What to change ford fusion. Ford Fusion

The Ford Fusion subcompact van began production in the fall of 2002 and ran on the assembly line until mid-2012. The Fusion was developed by Ford Europe based on the Ford Fiesta. Fusion's mission was to fill a gap between Ford's popular Fiesta and Focus models. The car was assembled in Germany, at a factory in Cologne. In 2005, Ford Fusion has undergone restyling. The changes affected the front and rear bumpers, lighting and front panel.

Ford Fusion (2002-2005)

Engines

The Ford Fusion has three petrol engines and two diesel engines. The most modest gasoline aspirated engine with a working volume of 1.2 liters with a power of 75 hp, which appeared after restyling, was not widely used. The most popular cars with gasoline engines 1.4 l 80 hp. and 1.6 l 100 hp A diesel version with a 1.4 TDCi 68 hp unit is also common. Released after restyling, 1.6TDCi 90 hp occurs less frequently.

In general, all motors are quite reliable, without serious problems. The engines received a belt-type timing drive with a recommended replacement interval of 160,000 km. But car services recommend making the first replacement already at 100-120 thousand km. The cost of a complete timing kit along with a “pomp” is about 8-12 thousand rubles. For drive belts of mounted units, you need to pay another 2-3 thousand rubles.

On gasoline versions of the Ford Fusion with 1.4 and 1.6 liter engines, there are unpleasant cases of rupture of the plastic intake manifold. The cost of a new collector is about 15-25 thousand rubles. Incidents are rare and possibly related to malfunctioning ECU and fuel injectors.

The 1.6 liter engine often stalls immediately after the start and starts only the second or third time - “double start”. The reason for this behavior is not clear. Replacing the spark plugs, fuel filter and cleaning the throttle with injectors does not help. It is noticed that the “double start” appears in the off-season and with an increase in humidity. Most owners have resigned themselves and do not pay any attention to the problem.

Ford Fusion (2005-2012)

1.4 TDCi after 100-150 thousand km may require the replacement of copper o-rings under the injectors or cleaning the EGR valve. About 3 thousand rubles will be asked for the cleaning procedure, a new valve will cost 12-13 thousand rubles.

"Pump" on Ford engines can leak after 60-100 thousand km. A new original cooling system pump costs about 4-6 thousand rubles, an analogue - about 2-3 thousand rubles. At about the same time, the radiator may also “siphon”. After 100-130 thousand km, leakage of the thermostat gasket or a plastic case warped from heating may occur. After 150-200 thousand km, there are cases of expansion tank cracking.

Due to deposits on the throttle after 60-100 thousand km, idling speed can float, the engine stalls after warming up, and the “gear” lights up on the dashboard. After cleaning the damper, the disease goes away.

After 60-120 thousand km, the starter may stop working due to the failure of the bendix - about 500 rubles. Supports (pillows) of the engine serve more than 100-150 thousand km. By the same time, the catalytic converter may also “take a bow”.

Transmission

Three types of gearboxes were installed on the Ford Fusion: a 5-speed manual with any of the engines, a 5-speed "robot" with a 1.4 liter gasoline or 1.4 TDCi and 1.6 TDCi diesel, as well as 4 step "automatic" with gasoline 1.6 liters.

Ford Fusion (2002-2005)

The most widely used 5-speed manual gearbox. The box itself is solid. A clutch disc with a release bearing mounted on a conveyor is often rented out after 60-120 thousand km. The cost of a new disc with a basket in official services is about 13-15 thousand rubles, and a release disc is about 6-7 thousand rubles. In car dealerships, the clutch kit is cheaper: about 9-10 thousand rubles - the original disc with a basket, 3-4 thousand rubles - an analogue and about 3-4 thousand rubles - the original clutch release, 2-3 thousand rubles - analogue.

Many Fusion owners have noticed a clicking sound when the clutch pedal is depressed. Clicks are emitted by the clutch master cylinder rod - a feature of the assembly. Many left with clicks for more than 100 thousand km, but the “main” did not fail. Replacing the GCC does not guarantee that the clicks will not reappear soon.

Often, after 60-80 thousand km, the axle drive seal begins to leak (300-500 rubles). At the same run, the outboard bearing of the intermediate shaft of the right drive may buzz. A new original bearing will require about 2-3 thousand rubles, an analogue - 1-2 thousand rubles.

