Not enough engine power. The engine began to "stupid", the throttle response of the motor disappeared: possible causes

In general, the engine can stop pulling for a variety of reasons - this is one of the most common malfunctions, which can have a huge variety of reasons, and below we will consider the most likely ones, describe their symptoms and explore this issue in detail. After all, one day it can happen to each of us that the engine will lose power, without being accompanied by any more symptoms. The engine is probably not showing any obvious signs of any disease, it seems to be almost in perfect order and does not make any unusual noises and vibrations, but it just does not pull as well as it usually does. And the problem seems to be getting worse and worse every day, although you probably didn’t even notice when the engine started to pull worse for the first time.

If you are familiar with this situation, then let's look at the following reasons for reducing the engine's traction:

Poor quality fuel

First of all, you need to blame the fuel - remember where you last refueled - perhaps this is a new gas station or one with the fuel of which you had no experience of driving before. It is quite possible that this fuel simply turned out to be of very poor quality (it happens so much that you are just lucky if your engine just stops pulling - after all, for someone, the engine will probably stop starting at all until the owner completely replaces the fuel in the tank).

If you refuel at the gas station where you usually do, and nothing raises suspicions, go to local communities on social networks, a car club in your region / district, or just a city portal - perhaps there was simply a bad delivery of fuel at the gas station.

However, most often, along with the loss of traction, the incompatibility of the engine with such low-quality fuel has other symptoms - for example, such as instability of engine speed, difficulty starting, and some others, depending on how bad the fuel turned out to be and on the car model.

But it is most likely that you can determine the poor quality of gasoline yourself by unscrewing the candles from the engine (this will require a special candle wrench) - in general, candles can often be used as the primary diagnostic method for certain malfunctions in the engine combustion chamber, since it is they who work most closely with this combustion chamber and at the same time are quick-detachable. If the fuel contains a large amount of metal-based additives, then the contacts of the candle and the "skirt" of the central diode will have a reddish coating (as if a red brick was crushed onto a candle).

Dirty air filter

Your air filter may also simply get dirty, and in this case, eliminating the power loss will cost you, perhaps, cheaper than all other options - just replace the air filter - you can either buy it yourself or replace it yourself.

The problem with a dirty air filter is that the fuel-air mixture that enters the combustion chamber of your engine cylinders enters there without enough air, and therefore the fuel does not burn completely, because sufficient oxygen is needed to burn it. It turns out a situation similar to a runny nose in a person - he seems to eat enough and leads a healthy lifestyle, but at certain points in his life (during illness with this runny nose), clogged nasal passages do not allow him to breathe normally.

Dirty or old spark plugs

Spark plugs can very well be dirty or excessively worn, in which case if the engine is not pulling because of them, this is also a relatively inexpensive troubleshooting option - just clean the spark plugs or replace them. However, it should be borne in mind that both periodic fouling and wear of spark plugs is an abnormal process, and the reason for this lies, most likely, somewhere deeper, or in the spark plugs themselves.

Dirty fuel filter

The fuel filter, like the air filter, can cause loss of engine power. And the physics of the process here is similar to an air filter - if in the case described above the fuel did not completely burn out due to lack of air, then in the case of a contaminated fuel filter, on the contrary, an insufficient amount of fuel is supplied. In this case, it's simple.

Mechanical problems with the engine

If all the above methods did not save, and the engine still pulls the car badly, then it is time to entrust the matter to professionals - go to a good car service and diagnose the operation of the engine - a compression check (compression ratio in the combustion chambers), for example, can say a lot about work engine, including the approach to the limit of its resource and the upcoming costly repairs.

Fuel system malfunction

It is also quite likely that the reason for the drop in engine torque is a violation of the normal operation of the fuel supply system to the cylinders, and there may also be a number of reasons that the engine is not gaining momentum, let's list the main ones:

• A faulty (dirty) fuel pump due, for example, to low-quality fuel or gasoline being sucked out from the bottom of the tank, where most of the foreign particles of dirt have settled.
• Faulty injector or oxygen sensor.
• Leakage in hoses or fuel supply pipes where air is sucked in.

Catalyst or exhaust system clogged

A dirty catalytic converter or exhaust system can also cause a decrease in engine traction. In both cases, replacing the corresponding contaminated component will help. It should be borne in mind that the catalyst, as a rule, is very expensive due to the content of noble metals in it in certain quantities.

