) screwed into the gearbox housing (gearbox).
The most common malfunction associated with the cessation of the operation of one or both dipped beam headlights of a Lada Kalina passenger car is the failure of halogen lamps, the brand of which is H7. And on some cars, this happens quite often, the light bulbs are enough for just a couple of months. There are several possible reasons for the lamps to burn out. One of them is connected with the lack of tightness of the headlight, as a result of which dust gets inside it. The settling of dust on the bulb of a halogen lamp leads to its overheating, and it fails.
When on the instrument panel, with the engine of a Lada Kalina car running, the battery charge control lamp lights up, this is a signal to the driver that there are problems associated with some kind of generator malfunction. Therefore, you will have to open the hood and see if the alternator drive belt is intact, and if it is in place, then its tension has not weakened.
The quality of the oil poured into the gearbox of a Lada Kalina passenger car will determine the durability of its normal operation, as well as the noise it makes, which is important for a comfortable ride for the driver and passengers. About 3.5 liters of mineral gear oil produced by the Ryazan Oil Refinery (TNK Lubricants LLC) of the THK TRANS KP brand of viscosity grade according to SAE 80W-85 (API group GL-4) are poured on the VAZ conveyor, at the Kalina checkpoint. The instruction manual for this car says that it needs to be changed after a run of 75 thousand kilometers.
The passenger car Lada Kalina, the first generation, was produced for a little more than 8 years (2004-2013). It was equipped with both 8-valve engines (VAZ-21114) with a displacement of 1.6 liters, and 16-valve engines (VAZ-11194 and VAZ-21126) with a displacement of 1.4 and 1.6 liters. And since mid-May 2013, the second generation of these cars has been produced.
An electric fuel pump located in the gas tank of a Lada Kalina passenger car can be considered the heart of the injection engine power system. It is he who creates the necessary pressure in the ramp, on the value of which the operation of electromagnetic nozzles depends. The controller controls the on and off of the fuel pump. When the driver turns the key to the "ignition on" position, voltage is applied to the fuel pump terminals for 3-5 seconds through the main relay. And as soon as the engine crankshaft starts to rotate, then, at the signal of the DPKV sensor, the controller turns on the fuel pump relay and the voltage to its terminals will go through the contacts of this relay.
Interruptions in the operation of the engine of a VAZ-2118 Lada Kalina passenger car become very clearly visible in idle mode (the engine twitches), as well as when trying to quickly pick up speed (the engine does not pull). There are a lot of reasons why an engine can start to work like this. They can be connected both with ignition and power systems, and with gas distribution and crank mechanisms.
The switching on of the electric motor of the cooling system fan, on a Lada Kalina (VAZ-2118) passenger car, is commanded by an electronic control unit (ECU). The moment of switching on depends on the time the temperature sensor sends a signal to the computer, and the voltage from the current source to the terminals of the fan motor is supplied through the relay. On the part of Lada Kalina cars, the fan can turn on in two modes, with low and high rotation speed. Reducing the frequency of rotation of the fan motor armature is achieved by applying voltage to its terminals through an additional resistance.
Most Lada Kalina car owners who have previously encountered other VAZ models note that its stove heats up much better than its predecessors. Unfortunately, it sometimes breaks. As part of this article, we will try to figure out why the Lada Kalina stove does not work (reasons and repairs).
Furnace failure due to a malfunction in the engine cooling system of the car
The most common cause of a malfunction in the Lada Kalina heating system, are problems with the engine cooling system. To rule out or correct this problem, the first thing you should do is check the coolant level. This can be done by looking into the expansion tank. The coolant level should be between the "MIN" and "MAX" marks, if it is lower, then add the coolant to the norm.
There is one here SECRET, in winter, when it is required that the stove heats up as quickly as possible, you can add coolant more often, but only up to the mark "MIN". The logic of this action is simple: the less coolant, the faster the system will warm up, which means that the faster warm air will begin to enter the car interior.
If you add fluid above the "MIN" level, but you have to do this quite often, then it is worth inspecting the system for leaks. First of all, pay attention to the pipes, if they are leaking, then you should tighten the clamps. If everything is in order with the pipes, then check if the radiator is leaking. If a radiator leak is found, it should be replaced.
The next step in checking should be coolant circulation in the system. To do this, start the engine and pay attention to the expansion tank. If it is found that the normal circulation of the coolant is disturbed, then there are two reasons why this can happen. The first is a pump, it cannot be repaired, so we just replace it, the second is a clogged engine cooling system, it needs to be cleaned.
Next to you need to check the thermostat. To do this, warm up the engine to a temperature of 75 degrees Celsius, and touch the upper pipe. If it is cold, then the thermostat is not functioning properly - the coolant circulates only in a small circle. The thermostat cannot be repaired, so if this problem is detected, it will have to be replaced.
If none of the above helped, then the stove repair will most likely consist of removal of an air lock from the engine cooling system. This procedure is not very simple, but at the same time, any car owner who approaches the problem carefully and accurately can handle it.
Lada Kalina stove failure due to problems with heater elements
To begin with, to make it easier to understand what the problem is and how to fix it, you should understand the principle of operation of the Lada Kalina heating system.
So, it all starts with the fact that the heating system control unit of the car receives a signal from the interior temperature sensor, which is located on the ceiling, in the lighting dome. Further, the electronics compares the received data with those set by the driver. If the difference in values is more than two degrees Celsius, then the control unit sends a signal to the micromotor-reducer, which, in turn, depending on whether the temperature is higher or lower, opens or closes the dampers of the heating system of the machine.
From the operation scheme described above, the following conclusion can be drawn: if you find that the stove blows only cold or only hot air, then you should check the normal functioning of the car interior temperature sensor. In this case, the repair of the stove will either be to eliminate failures in the contacts, which is less common, or to completely replace the temperature sensor in the car interior.
If the air enters at the desired temperature, but the intensity of its supply is low, then we can safely state that the problem is the air filter. It cannot be repaired, so just replace it with a new one. In this case, also, it would not be superfluous to check the stove resistor (it is located under the glove compartment). The thing is that it is responsible for the speed of rotation of the fan and may be the culprit for the weak intensity of air flow into the interior of the car.
Another problem node of the car's heating system, is directly electric fan. Sometimes it just won't turn on. In this case, you should check the fuse that is responsible for its operation, it is marked F5. If the fan turns on, but strange sounds come from it, then the problem is in itself. Repair of the stove in this case will consist in replacing the old electric fan with a new one.
It is worth noting that there is a publication on our website that describes in detail the popular method for replacing the fan and the method according to the service manual.
The last of the elements of the car's heating system, which we have not yet considered, but which can cause problems with the stove, are dampers. It is quite difficult to understand that they are out of order. The only 100% option is to replace them with known working ones. In order not to waste money, you can ask a friend for flaps, just for a test, or arrange with the seller of the store that you can return the flaps if it turns out that they are not the case.
In general, these are all the elements that can cause malfunctions in the stove of the Lada Kalina car. The only thing I would like to note is that in order for the stove repair to be successful and for you to spend a minimum of time with maximum benefit, you should go through all the elements of the machine in sequence, as indicated in the article. Then you will definitely identify the faulty unit and forget about problems with interior heating for a long time.