With a run of more than 60-100 thousand km, the gear lever often becomes tight, and reverse and 3-4-5 gears are hardly engaged. The situation is especially aggravated with the advent of frost. To cure, cleaning and lubrication of the gearshift mechanism is necessary.

Ford Fusion (2005-2012)

Robotic and manual gearboxes are completely identical. They differ only in the presence of a servo instead of cables in the manual transmission and the large size of the manual transmission clutch disc. The clutch resource and the order of prices approximately correspond to analogues in the manual transmission. Here, just like on a manual transmission, one has to deal with the need to replace the drive oil seal and the outboard bearing of the intermediate shaft of the right drive. In addition, after 70-120 thousand km, there are cases of leakage of the gear selector stem seal.

One of the features of the “robot” is the incomplete clutch release, due to which the gears are switched with a characteristic sound. With a run of more than 50-100 thousand km, problems often arise with the operation of the robotic box due to a wire break in the electrical harness hanging freely under the unit. To return the box to operation, it is necessary to find a break, connect the wires, insulate well and close the harness with a protective corrugation. The procedure is simple and does not require large expenses. After 100-140 thousand km, the actuating device servo rods may be wedged. A new actuator is expensive - about 40-45 thousand rubles. But the performance of the servo can be restored: for this, it is necessary to remove the scuffs and lubricate the assembly.

There are practically no complaints about the operation of the automatic transmission.

Chassis

The first in the suspension after 60-80 thousand km are the front stabilizer struts (300-400 rubles). Rear shock absorbers nurse more than 60-100 thousand km. The cost of a new original shock absorber is about 4-5 thousand rubles, an analogue is about 2-3 thousand rubles. Front shock absorbers, as a rule, last longer - more than 80-120 thousand km. The front suspension strut will cost 4-5 thousand rubles. Suspension arms rarely wear out up to 150-200 thousand km. After 150-200 thousand km, there are cases of breakage of the coil of the front spring. Steering tips and traction care up to 80-100 thousand km.

Ford Fusion (2002-2005)

Front wheel bearings run more than 60-100 thousand km (2-4 thousand rubles for an analogue), rear ones - more than 80-120 thousand km. The outer CV joint may require replacement after 80-120 thousand km.

There are frequent cases of failure of the power steering pump after 60-100 thousand km. The harbinger of a breakdown is a hum that has appeared. The cost of a new pump for "officials" is about 14-16 thousand rubles. Due to a design flaw, after 50-100 thousand km, power steering tubes often begin to leak. The cost of a new tube is about 3 thousand rubles. After 100-150 thousand km, there are cases of steering rack leakage. The cost of a rail bulkhead is about 12-14 thousand rubles.

Body and interior

The quality of the Ford Fusion body paintwork is common for modern cars: it is easily scratched and becomes chipped over time. On cars older than 4-5 years, moldings on the side doors often peel off. In winter, in cold weather, when you try to open the hood by the radiator grille, the grille mount often breaks.

Water in the rear lights may be due to a leaky seal. Clogged drain holes often cause water to accumulate in the thresholds.

Heating of side mirrors with regular use rarely lasts more than 60-80 thousand km. After 4-5 years of operation, there are often problems with opening the tailgate due to the failure of the electric lock motor. The cost of a new castle is about 3-5 thousand rubles. But many manage to save money by picking up a similar motor. After 100-150 thousand km, the rear wiper motor drive often fails.

Knocks in the rear of the Ford Fusion may appear due to the parking brake cable jumping out of the mount, which begins to rattle along the body. Plastic in the cabin often creaks: more often "crickets" settle in the front panel and middle racks. Often, when “rolling” over bumps, doorways creak due to seals or door locks.

Ford Fusion (2005-2012)

After 60-80 thousand km, scuffs appear on the gear lever cover, steering wheel and interior door handles.

There are cases of water in the cabin Fusion. As a rule, one of the following ways of its entry is detected: at the point of transition to the engine compartment of the steering column, electrical harness or cable for opening the hood lock due to the drying of the seal; due to clogged sill drains and through the places where the hinges of the tailgate shock absorbers are attached to the body that have lost their tightness.