We have listed the main and most likely causes of a possible loss of engine power - you need to remember that there are a great many such reasons, and if you were unable to install them yourself, then you definitely need to go to a car service workshop to entrust this matter to professionals.

Engine problems can ruin any trip. Of course, a car is not a plane. If he suddenly stops, nothing terrible will happen. And in order to deal with the problem in the car, just stop on the side of the road and look under the hood. But sometimes the car has to be sent to a car service. And there, the mechanic will tell the car owner that the cause of the problems with the engine lay literally on the surface, and it could well have been eliminated on its own. But the owner didn't know that. Especially often this situation is observed when the engine suddenly loses power. In this article, we will explain why this can happen and how you can deal with it.

Detection of power reduction in the car

This does not require special skills. It is enough just to observe how the engine behaves in different situations. Here are the main signs of power dips:

• The car does not respond well to pressing the gas pedal, there are delays of several seconds. This can happen both at the moment of starting the movement, and after picking up speed.
• While driving, the engine speed suddenly drops for no apparent reason. Most often this is observed after a set of speeds.
• After pressing the gas pedal, a series of jerks occurs, after which the engine stalls. But if you press the gas pedal harder, the jerks disappear, the engine runs normally.

Checking power indicators on the stands

Sometimes engine problems are not as obvious as shown above. But that doesn't mean they don't exist. Even the power of the motor may decrease after an unsuccessful chip tuning, but this can only be found out with the help of instruments. In such a situation, special equipment is used to check cars: a roller stand and a computer on which specialized software is installed. Such equipment makes it possible to check the parameters of machines whose power reaches 740 hp. With. on the axle. The car is fixed on the stand with a special mount, and its engine accelerates as much as possible. All bench rollers have a brake system that prevents acceleration. As soon as the engine reaches maximum speed, the roller brake system is activated. And the car "rolls freely" until it stops. All this time the computer takes measurements. It captures power losses in the transmission and a number of other parameters. Based on these measurements, the characteristics of the motor are calculated using special formulas and a graph is created that shows how the engine torque and its power depend on the speed. As a rule, there are 4 curves on such graphs. Two show power, two more show engine torque, and 2 curves are necessarily red, and 2 are black. The black curves show the engine torque and power at factory settings. And the red ones show the moment and power after chip tuning (if any). Any power drawdown on a real engine is shown as a drawdown on the graph.

On carbureted engines

• The glow number on the spark plugs used does not match the one specified in the instructions.
• The high-voltage wires leading to the candles are damaged.
• Poor quality of gasoline.
• The air filter is clogged, as a result, the mixture is supplied to the engine without the proper amount of air, and therefore burns much worse.
• The fuel filter is clogged, as a result, the amount of fuel entering the combustion chambers is limited.
• Mechanical problems with the engine itself. Worn piston rings, knocked down valve clearances, etc. All this leads to a decrease in compression and power.
• Carburetor chokes do not open wide enough.
• The economizer valve has worn out and started to stick.
• The float in the carburetor is defective, as a result, the fuel level may either be too high or, conversely, too low.
• The throughput of carburetor channels and jets has deteriorated. This is mainly due to blockage or poor carb settings.

On injection

• The ECU (i.e., electronic control unit) of the car intermittently fails.
• The outer screen of the fuel pump is dirty.
• One or more nozzles clogged.
• The sensors directly related to the operation of the engine failed.
• The car's lambda probe is out of order.
• In injection engines, mechanical problems, problems with spark plugs, problems with high-voltage wires, which have already been mentioned above, are also possible.

On diesel

Some of the causes of power dips listed above apply to diesel engines as well. But diesels are also associated with a number of specific points that should be mentioned. One of the most common causes of power failure in a diesel engine is the failure of the turbocharger. When this unit fails, it, as a rule, begins to emit a characteristic whistle, which is difficult to confuse with something. But in order to establish the breakdown accurately, you will have to send the car to a car service. There it will be scanned and the problem will be identified. Why can turbocharging turn off? Here are some options.

• The charge air pressure sensor has failed.
• The turbine has simply exhausted its factory resource.
• The tightness of the joint between the compressor and the motor is broken.
• The air path is clogged.
• There was a coking of the turbocharger axis, as a result of which its rotation slowed down.
• The turbocharger shut-off valve failed.

A characteristic external sign of a compressor failure is blue smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe. It occurs due to the burning of oil, the excess of which enters the combustion chambers of the cylinders due to leaks in the compressor. If the tightness of the compressor discharge line is broken, air is sucked in, the mixture becomes too rich. When it burns out, not blue, but black smoke comes out of the pipe. Finally, white smoke indicates that the oil line that drains oil from the compressor is clogged.