The heater fan may whistle after 70-140 thousand km. Due to the failure of the thermal fuse (100-200 rubles), the fan speed controller may fail, which will start blowing only at the 4th speed, ignoring modes 1-2-3. Problems with interior cooling are usually associated with a loss of tightness of the air conditioning tubes. The cost of a new original tube is about 7 thousand rubles, an analogue is about 4-5 thousand rubles.

Often, Ford Fusion owners have to change outdoor lighting lamps that burn out every 20-30 thousand km. Most often, the dipped beam and brake lights burn out. After 60-100 thousand km, the steering column switch may fail - the contacts burn out. Problems with the generator occur after 150-200 thousand km.

Conclusion

Summing up, we can conclude that the Ford Fusion is quite a reliable car. In any case, you don’t have to fork out for expensive engine and gearbox repairs. The suspension is not hardy enough, but not expensive to repair. In other areas, the picture differs little from most modern cars in this price range.

20.08.2018

Not so long ago, an alarming message was received by the owner of the car mentioned in the title in the Whatsapp messenger of our master receiver: when the stove is turned on, the engine temperature drops very quickly. And that means in the car, too. And if the owner can come to terms with the first fact, then with the second - well, nothing. The receptionist immediately, but presumably, made a diagnosis of "thermostat", and urged the car owner to come as soon as possible - to fix the car, drink tea and coffee, sit by the stove. Well, he arrived, but where to go.

The Ford Fusion repair technique is simple and unpretentious. The first and main step, which you can’t do without, is to look under the hood and swear loudly at the linkers of the engine compartment. No, they are great, actually, so much to cram into such a limited space.

Usually with cars of this layout (engine across, gearbox to the left of the engine in the direction of travel), the thermostat is located somewhere above the box, plus or minus, of course. Well, just poke with your eyes closed - you won't miss. Ford, however, went his own way and placed the thermostat right next to the pump. What is next to the pump is not scary in itself, but what is under the generator is worse. It's in there somewhere:

See the thermostat in the photo? And I don't see. And he is there. To begin with, let's throw off the headlight, fortunately, for this you need to unscrew only three screws:

Well, here he is, two hoses come straight to him:

In general, if you google for "fusion thermostat replacement", you can find a report in which a long clip-der and a complex structure with three cardan shafts appear, at the end of which there is a head for 8.

Unfortunately, we didn’t have gynecologists in the service that day, so, having uttered the usual mantra (I don’t translate it and don’t voice it, my French is bad ...), we started removing the generator. There is no belt tensioner on this Duratec 1.6. Belts are put on fixed pulleys. Literally stretches. In general, who does not remember, Duratec is from the word durable - reliability, therefore. But when you look at these design solutions, you understand that not only reliability was the reason for such a name. Well, let's put aside our linguistic research, the machine won't make itself.

In general, according to the service manual, these belts must be cut to remove and put new ones. But we are not dealers, we can deviate from service manuals. Therefore, for removal, the lower bolt of the generator is simply loosened, and the upper bolt and stud are completely unscrewed. Then, when the belt is removed, the generator limply falls into our hands:

The belt is hanging, intact, and waiting to be returned to its place:

Alternator mounting bolts:

And finally, we can normally get to the thermostat housing:

In general, “normal” is a relative concept in this case, the basic course of technical gynecology must be passed. Specifically, besides this bolt, which is in plain sight, there are three more. Two under the body, and one close, close to the intake manifold. To get them, all three, and not to drop them - the task is still the same. But here we finally unscrewed the thermostat housing, and got the hero of the occasion:

The rubber band worn on the thermostat turned out to be an insidious spare part. First, a new thermostat was installed with a new rubber band. Then, when the antifreeze poured into a stream, we guessed that something had gone wrong. We compared the outer radius of the old and new gum - they differed quite a lot. The new one is noticeably smaller. There is nothing to do - they put it with the old one. Now, when pouring antifreeze, it just dripped. It turned out that where the second antifreeze channel goes, the gasket was also quite worn out. Having uttered another technological spell, we took out a scarce Toyota sealant from the warehouse for a thousand per tube, applied it to the thermostat housing, and installed it for the third time, accompanying this with such words that provide an increase in tightness by at least one degree.

For understanding - we are talking about gaskets, indicated in the diagram below as 8590 and 6840A.