Power drops due to clogged catalytic converter

There are several signs that make it possible to understand that the problem is in the catalyst. Here they are:

• From the moment of start, the car goes with difficulty and reacts badly to pressing the gas pedal. But after a while, the engine seems to have a second wind, the problems disappear, and it starts to work normally.
• The loss of power builds up gradually: at first the car travels at a speed of 120 km/h, then the speed drops to 100 km/h, and then the engine can hardly accelerate to 90 km/h.
• The most difficult case: the engine starts and immediately stalls. Or it doesn't start at all.

There are many reasons why a catalytic converter can become clogged. We list the most common:

• Due to malfunctions in the fuel system, the exhaust of the car contains too much oil, which leads to clogging. The problem manifests itself much faster if the throughput cells of the catalyst are very small. In this case, to score them, a few drops of oil are enough, which, having fallen on them, are literally welded.
• Poor fuel quality. If the fuel is bad, it often cannot burn completely, and its unburned residues can cause overheating in the catalyst, and then partial melting.
• Mechanical damage. A flying stone, an unsuccessful hitting a speed bump or a curb - all this can damage the catalyst, and its "stuffing" is very fragile. Honeycombs break, their fragments get stuck in the holes of other honeycombs, which causes clogging.

Self troubleshooting

It is possible to eliminate power failures on your own only when the causes that caused the failures can be easily eliminated even by a novice motorist.

• If it turned out that there are candles with the wrong glow number in the car, then it is quite possible to buy and install new candles, having previously specified the correct glow number in the instructions.
• If the gaps between the spark plug electrodes are clogged, and so-called jumpers have formed on them, then they can be completely eliminated with a piece of coarse sandpaper.
• You can also inspect and, if necessary, replace damaged high-voltage wires yourself.
• Cleaning the fuel filter mesh in most cases is also not difficult. As a rule, for this it is enough to unscrew a few screws that hold the filter cover.
• You can also replace a clogged air filter yourself. But before going to the car shop, you should still look into the operating instructions for the car to clarify the parameters and brand of the filter.

In all other situations, you can not do without the help of a qualified mechanic. The car will have to be driven to a car service, since a novice car enthusiast will do more harm than good with his actions.

The worst thing about power dips is that they can be caused by a huge number of things. And it can take a very long time to identify the real cause of failures, much longer than the repair itself. Therefore, the most reasonable way out is to entrust the search for causes to professionals. They have not only the necessary experience, but also a lot of special equipment. An exception can only be the cases indicated above, when the cause of the malfunction lies on the surface.

I welcome you friends to the DIY car repair site. A good car enthusiast knows the capabilities of his "horse" and its potential on the road. That is why any drop in engine power immediately catches the eye.

Another thing is that it is not so easy to determine the cause of this phenomenon. In this article, we will consider the problem from all sides and highlight the main causes of engine power loss.

Common engine power loss problems

In most cases, a decrease in traction is caused by the following reasons:

1. Poor fuel quality. If the car lost its power immediately after leaving the gas station, then the cause of the problems is the poor quality of gasoline. The result is a loss of power when the engine is hot. In the worst case, there are problems with the plant of the power unit.

The only way out in this case is to completely drain the old and fill in new fuel. If this is not done, then you can completely ruin the power unit.

The main symptom of bad gas is not only the loss of engine power. Often the problem pretends to be difficulties with starting, the appearance of soot on the contact group of candles and a reddish coating on their “skirts”.

2. Clogged air filter. Often the engine does not develop full power for a simpler reason - due to pollution. air filter . It is easy to explain this - the air-fuel mixture enters the engine without a sufficient amount of air, which worsens the quality of its combustion. As a result, the agility of the power node also falls.

The easiest way to solve the problem here is to install a new filter element. As a rule, it costs mere "penny", and you can make a replacement yourself and without involving expensive specialists.

3. Dirty or old spark plugs. If you have not changed the spark plugs in the engine for a long time, then you should definitely do it. Dirty spark plug electrodes, excessive wear, gap changes can all affect the quality of ignition and the efficiency of combustion of the air-fuel mixture.

In this case, you need to do two things - figure out what are the reasons for the contamination of the candles (if they have changed recently) and install new ones.