By the way, during installation, a life hack peeped from nikolagrek.livejournal.com really saves - put a bolt in the head with a paper seal. Then it does not fall out and is firmly held. Otherwise, it's scary to think how many times it would have to be dropped before it spun into place.

Then everything is simple. The generator must be put on the lower bolt (screwing it literally five to ten turns so that it is already firmly held, but gives the generator enough freedom), put a belt on it, then raise the generator as high as possible, insert the upper bolt and pin, knock them out a little, so that they reach the thread entry - and screw it in. In the case when the belt is already quite a few years old and it has stretched well, it works. It is not recommended to repeat such an action on a fresh belt, since, firstly, it will be very difficult to tighten it until the studs enter the hole, and secondly, with such efforts, it is possible to spoil the thread in the aluminum bracket, which will be quite unpleasant. If the belt is not very stretched yet - there are no options, it is better to put it on only in the classic way.

The summary of all this is:
- when replacing the thermostat on this engine, pay special attention to the outer diameter of the thermostat gasket, and also be sure to order a second gasket;
- a head of 15 - must be in the household of a self-respecting fusion grower;
- a mandrel for putting on the alternator belt must be in the possession of a self-respecting serviceman serving fusions.

P.S. The article was not written for auto repair professionals, they know all this, but car owners can come in handy: the main stages are described, the difficulties are voiced, and now is the time to decide whether to do it yourself or go to a car service?

Replacing antifreeze with a Ford Fusion is carried out according to a standard procedure, the procedure for which is conventionally divided into three stages - draining, flushing and filling in new coolant. For independent actions, the process will require certain technical knowledge and skills from the car owner, as well as up to three hours of free time.

When should I change the antifreeze in a Ford Fusion?

On the question of how to replace antifreeze with a Ford Fusion, the topical aspect is periodicity this procedure. For a car purchased from the manufacturer, the period is based on mileage, the coolant is changed after 60-90 thousand km.

For new antifreeze, the replacement frequency is determined by the service life indicated on the consumable canister. Usually it is up to 5 years, but this period is relevant in the absence of other factors requiring early replacement of the coolant.

Causes Antifreeze can be replaced by the following factors:

• the engine regularly overheats during operation - the coolant cannot cope with the load, the appearance of foam in the expansion tank and the gradual boiling off of antifreeze become confirmation;
• leak - a regular decrease in the level of the coolant may indicate a malfunction and deterioration of the connections through which the antifreeze flows, a check of the entire system and replacement of parts is required;
• color change - a red, brown or black tint indicates poor product quality and loss of cooling properties; without timely replacement, such a coolant will lead to rapid corrosion of the components involved.

To replace antifreeze for Ford Fusion, about 6-7 liters of a ready-made solution will be required. If a concentrate is purchased, the volume is calculated taking into account the addition of distillate. The optimal ratio is considered to be 1:1, for which 3-3.5 liters of concentrate and the same amount of distilled water are purchased, respectively. Mixing is recommended to be carried out in a separate container and a ready-made solution is poured into the system.

During the replacement of antifreeze at the Ford Fusion, attention is paid to general safety regulations:

• all manipulations are performed on a cooled engine - this avoids thermal burns and high pressure in the system;
• when cooling, the pressure decreases, however, when uncorking caps and plugs, possible splashes and antifreeze getting on hands and face should be taken into account;
• coolant, both used and just purchased, has a high degree of toxicity - all actions should be carried out with rubber gloves, and if antifreeze gets on the skin, it is washed off with plenty of water;
• taking into account the high level of toxicity, it is not allowed to drain the coolant into the soil, they also limit the presence of children and animals nearby.

In the context of the above safety precautions, to replace antifreeze with a Ford Fusion, you will need the following equipment:

• rubber gloves, clean rag or rags;
• a set of screwdrivers and keys, a pumping pear or syringe, pliers, pliers, use a compressor if possible;
• a drain container with a volume of 6 liters or more, additionally prepare a container for flushing the system;
• consumables - new antifreeze, distilled water, flushing agent.

At the preliminary stage of preparation, it is also recommended to view the entire cooling system and its components for faults and worn parts. In order not to have to change the antifreeze soon due to their failure, they buy new components and make a simultaneous preventive replacement.