4. Clogged fuel filter. Some beginners are not even aware of the existence of such a device. In fact fuel filter plays a key role in engine performance.

If the device is clogged with various "garbage", then a limited amount of fuel will flow to the engine. The result is a sharp decrease in power. In this case, the best solution is the usual replacement of the fuel filter.

5. Problems with the engine on the mechanical side. In the worst cases, the reason for the decrease in power is a malfunction of the power unit itself - a decrease in compression, wear of piston rings, a change in valve clearance, and so on. In such situations, you can not do without a trip to the specialists and engine repair.

6. Fuel system. Another reason for reducing the thrust of the power unit is a malfunction in the fuel supply system. Here we are talking about a whole group of problems:

• Oxygen sensor malfunctions or injector;
• fuel pump failure. For example, due to the low quality of fuel or the retraction of gasoline from the bottom of the tank (this is where most of the dirt settles);
• depressurization of pipes and hoses through which fuel is supplied, and so on.

7. Contamination of the catalyst and exhaust system also one of the reasons for reducing the thrust of the power unit. To eliminate the problem, it is necessary to replace the catalyst. At the same time, you need to be prepared for certain expenses, because such a detail can be very expensive.

Loss of engine power on the injector and carburetor

When looking for a reason for reducing the thrust of a power unit, one must take into account the type of the engine itself - carburetor or injection.

Consider the probable malfunctions for each of the options:

1. The loss of power of the injection engine may be caused by the following reasons:

• Air or fuel filter contamination;
• low pressure, which is created by the fuel pump;
• contamination of the fuel pump grid;
• malfunctions of the car ECU;
• nozzle contamination;
• breakdown of the main sensors associated with the operation of the power unit;
• failure of the fuel pressure regulator;
• malfunction lambda probe and so on.

2. With a decrease in the power of the carburetor engine, the reasons may be as follows:

• Dirty fuel pump fittings or low pressure;
• carburetor contamination or needle valve problems;
• errors in the regulation of the composition of the air-fuel mixture;
• insufficient opening of the carburetor dampers;
• economizer valve sticking;
• decrease or excessive overestimation of the fuel level in the engine (may be caused by a malfunction of the float element);
• deterioration in the throughput of jets and carburetor channels, and so on.

When the first problems with the traction of the power unit appear, it is necessary to make a complete diagnosis, determine the cause of the malfunction and be sure to eliminate it. Otherwise, the consequences can be the most unpredictable. Good luck on the road and of course no breakdowns.

During the operation of the car, many owners face a number of problems. One of them is a decrease in engine power. At the same time, it is not always clear what is the reason for this phenomenon, what measures to take, whether it is worth going to the service station. Let's talk about the main reasons why the engine does not pull and how you can fix the problem on your own.

The main reasons for reducing engine power

1. Malfunction of the crankshaft position sensor

There are situations when the DKPV does not send a control command to supply the air-fuel mixture in a timely manner. As a result, the power of the power unit drops before our eyes. The main reason for the failure is the shift of the gear star in relation to the pulley and the bundle of the damper. In such a situation, it is necessary to carefully inspect the damper and replace it.

2. Increase (decrease) the gap between the electrodes of the candles

During operation, due to the powerful temperature effect, the distance between the electrodes of the spark plug may decrease or increase. To exclude or confirm your suspicion, you need to check the size of the gaps with a round feeler gauge. If the distance is less or more than the allowable one, you need to adjust by bending the side of the electrode or replace the spark plug. As for the optimal distance of the spark gap, it can be different (depending on the type of candle) - 0.7-1.0 mm.

3. The appearance of soot on candles is another clear sign of a problem.

If the engine does not pull well, it is necessary to unscrew all the spark plugs one by one and inspect them. If obvious carbon deposits appear on the electrodes, the device must be cleaned with a brush with a metal bristle. It is important not only to clean the candles or replace them, but also to find out the cause of this phenomenon.

4. Failure of spark plugs

Reduced engine power may be caused by product failure. In this case, it is necessary to check the performance of the candle on a special stand. If the suspicions are confirmed, then the only way out is to replace the set or one candle.

5. There is no gas in the tank

You can diagnose the problem by looking at the fuel gauge. If it is faulty or there is a suspicion of its “inadequacy”, then the presence of fuel can be determined by removing the fuel pump.