You should buy consumables only from authorized dealers and trusted suppliers. When buying, they are guided by the recommendations of the manufacturer, excessive savings may soon turn into costly repairs to more serious car units.

For Ford Fusion cars, pay attention to the following antifreeze classes:

• G12 is suitable for cars up to 2002, recommended brands are G-Energy, MOTUL Ultra, Lukoil Ultra;
• G12 + will suit cars of 2002-08, pay attention to the brands MOTUL Ultra, Lukoil Ultra, Havoline, Chevron;
• Ford Fusion after 2010 requires a G12 ++ coolant class, Frostschutzmittel A, FEBI, Freecor DSC, Glysantin G 40 are suitable.

The amount of antifreeze to be filled in depends on the engine size. If it is designed for one and a half liters or less, you will need about 5 liters of coolant. 6.7 liters of solution are poured onto a two-liter engine. It is emphasized that, if possible, it is better to take antifreeze with a small margin in case of a leak.

First stage

Draining antifreeze from the Ford Fusion is carried out according to the general procedure, which implies the following procedure:

• the car is parked on level ground, if possible, use a repair pit or a lift;
• if the engine has not been running for a long time, it is warmed up to operating temperature, which ensures better circulation of antifreeze;
• for additional safety, the negative on the battery is turned off, and the generator is covered to prevent coolant from getting on it;
• carefully, taking into account the pressure, unscrew the plugs on the radiator and expansion tank;
• a container is placed under the drain at the bottom of the radiator, a wide basin is usually used, the plug is unscrewed;

• in some assemblies, there is also a drain on the cylinder block; a container is also placed under it;
• draining the antifreeze from the Ford Fusion tank in a separate order is usually not required - the liquid leaves by itself, in other situations it is pumped out with a syringe or pear;
• for better circulation during draining, a short warm-up of the engine is allowed; some car owners also purge the system with a compressor.

Specialists and car owners pay attention to accuracy when working with plugs and covers of the Ford Fusion cooling system. These parts are quite vulnerable and can quickly fail.

Second phase

Flushing the system is not considered mandatory if the same brand of antifreeze is poured in, and the drained coolant has retained its quality. However, experts recommend flushing with each replacement to avoid chemical interaction between the additives of the old and new solution.

The procedure for cleaning the cooling system is carried out in the following steps:

• the lower drains are clogged, if the pipes were disconnected, they are returned to their place;
• flushing agent or distilled water is poured into the system, the engine is warmed up to operating temperature;
• flushing is drained according to the same procedure as used antifreeze, if a flushing agent was used - the system must be cleaned again in a similar way with distilled water;
• the washing process with distillate is repeated until the outlet water remains relatively pure.

Many car owners simplify the flushing procedure - the lower drains are left open, and ordinary water is supplied to the system from a hose. In this case, the engine does not need to warm up after each filling and constant manipulations with plugs and connections, however, high-quality cleaning of the system from old antifreeze is not guaranteed.

Third stage

Filling in new antifreeze is the most critical step in the replacement process. For its implementation, the system is returned to its original form, leaving only the radiator and expansion tank caps open. In some assemblies, there is an air bleed plug on the radiator, if there is one, it is unscrewed.

First, antifreeze is poured into the radiator, as soon as it begins to flow through the hose into the expansion tank, the rest is poured into the tank itself. When pouring, they are careful - the coolant is supplied in a thin stream, while the bleed hoses are squeezed to prevent the formation of air locks.

After pouring, the covers are clogged and the engine is warmed up to operating temperature, the correct operation of the stove and fan is checked, and the uniform heating of the pipes of the cooling system is checked. The engine is then turned off and allowed to cool.

During the first warm-up of the engine, the level of antifreeze in the expansion tank almost always decreases - it is added again to the mark indicating the maximum limit. Also check the entire system for tight connections.

After 100-200 km of run, the condition of the antifreeze is checked again. If its level has decreased, add the required amount and check the system for possible leaks. If the color has changed or foreign impurities have appeared, a new coolant is replaced.

Differences in replacing antifreeze in other Ford models

Replacing antifreeze on Ford Fiesta, Torneo and other models of this brand of car is carried out in a similar way. Specialists and car owners do not distinguish significant differences that can drastically affect the process.