6. Fuel filter contamination, water freezing in the system, fuel wire pinching, fuel pump failure

All these malfunctions can be safely attributed to one category, because they all have the same symptoms - the starter cranks the engine, but there is no smell of fuel from the exhaust pipe. If the car is carbureted, then the cause must be sought in the float chamber. Most likely it is not getting fuel. In the case of an injector, the presence of fuel in the rail is easier to check by pressing a special spool (installed at the end of the rail).

To correct the problem, it is necessary to warm up the engine thoroughly and bleed the power system with a tire pump. After that, all the pipes of the system, hoses and the fuel pump itself are changed.

7. The fuel pump creates too little pressure

Such a problem can only be determined by special measurements (made directly at the outlet of the fuel pump). After that, the quality of the fuel pump filter is checked.

The solution is to clean the fuel pump filter, replace it (if repair is not possible) or install a new fuel pump.

8. Poor contact quality in the circuit

Poor quality of the contact in the circuit through which the fuel pump is powered or the failure of its relay. The first thing to do to check is to make sure the quality of the "ground" on the car and take resistance measurements with a multimeter. If the resistance level is really high, then the only way out is to strip the contact groups, crimp the terminals well or install a relay (if the old one is faulty).

9. Broken nozzles or malfunction in the supply system

If there is a suspicion of failure of these elements, it is necessary to check the resistance of the windings with a multimeter for the fact of an open circuit or an interturn circuit. If the cause of the problem is a malfunction of the computer, then such a check can be carried out exclusively at the service station.

There are several ways to eliminate the decrease in engine power for this reason (depending on the depth of the problem) - install a new computer, clean all nozzles, ensure high-quality contact in the electrical circuit, and so on.

10. Breakdown of the DPKV

Breakage of DPKV - crankshaft position sensor or damage to its circuit. In such a situation, the check engine malfunction lamp lights up. The first thing to do is to inspect the integrity of the DCPV itself, make sure that the gap between the ring gear and the sensor is normal (it should be about one millimeter). The normal resistance of the sensor coil is about 600-700 ohms.

To solve the problem, it is enough to restore normal contact in the electrical circuit and install a new sensor (if the old one turned out to be faulty).

11. Out of order DTOZH

DTOZH - a sensor that controls the temperature of the coolant is out of order. Symptoms of a malfunction are as follows - the engine malfunction lamp lights up. If there is a break, then the electric fan of the system begins to rotate continuously. In addition, it is necessary to check the health of the sensor itself.

If the engine power has dropped for this reason, then it is necessary to restore the quality of the contact in the electrical circuit and install a new sensor.

12. Out of order TPS

The TPS is out of order - a sensor that controls the correct position of the throttle valve (or its chain). As in previous cases, the “Check engine” lamp lights up here. If there is an open in the TPS circuit, then the engine speed usually does not drop below one and a half thousand revolutions.

The solution to the problem is to clean the throttle assembly and restore the quality of the contact connection in the entire electrical circuit. If the sensor is defective and cannot be repaired, it must be replaced.

13. Out of order DMRV

The DMRV, a sensor responsible for controlling mass fuel consumption, failed. Here, the optimal action is to check the integrity of the DMRV or replace it with a serviceable device. If the failure of the DMRV is confirmed, then it is necessary to make an attempt to clean it, and if it is impossible to repair, simply replace it.

14. Breakage of the knock sensor

Detonation sensor failure. With such a malfunction, the engine malfunction lamp necessarily lights up on the instrument panel. In addition, when DD detonation fails, there is no detonation in any of the operating modes of the power unit and the engine power also drops. With such a problem, the best option is to restore the integrity of the contact group in the electrical circuit and install a new sensor.

15. Failure of the oxygen sensor

Failure of the oxygen sensor or a violation of its circuit. Such a malfunction is characterized by the ignition of the "Check engine" lamp. In this case, the first thing to do is to check the heating coil for integrity. Firstly, the resistance is measured, and secondly, the voltage level at the output. Measurement can be done even without breaking the circuit - just pierce the insulation with needles.

To eliminate the malfunction, it is worth repairing the oxygen sensor, restoring the quality of the wiring and cleaning all the holes through which air is sucked in. In extreme cases, it is necessary to replace the oxygen sensor itself.

16. Depressurization of the exhaust system

Diagnosing such a problem is simple - just inspect the main elements while the engine is running at medium speeds. To solve the problem, it is necessary to replace the exhaust manifold gasket and stretch all the seals.