The main aspect that you should pay attention to is the location and availability of the main components of the system. Certain assemblies may not have drain plugs - in this situation, the bottom pipes are disconnected to drain.

Accessibility is also distinguished - in some cases, in order to get to the drain, it will be necessary to remove or disconnect other engine units for convenience. In order to avoid complications when replacing antifreeze on your own in Ford Torneo Custom or other cars, it is recommended to be guided by the technical documentation of your car. In case of unclear situations, they turn to specialists.

In order for the vehicle to function normally, all of its components must be in working order. And although foreign cars do not break down as often as domestic ones, from time to time they require some maintenance and repair. Therefore, now we will tell you how the timing belt is replaced on the Ford Fusion, how often it needs to be done and what is needed for this.

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In what cases is a replacement necessary?

When should the timing belt be changed? Such a replacement question occurred to every Ford Fusion owner. And not for nothing, because the gas distribution mechanism is a very important unit of the vehicle. If you do not change it in time, it can simply break off, as a result of which the operation of the vehicle will be impossible. So when should you change? The timing of the replacement is written in the service manual for the car.

However, domestic dealers advise Ford Fusion car owners to do this at least every 120 or even 100 thousand kilometers. But sometimes an element needs to be changed earlier. When? In the following cases:

• if the timing belt is already worn out enough and this can be seen from its outer surface;
• it's time to change when cracks appeared on the strap (this is especially noticeable when it is bent);
• when oil marks began to appear on the part;
• you need to change it when other defects are visible on the surface of the element (for example, the strap began to exfoliate).

Replacement instructions

We are preparing a toolkit

To replace the timing belt, you will need:

• star key;
• set of wrenches;
• screwdrivers;
• set of heads;
• torque wrench.

Stages

To carry out the replacement work, you will need an assistant:

1. First, jack up the front right wheel and remove it. After that, dismantle the motor protection and raise it slightly by substituting the support.
2. Using an asterisk wrench, unscrew the screws with which the fender liner is attached, dismantle it. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the self-tapping screws of the anther, behind which the crankshaft disk is hidden.
3. Loosen the screws on the air filter housing. When this is done, pry and remove the clamp to the side, and then dismantle the air pipe. Remove the filter cover.
4. Using a wrench, unscrew the screws that secure the antifreeze tank, remove it. You will also need to dismantle the tank in which the power steering fluid is located.
5. Using a wrench head, unscrew the nuts of the motor support, as well as the screws that secure it to the body. The motor support can be dismantled. After that, unscrew the screws securing the antifreeze pump. Then unscrew the screws securing the generator and dismantle the device or turn it slightly to the side.
6. Now you need to remove the nine screws that secure the strap cover. The protective cover can be removed. Then, when the motor support is dismantled, unscrew the screws securing it, and remove the bracket to the side.
7. Next, remove and lay aside the high voltage spark plug cables. Unscrew the plastic air filter guides. Also unscrew the screws that secure the valve cover. The spark plug of the first cylinder must be dismantled, and a plastic tube (at least 25 cm long) must be inserted in its place. Now you need to turn the crankshaft disk clockwise, while watching the movement of the tube. The piston of the cylinder on which the tube is installed must be set to the top dead center position.
8. Then you should unscrew the plug screw, which is located in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe drain hole of the motor fluid. In its place, a 4.5 cm long screw should be inserted. In this case, the crankshaft should be turned, and the screw itself should be turned until the crankshaft hits it. Distribution pulleys must be fixed with metal plates.
9. Now put the assistant behind the wheel and turn on the first speed, while the assistant's foot should be on the gas pedal. When this is the case, the crankshaft disc screw should be removed. Having done this, the disc can be dismantled, and then remove the lower timing belt guard. Then the unscrewed screw of the crankshaft must be tightened again and turn the pulley clockwise until it rests on the fixing screw (turn on neutral speed).
10. Timing pulley sprockets and mechanism strap, as well as crankshaft strap and sprocket, must be marked.
11. Unscrew the roller fixing screw and dismantle it. Tags from the old strap should be transferred to the new one.
12. Next, you need to install a new element. Pay special attention to all the marks: they must be aligned not only on the strap, but also on the gears of the pulleys. Depress the roller and pull the strap over the teeth.
13. Now you need to install the lower part of the protective cover in place. Mount the pulley, then tighten the screw. Be careful when doing this, as there is a chance of bending the fixing screw, so do not apply too much force.
14. Next, you will need to turn on the first speed. Having done this, unscrew the fixing screw, and then dismantle the plate, which also served as the fixer. When this is done, you can completely tighten the screw of the crankshaft pulley. Here you will need a torque wrench to correctly calculate the moment. The tightening torque must be 45 Nm, after which the screw must be tightened again by 90 degrees.
15. Make a few turns of the crankshaft and again set the piston to its highest point. On this, in principle, all the main work is completed. Perform all assembly steps in reverse order.