17. Computer failure

Failure of the electronic control unit (ECU). Despite its reliability, the ECU can also break down (sometimes its software just gets lost). To make sure that the computer is working (failure of the computer), you need to check the voltage on the unit itself (the normal parameter is about 12 Volts) or replace it with a known-good unit. If the control unit is defective, it may need to be replaced. In some cases, it is enough to change only the wiring.

18. Violation of the adjustment of clearances in the valve drive

You can make sure that the parameters match only by checking with special probes. If the gaps do not correspond to the norm (written in the manual), then adjustments must be made.

19. Deformation or breakage of the springs on the valves

In this case, you will have to remove the cylinder head and measure the length of the springs under load and in a free state. If broken or deformed springs were found, then they need to be changed.

20. Worn camshaft lobes

Here it will be enough to visually inspect (after removing the necessary elements) and replace the camshaft if necessary.

21. Disordered valve timing

In such cases, it is necessary to check the fact that the marks on the camshaft and crankshaft coincide. If there is an “imbalance”, then it is enough to set the correct position using special marks.

22. Low cylinder compression

Low compression in all or some cylinders. Causes include likely valve damage or wear, broken or sticky piston rings. To verify the suspicions or refute them, it is enough to make the necessary measurements. If the suspicion is confirmed, then it is necessary to repair the power unit - change the rings, pistons or repair the cylinders.

Conclusion

The above list is only a part of the malfunctions, due to which the engine power drops. But in most cases, this is enough to diagnose the problem, fix it, and return much-needed traction to your “iron horse”.

The car does not drive, it pulls badly, it seems that someone is holding it from behind, you press the “gas” all the way to the floor, and the engine response is sluggish. Such statements are inherent in many motorists who are faced with a drop in the power and throttle response of a car engine. There can be many reasons for this malfunction (, himself, etc.). In this article, we will consider the reasons for the drop in power and throttle response of a carburettor engine of a car associated with the ignition system.

Almost always, most auto repairers recommend first fixing problems with the ignition system, and then getting into the carburetor and other systems. As an example, for troubleshooting, let's take the carburetor engines of front-wheel drive cars VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 with a non-contact ignition system.

The main reasons for the drop in power and throttle response of the carburetor engine of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 vehicles associated with the ignition system

- Ignition timing set incorrectly

operation of the centrifugal ignition timing controller for VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars

- The vacuum supply tube to the vacuum ignition timing regulator in the distributor has flown off or is leaky

The vacuum ignition advance controller also makes the ignition somewhat earlier in power modes in order to increase greater efficiency from the engine. For example, if the car pulls poorly on a hill, one of the most likely causes is a failed vacuum regulator.

vacuum ignition timing regulator for VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars

- Faulty spark plugs

Most often, faulty spark plugs give themselves out as pops in the muffler and unstable idling of the car's engine. Spark plugs are checked by soot on the electrodes, the state of the electrodes themselves, between us. A serviceable candle has a brown soot (different shades are possible). A faulty one will most often be with or oily.

In addition, a test with starting the engine in the dark and detecting a glow on the body of the candles can check for the presence of a “breakdown” of the candle insulator. You should also pay attention to the appropriateness of the spark plugs for this engine (See). If during the inspection it is not possible to identify a malfunction, then instead of the old candles we install a set of new ones.

black soot on spark plugs

- Broken high voltage wires

The influence of high-voltage wires on the operation of the engine in power modes is enormous, since the failure of at least one of them disables one cylinder. And then what kind of power and throttle response can we talk about at all. Faulty high-voltage wires (armored wires) most often give themselves out as unstable engine idling and misfiring (claps in the muffler). The truth is not always. Therefore, it is best to check them with a tester (See). But first of all, of course, their visual inspection is necessary (contamination, cracks, condition of contacts and protective tips) and a “breakdown” test with starting the engine in the dark and checking the glow on the wires.

checking the central core of a high-voltage wire

- Faulty switch

Complete failure of the switch will result in the inability to start the engine. In the event of a loss of power and throttle response of the engine of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, we are talking about its incorrect operation. In such a situation, only replacing the switch with a known-good one can clarify the situation. You can roughly estimate whether the switch is working or not according to the readings of the voltmeter ().

switch of the ignition system of cars VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099

Notes and additions

- The drop in power and throttle response of a car engine is also affected by: “punched” ignition coil cover, slider, distributor cover, Hall sensor. But these malfunctions are manifested, in addition to everything, by unstable operation of the engine until it stops, a problem with starting, which is not always the case for the main reasons listed above.