Clutch replacement- a complex and not always feasible procedure at home. The main signs of the need to replace the clutch are the following factors: the clutch slips, the clutch leads, extraneous sounds are heard during gear shifting, jerks during shifting.

Before replacing the clutch, you must have the following:

1. Firstly new FordFusion clutch.
2. Allen keys for: "8", "10", "13", "15", "19" and preferably extensions for them.
3. Jack.
4. Empty container for draining oil.
5. Set of hexagons.
6. A couple of screwdrivers (flat and Phillips).
7. Hammer and chisel.
8. "Magic" liquid WD-40.
9. graphite lubricant.
10. (while you remove the checkpoint, it will almost all flow out).
11. It is desirable to have an assistant.

Ford Fusion clutch replacement - step by step instructions

1. First of all, remove the battery with the key to "10".

3. Now you need to dismantle the battery shelf, this is quite simple to do - just unscrew 3 screws with a key to "13".

4. Disconnect the terminal block, then bend it a little to the side, pull it up and take it out.

5. Remove the battery shelf, at the bottom you need to unscrew the nut of the gearbox cushion with the key to "19".

7. With the key to "10", unscrew the 2 bolts securing the pillow to the body.

8. Continued work will be under the car. Open the gearbox cover, to do this, pry the latches and cable hinges with a screwdriver.

9. The slightly recessed orange latch serves to adjust the lever travel, it is not necessary to touch it at all.

10. When the hinges are disconnected, you need to remove the cables. To do this, turn counterclockwise.

11. Unscrew the black plastic, which is attached with 4 screws under the head on "8".

12. At this stage, it is necessary to drain the oil from the gearbox. Install an empty oil container, then take a hexagon and unscrew the filler plug, as well as the drain plug with a wrench on "19".

13. After the oil has drained, screw the plugs back into place.

14. Pry off the retaining spring with a screwdriver and remove the brake fluid supply pipe to the clutch slave cylinder.

15. Remove the cover covering the terminals with a screwdriver, then with the key to "10", "13" unscrew the starter terminals.

16. Then unscrew the three starter mounting bolts.

17. Jack up and raise the car, then remove the wheels.

18. Treat with WD-40 fluid: ball bolt nut, nut, and stabilizer strut nut.

20. Press the stabilizer against the lever to remove the stand.

21. In order to knock out the ball bolt and the tie rod end pin, use a brass or any other soft metal tip.

22. When the ball bolt is knocked out, turn the thermal screen to gain access to the cut of the steering knuckle. Take a chisel and a heavier hammer and open the steering knuckle.

23. Then separate the lever and the rack. Loosen the nuts. If you are working with the left rack, you can take it away and remove the axle shaft. There is a retaining ring on the left axle shaft, so it is necessary to apply force to remove it.

24. Repeat all the same on the right side, there is a moment - it is necessary to unscrew the intermediate support.

27. As a result of this, your transmission should separate from the engine.

28. At this stage, you will need an assistant, since the box is a rather heavy thing.

29. Now you need to remove the basket, for this you need to unscrew the six bolts with a key to "10".

30. Unscrew the clutch release, there are 3 turnkey bolts on "10".

31. Using the grease that comes with the kit, you need to lubricate the slots of the box.

32. Now you need to screw the clutch to the place of further operation. Make sure that the driven disk is exactly in the center.

Further assembly is carried out in the reverse order. At the end, fill the oil to the level, and pump the clutch cylinder. Well, do not forget to check everything after completion. On this do-it-yourself ford fusion clutch replacement may be considered completed. If you do everything according to the instructions, then you should succeed. Good luck, I hope the article will help you solve your problem.